when can german shepherd puppies leave their mom

You should take your puppy outdoors and let him exercise his socialization potential at a young age. Visiting friends and family is one way to go about it. You can also spot a dog park and carry him there. Remember that your pet is still learning to follow directions and walk with you. You cannot expect him to cover long distances. The best way to avoid this is to take them far enough from the house and ensure they have a positive outside experience. It is worth noting that you should do this as often as you can, preferably daily. Start Potty Training It would be best to start potty training your Lab puppy the first day you bring him home. Start by showing your pup where you want him to potty, such as a sectioned-off area of your yard or garden. A good idea is to cordon off a small area and add some bark chippings. Next, you need a potty training schedule such as first thing in the morning, after mealtimes and play, and hourly for young pups. Many owners use dog crates to help with house training. I have a step-by-step guide on Labrador puppy crate training where you can learn tons more. Discourage Biting If you follow my blog, you know I am against punishment-oriented training. If you train your dog young enough to avoid harsh bites, you will not need punishment-driven discipline strategies. In any case, using physical force or yelling at your pup will only instill fear and distrust and can cause aggression in your dog. You can also check out my article, How to Discipline a Labrador , for greater insight into this topic. Instead, you can wait until your Labrador bites during a positive activity and then discontinue it. It will anchor the consequence better. Follow up using positive reinforcement by rewarding the correct behavior with a treat. Your Labrador will quickly learn that displaying good behavior reaps nice things. Puppies need to learn their bite inhibition soft-mouth by continuing the excellent work their mother and siblings taught them. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Instill Patience You must use your best judgment when training your dog to be patient. Generally speaking, your Labrador will be mature enough to learn self-control by the tenth week. You can use a clicker or a whistle to teach your puppy to assume the natural heel position. Chances are, at first, your Labrador will try to change his pace to be behind you because of the force of habit. Walking in areas familiar to your dog will eliminate this problem. While you previously trained him to assume a heel position, you can also teach him these techniques. You may notice that your puppy can tell your words apart by the thirteenth week. So by the time he is four months old, you can use the position cues and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow. These included whistling, clapping, or saying a specific word to indicate that your Labrador is doing a good job, typically followed by a well-deserved treat. Now is the time to see whether the anchors work! Where you previously whistled when your Lab ran towards you, now you must whistle, so he begins his run. This is the start of his Labrador recall training. Teaching good recall is an ongoing process. My dog was around 12 months old before seeing a noticeable improvement in her recall. Please avoid forcing the dog, as that only introduces confusion. Build Comfort With Crowds — Work on Socialization You have trained your Labrador to acknowledge close friends and family in the past few weeks. While this enables the puppy to be more social when you have visitors, a grown dog must learn to walk outdoors without acting out. This transition must be gradual, and try to keep experiences positive. Whether it is a cuddle, a pat, attention, or something tasty, you must teach your pup target training , for example, to touch a target with a specific part of his body. Remember that your Lab may end up biting or clawing to communicate if you do not teach him more acceptable communication methods. Here, I recommend teaching your Labrador to touch your hand with his nose. Ultimately, this is an excellent replacement for bites! Hand targeting is fun to teach, helps your pup build trust, and gets him using his brain! You have laid a strong foundation of discipline and positive reinforcement, making it easier to train your dog to follow more complex commands. In these weeks, you will introduce him to assuming different positions, obeying your commands as he moves away from you, and reacting to more nuanced anchors. Remember, 4-month-old Labrador puppies have a short attention span, so avoid long training sessions. Teach the Sit and Stay Teaching your Lab to sit and stay is a useful command for him to learn. Train Your Dog to Fetch If you have taken your Labrador to public parks and he has seen other dogs play fetch, it will be easier to teach him to retrieve whatever you throw. Your Labrador may not bring the toy back to you for a second round, but he will soon get the idea of retrieving it. You can gradually turn it into a game of fetch over the next few weeks and reward your doggo with high-value training treats. Continue Potty Training In the fourth month of Labrador training, you will continue potty training with a degree of independence. Continue with a good schedule and sync your walks with his natural cycle to align with the times he needs to go. You can use it to control your Labrador and later to test his ability to execute a command off-leash. A harness is also a good idea and is used for outdoor training and walks. Many owners will opt for a rear-attaching harness. Related: Harness vs. Collar for Lab Puppy: Which is Best? How to Train a 5-Month-Old Lab Puppy A five-month-old Labrador puppy is ready to be tested for his general obedience and the ability to deal with distractions, whether other dogs, people, or other animals such as squirrels or birds. Earlier, I mentioned that you could not expect an eight-week-old puppy to delay gratification. Your puppy can deal with distractions at five months old if you introduce them slowly. You must be prepared for your dog to run ahead of you now! However, suppose you have developed a solid relationship with your pup and worked on his training. In that case, he will stay within a reasonable distance, remaining by your side and showing loyalty. Once your Lab puppy has reached his 6-month milestone, it also marks the point where you introduce him to advanced obedience training. The good news is that all the training you have previously given will make it easier for your dog to follow your lead. Conclude Potty Training Your dog has had months to learn how to communicate his need to go potty. He has also likely refined the patience to hold it instead of relieving himself on the floor. Therefore, you can communicate your disappointment with your body language if your dog makes a mess. Avoid physical punishment and even verbal chastising as it impacts your dog negatively. All dogs can still have the odd accident up to 12 months old. Moreover, you must be prepared for your dog to relieve himself indoors if he is excited or frightened, known as either excitement or submissive urination. Increase Exercise Now that your Lab puppy is six months old, you can increase his exercise to thirty minutes twice daily. Energy levels, especially for larger breed dogs, escalate during this time. While the average exercise for a pup before this is generally five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day, a six-month-old Labrador can be out for one hour if you split his walks into thirty minutes a day. To train your 6-month-old Lab puppy, start with two commands with the most practical use. From six months onwards, until your Labrador is a well-trained adult, you can teach the following commands or tricks in any order. How to Train a 7-Month-Old Labrador As your Lab progresses to seven months old, a lot of the previous training needs to be kept consistent as you gradually teach him to comprehend more commands. Maybe there is a trespasser, and you want your dog to scare them away. You will need to continue training your dog to hold things or release them on command, but you can also proceed to add distance and even more background distractions. Ironically, you need to teach him to bark on command before learning to be silent on cue. Over this month, he will learn to associate the respective commands with barking and silence. This is quite tricky, but your Lab will eventually get there if you practice and stay consistent. The eighth month is ideal for training your Lab to go to different places upon hearing the command word. Either way, do not overload him with place commands, and stick to no more than two per month. Or you can use the ninth month to teach a cool party trick! After a week, you can remove the treat and teach your Lab to follow your finger. Of course, you will still need to reward him after he follows the command. By the third week, you can cue your doggo to spin and see if he does so without your finger guiding him in a circular motion. It might take an extra week or two, but I recommend this as an addition in the ninth month because it allows you to continue training your pet to learn previous commands better. You can teach him to go to different places, hold or release objects, and fetch toys. You can now progress this further and teach him to roll over on command. Your 1-year-old Labrador only learns to comprehend more at the same pace as he has since the 6-month mark. You should also audit previously taught commands and see any weak associations you can reinforce. How to Train an Month-Old Labrador You will not have to alter your training regimen dramatically if you have trained your Labrador properly from eight weeks onward. If anything, this is the period where you customize his training to your convenience. Now is when your dog must learn to be compatible with your life. From the month mark onwards, you must train your dog to be harmonious with modern adult life within reason. It is sad to see dog owners having to give away their pets because of behavior issues. Such things are avoidable if you train your dog correctly and sufficiently exercise him. It would be best if you simply established authority by having a positive yet commanding presence. Once your dog acknowledges your authority and sees you as a guide, you can merely treat him as a six-month-old, albeit on an accelerated schedule, and train him accordingly. Your job becomes even easier once you have a workable training schedule and stick to your routine. This month-by-month Labrador puppy training schedule will help you successfully train your doggo and turn him into the beloved companion you always desired. Good luck with your training! Related Posts You May Like:. Puppy training development after 6 months It is very tempting to get carried away with puppy training. Your young do is so willing to please and such fun to be around. It is important to go at a happy pace for you both. Positive reinforcement training is the right choice for your puppy because there are no negative consequences to getting something wrong. But you can still both suffer from burnout and frustration if you try to reach the later puppy training stages without totally aceing the earlier developments. Your Puppy Training Schedule This may not be exactly the same for each puppy, especially with retrieving which is more Labrador specific. However, it gives you a rough idea. Constantly changing direction. Stopping frequently for cuddles and rewards. This means I blow the recall whistle whenever the puppy runs towards me, no compulsion, and no whistle unless the recall is already underway. Socialisation: Lots almost daily of outings to different places rural and urban carried Visits to family and friends. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow mouthing. Working with food: Learning how to take food gently without snatching or grabbing at the treat pot. I still give the puppy lots of encouragement by running away as soon as I blow the whistle. Socialisation: More socialisation, at least twice a week to busy public places. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow gentle mouthing. Retrieving: Encourage chase and pick up retrieve drive. Hand touch: I teach all new puppies to touch my hand with their noses. This is a great foundation for other skills. Recall: Puppy recall continues, reduce my run to a walk, avoid any distractions. Still frequently blow the recall whenever the pup runs towards me of her own free will. Socialisation: From ground level after vaccination. No other leash walking at all Bite inhibition: No biting, gentle mouthing allowed. Retrieving: Continue to build drive. Positions: I introduce three positions — sit, stand, down. What to expect from your 3 month old puppy Most three month old puppies will be sleeping through the night. And will be having less potty training accidents in the house. There are a few potty training problems that arise at this age, and they are all covered in 15 potty training problems solved. Biting is a big shock and a big problem for many new Lab puppy parents so do check out our complete guide to biting , and join the forum for help and support. Help encourage your puppy to stay in their bed while you are eating. I have a pot of dog treats on our kitchen table, and whenever we sit down to a meal, the puppy gets a treat each time she steps into her basket. Just a treat for stepping in there. What to expect from your 4 month old puppy Your 4 month old puppy will be pretty much potty trained, but accidents still happen if they are left alone too long. Biting is usually starting to subside now, and many four month old puppies will be able to mouth at your hand without hurting you. At this point I start to discourage all mouthing. I teach every puppy to let me touch her face or approach her with my hand, food, a leash etc while holding eye contact and not grabbing at me, or at what is in my hand. This is the age at which people often start to push forward with training. Your 4 month old puppy is capable of quite a lot. There is nothing wrong with teaching your puppy different cues and even some tricks. I recommend you still avoid long duration activities at this point as they are a common stumbling point with puppies young enough to have a short attention span. A ten second sit is ample. Add mild distractions Recall: Fade additional cues. Begin to whistle the pup and stand still. Add mild distractions. Clicker train to polish this in more mouthy puppies. No commands are needed for this. Gradual introduction of distractions. Advanced puppy training begins in earnest This is where I start a programme of sporting training with my Labs. You can begin raising your standards and expectations, asking for longer and more complex behaviors. Teaching your puppy to walk to heel nicely for longer distance and past all kinds of distractions and temptations. Or teaching your puppy to sit and stay for longer periods of time, and even while you go out of sight or while other dogs play nearby. What to expect from your six month old puppy Six months is a common time for people to have a lot of questions and to be struggling with a few challenges. This is now a very bouncy, quite powerful and rapidly maturing young dog. And you may need to patch up a few holes in his training or manners. We have a great article for owners of six month old Lab puppies. Print The dreaded 3-month-old puppy I really enjoy young puppies. Seven- to week-old puppies can be so much fun and while they can be trouble, it is easy to contain them. But when a puppy turns weeks-old…. Three-month-old puppies start feeling good about themselves. They think they have the world all figured out and they will get into everything and run circles around you, even after being scolded or punished. Here is what you need to know about training your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post five of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Bubba at 12 weeks old Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week five home Bubba should have been named Spunky because she is a handful. She runs around our home with her head and tail high, like she is all that. She pulls our shoes out of the organizer, chews on closet doors and digs and splashes in her water dish. So is the life of a 3-month-old Lab puppy. Patience is required to raise young lab pups. They will give you a run for the money. Even the well-behaved ones. No one escapes the terror of the 3-month-old Lab. So, how can you survive this time. Firm and well-defined boundaries that are enforced endlessly. Now is not the time to give up on training your puppy. It is the time to buckle down and show your puppy that there are rules and boundaries, and they must be obeyed. You puppy can and will learn the rules if you are firm and consistent in your corrections. Whatever you do, do not allow the puppy to do whatever it wants with no corrections. That is not being a good puppy mama or dad and it is really not fair to the dog, because training will require much more pressure and correction when the dog is bigger and stronger. Here are the things we worked on this week for training of Bubba. Crate training Bubba is now completely at home in her crate. She remains in her crate a full 4-hours at a time without accidents, is quiet while in there and walks into her crate on a KENNEL command from feet in front of the crate. Bubba will come to me when called, even when she knows that she is going into the crate. While there are still some consistency issues to work on, Bubba is well crate trained at this point. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking is such a difficult job. You will have periods when the puppy is doing so well that you will think you are done. And then, when you least expect it, your puppy will have an accident right in front of you. Bubba has been good at housebreaking. She has had less than a half-dozen accidents in the house and all of them pee accidents. She has never pooped in the house. So, we thought she was pretty much house broke. Then suddenly, she just up and peed right on the dog bed. Housebreaking is always an ongoing process, and we know that over time the accidents will become less and less. Looking for more information on housebreaking? Obedience training your week-old puppy With any dog training, obedience is key! She will SIT on command about 90 percent of the time. The only time we really have issues is when there is a lot of distractions. That is normal for a puppy of her age, but that does not mean that we just allow her to be disobedient when there are distractions. Rather, we look for distractions and then train through them. This is very important because you do not want your dog to just be obedient when everything is calm. You want, even need, your puppy to be obedient when the everyday distractions happen. HERE command As I have already stated, twelve-week-old puppies are cute, but they can also be little terrors. This is the age when they start to get very independent. With that independence comes the desire to run away from you, run around you, play keep-a-way and just generally terrorize your life. We get lots of calls from owners of puppies this age. They all want to know if we can take their dog now for training instead of at the usual months of age that we usually require for hunting dog training. This is very hard, even for professional trainers. But that is almost always a mistake since Bubba will decide to make a game out of not coming to us. Getting your puppy to come to you There are some techniques to help with this matter. Sometimes this is a good time to start treat-training your dog on HERE. This is a short-term fix that we will not continue for long, but it can sometimes help to get us through the next month or two. Labs are almost always driven by food, so it can help you get a better response to the HERE command. You can also have the dog drag a long check cord. The check cord gives you something to grab onto if the dog tries to make a game of coming to you, but you must be careful since the lead can get caught on something and injure your dog. Remember that each time you say HERE, you need to pull your puppy towards you. You need to associate the HERE command with coming towards you. You need your puppy to understand that coming to you is a good thing. That is why treats can help with this. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. Last week we introduced Bubba to water and got her swimming. Since then, she has been swimming a couple more times and she is very comfortable retrieving in the water. We also introduced her to decoys on land. Introduction to live birds This week we introduced Bubba to a live bird. We do this using a pigeon with the flight feathers pulled out. The pigeon can walk around and flap its wings, but it cannot fly. We ultimately would love to see the puppy chase down the bird, grab it in their mouth and bring it to us or at least prance around with it a bit. For some dogs, this can take a bit of encouragement the first time. But generally, once the puppy grabs hold of the bird, we see their whole demeanor change. This was the case for Bubba. Once Bubba picked up the pigeon, she pranced around the yard with her tail high and a spring in her step. She was so excited and proud of herself. This is a great response. Introduction to gun fire As I stated in last weeks post, we do not want to rush the introduction to gunfire. We have never had a dog we have raised and trained become gun shy and that is because we introduce gunfire is a very slow and painfully methodical way. The first step is that the dog or puppy is in a box on our dog trailer. While in this box, our other dogs are getting marks in the field. The gunners for these marks are anywhere from yards away from the dog trailer and they are using primers or starter pistols. The puppy is hearing these shots, but they are a long way away and are muted by being in the dog trailer. Our puppies hear these shots for weeks, or months before they ever hear anything closer. This is our first introduction to gun fire. Bubba was exposed to this last week and will be every week for a while before we move anything closer to her. Learn more about introducing your dog to gunfire. Continuation of assistant marks Bubba will continue to get assistant marks most days from now until she is done her training. The marks will continue to increase in distance and complexity but all our marking scenarios for our afternoon sessions involved gunners out in the field throwing marks for Bubba. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy You are really in the thick of it if your puppy is around the week mark. The next month or two will likely be the most challenging of your time raising a Labrador puppy. That will make obedience training easier and faster, but that is still a bit of a ways out. Hang in there and push through. Keep your commands and corrections firm and consistent and you will make progress with your puppy. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Training your week-old Labrador puppy?

Consider the coat type of your lab. If your dog has a double coat, you must get a brush to reach and brush the undercoat. Look at the size of the grooming brush and the bristle length. Your dog might feel comfortable with a smaller brush, while a larger brush will help control shedding. Discuss your budget and the need before finalizing the brush. You must consider the above factors before making a buying decision. No matter which brush you choose, make sure your lab is comfortable. It is flat, with all the bristles in close proximity. The slicker brush works well for labs as it penetrates their double coats. In addition, it removes any residue without any tangles. Bristle Brush Bristlebrush looks like the brushes that humans use. It is one of the best dog hair brush for labrador with moderate space. While these brushes do not work correctly for high-shedding breeds, they are suitable for quick brushing. Undercoat Rake Rakebrushes are ideal for removing dead hairs but should not be used daily. It has a T shape and pin brush that can help a lab with heavy shedding. It is the best deshedding tool for labs that can be highly beneficial. Not only can you use it for enhancing their blood circulation, but also to make their coat soft and shiny. It captures excess hair with minimal effort. First-time pet parents often think the lovely short hair on their labs will be easy to clean. But they realize the truth after a few months. Labs have a high shedding, and thus it is essential to groom them regularly to avoid mess. A labrador grooming kit is the best step forward. It ensures that their coats are healthy and soft. Moreover, it will also help avoid building up dog hair all over your house. Grooming your lab with a labrador grooming brush every three days is good practice. Labs have thick coats and thus specific brushes will work better for them. You must also ensure you get the right tools along with regular brushing. For example, with the best dog brush for shedding Labrador, the proper grooming gloves improve the process. Labs originate in Canada and are subject to harsh weather conditions. They were initially bred for work and had a strong work ethic and temperament. Labs often worked in cold weather and had to get into the water often. Thus, labs have a water-resistant coat with insulating properties that protect them. Also, their coat has natural oils and dries quickly, so grooming them regularly is essential. What is a Double Coat? Labs have two coat layers: the outer coat and the undercoat. The outer coat has strong hairs that are coarse. It protects the skin from any injury or getting dirt. Moreover, it makes the coat water-resistant. The undercoat is soft and dense and provides insulation by trapping air, keeping them cool during hot weather. However, the density of both coats can vary. Regular brushing makes your lab stay neat and clean. It helps circulate essential natural oils they produce. Labradors are active dogs who love getting into mud or water. Hence they accumulate dirt and insects in their fur. A tiny insect can start a skin infection in your lab, so you must be careful. Introducing the best pet brush for Labrador puppies early can help you later. While brushing your dog, pay close attention to understand what is normal for them. Groom to check for any changes, like lumps, bumps, etc. Brushing your dog has benefits, but the best way of brushing a lab is a mystery to many. Not brushing can lead to vacuuming a lot of hair from the floor daily. A lab has soft, loose hair; brushing them will be simple if you understand the trick. First, get the best brush for labrador retriever that will suit them. It can cause scratches and make labs uncomfortable. Next, complete the grooming sessions with a soft brush to help distribute natural oils. Use a damp towel to wipe the skin and pick up loose hair to end the session. Also, how often your pet gets muddy or wet and if their coat gets a blowout. Brushing twice a week is necessary to maintain the coat and skin of your lab. However, when your Labrador is having a blowout, opt for daily brushing to ensure all loose hair is at bay. It guarantees healthier skin while facilitating hair regrowth. Only make sure that you choose the best dog brush for Labrador. Also, as they are big, only some products will work better. Because of this, getting the best brush for labrador to brush both coats is vital. Furthermore, ensure the grooming tools are not painful for Lab. Labradors have sensitive skin, and thus, using a gentle brush is ideal. Yes, you should brush your labs regularly. You should be brushing them every three days. Getting a rubber brush will be beneficial for short-haired dogs. In contrast, brushes with long bristles are ideal for long-haired or double-coat dogs. Is Furminator The best brush for labs? Yes, Furminator is a safe choice for your pet. It is one of the best Labrador shedding solutions. It removes dead hair that you will otherwise see everywhere in your as well as the dog house. American and English labs are different as they have thicker coats. Moreover, they also have higher de-shedding and thus require frequent brushing. A slicker brush, typically a wire brush with firm bristles, can help in many ways. It is perfect for English and American labs because it removes mats, knots, and tangles from their coat. You can use a slicker brush alone or combine it with a bristle or pin brush. The Hertzko Self Cleaning Slicker Bristle brush and Furminator de-shedding brush are some of the best self-cleaning slicker brush for dogs. As highlighted above, the FURminator deShedding Tool for Dogs is one of the best brushing tools to reduce the shedding of your Labrador retriever. Labs will never stop shedding. You can control only a bit and reduce the shedding through regular grooming and brushing. For a 1-year-old lab, it is better to use a comfortable, smooth brush that will not be uncomfortable. Labs shed naturally, and you can do only so much. While you can try to feed them fish oil every week, it will only be a bet. The best way to control this is by brushing your pet outdoors regularly with the right brush. You can make it a routine along with potty training. The color of your lab has nothing to do with their shedding abilities. The amount of shedding depends on their health and the coat. With extensive research and personal experiences, Aritra has become a Labrador expert, offering a rich resource on the breed. The site serves as a comprehensive resource, offering a wealth of up-to-date information for Labrador owners and enthusiasts alike. The reasons for regularly brushing your Lab are to help keep them looking nice and neat, to help circulate the natural oils they produce and to shake loose and remove dirt and debris, and to keep their coat and skin healthy. Active dogs like Labradors seem to love getting wet and muddy, so you need to make sure no small insects have made a home in their fur during their time outside. While this is more of an issue for longer haired dogs, it only takes a few tiny insects to create skin irritations for your pet, so do keep a close eye. The time spent grooming gives you the perfect opportunity to look for any lumps, bumps or changes in color so you can be confident in calling the vet if you think anything is changing. Routine is another incentive for brushing. Plus…most Labradors will love having your full attention for a few minutes every day! What Types of Dog Brushes are Available? Slicker Brush Made up of rows of wire pins to help remove any tangles. The pins are bent at the ends to help gather and collect loose hair for removal. Suitable for removing the dead undercoat on Labradors. Pins can be soft or hard to suit the needs of your dog. A wide range of sizes are available. Pin Brush The primary aim of these brushes is to remove tangles from long-haired dogs. Although this is a common and popular choice for owners of different breeds, this is not a brush type recommended for Labradors. Bristle Brush Used for shaking loose and removing debris and dirt from the coat. There are no metal pins on this type of brush. The bristles on the brush can be man-made or natural, depending on the brand you buy. These can be a good buy for everyday use, for quick brush downs after countryside adventures and for promoting a shiny coat as the final step when grooming your dog. Undercoat Rake Designed to help remove undercoat during the shedding season and for removing any tangles from the fur. There is a broad range of choices in this style of brush, including various sizes, widths and varied length of the teeth. Shedding Blades These can be used by experienced groomers to remove dead or shedding hair, but be warned; in the wrong hands, these can cause real problems for dogs. Which Brush is Right for Me? Unlike some other brands, this particular brush is self-cleaning! It includes a button to make the bristles retract, meaning you can quickly remove the dead hair from the brush without having to scrape between all the tiny pins with your fingers! Cons: One downside to this product is its size — at 10 x 5. Safari Bristle and Pin Combo Brush Pros: Value for money is a plus for this brush, as it is one of the cheaper types available, and it is a pin brush and a bristle brush in one! Not only is this useful for removing dirt, but the bristles are also perfect for distributing the natural oils over the fur and leaving your dogs coat healthy looking and shiny. Cons: The main complaint about the bristle style of brush is the time it takes to clean the brush itself. Measuring 6. Cleaning this brush is nice and easy due to the shape of it. An essential tool for Labrador owners! The Furminator is a compact product at 1. Cons: Price!! The blades on this type of brush are likely to wear down over time, but replacement blades can be hard to come by, and almost as expensive as buying a new brush itself. If you have a decent budget, having a couple of different products for different occasions will only make things easier for you and your dog in the long run. When brushes are used correctly and often, they will save you hours and hours of cleaning time around your home! This has absolutely no effect on the eventual price that you pay and we are very grateful for your support. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. I really like the way you explained how we should search the theme-based site. I learned about the brush. I liked all the brush Great tips to choose for the dog. I love that. Really thanks for sharing. Keep it up. The Furminator dog brush is the best dog brush for removing loose dead fur beneath the topcoat. For dogs that shed a lot before growing in their fur, it may be too harsh and remove too much fur, leaving behind bald patches. Remember to be cautious when first using the Furminator because it is such an effective tool for removing fur. Try brushing your doggy a little bit at a time and see how his fur responds. The Furminator comes in a long and short fur version, so you can choose the best one for your particular breed of dog. Dog Shedding Brush Is your dog shedding like crazy and you need a good dog brush to remove the fur? The handle is made of rubber to provide good grip. This tool is great for long and short-haired dogs. Slicker Brush for Dogs Slicker brushes are great for removing tangled, matted fur. It does a great job at removing loose hair, knots, tangles, and dander. It also comes in a bright, fun color and has a nicely gripped easy to hold handle. Its stainless steel pins gently remove mats, tangles, and dead hair. The brush comes in a range of sizes, so you can pick the best one for your particular pup. But best of all, the pins retract making it very easy to clean after a grooming session. Dog Brush Glove A dog brush glove is a glove with hundreds of pointy tips to help remove dog fur when you pet your dog with the glove on. It is good at removing loose fur gently and effectively. The shedding fur sticks to the glove, making it easy to remove hair. You can also use this glove while bathing your dog to give a gentle massage without hurting his skin. And it could be the best dog brush for you if what you like is the tactile use of a glove. It comes with two gloves, the left hand and right hand. Ideal for reluctant groomees! This one also comes with two gloves. It has a mm stainless steel blade and an easy to grip handle so you can effortlessly brush your Lab every day to remove loose hair. Rubber dog brush Getting a rubber dog brush is useful for short or smooth haired dogs like Labs. You hold these brushes in the same way as you do with a horse brush. Both of these brushes are good de-shedding tools. Something to note: rubber dog brushes are not very effective at removing matted or tangled fur. So we advise you use another brush, like the slicker brush, for that purpose. Pin Brush for Dogs Pin brush for dogs are the most common type of dog brushes people get. They look similar to brushes used by people. They are typically oval in shape and have wiry pins. Unfortunately they are not very useful in grooming your dog. It helps remove dead hair and stimulates healthy hair oil production. This great little dog brush is also effective to use it while bathing your dog. You brush your dog in circles, then go from head to tail to collect all the loose fur. If your Lab is still a puppy, use a smaller Kong brush to remove his excess fur. What if you could vacuum and brush at the same time? It is safe for grooming pets and great for removing unwanted hair. Bristle Brush for Dogs Bristle brush for dogs are great for use on short, smooth coats that shed frequently. The tightly packed natural bristles pick up loose hair and stimulate the skin. You can use it daily to maintain a shiny coat. Dog bath brush Looking to massage your doggy thoroughly with shampoo when bathing him? With soft rubber tips that scrub away dirt, dead skin, and loose fur making it a useful pet brush for bathing and grooming. It can be used wet or dry. It helps improve lather and helps remove dead hair. Dog Combs and Brushes Need to remove matted, tangled fur from your Lab? Using a dog comb can help remove loose hair and dirt. It should be used with minimal pressure. This rake brush will not scratch your dog because it is rounded on the outside, while sharp on the inside, so it is effective at clearing matted fur and tangles fast and easy. Best dog brush for Labs As we have seen, there are many varieties of dog brushes out there. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own. The Hertzko Self Cleaning Slicker Brush will be able to gently remove loose hair from the undercoat of your Lab without tugging on their fur or scratching the skin. As you gently work through the fur, this slicker brush will remove tangles, dirt, and knots quickly and without causing discomfort. The bristles of this brush feature fine bent wires that have been specifically designed to be able to penetrate deep into the coat, which will allow you to brush through the top coat of your Labrador and reach the undercoat. This will ensure you are able to thoroughly groom your dog without any missed areas. This will leave all of the excess hair on the surface of the brush, which will allow you to quickly and easily dispose of it, ready for its next use. This brush has also been designed to massage the skin while grooming the fur, which will help to both maximize blood circulation and ensure that your dog is comfortable. Pros Massaging — This brush will massage while grooming, which will help to raise comfortability so that your dog is relaxed and calm. Fine bent wires — This brush will be able to brush through the topcoat to the undercoat, which is perfect for Labradors. Cons Bulky head — May be difficult to reach the inside of the legs. Best For Excessive Shedding: Furminator Undercoat Deshedding Tool for Dogs If you own a Labrador that is prone to excessive shedding, or you simply want to be prepared for the times when they do, the Furminator Undercoat Deshedding Tool is a tried and true favorite. Specifically designed for larger dogs that have short hair, the Furminator Undercoat Deshedding Tool for Dogs is a great choice for Labradors, especially as Furminator specifies that this tool is for dogs over 50lbs. Featuring a stainless steel dual design that can be switched depending on whether you want to brush long or short hair, this brushing tool will allow you to brush both the top and bottom coat of your Labrador safely and without causing any discomfort. Upon use, the innovative design of this tool will be able to reach through the topcoat in order to remove loose undercoat hair. This will help to keep your dog comfortable, prevent overheating and reduce the chances of any dirt buildup. The best part about this tool is that it is ideal for dogs who are shedding. This means that, when you use it, not only will it help to detangle the coat, but it will also be able to effectively lift away any loose hairs without cutting the skin or damaging the coat. Pros Ergonomic design — Ergonomic design of the handle ensures comfortable grooming and a reduced chance of any strain. Ideal for dual-coats — Features a function that will allow you to switch from short to long hair, as well as a fur ejector button. Cons May not be suitable for regular grooming — This tool is specifically designed to help remove loose hair. We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. The flexible design of the gloves will allow you to gently brush areas your dog might not let you with a traditional brush, such as the elbows and tummy area. Pros Pair bonding exercise — This glove will help to strengthen your bond with your dog. Hair Remover: Perfect for long, short and curly haired dogs, cats, horses, and other pets, grooming the hair quickly, gently and effectively; The shedding hair sticks to the glove, making it easy to.Bath Brush: Bathe the pets with this glove, which will clean the pet hair easily and give your pets a gentle massage without hurting their skin; Five finger design allows you to groom hard-to-reach.Skin-friendly: Free from any materials which could cause skin damage; Soft silicone ensure gentle massage and grooming without painful removing of fur or scratching the skin; One size fits all, it has.What You Get: 2 blue DELOMO pet gloves 1 left-hand and 1 right-hand; The left-hand glove is customized for left-hander We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. Ensuring that your home grooming sessions are as simple and stress-free as possible, this vacuum brush kit will easily attach itself to the nozzle of your vacuum. The included curry comb brush features soft yet firm bristles that will be able to penetrate through all coat types including dual coats to effectively remove all dirt, debris, dead skin follicles, and loose hair. The soft bristles will also massage the skin as your brush, so your Lab will feel relaxed. In addition to that, the brush features an ergonomic handle that is comfortable to hold for long periods of time and contoured, which will reduce the chances of any strain in the hand muscles or wrist. It also comes with a strap, which will allow you to use it with only one hand. Pros Ergonomic handle — The handle of this brush is comfortable to hold and features a strap for easy grip. Low maintenance — This brush will attach to your hoover and suck up the hair while you brush your Lab! Cons Basic bristles — some users have stated that this brush struggles to sometimes reach the undercoat. Includes two interchangeable brush inserts. Massaging action nurtures.It consists of a dual design that features pin bristles on one side, and softer bristles on the other. Plus, for added convenience, the Sharper Image Dog Brush even comes with an ergonomic handle that will ensure a comfortable grip and confidence while brushing your pup. On top of that, it even comes with a helpful eyelet, which will make storage even easier. Pros Excellent value — This brush is ideal for those who are on a budget. Suitable for Labrador fur — The dual design of this brush will allow you to reach both the top and bottom coat without any issues. Cons No strap — This brush does not come with a wrist strap. Your pet will be cleaner and shinier than ever before! Bristle side to help remove tangles, dirt, and loose hair on your long or short hair dogs and cat Ergonomic handle features grooved grip for extra comfort and control when brushing your pet Great quality and innovating design are present at an affordable value with this Sharper Image dog and cat brush 2 sided brush has the pin brush side for detangling loosen the under coat. The bristle side will remove the loose hair and dirt from the top coat. Dual-Head As your Labrador has a dual-coat, it only makes sense that you should consider investing in a dual-head design brush that will be able to target both. Dual-head grooming brushes can come in a variety of different designs, although the most common type is the grooming brushes that come with soft bristles on one side for the topcoat and pin bristles located on the other side for the undercoat. Not only will this help to prevent the chances of any hand or wrist strain from occurring, but it will also help you to give your Labrador a more thorough groom. Then, once you are confident that your dog is relaxed, you can then begin working the brush at the base of the tail, brushing backward over the areas you have already brushed. If you wanted to, you could then take a soft brush through the coat to help distribute natural oils, and then finish off by running a damp cloth or wipe over the coat to remove any stray hairs or dirt. How often should Labs be brushed? Not just that, but as Labradors have a natural double-coat, it means that they will shed twice a year, usually in the spring and right before the winter. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Gentle and effective on tangles Easy to hold and comfortable grip Stainless steel pins on one side and soft nylon bristles on the other What We Don't Like Nylon bristle side is difficult to clean The Hartz Groomer's Best Combo Dog Brush is effective, versatile, and suitable for a variety of dog coats. One side has stainless steel pins that can help untangle knots and collect loose hair, particularly for dogs with long, curly, or wiry fur. On the flip side, the brush head has soft nylon bristles for fluffing and for short coats. The heads of the pins have rounded tips, so the brush is gentle against the skin, and the nylon bristles are very soft so most dogs don't seem to notice when they are being groomed with that side. We tested the Hartz Groomer's Best Combo Dog Brush on dogs with a variety of coats, including long, fine hair and long, matted hair—the brush performed exceptionally well with both. It worked best on our border collie test subject. One tester even noted that it worked well on her dog's thick butt hair. The Hartz brush was less effective for dogs with short hair and also isn't the right tool if you're looking to tame your dog's undercoat. The heads of the pins have rounded tips, so the brush is particularly gentle. For humans, the brush has a soft rubber handle that makes it comfortable to hold. The pin side is somewhat easier to clean than the bristle side, and we recommend clearing out all the hair you collect after each brushing session to prevent build-up. Rubber bristles break off easily Difficult to remove dog hair from rubber bristles Not good at removing shedding hair 7. This makes it easy to empty the collected dog hair into the trash. The bristles are finely bent wires that pick up loose hairs easily. It has an ergonomic, extended handle that makes grooming your dog more comfortable. The sharp bristles of this brush can be uncomfortable for your dog, especially if you press too hard. Pros One-click button retracts the bristles for self-cleaning Bristles are fine bent wires Ergonomic, extended handle Transparent protective cover for when the brush is not in use Cons Hard bristles are uncomfortable for the dog Tines sometimes do not withdraw completely, making cleaning difficult Not for short-haired dogs Check Latest Price The BV Dog Brush is a two-in-one design. It can be used on all breeds and coat types. It has an anti-slip handle to make grooming easier for you. The brush also has a convenient eyelet to hang it up when not in use. The brush is difficult to clean on both sides. The pins can also break and fall out easily, especially if they get caught in tangled fur. Pros For all breeds and coat types One side is a pin brush, the other side is a bristle brush Anti-slip handle Convenient eyelet for hanging brush Cons Does not have plastic tips Difficult to clean Pins break and fall out easily 9. It has a non-slip ergonomic handle made of silicone for your comfort. The brush gently removes undercoat, tangles, knots, dander, and trapped dirt. The bristles on this brush are sharp, so you have to be careful not to injure yourself or your dog. The plastic is of poor quality and breaks easily. Pros One-touch button retracts bristles for easy cleaning Non-slip ergonomic silicone handle Gently removes undercoat, tangles, knots, dander, and trapped dirt Cons.

Jump on live chat or leave a message. Dog food for German Shepherds With a high drive, large and fast-growing bones and a higher-chance of hip and joint issues than other breeds, the ideal German Shepherd dog food is high in quality meat protein, well balanced and low in inflammation markers. We designed Scratch for great German Shepherds like Vinnie here. What should you pay attention to when picking food for your German shepherd? Is it full of chicken, beef or poultry? This effects joints and overall mobility, as well as skin and coat. Controlling inflammation is vital in older dogs. German Shepherd nutritional needs Like most breeds, German Shepherds have genetic traits not guarantees, but higher likelihood and lifestyle-related health issues to consider, and hopefully avoid. Good breading and genetic testing can reduce a lot of risk, with diet and lifestyle also helping to avoid or reduce the effect. High-protein from quality meat sources. All Scratch meat protein comes from specific source, human-grade meat Ingredients with low inflammation markers to look after those joints. German Shepherd puppy food With fast growing bones and growth hormones in overdrive, German Shepherd puppies require a different diet than smaller puppies. Their food needs to contain: A calcium:phosphorous ratio in a range suitable for large breeds. DHA for brain development Enough salt and electrolytes Tons of protein at least .But not all protein is created equal. Dogs do better with plenty of high-quality animal protein. How much should a German Shepherd eat a day? Different foods give off different amounts of energy. Scratch for instance has more energy in a piece of kibble than most other dry dog foods, so dogs would eat less Scratch than other foods and a bag would last longer. Look for the amount of Kcal per grams. The higher the number, the more energy the food contains. The lower, the less it contains and the more they would need to eat. To find out how much Scratch your German Shepherd should eat a day, take our personalised quiz. If you have a puppy, their feeding guide will update as they grow. Comparing German Shepherd dog food Dog Food. Why do German Shepherd puppies need the best dog food? German Shepherd puppies need dog food designed for large breed puppies to ensure controlled joint and bone growth. This is because large-breed puppies are prone to certain health risks like hip dysplasia and other Orthopedic conditions. The best dog food for German Shepherds will ensure your puppy grows healthy, strong, energetic, and with lovely skin and coats. Nutritional requirements for German Shepherds puppies German Shepherd puppies require a balanced diet that contains four types of nutrients below. These ingredients will ensure that your pup grows and develops optimally for a longer quality of life. Proteins Proteins help the puppies in building up their body tissues. Proteins can be found in chicken, salmon, beef, lamb, eggs, and dairy. Fats Fats are important for healthy skin, fur, brain, and vision. The recommended fat level per dry matter basis is 8. Fats can be found in fish oil, chicken fat, and beef fat. Digestible carbohydrates Because puppies are incredibly energetic, they need digestible carbs to provide them with energy. Digestible carbohydrates can be found in rice, sweet potatoes, potatoes, and whole oats. Micronutrients In addition to these key nutrients, German Shepherd puppies also need micronutrients like calcium, phosphorus, DHA, and omega-3, and vitamin A. They also need fiber to promote digestion and bowel movement and clean water to help with bodily functions. For large dog breed only: Foods specially formulated for German Shepherd puppies: Veterinarian and pet advisor Dr. Choose a dog food that is specially formulated for German Shepherds puppies or large breed puppies can ensure your pups are getting the nutritional requirements at every stage of their growth. The opposite side is giving your pup the wrong food that may lead to serious growth and digestive problems. Things to consider before choosing dog food for German Shepherds puppies 1. Their growth Puppies may need different nutrients at different stages depending on their growth rate. For instance, a puppy in the weaning stage between three to four weeks will need more antioxidants which are found in foods containing Vitamin C and E. In contrast, a teething puppy will need wet dog food which is easily digestible food on its tummy to minimize intestinal upset. For instance, a younger puppy may have difficulty eating larger food pieces than an older puppy. Teething If your dog is teething, which starts at around three weeks, you may want to consider food that contains calcium like dairy and bone broth for strong and healthy teeth. On the other hand, if the dog has teething problems, wet food may be a better option than dry food until they recover. Alternatively, you add wet canned food to their kibble to make it soft and palatable. The body weight An underweight puppy has different dietary requirements from an overweight puppy. You do not want to underfeed or overfeed your puppy. Activity Level Puppies that are extremely active require foods high in carbohydrates to keep up their energy levels. If your dog is not as active, you want to keep the carbs down to avoid obesity. With all the many dry foods out on the market, it can be hard to choose the healthiest for your pups. Step 1. The Association of American Feed Control Officials developed nutrient profiles to establish minimum and some maximum nutrient concentrations for dogs and cats. These profiles are updated when new findings from research in pet nutrition become available. They provide practical guidance for pet food manufacturers. Adult Maintenance: Dog foods formulated for adult maintenance have the nutrients adult dogs need. Dogs over the age of one are considered adults, except for some large and giant breeds who do not fully mature until age two. You may see variations of these nutrient profiles on dog food packaging. Step 2. Read the food label The label is the most important thing you should check when deciding which puppy food to pick. Here are the 3 things you would like to read on the packaging: a. List of ingredients The list of ingredients should have the main ingredient as the first ingredient then followed by the rest according to their percentage. For instance, in the label below the first five ingredients, are chicken as the main ingredient, ground whole grain corn, chicken by-product meal, ground whole grain sorghum, corn gluten meal and dried plain beet pulp. Feeding guidelines This will show you how much food and how many times you should feed your puppy. Watch this video if you want to better understand the wording on a dog food packaging means: Step 3. Are there any claims of pups reacting to the food? Do the users recommend or warn against the food? Of course, you want to go with what the majority of the reviewers say. You can also check dogadvisor. Step 4. The vet is in a better place to advise on what type of food to go for or what ingredients to avoid. Best dry foods for German Shepherds Puppies There are hundreds of dog foods out there with fancy names and ingredients, which make it so hard for dog owners to find the right food for their pups. To help you narrow down your search, we asked a couple of vets to suggest the best dog food for German Shepherds puppies. Purina Pro Plan — For sensitive skin and allergies Why do we like it? This dog food is ideal for all large breed puppies weighing over 50 pounds, GSD included. It is specially formulated for puppies with sensitive skin and stomachs. It is made with real chicken, among other high-quality ingredients. This dry food has optimal calcium levels to promote proper joint and bone growth. It helps prevent forms of hip dysplasia. Ideal for German Shepherd puppies of all ages. Delicious dry food for large breed puppies like GSD. It is specially formulated for superior vision and healthy brain development. This is an all-natural dog food specially made for large-breed puppies of all ages. It is made with real, wholesome ingredients. Making the right food choice will ensure that your puppy grows healthier, stronger, and more energetic. Weaning for a GSD puppy should start at around 6 to 8 weeks while still maintaining nursing. Complete weaning should be from 8 weeks when the puppy is fed on puppy food only. How is puppy food different from adult dog food? Puppy food contains more protein and fats, and certain minerals than adult dog food to support their growing brain, vision, nervous system, immune system, bones, and joints. When should German Shepherd puppies transition to adult dog food? German Shepherd puppies should transition to adult dog food from 12 to 24 months. The transition should be gradual, and the puppy should be constantly monitored. More posts on feeding your German Shepherds Must read:. Wet food.As well as it being tasty, there are certain things to look out for when hunting for the best wet food for your puppy. For example, large and giant breeds are particularly prone to orthopaedic problems if they do not eat an appropriate diet while they are growing. That's why you can find food designed specifically for larger breeds. This is easy with wet food but is not as noticeable on treats. The more they eat, the more it will cost you. You should also be aware that your pup will need more food as they grow, and they grow incredibly quickly. You should also always consult your breeder. ShepherdSense has put together a handy guide on what your pup should eat at every stage of their growing development. All dogs can be prone to allergies, but some breeds are more susceptible to developing allergies and the German Shepherd is one of these. Many things may trigger an allergic reaction in German Shepherds, including food products like animal proteins, wheat, eggs, soy or milk and environmental pathogens that are present in their everyday environments such as pollen, dust, perfumes or moulds. Some German Shepherds can also be allergic to flea saliva, leading to a condition known as flea-allergic dermatitis. When this condition occurs the dog will develop irritated skin after just one flea bite, leading to incessant itching, red spots on the skin and inflammation. German Shepherds are known for having thick fur, so brushing and checking their skin daily or weekly is vital to keep on top of any changes. If you think your German Shepherd does have an allergy, seek the help of your vet as soon as possible. She has been working in the Journalism industry for over a decade and has written for an array of brands including John Lewis, Daily Mirror and Grazia. When she's not writing, researching or testing products, she's rennovating her Victorian terrace and chilling in the garden with her sausage dog Waffle. Just so you know, whilst we may receive a commission or other compensation from the links on this website, we never allow this to influence product selections - read why you should trust us.

In , B2TR rescued bulldogs in need. We had adoptions, 64 were foster fails and 57 were previous adopters! We adopt to all U. We are based in NC. Please visit www. We are headquartered in North Carolina, in a pet supply store that is owned with the Rescue. We also have satellite offices in South Carolina, Alabama and we cover Virginia and Maryland as well. We are a c 3 corporation. We are in need of volunteers, donations, supplies and support. We rely solely on donations for the care and treatment of the rescued Bulldogs that are admitted to our organization. We provide our fosters food, treats, supplements, medical care, training and harnesses and leashes. Here is how you can participate: 1. Go to www. Create an account 3. You will receive an approval email from 32 Auctions with a link to acknowledge your account 4. It will take you back to the site 5. You can view some of the great items that will be in auction by selecting view items. During the Auction: When the auction is live you can bid on items through the online auction website. So… it will be harder for ninjas to outbid you without you knowing. You will receive an email with the items you won. You will then pay online via credit card or PayPal for the items you won. Your items will be mailed out to you in the next two weeks. FAQ: Q: Is there a shipping fee? A: Yes, there will be a shipping fee. A: Yes, you will need to create an account with 32auctions to be able to bid. We are excited for the support and partnership. They are situated in the Appalachians of South Western PA and are run by a highly experienced and motivated team of volunteers. Contact: admin keystonebulldogrescue. All dogs that come to ECBR are fully vetted, fixed, and cared for to ensure they are healthy before their adoption day. Contact: sara. Volunteers provide foster care, veterinary care, and rehabilitation for these dogs before they are made available for adoption. Contact: HSrescue aol. They are based in eastern Pennsylvania and work with adopters and shelters in the mid-Atlantic region. American Bulldog Rescue is not a shelter, but an all-volunteer group where the dogs receive loving care in a network of dedicated foster homes until the time when their forever family is found. Contact: Jodi AmericanBulldogRescue. They are the main, most reputable ones. They may or may not have this breed available for adoption at the time of your search. So do bear that in mind. Generally, these rescues should be the basis of your search. And while I spent a lot of time researching to find these rescues, if you were to find others that are not listed that you believe should be, do contact me. Or looking for other breed rescues in PA? Check out my followings guides below:. Please Remember: You still need to fill out an application even if you don't see a dog listed right now that would be a good match for your family. Sending in an application doesn't obligate you to adopt a dog through HeavenSent, but we sure would like it if you did! Learn about life with amazing disabled pets! Fiona with her brothers, Clifford and Thurman. Lucy in her forever home. Patches loving all the attention she gets! Pixie in her new home!! Adoptable Dogs These dogs need loving homes. It seems as if we can find ourselves with a new adoptable dog in the blink of an eye. We find that the most convenient and practical way of listing information and updates on adoptable dogs is by using our FaceBook page. Please click the FaceBook icon to go to our page. Petfinder is also another great resource for helping us find adoptive families and vice versa. Because we don't have an actual facility, the foster-moms and foster-dads are really the ones that get to know these dogs best and can keep the their listings up to date with any developments. Please note, not all of our dogs make it onto Petfinder. You might find that some of our adoptable Bulldogs are becomming movie stars these days, with links to their own videos! In the event that we decide not to list a dog on Petfinder, want to list more information about a particular dog, or we are helping another shelter or rescue group place a Bulldog, you will find information on him or her right here. So, don't forget to bookmark this page as well.

If all goes as planned, there will be three planned breedings for the spring and summer months. He had an amazing temperament, was extremely athletic and black sable in color. Sarge was a proven stud known for producing his likeness and passing on his hereditary characteristics to his offspring four of which remain at Weizen German Shepherd. He has a great temperament, weighs 95 pounds and is solid black in color with massive bone structure. He is a proven stud and produces puppies with dark pigmentation and great temperaments. He has been obedience trained and had bite work training at Weizen German Shepherds. He has an excellent pedigree, great temperament and is very dark sable in color. She is black sable in color and weighs approximately 74 pounds. She is high drive, easily trainable and very protective. She is black sable in color and weighs 88 pounds. Ketura is intelligent, has a great temperament and is obedience trained. She is DM free by parentage. Dark is black sable in color, weighs 95 pounds and has an outstanding pedigree. Dark has a wonderful temperament and was obedience trained at Weizen German Shepherds. She was born and raised at Weizen German Shepherds. She is black sable in color, weighs pounds and is a natural protection dog. She is very intelligent, obedience trained and has an excellent pedigree. She is intelligent, very bold, high drive and black sable in color. She is a Sarge and Seattle daughter. She is high drive, powerful and very black sable in color. She is a fireball of energy and smart. She is eight months old and dark sable in color. Wulfe is the son of Ketura and Zor. He is two months old and will be use as a future stud pending OFA scores. He is black sable and has a wonderful temperament. All puppies are imprinted from birth using the U. Military Bio Sensor techniques and exposed to different situations on a daily basis until they go to their new homes. Lynne Wheat is a Bred with H. Please Note: Weizen German Shepherds reserves the right to have first choice puppy from any of their litters. Welcome to the Mississippi state page on TrustedPuppies. Renowned for its rich history, warm hospitality, and diverse natural beauty, Mississippi is an ideal place to find and raise your new German Shepherd companion. Our goal is to connect you with the most exceptional German Shepherd breeders and puppies for sale in the region, ensuring you find the perfect furry friend for your family. Our site features a wide variety of reputable MS breeders who specialize in raising amazing healthy puppies. Our Mississippi dog breeders are committed to raising the highest quality puppies. They provide their puppies with all the necessary vaccinations and veterinary checkups to ensure they are in the best of health before they go to their forever homes. They also provide ongoing support and advice to ensure a smooth transition for both you and your new puppy. Discover the dynamic dog-friendly scene in Mississippi, featuring inviting restaurants, spacious dog parks, and engaging dog shows. For those passionate about dog shows, events like the Mississippi Gulf Coast Kennel Club Show provide an opportunity to appreciate the elegance and charm of German Shepherd canines while connecting with fellow enthusiasts. Mississippi, with an estimated dog population of around thousand, holds the 39th position among U. At TrustedPuppies. Most of our reputable German Shepherd breeders provide safe and affordable flight delivery, complete with a dedicated flight nanny who accompanies your new pup throughout their journey, ensuring their safety and comfort as they travel to their new home in Mississippi. Many breeders also offer affordable vehicle delivery, utilizing specialized pet delivery services. This option allows your German Shepherd puppy to be transported directly to your door by a professional who understands the unique requirements of pet transportation. Begin your search for the perfect German Shepherd puppy on TrustedPuppies.

Click Play to Learn More About the Lovable Goldendoodle History of the Goldendoodle Goldendoodles were first bred in to be guide dogs, but the breed gained popularity among breeders during the s. The idea for the crossbreed was inspired by the successful breeding of the labradoodle, which is a poodle and Labrador retriever hybrid. As one of the most popular domestic dog breeds in the United States, the golden retriever was an obvious choice for crossbreeding with the delightfully hypoallergenic poodle. The first three dogs to earn the American Kennel Club Obedience Champion title after its introduction in were golden retrievers, which proves their loyalty and ease of trainability poodles were originally bred as retrievers and water dogs, and both the breeds score in the top 5 of the smartest dog breeds. These genes pass on to the goldendoodle, so owners can be assured of an athletic, intelligent and obedient companion. Goldendoodle Care Though low-maintenance, goldendoodles require adequate exercise, grooming, and training. This social breed thrives with its family and friends inside. The fur of a goldendoodle varies, but most of the time, their fur is in between the two extremes when it comes to grooming. They respond best to positive, reward-based training and will gladly show off their tricks for a tasty treat. Exercise With average to above average energy levels, goldendoodles require daily exercise and love to go for walks, runs, hikes, and swims. Their playful nature and retriever genes make them great fetch partners, too. Owners should aim for at least 30 minutes of exercise each day including walking, running, swimming, and tackling agility courses. To keep their skin and coat healthy, they need a moisturizing bath every few months. Depending on the dog, a goldendoodles may grow long hair over its eyes or between its toes and appropriate trimming is required. Training Goldendoodles are obedient, athletic, and smart so they take well to training and are eager to please. Agility comes to them naturally and courses are a great place for goldendoodles to burn energy and create a strong bond between owner and companion. They may inherit the health problems associated with poodles and golden retrievers, but it is possible that the hybrid minimizes health problems due to their genetic diversity. Goldendoodles often do exhibit this enhanced health, but only when its parents are purebred golden retrievers and poodles who have been bred responsibly and have no hereditary health issues. Hip dysplasia : Poodles and golden retrievers are both prone to hip dysplasia, so a hip exam is highly recommended to keep a potential issue in check. Eye disorders : Eye issues are also a common problem among poodles and golden retrievers. Setting up an annual eye exam with your veterinarian is a great idea for all goldendoodle owners. A dry kibble high in protein and fats does the trick. Dry kibble is helpful in removing plaque and promoting general dental hygiene. Corn, wheat, soy, and dairy are common canine food allergies. Goldendoodles are susceptible to food allergies, so it is a good idea to minimize these ingredients in their diet. Go for a grain-free diet with whole vegetables. Where to Adopt or Buy a Goldendoodle Check with your local animal shelter or rescue group to see if there's a goldendoodle available for your home. Big Fluffy Dog Rescue also includes goldendoodles in the type of dogs that it rescues. The Goldendoodle Association of North America provides a list of breeders on its website. Goldendoodle Overview Smart and fairly easy to train Good for those with pet allergies Friendly dogs that are good with kids and other pets Cons Needs at least 30 minutes to an hour of daily exercise Doesn't do well being left alone for long periods of time Susceptible to food allergies, requiring higher-quality, allergen-free food What Is a Designer Dog Breed? Like goldendoodles? You might also enjoy these breeds:. Appearing in the mids, the mini goldendoodle is the result of breeding a miniature poodle and a golden retriever. Designed to take on the smarts of the poodle and the gentle disposition of the golden retriever, these dogs are intelligent and active, with a mild temperament. Poodles originated in Germany and were historically used for hunting and retrieval. They gained popularity among the French, where they were refined into three additional sizes — standard, miniature and toy. While these dogs became associated with high society, they were also known as affectionate and easy to train. As working dogs and loyal companions, golden retrievers have since become one of the most popular purebred dogs in America. Fast forward to present day, and the mini goldendoodle — having inherited traits from both breeds — is a gentle, loving canine that is intelligent and easy to train. Due to the inheritance of the long-haired golden retriever and the curly poodle, these dogs are a ball of fluff as puppies. Not only are they adorable, but they also have a teddy-bear appearance that makes them irresistible to would-be pet parents. Mini goldendoodles can vary in size depending on which breed characteristics they take on. However, mini goldendoodles are generally well proportioned with large, expressive eyes, a rounded head, and a short to medium-sized muzzle. They also have floppy ears and a long, fluffy, or feathered tail like the golden retriever. What Size Is a Mini Goldendoodle? As a hybrid dog, mini goldendoodles range in size and weight. Generally, though, MGs can weigh anywhere from 15 to 35 pounds and reach a height of between 13 to 30 inches. The size of a mini goldendoodle can also depend on the height and weight of its parents. The coat of a mini goldendoodle changes as it ages. As a puppy, the coat is fluffy, maturing into wavy, flat, or curly fur. However, if your goldendoodle takes on more characteristics of the golden retriever, its fur can also be straight, too. They also come in colors ranging from golden to red to dark brown. Mini goldendoodles are known for their gentle and mild-tempered natures. These dogs are eager to please and are loyal, sociable, and incredibly playful. Both poodles and golden retrievers are also known for their smarts, so MGs take on this trait, making them easy to train. Are Mini Goldendoodles Affectionate? Mini goldendoodles are affectionate animals. These dogs love a good cuddle, as well as spending plenty of time with their family. Like most dogs, MGs also show affectionate states through facial or body language and through their wagging tails. However, due to their excitability, these dogs may not stay long on your lap! Mini goldendoodles are a fantastic family pet. Not only are they great around kids, but they are also loving and affectionate towards their family. Mini goldendoodles also love to play, which is great for rambunctious children! However, like most dogs, early socialization and obedience training are important for ensuring they behave appropriately around kids. Are Mini Goldendoodles Aggressive? These dogs also get along well with kids and other animals. While some people mistakenly think mini goldendoodles are aggressive when they nip or chew during their teething stage, this is actually part of their normal development. If this occurs, positive reinforcement and reward-based training can remedy these behaviors. Do Mini Goldendoodles Bark a Lot? They may bark at the occasional stranger or if they want your attention, but generally, these dogs are not known for their vocality. Are Mini Goldendoodles Intelligent? Mini goldendoodles are bred from two very intelligent breeds — poodles and golden retrievers. Therefore, this hybrid breed takes on the smarts of both genetic counterparts. The intelligence of mini goldendoodles make them fun to be around; however, beware that they can get into mischief due to their smarts! Keeping their minds stimulated with treat puzzles can be good ways to curb this behavior. Are Mini Goldendoodles Easy to Train? Because mini goldendoodles are intelligent and eager to please, they are also easy to train. The only thing to be mindful of is that their playful energy can create short attention spans; therefore, keep training sessions short rather than long and drawn out. Like most dogs, a combination of positive reinforcement and reward-based training will go a long way. Are Mini Goldendoodles Energetic? Mini goldendoodles have plenty of energy! Regular walks each day mixed with playtime should be enough to drain their energy. One way to think about this breed is that they enjoy short bursts of energy rather than long marathon sessions. Due to their smaller size, mini goldendoodles make great apartment dogs. These dogs also shed very little and are fairly quiet when it comes to barking. Combined with their even temperaments, these dogs are good apartment dwellers. Are Mini Goldendoodles Good Watchdogs? These dogs are more likely to befriend an intruder than to attack one! Mini goldendoodles make fantastic therapy dogs because they are soft, affectionate, and intelligent. However, they are only suited to work as therapy or emotional service animals because they are on the smaller side. Individuals looking for service dogs or therapy dogs who require stronger, sturdier animals for physical support or guidance, for instance, may want a bigger breed like a large standard goldendoodle. How to Care for a Mini Goldendoodle? Mini goldendoodles are fairly easy to care for. When it comes to exercise, make sure they get at least 20 to 30 minutes each day. Therefore, long hours alone or stuck in a kennel are not good for this breed as they can develop separation anxiety. The best way to care for a mini goldendoodle is to keep them active and include them in family activities. While mini goldendoodles only shed lightly and sometimes not at all , there is some grooming required to keep their coat healthy. As an adult, mini goldendoodles should be brushed about once a week, but this also depends on how often you get their hair trimmed. In terms of bathing, these dogs only need the occasional bath. You should also trim their nails once or twice per month unless your dog is active and wearing them down naturally. Lastly, because mini goldendoodles have floppy ears, check these regularly for redness, discharge, or odors, which could be a sign of infection. Do Mini Goldendoodles Shed? Poodle breeds hardly shed, but golden retrievers do, so the shed level of your mini goldendoodle will depend on which genetic traits they take on. Generally, though, your MG will be a low to non-shedder. What Should a Mini Goldendoodle Eat? Like all dogs, mini goldendoodles require a high-nutrient diet that has a good balance of protein, fats, and carbohydrates. This could include a mix of high-quality kibble, dehydrated dog food, or fresh food. Aim for around 2 cups of food per day; this may need adjusting depending on the size and activity level of your dog. Mini goldendoodles are prone to a number of genetic diseases outlined below which come from the poodle and the golden retriever side. However, not all MGs will develop these conditions, and some are treatable with medication, supplements, and diet. Frequent visits to your vet and giving your dog joint supplements like glucosamine and omega-3 oils can prevent future pain. Patella luxation: abnormal formations of the joints, also resulting in pain when walking. Progressive retinal atrophy: golden retrievers are prone to PRA, which involves a gradual deterioration of the retina in the eye, which can cause night blindness and loss of daytime vision. Since this is an inheritable condition, the best prevention is to visit your vet regularly. See your vet for more info. Mini goldendoodles live for around 10 to 15 years. Are Mini Goldendoodles Expensive? What you want to avoid is potential scams or unethical breeders that promise one thing and deliver another. Looking online is one option, especially if they provide reviews or customer feedback. You could also ask for a referral or check with your local vet, as they may have the details of a recommended breeder. When visiting a breeder, a quality one will tend to offer things like: Transparent documentation e. Aside from going through a breeder, you can also adopt a mini goldendoodle from a local shelter or rescue. Failing that, check online and see if there are mini goldendoodles that are up for adoption. Are Mini Goldendoodles Purebred? Mini goldendoodles are not purebred. As a cross between a golden retriever and a miniature poodle, they are considered hybrid dogs. Due to their easy going nature and trainability, mini goldendoodles are great pets for first-time owners. These dogs are playful and eager to please, making it easy for inexperienced pet parents to train and live with them. Just make sure you learn the basics of obedience training, socialization, and positive reinforcement techniques. So, how do you know if a mini goldendoodle is right for you? Before you decide, evaluate whether your disposition and lifestyle can accommodate this breed. But mini goldendoodles are a wonderful breed to live with, especially for families. These playful and affectionate dogs are a lot of fun and can bring an abundance of joy to your household. With the right exercise and loving care, a mini goldendoodle will be your loving companion for life. If there is a behavior your puppy exhibits that you may think is cute while your puppy is small, you need to think ahead and determine if this behavior will be acceptable from an adult dog. Consistency is the most important tool for training a puppy in their first year and beyond. Each family member needs to use the same techniques and commands so as not to confuse your puppy. It is important to remember that a puppy associates a reward or a disciplinary action with its behavior in the past 3 seconds. Waiting longer than 3 seconds to reward or discipline is very confusing to a puppy. You cannot stop this behavior, but you can certainly direct your puppy to chew upon acceptable items until this phase passes at about a year of age. The only way puppies know how to play is the typical wrestling, biting, chasing, tackling, pulling, and nipping they do with littermates. In the absence of littermates, you and your family suddenly become the littermates. Repeat this same disciplinary action a total of three times in a row. Every now and then, a particularly feisty puppy will become more excited by this disciplinary action and need a more distinct disciplinary measure. This next action needs to be initiated quickly. This will be uncomfortable for your puppy. When behavior meets with uncomfortable consequences, the behavior will stop. With all this being said, the absolute best remedy is for you to arrange daily play dates with other puppies or young dogs. The bottom line is that your puppy needs to have active playtime each day. Jumping — Your puppy will jump on you to get your attention. This may seem innocent while your puppy is small, but Grandma may not appreciate being knocked over by the full grown untrained dog. Make sure you do not reward the puppy for the act of getting down as this will enforce the behavior of jumping up only to be told to get down for a reward. This is not a sign of aggression unless you allow this to go undisciplined over time. You need to actively discourage any and all growling directed at you. If your puppy growls at you when you get close to the food bowl, immediately remove the food bowl and feed the puppy out of your hand. Do not stop brushing until the puppy accepts this without growling. Each puppy needs to learn its place in the pecking order of a family. Obviously, they need to be the lowest on the totem pole. If allowed to be boss, growling is a normal thing for a puppy to exhibit when showing its dominance. Each family member must establish they are boss. This includes young children who are timid or fearful of the puppy. Remember that any behavior you allow as a puppy is then extremely difficult to curb later in life. If you do not wish to have your adult dog on the furniture, do not sit on the sofa holding your puppy. If you do not want your grown dog to grab your pant leg, etc. Leash Training — Training your Goldendoodle puppy to walk on a leash without pulling will take some time. Be patient and read our complete guide to leash training here. Buying a Trained Puppy — You can opt to have your puppy purchased at Fox Creek Farm trained by a professional trainer. Buying a trained puppy can save you a lot of time and benefit the entire family. Please visit our board and train services page for more information. Pet Insurance — We always recommend that any dog owner have a good quality pet insurance. Choosing the best pet insurance will take you a bit of time to learn about the coverages and fees associate with the brand and your particular dog. Spend some time with our blog articles on pet insurance linked above to determine what is right for you and your furry friend. It is wise not to acquire your puppy until she is at least weeks old and has already had at least one inoculation shot protecting him. Vaccinations — Your puppy needs a series of shots while she is still very young. Talk to your Vet for a more thorough list as well as any special issues for the area in which you live. She will need a series of at least two to three more of these inoculations given 3 weeks apart. DO NOT have a rabies shot given at the same time as the other inoculations. It is best to wait at least two months after the combined shots before giving the rabies serum. We recommend that you not place your puppy on the ground in public areas until they have received their full series of puppy shots. Teeth—of dogs are often overlooked and should be cleaned regularly. Once you get the hang of it only takes a couple of minutes. Teeth of mature dogs should be kept free of tarter, which destroys gums and teeth prematurely and can cause other heath related problems. Ears —should be kept clean and free of excess hair on which ear wax can gather. You can use a liquid or powder cleaner and antiseptic in each ear from time to time. Since you will be taking your Goldendoodle to a groomer every couple of months they will be sure the ears are clean and alert you of any issues that may arise. Toenails—need to be trimmed every weeks. Your groomer or Vet can take care of this process for you. We do not remove dew claws these are kind of like a thumb and are located inside and an inch or two above the front paws. These nails will need trimmed occasionally as well. Hair on the bottom of the foot pads should also be trimmed off to insure good footing. Tear Staining — All dogs tear, but on a few it will stain muzzle below the eye to a dark brown. Often the tearing is due to hair touching the eye causing it to continually tear keeping the area below the eye wet. To prevent these stains, keep the hair below the eyes trimmed short and regularly dry with a tissue until the issue is resolved. Hair hanging over the eyes may cause irritation and excessive tearing. Keeping this hair trimmed up and away from the eyes will help to keep tearing minimal. If the eyes are crusty looking or have a yellowish green discharge, take her to the veterinarian as this is a sign of infection. Feed a premium, high quality food without additives, food color, corn or wheat will aid in maintaining white stain-free faces. Corn and wheat are the two most common ingredients that can cause food allergies in dogs. Most of the time it quickly clears up and returns to normal. If it persists a bit longer then try a good dog probiotic like Pro-Pectalin. The easiest way to do this is by using a plastic spoon and a small Zip Loc bag. Scoop up a bit and drop the spoon and all in the bag. Black, white, silver, brown, blue, red, parti, sable, cream, tan, apricot, and merle Suitable for: First-time pet owners, family with kids, active owners Temperament: Loving and loyal, hypoallergenic, easy to train, gentle, outgoing, playful Mini Goldendoodles are an ultimate combination of good-looking, faithful dogs with outgoing temperaments and social intelligence. They are naturally committed to loving and pleasing and are low-shedding dogs, making them exceptional family canines. Besides being suitable for households with mild to moderate allergy issues, Mini Goldendoodles make great service dogs and can help anyone with visual impairment. In either case, a Miniature Goldendoodle will not let you down. This breed is an excellent addition for any family, although you have to think about a few things before bringing one home. Dogs that are harder to train will require a bit more patience and practice. Proper exercise, nutrition, and hygiene also play an important role in the lifespan of your pet. More social dogs have a tendency to run up to strangers for pets and scratches, while less social dogs shy away and are more cautious, even potentially aggressive. The good thing about Goldendoodles is that they are healthier due to their hybrid vigor, with a commendable lifespan of about years. You can also very much house train them as they are intelligent enough to understand basic commands. Mini Goldendoodles might be a smaller dog breed, but they are energetic and active. This means that exercise will be an essential part of their grooming and care to help use some of their excess energy levels. They also love social interaction, so you should organize playdates with fellow canines or give them enough attention. They get their mischief and playfulness from their Poodle bloodline and intelligence and outgoing demeanor from both parents. They are also incredibly social and inherit a happy-go-lucky attitude from Golden Retrievers, making them unsuitable for introverts. And, these dogs can be vocal! While you can train a dog to stop or reduce impulsive barking, it is impossible to stop a naturally verbal dog from barking. However, these fluffy mini teddy bears can and will be loud. Are These Dogs Good for Families? This dog loves to socialize and endears itself to everyone it meets, especially if it takes after its Golden Retriever heritage. While this is sweet, it makes them needy and prone to separation anxiety if you leave them alone for long. These dogs are also naturally inclined to be gentle with infants and toddlers and will always exercise patience with the children as they grow up. Instead of wanting to chase as other dogs do, Mini Goldendoodles are laid-back and almost bashful. As a result, they are perfect dogs to find playmates for. However, your Mini Goldendoodle is still a dog, so you need to socialize your canine friend from puppyhood properly. .Things to Know When Owning a Miniature Goldendoodle: These dogs are lovable, and you might be tempted to bring one home once you set eyes on it. The amount you provide depends on the size , age, body build, activity level, and metabolism. Goldendoodles are prone to being overweight, so it would be best to measure their food and divide it into two meals a day to keep your dog in good shape. It is best to split the meal instead of giving the dog a whole meal at a time. This is mainly because its Golden Retriever heritage is prone to digestion issues like bloat and gastric torsion. Your Mini Goldendoodle can inherit such issues. These dogs also love water, so swimming will give them another outlet to work out and cut on their energy. Generally, Mini Goldendoodles are active and happiest when they move around, so they require at least half an hour of physical exercise every day. Mini Goldendoodles that do not get enough physical and emotional exercise can channel their excess energy to destruction and excessive barking. They inherit these traits, plus intelligence, from their Golden Retriever heritage, making them suitable for both experienced and first-time dog owners! Even a recently-born Mini Goldendoodle puppy can learn obedience, tricks, and obey commands through early training and socialization. However, even with little to no shedding, they still need consistent maintenance to keep their coat healthy. Brush the hair daily if you intend to keep it long, and brush the coat daily if you prefer it short. Frequent baths can exhaust natural oils and dry the skin. Unfortunately, this breed is prone to ear infections, so it would be best to check for dirt and odor and gently wipe them with a dampened cloth every week. By Dr. They are known for their excellent temperaments and for being great for people with allergies. They make great guide dogs, service dogs, therapy dogs, or just plain old family pets. But there are many things that you need to do to make sure that your puppy is happy and healthy. This article is a complete Goldendoodle Care guide for puppies. How do care for a Goldendoodle puppy? There are many things that you need to do to make sure that your puppy is healthy and happy. Vet visits for vaccines and spay or neuter Provide a high-quality diet Behavioral Training Monitor for signs of Illness By following these steps, you will have your Goldendoodle puppy started on the right track for a long healthy, and happy life. This Golden Doodle Care guide will provide you with the needed resources when you have a question on how to raise your Goldendoodle puppy. How To Care For A Goldendoodle A Visit to the Vet When you get your Goldendoodle a crossbreed between a Poodle and a Golden Retriever that has recently increased in popularity , you will want to schedule an appointment for them at your veterinary office. While this hybrid dog breed is not prone to health issues, they can still contract issues like ear infections or other issues from their environment. Your vet will examine your puppy to make sure that they are healthy and review what vaccines they may have previously received. Most of the time, they will check their stool for worms and get them started on a vaccine schedule. This is a common schedule that most vets follow for vaccines. This is usually done by the breeder before you get your Goldendoodle puppy. Most of these worms are microscopic, but some you can see in their stool. If you see worms, make sure to let your vet know. Your vet can give your Goldendoodle puppy medication to get rid of these nasty worms. Not only will your pet need vaccines, but they will also need heartworm, flea, and tick prevention. All of these parasites can cause health problems in your Goldendoodle , some of which can be fatal. When do I need to get my Goldendoodle Spayed or Neutered? Most vets recommend spaying or neutering your Goldendoodle puppy around 6 months of age. Some people will wait a little longer before spaying and neutering to allow their Goldendoodle with you. Your veterinarian can discuss the pros and cons of spaying your dog around 6-month vs. This decreases the chance of mammary tumors in females and eliminates testicular cancer in males. By not spaying your dog, you are risking them developing a pyometra. A pyometra is an infection in the uterus that can be fatal if not caught early enough. Puppies recover from the spay or neuter procedure very quickly, where older dogs may take a few days. Surgery on your young puppy will help them from developing major problems later on in life. While puppies can be very cute, over breeding dogs has caused lots of pets to end up in a shelter and not in a loving home. For your dog to stay healthy, they will need proper nutrition. There are many great diets on the market. Most pups will need food that is higher in protein than adult food. You should also look at the ingredient list on the back. The first ingredient should be protein. It is also better if it is the whole protein and not a protein meal. Once your Goldendoodle puppy is almost fully grown , you can switch to adult food. This is usually 8 months to 1 year of age. Most Goldendoodles will stay on an adult diet until they are around 7 years, then they will switch to a senior diet. Your veterinarian can recommend many great brands of dog food. Treats often contain higher amounts of fat than regular dog food. How much to feed a Goldendoodle Puppy? Most recommended following the feeding instructions on the bag, but a good rule of thumb is about 1 cup per 15 pounds a day. Most of the time, it is recommended to split these feeding into a few different feedings each day. When your puppy is very young, most vets worry about your Goldendoodle puppy being able to regulate their blood sugar. By giving them multiple meals a day will help keep their blood sugar at optimal levels. Some people will feed their puppy a mixture of wet food and dry food as their teeth are coming in, and once they have all of their teeth with switch them to strictly dry food. When feeding your Goldendoodle wet food, make sure to decrease the amount of dry food that you are feeding them, or your Goldendoodle can become overweight. Behavioral Training and Socialization When you first get your Goldendoodle puppy, you will need to train them on how to act and socialize them with other people and pets. This makes sure that you raise a well-mannered Goldendoodle. You will have to train them on how to do many things such as: Potty Training Not to Chew on things Simple sit and stay commands How to walk on a leash Potty Training There are two main ways that people potty train their dogs. Most people will crate train or potty pad train their Goldendoodle puppies. Crate training is the most common way, but people in apartments or people who live where winter is very harsh sometimes prefer potty pad training as they do not have to always take their dog outside. Crate Training Some people do not want to keep their Goldendoodle in a crate all day while they are gone. Usually, after a few days, these puppies will adapt to being in a crate during the day. It will even make life easier for you, especially if they are making a mess all over the house or destroying everything in the house. By using consistency and teaching your dog that staying in a crate is fun and not scary will not only make potty training easier, it will also help with vet visits and traveling. Goldendoodles love having a place to call their own. By providing them with a crate, full of blankets and toys, and their food bowl, they will quickly love spending time in their crate. By making this space fun and cozy will make it very easy to train your Goldendoodle to stay in a crate and reduce the likelihood of separation anxiety. They do not like lying next to or in their urine or poop. If you have a large mixed breed Goldendoodle puppy probably from a Standard Poodle parent , you can still get a big crate and use the partition provided with the crate to block off a section of the crate for them to stay in while they are growing. When you are not able to watch your puppy constantly put them in their crate. Many times, this will be when your puppy wants to sleep, or you are gone from the house. Your new puppy will let you know that they need out to potty. These signals may be whining and scratching at the side of the crate or barking at you. As soon as you notice these signs, take your puppy out immediately. Do not let them use the bathroom in their crate as this teaches them it is okay to potty in their crate. Eventually, your puppy will be able to hold it the whole time in their crate without having an accident. Potty Pad or Paper Training If you do want to allow your Goldendoodle to have a place to potty inside, the potty pad training them is a great idea. Potty pad training is great for people who are at work for a very long time or people who cannot make it home during the day to let their Goldendoodle outside. This is also great for small Goldendoodles that live in an apartment or in an area where winter is very harsh. By potty pad training your Goldendoodle puppy, you are giving them an approved location to use the bathroom while you are gone. Sometimes potty pad or paper training your puppy is not the best thing to teach them to do. If your final goal is to only have your dog use the bathroom outside, then it is advised to skip potty pad. Potty pad training can teach your dog bad habits and that it is okay to use the bathroom inside the house. Many times, this can be very confusing for young Goldendoodle puppies. How to potty train your Goldendoodle puppy Potty training is very simple. There are both disposable potty pads and washable potty pads that you can reuse. Lay one of these pads out for your puppy. When you would take your Goldendoodle puppy outside to use the bathroom, take them to the potty pad instead. Your Goldendoodle puppy will quickly learn that this is an approved place for them to use the bathroom. With a little persistence and patience, your Goldendoodle puppy with quickly learn where is an approved spot for them to use the bathroom. Goldendoodles are very smart, and very quick learners most only have a few accidents in the house. Some do take a little longer to potty train usually because they can also be very stubborn. Why is my Goldendoodle Chewing on Everything All puppies will go through a teething phase where they will chew on anything. This is a normal and sometimes painful process. Your Goldendoodle puppy will start to lose teeth around 3 months of age and continue until they are a little over 6 months. During this time, you will notice that your Goldendoodle puppy is chewing on anything and everything. This behavior can become a lifelong habit if you do not give your dog something approved to chew on during this puppy teething phase. During the teething phase , your Goldendoodle puppy will find many different types of objects to chew on to relieve the pain from the new teeth coming in. But chewing on your furniture and shoes is usually not a wanted behavior. You should give your dog appropriate toys and teething devices during this time. Also, you need to teach your Goldendoodle puppy that nipping and biting people and other animals are not allowed. If you have another pet in the house during the time that your Goldendoodle puppy is teething, monitor their playtime as sometimes these nips and bites can escalate into a serious fight. Socializing Your Goldendoodle Puppy It is best to start to socialize your puppy early. This is one of the most important parts of caring for your Goldendoodle. Goldendoodles are a very energetic dog, so give them a chance to get in some exercise! Socialization should start around 8 weeks old. Most people will start with puppy classes. This is a way that you can get your Goldendoodle puppy around other puppies. During your Goldendoodle puppy first few months of life, you need to introduce them to many different sounds and environments. Puppy classes will give your puppy the opportunity to learn basic commands such as sit and stay as well as how to walk on a leash. During this time, it is recommended that your Goldendoodle experiences different types of social environments involving people and other dogs. Without this proper Socialization and training, your Goldendoodle puppy may be afraid in certain situations, such as with new people or animals. When training your Goldendoodle puppy, think of all situations that they may have to encounter in their life. Your Goldendoodle puppy should be relaxed around new people, pets, cars, people on bicycles, honking horns, stairs, cats, exams by the vet, and large crowds of people. If you can get your dog to get used to these situations will make for a much more relaxed life for you and your Goldendoodle. Between 2 and 4 months of age, your puppy is the most comfortable learning these new behaviors, having new experiences, and meeting new people or animals. They may still be scared at first, but you can help them by taking them very often to new places and around new people. Also, provide positive reinforcement when they behave appropriately and support them if they are afraid. After your Goldendoodle is 4 months old, they are usually less tolerant of learning to adapt to new environments and people or animals. This can make obedience training difficult in an older dog. Grooming Training Your Goldendoodle puppy will not need much grooming for the first few months. Just a good brushing every day or so to prevent mats and remove tangles will suffice. Show them all the tools, including your clipper, comb , brush , and scissors, and give your Goldendoodle puppy a lot of praise. Touch their nails and face and make sure that they have a good time. This will make grooming them as adults much easier in the future your groomer will thank you! Signs of Illness in Your Goldendoodle When your puppy is young, they are susceptible to many diseases and illnesses. This is why you need to make sure that your Goldendoodle receives all their needed vaccines. These vaccines alone will not prevent all disease. You will also need to watch your puppy for any signs of Illness. If you see any of these signs, you need to take your Goldendoodle puppy to your vet as soon as possible. Not eating.

Introduction A very special dog is now becoming part of your life. So many of the people who have undertaken this journey before you have reported that it was the most rewarding thing they have ever done — and the odds are that it will be for you, too. Puppy mill rescue dogs Over the next year or two, you will watch a dog who has been deprived of virtually every known pleasure begin to first explore, then enjoy, a life that offers her these pleasures. But it may not be an easy road for you and for your new canine companion. Puppy mill dogs have had their world turned upside down. This guide provides you with some specific methods for helping your puppy mill survivor. It is meant to supplement our larger report entitled Understanding and Caring for Rescued Puppy Mill Dogs , which is a comprehensive summary of the findings of our study of over 1, breeding dogs who were rescued from lives in puppy mills and adopted into human households. In obtaining full psychological and behavioral profiles of them, we were able to gain a wealth of information about these incredible dogs. Some basic facts: Puppy mills. They are large-scale commercial dog-breeding operations where the happiness of the dogs is all but ignored in order to make a monetary profit from selling the puppies. To maximize profits, the dogs are housed in very small enclosures, live in unsanitary living quarters, are fed inferior-quality food, are denied decent medical care, and, most important, are severely deprived of positive human social contact. Psychological functioning. Because puppy mill dogs are born and raised in an impoverished environment and endure severe stress throughout life, their psychological functioning is not like that of normally raised pet dogs. This shows itself in how they interact with people, their desire to make eye contact, their social skills with other dogs, their desire to play, their ability to focus attention and learn — in short, their ability to function like a typical dog. Fortunately, the dogs have a remarkable capacity to recover from their psychological impairments. Many recover to the point where they appear to be completely rid of their psychological difficulties, others recover partially but not completely, and others are so severely troubled that they continue to struggle emotionally. Every puppy mill dog has a different capacity to adapt and recover, and we almost never know at the outset what this limit will be or when the dog will reach it. What this means is that adopters must accept up-front that the dog they are taking into their home may retain some psychological impairment throughout his or her life and may always be a special-needs companion. Rehabilitation of puppy mill dogs is often difficult and fraught with frustration. It may take weeks, months, or even years for the dogs to be free of their fears and other emotional struggles. But, as our studies have shown, the adopters who open their arms and hearts to these little survivors are all but assured an immensely rewarding experience. Course of recovery. For some it is fast, but for most it is slow. It can be fast, and then slow, and then fast again. Steps forward are often interspersed with steps backward. All puppy mill dogs are affected by their puppy mill experience in their own way, and their needs for healing are very unique when they escape that life. Methods of rehabilitation will also vary in their effectiveness from dog to dog. Methods that are beneficial for one dog may be ineffective and even counterproductive in another. Rehabilitation can involve some trial and error until you see what works best for your dog. Normal dog behavior. We know that there are many aspects of normal dog behavior that dogs who have spent their entire lives in puppy mills cannot be expected to show at first, among them: Showing any control or discrimination over when and where they urinate and defecate Trusting humans Desiring petting or being picked up, held or hugged Playing with humans, other dogs or toys Understanding any cues Walking on a leash Eight words to live by. Write them on a piece of paper and post it on your refrigerator so you will see it every day. For example, while almost no dog straight out of the puppy mill has any concept of or experience with a collar and leash, if a dog has been given enough time to learn about these things in a foster home, it may mean that, upon coming home with you, the dog is very familiar with wearing a collar and being on a leash. Back to top 2. How to prepare for bringing home your rescued puppy mill dog There are some things you will need to do before your new adopted puppy mill dog arrives in your home. Do: Dog-proof your house. In particular, remove or place out of reach small objects that might be ingested and anything you do not want chewed. Buy a dog crate that is the right size for the new dog tall enough for the dog to stand, long enough to accommodate the dog lying down from nose to base of the tail. Wire crates provide more ventilation, but the dogs feel more exposed correctable by draping blankets over the top and sides. The plastic crates are more den-like, thus providing a greater sense of security. The tops also can come off, allowing a fearful dog to be removed without pulling her through a crate door. Finally, be sure that the bottom of the crate is very comfortable to walk on, as many of these dogs have walked on nothing but wire cage flooring and their feet may be injured and painful. A soft blanket or pad works well for this. Have these additional items already at home before the arrival of the dog: Nylon leash, 6 feet in length Sturdy nylon collar of the correct size You should be able to fit two fingers comfortably under the collar when it is on the dog. Harness Again, you may have to wait until the dog arrives for proper sizing. Back to top 3. How to introduce your dog to your home You will almost certainly adjust to your new dog well before he adjusts to you, your family, and your household. Because of this, one of the strongest inclinations for newly adopted puppy mill dogs is to hide — behind, under, farther away — in any way that lessens the fear. The hiding can be for days or weeks, with the dog coming out only at night to get some food and water. When a puppy mill dog enters your home, your most important job is to protect him from things that frighten him. Do: Be patient. For these dogs, use of a crate will likely have to be omitted from any steps during the adjustment phase to the new home. Ideally, give her a quiet room to herself, where she can adjust without threats and disruptions for the first few days. Place a bowl of water and a little dry and canned food in the room not far from the crate. Put newspapers or piddle pads available at pet stores on the other side of the room. Then leave her alone and just peek in on her occasionally for the next few hours. Fully expect to find that your dog has urinated or had a bowel movement in the room. After a few days in his own room, bring the dog in his crate to an area of the house that has some human activity, but not a lot. The crate should either sit backed up into a corner or be shielded with towels or blankets draped over its top, sides and back end to give the dog a sense of safety behind him. The door to the crate should be left partially open. Here, the dog can feel some security in his crate but begin to be exposed to the all-new experiences of a human household. Next, set up the exercise pen in a room so that your dog can safely venture out of her crate but still feel somewhat protected. The pen also prevents the dog from going into parts of the house that you or she are not quite ready for. Always try to move slowly when around your puppy mill dog. Sudden and fast movements can be very frightening. Minimize loud and sudden noises, since they also can be very frightening. In fact, having another friendly and compatible dog in the house is what adopters tell us is the single most effective thing you can do to rehabilitate the adopted puppy mill dog. At night, having your dog sleep next to your bed can help him adjust to you in a non-threatening way. This may not be suitable for all adopters or the dogs themselves, so each adopter must decide which nighttime sleeping arrangement is best. You want him to learn that, in his safe place, nothing bad happens, which then allows him to feel more relaxed at all times because he knows he can always go to his safe place. Introducing puppy mill dogs to other friendly dogs in the house usually goes smoothly, but here are some tips to encourage a successful meeting. If possible, carry out the first contact between your newly adopted puppy mill dog and your current dog s in a neutral location — that is, someplace that none of the dogs have been before. With you supervising, allow them to watch and smell each other for a few hours. Let the dogs stay there for another hour or two. Next comes face-to-face introductions. If you have several dogs, do the following introduction with just one dog at a time. Put a collar and leash on your dog and also on the puppy mill dog if she accepts it. Have someone else bring the other dog into the room where you and your puppy mill dog are waiting. Be ready to use the leashes to separate them promptly if either shows any signs of aggression growling, snarling, baring of teeth, attempting to bite. When they start to show interest in other things in the environment rather than fully focusing on each other, it will tell you that they are generally accepting of each other. If you have to leave the house, confine the dogs separately so that your puppy mill dog and your other dog s cannot physically interact. You can keep them in separate rooms, or use a dependably strong baby gate to separate them, so that they can still see, smell and hear one another. Feed the puppy mill dog in an area at least 10 feet away from where the other dogs are fed, preferably where they cannot see each other while eating. If your puppy mill dog appreciates toys, she should have her own. Sharing things like toys, beds, food, and treats will come later, once your dogs become friends. Praise all the dogs for friendly behavior toward one another. Maintain a soft and soothing that is, not excited tone of voice so as not to startle or worry a noise-sensitive puppy mill dog. If you notice this happening, keep interactive sessions short until the dogs appear more calm during play. Back to top 5. Puppy mill dogs suffer on both counts. And because of this, puppy mill dogs arrive in the human home with very little willingness or ability to trust you or any other human. More importantly, the trust you want to help your dog develop is a trust in the world, of which you are one very valuable part. For puppy mill dogs, fear diminishes and trust grows in small increments over time. Our studies show that the vast majority of puppy mill dogs come to trust humans, but we have also learned that, for some of the dogs, this trust is extended to only one or two people. As long as the dog has at least one person he can trust, the opportunity exists for him to fully enjoy his life. Establish a consistent schedule that the dog will learn she can depend on. This is a critical part of building trust. Make a schedule for feeding times, going outside, play, rest and sleep — and stick to it. You want to teach your puppy mill dog that he can trust the world, that he can depend on the world to function in a reliable and nonthreatening way. Teach your dog that you are the source of good things in life, starting with food. Most puppy mill dogs will not eat from your hand at first, but with patience you can almost always teach this degree of trust. You can also build trust using treats. Sit on the floor with delicious treats placed at varying distances on the floor around you. It could take minutes or it could take months, but over time almost all puppy mill dogs will eventually start coming closer and closer to you to get the treats. Then, gradually shorten the distances between the treats and your body and between the treats and your hand, until you can place a treat in your upturned palm and have the dog take it out of your hand. When this happens, it is a huge sign of acceptance and trust. You will also want to simply teach your dog that you mean her no harm whatsoever — that you are not something to fear. So, sit on the floor, preferably and talk very softly to your dog. Many people read aloud in a soothing tone, which benefits both your dog and you, since you can get some reading done. If your dog is very frightened, you can read to her as she lies in her crate. Back to top 6. How to touch and handle your dog It is human nature to want to comfort frightened creatures by holding and embracing them. Giving hugs, cuddling, and showering them with love seems to be just what rescued puppy mill dogs need. Most puppy mill dogs are uncomfortable with physical contact by humans, and some are outright terrified. And, in light of their life experience, they have every reason to be. They have received very little or no positive human touch their whole lives. Change takes time, so be patient. Occasionally and gradually edge your arm, hand, leg, or body closer to your dog to show that nearness is no cause for alarm. Given enough time, almost all puppy mill dogs will eventually get close enough to sniff you — a huge step for them. Sometime after that, the dog will usually touch you with her nose or a paw. Let your dog have several weeks of developing confidence in her touching you before you try to touch her. If your puppy mill dog accepts your touch, you may try to pick her up, but do it in gradual steps. First, make sure she allows you to touch her sides, then allows you to place a hand under her body. Just back up to the point at which she did accept it and move through the steps more slowly. If at any point she seems distressed, stop and give her a few days before trying again. Dogs who do this also may roll onto their backs and even pass some urine. All of this is a show of submission. Celebrate your dog making her first physical contact with you. Remain absolutely calm and silent. Any sound or movement could erase the big step the dog has just made. Make direct eye contact at first. Point your head a bit off to the side and keep visual contact out of the corner of your eye. Ever startle a puppy mill dog by touching her from behind. Back to top 7. Early exposure to and interaction with humans during puppyhood is essential for the developing canine brain to form the connections that make for positive social relationships with humans throughout life. So, if a puppy is exposed to stairs in a positive way, for example, his comfort level with stairs will be natural throughout life. By contrast, if a puppy grows to adulthood without ever encountering stairs, he may have a persistent fear of stairs. As you can imagine, puppy mill dogs are routinely deprived of exposure to so many things that dogs living in homes experience every day. So, our overall goal in socializing puppy mill dogs is to lessen their fears of the basic, normal things that pet dogs encounter. We are striving to have them feel comfortable with being around humans and other dogs, being outdoors in wide open spaces, walking on solid ground, going through a doorway, playing with toys, riding in a car, hearing a vacuum cleaner, going up and down stairs, getting bathed, and so much more. Our greatest efforts, of course, are directed at helping puppy mill dogs to become comfortable around and bonded with people so they can enjoy living in human society. Because of the uniqueness of each and every rescued puppy mill dog, socialization plans must be tailored to the individual. Every aspect of the plan — what they are socialized to, where they are socialized, what specific steps and pace are required, what supplemental help e. Other dogs serve as a valuable role model for everything from how to play to where to go to the bathroom. Based on extensive reports from adopters, socialization efforts are very beneficial for many puppy mill dogs, but for others it can actually create distress. First, it is crucial for the puppy mill dog adopter to accept that every dog will maximally socialize to a different level. For example, some puppy mill dogs may be initially unwilling to walk on stairs, but over time will become completely comfortable running up and down stairs. Others may become better on stairs but never comfortable, and still others may become comfortable going up stairs but not down, or vice versa. The same is true with regard to socialization to humans. Some dogs may never achieve a comfort level with certain people in their lives. Only time will tell. All but a few of rescued puppy mill dogs will bond to their primary person, however. Have another dog around to help socialize your puppy mill dog. If you do not have one already, consider adopting another dog in need of a home. Misery may love company, but misery also compounds misery when two fearful dogs live together. Use desensitization and counter-conditioning to help socialize your dog. These techniques make the fearful stimulus e. The goal is to get your dog to associate good things with going to the vet. The same technique can be used to get a dog to enjoy the presence of people, other dogs, or a new baby in the house. When using desensitization and counter-conditioning, everything is done in small, gradual increments. Progress may occur rapidly or very slowly, and different dogs have different limits. Have all interactions between your dog and people she is shy around or fearful of e. They should stand sideways to the dog, crouch down if possible, not make direct eye contact, make no sudden movements, and talk to your dog in a calm, quiet tone of voice. If it is safe to do so i. If this goes well and your dog remains comfortable, give some treats to the person to place in the palm of the hand that she extends to your dog. Avoid the avoidable, when possible. Try pheromone therapy, which can ease anxiety and fear in many dogs. Dog-appeasing pheromone DAP comes in a spray bottle, a plug-in wall diffuser, and a collar. It is available through many online websites and at pet supply stores. Consult your veterinarian to see if this option is appropriate for your dog. Provide whatever comforting words and gestures seem to help your dog cope with his emotional challenges. How this absurd notion ever got started is a mystery, but it is scientific nonsense. Use common sense here. If you had a snake phobia and were placed in a box where snakes were poured on top of you, would you come out of the box less or more fearful of snakes? Ignoring the barking is the best response, because it prevents the dog from being rewarded for trying to get people to go away, and hence reinforcing the behavior. Back to top 8. But we must realize that bodily eliminations inside the house are not accidents at all to the puppy mill dog; in fact, to these dogs, this is perfectly normal behavior. To make matters worse, most of these dogs are very fearful, so training them to do anything — even with strictly positive techniques — can make them even more fearful. For puppy mill dogs, the basic rule is this: Reward the good, distract from the bad. Punishment is never a good idea when house-training a dog, but it can be even more harmful for the fragile and sensitive emotional make-up of rescued puppy mill dogs, impeding and even reversing any progress they are gaining in trusting people. House-training may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year. Try not to get discouraged. As our studies clearly show, some dogs will achieve full mastery of eliminating in the right place. Be very careful when using even the gentlest-sounding house-training methods with puppy mill dogs. Because of the fear these dogs can have, even the most benign things, such as rewarding the dog for urinating in the right place, can scare them. Keep in mind that many puppy mill dogs are very frightened of being outdoors, which is, of course, a major hindrance to training a dog to do her business outside. For these dogs, use piddle pads or newspaper to train the dog to eliminate indoors initially. As an aside, not everyone wants or needs to train their dogs to do their business outside. For them, having the dog eliminate indoors on piddle pads or paper is just fine. It may happen, but do not allow it to be your expectation. Back to top 9. How to deal with marking Marking is when a dog most often a male, but occasionally a female urinates on specific objects or locations because of the influence of sex hormones or some source of stress. Male dogs in puppy mills, all of whom are not neutered obviously , mark in their cages and enclosures as a territorial signal to the other nearby males. The longer they do this before they leave the puppy mill, the more habitual it becomes and the lower the likelihood that it will fully stop even when they are neutered. In addition to the influence of sex hormones, marking can also be triggered by stress, anxiety and fear. And because we know that these emotional states are prominent in rescued puppy mill dogs, it is not surprising to find that marking is common in their new adoptive homes. Competition over human attention, sleeping places, access to certain locations e. Try dog-appeasing pheromone DAP , which comes in a spray bottle, plug-in wall diffuser and a collar, and is available for purchase via many websites. Use belly bands available at pet stores and online if needed. Clean all urine markings very thoroughly with white vinegar and an enzymatic product, which neutralizes urine odors available at pet stores and online. How to leash-train your dog It is extremely rare for dogs in puppy mills to have ever been on a leash. While we take for granted that for a dog or a human , using your neck to pull against something is no big deal, if you have never done that in your life, it would be a very unusual and possibly even scary sensation. This is likely why, in our study of puppy mill dogs, they pull against a leash much less often than typical pet dogs. Similarly, any pulling of the puppy mill dog with a leash is likely very frightening to him because he has never had something pull against this part of his body. Why leash-train? It allows you to gently get your dog out of a tight hiding place, such as out from under furniture, if need be. And it allows you to gently lead the dog to the chosen potty area if the dog is frightened of being picked up and carried. Purchase a sturdy nylon collar and a harness of proper size and fit. This will provide a mild pulling sensation on the collar that should not be upsetting. Be sure to always supervise the dog very closely to prevent the leash from catching on something and endangering your dog. Use the same leash-dragging strategy with the leash attached to the harness. You can alternate this with the sessions of collar attachment. Use only the harness if the collar is upsetting to your dog. Use delicious food treats as enticements and rewards when you first attach the collar, harness or leash, if your dog seems resistant but not distressed. Feed the treats while another person is placing the collar or harness on, or attaching the leash. Doing this in short trials over several hours or days should lead the dog to associate the apparatus with the treats and then be accepting of having them put on and wearing them. When it appears that leash-dragging is well tolerated, pick up the leash and follow your dog as she walks around, occasionally giving a very slight pull on the leash. Slowly increase the amount of resistance so she can feel what a little tension against the collar or harness feels like. Using this method, most dogs become quite comfortable with walking on leash. When she seems relatively confident with the outdoors, you can take her outside on the leash. Almost all of these things are eventually achievable, but you must go very slowly and be guided by what your dog shows he is ready for. Back to top .How to crate-train your dog The first thing to know about crate-training a puppy mill dog is this: Not all puppy mill dogs can be — or should be — crate-trained. Seeing, and especially being in, a cage-like enclosure may arouse memories of the puppy mill. Why crate-train? For this function, the crate door is left open. There are times when you need your dog to be in her crate, such as during the night or when workers are in the house and your door may be inadvertently left open. For this function, the crate door is kept closed. Make being in the crate a positive experience for the dog. Try feeding the dog in her crate and offer treats in the crate. In fact, anytime you lead your dog into the crate for the purpose of confinement, include a favorite treat e. Make sure your dog has first had the opportunity to go to the bathroom anytime she is put in the crate with the door closed. Start with short periods of time in the closed-door crate and slowly work up to longer periods of time. This means first observing how long your dog is comfortable in the crate before showing any indications of anxiety, such as pacing, pawing at the crate door, digging into the corners of the crate, crying, whimpering or barking. If possible, do several of these sessions each day. Then, over the next few weeks, very gradually increase the time she is spending in the crate during each session. In most cases, you will be able to extend the length of time that she can comfortably spend in the crate by several hours. He will very quickly form a mental association between crate and fear, and that may simply escalate the fear level. Use the crate in any way as punishment. Allow anything to make the crate an unpleasant experience. How to teach your dog to respond to basic cues Teaching your dog to respond to basic cues e. Basic training also establishes a leader and follower relationship, which is the most basic foundation for correcting any problem behaviors that may arise later. For the dogs who are negatively affected by training, there are two main factors at work: fear and an impaired ability to focus and concentrate. Actual training methods can be found in many books and online videos, including the Best Friends online pet care library. What you need to know here is how standard methods of basic training must be modified for the special needs of puppy mill dogs. Take your dog to training classes if you prefer having the structure of a class, but only if the other dogs, people and commotion do not cause your dog distress. Make certain that the professional trainer if you use one is knowledgeable about rescued puppy mill dogs and has had experience with them. Learning requires the mind to concentrate and maintain focus, and our studies show that, when compared to typical pet dogs, puppy mill dogs are less able to do this. None of this means that puppy mill dogs cannot learn, but they will have different capacities for how fast and how much they can learn. Try desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques if your dog seems very fearful or distressed by attempts at training. How to deal with poop-eating Dogs coming out of puppy mills do some strange things, but eating poop known as coprophagia is certainly one of the most unappealing to us humans. Puppy mill dogs eat poop for many reasons — ranging from hunger to relief of boredom. There are food additives that can make poop distasteful to a dog. The additives must be added to the food of any dog whose poop your dog is eating. Other things that your dog may prefer over poop include crumbled dog treats or small bits of bread. Punish your dog for eating poop. He looks clean, he smells better than he once did. He eats better now than he ever did. This is Sawyer. My dream dog. My once hopeful stud boy. When I took him home he was infested with worms, reeked like a New York City trash can and had hip dysplasia. It took months to rehabilitate and glue his broke shell back together. I remember standing at the door for 3 hours while he stood in my back yard not allowing me to get near him; he stood in the cold November rain and shivered. He wanted to come in so badly but was too afraid. I stood inside the kitchen soaking wet crying and begging him to come in. I finally had to get a bed sheet and with my husbands help cornered him and tossed the sheet over him. He was purchased from a well known breeder who offered a warranty and a guarantee on his health. We promptly started health testing him when he got home. Sadly he failed his OFA and was diagnosed with hip dysplasia. His breeder refuses even after receiving proof to honor her warranty. She herself admitted that she has never tested her dogs but yet sells them at a premium rate. Look for proof of testing. She never cried a day in her life for this dog. This is Sawyer, I cry when asked about him, he will always have a special place in my heart. I saw old rusted crates stacked along the drive, driving past a dog run out by some trees I saw a dog house and 4 small dogs, I parked next to a car port type structure that housed several cages stacked on top of one another in rows, inside the cages were chickens, rabbits, cats, ferrets and other small animals. There were several small shack like out buildings. I walked up to the door and knocked, no one answered but I had called 5 minutes prior so they knew I was there. I opened the door leaning inside to say Hello; looking around there were empty cages everywhere and bags of Purina stacked 10 or more bags high, empty bags and other trash scattered on the floor. Back out on the porch I called the breeder to alert them that I was there, looking up I was faced with 2 dobermans not looking very happy, I later learned that they were nice. I entered a room with a desk, sofa, 2 recliners, a TV, door covered with bed sheets and walls lined with dog crates stacked from floor to ceiling, wall to wall, filled with filthy dogs. I had arrived with enough cash to buy 4 dogs. In the cage above them I found Sawyer, then referred to as Prado. He was scared and my heart broke seeing him. I passed it up. I drove home with a pit in my stomach but vowed to take care of and do the right thing by those dogs. He has a dog brother who keeps him in line, he has been trained and know several tricks; can wave, high five, pray, dance, roll over… and many more. I get letters from Sawyer every few months and everyone of his letters makes me cry. He is doing great and is a good boy. I love you Sawyer. Another sad story starts with an Oregon breeder sending me a dog in whelp, the dog was due 2 weeks after she arrived. I took the fluffy white dog out of her crate at the airport holding her in the air to shine my smile upon her face and once again found myself looking into sad scared eyes. I took her to the vet to confirm her pregnancy and the vet told me what I already knew. I had her groomed to get her pee stained and matted coat into presentable shape; I was called by the groomer to tell me she had bit her. Took her home to have her a few days later bite my 11 year old daughter and to later have her bite a guest in my home and my vet the day I returned her to her breeder. Being told stories from clients about an Indiana breeder who is breeding a dog that was either hit by a car or stepped on, the story was told to me by multiple clients who claimed to visit the breeder and was told the dog had a funny limp and was skittish because of her accident, unfortunately the cause of the accident change based on who was visiting. Calls from other concerned customers who visited an Iowa breeder; was advised in order to visit she first had to pay for a puppy. Arriving to play with the puppies they found the adult dogs matted and dirty, so dirty even that to touch them or have the dogs brush up against them would soil their clothes and leave an awful stench. Hearing barking in a side room where they were able to gain a quick peek revealed dogs in crates stacked from floor to ceiling. Calls from a different client reported a visit to a neighboring Iowa breeder with a similar story. I will continue to report on stories from clients and my experiences with puppy mill breeders. Here are other dogs who were found in puppy mills across the United States. Please support ethical breeding and do not buy pets from pet stores or puppy mills. The Labradoodle is a companion dog and should not be raised in a kennel, they need human companionship and thrive on being loved. If after looking at these pictures your heart needs to rescue a doodle contact the International Doodle Owners Group a 3 c rescue www. If you are unclear of what a puppymill is take a look at the pictures below. They are sickening and; REAL. This type of life for millions of poor unfortunate dogs is a reality everyday. For many dogs they are confined in conditions like this for their entire life until they are no longer able to breed to make their capturers money then they are killed. The dogs you see in these pictures are VERY lucky as they are being photographed because they were rescued. So many dogs do not hit the dog lottery and make it out alive. How can you help? Well, Kent and I were talking last night in how it was one of the better decisions we have made. First, he and Willie are the best of buddies. Every morning Sawyer wakes up and climbs in between Kent and I giving us kisses. He loves to climb next to you and cuddle up, such a snuggler. In my opinion he is just a complete embodiment of love. He always wags his tail and just loves his life. Sawyer is just as good for Willie as Willie is for Sawyer. This past time when WIllie saw my travel bag he followed me around every where. Then he started to pout. I always make up what they are saying, by the way. But sometimes I think he is so happy because of the trials he went through. He tries to wake Willie up and the rest of us. Needless to say, we love our dogs. They are some of the most popular in the neighborhood! They are both unique in their same ways, and they both show their love in different ways. But they really love each other. Have your heart set on a doodle puppy? Colorado Puppy Rescue is a great rescue to consider. They focus on the rescue of puppies and their mothers. Puppies and pregnant mothers are often listed as only available to rescue organizations by county shelters, which means they may be at risk of euthanasia. Colorado Puppy Rescue takes in puppies and their mothers from mostly rural shelters and rescues throughout Colorado, Oklahoma, Texas , and New Mexico. Colorado Puppy Rescue places all of their dogs into foster homes which have been specially screened to provide the best possible care to mothers and puppies. When adopting a puppy from Colorado Puppy Rescue, you can have some confidence that they have been well raised and socialized prior to becoming available for adoption. Colorado Puppy Rescue has been rescuing dogs and puppies for over 16 years. While they are not particularly likely to get doodle puppies, it is possible. If you put in an application with Colorado Puppy Rescue you may be matched with the puppy you are looking for. Applications stay on file for six months, so if you are willing to wait, there is a decent chance that a puppy that meets your needs will become available. All puppies available from Colorado Puppy Rescue receive a full veterinary examination and have their vaccinations. They also offer a complimentary free wellness check. Adopting the mothers of these puppies is also a wonderful option. Dogs who have been mothers are often great with other pets in your home and many people believe them to be particularly sweet and sensitive. Colorado Puppy Rescue stands by its puppies for life. If for any reason you would need to return your puppy to this rescue, they are more than happy to take them back and find the perfect home for them. They take in a wide variety of mixed-breed puppies, including poodle mixes. This rescue was founded by volunteers who participated in other rescues but found that the specific needs of puppies and their mothers often went unmet. This is why this rescue was founded. Fosters who house the dogs after they have been rescued are key to his rescue. Fosters carefully train, socialize, and generally prepare puppies for life in an adoptive home. These spay and neuter clinics help rural county shelters to reduce the number of dogs that come in by providing low-cost spay and neuter programs so that fewer unwanted puppies will be born. Instead, consider a breed-specific doodle rescue to surrender your doodle to. Rocky Mountain Puppy Rescue depends heavily on its foster program to provide safe homes for dogs before they are adopted. If you have never owned a puppy before, fostering with Rocky Mountain Puppy Rescue is a great idea. You can learn what it takes to take care of a puppy to help you decide whether puppy adoption is right for you or whether you would be better off adopting an adult dog that may require slightly less care. Rocky Mountain Puppy Rescue fully supports their fosters and depends on them to save lives. You will then fill out an adoption application and attend an adoption event to meet the puppies you are considering. Having your paperwork done ahead of time makes it much more likely that you will be able to adopt the dog you want. National Mill Dog Rescue National Mill Dog Rescue saves breeding dogs that have been discarded, typically from less than reputable sources like puppy mills. It was founded in by Theresa Strader. She became aware of the plight of breeding dogs when she rescued an Italian Greyhound from an auction in Missouri. This dog had spent the seven years that she had been alive as a commercial breeding dog and was in very poor condition. She had spent all of her life in a little wire cage, never exercised or socialized. She had severe dental disease and was terrified of people. Once Theresa Strader realized what many breeding dogs go through, she decided to start a rescue specifically for them. National Mill Dog Rescue takes in a wide variety of dogs that have been deliberately bred. Because doodles are so popular, there is a very good chance that you will be able to find a doodle at this rescue at some point. Most of the dogs in this rescue are retired breeding dogs, although sometimes they are dogs that have been surrendered by their owners because of medical reasons or because the breeder went out of operation. Many have been poorly bred and may have issues that will not go away, even with dedicated care. National Mill Dog Rescue is extremely supportive of their adopters, providing one-on-one behavioral support, medical care, and whatever else the dog needs. They will always take back dogs that are adopted out from their rescue. National Mill Dog Rescue is willing to adopt out nationally, just as they rescue nationally. However, you will need to travel to the rescue to pick up your dog. They require fenced-in yards for many of their dogs and they require the other pets in the home to be spayed or neutered. Liz Nass enass mlive. Ford International Airport was filled with barks after 98 dogs rescued from a puppy mill landed in Grand Rapids Friday, June .Commercial dog breeding facilities in which the health of the dogs are disregarded in order to maximize profits are considered puppy mills. These dogs were said to have neglected and living in overcrowded conditions. She said their biggest mission is to get the dogs to local shelters with capacity for a large number and hopefully find them home. As the plane coming from Springfield, Missouri pulled up to the hangar, there was a lot of excitement from the representatives of seven West Michigan shelters waiting to take them to a safe environment. The dogs were a mix of chihuahuas, poodle mixes and dachshunds. Miss Bianca was the first dog to come off the plane, shaking and nervous as she stepped into her new life. Ford Airport on Friday, June 23, .Miss Bianca was the first dog off the plane. Drew Travis MLive. Twenty-two dogs are heading to the Cascade Humane Society. She said the next steps for the dogs include giving the dogs quick physicals to medically evaluate them, with many of them having dental issues when they come out of puppy mills, as well as spaying and neutering them if needed. The next step after that is to just give the dogs time to rest and readjust to life outside of the puppy mill, including providing them love and care, while they wait to hopefully be adopted. She said this situation required all hands on deck and she was excited to see the amount of support in the community to load the dogs up and take them across the region. She is hoping that the dogs will be able to fully acclimate sooner rather than later with their quick response to the call for help. Schlacter said the foundation facilitates one transport almost every week, constantly working to bring dogs to safer and loving situations. As all the dogs were loaded up into their shelter vans, the crowd cheered, ready for them to start the next phase of their life. After most of the dogs were on the way to their shelters, Bissell took one of the five-year-old males outside to walk around in the grass. She said he was headed to Harbor Humane Society in Holland. Schlacter said that there is no better feeling than seeing a successful transport of pets, and she will be excited to hear the adoption stories later on from the group. Want more Grand Rapids-area news? More on MLive:.

Apply to Adopt A little about us.Genuine Australian labradoodle puppy breeder since .Located in Monterey, California just two hours south of San Francisco. We are a small in-house breeder specializing in breeding miniature to medium labradoodles from the seeing eye dog Australian lines. We do not ship our puppies but will meet new owners at the airport. We average four to five litters a year. This gives us the time to complete early neurological stimulation starting at three days and desensitizing to fireworks, thunderstorms, etc. We give each litter and each puppy the love and attention it needs during those first irreplaceable eight weeks of your puppy's life. We take great responsibility in giving every puppy the best start in order to grow into a well-adjusted, highly socialized, and healthy member of your family for many years to come. Our puppies are born in our bedroom, raised in our kitchen and get the best of care and lots of handling from their first day. We not only guarantee genetic health but also have very strict requirements for the temperaments of the breeding dogs in our program. Puppies are examined by a veterinarian, vaccinated, and micro chipped before going home. About Australian Labradoodles.Australian Labradoodles are beautiful, healthy, allergy and asthma friendly. They were originally bred to be service dogs and not a 'designer' pet. The Labradoodle breed started with a request over thirty years ago by a family needing a seeing eye dog but who also had a family member with asthma. After some research and years of breeding by leading service dog breeders, Tegan Park and Rutland Manor in Australia, the Australian Labradoodle was born. Our top goal is excellent health, fantastic temperament, and service qualities. Just like any other breed that becomes popular, though, some breeders have started breeding for the popularity of these dogs and not for the benefit of the breed itself. So here's how to make sure you're getting the dog you want. Here are some helpful tips to understand what a breeder means when they are using these phrases. The multi-generation Australian Labradoodle, which is the original Labradoodle, has a foundation stock including six different parent breeds. These dogs were developed in Australia, and hence the "Australian" in the name of the dogs. This was a breed that was developed with goals in mind for a low shedding service dog, not a designer dog. The multi-generation Labradoodle has only poodle and lab in its heritage. It does not include the other parent breeds that were originally used by the creators of the breed. These have been primarily developed later in the U. These dogs tend to shed their coat since they are more closely related to the Labrador and often have a wire hair look to them. The "Back Cross" or "F1B" is a dog from an F1 see above mated back to a poodle usually for coat correction. These dogs have not had the multiple generations of Labradoodle mated with another Labradoodle nor the addition of Australian Labradoodle foundation stock or multiple parent breeds. With 17 years of experience in breeding Australian Labradoodles, we pride ourselves on selecting only the best dogs for our breeding program, which in turn ensures that we are producing the best puppies imaginable. We work closely with our licensed vet to perform health testing, including hip and elbow testing; eyes, heart, skin, and patella testing; and a series of genetic tests, on all of our breeding dogs. We provide a temperature controlled, in home my master bedroom environment, with sound therapy to expose your puppy to lifes sounds from an early age. This helps desensitize your puppy to the sounds of life traffic, fireworks, outdoor machinery, crying baby, misc appliances, automobiles, etc. We start crate training at 5 weeks with a soothing heartbeat snuggle puppy to comfort them as they transition to sleeping alone and all the puppies love it and sleep better with minimal crying. We add nutrients and special additives for puppies to their drinking water. We add probiotics to their food for a healthy GI tract and immune system. We make special liver water, gruel, with puppy supplements, dog milk formula to their nutritionally dense food to support eyes, ear, bone, joint, coat and heart health. We expose your puppy to sunlight daily on the deck right outside the puppy nursery area. There is always a plush bedding for their cozy comfort in their play areas for those impromptu naps puppies love. Our puppies are held and played with while being bathed and exposed to water, in our walk-in shower, which builds a positive experience, with water, for their lifetime. Bath time is with a human sitting in this large shower allowing plenty of space for your puppy too roam around and enjoy water in a nurturing experience. The puppies love it instead of being in a sink with a dry human just washing them. Water is actual playtime while they get clean and build positive experiences with being wet. Instead we utilize Puppy Culture, Badass Breeder protocols and tons of love from humans that are passionate and dedicated to what they do. Please feel free to contact us with any questions. We look forward to providing you with your fury best friend! When full grown, these health tested, Australian Labradoodle puppies will be approximately pounds with wavy fleece coats, curly fleece coats or the occasional straighter hair fleece coats. Our puppies can go home as early as 8 weeks old. We can also hold back a puppy if you are interested in training services. Sugar Pine Doodles on Facebook. Would you like to be a guardian for one of our breeding doodles? Please click for our Guardian Home Program to learn more. Find the Next Member of Your Family. We strive to produce dogs absent of the genetic diseases prevalent in many purebred dogs today. We offer a 2-year Health Warranty against severe genetic defects and pledge to provide lifetime consulation support for your dog. We aim for a "personal" touch in our relationship with our puppy families and are happy to answer any questions you might have about the breed, about our dogs and about what you might expect from an Australian Labradoodle Puppy. Pictures and stories of our most recent litters and adult dogs on our "Puppy Photo Blog"! Happy Fall ! Puppies Are On The Ground! We are taking reservations for our 4 litters going home December- March .Chocolates, Reds, Apricots, Caramels in large mini to mediums. A Guardian Home will keep the dog as their own family pet, while we retain breeding rights for a specified number of litters in the case of females , after which she will be spayed and retired to the family forever. Males will need to remain intact for years. Please phone or email for more information on this opportunity. A few key facts about our program.You can follow how our puppies grow on our "Puppy Photo Blog"! Our dogs live in our homes as beloved family members or in loving Guardian Homes. The adult dogs play an important role in socializing puppies and teaching them canine "Good Manners," while the human family members devote countless hours to individualized puppy care. Puppies are exposed to a variety of different stimuli including vacuum cleaners, car rides, a cat, chickens, annoying pop music, unusual culinary aromas, an excess of televised sporting events, and the bagpipes! Careful but Extensive Socialization While we are extremely careful about keeping young puppies protected from disease and from stress, we try to expose the puppies to a variety of humans throughout their lives with us. Personalized "Match-making" While we appreciate good-looks as much as the next person, temperament and sound health are the key factors behind breeding quality Labradoodles. Can you judge a book by its cover? We evaluate our puppies' personalities extensively and focus on achieving the optimal match between puppy and family. Ongoing Support Have questions about how to manage your new family member? Need advice on food or training? Referral to a vet or groomer? Or would you like a lesson on grooming your dog? Vacation boarding for your new puppy? We are committed to providing assistance to our Labradoodle community throughout the life of the dog. Payments In , The Guide Dog Association in Australia began a breeding and research program to produce a dog that was highly intelligent, with a wonderful disposition, that would not shed and therefore be allergy friendly. The Association carefully selected a female Labrador, and a male Poodle of superior quality to breed. John Gosling agreed to breed the first litter of Labradoodles in an attempt to lessen the likelihood of allergic reactions. Pat Blum was overjoyed with the outcome and was able to finally get her much needed Guide Dog that she named Sultan. Being such a desirable dog, the Labradoodle is still being bred by many people today. They are gentle, sweet and loving. These traits make them an ideal family dog that is much sought after in the general public. The Labradoodle is a cross between a Labrador Retriever and a Poodle. Wally Cochran was the driving force behind this program, and the goal was to produce a non-shedding guide dog by using a Labrador Retriever and a Standard Poodle. The result of this cross produced intelligent, easily trainable puppies that were the beginning of the Labradoodle as we now know it. Crossing these two breeds also gave the Labradoodle a hybrid vigor and a variety of coats. Allergy and Asthma sufferers take heart, Labradoodles may be the breed for you! The Labradoodle can vary in size: Height in.

Some Final Words It is highly doubtful that there is a fast way to do this training. Every dog, no matter the method, takes its own time to learn. For Yorkies, some dogs get the idea in 2 months, while others of their breed take longer to learn. It is really up to the dog and how you treat them during this training. Positive reinforcement is always the fastest way to success. Negative reinforcement may set the training back while your dog adjusts to the treatment. Praising and rewarding your Yorkie will make them want to use the litter box over other options. The key to this process is to make sure you have the right size box for your Yorkie, use the right litter, and place the box in the best spot possible. You do not want it close to their food at any time. When you use consistency, patience, and persistence, your Yorkie should learn to go to the litter box on their own and without prompting from you. Click here to find out. Yes, it is possible to train any small dog to use a litter box. This is an advantageous method to use for your pet. It means that they do not have to wait till you get home or get up to go to the bathroom. They can just saunter on over to the litter box and do their duty without delay. That makes bathroom time more relaxing for your pet. Plus, it helps put your dog at ease as they know they will have no hassle when they go to the bathroom. The key to litter box training your small dog is to make sure the box is the right size. No dog will feel comfortable or will want to use the litter box if it is too small for them. Fortunately, litter boxes come in different sizes since cats come in different sizes. That means you can find a good-sized litter box for your Yorkie or other small dog breeds. Another key will be to let your dog become familiar with the box. Let them sniff and explore to make sure they know it is a safe place for them. Make sure the sides are not too high, or they may not be able to get in or out very easily. This will be up to you as there are several options. The content you use will depend on how much cleaning up you want to do. You can use newspapers if your dog is newspaper trained already. But that would be a short-term option once your dog gets the idea that the litter box is their bathroom. Another option would be pee pads. These are easy to clean up and can help keep the litter box clean and smelling fresh. If you can afford to buy these pee pads, then you can use them all the time. The best option would be actual kitty litter. But you do not want to buy low-quality litter as they do not absorb very well. These low-level options would be like using a newspaper. To make the time more enjoyable for your pet, make sure to get high-quality kitty litter. It should smell nice, absorb well, and make it easier to clean up when your dog is done. Some Final Words When you have a small dog and live in a small place, training your puppy to go in a litter box is a good idea. This allows your pet to go to the bathroom when you are at work or asleep, making it easier for your pet. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. House Training a Yorkie Overview This breed is actually more easy to house train than some other types of breeds. In general, the Yorkie aims to please. However, in order to have quick success, you'll need to be prepared. This involves having the right things in place in order for housebreaking to work. In addition, you'll want to have a clear understanding of all of the guidelines. If you are not following the rules, neither can your Yorkshire Terrier. This section will show you exactly how to house train a Yorkie with step-by-step tips and advice. Overview of What Will be Needed Before we dive into all of the details, it may help you to have a general understanding of what will need to be in place and be done for housebreaking to work. Then, we'll get into specifics. Realistic expectations. Yorkie puppies do not have full control over bladder and bowel muscles. These will develop as the pup grows. So, needs can only be held for so long. In general, a 2-month old can go about 2 hours, a 3-month old for 3 hours, and so on. This does not mean that your 3-month old puppy will pee and then not pee again for another 3 hours. It just means that this is the maximum time that should lapse between taking the pup out. A supervision method. If your Yorkie is let outside alone, there will be zero opportunities to learn. And if you are not keeping a very close eye on your Yorkie while inside, there will be pee and poo just about everywhere. Exact adherence to housebreaking rules. Every element that is listed is here for a reason. If you halfheartedly follow these, if just some of the household members do the steps, or if some steps are done but not others, success will be limited. Proper reaction to accidents. If you follow all of these steps to potty train your Yorkie, there will be very few accidents. However, some will occur, and it'll be important that you react the right way. Indoor Vs Outdoor House Training For the best and fastest results, we highly recommend housebreaking a Yorkie to eliminate outdoors. It is canine instinct to sniff around outside and choose 'just the right spot'. And, going to the bathroom outside is much easier for a dog than trying to hit the mark on pee pads set up indoors. This said, if you do choose the indoor method of setting up pee pads, do follow all of the same advice here. The main difference will be that the 'designated area' will be the pee pads instead of a bathroom area outside. Step 1 Choose the Bathroom Area One area should be chosen as the designated bathroom area. Here are some important elements about this: A huge part of housebreaking a Yorkie is that the pup will be brought to this area by you. This means that you will not just open the door and let your Yorkie outside. Not only is this very dangerous, but it brings the learning opportunities down to zero. The area should be easily accessible in all seasons and in all weather. What seems to work well in the summer may be hard to reach in the winter. We will also cover some things you can do to make heading outside more tolerable. This should be at least 10 feet away from any family areas, such as the barbecue, outdoor eating spot, etc. Not doing this is the downfall of many housebreaking attempts. An owner sees that their Yorkie is rather close by, they turn to tidy up the room.Or, the puppy is playing with his toys, so the owner looks through the mail and makes a call, and the puppy leaves a poo behind the sofa. So, unless you have your eyes directly on your Yorkie with no distractions, one of two things must be happening: 1 Tethered supervision. If you cannot give your Yorkie your undivided attention but can keep him by your side as you are doing other things, keep your Yorkie tethered to you via a harness and a short 6-foot leash. Note that the harness is vital; do not use a collar as this can cause neck injury. In addition, the leash should be short; 6 feet 9 at the most and lightweight those made of climbing rope are incredibly durable but light, and work well. Any time that your Yorkie makes a motion to pee or poo, you will immediately pick him up and bring him to the designated area. And you will carry him if you must a great benefit of having such a tiny toy breed. For any times that you cannot keep your Yorkie right by your side or for any times that you are not home, you'll need to keep your Yorkie in one specific spot. It is not recommended to use a crate. Crates are terribly confining, and can cause both physical and emotional stress. Since a dog will pee or poo regardless of the size of his area when he simply cannot hold his needs any longer, there is no benefit to keeping a dog in such a small cage. It is also not recommend to use a gate to give a Yorkie an entire room. This not only is potentially dangerous unless the room is fully puppy-proofed, but it also opens up a huge problem with destructive chewing many pups being housebroken are also in the teething phase. And, the pup will end up peeing and pooing all over the room. What is recommended is a properly sized indoor canine playpen also referred to as exercise pens. These offer just the right amount of space, and are often used to help cure separation anxiety it offers a secure feeling of a 'den', while ensuring that all of a Yorkie's necessities are right there with him. Let's take a pause to show our recommended supervision and containment items. Below you will see a harness that comes in extra-extra small, a 6-foot leash made of climbing rope which makes it very lightweight, and two great playpen options. If you do not see the images, try a refresh, and on mobile, you may need to turn the screen horizontal to see all 4. How to set up the playpen: Choose a spot in a room that is used by the family; dogs do not like to feel isolated. If you'll be putting this over carpeting, you may want to obtain a small piece of linoleum from your local home supply store to serve as the base. Within the pen will be a quality bed, a few helpful toys for teething or engagement, food if you'll be gone , water, and a spot for pee-pads. Dogs very rarely soil their own belongings, so any housebreaking accidents will most likely end up on the pads. Note, that if your Yorkie tends to move the pee pads or chews at them, using a canine litter box minus the sand, because that rarely works to hold the pads can work well to keep them in place. Below are some recommended items you may want to have inside the playpen. If you do not see the images, try a refresh, and on mobile, you may need to turn your screen horizontal to see all 4. This combination is how dogs learn best, and what will motivate them to keep working at something. Emmy, photo courtesy of Terry DeMeyer Once a dog carries out a particular action enough times, it becomes automatic; at that time, reward will not be a 'must'; however, it does help to reinforce good behavior. The praise. Choose a certain word or phrase that you will always use. This should be something that you do not mind calling out in public. Just saying 'bathroom' is perfectly fine; though, 'pitty-potty' or another like term will work as well. You will say this each time you bring your Yorkie to the designated bathroom area Let's go pitty-potty and immediately after your dog has done the deed Good pitty potty, good dog! The reward. Special treats should be at the ready, in a zipped sandwich bag, and placed near the exit door that leads to the bathroom area. You'll want to be able to grab and pocket these as you are taking your Yorkie out. As you offer praise, palm a treat and allow your Yorkie to mouth it. The type of treat that you choose as reward for housebreaking plays a big role. Here are 3 tips to keep in mind: This should not be a snack that would be given out regardless. It should be be highly tasty, giving a quick burst of flavor that offers immediate signal of a job well done. It should be small the idea is to offer instantaneous satisfaction and not something that a dog needs to sit down to chew on. Since you'll also want to take care that the treats are high-quality no chemical additives, no by-products, no artificial coloring, and made in the US , one great option is one of the flavors of Fruitables; these come in many flavors, so if your Yorkie is already being given these, try a new flavor like Crispy Bacon and Apple or Mango Blueberry. Below are our recommended treats to reward for housebreaking. If you do not see the images, try a refresh. And on mobile, you may need to turn your screen horizontal to see all 4. Step 4 The Actual House Training Rules Now that you have prepared and have things in place to allow your efforts to be successful, it is time to implement the training. Here are 8 rules to follow: 1. Take your Yorkie to the same designated area every single time. Stand in the center of that area, and allow your Yorkie to choose the exact spot within the diameter. Do not hesitate with praise and reward as soon as your Yorkie urinates or has a bowel movement. Say, 'Good, pee-poo! Bring your Yorkie there before each walk. Allowing a dog to pee or poo while out for his daily walks is a missed opportunity for teaching housebreaking. Be patient. Dogs can take anywhere from 1 to 15 minutes to relax bowel muscles. Bring a chair if you must, but do give your Yorkie enough time. Bring your Yorkie outside often enough. This should be: Right after your pup wakes up About 20 minutes after each meal Right after you arrive back home, if you've been out Every so-many hours depending on age 3 hours for a 3-month-old, 4 hours for a 4-month old, etc. Right before bed 6. Your Yorkie should right in your sights, be tethered to you, or in his playpen. As soon as you see a leg lift or a squat, give a loud hand clap to interrupt and bring your pup right out, even if you must carry him. Time meals. Most Yorkshire Terriers do well with 3 meals per day, 2 to 3 snacks, and with the last meal or snack about 2 hours before bedtime. But, if your Yorkie is waking up and having a bowel movement super early, you may want to try adjusting dinnertime. This may lead to a bowel movement later in the evening before bed, as opposed to 4 or 5 AM. React appropriately at night. Most young puppies will bark intermittently throughout the night and it will be important to try and ascertain if the barking at night is for attention or because there is a bathroom need. Most very young puppies do not yet know to alert you to needs, so the majority of vocalization will be to gain your attention. Since you do not want to your puppy to learn that he's allowed to wake you up times, unless you highly suspect that he needs to poo or pee, barking should be ignored and the pup will learn to self-sooth. If you do bring him out, you will want to strongly convey that this is a serious time and not one for play. Keep lights low and do not speak at all unless it is to offer praise for urinating or eliminating in the designated area. Step 5 Reacting to Accidents If you are home and always have your Yorkie directly within your line of sight, tethered to you, or in his playpen, there should be essentially no times of accidents. And, if when you are not home you have your Yorkie in a playpen, since this is a defined space, pee and poo will be kept to one small area, and hopefully on the pee pads. This said, if your Yorkie does pee and poo in the house, you'll want to react the right way and clean it in the right way. Reacting: If you see your Yorkie starting to pee or poo, interrupt him via a loud hand clap and a firm 'No. If you come across a puddle of pee or a little pile of poo but did not witness it happening, reassess what lead to this in the first place. Were you following the supervision and confinement methods? Also, do not bother reprimanding; it will do little good and being scolded or yelled at may only serve to make your Yorkie afraid of you. Cleaning: Both urine and feces leave strong, lingering scents. The enzymes in this waste matter are not washed away with soap and water. So, while you may not smell anything at all, and the spot may look clean once you've taken care of it, it may still be sending out an almost impossible-to-ignore message to your Yorkie that says 'This is the bathroom area'. For this reason, thoroughly clean any accidents with a quality enzyme cleanser. In most cases, this is a matter of the pup not being outside long enough. Unless a Yorkie urgently needs to go, it can take upward of 15 minutes for the pup to relax bladder and bowel muscles and focus on eliminating. It's a common occurrence for owners to rush back inside too early, particularly if the weather is unpleasant. So, if it is cold, be sure that you're dressed warm enough, and have a warm coat or vest for your Yorkie. If it is raining, why not try a pet umbrella? These work very well for tiny toy breeds like the Yorkshire Terrier not such a great idea for larger dogs. Another trick to try is to hold your Yorkie on your lap after coming back inside. Very few dogs will pee on their owner. Wait 10 minutes, and head out again. If your Yorkie eats grass, noses pebbles, chases butterflies, barks at the dog next door, lies down to take a nap, or otherwise does everything other than going to the bathroom, there are two things to take note of: 1 - Each time that you bring your Yorkie out, the goal is to offer the opportunity to pee or poo, not to insist that it happen. So, if a few of the trips are uneventful, that is fine. Remember, you are in charge. My Yorkie does everything outside other than pee. If your Yorkie eats grass , noses pebbles, chases butterflies, barks at the dog next door, lies down to take a nap, or otherwise does everything other than going to the bathroom, there are two things to take note of: 1 - Each time that you bring your Yorkie out, the goal is to offer the opportunity to pee or poo, not to insist that it happen. My Yorkie is out of control, and pees and poops everywhere in the house, even on my bed. And sleeping up on an owner's bed should not be allowed. See Step 2 in regard to setting things up for success by choosing supervision and confinement methods. A Word About Marking This is not actually a matter of house training; marking is a behavioral issue. Some tips to know if this is a marking issue include: The dog is not fixed. Marking is much more common with un-neutered males and un-spayed females. The dog only urinates inside; bowel movements are done outside. The dog does not release their full bladder; typically urine is sprayed. For this, you'll want to follow guidelines to help a Yorkie stop marking in the house. See Also: Spaying and Neutering a Yorkie - The age this is done, what is involved, expected recovery time, pro and cons. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Contact Us. Small dogs can be trained to use a litter box. My personal experience shows that small dogs, once trained, actually benefit from using a litter box. Small dogs have small bladders, and the opportunity to "go whenever" is a big plus! It's also possible to train a dog to use a litter box that previously used papers or went outside. Dogs can also travel using the litterbox in other locations, and are able to use the litterbox during the day, as well as "go outside" at other times. How Do I Start? What do I Need? You'll need several items to get started. Of course, a litter box is required. I suggest a Purina dog litter box -- or get the largest cat litter box available, and cut the top off the hood. Removing the top makes it much easier for the dog to use, and for you to clean. Use very rough sandpaper or a smoothing tool i. Dogs tend to "go" more frequently than cats, and they don't bury their waste in the same way cats do. People use a variety of "filler" for litter pans. Some folks like to use newspapers or absorbent "pee pads". Others prefer commercial dog litter or cat litter, so they can scoop out and dispose of the waste easily. A few folks have voiced concern over clumping litter in the event the dog ingests it. Personally, I've used all types of filler and haven't experienced a problem with any of it. If you use dog or cat litter, buy a large size litter scoop, it will work best! A 3 to 5 gallon size can works perfectly. I also use a standard diaper pail lined with a plastic bag in my dog room. Whenever the "step-on" pail is full, I empty the can into the diaper pail. This saves a lot of time, and my trips to empty waste are infrequent. Best of all, the diaper pail is designed to contain odors! Cleaning Supplies Are Essential! Most importantly, be sure to have plenty of cleaning supplies. Brooms and easy-to-use mops should be nearby. Lots of paper towels especially at the beginning should be kept on hand. I also find a Dust Buster hand vacuum makes it easy to clean up the sand and litter that inevitably gets kicked around. Bleach is a great odor mask, and putting some in a small container make sure it is completely out of the reach of the dogs goes a long way in odor control. Other odor controls such as candles, sprays and plug-ins can also work well. In general, if you just keep the area clean, odor won't be a big problem. Accidents Can and Do Happen.Be prepared for accidents when house and litterbox training. If you do not completely clean urine stains, they will become a reoccurring spot the dog will use. I've had great success with a product called Simple Solution. During the early stages, I purchased it by the gallon jug. I found no other product that worked as well -- even on my near-white carpet! I also purchased a small home carpet cleaning machine, but the "blot and dry" method described in the product directions will work as well it just takes longer. As with most tasks, there's more than one method to accomplish your goal. I have successfully trained dogs to use a litter box by using two methods: The first method is a gradual paper to litter box method. This method works well with dogs who are already solidly paper trained, and who tend to catch on quickly. The second method is a variation of the common "crate training" used to house train dogs. From experience, I think the latter crate style training is best. Some people find crate training to be drastic -- but it does work, and if done properly with lots of attention, care and praise for the dog -- it isn't harmful. If you're starting from scratch, you'll need to work with the dog very closely, and have your cleaning supplies even closer! The best method for housetraining is to design the environment so that it is difficult for the dog to fail. Your dog wants to please you, and you can help him or her succeed! Obviously, a tiled or easy to clean floor area is best. During the first few days, you will need to constantly monitor the dog when it is not in its bathroom area. In this initial period, the dog should have only two location options: either with you, or a direct path to his bathroom area. You can accomplish this by shutting doors, and using simple gating materials such as latex lattice, child gates, or even pieces of cardboard. In any event, make sure that the dog can ONLY go to his designated area when "caught in the act". Make sure there is a direct path between you and his bathroom only no open side rooms at all times. During the first few days the dog should either be with you, or in his area. If you are unable to watch the dog carefully, put the dog in his bathroom or crate area. If you notice actions such as circling or sniffing usually indicating the dog has "to go" , then encourage the dog to go to his area to do his business on papers. Develop a key word or key phrase for this action. It can be anything you want such as: "go pee", "get busy", "use the box", etc. Repeat the word or phrase often at the spot where the dog should do his business. All the World is a Stage.If you catch the dog in the act of going in wrong place, you need to "shock" the dog. A loud "NO! In any event, his direct path, his destination must be his bathroom area. Once there, start praising the dog and using the keyword. Soak a small bit of the dog's urine in a paper towel or newspaper and put in his bathroom area. If your dog smells his feces or urine in his bathroom area, he will be more likely to use that area. Clean any "accident" areas to an extreme degree. A dog's sense of smell is incredible. I "over-treat" using Simple Solution cleaner. After all the smells and stains are gone to my nose and eyes , I reapply the solution. It works! Of course my mother doesn't agree -- she swears by Woolite Carpet Cleaner apparently a special version for "pet accidents". In any case, get a product that works for you! When the dog goes to the right place to use the bathroom, you need to lavish praise and treats on him, all the time repeating the key word. Frankly, it works best if you overact when expressing your pleasure or displeasure. If by chance you see the dog in the act going on the papers or later in the litterbox , you simply have to be beside yourself with joy and happiness! Believe me, the dog will catch on when you are dancing, praising, and kissing his little head when he goes in the right place! Help the Dog Become Accustomed to the Litter box With either method "paper to litter box" or "crate style training" you'll need to get the dog accustomed to the litter box. It should be in his area from the beginning, with a tiny bit of litter in the bottom and some newspaper inside of it. Newspaper should also be put right next to the litter box if paper training. Some folks have reported better results by adding a one of the commercial "potty aid" liquids in the litter box during the early stages of training. At the outset, you'll need to get the dog used to simply getting in and out of the box. This can made into a fun experience for the dog. Simply lift and place the dog in the litter box and use the key phrase like "use the box". Praise him and be happy. He'll likely get out of the box. Repeat the "praise and happy" routine and even give a little treat. If the dog stresses or tires of the game, just stop. Repeat it another time or day. Soon, you'll be able to repeat the keyword, while gently guiding the dog in the box from outside the box. After a few sessions, you should be able to have dog go in the box on his own when the keyword is used. Placement of the box is also important. It must be next to the newspapers, and the open side should minimize "fallout". Dogs have a digging instinct. I haven't met a dog yet that won't try at least once to dig his way under the litter box! Notice the top picture on this page. See how the litter boxes face toward each other and a wall? This minimizes clean up in the event of digging episode! It looks like a tight spot, but honestly, the small dogs don't have any problem getting in and out. A well-arranged litter box will minimize the "fallout" from a digging episode or normal tracking. Progressing from Paper to Litter box If your dog is solidly paper-trained, you can make a gentle progression from paper to litter box. As I said before, the "crate style" training works best, but some people prefer a more gentle approach. I've used both of these methods successfully. The key for the "paper to litter box" method is to make it very gradual. You'll need a supply of cardboard boxes in various sizes. You can sometimes get these from grocery stores, a moving company or U-Haul store. Moving boxes work particularly well because they come in a variety of sizes. Some masking and duct tape is also useful as you change the sides and shapes. The first step is to make a flat "pan" area with the papers. You can cut out the bottom of a cardboard box and line it with papers, or get something like the washing machine pan pictured here and line it with papers. It should be a minimal "box" -- that is, simply enough side to it that it is not completely flat. This should be an easy transition for the dog. If not, start with the papers on a flat piece of cardboard, then move to a slight "pan shape" box. As time progresses, you need to change the cardboard "pan" to a "box" by gradually changing to boxes with higher sides. This needs to be done slowly, over a period of weeks. At some point, you should have a cardboard version of a VERY large cat litter box the "step up" or "step over" edge should never be higher than your real cat litter box. Next, slowly decrease the size of your "cardboard cat litter box" to be just slightly larger than your real cat litter box. At this point, put the cat litter bottom, or tray, into your cardboard box and line the bottom and sides with newspaper. Once the dog is comfortable with using that, you can clip on the plastic hood remember the top should be cut off. The key is for changes to be so gradual the dog doesn't notice. Next, slowly remove all the cardboard so the dog is using papers in the litter box. Finally, you'll need to slowly move from paper to litter. Start with a thin layer of litter in the front of the box, and paper covering almost all of the bottom of the box. Over a period of days, move to less paper and more litter covering more of the box, and slightly deeper with litter. At some point, you'll be putting a tiny piece of newspaper in the back of the box. It looks really weird, but it works! At some point, you'll be able to get rid of the paper altogether. Crate Style Training Crate style training is, in my opinion, the quickest and most effective means of litter box training. The concept is simple. Every creature has a natural aversion to soiling where it eats or sleeps. The crate style method for litter box training is similar, except than eventually, the dog will have greater freedom, even while you're away from the house. Prior to starting crate style training, you should already have the dog comfortable with the litter box, and able to hop in and out of it without fear see earlier section. The dog should also be accustomed to, or know that he is expected to use "his area" for the bathroom. Instead of just a travel kennel or cage, you make an area with a bed, food, water and the litter box. The area must be large enough for the dog to get up, turn around and lay down comfortably -- but there must be no open space for the dog to use the bathroom except the litter box. The cage material should be sturdy, and something the dog cannot jump over or hurt himself trying to escape from. Use bungee type strapping hooks to easily lash and hook your cage. It's also possible to use playpens or commercial cages. If using a pen or cage, be sure to fill any open space with plastic buckets or some other safe material that will prevent the dog from using open space in the pen or cage as a bathroom area. Once you have constructed your "crate area", place the dog in this "crate" at typical bathroom times after eating, after sleeping, etc. The dog should stay in this crate area until he uses the bathroom. Try to be nearby so you can catch the dog in the act and praise him right after he uses the box. Remember to use your key word or phrase! The crate area should also be the where the dog stays when you leave the house. When you are with the dog in the house, this crate area should be open, and part of his "direct path" to his bathroom area. If the dog uses the bedding material as his bathroom spot, change it immediately! Replace the bedding, and sprinkle bits of food on the new bedding. If there are treats frequently found on the bedding, the dog will not use it as a bathroom area! The crate training routine should continue until you see the dog use the litter box on his own. You should occasionally stay in the room with the dog at times you know he needs to go. With the crate area open, encourage him to use the litter box, repeating with the key word frequently, and praise him whenever he uses the box. Soon, you'll be walk with the dog into the room, use the keyword, and the dog will go in the litter box to do his business. Eventually, he will go there on his own. My dogs sleep in my bedroom. In the middle of the night, they will get up, go across the house to the litter box to use the bathroom -- and then come back to bed! When I leave the house, I can leave them in a small area of the house, and they use litter box! At home, they come and go as they please. Bad weather, cold weather -- it doesn't matter! Everyone is happier! What Can I Do? I've never seen the crate style method not work. Properly laid out, it simply doesn't give the dog any other choice. Check to make sure you have the area as small as possible, limiting his choices. If the dog won't go unless crated, then you'll need to spend more time teaching him to use the box -- simply reinforcing the command to get in the box, and staying with him in the room and gently guiding him in the box, repeating the keyword, and using lots of praise. Use treats as a reward for going in the box along with praise! You can eventually wean the dog away from treats and more towards praise. Remember, this process even crate training takes several weeks before the dog will reliably go in the box by itself, and several months of checking and monitoring before the dog will be fully "on his own". With every dog, there's frustration and you'll say "He just doesn't get it. He will never do this". Then, suddenly, he'll catch on! Another common problem is for some dogs to use the litter box to pee, but they'll poop outside this box or even worse, reversed. There are two factors here: First, dogs typically don't do all their business in one spot. Second, some dogs especially hound breeds sometimes need to "walk it out". That's impossible to do in a litter box. I have one dog who would happily do all his business in the box. My other dog finds it very difficult to poop in the box. Our compromise is that ALL peeing is done in the box. No exceptions. They are allowed to poop near the box, but always in "their room", on the tile, and preferably on the paper next to the box. This works well because I pick up and flush the waste with tissue, and dispose of the litter waste in pails and plastic trash bags. Also, I'll mention that I find that since converting to the Purina dog litter and box system, I've discovered not to use as much litter as the Purina folks would lead you to believe. It's actually easier and more effective to use a thin layer of pellets in the bottom of the litter box rather than the 1" to 3" deep they claim. Using that much wastes a lot of litter, plus it makes it more difficult to scoop out the "used" litter. The Big Mistakes From my own experience and in talking to others, there are some common mistakes to avoid: Be consistent. Pick the dog's area or spot and stick with it. Use the same keyword or phrase. Stay with one brand of litter. Keep a routine as much as possible. Any change must be very gradual. Watch the dog constantly during the first two weeks. If the dog is not beside you with you watching him, he should be in his crate area. There must be a direct path between you and the dog's bathroom area at all times. A single "uncaught" act of peeing or pooping in the wrong place will set you back nearly to the beginning. Never hit, beat or "grind" the dog's nose into the "accident". It will be a mistake your dog will never forget, and you will always regret. Keep the litter box clean. Regularly go into the litter box or boxes and dispose of all the waste. At least once a month, empty out the box and wash it out with soap and water. The dog won't want to use a nasty box. Always deal with relapses or accidents. Once the dog begins to use the litter box, you'll provide more freedom. Then, he or she will have an accident -- or simply decide to start using a different spot. NEVER let this go without dealing with situation. Immediately start the routine again, including crating, if necessary. If you don't deal with a relapse, the dog will revert to going anywhere and everywhere in the house. I disagree with the "experts" in one area: Every book and article I've read says that if the dog has an "accident", he can't make an association between the accident and a rebuke after the fact. In my experience, this isn't entirely true. If my dog has "an accident", I let him come to the spot and I quietly stand slightly away. When the dog inevitably starts to sniff the spot, I give him a sharp "NO! It makes a difference. They do make a connection. Understand, it's not a matter of yelling, screaming, or punishing the dog. Use common sense. If your dog acts confused and bewildered at this type of correction -- don't do it. Alternative Boxes There are also additional alternatives for litter boxes. You can use large plastic bins or the top of travel crates if you need a larger space. There are companies that build and sell self-contained litterboxes to which hoses can be hooked up to flush and exit waste water. You can also build your own custom Ultimate Litter Box! Click here to see one including photos, specifications, and parts required. The End Result What can you expect? After several weeks of work, and a month or two of monitoring and frequent checking, you'll be able to let the dogs roam freely and have confidence they will use the box. You'll be able to put them in their room and go work -- knowing they're not "holding it" or worse, walking in it. You'll be able to go dinner or a movie and not have to cut short just because you know he or she has to go. This isn't an excuse to abandon the dogs -- there are few places I'd rather be than with my little buddies! It gives me freedom, and it gives them freedom. Oh, and on those cold, wet days -- we just look out the window and smile