growth chart for golden retriever puppies

Rachael Ray Nutrish is another brand I love for Labrador Retriever puppies as it is packed with DHA for healthy brain and eye development and specially formulated for young, growing dogs. You can also select different sizes and recipes. My favorite is chicken and brown rice. Bedding And Toys Lab puppies need quality bedding and toys for teething. Labrador puppies grow quickly and have sharp claws and teeth. Puppies also go through a teething phase and will need special teething toys to help soothe their sore mouths and help keep your furniture safe. As far as bedding, the best bedding for a Labrador puppy is going to be made of high quality material that is soft and plush while also being sturdy enough to keep them off the floor and support their growing bodies. KONG toys are wonderful tools to use during crate training , but they also help with separation anxiety , boredom, and the teething stage that all puppies go through. Enter the Nylabone Puppy Starter Pack. These flavored chew toys come both textured and regular to help get your pup and your furniture through the teething stage safely. Cuddly toys like the Smart PetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy above can help your new Labrador puppy adjust to sleeping on his own, assist in crate training, and may even help alleviate anxieties including noise phobias and separation anxiety. Puppy blankets are a must and can be used for multiple purposes in your home for your pup. My favorite puppy blankets are blankets that are specially made for dogs, like the Luciphia fleece blankets above. While you can use any blankets on hand, blankets that are specially made for dogs are usually a bit more durable, easier to wash, and have been made with quality and safe material for your pooch. Puppy blankets just make it easy to always a comfy place for your puppy to rest his head no matter where you are. Ultra Squeaker Ball is an absolute favorite in my house and with my clients. I especially love using this toy for puppies who are just getting the hang of playing fetch. For puppies, picking up on how to play fetch can be tough. Balls that squeak or make noise when thrown help to make the game more exciting and help encourage young pups to chase whatever is making that high pitched sound! Leashes, Harnesses, and Collars Collars, leashes, and harnesses are important tools to help socialize your puppy. Getting your puppy used to wearing a leash, harness, and collar is an important step towards socializing them. So even though your Labrador puppy will outgrow his harness and collar quickly, I still suggest investing in these items. Here are five of my favorite leash, harness, and collar products for Labrador Retriever puppies. As I mentioned above, puppies are especially fragile so steer clear of attaching a leash to their collar and try to help them adjust to wearing a harness that is comfortable. What I like about this harness is that it is adjustable so you can use it a bit longer as your puppy grows. Best of all it is the perfect length five feet for puppy training and is a leash your Lab puppy can take with him into adulthood. It is built like a standard leash, but it offers you control over how far away your puppy can get. This is excellent for puppy parents who live in busy neighborhoods or who are working with a puppy who likes to wander. Large breed puppies like Labrador Retrievers require crates that grow with them. This is why I love crates that come with dividers so that they can grow with your Lab puppy. I also recommend playpens, as Labrador puppies are notorious for being very active and energetic. Lab puppies are also incredibly curious and tend to chew a lot in their first few months, which is why indoor dog gates will also be an important part of puppy proofing your home. Take a look at some of my favorite puppy-proofing products below. Nobody likes cleaning up potty accidents. Of course, no one wants a big, bulky pen that takes up half of their home either! I also love that the pen is big enough for puppies to grow into and allows them to learn how to explore a space larger than their crate while keeping them and your home safe from their curiosity. And since crate training is such an important part of puppyhood and actually helps your puppy adjust to being alone and feeling secure, we recommend investing in a good, high quality crate you can use for years. It has two separate doors for entrance and exit and it comes with a divider so it can be adjusted to the size of your dog as he grows. Just remember to leave your pup inside his crate with a KONG and some bedding so he is comfortable, and remember that puppies who are younger than six months old should not stay in their crates for longer than four hours. For those of you who plan to leave your puppy out and about while you are gone and after he is trained, of course , then a crate that folds may be your best bet. The MidWest Foldable Dog Crate posted above is one such crate that is not only made well, but also stores well. Like most crates ideal for Labrador puppies, this crate also comes with a divider so it can grow with your dog. Along with crates and puppy playpens, you also might consider getting a gate to keep your puppy from entering places in your home that may pose a risk to him. Many of my clients keep gates up in their kitchen entryway, or gate their living rooms where puppies are tempted to chew on wood furniture. Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate Sale Buy on Amazon For those of you worried about installing something or accidentally damaging walls or paint, there are always free-standing gate options, like the Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate. I do like the way these gates look and the simplicity of them, however, they are not always the most secure and may not stand up to a strong and curious puppy. These gates are also not ideal for leaving puppies unsupervised as they can sometimes find ways to knock them down. Grooming your Labrador puppy early on not only helps to socialize him and prepare him for a life of vet visits, groomer visits, and physical contact with people, but it also helps to keep him clean and healthy. Like babies, puppies are more sensitive to certain products and require products that are specifically designed to be gentle on their sensitive skin and fur. Be selective of the shampoos, dog brushes , and other grooming products you pick for your Labrador puppy and make sure you always use high-quality products. Some of the products I recommend most for grooming a Labrador puppy are listed below. Pet Care Sciences Puppy Shampoo. Non-slip bottom dog dishes Puppies naturally move their dish around as they are eating, especially if the dish has a flat bottom that easily pushes around the floor. We have found that dishes with a non-slip bottom can help so that your puppy is not chasing around his food dish. Make sure that it is large enough. And since dogs grow fast, that means they will likely grow to that size within a year to a year and a half. Almost all dogs we train eat between 4 -6 cups of dog food a day. So, make sure that your dish is large enough to accommodate this many cups. Water dish It is vitally important that your puppy have access to clean water for drinking. With the puppies we raise, we have found that it can be challenging to keep a small water dish full, so we prefer to use these 2-gallon water dishes. They are easy to fill and allow us to only have to fill them a couple times a week instead of several times a day. We suggest that you introduce a lead to your puppy as they start to grow in confidence and walk further from you when outside. There are two great reasons to do this early on. First it teaches your puppy how to handle the pressure of not being able to go wherever they want whenever they want. And it keeps your puppy from developing a habit of running away from you. A Flexi-lead works especially well if you want to give your puppy a little more freedom to go do his potty business but still keep control. Toys Puppies need toys. If you do not give them toys that they CAN chew and play with, they will chew on your sofa leg, or a book or a blanket or anything else they can find. So, purchase some good durable puppy chew toys. But watch your pup carefully. As they get older and stronger, they will be able to rip apart cloth toys and ingest them. Or they will chew rubber toys into small pieces and eat them. When your pup gets strong enough to destroy toys, it is time to take away the puppy toys and give them only dog toys designed for older , larger dogs or quality rawhides that they can chew that will not cause digestive problems. Stay away from rope toys. Many puppies have managed to ingest strings and ropes requiring surgery to remove them. Puppy-sized bumper If your plan is for your Labrador puppy to become a hunting or competition dog, you should have a puppy sized bumper. Learn more about teaching your puppy to fetch in this post. Barriers I recommend that you section off a small portion of your home and not let your puppy have full run of the entire house. Learn more about housebreaking your Lab puppy in this post. To section off a part, it can be helpful to have some child-gates available or an area of your home that you can close doors. This means that you need to show your puppy where the boundaries are and what is and is not allowed. To do this, you will need a few more tools. This is often when we see dogs that are running away from their owners, playing keep-a-way when retrieving and just basically being naughty. A lot of this could be avoided with the use of a check cord. Yes, a check cord can be cumbersome and often a pain to use, but it only takes one or two times of your puppy running away from you to make it worth it. Put a check cord on your puppy and allow them to drag it around with them. This alone is a great lesson for a dog. Dragging the weight is a type of pressure that they will need to learn to deal with. Occasionally, step on the rope and allow your dog to feel the pressure of being stopped and controlled. These sound like such minor things, but you would be surprised how much more well-adjusted your puppy will be just from learning these minor lessons. Chain or prong collar As your puppy gets stronger, it will get more and more difficult to control your puppy with a lead just hooked up to a nylon collar. As you notice that your puppy is getting harder to control, is pulling you around or dragging you down the street, you need to move to a chain or prong collar. Actually, it would be best if you changed to a chain or prong collar long before this becomes an issue. Remember, it is always easier to fix problems when they are small rather than waiting for them to become huge problems. Larger bumpers for retrieving dogs As your dog gets larger, you will want to move away from the puppy bumper and start using regular sized retrieving bumpers. We prefer to use plastic or rubber bumpers since they do not get as dirty or smelly as the canvas ones. They also last a lot longer and can be used for both water and land retrieves. Learn all about the different bumpers used for training hunting dogs here. Orange is a color that is difficult for retrievers to see, so that color should not be used for young dogs that are just learning about retrieving and hunting. Save the orange ones for advanced dogs working on blind retrieves. Final thoughts on What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? There are many things that you will need for your new puppy both now and in the future. Take some time to prepare before you bring your puppy home so that you will avoid buying things on impulse that you may or may not need. If you are planning on using your puppy as a hunting or competition dog, check out 6 vital tools every gun dog trainer needs. You can email me at ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time happy retrieving. What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. Vet bedding fleece on a roll is ideal puppy bedding. You can line both his bed and his car crate with this. Buy several pieces so that you can pop one in the washing machine when it gets dirty or if he has an accident. There are lots of lovely beds you can get to go around the house, but in those first days veterinary bedding is an essential alternative to keep his crate cosy and clean. Puppy Toys For Labradors Puppy toys need to be sturdy. Many puppies destroy soft toys quite quickly though they are so adorable, you may not be able to resist buying one or two. Kongs and rope toys are very tough and seem to survive the onslaught of puppy teeth. A Radio If you intend your puppy to sleep alone in the kitchen from the first night, you may find it helpful to leave a radio next to his crate. Just a simple, cheap Portable Radio with the volume turned down low can serve the same role as some human company. It just helps him feel less along during those first few nights when he may be feeling very homesick. Puppy Harness There is no rush for this, but once your puppy is too heavy to carry, and going out and about on the ground, he needs some kind of safety restraint. These days I usually recommend a harness as they avoid pulling on the puppies neck. The kind where the lead attaches at the front and on the back are ideal. You can find an expert review of the big brands of harnesses, from a professional trainer here. When he is older and has learned to walk next to you, you can buy him a collar. To let your puppy know when he has done something you like. It is a really useful tool to help you teach your puppy to be quiet, and to learn simple skills. It will make training your puppy much quicker, easier and a lot more fun. Getting a recall to whistle established at an early age gets your puppy training off to a great start. I recommend the Acme Dog Whistle. There is plenty of information on the use and choice of dog whistles in this article: Should you buy a dog whistle .It will help to get you off to a great start with your new puppy.

Those breeding later generation dogs will need health tested Bernedoodles fit for breeding. The idea being to protect both the health of the dog and the general Bernedoodle breeding standards. Finally, all breeding animals will need to be extensively tested for any evidence of genetic diseases. Demand As we well know by now, when something becomes first popular and then scarce, the price can really shoot up. So location will again come into play here. Another important aspect of supply and demand will be the type of Bernedoodle you are after. First-generation dogs may very well be more widely available than later-generation ones for cost reasons. However, backcrossed dogs may be more desirable due to their higher likelihood of having a low-shed, so-called hypoallergenic coat. This is where you might need to make a few compromises between what you want vs. See Also: Click the image Size The size of the dogs can also have a significant effect on their cost for two main reasons. Firstly, while larger dogs may be more common, smaller ones are generally more desirable for many. This is often just due to how much more convenient it is to have an ity-bity rather than a larger pup about the house and how much easier people presume they are to handle. This will obviously up the price tag for littler Bernies. Also, more work goes into breeding diminutive pups from larger parents while keeping them healthy. This takes a great deal more experience and expertise from the breeder and will also be reflected in the cost. Be very cautious, though, about facilities offering teacup-sized Doods — especially ones from much larger parents such as the Bernese Mountain Dogs. Breeding pups this small could have all kinds of consequences for their health. See Also: Click the image Coat Color Aside from coat type as covered above , strangely, coat color can also significantly impact the cost of a Bernedoodle — as with any other Doodle. Generally speaking, the more colors to be found in their coat, the higher you can expect the price to be. Bernies typically have three distinct shades — black, white, and tan. This already places them in the higher price category. Aside from this, you may also be expected to pay more for Bernedoodles with rarer coat colors than their more regular counterparts. These include red and white, sable, phantom, and merle, among others. Bernies can inherit these, and even more colors besides, from their Poodle parents, who come in a veritable rainbow of hues. This is especially the case with puppies with a higher concentration of Poodle genes. See Also: Click the image Breeder Reputation Finally, with so many scam artists, puppy mills, and bad breeders around which we will take a look at in a minute , ones that have established a solid reputation in the Doodle community can just about name their price for their puppies. You know that you can trust the dogs that come from these places, not just to be happy and healthy but to have excellent temperaments too. Established breeders, with all their expertise, are usually also able to offer potential buyers a whole host of other puppy-related services too. They may have training schools , usually provide early sensory stimulation and socialization , and often can give tons of guidance for handling a new fur baby. These kinds of services are invaluable, especially for newbie owners who might not know quite what to expect from their puppy. Sadly though, bad ones are out there too. The three main types of breeding facilities you may come across out there are: Professional Breeders These are the good guys. The ones with not only the desire to improve the Bernedoodle line by breeding only the best puppies but also with the know-how to do it. They invest a great deal of money in their animals, who are loved, nurtured, and well cared for, and it clearly shows. You can usually spot these sorts of breeders from their online presence, including comprehensive business websites with plenty of details about the dogs. Backyard Breeders These are the not-quite-so-bad guys. Backyard breeders tend to be regular pet owners who decide to make a quick buck through a spot of amateur breeding. These dogs will be cheaper and of a lower quality. Puppy Mills These are definitely the bad guys. Unlike backyard breeders, puppy mills are large-scale operations that are absolutely focused on profit above all else. The facilities will be totally basic — cramped and dirty, and the food will be the cheapest possible option. Puppies from here will undoubtedly be the least expensive, but they will likely have all kinds of health and behavioral issues when you adopt them. So this is certainly something to factor into your decision. These are our top picks for Bernedoodles. See Also: Click the image Obviously, the larger your dog, the more you will be looking at. Treats can be done a little more cheaply if you opt for leftover fruits and veggies, for instance. Professional classes can be a little costly. However, these may be more necessary for newbie owners who are not so familiar with how to handle super smart or larger pups, such as the Bernedoodle. Boarding is something you will also need to think about if you are planning on taking any vacations abroad. Taking your pal along on-at-home trips may be fun, but it will likely be too stressful to get them on a plane. Related Content. I can give you some examples of how much a Bernedoodle costs from specific breeders. What Factors Affect the Price of a Bernedoodle? This means that certain puppies will end up being more expensive than others. How much does a Bernedoodle cost? Coat Color Although Bernese Mountain Dogs all have the same three colors in their distinctive pattern with a white stripe down the nose, Bernedoodle coloring is much more variable. There are four primary color profiles for Bernedoodles, each of which has a price range associated with it. Tri-Color Bernedoodle The hybrid dogs that most closely resemble purebred Bernese Mountain dogs are the most in-demand and, therefore, also the most expensive. This is clear white, rust, and jet black. Clearly defined areas with little to no blending. Instead, most of their fur is white, with large brown blotches on their body and brown fur around their eyes. Since they have such a distinctive look, these are the second most expensive Bernedoodle. Phantom Bernedoodle A Phantom Bernedoodle also has two colors, with the main color being black, usually with inconsistent brown coloring. In many ways, they resemble the look of a Rottweiler or Doberman. These are often the least expensive. Merle Bernedoodles A Merle Bernedoodle has the most inconsistent coloring, but they pull it off. They have one solid base color, but many lighter grays and browns are speckled throughout. If you look at breeders based in laces with high average salaries and a generally expensive cost of living, you can expect to pay much more for a puppy. The price drops when you take a look at regional centers like Nashville. Prices can go even higher if we start talking about the even smaller teacup and micro mini Bernedoodle sizes bred with a toy Poodle. Type of Coat There are three different types of coat that a Bernedoodle can have: curly, wavy, and straight. Dogs with curly coats ate the most expensive, those with wavy coats the second most expensive, and those with straight coats the least expensive. Watch more dog videos on the Oodle Life YouTube channel. These have the greatest chance of inheriting traits from either parent breed. The hypoallergenic coat is from the Poodle parent — so if the Bernedoodle ends up mimicking this trait expect non-shedding. If bred with a Standard Poodle these are still very large dogs. A multigen or F2 Bernedoodle can have more predictable characteristics — just look to the parents. A reputable breeder will clearly identifiy which generation your hybrid dog is. The quality breeder will have an idea of the apperance and coat type your dog will have no guarantees. A cruddy puppy mill will not have as much info on each litter. Putting it All Together All of these factors interact with one another as breeders are deciding how much to charge for their puppies. That means that puppies that combine the most desirable features will be the most expensive. Check Out Their Website The first step is to see what the online presence of a breeder looks like. Who would you pick in the Bernedoodle Vs Goldendoodle battle? Go For a Visit Unquestionably, the best way to tell whether a dog breeder is reputable is by visiting them and seeing how they operate. Issues like a lack of cleanliness, knowledge, or care can bring about adverse outcomes for a Bernedoodle pup in the long run. Adopting from a Bernedoodles Rescue? You will be hard pressed to find a Bernedoodle puppy in an adoption centre or Bernedoodle rescue. They are too in demand and rare. The best bet is to follow the groups listed in our Cockapoo rescue guide. These Poodle mix rescues are where you would be most likely to find a rare Berendoodle rescue. Pro tip: Join local and statewide Bernedoodle dog owner groups. Put your name out there as an option for a belived Bernedoodle that needs rehoming for a reason typically it is size and when owners are forced to move to small quarters or a city. Summing Up Buying a dog is a big decision and a big responsibility. When it comes to Bernedoodles, the newness of the breed, runaway popularity, and comparative lack of options mean that the breed is very expensive. Just how picky you are with what you want yourmmixed breed puppy to look like will significantly impact the price. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Do Bernedoodles make good pets? What is the cost of a Bernedoodle? Although there is a crossbreed dog between the Bernese Mountain Dog and the Poodle, but he is one of the most expensive doodle dogs because of their high demand, multi-colored coat and its friendly nature. What is the Cost to adopt a Bernedoodle? The cost of a Benredoodle is going to be a lot more affordable if you want to adopt. Note that the adoption fee usually includes some basics things, like routine vet care, vaccinations, and microchipping. In fact, your adoption rate will help the rescue center at their own expense and help most dogs in need of housing. Breed-specific rescues usually take dogs of all ages. Especially if you want a puppy. However, Bernedoodle price varies considerably based on different factors. What things determine the Price of a Bernedoodle? Like humans, every Bernedoodle is different. Demand for this Canine has grown significantly as a result of cute look, coat colors, calm nature and its hypoallergenic qualities. Coat Color The Bernedoodle coat has a lot of color combinations and the price varies depending on how many unique colors you want. For example, a tri-colored Bernedoodle, a parti Bernedoodle, a Phantom Bernedoodle or a Merle Bernedoodle is more expensive than a one- or two-color Bernedoodle. Demand Currently, the Bernedoodle is the third most rising crossbreed after the Golden Doodle and Labradoodle. Dog breeders cannot breed more dogs because it can damage the reputation of their business and the health of their dogs also. Instead, they increase the overall price of the Bernedoodle puppy. This is an important cause that increases the Bernedoodle price. If you get puppy from trust worthy breeder. A breeder will do several health checks to maintain the quality of their Bernedoodle puppies. Every trusted dog breeder will perform a health check on their adult dogs to maintain healthy hips, joints, hearts, patella, as well as eyes. If you want to buy a Bernedoodle puppy, you need to make sure you are buying one from a trusted dog breeder. There are plenty of dog breeders at home, cheap breeders, and puppy breeders where you can get this dog at a very affordable price, But we advise you not to buy from them as it can cause a lot of health problems. Bernedoodle in California or New York usually cost you more as compared to breeders in the Midwest. This leads to an adjustment of the cost of living with the land. You can get the cheapest Bernedoodle from a breeder in the Midwest, however, you will have to spend money to bring the puppy to you. Additionally, you may find it challenging to look after their facilities, check out parent Bernedoodle and look for puppies. The Mini Bernedoodle Size group includes teacup and micro mini sizes. Bernedoodle Coat Types Bernedoodle comes in three different coats: straight, wavy or curly. The coat type determines Bernedoodle generation. In general, Bernedoodle with longer wavy or curly coats i. F1B are more expensive than straight coats i. F1 Bernedoodle. This is because wavy and curly coats are more shedding and hypoallergenic. Generation Types The generation or decoration of the parents used in the specific litter also affects the Bernedoodle price. The F1 first generation Bernedoodle is one parent is a poodle and the other parent is Bernice Mountain Dog. An F2 is a cross between two F1 dogs that are bred together. Bernedoodle cost of ownership Purchasing a bernedoodle does not only involve an initial cost but also consist of many things like the cost of feeding, medicating, and homing. The cost of grooming a bernedoodle is high, but it consists of many things like haircuts, nail trimming, hair shampoo, and ear care. Also, you should board into your doodle if you are going on a trip at some point. Toys The Bernedoodle is known for his beautiful nature and loves to play with toys! You need toys to prevent your dog from becoming bored and destructive. How much do you pay for toys in your Bernedoodle? Puppies need good quality toys, from hard rubber chewing gum to toys to keep them busy and bored. Crate Cost Whether you adopt or rescue an adult Bernodule or buy a new puppy, crate training will make both of your lives much easier when your doodle matches her new life with you. A medium for a large metal crate with a divider panel. It is recommended that you take your dog to a veterinarian once a year for a routine examination. A heart warm test should be done once a year for your dog. You should have an emergency fund for any unexpected vet visits. Pet insurance is a great way to cover emergency vet fees, so this is another cost you should consider in the list of ownership! FAQ How much does a standard Bernedoodle cost? Why do Bernedoodles cost so much? Due to high demand, Currently, the Bernedoodle is the third most rising crossbreed after the Goldendoodle and Labradoodle. Are Bernedoodles lazy? The big Bernedoodle may need a little more exercise, but the smaller ones can be very lazy, making great companions for the elderly or those with health or consciousness — they also make good apartment dogs Do Bernedoodles make good pets? Do Bernedoodles make good family pets? The answer is a resounding yes. Bernedoodles make great companions for children, and as therapy dogs, they can help to ease anxiety in children who suffer from autism and other mental handicaps. They are also good family pets because they are gentle with children as well as other family pets. Post navigation. Total Monthly Cost Dogs crossbred from Poodles and something else possess special genes, which makes them highly sought after. One such mix is the Bernedoodle , a crossbreed between the Poodle and Bernese Mountain dog. The Bernedoodle is a designer dog, and one of the most expensive pups due to its cuteness. Its appearance coupled with a friendly and calm temperament makes this hypoallergenic breed a wonderful family pet. But how much do these dogs cost, seeing as their demand is quite high? Bernedoodle puppies will also differ in price depending on characteristics like their looks such as if their coats are tri-colored, merle, parti, or phantom. Free dogs are often neglected or abused and taking them on will necessitate vet exams, deworming, flea treatment, and spaying or neutering. Coat colors: The cost of Bernedoodles will vary depending on the uniqueness of their coat colors, as some are more difficult to breed than others. Tri-colored coats are the most demanded and sought-after, followed by merle, phantom, and parti, costing more than two single or duo-colored pups. A reputable breeder is fully registered and takes pride in their puppies which they sell for a higher price. These figures can be more if there are medical vaccines, behavioral training, pet insurance, and other additional costs to consider. Several factors come into play when determining the price you may have to pay for a Bernedoodle. A new puppy requires a lot of gear. What about a small mountain of puppy chew toys? This 12 pack is perfect for active little mouths, has an awesome variety of toys, and is a terrific bargain — it even comes with an IQ treat ball! Here are a few things to consider when researching your Bernedoodle. Color and Size Coat color and size can have a big impact on the cost. Typically Bernedoodles with a tri-color coat and mini Bernadoodles are the most expensive. Generation Type The cost of the Bernedoodle can be affected by the generation or the make-up of the parents used in the specific liter. An F1 first generation Bernedoodle is one where one parent is the Poodle and the other parent is the Bernese Mountain Dog. An F2 is where two F1 dogs are bred together. Coat If the buyer requests a certain coat type, this can cost more money. Generally, expect to pay more for curly-coated dogs. Different coat types will require a slightly different approach to grooming see what I use on my Doodle dog in this article and will display differing shedding tendencies. However, I found this well-recommended book on Amazon that is actually written by someone who is intimately familiar with these dogs. New Breed The fact that Bernedoodles are a fairly new breed has added to the cost. Almost anytime something new comes out on the market, it comes with a higher price tag. This is bound to change with time, but for now, the lack of breeders is one reason these dogs are on the pricey side. When trying to produce Bernedoodles, breeders want to make sure that both parents are healthy. Bernese Mountain Dogs are prone to several health issues , and their life span is only 6 to 9 years. Therefore, it may be difficult to find many healthy Bernese Mountain Dogs, which can drive up the price. Reputable Breeders Breeders who have been in the business longer and raise only high-quality Bernedoodles tend to charge higher prices than someone new to the business. Reputable breeders go to great lengths researching their breeding stock, traveling to see them, and even import them from other countries. High-quality breeding stock can easily fetch 5-figure dollar amounts. Health Screenings Breeders invest a great deal of time and money finding and testing their breeding stock to ensure they are free from genetic disorder and disease. Maintenance Costs Female Bernese Mountain Dogs do not have a high success rate with pregnancy and often require extra care to breed and care for the puppies. They often charge higher prices because of the additional maintenance costs. Geographic Location Bernedoodles generally go for higher prices in larger cities. Therefore, it might be a little more difficult finding quality Bernedoodle breeders and you may need to be open to traveling a bit to get one. Check Their Website Not everybody has a website today, but most businesses do. Are they informative? Do they get back to you right away? What kind of support do they offer after the puppy goes home with you? Check Reviews The internet can be a wealth of good information for people looking for reviews. All you have to do is some research. Visit Their Pups How the puppies and the parents behave is often an indication of how the breeder takes care of the dogs. Bernedoodles can be stubborn dogs that require training and socialization. Are They Responsible Breeders? Responsible breeders truly love that particular breed of dog. They will want to get to know a little about the people buying their pups. If possible, always check out the place where the puppies are born and being raised. The place should be clean, and the breeder should be only breeding Bernadoodle dogs and not several other breeds, which can be an indication of a puppy mill. Knowledge Bernedoodles are a popular dog breed but still relatively new, and you may have many questions about the breed. A quality Bernedoodle breeder is not going to know everything but should be able to answer most, if not all, of your questions. Do you have to give up on your dream? Not necessarily. Check Dog Registries — Check with registries where the Bernedoodle dogs might be registered. Get References — If the breeder is a reputable and quality breeder, he will have no problems providing you with at least two references. This is where Facebook can come in handy too! Visit in person — If possible, avoid telephone conversations over the phone. Ask to meet in person at the place where the dogs are kept. Quality breeders will not only be happy to answer your questions but will expect you to want all the information you can get. Ask to see the parents — Always ask to see the parents of your pup in person. The way the parents behave says a lot about how the puppies will turn out as adults. Develop a relationship — Get to know the breeder as much as possible and develop a good relationship with them so you can always feel free to contact them with any concerns or questions you may have now or in the future. Many times, dedicated breeders are willing to lower their price if they know the dog is going to a loving home and will be well taken care of. Related Questions: What coat colors and types do Bernedoodles come in? Bernedoodles come in one of three coat types: straight, wavy, or curly. Bernedoodles come in a variety of colors , and most of them have a base or background color. The base coat may be cream, chocolate, or red, but black is the most common base coat. There are sable colored, tri-colored, and solid-colored, but the most common is the tri-color Bernedoodle. This much-talked-about term has been used more frequently since the practice of breeding and creating hybrid or designer dogs has become so popular. Hybrid vigor is used on various types of breeding, not just dogs. Among dog breeders, the term hybrid vigor is one some believe as fact and others believe as a myth. Summarizing Bernedoodle Cost… With so many dogs available today in shelters, rescues and reputable breeders, you would think that it would be easy to get a good dog for a good price. Finding a good breeder is the most important step in finding the ideal Bernedoodle at the right price. Related Posts:. Micro Bernedoodles are also called Tiny Bernedoodles. They are one of the most expensive Berendoodle sizes as they are very rare and the breeding process is very labour intensive. It takes multiple generations to consistently achieve the Micro Bernedoodle size. They are one of the most popular Bernedoodle sizes as they are more suited to city living due to their small size. They are also a very popular Bernedoodle size which is reflected in their price point. Larger sized Bernedoodles generally cost less than smaller sizes as they are very common and easier to breed. They are the most common Berendoodle coat color so they sell for the lowest average price. It is very rare to find a solid black coated Bernedoodle as the puppy would have needed to inherit a recessive gene from both the Poodle and Bernese Mountain Dog. A Blue Merle Bernedoodle originally would have had a black coat however the merle gene diluted areas to grey and white. On the other hand, a Red Merle Bernedoodle originally would have had a liver brown coat where the merle gene diluted areas to beige and white. Their coat color is slightly darker than cream with a golden tinge to it — similar to the coat of a Golden Retriever or Labrador. Phantom coats are two-toned featuring a solid background with patches of another color on the chest, sides of the muzzle, throat, legs and above their eyes. Usually Phantom Berendoodles are black and tan. They feature a two toned coat where their hairs have black tips with roots in a light color. They may also have white patches on their chest, muzzle and paws. Sable Bernedoodle via nanook. They are the most common Bernedoodle generation, making them easier to find which explains the comparatively lower prices in comparison to other generations. On average, they are more expensive than F1 Bernedoodles as they are a multigenerational which takes longer to breed. Additionally, they are more hypoallergenic than F1 Bernedoodles which is a characteristic highly sought after. They have a similar price range to F1b Bernedoodles as they are multigenerational which takes longer to breed and they are also very hypoallergenic. F2 Bernedoodle Price While it may seem logical that F2 Bernedoodles would be cheaper than first generation breeds because the health benefits of cross breeding decreases with each successive generation, F2 Bernedoodles sometimes sell for higher prices than F1 Bernedoodles as their appearance is more predictable. However breeders may also price cheaper considering that second generation is not as desireable in terms of health. They are one of the most expensive generations as the breeding process is so involved. See Also.

Standard Goldendoodles can weigh anywhere between 50 and 90 pounds. Personality The place where the Goldendoodle puppy really excels is its personality. Its breed is known for being simultaneously intelligent and adoring. A Goldendoodle puppy is very sociable, which makes them perfect animals for households with children and other animals or pets, even cats. Just like the Labradoodle, this breed requires correct socialization to ensure they get used to different sights, sounds and smells during puppyhood. This means taking your Goldendoodle to plenty of doggy-friendly parks so they can meet canine friends and introducing them to other people. Our Goldendoodle puppies for sale are fully trained Doodles, so you can focus on the fun bits, like bonding, eating food and playing. These dogs prefer to live in a house with a gated backyard where they can get regular exercise breaks. Do They Like to Play? Goldendoodle Puppy Training These clever dogs are perfect for first-time dog owners because Goldendoodles love to please and take great pride in learning new skills. Are Goldendoodles Intelligent? Both of its poodle and golden retriever parent breeds are known for their intelligence and trainability, and Goldendoodles have inherited this breed trait. This means the person training a Goldendoodle needs to be strong-willed, firm and consistent — but never harsh or aggressive. Much like a poodle, Doodles are sensitive dogs, and positive reinforcement is a must to bring out the best in them. How Obedient Are They? Goldendoodle pups adore human company, and making their pet parents happy brings them genuine satisfaction. As such, correct puppy training produces a highly obedient and loyal adult Goldendoodle. Older adults, people with disabilities and individuals with neurodevelopmental disorders can benefit significantly from the warmth and sweetness of these adorable Goldendoodle pups. Are They Easy to Train? Doodle puppies can be mischievous and cheeky, but aggression is practically unheard of. So as long as you treat them with the same gentle respect they offer, a Goldendoodle is one of the easiest dog breeds to train. Goldendoodles have loads of energy and require regular exercise to maintain a healthy weight and calm temperament. A Goldendoodle need a moderately high level of outdoor activity — usually a minimum of 30 minutes, but ideally one hour, of moderate to vigorous exercise per day will keep Goldendoodle puppies at their best. Unlike puppy mills, all good puppy and dog breeders provide a certificate that shows health clearances. At Pride and Prejudoodles, our tests cover common health conditions. As such, you have peace of mind when purchasing your new puppy from us. How Long Do Goldendoodles Live? Goldendoodles live for between 10 and 15 years. We hope you found our guide informative. Please contact us with any other questions you have about our Goldendoodle puppies for adoption. This is their 1st litter together. When full grown they will be about pounds. All puppies are adopted and raised "free range" and housebroken. They have been trained at 4 weeks to come, sit and shake for a treat. We are a small doodle breeder and own all of the adults since they were puppies. We raise our puppies with un-conditional love and attention, producing the best tempermant, cognitive development, coordination and socialization skills. Many of our adopted puppies have been therapy certified as service dogs! Click Here to reserve your pick placement for our next litter of Multi-Generation Goldendoodle Puppies. Both F3- 3rd Gen parents are my furry children. Fancy has been with us since she was 8 weeks old. Sire of the litter Falkor is 2. In fact they start going potty on their piddle pads outside of the whelping box at 3 weeks!!! We do not have many litters often about once a year as we are a "family breeder" and own all 4 of the parents. Our puppies have free roam of the puppy proofed house and are very comfortable in all kinds of surroundings. Potty training starts on the piddle pads then outside in our very large fenced backyard. Questions about Goldendoodle puppies for sale? We have answers. What is a Goldendoodle, exactly? Goldendoodles are a hybrid breed created by crossing Poodles with Golden Retrievers. The aim of the breed is to create the ultimate companion dog—one who shares all the best traits of its parent breeds and none of the negatives. Breeders have been pretty successful in that regard—Goldendoodles are exploding in popularity as the ultimate family pet. How much do Goldendoodles puppies for sale cost? Goldendoodle price varies from breeder to breeder, and depends on numerous factors like coat type and color, size, breeder experience, and more. Breeders in our network price their Goldendoodles fairly and competitively, and part of the MatchMaker process means matching you with pups within your budget. Do Goldendoodle breeders ship puppies out of state? How do you screen Goldendoodle breeders? We have strict guidelines to protect the health or your puppy and the integrity of our breeders—head on over to our Breeder Pledge for more information on what you can expect from your breeder. Why is Uptown Puppies different from other places? In a time when dishonest breeders are an epidemic, we just want to help fill your home with the pitter-patter of soft puppy footsteps. To put it simply, we love dogs as much as you do. What is a puppy mill? Puppy mill dogs are more likely to have behavior issues, to develop genetic diseases costing you thousands in extra vet bills , and to die far too soon. Are there any mini Goldendoodle puppies for sale near me? Looking for Goldendoodles for sale near me? What is the MatchMaker process? Simply put, MatchMaker is how we ensure that our customers live happy, fulfilling lives with their dogs with minimal headaches. MatchMaker takes into account your ideal puppy based on things like size, breed, temperament and more—saving you time on your puppy search and making sure you and your dog are a match made in heaven. Breeder Locations.

With high energy, this breed is not for the faint of heart. While your Mini Labradoodle will be perfectly content to snuggle up on the couch with you, he needs rigorous exercise to ensure optimal health. Thanks to their Poodle ancestry, our Mini Labradoodles are whip smart — making them a breeze to train with positive reinforcement — but this is tempered by the easygoing nature of the standard Labrador. Sociable and friendly, our Mini Labradoodles for sale get along well with other dogs — but their high energy may make them a bit too exuberant when it comes to play! Mini Labradoodle Puppies Health Considerations Every breed of dog comes with its own unique health considerations. Though generally healthy and long lived — with an average lifespan of 12 to 14 years — our Mini Labradoodle puppies for sale are no exception. This will help you quickly identify symptoms and seek immediate treatment should an issue arise. They can also be short, dense, and sometimes harsh in texture, more similar to the Labrador. Like all doodles, Mini Labradoodles come with a range of coat varieties. Some take more after their Labrador parent—with straighter coats—and others have the tight ringlets of their Poodle parent. Most will fall somewhere in between, and nearly all Mini Labradoodle puppies have coats with minimal shedding. Initially, you will need to brush your Mini Labradoodle puppy around four times a week until his coat is established — at around eight to 12 months, you can reduce this to three times a week. You can take your Mini Labradoodle pup to the groomer for a trim between two and four times a year — with many owners opting for seasonal cuts — but should wait until your pup sheds his baby fur before taking him for his first cut! Meet Mini Labradoodle Puppies for Sale. Life Span Did You Know? Second-generation crosses could include a Labradoodle and a Mini Poodle or two Mini Labradoodles as parents. This hybrid dog breed was originally developed to create smaller potential service dogs that might be a good fit for people with allergies to dog fur. With a mixed breed, you can end up with any combination of traits from the parent breeds. Often, Mini Labradoodles are smart, friendly, and sociable dogs that are highly trainable. They are often found working as service dogs and therapy dogs and living as beloved family companions. Although they are not recognized by the AKC, the Mini Labradoodle is recognized by other canine registries. A Mini Labradoodle is a combination of two friendly dog breeds that crave human affection and are always happy to have company. These dogs also tend to have playful, energetic personalities and low prey drives. Well-socialized Mini Labradoodles tend to get along well with children, other dogs, and other pets. Due to their smaller size, these dogs can be injured by accidental rough play or accidental falls, so any interactions between young kids and puppies should be closely supervised. Miniature Labradoodles will usually bark to alert you when someone is at the door, but generally are not prone to nuisance barking unless they have been trained into it. It may not be a bad idea to train your dog to stop barking early on. Well-socialized Mini Labradoodles may be initially wary of strangers, but tend to warm up quickly and will often be happy to make a new friend. Miniature Labradoodles are highly adaptable. Provided they get enough exercise, attention, and mental stimulation, they can adapt well to apartments as well as larger homes. They tend to do best in moderate climates, but can tolerate warmer or colder climates. As with any dog, they are sensitive to heat. Although they tend to have a fluffier coat, they are also smaller and may need to bundle up in some winter dog products to stay warm while out on walks in the cold. Mini Labradoodles are also very much companion breeds. They bond closely with their families and thrive on being near them, so they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. The health of the parents and good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of Mini Labradoodle puppies. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. Make sure you are asking the breeder about the health and genetic history of both parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done to help allay any concerns you may have. Miniature Labradoodles tend to be highly intelligent and eager to please. This generally makes them easy to train and a good fit for owners of all experience levels. In fact, their parent breeds are considered some of the best dog breeds for first-time owners. These dogs respond best to consistent training and positive reinforcement. Puppy training classes can ensure that owners of any experience level learn the latest training techniques and start building a strong bond with their puppy. Grooming requirements with a Mini Labradoodle can vary. On the Poodle side, you have a low-shedding, but high-maintenance, coat that needs daily brushing along with trimming and grooming every weeks. On the Lab side, you have a higher shedding coat that is more low-maintenance, requiring some weekly brushing or brushing a few times a week and intermittent bathing. Overall, Mini Labradoodles range from having a non- to low-shedding coat. They can have one coat type or the other, or a combination of both of them. So, you will want to be prepared for brushing a coat a few times a week and the possibility of more grooming needs. Regardless of coat type, there are some other general grooming tasks you can count on. Regular dental care for your dog will help prevent serious dental issues like gum disease and tooth decay later in life. This is especially important for dog breeds with floppy ears as they are more prone to developing ear infections. Miniature Labradoodles can be high-energy dogs. In general, they require daily walks plus some playtime and extra activity to be happy and healthy. Since they love to be around their family and can have an exuberant and outgoing personality, they will likely be up for more playtime if you are. This little dog may get tired more easily at times and could push themselves too far in their excitement. On the other hand, they may just keep going and going with no signs of slowing down. What is most important is making sure your Miniature Labradoodle gets enough exercise and mental stimulation. Fully-grown Mini Labradoodles usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. Miniature Labradoodles generally live for years on average. Featured Mini Labradoodle Article. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Lancaster Pennsylvania and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted. Typically Labradoodles are exceptional family pets as they are quick to love their people and are exciting playmates for older children. Be extra alert, however, when the Labradoodle is sharing space with a toddler. A simple swish of their tail could soon send a little person toppling. Labradoodle puppies love a good friend and enjoy time spent with family. As Labradoodles mature into adulthood, be sure to keep clear who the pack leader is. Begin training early and utilize frequent praise. Always be positive with your Labradoodle and keep training fun by tossing in delicious puppy treats and favorite doggy toys. Furthermore, be proactive in socializing your Labradoodle to new sounds, smells and sights. Visit dog parks and explore the outdoors together. Or invite guests into your home to further socialize your growing pet. In addition, Labradoodles require lots of exercise. So be sure to take your growing buddy on several walks throughout each day to keep your Labradoodle healthy and in shape. Intersperse exercise with games of Frisbee in the back yard, a hike in the woods, or a run through the park. Look for a Labradoodle with parents of good personality as well as one who has been well socialized from early days. Plus, they need lots of exercise and health problems are an issue. Why you should consider Labradoodle puppies for sale: They are apartment friendly and get along well with children and other dogs. Plus, they are smart and trainable. So go ahead, grab one of these Labradoodle puppies for sale and say hello to years of exciting doggy moments. Related searches:.

How to Adopt a Failed Service Dog By Laura Mueller Laura Mueller is a well-regarded animal rescue expert and writer with nearly a decade of experience in animal advocacy. Adopting a dog that doesn't quite make it all the way through training is just one other way that you can go about providing a home for an animal in need. Many organizations source their dogs from rescue groups, and adopting them out directly is a way to keep them from going back into the shelter system. Dog Training "Dropouts" Being a service dog is a big job, and not all pups are cut out for it. The reasons are either health-related or behavior-related. Health-wise, dogs may suffer from eye issues like cataracts, joint problems, or have food or other allergies that make it difficult for them to be on top of their game at all times. Behaviorally, things like too much energy, too much friendliness with strangers, or difficulties on leash can disqualify a dog from service training. On the bright side, a dog who is unqualified for service may be the perfect pup for someone who's simply looking for a pet. Remember that service dogs are working dogs whose handlers rely on them to perform very important tasks, from guiding them through public spaces to sniffing out bombs in airports. Pets, on the other hand, have a lot less responsibility. That being said, most of these dogs do like to "work" in some way even after being adopted. So it will be good to research what your service dog "dropout" likes to do before bringing them home. How to Adopt a "Dropout" There are many national dog organizations that adopt out canines who fail to make it through training. Some of the most popular service dog organizations with adoption programs include Service Dogs Inc. The high prices are often attributed to the significant amount of training and health screening and maintenance that these pups undergo during school. Because they are being trained to do many serious and intensive tasks they need to be in near-perfect health and receive top-notch training. All of this takes time and money to do well. The intensive training and health care make them very desirable as pets, therefore, these organizations often have way more potential adopters than dogs ready to be re-homed. To find adoption requirements, visit the websites of service dog organizations you are interested in. Be sure to read all of the provided details before applying, and to become familiar with the adoption process and the associated fee. If you have any questions, just call the organization directly. Is Adopting a "Dropout" Right for You? When it comes to getting a new pet, adoption is always the right way to go. Service dog organizations invest a lot into their trainees, and the fees they charge for adoptions help them recuperate those costs. You may be limited on breeds. Dogs who are most likely to be found in service dog organizations tend to be Labs, Golden Retrievers, German shepherds, Poodles, or mixes of these breeds. As always, be sure to properly prepare for a new dog before adopting. Whether your new pup comes from a rescue group or a service dog organization, you should always stock up on what you need before they walk in the door, and be ready to take on the task of training and building your bond. Service dog "droputs" have a ton to offer the right adopters. More from The Spruce Pets. Bolt the German Shepherd has been living with his new owner, Becca, for over a year now after failing canine police school. Becca, the video's creator, had shared in the viral TikTok video that she was notified of Bolt's failure around the time and decided to adopt him as he was in need of a forever home. The heartwarming video compiles countless images of the inseparable pair at different milestones in their journey, such as Bolt's first day at Becca's house and their first walk together as owner and pup. The video has been captioned: "My soul pup. Bolt the German Shepherd failed police training and has since been adopted by Becca. To earn the coveted role of a police K-9 officer, dogs must go through months of rigorous training where their skills in searching, attacking, and tracking are fine-tuned, often working with their handler. In addition, scent discrimination training is being used to help match a potential suspect to an object such as a weapon used in a crime," according to the National Police Dog Foundation. The AKC says that not all dogs have it in them to become police K-9s, so only a select few breeds, like German Shepherds and Belgian Malinois, are usually chosen. What Do the Comments Say? Plenty of users have gushed over the close relationship between the pair. The TikTok post can be seen here. Do you have funny and adorable videos or pictures of your pet you want to share? Send them to life newsweek. Read more. Pet Keen is reader-supported. When you buy via links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no cost to you. Learn more. In order to be the best that they can possibly be at this type of work, police dogs undergo highly specialized training, which can take up to 2 years in some cases. There are various reasons for dogs not passing police training, but the main ones are nerves, medical issues, lack of drive, and surprisingly, an aversion to smooth, shiny floors — this is a common stressor among many dogs. These dogs are usually too sensitive for the rigorous training methods, may become too nervous due to an injury or incident, or they may be too aggressive toward their handler or too friendly toward strangers. It takes a special type of dog to make it through the entire training process with flying colors. In the end, almost half the dogs enrolled in training do not pass and are usually rehomed. These dogs are typically bred from high-quality stock, so females that fail may sometimes be kept by the police force for breeding. If the foster parents cannot home the dog permanently, the dogs may be rehomed directly by the police force or sent to a national rescue center to be rehomed. A few dogs may be able to be utilized in other police or military applications, depending on the reasons that they failed, but the majority are rehomed. Several rescue organizations in the United States rehome failed police dogs, including Service Dogs Inc , Freedom Service Dogs of America , and various guide dogs for the blind organizations. Image Credit: Jayme Burrows, Shutterstock Since these dogs have typically undergone highly specialized training, they can be rather pricey, and the adoption process itself is rigorous. For example, you must have a fenced yard and no intention of moving for at least 9 months, and the process itself can take months — if there is a dog available, as most of the time, there are more potential adopters than available dogs. Conclusion Police dog training is a highly rigorous and intensive process, and it takes a special dog to make it all the way through. Thankfully, these dogs always go on to good homes, but due to the rigorous application process for adoption , there are long lists of potential adopters waiting for a chance to bring one home. A Canadian expat, Nicole now lives on a lush forest property with her Kiwi husband and new baby daughter in New Zealand. She has a strong love for all animals of all shapes and sizes and particularly loves a good interspecies friendship and wants to share her animal knowledge and other experts' knowledge with pet lovers across the globe.Read more Advertisement. Donn Saylor Updated September 23, .But did you know dogs that fail police training can be adopted? Yup, even those pooches not cut out for a life of service are available for adoption by the right humans. And just because these particular canines may not be adept criminal-grabbers doesn't mean they can't still be perfect pets. Remember: they're all good dogs, whether they come from a Harry Potter animal shelter or a failed doggo police academy. Police training for dogs is an intense and complex process - just as not any person is cut out for medical school or life on the silver screen, not every dog is meant to work with police. It can be easy to forget that each dog has a singular disposition; those temperaments are naturally going to assert themselves, especially during an experience as demanding as police training. And some of those personalities basically say, "Meh. I'd rather sit in a hammock and watch butterflies. Let's take a closer look at where and how to adopt dogs that failed police training. The Application Process Is Rigorous.

They are amazing breeders, and the puppies are so beautiful and healthy. Chubba Chubba Choo is almost a 1. Jason and Michelle run a successful business with healthy pups that are loved from day one. I highly recommend them!!! His puppies are gorgeous and I promise your heart will tug at you to bring more than one home. The mama dogs were so happy, sweet, pretty and just wanted your attention. The puppies were adorable, healthy and competing for you to play with them. Not one of those dogs ignored you and didn't want to be the center of attention. You could tell they all had great personalities and were very social. Puppychase is Bulldog Heaven! I was very satisfied with the purchase of our puppy. The environment is clean, cool and does not smell. That's hard to accomplish with so many dogs. The Bulldogs are well cared for and the property shows they are a top priority. I can't imagine not being pleased with any dog from Puppychase. The only regrets I have are not being able to take more puppies and I wish I could have seen the male Bulldog in person. I didn't even think to ask. Maybe next time! I have had 3 Bulldogs from PuppyChase. Chester 13 yrs old, Henry 8, and Gus 15 wks. Chester died 2 wks ago. Jason is so knowledgeable and loves his Bulldogs. The health and personalities of his dogs are perfect! The hardest part is picking which one. He uses a flight nanny to ensure the safety of these little guys which allows families from all over U. S A to have a dog from PuppyChase. What a beautiful home and kennel he has in Georgia. Thank you Jason and Michelle! Keep up the great work with breeding English Bulldogs and giving families and experience of a lifetime of owning and loving these beautiful dogs!!! I would highly recommend. Jason and Michelle are dedicated to ensuring their pups and litters are taken care of! Their pups have the best disposition!! Exceptional customer service and will go above and beyond to accommodate your needs. New to the breed? Will definitely make our way back to PuppyChaseKennels. Lifelong Customer Support Expert advice will be a phone call away. Northern Indiana based, Bruiser Bulldogs offers purebred English Bulldog Puppies for sale to loving adopters seeking to find a higher quality English Bulldog. As English Bulldog breeders , Mitch and Erica Wysong have dedicated themselves to a lifelong journey of changing the culture and societal pressures of poor breeding practices within the English Bulldog Community. Mitch and Erica believe in producing a healthy English Bulldog puppy first and foremost. Through years of research and development, Bruiser Bulldogs is leading a new movement away from the overdone, wrinkled bulldog that has been long plagued by health problems. By embracing a healthier, more athletic look they are able to ensure that each and every English Bulldog Puppy for sale by Bruiser Bulldogs is supported by a platform of health tested, clean genetics. Upon adoption, each family that takes on the responsibility of a Bruiser Bulldog enters into an active and vibrant communal family of bulldog owners. Mitch and Erica believe it is their responsibility to provide emotional and mental support for the lifetime of each and every English Bulldog puppy they produce. To ensure the success of every adoption, Bruiser Bulldogs will always be committed to helping Bruiser Bulldog adopters care for their English Bulldogs to the best of their ability. I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. As English Bulldog Breeders, how do you breed for a healthier Bulldog? Like all things in life, breeding for health is simply a matter of priority. We are blind to many of the breed priorities that distract other bulldog breeders from improving the health of their Bulldog. We focus on health and personality and very little else. We are not interested in winning a blue ribbon in the show ring. Rather, we test for things like elongated soft palates, narrow tracheas, stenotic nares, luxation in the patellar tendons, heart defects, cherry eye, optic cilia, entropion, ect. We focus and prioritize creating healthy bloodlines, therefore our bulldogs are typically much healthier than the breed as a whole. After breeding for health, what other priorities are you focused on? Our true desire is to create the perfect family bulldog. We also believe a bulldog bred for the correct personality is essential to the family unit as well. A Bruiser Bulldog is bred for intelligence and playfulness. We want our bulldogs to be full of personality and some quirk. We believe a full personality along with a little stubbornness is the true North star of the bulldog breed and is what makes them unique among other breeds. We look for these personality traits in our adult bulldogs and continue to create bloodlines that reflect these qualities and produce high quality English Bulldogs for sale. I have been looking for English Bulldog Puppies for sale near me. Where are you located? We are located in the Northeast corner of Indiana. We just happen to be about 2. We are also about a 30 minute drive from the Michigan and Ohio state lines. Other major cities within 2. If you are looking for an English Bulldog puppy near you and happen to be in one of these areas we are certainly within close proximity. What if I am not located locally? Do you offer delivery services? A large portion of our adopters are located on the East Coast and Southern states. While many do make the drive to pickup, we also offer a delivery service to those with extremely busy schedules or limited ability to travel. We also utilize our own flight nanny for our West Coast adopters looking to have their puppy hand delivered. Whether through pickup or through delivery service, we try to be the type of bulldog breeder that is ethical and responsible to both our bulldogs and adopters. Looking for an English Bulldog puppy for sale? We have top quality English Bulldog puppies for sale from the best world renowned champion bloodlines. Offering sales and delivery of our puppies nationwide. For those who want the very best. You can trust us for your next family member. Our website has been online since .We are breeders of Bulldogs living to .We are not associated with any other breeders or resellers. All of our puppies are home raised by us from our dogs. If you are looking for a reputable breeder with top quality English Bulldog puppies for sale give us a call to help you find your perfect puppy. Our puppies are very loved and well taken care of and we want this to continue when they go to their new homes. All of our Bulldogs are bred to standard from European champion bloodlines. Buyers can call us anytime for advice and guidance after you bring your puppy home. We offer Personal hand delivery by our courier to most U. Buyers of our puppies are also welcome to fly to our nearest airport we will meet you there and you can take your puppy back home with you as a carry-on. We are approved by all. We are top rated by our puppy buyers on Facebook as well. Quality is not cheap. Our puppies are no exception. If you are price shopping you may be looking at the wrong breeder. We have a lot of time, money and effort in our dogs and their care. We want only the best at Brenglora Bulldogs. Be aware a low priced English Bulldog puppy for sale may have high veterinary costs due to health problems. Bulldogs in general have always been considered expensive compared to other breeds due to high expense of c-section births and around the clock care of newborn puppies. Also newborn Bulldog puppies can have a high mortality rate. As reputable english Bulldog breeders, we are not about the latest fad for making more money. Fads are Mini Bulldogs, non standard colors and eye color not allowed in the Bulldog breed standard. Bulldogs were meant to be as described in the breed standard not to be non standard colors or sizes. Breeding to the breed standard and protecting the Bulldog breed is why we breed Bulldogs. Understanding and using pedigrees of the best Bulldogs available and knowing what those dogs contributed to their offspring is vital to producing the best English Bulldog puppies and avoiding health problems. Carelessly bred English Bulldog puppies for sale are a dime a dozen and are most likely to have health or temperament issues. Do yourself a favor and purchase your English Bulldog puppy only from a qualified breeder not a backyard breeder or pet store. Look for Bulldog breeders that are breeding to improve the breed. These breeders are more likely to be reputable. At Brenglora Bulldogs we take pride in producing top quality English Bulldog puppies for sale to families and individuals wanting a healthy, well bred English Bulldog puppy. We will have new litters born in .Reservations being accepted now. Call us to get information for future puppy availability. Since we are not a mass producer or re-seller we do not have English Bulldog puppies for sale all of the time. The focus at Brenglora Bulldogs is more on quality and health not how many pups we can sell. Reserve your puppy from future litters to get the English Bulldog puppy you have your heart set on. With a reservation you can look at each litter until you find the puppy you fall in love with. We offer standard colors only seen in purebred Bulldogs. We usually have, Red, light fawn, or white. The fawn or darker red are usually combined with white markings. English Bulldog Puppy. Sold English Bulldog Puppies for sale from the more reputable breeders are bred to standard, vet checked, and raised in a loving environment. When it comes time to sell the puppies, the breeder carefully screens potential adopters. At Brenglora Bulldogs we are Bulldog Enthusiasts and follow these practices when planning a litter and selling our puppies. We keep a waiting list for our puppies and want to assure they get the best homes. Our English Bulldogs are all our pets and are treated as family members. The English Bulldog breeder you choose will be the best or worst decision you can make when looking at an English Bulldog puppy for sale. Pick your breeder carefully and as a result, you will be assured of the healthiest English Bulldog puppy having the least amount of issues. When you purchase a puppy from Brenglora Bulldogs, you will have lifetime advice and guidance. As far as breeding healthy Bulldogs goes we have been breeding long enough to know how long our dogs live. We have gotten feedback from puppy buyers over the years and have had many healthy Bulldogs. We breed Bulldogs that are healthy and look like a Bulldog should and have the track record to prove it. We have bred many living to .And most are relatively problem free. We have several generations in our 40 plus years breeding. Our reputation is built on the puppies we have produced with many happy puppy buyers across the U. We offer our English Bulldog puppies for sale nationwide. Check out our English Bulldog puppy videos Contact us to get on our future puppy waiting list or for more information. Nationwide sales and delivery. If you are looking for the cheapest puppy you can find please go elsewhere. The puppies are priced according to quality. You are paying for a top quality puppy and our 40 years experience with the breed. Bulldogs are not an inexpensive breed. Ours are no exception. We are very busy so we appreciate serious inquiries only. We do not have English Bulldog puppies for sale all of the time so you may be on our waiting list for a bit awaiting your English Bulldog puppy. They are well worth the wait. All rights reserved. No part of this website can be copied or transmitted in any form without written permission. Brenglora Bulldogs-Augusta, KS. We sell and deliver puppies Nationwide. Call Morgan at for specific pup identification if you are leaning towards placing an early deposit. Please check back, we update our website daily! Please see our Deposit Page and our Transportation Page for information on getting your puppy. We love the English bulldog temperament, physique and expression, I just personally like it to be about lbs. We find the smaller sizes are more buoyant and playful and, though still very heat sensitive, are better able to cope with life in general. Downsizing an AKC breed takes time. Our girls all come from long lines of lb. We not trying for 20 pounders…our goal is to have healthy, beautiful babies that consistently mature at lbs. If you see a puppy that tugs on your heartstrings please call, or go to our deposit page for more information. In the last few years it has become clear that most people would prefer their puppy to be transported using our White Glove transport or Nanny Flight transport. Today, we have requests for our Puppies from all over the country. Because of this, the majority those requesting a Sugarplum Bulldog Puppy have also requested transport to their area of the country; those in Florida, for example, cannot easily make the drive to RI. As such, the majority of our Puppies have shifted to a transport model; this gets them closer to their new forever home. Because of this, we have come to the decision, that for the well being of our Puppies and for the benefit of our new Sugarplum Bulldog owners, we have developed a transport model for our pups using our Puppy-Mobile with direct transport to the pups new Forever Home! Our Mid-Western breeding home is co-owned by Sugarplum Bulldogs, and our partner. I realize that not having a chance to play with the Pups is disappointing to some, but please understand that our team are dedicated to the highest level of care for our little Pups. We truly feel that this new model is in the best interested of our Puppies and their new homes. Please feel free to ask me any questions…. It is time to celebrate your faithful friend Available puppy We understand the need most people face when choosing a pet. We have accumulated years of experience with puppies and we understand their qualities better. We are specialized in raising English bulldog puppies and have dedicated years of studies on how to make them lovable and adorable for any family that adores puppies. You would discover we breed our litters from a very tender age, training and rendering them perfect for you. Pellentesque nec sagittis leo. Nullam a tincidunt dolor, et ornare quam. Sed ac sapien vitae magna suscipit fermentum varius et nunc. Nam ultrices fringilla accumsan. Sed hendrerit purus sit amet ex semper euismod. Phasellus faucibus lobortis magna, sed ornare dui dictum in. Suspendisse sed tristique turpis. Vestibulum aliquet turpis ex, a semper ex pellentesque sit amet. Read More Extraordinary pets As a trustworthy elite breeder-family of English bulldogs, we dedicate our lives to raise healthy, balanced, and well-mannered fur babies for future owners. We love them from the moment they are born and we genuinely care for them like family members. Read More Buy English bulldog puppies The most loveable puppy pet. Loyal and adorable to live with. Complete the family joy with our healthy and up to date with shots and vet check English bulldog puppies. Home for lovable pets and dedicated to making families happy. You wont need to do much to get them adapt to your environment. A special lotion will occasionally need to be applied to the facial and tail folds to keep them clean; soft tooth brushing with an approved toothpaste is also recommended. The English Bulldog has a lifespan of years. Character: The English Bulldog is affectionate, uncomplicated, gentle, intelligent, sensitive, and fearless. It is known for its loyalty; its happy-go-lucky attitude is in sharp contrast to its sour face. English Bulldogs are active, alert, and playful, but not unduly boisterous. Temperament: English Bulldogs enjoy mixing with other dogs and household pets. They are great with children, well behaved, adaptable, comfortable companions with an affectionate nature and even disposition Lets build a happy pupyp life together. At BigBullDogs. We offer the best service for purchasing the perfect bulldog puppies, and we have quality studs that have set us apart as the top breeders for bulldogs. Whatever it is that you need regarding these beautiful bullies, this is the right place for you. Here are the varieties we have; What You Need to Know About English Bulldogs English Bulldogs are very distinct from the other breeds of bulldogs and are the more prevalent breed. These sturdy, muscular dogs have a cute waddle walk that directly results from their short, stubby legs. The English bulldog also has a flat-looking face, dark and low set eyes, massive and broad jaws, and fleshy cheeks and lips that give it that signature pouty and droopy look. Its short neck, thick shoulders, and barrelled chest, slightly arched back make it one breed that you can easily identify anywhere. Our standard Male English bulldogs are inches and weigh an average of 50 pounds, while the Female English bulldogs weigh about 40 pounds. All our English bulldogs have the finest textured coats and healthiest skin with a variety of colour patterns. Whether you pick a male English bulldog or female English bulldog from us, you can be assured of their wonderful demeanor and gentle disposition. The AKC recognizes over dog breeds and rated the Bulldog as 2 for the best family dog breed. They are incredible family dogs but not the best watch dogs these days. The last nine decades of domestication has turned them into couch potatoes, considerably different from their original genetic breeding that made them perfect for Bull Baiting. Nevertheless they are fantastic at lying on the couch and giving you the stink eye when you disturb their rest. Quick Guide to French Bulldogs French bulldogs were named for their origin story, which says that they were a breed of English toy bulldogs and several unidentified dog breeds. They have distinct features that make them stand out against their English counterparts, such as their pointy, bat ears. French bulldogs are small, cute dogs that are very playful and perfect for being a home pet. Regardless of whether you pick the male french bulldogs or the female French bulldogs , you get a pet that is calm, attentive, attention-loving, and a partner to you and your kids. The male french bulldog is an estimated 12 inches in height and 25 pounds in weight. On the other hand, the female french bulldog is about 11 inches and 20 pounds. The male french bulldogs are usually a bit more muscular than females and have larger heads. However both are equally affectionate and super family oriented. Not to be outdone by their British Bulldog cousin, the female french bulldogs also made the Top 10 Best Family Dog breeds list in .Looking to Adopt Bulldogs? Following these recommendations will help you raise as many healthy pups as possible and make the experience as easy and enjoyable as possible for both your family and your Bullbitch. When you raise a litter, you will feel an enormous sense of having accomplished a difficult task. You will enjoy many pleasurable hours with your pups, if you also make a profit, that is fine. But go into this venture with the realization that you may do everything right and still not raise a single pup. You may be emotionally traumatized by having your favorite pup die in your hands. You may lose every dollar you spend. Do not breed your bitch unless you are sure that you or a responsible person will be available to care for the bitch when she is ready to whelp and have time to care for the pups for the first few weeks. This may even mean having someone to care for the pups for 24 hours a day. If you anticipate your bitch will be due for her boosters at about the time of her season or during her pregnancy, have her boosters given early before the time you expect her to be in season. Before she comes into season, have her checked for intestinal worms and deworm her if necessary. This is for the bitch's good. It will not keep the pups from being born with worms. They will still need to be checked and dewormed. Your bitch should be checked for heartworms within the last 12 months. She should be on heartworm prevention. There is a fairly common misconception that heartworm preventive medicine causes infertility. This is nonsense! Heartworm infestation and heartworm disease cause infertility. Heartworm prevention is an absolute necessity. We recommend either Heartgard or Interceptor monthly. Go to dog shows and compare your Bullbitch to the champions and winning dogs. Decide what your bitch's faults are. Long back, small head, narrow jaw and light bone are the most common faults. Now select a stud that does not have any of the same faults your bitch has. It is not wise to breed to a closely related dog father, brother, uncle except in very special circumstances. Breeding to a very good quality more distantly related relative grandfather, granduncle many times will produce better pups than breeding to an unrelated dog. Breed to a dog that has produced some good quality pups. A champion stud that meets the above criteria will be a better choice for stud than a non-champion. We can provide you the names of serious breeders in the San Antonio area who have proven champion Bulldog studs. See as many studs as possible and choose the one that fits your breeding purposes THE MATING On a normal heat cycle, a bitch is ready to be mated the first time about the eighth to the thirteenth day. There is a lot of variation among bitches. Breeding according to the day of heat alone is not an accurate way of catching her at the right time. Vaginal smears can determine when a bitch is ready to breed. The cells lining the vagina change types when a bitch ovulates and is ready to mate. Bring your bitch in for us to do a vaginal smear about the fourth day of heat for the first vaginal smear. Then we will tell you when she will need the vaginal smear checked again. Do not be concerned if your bitch has a bloody discharge throughout her season. This is not unusual in bullbitches. We breed on the first day the vaginal smear indicates ovulation, skip a day and breed again. If there is any doubt that these were the best days, we will skip a day and breed a third time. Particularly when breeding a bitch that has failed to conceive before, it may be best to breed more than twice. We use only artificial insemination to breed bulldogs. Artificial insemination is easier on the bitch, the dog and the person doing the breeding. When people talk about "natural breeding" of bulldogs, they are really referring to hand breeding. This involves strapping the bitch to a breeding board and physically helping the stud dog mate her. We breed only by artificial insemination, Breeding boards are not used in artificial insemination. Serious breeders who have experience artificially inseminating with their own stud are usually very capable and can do the AI at their house. After you take your bitch home after breeding, continue to keep her away from all males for at least a week. For any bitch that has failed to conceive on a previous breeding, we strongly recommend using Progesterone tests to determine the correct time to breed. This is more expensive than breeding by vaginal smears but is worth the cost. The liver during their season increases fertility, during pregnancy reduces the chance of pups with cleft palates and makes for healthier pups with bigger livers of their own. This increases their chance of surviving any neonatal problems. Either beef, pork or venison liver is fine. Cut the liver into 1 ounce pieces and freeze them five pieces to a bag. That way you can thaw out a new bag every five days and make a pound of liver last 16 days. Some bitches will not eat liver the first day. Try again tomorrow and she will eat it. Some bitches will get loose stools from liver. Stop the liver and give cottage cheese with her food until the stools firm up and then start the liver again. During pregnancy, feed your bitch a good quality food. We recommend Purina Pro-Plan. Feed adult dog food for the first four weeks of pregnancy, feed half adult and half puppy food Purina Pro-Plan Puppy the fifth week, then puppy food through the rest of pregnancy and throughout all the time the mama is nursing pups. Do not feed generic or store brand dog food. With a good quality dog food, we feed no supplements other than the liver. Do not give bone meal or any other calcium supplements. They are not needed and can be harmful. With a bitch that will relax and cooperate, we might be able to feel the fetuses in her abdomen at 3 to 4 weeks. From 4 to 7 weeks, there is a lot of fluid around the fetuses making it difficult to feel them. By 7 weeks, most pregnant bitches will be obviously showing it. Almost all bitches will have some mammary enlargement 3 to 4 weeks after their season whether they are pregnant or not. If her vulva does not decrease much in size after she is out of season, she is probably pregnant. We can x-ray the bitch anytime after 45 days after breeding to determine pregnancy. Withhold food by 8 PM the night before the x-ray and be sure she is given a chance to move her bowels before bringing for the x-ray. Let her have all the water she wants. A sonogram done at 28 days is a very accurate way to determine if she is pregnant. We can refer you to a veterinarian who can do a sonogram if you wish. Even if your bitch does not look pregnant, bring her in one week before her due date for us to examine. A large bitch with only one or two pups can hide them up under her ribs and not appear pregnant. If there is any doubt, have an x-ray taken. If her season and discharge last longer that 3 weeks, bring her back for a check-up. She might be a bitch that just has a longer than 3 week season. Or the extended discharge might indicate an infection. If any time after her season she has a vaginal discharge again, bring her back for an exam and a white blood cell count. She could be aborting pups. She could have a minor vaginal infection or a serious uterine infection. A uterine infection needs immediate attention. The Cesarean Section is scheduled 60 days after the last breeding. We will make the appointment for 8 AM. We will also schedule an appointment for a week before the Cesarean to examine her and answer any questions you have. We can also do the pre-surgery lab work at that time. While this 60 day schedule works almost every pregnancy, occasionally a bitch will start labor before the Cesarean Section appointment. If your bitch starts labor during our regular office hours, call us to let us know you are coming in and bring her to the hospital. We will do the Cesarean. If your bitch starts labor during the night, weekend or holiday when our office is closed, call one of the emergency animal hospitals and take her there for the Cesarean. When you call our regular office number, the answering machine will give you the numbers of three emergency hospitals. We do not do emergency Cesarean surgery during non-office hours. A Cesarean requires a full staff of personnel that we cannot provide during non-office hours. Labor is not nesting or passing a mucus plug. Labor is seeing her abdomen contract and seeing her push. She may pass some fluid or you may see part of a puppy. This is labor and indicates she needs her Cesarean. Bullbitches have a difficult time trying to whelp naturally for a number of reasons. The pups have large heads. The bitch has a small pelvis. A bullbitch that has any breathing difficulty can find that labor is too strenuous for her. A bitch with a large number of pups can get too tired and exhausted before she has the last one. When there are only one or two pups, they are usually larger and more difficult to deliver. Many bulldog pups die during attempts at natural whelping. They could have lived if delivered by Cesarean section. A bitch that becomes exhausted trying to whelp naturally is then not a good anesthetic risk for Cesarean section. It is better to plan for a Cesarean ahead of time rather than make it an emergency procedure. It can be scheduled at a more convenient time than 2 AM some morning. Of course, saving only one pup with the Cesarean that might have been lost free whelping pays for the Cesarean. Most bitches will start nesting a week or so before they are due to whelp. They will gather up towels or scratch in the carpet or dig a hole in the yard to make a nest. This does not mean labor is imminent. While your bitch is pregnant, she has had a mucus plug in her cervix to seal it. She will start passing this clear mucus the last week of her pregnancy. This is normal. At the appointment for the Cesareans section, bring a box full of towels to take the pups home in and a sheet to lay the bitch on in the car on the way home. The bitch will have a heavy discharge for 3 days - red, black, green, almost any color is normal. After 3 days, the discharge should be no more than a little spotting - several half-dollar size spots a day at the most. A heavy discharge after 3 days or a brownish-red tomato soup discharge with a bad odor anytime is an indication of trouble. Bring your bitch back to the hospital. If the bitch has any discharge from her surgery incision, wash it with hydrogen peroxide and dry it before nursing. If the incision is dry without a discharge, leave it alone. If the incision should gap open more than a quarter of an inch or if a lump develops under the incision, bring her back to the hospital. It is not unusual for bullbitches to lie on pups and smother them. Some bullbitches will accidentally step on a pup and kill it or badly injury it. A few bullbitches will intentionally harm pups. For these reasons, we keep our pups in a puppy box and put them with the mama only while nursing. An adult or older child must be there watching all the time the pups are with her to be sure she does not harm the pups. Of course, this is a lot of trouble and takes a lot of time. But bulldoggers have found that this is the best way to raise as many pups as possible. We use a wooden puppy box. If you anticipate raising only one litter, a cardboard box will do. Our puppy box is 32 inches long by 16 inches wide and 12 inches deep. It has a Plexiglas window in the lid. There are holes in the side that can be opened for ventilation. There is a 60 watt light in one end of the box for heat. The light has a rheostat so that the heat can be controlled and adjusted. If you use a cardboard box, you can adjust the heat by using different watt light bulbs and by moving the light closer or farther away from the box. The important thing is to have a rectangular box with the light in one end. Adjust the heat by watching where the pups stay in the box. If the pups stay right under the light, adjust the heat higher. If the pups stay in the other end of the box to get away from the heat, adjust it lower. The box temperature will need to be about 95 degrees the first week, 85 degrees the second week and 75 degrees thereafter. However, it is important to adjust the heat according to what the pups do, rather than according to the thermometer. If pups lie on a hard flat surface all the time, they will become what we call swimmers. Their chests flatten out and their legs spread out sideways. They cannot get their legs under them. When the chests flatten they start having breathing problems. To prevent swimmers, it is important for the bottom of the box to be soft and irregular. We line the bottom of our box with foam rubber egg crate mattress pad material and cover it with towels. Two alternatives to egg crate material are rubber hot water bottles half filled with air and covered with towels or to wad up newspaper into balls to fill the bottom of the box and cover with towels. The first few days the pups should nurse every 2 hours. Put an old quilt on the floor for mama to lie on. If there is any discharge from mama's Cesarean incision, wash it off with hydrogen peroxide and dry it before putting the pups down to nurse. The first few times, squeeze the nipple to get a drop of milk to come out on it and put the pup's mouth to it. Watch to be sure all the pups get attached. Be sure the big pups do not push the little pups away. Allow the bitch to lick the pups to stimulate urination and defecation and to clean them up. If the mother refuses to lick and clean pups, you must use a cotton ball dipped in warm water to stimulate elimination. Rub the pups' sides, genital area and anus with the cotton ball. Pups can not eliminate freely on their own for the first 2 to 3 weeks of their lives. Someone must stay with the bitch all the time the pups are nursing. After you can see that the pups are gaining weight and are sleeping longer than 2 hours before they awaken and cry, you can start slowly lengthening the time between feedings. If the pups are not definitely gaining weight nursing on mama, start tube feeding them. If one pup is not growing like the rest, tube feed him. Also if you tube feed, you can go a longer time between feedings than you can nursing. We will be happy to show you how and help you start tube feeding and get you the equipment you need. Tube feed Esbilac Puppy Formula. If necessary, use Similac baby formula until you can get Esbilac. If for any reason you are tube feeding the pups exclusively, do not neglect stimulating their bowel and urinary functions. Either let mama lick them or use the cotton balls. Put Esbilac in a shallow bowl or pie pan. Put a pup up to the edge and spoon a little formula up to his mouth. Some of the pups will start eating on their own right away. Others will take a few days to learn. Grind the Puppy Chow in a blender to a fine meal. At first, mix just a little ground puppy chow with the Esbilac to make a thin gruel. When all the pups are eating this, gradually make it thicker. To get as close as possible to providing complete protection for your pups from preventable diseases, follow this vaccination schedule until you place the pups in their new homes and recommend that the new owner continue this schedule: Start vaccinations canine distemper, hepatitis, coronavirus, Parainfluenza and Parvovirus at six weeks old. Repeat this combination vaccination every three weeks till the pups are sixteen weeks old. The last vaccination should also contain Leptospirosis. Rabies vaccination can be given anytime after twelve weeks. If you have pups that did not nurse on the bitch during the first 24 hours of life, start their five-in-one combination vaccine at 3 weeks of age. However the time from 6 weeks to 12 weeks is a very important age for the behavioral development of the pup. During this time the pup must have both interaction with other dogs mother and littermates and interaction with people. Therefore 8 to 10 weeks is the best time for the pups to go to their new homes. Pups that go too early to a new home that does not have another dog in it may later in life have a fear of other dogs or be aggressive to other dogs. Pups that stay with their litter too long before being placed in their new homes may have a hard time adjusting to their new home after 12 weeks of age. If any pups are not going to their new homes by 10 weeks of age, be sure to socialize them to people. Separate them from the litter and give them individual attention for at least 30 minutes every day. All pups should have some contact with children before they are 12 weeks old so they will not be afraid of children later. Of course it is important that they are not hurt by a child early in life. If I send prospective puppy buyers to you, that means that I have recommended you and your pups to the prospective buyer. It does not mean that I am recommending the prospective buyer to you. It is not my place to screen buyers for you. It is up to you to interview prospective buyers and determine which ones can be entrusted with your precious pups. Ask about other dogs in the household. Do they have a fenced in yard? Do they know bulldogs need to be inside air-conditioned dogs? Will they continue the vaccination series? Do they know bulldogs are generally more expensive to care for than other dogs? Is the prospective buyer buying a pup for himself or is he a broker that is going to resell the pup? When you know the new owner is not going to breed or show, encourage the new owner to spay or neuter their pets. Spaying females prevents mammary cancer, uterine infection and accidental pregnancies. Neutering males prevents perianal cancer, perineal hernias and prostate problems. Be sure you are satisfied that your pup is going to a loving home. Tell the new owner that if something happens that causes them to have to give up their bulldog that you will take him back or help them place him in a good home. Fill out the dam's part and send it to the American Kennel Club. They will send you individual forms for each pup to be registered. This takes two to six weeks. Toggle website search English Bulldog Puppies for Sale Looking for a furry companion that will steal your heart and become a cherished member of your family? Look no further! We have a delightful litter of English Bulldog puppies ready to find their forever homes. Perfect for: Families, individuals, and anyone seeking a loyal and loving companion Temperament: Gentle, affectionate, and great with children Health: Vet-checked, up-to-date on vaccinations, and dewormed Registration: AKC American Kennel Club registered Quality: Our puppies come from reputable breeders who prioritize the well-being and breed standards of the English Bulldog. Why choose an English Bulldog Puppy? Endearing Personalities: English Bulldogs are renowned for their lovable and friendly nature. They thrive on human companionship and are always up for snuggles and playtime. Family-Friendly: These pups are fantastic with kids, making them the perfect addition to your family. Their patient and gentle demeanor ensures a harmonious bond with children of all ages. Low Maintenance: English Bulldogs have short coats that require minimal grooming. They are not excessive shedders, making them suitable for individuals with allergies or those seeking a tidy home. Companionship: Bulldogs are incredibly loyal and devoted companions. Whether you're looking for a hiking partner or a couch buddy, these pups will be by your side, offering unconditional love. Show-Stopping Looks: With their distinctive wrinkled face, charming underbite, and sturdy build, English Bulldogs are a breed that turns heads wherever they go. Prepare to receive lots of compliments! 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We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. We put these two on our puppies from day 1 to get used to the feeling of a leash and collar. We have some more detailed information on best leashes and collars for your puppy below. I would advise against trying during the first 2 or 3 days in your home as they have enough to deal with getting used to a completely new environment and family. But by getting them used to a collar and leash at 10 weeks old, they will be comfortable wearing them by 12 weeks when you can start to walk them outside. How long will it take to get them used to a leash and collar? Some take hours, some take days, most will be comfortable by the end of 2 weeks as long as you take care to introduce them to it methodically. I have two highly informative buying guides for choosing the right size and style of leash and collar for every situation that you can find here: How to choose the right collars and how to choose the right leash. Otherwise it will be too heavy and uncomfortable. Choose a small, lightweight collar. The lighter it is, the easier it will be to get used to. Choose a wide, flat collar and not a thin round one. So get a wide flat collar, but one that is as light as you can find. Choose a collar with quick and easy to use clips and not a buckle fastening. You need to get the collar on and off as fast as possible and not have to fiddle with it. This makes the experience is as stress free as possible. Opens in new window. Be patient. It may take hours, it may take a couple of weeks, not all puppies learn at the same speed. So be patient and eventually they will get it. Try to act as though wearing a leash and collar is no big deal and is completely normal. Calm energy from you promotes calm energy in your puppy. They can become snagged on things and cause strangulation. For a puppy that constantly chews on the leash, spray it with Tabasco sauce, bitter apple or one of many other pet-safe bitter-tasting sprays available to deter their chewing. What you want to do is the first time you put it on, leave it on for just 5 minutes then remove it. Repeat this every half hour or 45 minutes for the first couple of days. Then leave it on for 10 minutes in each hour for the next day. Then 20 minutes in each hour the next day, and so on until you can leave it permanently on. By day 6 or 7 most puppies are used to their collar and comfortable wearing it for hours at a time. A puppy will learn at their own pace. To have the best chance at the quickest success, use the following tips and techniques. Any tighter than this is uncomfortable for your puppy and may even restrict their breathing. Any looser than this and they may be able to slip it off. This is why a plastic clip fastening is best as you can do it in a second. Some will remain quite calm rarely! A few will go absolutely crazy, scratch at it, roll around and make a huge fuss. You need to ignore their struggling. Just ignore all the fuss. To help combat this, you can use the power of distraction. Put the collar on before you feed your puppy one of their meals. Or put it on and then offer to play with them and their favorite toy. Also: You should only take the collar off when your puppy is calm and relaxed. Obviously you want to avoid this. So use food, training or play to distract them and get them into a calm state before you remove the collar. Then they will offer calm behavior to get it. You have to wait for calm. And you should also avoid giving treats when you take the collar off. Now, once your puppy is comfortable in a collar, you can move on to training them to get used to a leash. How To Get Your Puppy Used To A Leash ikostudio The following tips will get your puppy used to a leash and lay a great foundation to build upon for future leash training. You will learn to avoid developing bad habits that lead to pulling later on and develop good habits that help in future training. First of all, make sure your puppy is comfortable and confident wearing a collar, then in a secure and familiar room of your home you can attach a leash. As with the collar you want to almost ignore them. No encouragement, laughing or telling them off if they chew at or try to remove it. If the need arises, you can calm your puppy by using distraction. Call them over to you, ask for some obedience commands or offer them food or a toy and it will redirect their focus and attention away from the leash. Leave it laying just outside of their confinement area where they can see it but not get at it and use it as a chew toy, or place it near to their food bowl when eating so they can see it but will be too busy eating to want to play with the leash. We want them seeing the leash around to learn its nothing to fear, without being able to play with or chew on it. A good tip is to practice this from the minute you get your puppy home, a couple of weeks before ever attempting to attach the leash. Now you can start to pick up the other end. Instead, hold the leash and follow your puppy around, keeping the lead slack for them as you both go. It pays to have a pocket full of treats so if this does happen you can grab their attention and lure them toward you with a treat. You should practice this a few minutes every hour for a day or two. The first few times you lead them, have a treat in your hand or one of their favorite toys and use it to lure them around the room with you. Now put your puppy on the leash. Just encourage them your way you by calling their name and slapping your thigh. Make a HUGE fuss to make it a massive reward that they came to you. They will come eventually, just wait until they do and then praise and treat enthusiastically. Now repeat steps 1 to 4. Step 6: Repeat this exercise 5 to 10 times per session, each hour of the day and repeat for a few days until your puppy consistently moves toward you when they feel the slightest bit of pressure on the leash. This will not take long and once it is learnt it will benefit your future leash training massively! Step 2: As soon as they stop freaking out give total release of all pressure on the leash and give warm praise and a treat. This rewards them being calm. A few repetitions will teach them that outbursts get them nowhere and being calm gets the leash to slacken off and earns a treat. Step 3: Once your puppy has learnt to be calm to earn a loose leash, they have to do a bit more to earn their treat. Repeat this a few times. Step 4: Now only reward them for coming even closer. They will soon catch on to the fact that being calm and moving toward you earns praise and a treat. You can now follow the processes of stopping them pulling on the leash and leading them around the room as described earlier in this article. So try to avoid the following: Pulling on the leash yourself: This will achieve absolutely nothing. Additionally, dogs like most animals fight against restraint so when you pull, it just makes most pull harder. Also, your puppy pulls, they go forward. You pull back a bit, then eventually give in, they still go forward. So they learn your pulling is only temporary anyway and their pulling gets them where they want to go. Rushing forward to slacken the leash when your puppy pulls: This teaches the puppy that pulling works! When you snap or jerk a leash, you loosen it first, then snap it tight to startle a dog and get their attention. But when used incorrectly and too often, your puppy pulls, feels the leash go slack and then gets yanked back. Not good. We want them to think the pressure on the leash is totally released when they move toward us, so never add any back in although this is usually only a problem when using a long leash to be fair. Well, maybe this works to a degree. But by following the techniques described in this article, the process will be as stress free as possible, and you will have laid the foundations for training your puppy not to pull on the leash later, instead of them learning bad habits that you then have to break. Are you having problems getting your puppy used to his collar and leash? What techniques have your tried? Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. These tips will also help you to advance your dog so that, eventually, you can trust them to be off the leash in a safe area. Don't release your dog until they can demonstrate knowledge and obedience on the long leash and in many different settings. To begin with, walk them in the house and in the yard. Dogs learn 'contextually and by repetition'. These hints will help you to become the pack leader. Be certain that this is only reason that your dog will follow you. Make time to walk your dog Whether you walk your dog in the morning or evening will be influenced by your program. Whenever you exercise your dog, the walk should allow for 'focused time' and 'free time'. Two leashes will facilitate this. If they are under 12 months old, take some water with you. Also take a back-pack and a treat belt available on Ebay. I recommend no more than thirty minutes of walking in total for a dog under 14 months old as their growth plates are not set until this time. Be careful of overly vigorous activity, particularly if you have an older but playful dog. I don't recommend running for more than very short bursts for the same reason. Healthy hips and elbows are critical for a healthy, active and long life. Use two leashes - a long leash approx 7m and a short leash approx 1m Start your walk with the labrador pup on a short leash. The short leash will help you to direct and guide the dog. This allows you to maintain full control over your dog. Set up your walk for success. Start by getting the dog to sit or at the least be stationary and under your control. As you begin, keep your dog behind your body alignment. Be patient and encourage your dog. Do not show aggressive frustration. This will only cause confusion and fear or aggression. If your dog is not complying, stop and reset. You are the master Walking in front of your dog demonstrates that you are the master or the pack leader. You should be first out the door. The dogs should exit the compound only at your command. This is essential whether you are walking 1, 2 or more dogs. If your dog controls the pace and direction of the walk, they are the pack leader. Your dog should be beside or behind you during the walk. Dogs learn contextually The next two hints are important training essentials. Firstly, labradors learn contextually and their training in not immediately transferable to a new environment. Using the same disciplines and routines, train your dog the same way in different settings. This will entrench your expectations. Correct immediately Secondly, a labrador has about a five second retention of information. After five seconds the dog has lost any association between your assertiveness and their behaviour. If they disobey you, you must correct them within five seconds or not at all. If the dog is disobedient or simply does not understand, reset and start again. The long leash I'm a big fan of the long leash. A long leash will help you to correct bad behaviour at a distance. After a period of training with the short leash, remove it and connect the longer lead. Keep the leash in your hand, releasing it slowly and progressively. As they master this, you can back away while the dog is 'sitting and staying'. Reward your labrador pup with vigorous affection and a treat. After this, you should allow them to wander and sniff around. All this time you will keep your dog on the long leash and under your control. Be sure that the free time is less than their focus time. During the socialisation phase, 8 - 16 weeks, you will need both leashes as you expose your labrador pup to other dogs. As you walk your dog, you will come across small and large dogs that are aggressive. Walking on either leash will give your complete control. And it will ensure safety at all time. You new labrador pup has no innate road sense. Walk them, getting close to roads. Expose them to vehicles so that they do not panic. Reward your dog for good behaviour. Remember that dogs register tones and frequencies, not words. Use higher tones to affirm, reward and encourage. You approval is the greatest reward for a Labrador. Direct eye contact without high vocal affirmation will be interpreted as aggression. Use lower growling tones to reinforce disapproval. Try to avoid 'No' as a command. It is too general and therefore confusing to the dog. Always reward and reinforce obedience to specific commands. Use food treats to begin with, however you must gradually phase them out. Your vocal affirmation and affection should be your longer term goal. As your dog maintains the proper behaviour, reward them with treats. Reward your dog after the walk I recommend that you reward your labrador pup after the walk. Let them have a drink firstly then give them a portion of food that is less than a meal but more than a treat. It will not take long for your dog to anticipate the whole experience. When you appear with the leashes, they will become very enthusiastic. If you adhere to these eight hints and maintain the discipline of your training, you and your dog will value and enjoy the experience. Finally, remember to pick up after your dog. Don't go on a walk without your poop bags on hand! Find a vet you can have confidence in. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. Then you get a reality check. Walking nicely on a leash is not an instinctive behavior, and your Lab is just as likely to try and pull you in whatever direction they choose. Until they start getting into their senior years, Labs are excitable, curious, and powerful animals. Labradors are well known as strong leash pullers. But, like any desirable behavior, your dog can learn and you can teach. If your Labrador pulls like a rambunctious plow horse, read on to find out how to get back on the straight and narrow. There are times when a dog will attempt to assert itself as the leader of the pack, and some people believe that pulling is just such an attempt. The simple truth is dogs are overcome with excitement and overwhelmed with sensory input when they get outdoors, especially someplace other than their own backyard. Over stimulation Before long, your dog is so caught up in seeing, smelling, exploring and peeing, that all training goes right out the window. Even the act of pulling itself can be rewarding if your Lab likes the feeling of a little extra exercise. Freedom and autonomy in the great outdoors! Now your dog knows that pulling on the lead pays off in spades. But once the association is made between the leash and going for a walk, it becomes one of the single most exciting objects in the world! Once all four paws are on the floor or the dog is sitting; whatever your preference then move to attach the leash again. If the bad behavior continues, you back off once more. Why leather leashes? Short Practice Sessions A simple way to preserve your patience is to keep the length of your training walks to a minimum. The more time you spend with your dog pulling you along, the more likely you are to become exasperated. Nothing good will come of that for either of you. You need to be in the right frame of mind to convey reinforcement to your dog. A good idea is to choose a short route in your neighborhood, and walk it repeatedly. A familiar walk is still a pleasant one, though considerably less stimulating. Your dog will be less distracted if he sees the same things repeatedly. Burn Off Extra Energy in Advance Dogs in general, and Labradors in particular, have a lot of energy and they need to expend it in some manner. Short walks will not be enough to keep them satisfied, and they may be inclined to try to make up for it by pulling extra hard. Have an exercise session before your training walks to help combat this problem. Have some fun throwing a ball around the yard, or get in a good game of tug-of-war before heading out on the town. I always figured playing toss with a tennis ball was enough, but three things sold me with the Chuck It. You can launch the ball further with less effort. Keep Up the Pace Being a fairly large breed, your Labrador will have no trouble outpacing you without much effort. Reward Good Walking You know from your other training sessions that your Lab loves treats! When the walk is going just the way you want, offer praise and a tasty reward. Do this frequently to keep reinforcing the good behavior. And make sure they are compact and easily chewed treats that can safely be eaten on the go. When your dog starts to pull, you stop walking! If your dog is already proficient at coming when called, even when there are distractions, this may be the method for you. This technique may be difficult for smaller individuals, the elderly, or anyone with a physical disability. Ask your dog to come to you and give the sit command. At this time, resume your walk. If they continue to walk along beside you, repeat your praise word and offer another treat. Keep doing this periodically. Should they start to pull again, come to a stop and repeat the first step. When they pulls towards an object, stop as you did before. Call them back and have them sit. Again, offer the word of affirmation, but do not give a treat. Instead, walk to the item they want to inspect and have let getting to the object be the reward. Load up your pocket with treats, or carry a treat bag on your belt. Keep several in your hand at all times while walking, and replenish from your reserve. Cut them up into smaller pieces to make perfect training treats! Every few seconds, pop a treat in their mouth. Should they start to veer off or get ahead and start pulling, the walk stops. As with the previous method, call your dog back to you and get them to sit. When they do, give praise and then resume the walk, once again with the treats held in front of the nose. After a bit of uninterrupted practice, say a week or so, stop carrying treats in your hand, but have them nearby. Keep offering them frequently. Begin offering treats less frequently; start by giving a reward every 5 steps or so, and then gradually space them out over larger distances. Be aware, this method should only be used if your dog is not wearing a head halter or slip lead. The idea of this technique is to surprise your dog when they reaches the end of the leash. First, start with a verbal warning cue for your dog when they are about to run out of slack. Give praise and a reward as you continue to walk. Keep walking in the opposite direction, and praise your dog as they catch up to you. Once your Lab is back beside you, resume walking in the original direction. Repeat this step as necessary. The idea is to teach your dog that walking too far ahead and pulling leads to an unpleasant sensation, and diverts the walk away from where they want to go. Use this method if positive reinforcement is not having the desired effect. Watch for signs that your dog is under extreme duress; cringing, cowering, yelping or any other outward display of fear or pain are clear indications that this method is not working. Desist immediately and try something else. Collar Tug Like the previous method, this technique also uses a bit of negative reinforcement, and should not be used in conjunction with a slip lead, or a head halter. Again, this should only be tried if positive methods are not proving fruitful. As before, when your dog is approaching the end of the leash, administer a verbal warning. The force of the tug will depend on the size of your dog, and it may need to be repeated before you really get their attention. In the case of my own dog, his neck muscles are far too strong to make this effective, and the same may hold true for your own Lab. Exercise extreme caution with this technique. Choosing a good collar and leash will help as you teach your Lab to walk nicely. The Classic Collar Of course a traditional collar is perfectly acceptable, either with a buckle or snaps. For a selection of classic collars recommended by us, please click here. Harnesses A harness is a good option, especially for anyone who has had difficulty walking a dog using a collar. Many dogs will respond to pressure around their neck by pulling even more in the opposite direction. Pull that one out at parties and impress your friends! Head halters and no-pull harnesses can be very helpful during training. They make your dog easier to control, and discourage pulling almost entirely on their own. Be warned, though, that they should not substitute for actual training if you really want your Labrador to learn to walk on a loose leash. While your dog will walk perfectly well when using this equipment, they are unlikely to repeat this behavior with a traditional collar. Choosing a Leash Make sure you give some thought to what leash to buy. When yours truly bought his first leash, the selection was based on color and not quality, a decision I regretted when my very eager puppy snapped the leash and made a run for it! This gives enough length to give your dog a bit of freedom, but keeps it short enough for you to maintain control and have them close enough to praise and reward. Click here to see a selection of leashes as recommended by us. Things to Avoid No decent dog owner wants to hurt their dog, and yet pain-inflicting devices are all too commonly used for training. As mentioned earlier, negative reinforcement can be helpful if used cautiously and sparingly. However, to use it as your sole method for loose leash training is not acceptable. Choke and prong collars deliver strong doses of pain to a dog in order to deter them from unwanted behavior. It is extremely difficult to control the amount of pain generated during a correcting move with such a collar, and the force delivered invariably exceeds the required amount. It is our very firm belief at Labrador Training HQ and in the dog community in general that these items are cruel and barbaric. Avoid them at all costs. The good news is the repetition can be fun and rewarding. You and your dog will get plenty of exercise and quality time together, and opportunities for socialization and training , too. Labradors are strong and energetic dogs, especially in their youth. They love to get out and explore, and this desire coupled with their devotion to their owners, make loose leash training, well… a walk in the park. Get out and enjoy! Are you having trouble with your Lab pulling on leash? What have you done to help get your dog to stop pulling? Tell us your experiences in the comment section below. A very good, 4-part guide with steps to follow to train a loose leash walk. I highly recommend checking this out! You might want to try some yourself? Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. How to leash train a Labrador. Labradors can pull like trains Everywhere you go, you will see dogs on leashes. Others have a rather different style. You will see their owners, hurrying along with one arm stretched desperately out in front. A stressed hand grips an outstretched leash, and at the end of it a dog fighting for air. Front feet scrabbling at the pavement, this dog is intent on choking himself! One way to help resolve this unpleasant situation, is to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. And you can do that by waiting them out. Where you just stand still and refuse to move forwards while the lead is tight. But this can take a very long time with a determined puller. Please avoid retractable leashes. Make sure the leash is attached to a body harness , which is much safer for a strong pulling dog. Later on, your dog will not need frequent feeding to maintain his loose leash, but to begin with generosity is the key. An event marker A clicker is used to accurately tell your dog exactly when she did what you wanted her to. It is a very helpful aid in the training process. But you can equally use your voice. If you have to drive your dog to a deserted car park or quiet street so be it. A hard surface tarmac or paved is ideal is helpful as it enables the dog to quickly find and pick up the treats. How often to train your dog Set aside at least ten minutes for this training and do it at least twice a day. Three or four times a day is even better. Try not to miss a day, at least for the first week How to leash train a Labrador Take your dog to your chosen training location and attach the lead to his collar or harness Step 1: Start Set off walking forwards Step 2: Stop As soon as your dog to gets to the end of the leash this may be almost immediately , stand still Step 3: Wait Now wait for the dog to give you some attention. Drop a treat just behind you for him to collect as he reaches you. Start walking forwards Step 1 again as soon as he has gathered his treat from the ground. The dog will probably then charge past you to the end of the leash. You know what to do. STOP walking. Make like a tree. Pause, gather your thoughts. Rinse and repeat the steps from 1 through 4. Make a little kissy noise with your mouth for example. As soon as he looks at you drop a little food on the ground then turn away from him. The idea is that when he eats the food he will be in the right position just behind you, and that this position will become attractive to him. Start associating a kissy noise with food, at home, in the garden, and elsewhere. Your rewards may need to be upgraded to something more attractive and smelly. He should be hungry and eager to eat. Making progress with loose leash walking The first few sessions will be a bit boring. There will be waiting, and hanging about. Hang on in there, you need to be determined. Just focus on the fact that you have simply had enough of letting your dog drag you around. It may take three or four sessions before the dog figures out there is no point in charging past you, starts to pay you more attention, and watch where you are walking. But these occasions will become fewer and further between. And you will be able to walk longer distances and get to where you want to go, without stopping and changing direction every two seconds. All you have to do is stand firm when your dog gets it wrong, and reward him when he gets it right. You can do this. It takes a little patience, but you can do it. Introducing distractions to loose leash walking Just like any other skill you teach your dog, you need to start in a distraction free area. But there comes a point, when the dog has really grasped what you are teaching him, when you need to introduce some distractions into your training. Dogs eventually have to learn to walk past other dogs, people and the neighborhood cat, without charging about like lunatics. It helps to start with any distractions at a distance and to set up training exercises where it is easy for the dog to win because you have some control over the other participants. You can do this with friends or at a training club. Write it down At the end of each session, I suggest you make a note of how you got on. Rewarding good behavior As your dog gets better at walking on a loose lead, it becomes tempting to forget the rewards altogether. This is a sure way to see your efforts undone. Always carry a few treats on you when you are out with your dog. Reward him from time to time when he is being good. He deserves it. Before you learn how to leash train a Labrador This is a simple exercise designed to help people who are struggling with a dog that pulls them around on a lead. This is because every forward movement your dog makes on the end of a tight leash is a reward for him an reinforces the pulling behavior. There are various ways to tackle this You can drive your dog to his exercise area You can stop exercising the dog outside of your own garden whilst you train him to walk to heel You can use an anti-pull device whilst you are not training him Just remember, you can teach an old dog new tricks. And if you stay calm and patient, your Lab will get there in the end too.

What Is a Fawn Pug? The fawn Pug is a common color variant of the Pug breed. This dog has a pale coat color that has soft cream or a faint tan shade. Fawn Pugs may also have lighter or darker fur in some areas of their body. Other than its color, the fawn Pug shares most of its traits with the rest of the Pug breed. When we chase back history, there are only a few details about the fawn color. However, it was noted that Pugs are considered an ancient breed, and it was through selective breeding wherein the fawn color was developed. These brachycephalic dog breeds were standardized by the 19th century, and the fawn fur color was generally used as a foundation in shows as it gained popularity during breeding processes globally. Generally, the fawn and black fur color of Pugs are recognized as standard by reputable kennel clubs worldwide. Fawn-colored Pugs are usually seen in dog shows and movies since they are more desired by pet lovers. These Pugs also come in different varieties, such as regular fawn Pugs, apricot fawn Pugs, and silver fawn Pugs. However, they are still the same dog breed. These color varieties are just simply to describe the tinge and fur shade. Are Fawn Pugs Rare? These non-black Pugs are the most common Pugs globally. Despite them carrying recessive genes, fawn Pug puppies are about two-thirds of the Pug population. However, a particular fawn Pug variety, the silver fawn Pug, is pretty rare. They are much lighter than the regular and apricot fawn Pugs. A fawn Pug is a small breed dog with a pale tan coat color or slightly yellowish and very light cream. They also exhibit a brachycephalic head, which means that they have flat faces. Fawn-colored Pugs have wrinkled faces, a short muzzle, big prominent eyes, round heads, and non-erect ears. Their bodies are usually compact with a curly tail at the back, and their legs are short. They have masks that typically cover the muzzle and chin and extend around the eyes. This marking is highly desirable in dog shows, especially darker ones. Moreover, they have a darker brown sheen or black hairs on their backs called trace. It predominantly starts at the back of the neck down to the base of the tail. However, the trace may fade away as the fawn puppy matures. In addition, there may be slight differences between male and female Pugs. However, both genders grow to about 10 to 14 inches tall and weigh between 13 and 20 pounds. Although fawn Pug puppies already came from a tiny breed, their size and weight should not be confused with teacup Pugs that are not pedigree dogs. As mentioned above, these Pugs have varieties that have silver or apricot tones. Some kennels consider them under fawn-colored dogs, while others separate them as apricot Pugs or silver Pugs since fawn is a broad term. Pugs with apricot fawn coats have a medium cream appearance that is darker than that of a regular fawn Pug. Silver fawn Pugs have the lightest shade, and they usually appear as extremely pale silver tinge coats. They may have markings such as masks on their faces, but each purebred Pug will have unique placements of these marks. Most Pugs are also not uniformly solid in color. Some may have lighter or dark coat hues. Other rare Pug colors that are not fawn are brindle Pugs, panda Pugs, and chocolate Pugs. However, we will discuss those in other articles. A Pug puppy gets one color gene from each of its parents. Combining these two color genes will determine the coat color of the litter. A reputable breeder usually does DNA testing to achieve the desired fur color. That means the parent should be both fawn Pugs, or the black Pug being bred to the fawn Pug should carry the recessive genes for fawn Pug litter to be produced. This happens because black is a dominant color, meaning you only need one black gene to produce black Pugs, despite being bred to a fawn Pug. In the case of a fawn-colored Pug puppy, they either lighten or darken, especially in their first year of existence. As puppies, they may appear with a dirt-like appearance due to the black hairs intermingled with their light colored-fur. These hairs are called smuttiness, and they often fade as the pup grows. The same goes with the trace. In contrast, the masks of non-black Pugs tend to darken as puppies mature into adults. They generally follow the guidelines set by the Pug Dog Club. However, Pugs with non-standard Pug colors such as silver fawn, those with brindle coats, and apricot Pugs can still be registered in AKC but cannot compete in show rings. The Canadian Kennel Club recognizes three Pug colors — silver-fawn, fawn, or black. Aside from either fawn or black Pugs, the Kennel Club of the UK accepts four coat colors as a breed standard, including silver and apricot-colored dogs. For generations, the Pug breed has proven to be great companions and family pets. Fawn Pug puppies have docile, charming, playful, and affectionate personalities, making them loved by most dog lovers. An essential thing to consider is that a fawn Pug does not tolerate being left alone for long periods and is highly attached to its owners. So if you want a clingy buddy, a fawn Pug puppy is perfect for you. They are great with children and other pets, including cats. However, they still need to be socialized early to know how to behave appropriately. These fawn puppies are intelligent purebred Pugs that respond well to training and positive reinforcement. However, you may need to stand your ground at times since most Pugs are stubborn. Furthermore, they tend to be energetic, so as Pug owners, you should give them about 30 minutes of exercise to shake off stored energies and avoid destructive behavior. It is important to note that coat colors do not affect the temperament of your Pug. Female Pug: Which Is Better? The lifespan of a fawn Pug is between 11 and 14 years. They are a brachycephalic breed which makes them prone to several health problems. This makes them at risk of developing respiratory problems like laryngeal collapse and hypoplastic trachea. This can cause neurological issues, pain, weakness, and loss of bladder control. However, this can be managed by rest and anti-inflammatory medicines. Heat Stroke: Pug dogs are affected mainly by heat strokes due to their tight coats. They are sensitive to changes in temperature and do not do well in hot climates. Keeping them indoors during summer can help avoid this condition as it can be life-threatening. Many factors will surround the health of your puppies, such as acquiring them from a reputable breeder, diet, exercise, and genetics. Puppy Prices and Expenses Since the fawn color in Pugs is one of the standard colors, fawn Pugs are priced similarly to other Pugs. Adopting a fawn Pug puppy is a great option. This means you get to save money while giving a rescue pup a second chance at life. They will need essential items to transition and settle into a permanent home. Here is a list of initial expenses in owning a fawn Pug puppy: Type of Expense. What Is A Fawn Pug? A fawn Pug is a particular color of the Pug dog. This breed comes in a variety of colors which can range from black, fawn, brindle, white and etc. A fawn Pug will have a light yellowish tan color coat. That being said, each dog is unique and some will have different markings and colorations such as; Silver fawn Pugs Apricot Fawn Pugs Fawn Pugs The following are the colors of the canine coat. The fawn Pug is a comical looking dog with a stout body This dog breed has several distinctive features such as short legs, compact body, wrinkles, short muzzle, and curly tail. They are a brachycephalic dog, which basically means flat-faced, like Bulldogs and Pekingese. Pugs have prominent eyes with large round heads and soft velvety ears. This dog has a funny face, which gives off a comical expression. Their unique features are what have drawn humans to Pugs for centuries. They are the biggest dogs in the toy breed category. This is a common feature among the fawn and apricot-colored dogs. Fawn vs Apricot Pug The only difference between these breeds is the color of their coat. The fawn-colored dog is a lighter shade and may have a whitish silver tint to their fur. While the apricot-colored Pug will resemble an apricot. Here is what the fawn and apricot Pug look like side by side. The biggest difference is the color of the coat Fawn Pug Breed Overview Pugs were bred to be companion dogs, which makes them great for seniors, families, and anyone looking for a pet. Their affectionate personality has made them a very popular dog throughout the decades. In fact, this is the most popular color preferred by several dog owners everywhere. Breed Origin The Pug is one of the oldest breeds. They originated in China and date back to B. Today, they are still considered companion dogs and make great lapdogs and will be happy to binge-watch Netflix shows with you. After all, you want to ensure that this dog will fit your current lifestyle. This table will give you a quick snapshot of the fawn Pug. Fawn Pug. Can a non-standard colored pug still be registered with a kennel club? For example: the AKC recognizes two pug colors as breed standard, fawn and black. These are the colors required for a pug to be a show dog and compete in the ring. They are the breed standard. However, a non-fawn or black pug can still be AKC registered — they will just not be allowed in the show ring. Silver-fawn, apricot, and even rare and controversial colors like brindle, can be registered with the AKC and listed as an alternate color. So, if you see a non-standard colored pug listed as registered with the AKC, it is entirely possible. You can read it here. The pug breed standard is the blueprint for the breed, and the target for which breeders should aim. The Pug Dog Club of America firmly states that: All reputable breeders of pugs are not interested in the development of any color of pug other than fawn or black. The most common pug colors: Fawn Pug Fawn is the most common pug color. Their muzzle or mask, and ears, should be as black as possible. Black Pug Even though fawn is the most common color of pug, the black gene is dominant. Black pugs have a rich, dark coat, and their muzzle or mask, and ears are black too. Silver-fawn and Silver Pugs Silver-fawn is oftentimes labeled as a type of fawn. They have a shiny gray sheen to their coats and are the lightest color a pug can be. Silver-fawn pugs are pretty rare, and many who have them categorize them as fawns, instead of silver-fawns. Apricot Pugs Apricot pugs have warm undertones of orange in their coats. The hues of orange are richer and deeper in color than the common fawn coloring. They include:. Silver fawn pugs Apricot fawn pugs There are some main appearance characteristics associated with the breed and shared by most fawn pugs. These include: Fawn pugs have a distinct appearance. Their expressive facial expressions are a joy to behold, providing endless chuckles for their owners. Fawn pug appearance Short legs and a stroud body Wrinkled body and a curled tail Flat-faced with a short muzzle Large, round head and prominent eyes Soft, velvety ears Fawn pug coats Fawn pug coats can display slight variances. Most fawn pugs have a light, tan-colored coat but some have additional markings as well. These fawns are usually referred to as silver, or apricot fawn pugs. It is also quite common for fawn pugs to have a black muzzle. As for their coats, pugs shed… a lot. Try to maintain a monthly bathing routine, to clean between those wrinkles using products suitable for sensitive dogs. Fawn pug weight Pugs are prone to obesity, so keep an eye on their weight and watch their diet. Inform yourself about what you should be feeding your pug and offer your pet a well-balanced diet alongside regular gentle exercise. In reality, there is very little difference between these pooches besides their coloration. There are a few things to keep in mind, however. Popularity Both fawn and black pugs are wonderful pets. They have soft, loveable personalities and get on with people of all ages. To date, fawn pugs have proven the more popular pets. As a result, black pugs are bred less frequently and harder to find. Coloration In terms of appearance, fawn pugs are pale in color. Some fawn pugs have silver or apricot markings and others have a black muzzle. Most frequently, black pugs have a completely black coat all over but some will have white markings on their body as well. Health Both fawn and black pugs are physiologically the same. As a result, they share the same common health issues. Both tend to develop breathing difficulties, eye problems and overheating. Personality Traits and Common Behaviors in Fawn Pugs Like all pugs in general, fawns tend to have a bubbly and affectionate personality. In Latin, that means a lot in a little. And that says it all. Pugs tend to have adorable temperaments. They are fun-loving, charming, and more often than not, hilarious. These playful pooches also like to sleep a lot. So expect a tale of two halves with your little friend either bouncing around or snoozing in a comfy corner in equal measure. Their affectionate and loving nature makes pugs, and fawn pugs, wonderful companions. On the whole, pugs do not dig, chew, or bark excessively so they also make excellent companions for elderly people and safe family pets. The wheezing, snoring, heavy breathing and barking is all part of their eccentric charm. Pugs are genetically predisposed to hip dysplasia, eye problems, and breathing difficulties. Fawn pug eyes All pugs are prone to some serious eye problems. These are issues that will need treatment from a veterinarian or veterinary ophthalmologist. Dry eye is a common condition in pugs, along with dystichia , proptosis , entropion , and corneal ulcers. All of these conditions can degenerate quickly and cause your pet pain. Pug owners must be prepared to look and for these signs and take measures accordingly. Bones and joints Pugs of all colors are prone to serious problems with their bones- legs and elbows in particular. One of the most common orthopedic problems experienced by pugs is hip dysplasia, a deformity to the hip joint. Luckily, it can be treated quite easily and most dogs go on to lead a healthy, happy life. Breathing difficulties Brachycephalic syndrome is a common occurrence in pugs. Flat-faced dogs like pugs, bulldogs, and Shih Tzus are most at risk. You can prepare the following health tests for your pug if you want to have full understanding of their health condition: Hip and elbow dysplasia evaluation Patella luxation evaluation Pug dog encephalitis PDE or Necrotizing Meningoencephalitis NME Testing for pyruvate kinase deficiency and bile acids 2. Nutrition Proper diet and nutrition are important for all dogs. But pugs are a breed for whom balanced-nutrition is of utmost importance. These little pooches have a propensity to gain weight, so maintaining a healthy balanced diet, alongside exercise, is absolutely essential. Alongside their food, pugs must always be offered fresh water to avoid dehydration. For fawn pug puppies, try to divide food portions into several smaller portions per day. The puppy plan Fawn pug puppies have different nutritional needs compared to adult dogs. They require more calories and loads of nutrients to help them develop and grow. Toy breeds like pugs have a high metabolic rate and need more calories per pound than other, larger, dog breeds. Pugs are prone to obesity and have a very healthy appetite. As your puppy grows, their dietary requirements will change. In general, puppies should be given 1 ounce of food per pound of body weight. Fawn pug puppies also benefit from regular meals. Take a look at this nutrition schedule for inspiration. Regular Fawn Pugs: If you see a Pug in creamy, mild brown, or marshmallow type of color, chances are, you have seen a regular fawn Pug. Mostly the Pugs we see on social media, in movies, or in photos are regular fawns. Regular fawn Pugs have a black mask and a black muzzle, adding grace and dignity to their beautiful color. Silver Fawn Pugs: Silver color has been described as the color of moonlight. Silver fawn is a color that is not overly common in Pug dogs. The silver fawn Pugs have a shiny, silky, and smooth coat with a silver tint. Like other non-black Pugs, silver fawn Pugs have black ears and a black mask. Also, they may have markings like a thumbprint or a trace in their coat. Apricot Fawn Pugs: Apricot fawn is another rare color of Pugs. In Pugs, it refers to a specific warm shade that sets it apart from other fawn shades. Instead, they have black masks and black ears. In addition, you can see thumbprints or trace markings on their unique yellowish-orangish coat. Appearance: The Pugs, no matter what color, have a comical face. Their face is the feature that makes them Pug. They have charming flat-rounded faces with many deep wrinkles and dark bulgy eyes. They have blunt muzzles and a spiral tail. Fawn Pugs have muscular, square, and stout bodies. Though they are small, they are stocky and have symmetrical bodies. Therefore, they will roughly weigh between 13 to 18 pounds. Coat type: Fawn Pugs have short and smooth coats and never hard to touch. Pugs are a double-coated breed, but their coat is glossy, and they shed their hair like crazy. Breed standards describe the ideal characteristics of a breed. General Appearance: From whatever angle you watch, a Pug is a square-shaped dog. Then measure from the front of his chest to his rear part. Both the measurements have to be equal. Head and Skull: When you see a fawn Pug from the side, its head should appear round. On the other hand, when you see the fawn Pug from the front, its head should appear square. It is not apple-headed, and there are no indentations of a skull. Muzzle, also, has to be short, square, and not pointed upwards. The eyes of a Pug are relatively large, lustrous, and very expressive. But, at the same time, the ears are small and soft like velvet! Neck and Chest: Only a strong and thick neck can support a large and bulky head as the fawn Pugs have. So, the Pugs have a just-right neck. They need to endorse their large heads. The chest of a Pug also is broad and full. Body: Fawn Pugs are straight, sturdy, and have short legs. They have broad shoulders, a wide chest, and a leveled top line. Fawn Pugs have stiff muscles and solid legs and must look parallel to each other from the back. Colors: The fawn family will only have regular fawn, silver, or apricot shades. Each is clearly defined and subtle. However, AKC only accepts two colors, black and fawn, as the standard colors for Pugs. The muzzle, mask, ears, trace, thumb marks, or diamonds on the forehead of a Pug can be black. Gait: The legs of a Pug should never fling. Also, the path of one leg should not cross the path of the other leg. Personality: Pugs are great personalities in their short bodies. Their marvelously wrinkled faces have extraordinary charm. Though they appear to be comical, they carry themselves with great dignity. They have an even temperament, charming, playful, and a lively disposition. Pugs have no serving history; the sole purpose of breeding fawn Pugs was to develop companion dogs. However, they perform their duties pretty well. All they want is your love. And you know what? Give them love, and they will return your love with more warmth and affection. How cute! Living needs: The Pug dog is a small breed. So, if you live in a small home, condo, or apartment, the fawn Pugs are ideal pets to own. Family Compatibility: Pugs do well when they are around humans. Therefore, they make the best family pets. Fawn Pugs get along with both kids and adults. They enjoy playing, and the playtime can extend for hours. Pugs are kid-friendly, and they enjoy the company of any other pet as well. Suitable for Novice Owners or Not: Are you an inexperienced pet parent? Worry not! Pug dogs are gentle. They are eager to please their owners. But before you start supervising your Pug, make sure you and your Pug boy have developed a strong bond. Once you two bond well, your Pug will be more than happy to become your shadow. Pugs are neither talkative nor heavy barkers. However, they are very protective of their family members. Grooming Needs: Pugs, fawn or black, shed all around the year. Brushing off the loose hair daily is ideal, but if you are too busy for that, do it once a week, at least. You can bathe your Puggie once a month. Want to keep your Pug away from skin irritations? Just make sure you use a Pug-friendly shampoo. Simple as that! The lovable wrinkles and curly tail both need to be cleaned often and especially after the bath. In addition, you may use pet-safe wipes to prevent infections. The bulbous eyes of fawn Pugs need special attention while bathing. The eyes of Pugs bulge outwards. Hence, they can get chemical reactions if contacted with soaps and shampoos. Pugs are also susceptible to dental problems. To prevent periodontal diseases, you can regularly brush their teeth with dog toothpaste. It really helps! Feeding: Fawn Pugs are foodies. They love eating. They will eat everything their taste buds find pleasant. So keep a watch on their caloric consumption. As a Pug owner, you must show some restraints. Where their short stature makes them an adorable breed, it also puts their health at risk. Eating too much can make them obese. Dogs have different nutritional requirements. Many different brands prepare food rich in nutrients. Opt for any high-class dog food, or you can also feed your Pug home-cooked food. How much will your dog eat? However, for better consumption, you can divide the portion into two. Plus, your Pug would rather eat twice per day. What are Some Health Problems to be Aware of? Just like any other dog breed, the adorable fawn Pugs also have their fair share of health problems. But, with so many years of breeding, we have achieved the modern looks in Pugs. Their squished face has human-like expressions and a cute curled-up tail. No doubt, they look cute with these characteristics, but the cuteness brings some severe problems to the lovely breed. Have a look at some of the significant health problems fawn Pugs are prone to: Fawn Pug Brachycephalic Airway Syndrome: The squishy face and a relatively short skull have led Pugs to a health disorder known as Brachycephalic Airway Syndrome. About a hundred years ago, Pugs hardly had a face like they have today. But, unfortunately, their flattened nose and compressed muzzles have deformed their airway. Therefore, Pugs tend to suffer from significant health problems. Breathing Problems: In the desire to make the Pugs cuter, breeders have developed Pugs with short and squeezed noses. And this facial warping has made it hard for Pugs to breathe. The difficulty in breathing restricts their air intake. As a result, they are more likely to overheat. Due to being Brachycephalic, the Pugs are already not able to take the required amount of air. Therefore, any further restriction can cause terrible consequences. In some cases, Pugs even have to undergo surgery to live everyday life. They have been selectively bred for years to have a tail like this. It looks beautiful, but this beauty brings some curse along. Like humans, dogs, too, have a spinal column. The spinal columns of dogs extend to become their tail. When the spinal column turns into a tightly curled tail in Pugs, this can cause some problems. Like in some cases, the spinal column above the tail can also become twisted. This can be a cause of a significant neurological problem. The screwed-up tails in fawn Pugs make them more prone to this condition. As a result, their tail, if not cleaned properly, can be home to many infectious diseases. The infections can be fatal, and if it becomes the worst, your dog may need to get the tail surgically removed. Pugs are prone to some other health issues as well, and, sadly, the list is pretty long. For instance:.

Just a few months ago, your little ball of fluff was tumbling around, getting into mischief. This article will help you determine when to switch your puppy to adult dog food, how puppy and adult dog foods differ , how to select the best adult dog food, and how to transition foods smoothly to ensure that your pup is set up for a life of good health. According to AAFCO, puppy foods should be higher in protein, fat, calcium, and phosphorous than adult dog foods. These macronutrients and minerals help support lean muscle and bone growth. They also provide enough caloric density to enable the puppy to grow and perform basic bodily functions such as breathing, digestion, and movement. Many puppy food manufacturers also include higher amounts of compounds like omega-3 fatty acids to support proper brain and eye development as your puppy ages. Large-breed puppies need specially formulated puppy foods that contain less fat , calcium, and phosphorous to moderate their rate of growth. This helps prevent skeletal diseases such as elbow and hip dysplasia that can result from growing too quickly. You need to ensure that your puppy has the extra protein, fat, and minerals they need to support their growth and development and prevent various bone, joint, brain, and eye disorders. But aside from breed size, you also need to consider whether they are spayed or neutered or if they are a highly active dog that needs more calories. Breed Size Because of their faster growth rate, smaller breeds such as Chihuahuas , Yorkshire Terriers , and Pugs reach adult size sooner than larger breeds such as Golden Retrievers , German Shepherds, and Dalmatians. The guidelines below will help you to determine when to start feeding adult dog food: Small breeds under 25 pounds when fully grown reach adult size at months of age. These breeds will be ready for adult dog food at months of age. Medium-sized breeds such as English Springer Spaniels , Australian Shepherds , and Border Collies are pounds when fully grown, and they reach adult size at months of age. With growth rates between those of small breeds and large breeds, medium-sized dogs will be ready for adult dog food around months of age. Large breeds are over 50 pounds when fully grown. There are many large breed dogs, from the Boxer to the Great Dane , so the point at which these breeds reach mature size and weight can vary between 15 and 24 months of age. With the wide range of breeds under this category and a generally slower rate of growth, these dogs will need to stay on puppy food until they are months old to ensure they have enough protein and other nutrients during this stage. They also need to get those nutrients in the proper ratio to support the growth and proper development of their larger skeletons. Activity Level Athletic dogs may benefit from staying on puppy formulas longer, as the extra protein supports lean muscle growth and function, and the extra fat and higher caloric density can allow energy for high-intensity activities. Spaying or Neutering Breed size is not the only factor when determining when to transition your puppy to adult dog food. Because puppy foods contain a higher calorie density, feeding the correct amount during the remaining months of puppyhood is very important to prevent obesity as the puppy matures into an adult. Spaying or neutering does not usually slow the growth rate of your puppy, but it may affect the growth plates in the bones of large breed puppies, setting them up for joint problems later in life. In addition, unspayed female dogs who will be bred early in life may need to stay on puppy food longer to support gestation and lactation following whelping. Switching Too Early or Too Late Because the timing of switching your puppy to adult dog food is so important, there can be negative consequences from both switching too late and switching too early. Dogs that are taken off puppy food too late may be more predisposed to obesity and associated health problems later in life, given the fact that puppy formulas have more fat and calories per cup than adult dog formulas. The extra protein and calories in puppy foods can also increase the rate of growth in certain dog breeds if they are not fed a breed-specific puppy food formula. If these breeds are left on puppy formulas too long, they can be more predisposed to developing joint problems in the future. Similarly, if your puppy is taken off a puppy formula too early, they may suffer from nutritional deficiencies and growth abnormalities, failing to reach adult size around the expected time and increasing their risk of future bone, joint, brain, and eye issues. How to Pick the Right Adult Dog Food When it is time for your puppy to transition to adult dog food, how should you go about selecting the best adult formula for them as they become young adults? The young adult stage is typically considered years of age, as middle age starts by year in many dog breeds. While most dogs are generally quite healthy during this stage in their lives, feeding them appropriately during their young adult years can help lower the risk of obesity, arthritis , and dental disease as they age. Choosing a Brand The many adult dog food companies are not all equal in terms of quality. Dry Food vs. Wet Food The next step is to decide whether you would like to feed your dog dry food, wet food, or a mixture of the two. Both types of food have positive and negative aspects, and the choice to use one, the other, or both depends on the specific needs of your dog. For example, wet food: Has a higher moisture content than dry food and may be better for dogs that do not drink much water. Has a lower calorie density per volume than dry dog food, allowing dogs to feel fuller on fewer calories, which helps control their weight throughout their lives. Is often more palatable and appetizing than dry food, so it may be a great option for picky eaters or for stimulating the appetite of dogs that are less interested in food. Can be beneficial for dogs with oral abnormalities or dental disease, as it is easier for them to chew. By contrast, dry food: Can be a more economical option than wet food. Is a great option for easier portion control and for dogs that tend to graze throughout the day rather than consume a full meal in one sitting, as dry food will not spoil as rapidly if left out for long periods of time. Is beneficial for dental health, as the crunchy pieces act as an abrasive against the teeth during chewing and help prevent tartar buildup and thus tooth and gum disease. Can be easily used as a tool in puzzle toys for enrichment and mental stimulation. Is be used in slow feeders for reducing the rate at which dogs are able to consume their meals. When your pup eats more slowly, the risk is lower of them swallowing too much air and developing bloat, a potentially dangerous condition. Nutritional Requirements The final step in selecting the best adult dog food diet is to examine the Guaranteed Analysis panel on the bag or can of food and ensure that the formula meets a few major nutritional requirements. Other formulas have glucosamine for joint health or probiotics for gut health. Some dogs are sensitive to chicken and do better on beef- or salmon-based formulas. If you are unsure of the additional needs for your dog outside of the key ingredients and nutrients listed above, consult with your veterinarian. This will help ensure gut regularity with less physical activity. Remember that dog treats and other sources of calories in the diet need to be included when determining the appropriate amount of food for your young adult dog. How to Switch Your Puppy to Adult Dog Food Once you have selected the best adult dog food for your puppy, you are ready to transition them slowly onto their new diet. Because rapid diet changes can cause gastrointestinal upset in dogs, such as vomiting and diarrhea , it is recommended to introduce the new food slowly over a period of five days or so. Continue to feed your puppy as many times per day as they are used to throughout this process. If your puppy develops vomiting, diarrhea, or lack of appetite, stop feeding the adult dog food and see your veterinarian. How Often to Feed Your Dog For large-breed puppies, it may be best for them to continue to eat three times per day. For medium-breed puppies, they should continue to be fed twice daily when they have been transitioned to adult dog food. For small-breed puppies, you may consider transitioning them to eating twice daily instead of three times per day after they are fully on adult dog food. This may involve providing more attention and playtime for your dog as they become accustomed to fewer feedings per day. Consider extra walks, extra playtime, or brushing to distract them from feelings of hunger. Some dogs may benefit from high-fiber adult dog food to increase feelings of fullness between meals. Your dog may also enjoy cleaned, raw fruits and vegetables such as sliced carrots, cucumbers, or apples without the core or seeds. If you have any questions about transitioning your puppy to adult dog food, contact your veterinarian. In addition, a board-certified veterinary nutritionist can be a great resource for any issues that come up, and they can help develop the best diet and feeding schedule for your new family member. Featured image: iStock. Help us make PetMD better Was this article helpful? When should I change my German Shepherd puppy to adult food? Discover the online program that more than 57, dog owners have used to rapidly transform their dog into a well-behaved, obedient furry friend. This is a very controversial topic. I'll bet if you asked 10 dog owners this question you'd get 10 different answers. Growing puppies should only be fed a high quality puppy diet which you need to continue feeding until your dog reaches 80 to 90 percent of his anticipated adult weight. For many German Shepherd puppies, this occurs usually around 8 to 9 months of age. Keep in mind that individual German Shepherd puppies growth rates will vary greatly from dog to dog. If your puppy is growing exceptionally quickly, you might want to ask your vet about switching your GSD puppy to adult food even sooner. And how will you know if your puppy is growing faster than most, you may ask? Well, for one thing I would check with your own GSD breeder. And if you didn't get your German Shepherd puppy from a breeder, for example, if you got your puppy from a rescue organization or from a shelter or maybe some other source I would then suggest speaking with your veterinarian about your pups growth rate and when the change in diet should occur. You may wonder why you don't just start feeding your puppy adult food in just one meal or so. That's just asking for trouble. There's a really good reason for this slow transition from one type of dog food to another - to avoid upsetting your dog's intestinal tract or causing diarrhea. If you were to just drastically switch from one food to another without this transition period you will have runny poops and just overall messy poops and a puppy with an upset stomach. And this can be easily avoided by following the transition as suggested above. And for adult GSD's, I always suggest feeding a good quality dry food only. You don't need to supplement a good quality dry dog food with any type of canned food. A good dry food is an excellent choice for a growing German Shepherd in many respects and it is very beneficial to their teeth as canned foods can cause many problems with tooth decay. What puts man in a higher state of evolution is that he has got his laugh on the right end. Your puppy should have access to clean water throughout the day, but it should be taken away at night. Puppies between the ages of eight and twelve weeks benefit from being fed three or four times per day. Any changes in the amount of food a puppy consumes should be implemented gradually. A German shepherd puppy needs a lot of food between 6 and 8 months to grow into an adult. Adult food provides numerous superfluous nutrients that the puppy does not need at that time. Feed him tiny servings of puppy food per day. After a year, you can switch him to adult food. It is recommended to feed your dog as directed by the manufacturer. These instructions may vary by brand and composition. Make sure your dog stays fit. To feel the spine, ribs, and pelvic bones. A noticeable waistline is a must. German Shepherds are capable of consuming a wide variety of human meals, including beef, chicken, pig, turkey, salmon, tuna, and eggs. Fruits and vegetables such as apples, bananas, berries, carrots , peas, and pumpkins are also permitted. Additionally, you can feed your GSD additional foods such as rice and noodles, yogurt, and cheese. This procedure should take two to four weeks to finish. Supplements should be avoided since they may add too many nutrients to the diet that are already there. If you wish to provide a treat, eggs, cooked vegetables, or yogurt are excellent additives for improved digestion or flavor variation. Although it is natural for young German shepherd pups to be hungry, persistent hunger should be a matter of concern. Worms can make your dog be ever hungry. Carol is a paw parent, and her love for dogs started when she was just 5. She adores her two German Shepherds and a Bengal cat, who she says, "life would be incomplete without" Recent Posts. Time Zones puppy feeding schedule and recomendation Prior to weaning our German shepherd puppies, they would have obtain most of their nutritional needs from their mother's milk. By the time our puppies are ready to move into their new home, they will be fully weaned on to solid foods. The puppy is then entirely dependent on his new owner, to provide a fully balanced diet that will meet all of his nutritional requirements. All puppies thrive on the same basic nutrients as adult dogs, but due to their rapid growth rate, these nutrients are needed in proportionately larger quantities. Similar to human babies, puppies have small stomachs, so they need to be fed little portions but often. German shepherd puppies grow very rapidly in the early stages of their development. A German shepherd dog will reach about half their adult weight by five or six months of age. However, there is a wide variation in adult body weight between different breeds, and dogs mature at different rates, since this article is focus on the German shepherd puppy, we will focus at that. German shepherd puppies, in particular, which are most affected by the feeding regimen - as they are growing rapidly, these puppies are prone to disturbances in their skeletal development. It is unwise to overfeed such dogs at this stage in an attempt to obtain the maximum possible rate of growth. A puppy needs between two and four times as much energy as an adult of the same size - growing is an energetic business! They must have more protein than adults - this must contain all the right building blocks of the protein amino acids for growth, and they need just the right amount of minerals for healthy bones and teeth. Puppies therefore have to eat large amounts of food in relation to their body weight, but their stomachs have only a small capacity. To compensate for this, a puppy needs to be fed several small meals a day. It also helps if his diet is designed to meet a number of useful criteria: the food should be concentrated to ensure an adequate intake of nutrients before his stomach is full; The food should be easily digested to maximize its nutritive value; the diet must be balanced to provide the right amount of nutrients to meet the puppy's particular needs; and it should also be tasty so that he will eat it. Devising an acceptable nutritionally balanced diet for growth is thus a very complex exercise. Fortunately, feeding your puppy need not be as complicated as it sounds. Diets, which are specially formulated for growth, take all the guesswork out of rearing a healthy puppy and provide a balanced and concentrated diet, which he will enjoy and thrive. For a normal, healthy German shepherd puppy there is no need to use supplements. In some ways this could be harmful. If you do decide to use a supplement please consult your veterinarian. The feeding schedule of your puppy will depend greatly on his age and individual characteristics, until they are about four months old. Feeding can then be reduced to two times a day until six months of age. You can offer your puppy his daily food allowance in two separate meals. You can feed an adult diet from 14 months of age Since all puppies are individuals, some may need more and some less than the indicated amounts. Your puppy's condition is the best guide of whether you are feeding the correct amount. By recording his weight on a regular basis you will be able to check his growing at a healthy rate, appropriate to his breed. You can then make adjustments to avoid him becoming under - or overweight. Generally, a puppy should be allowed 10 to 15 minutes to eat at each mealtime. After then discard any uneaten food. Your puppy should have his own feeding and water bowls and should be kept clean, separate from the family's dishes. Provide fresh water daily If you notice that your puppy is excessively thirsty and often, you should consult your veterinarian. Note: When puppies come from a kennel environment "outside living", to a family house, most often they will show signs of panting and thirst. This is normal because they will be hot with-in. In few days they should adjust in being indoors. The "puppy" feeding schedule is a guideline for our German shepherd puppies. A puppy should be kept lean during 4 to 8 months of age rapid growth phase , BUT they should not appear thin. You should be able to feel the rib cage and the back bone, but not see them. Looking down on the dog, there should be a slight indentation between the end of the rib cage and the hip bones. If you have questions or comments that you would like to share, please EMAIL US Please do not use our website to attempt to diagnose or treat your pet. The consultation with your veterinarian is the best source of health advice for your individual pet. You should not rely, on the veterinary advice or any other information provided on this site for the diagnosis or treatment of any specific condition. You should always consult your own veterinarian for specific advice concerning the medical condition or general treatment of your pet. When should you transition to adult dog food, and how? Still, there are several variables — for example, whether your pup has developed faster or slower than average, the amount of exercise it gets, and any advice your vet has given you. This article will explore these and other factors that come into play when deciding to start giving your young German Shepherd adult dog food. But on an individual basis, the time of adulthood may be closer to ten months or, on the other side, fourteen. After all, you know your dog best. Protein And Fat Must Be Balanced In Any Diet The main thing to be aware of is that when your dog is a puppy, they need a diet rich in protein to fuel their enthusiastic and curious nature — in other words, how much exercise they prefer to indulge in. A good balance between how much your pup moves and how much they eat is essential. Your German Shepherd puppy also requires a significant amount of fat in their diet at this stage to keep their skin and coat healthy and to add flavor to their food. But be careful — too much fat in the diet can exacerbate congenital disabilities like hip dysplasia, arthritis, and degenerative myelopathy. This practice can lead to obesity, and again, hip joint problems. The opposite, not feeding the dog often enough, can cause a deficiency in vital nutrients and lead to dysfunctional behavior. Always be aware that you should strike a balance between good health and an appropriate appetite. Unfortunately, one of the only things to be done preemptively against hip dysplasia is to make sure you get full disclosure of any issues from the breeder or individual you buy your puppy from, and preferably a check-up with the vet as well. Some German Shepherd parents prefer to give raw foods — in degrees that vary from a raw egg mixed into dry food to a total biologically appropriate raw food BARF diet that includes bones, raw meat, and vegetables. Also, cross-contamination from raw meat on cooking surfaces can make humans sick. And finally, the high cost in time and money it takes to maintain this feeding method can be too much to handle. For example, the Food and Drug Administration allows ingredients in dog food like infected animal products , justifying that the heat involved in the kibble-making process kills microorganisms and other pathogens. Add to this all the dyes and other chemicals added to kibble, and you can understand why some German Shepherd owners go with other kinds of food altogether. Also, take into account that the liquid fat applied to dry food to make it palatable can also go rancid quickly, and you might want to reconsider the whole option of kibble for your German Shepherd. Canned Dog Food Is Only A Partial Answer As Well It may seem tempting to go for the canned food advertised as containing real meat and vegetables and no fillers like excessive grain content. And depending on which exact brand you choose, canned food can seem like a sweet deal if you can afford it. Think of how your mouth feels after eating a chocolate bar — your teeth become coated in sugar. The longer you wait before brushing, the more harm that coating can do to your dental health. Final Thoughts Hopefully this article has provided you an essential guide to transitioning your German Shepherd puppy to adult dog food, with attention paid to all the smaller choices involved in the process and their consequences. Proper nutrition is key to keep your German Shepherd healthy and happy. According to Total German Shepherd , all feeding changes should be made gradually to ensure the best possible results. The food recommended by the breeder or rescue organization should be used for the first few weeks to avoid digestive disruption, and kibble should be mixed with a little water. Clean water should be available to your puppy all day but taken up at night. Puppies between eight and 12 weeks old do best with being fed three or four times daily. After 12 weeks, feeding your puppy twice a day is fine. Any changes to the amount of food a puppy eats should be done gradually. Puppies will experience their most significant growth rates between three and six months old. In most cases, this will be around a year old, although larger males might take longer to reach this size. The Happy Puppy Site states that a lot of problems German Shepherds can encounter are due to bone growth that occurs too rapidly. These issues include hip dysplasia. Choosing the right food and feeding the right amount both play a leading role in making sure your puppy grows at an acceptable rate. A raw diet might prove beneficial once your dog has reached adult size. One of the possible benefits is reducing the possibility of hip dysplasia. When your puppy has a growth rate that follows a proper pace, the dog will reach the appropriate proportions when they are supposed to. Even though all dogs run the risk of injury, a puppy that grows at the appropriate rate has healthier bones. Puppy food for large breeds with a high protein level is best for German Shepherd puppies. Whenever possible, it is always a good idea to continue the same brand and essential formulation, but to switch to the adult version when appropriate. You will not only avoid any issues with finicky behavior but will also help ensure that your puppy continues to meet its essential nutritional needs. The outcome of taking these steps will be better overall health for your dog. Then, you will replace half the food for two days and three-quarters for two days, ultimately making the switch totally to the new food. This process should take two to four weeks. This video helps put the process of switching your dog over to another food into perspective. This relatively simple step is an essential way of making sure that your dog is nourished. Avoid adding supplements, because they may add too many nutrients that are already present in the food. Eggs, cooked vegetables, or yogurt make suitable additives for better digestion or flavor variety if you want to provide a treat. Amanda J. These guidelines may vary depending on the brand and formulation. Make sure your dog keeps a healthy weight. The spine, ribs, and pelvic bones should be easy to lightly feel. All GSDs should have a visible waistline. If the food your puppy is eating seems to be leaving them unsatisfied or they do not appear to be gaining healthy weight levels, you may need to consider following up with your veterinarian. Medium-length beef marrow bones can be a tasty treat in addition to their food, especially if stuffed with pumpkin without any spices or peanut butter. However, avoid pork or poultry bones, because these can splinter very easily. Gravy should never be given as a treat because of its potential to cause diarrhea. Another concern is that gravy might contain spices possibly toxic to dogs. Avoid feeding table scraps for the same reason. There are concerns about some kibble-based dog foods that owners should be aware of, according to Anna Burke. These foods include grain-free varieties high in potato and legume content like lentils or peas. Such ingredients increase the risk of canine dilated cardiomyopathy. Large dogs like Shepherds may be somewhat more prone to this condition. If you want to consider this diet, wait until your dog has achieved adult size. Avoid homemade diets, as these are mostly deficient in crucial nutrients that growing puppies require. Melissa Smith notes that timing is everything when it comes to switching from puppy to adult food, and your vet will play a leading role. One of the reasons why timing is so important is because the calorie content of puppy food is so high. This can make the young adult dog gain weight too quickly, in the wrong places, particularly the belly area, where fat can be dangerous. A growth spurt after a year is possible in German Shepherds, particularly males, and your vet may have a good idea of when the growth will finish. However, what about Shepherds that are not purebred? This question is very reasonable, as it is a little more difficult to guess when a mixed-breed is done growing. Compare your measurements to popular GSD growth charts for reference. Consider making sure your vet is on-board as you make the transition from puppy food to adult. Your vet will be able to spot any nutritional deficits that require addressing. Another advantage is being able to ensure the dog has proper bone growth. If your German Shepherd has needs that require a special diet, your vet will be able to provide valuable guidance about the appropriate timing. Even though you might find it challenging to think about obesity when your dog is transitioning out of puppyhood, this stage is not too early by any means. Early prevention is key to stopping many conditions besides hip dysplasia. Both obesity and being underweight can come with their share of problems for your growing dog. Obesity, when unchecked, can not only lead to bone and joint issues but can also lead to heart disease and diabetes. If your dog is underweight, Amber King recommends a high-protein diet with a moderate amount of fat. Follow up with your vet to help uncover the cause of the low body weight. Another possible health issue of concern, according to Dr. OCD is a condition that involves abnormal cartilage growth at the end of a joint. Wobbler syndrome is another condition that may have its origins in overly rapid growth. This disorder is a neurological condition that affects the spinal cord in the neck area, often leading to difficulties with walking. When you have a growing German Shepherd, the right nutrition makes all the difference in their growth and development. Even though it may feel as though the amount of information on nutrition is overwhelming, it is essential. Making the right choices early on will mean greater health and happiness for your dog. A dog that grows at a reasonable, healthy rate will do much better in life. Recommended reading:.