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Pet Keen is reader-supported. When you buy via links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no cost to you. Learn more. We understand there are many reasons for seeking a breeder, though, so we encourage it to be done the right way. We have not personally investigated all of the breeders below, rather, we have gathered their details for you to get in touch and ask all the right questions before you decide. Learn more about our position and how to choose a breeder here. You might be able to find a dog at a local shelter near you, but you could always contact Labrador Retriever breeders if you want a puppy of your own. The popularity of Labrador Retriever puppies has caused many people to unethically breed the dog for their own financial gain, resulting in sickly and aggressive dogs. By carefully considering your Labrador Retriever breeder, you can get a wonderful puppy that is healthy, happy, and well acclimated. Below are five Labrador Retriever breeders in New Jersey. Every one of these breeders are certified and approved by various Labrador Retriever clubs for ethical breeding standards. You can trust any one of these breeders to love your puppy just as much as you will. By raising their Labrador Retrievers within the home of a large family, all of the McClan Labradors are adaptable, friendly, and great for all families. McClan Labradors specializes in all Labrador Retriever coats, including yellow, black, and chocolate. All Labrador Retrievers bred by StormyC Labradors are raised within the home for friendliness and compatibility. They are also bred to be work and show dogs. No matter what the purpose of your Labrador Retriever is, StormyC Labradors likely has a dog for you. This breeder sells all Labradors Retriever coats, including yellow, chocolate, and black. As a result, Weymouth Labradors only breeds the official colors, including chocolate, yellow, and black. Weymouth Labradors is a great breeder if you are looking for breeders that are careful to not over-breed their dogs. As a small hobby kennel, Weymouth Labradors only has litters occasionally, ensuring the health and happiness of all their puppies. Paradigm Labradors raises their dogs to be obedient, agile, and great within all households. So, you can relax and unwind with one of these labs or show them off at a dog show. You can learn all about the Paradigm Labradors dogs on their site, which introduces you to all their boys, girls, youngsters, retirees, and litters. Unlike many other lab breeders, Shadowbrook Labradors primarily only focuses on black labs, but they occasionally breed chocolate and yellow labs too. No matter what coat style the lab puppy belongs to, all the dogs are bred for superior health and personality. Shadowbrook Labradors are especially great for showing and training purposes. Because they are bred and raised on a farm, they also make phenomenal family companions due to their flexibility and gentle nature. Related Read:. We never have more than two litters a year. Our litters are spoken for early, often before they're born, and we encourage new owners to visit their pups as often as they like until the day they can take them home. Our puppies can be watched and heard! All parents have been x-rayed, and have OFA certificates for both hips and elbows. We have the dam's certified x-rays on premises. All parents regularly see veterinary ophthalmologists and have current CERF certificates. The puppies are born in a 4' x 4' whelping box with pig rails for safety. It can be viewed on our live feed starting a day or two before our dogs go into labor. We have sound on during the birth it can be pretty exciting , but turn it off after the puppies are born. Generally, one of them escapes around 24 days and we move them all to an 8' x 8' pen in the basement. We have another camera there, and once they are in their pen, we turn the audio back on so the world can watch and hear them play. We don't introduce them to the outdoors until the day they leave us. We don't train them -- they train themselves. They need to be wormed again at 10 weeks, and we provide the solution, syringe and instructions to the new owners. We vaccinate for distemper and parvo at four weeks and again the day they leave. If we are convenient to their new owners, we will vaccinate again at twelve weeks and then annually. This provides us a means of monitoring the dog's health in the future. We give distemper and parvo shots for the life of the dog. Most important may be the DVD of the litter's history, including a recording of the puppies' birth if it happened on camera , though that generally isn't ready for many months sometimes years after they leave us. All puppies can be AKC registered. Everyone comes often to visit their puppies here, and they bring family and friends. This is a very social environment. Lynnwood Retrievers.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. What IS a Bernedoodle? These are NOT mutts which implies a breeding between unknown breeds or not carefully planned. These are designer breeds that are bred for a specific purpose. We produce an incredible bernedoodle that displays the qualities of both our champion line Standard Poodles and the Bernese Mountain Dog pedigrees. The advantage of a carefully planned mixed breed is that you get the added advantage of a phenomenon called "hybrid vigor". This process shuffles new combinations of genes that helps to increase longevity and decrease the usual ailments that impact many purebred dogs such as various forms of inherited types of cancer not all cancers have a genetic basis such as small and large cell lymphoma which is usually a result from environmental exposure. The bernedoodles are super healthy and are not as prone to the same issues that Bernese mountain dogs and standard poodles are. As a result, you have a family member for a lot longer and that will live a vibrant and healthy life if properly cared for diet, exercise, and family integration are all important components toward helping the dog to live a long happy life with you.You can see the links above about the qualities of Standard Poodles and Bernese Mountain Dogs as both are extraordinary breeds in their own right and for many, purebreds of these may be a great option as well. We prefer the Bernedoodle as they get the best of both breeds, incredibly loyal, goofy, smart, playful, intelligent, and has one of the best dog personalities we have seen in a family dog. The Premier F1 Standard Bernedoodle is a low- to mostly nonshedding we use standard poodles that do not carry the improper coat alleles and Bernese mountain dogs that have thick wavy curly coats.If you want a guarantee on non shedding, then you should try to select an F1b or F1bb bernedoodle. Both look amazingly similar to the F1 standard bernedoodles but maybe a little smaller. We will produce about 2 F1b and F1bb standard bernedoodle litters per year for those wanting a more curly coat in their bernedoodles. Premier Bernedoodles love to be with the family and do not do well in enviroments of isolation. Wherever the family is, that's right where they want to be. They are stunning dogs, and you'll likely get alot of attention and people asking you what kind of dog you have. They are beautiful and along with their incredibly gentle personalities, you will have an absolutely stunning dog. They are a perfect companion dog that love to go on walks through the city or hikes in the woods or mountains or a swim at the beach. They love it all and will be at your side the entire time. They don't tend to wander away as they prefer to be with you.They equally love just hanging out with you on the couch watching your favorite movie or watching you reading a book. They really love it all as long as you're a part of it. They are so loyal to the family. Bernedoodle puppies do have energy like most puppies, and this will continue thru about years of age at which time they really mellow out. They are not nervous nor hyper but will need some off leash time where they can really stretch their legs and run. The old motto "a tired puppy is a good puppy" always prevails! Just make sure they have a lot of fresh water and a cool spot to cool off afterward. Due to the the recombination and shuffling of new genetic variations, they do show some variation in their coloration however they also all have a common morphology that tells you it's a bernedoodle. Although we do take deposits on a first come, first pick basis, we will know the puppies well, their personalities, and can help select a puppy that best fits your lifestyle and what you are looking for. We only use Standard Poodles and Bernese Mountain Dogs to produce our Premier Bernedoodles so that any dog we accept into our Premier Bernedoodle program have passed stringent health tests, display family oriented personalities, and exhibit the best of conformation so that our bernedoodles are absolutely beautiful. Be very cautious when purchasing a purebred or bernedoodle without doing your due diligence as the puppies will always be cute, but will exhibit the personalities of the bloodline used later in life.Therefore, use a reptutable breeder that has invested in the dogs they use for their breeding programs and that raise them as their own family members. They should be able to produce their pedigrees as well, and should have both parents on site so you can see how they react to you. We are very Type A when it comes to the quality of dogs which makes it more difficult to give referrals. We are always going to be biased and believe that the wait for a Premier Bernedoodle is worth it and you'll be very happy you did! Also you can visit your local humane society and help rescue a dog at the shelter.If you have young kids be sure to get a younger dog from the shelter that can adapt to your family. But if you're looking for a unique new family member, a Premier Bernedoodle will be a true delight. Colors and Fur Our Premier Bernedoodles will be traditional tri-color much like a Bernese Mountain Dog , abstract tricolor similar to a traditional tricolor with less white in the face , sable similar to a traditional tri-color but has more reddish-browns due to the poodle genetics we use , phantom, merle, merle tricolor, or bi-colored brown and white, black and white, or shades thereof. Our F1b's will consist of black and whites, traditional tricolors, abstract tricolors, and lots of variable brown and reddish brown and whites. Color never reflects temperament and personality so usually most people don't really care too much what color they are. They are all really beautiful. Although there's variation due to the hybrid vigor present as a result of the recombination of genes in many arrays, there is definitely a bernedoodle appearance that is fairly consistent. If you let the hair grow, they will look like big shaggy dogs that you can't help but to give a big hug to. And they enjoy every minute of it! Our Premier Bernedoodles will tend to have wavy curly coats due to the coat types we require in our bernese mountain dogs which helps to minimize or eliminate shedding.We do make sure that our standard poodles do not carry the genetic marker known as the "Improper Coat" allele or IC for short. Wavy curly coats do require a little more grooming as compared to straight, but many, straight coats shed more.Although they are considered to be large, they don't act like a large dog in the house. They are generally very careful and calm natured as adults however they do have some puppy-fun energy thru the puppyhood stages and thru 3 years of age. They love people and other pets! We do thorough genetic testing of our adults that we use in our breeding program to assure that you are purchasing the healthiest of bernedoodle puppies. Our Bernese mountain dogs come from very long-lived blood lines in Western Europe and these longer lifespans is one of the many reasons we obtain our Berners from several specific populations known for their longevity. Obviously we can't guarantee lifespan as there are many variables outside of our control not to mention, environment, stress, climate, food, etc. But track record seems to show a longer lifespan. What's the Difference? An F1b is an F1 standard Bernedoodle backcrossed to a standard poodle or could be a backcross to a Bernese mountain dog but we generally use the poodle as the backcross. An F1bb is an F1b standard Bernedoodle backcrossed to a standard poodle. Behaviorally they are all very similar with the F1b and F1bb's being slightly smaller than our F1 standards and tend to have slightly curlier coats to a tight wave. If you're looking for a smaller standard Bernedoodle these would be a great option. Pictures are posted below with the other pictures. We continue to get lots of praise from those that have purchased our F1b and F1bb standard bernedoodles. Is the Bernedoodle for Everybody? I would like to think so, but if you do not plan on being with your bernedoodle and keeping it with you, in your home, as part of your home, this is definitely not the dog for you. They thrive on being with the family and not isolated we believe this is the case for all dogs, and especially bernedoodles. Any of our puppies kept in a permanent kennel situation, on a tether, or the like, will violate the terms and conditions of our puppy contract and will have to render the puppy or dog back to Premier Doodles see puppy contract in link above. We definitely support crate training, but these dogs are not meant to live their life in a crate nor kennel! If you want a pet that prefers to be in isolation, you may want to consider a nonsocial pet perhaps a Betta fish! Yes we have done a lot of the hard work the first 8 weeks as we do extensive early neurological stimulation bio-sensor and Puppy Culture program, along with starting crate training and housebreaking, BUT, they are puppies and will need your undivided attention for the next weeks as they work towards being completely housebroken and earning more privileges. They have been communicating with their siblings for the past 8 weeks using their mouth. During their normal daily interactions, you will occasionally hear a loud "yelp" in response to one biting another too hard. This yelp usually ends the mouthing behavior. Now puppies have fur and people generally do not. When you bring your bernedoodle home, they will likely display some degree of mouthing behavior toward their human family. This will usually stop this behavior. We then redirect their desire to mouth to something more appropriate like a chew toy and after a few seconds of cooperating we praise them. The good news.We have a Puppy Guide under our tab "Puppy Central" on how to unpack this process so that you can have success. If you put them time in early, they will have this knocked out in a few days. The rule of thumb is to get them outside ALOT.Be sure to purchase two Midwest XL crates can get from our Puppy Store , one for the back door and one next to your bed. The power of meiosis specialized cell division event that occurs in the reproductive organs, ovaries for females and testes for males and crossing over assures that each offspring will be diverse and different and this difference will be noticeable in color and a little bit in behavior. All will be superior, but some will be more playful and others less so, some will mouth more than others, etc. Available Puppies.Check out our "Available Puppies" tab at the top to find out how to get onto our Master List for a future puppy! Our Bernedoodles are from excellent bloodlines and all Pedigree information traces back to their AKC lineage. Our Dams and Sires have obtained extensive health clearances prior to being bred. These dogs will have a higher success rate for non-shedding, and are recommended for families with allergies. F1 Bernedoodles all have loose wavy coats that are typically minimal to light shedding, while F1B Bernedoodles coats can be loose wavy just like the F1 or curly and there are both coat types within the F1B litter. The F1B Bernedoodle is typically minimal to non-shedding. The coat of a Bernedoodle can vary from straight, loose wavy or curly. An F1 Bernedoodle will have a loose wavy coat, while an F1B Bernedoodle litter has both curly and loose wavy coats within the litter. The coat colors of Bernedoodles can vary based on the color genetics of the parents. We will also have Parti Bernedoodles. Daily walks are a must if you don't have a safely enclosed area for them to run freely. The Bernedoodle can be independent and does great being with family engaging in play, then happily laying on their own with a toy. It is still unknown how long Bernedoodles will live as it is a newer cross. The expected lifespan is hoped to be years. As with any dog, socialization and training should start while the dog is still a puppy and continue throughout its life. Look for a puppy kindergarten class locally or join the AKC S. Puppy Program , training based on positive techniques. You do not have to be an AKC purebred puppy to participate in their S. Puppy Program. Find a class here. This is a great place to start socializing and training. A well-socialized, well-trained Bernedoodle makes a wonderful family companion. Early socialization and training establishes those lifetime bonds between the family and puppy as these programs teach you how to communicate with your new puppy and get started on the right foot. F1b Bernedoodles are also known as second generation mixes. They are the result of breeding a first generation Bernedoodle with a purebred Poodle. But, in a second generation, these boundaries change. F1b Bernedoodle Appearance Two individual f1b Bernedoodles can look quite different from one another. The best way to predict how puppies will look is to examine the two parent dogs being used. Remember that one parent will be a first generation Bernedoodle, and the other will be a purebred Poodle. First generation Bernedoodles have equal influence from the Poodle and Bernedoodle. So, they can look very different. Some may already look very similar to Poodles, but others may resemble their Bernese Mountain Dog parent more closely. The goal of an f1b Bernedoodle is to resemble the Poodle parent more, particularly in their coat type. Generally, second generation mixes will have a more curly coat, and will be closer to the Poodle size than the giant Bernedoodle size. How Big Do They Get? Purebred Bernese Mountain Dogs are a giant breed. They usually grow from 23 to 27 inches tall, weighing from 70 pounds to as much as pounds. Most Bernedoodle mixes will use a purebred Standard Poodle. This variety will grow to at least 15 inches at the shoulder, weighing from 40 to 70 pounds on average. First generation Bernedoodles will fall somewhere in between these two sizes. It will entirely depend on the traits they inherit from the two parent breeds. Generally, they will be larger than your average Poodle, but smaller than your average Bernese Mountain Dogs. They may still be larger than your average standard Poodle, especially if your f1 Bernedoodle was closer to the Bernese Mountain Dog size. To achieve a smaller f1b Bernedoodle, breed your Poodle with a smaller first generation Bernedoodle. F1b Bernedoodle Colors There are a huge number of colors that your f1b Bernedoodle could be. But, it will still be influenced by the parents. Bernese Mountain Dogs can come in the following color combinations: Black, rust, and white. Life Span Did You Know? They tend to be affectionate and loving dogs that make great family pets. They are even known to make great therapy dogs! Although they are not recognized by the American Kennel Club, they are recognized by other canine registries. One of the facts about Bernedoodles is that they are true companion dogs. They are cuddly companions that love nothing more than being with their favorite humans. As long as they are well-socialized and trained, Mini Bernedoodles tend to get along well with children, other dogs, other pets, and even strangers. Miniature Bernedoodles are highly adaptable dogs. They do well in larger homes as well as apartments. They are sensitive to heat and extreme cold, but do well in most climates. Because they bond so closely with their families and thrive on attention, they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time and can develop separation anxiety if you do not work with them early on. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. You can ask about the health and genetic history of the parents and about any health tests or clearances that have been done. Mini Bernedoodles are intelligent dogs that pick up on things quickly and are eager to please. This makes them a highly trainable dog that is a good fit for owners of all experience levels. They can become stubborn if training is not consistent or clear. Although their coat tends to be low-shedding and will range from straight to wavy or curly, the Mini Bernedoodle coat requires some maintenance. Daily brushing is recommended to remove tangles and prevent mats. Professional grooming is recommended every weeks. Nail trims once or twice monthly keep them from growing too long and causing issues. Ear checks on a weekly basis with careful cleanings as needed help to prevent ear infections. As a small dog breed, Mini Bernedoodles are more prone to developing gum disease. Good dental care for dogs early and consistently throughout their life can help prevent painful dental diseases later in life. Daily tooth brushing, plus cleanings at the vet as needed, is ideal. Although Mini Bernedoodles will be playful and have bursts of energy while playing, they are not high-energy dogs. They tend to sit in a more moderate range. Daily walks plus some playtime throughout the day are usually enough for them. But, they love spending time with you and will likely be up for more activity if you are. They may be smaller dogs, but they also tend to be relatively athletic. When puppies finish growing , you can try higher-impact activities like running, hiking, training for dog sports, and more. Fully-grown Mini Bernedoodles usually stand inches tall. They can range from pounds. F1B and F2 Mini Bernedoodles usually weigh pounds and are on the shorter side of the range. Mini Bernedoodles generally live for years on average. Featured Mini Bernedoodle Article. Life Span Did You Know? These large, fluffy dogs are known for their non-shedding coats and lovable personalities. Bernedoodles tend to be a great addition to any family! Although the Bernedoodle is not currently recognized by the American Kennel Club, they are recognized by other dog registries. As long as they are properly socialized, they tend to be open and friendly dogs that get along well with just about anyone. These dogs tend to do well with children, other dogs, and other pets. Although they can be initially wary and watchful at first, they even tend to warm up quickly to strangers once introduced. Bernedoodles are highly adaptable dogs. They thrive in homes with yards where they can run. Despite their size and energy, they can also adapt to apartment living as long as they get enough daily exercise and attention. These dogs tend to handle the cold better than the heat; you may even have some trouble getting them to come back inside after some playtime in the snow. Because Bernedoodles bond so closely with their families and enjoy nothing more than being around them, they do not like to spend long periods of time alone. They can also be prone to skin issues like sensitive skin, allergies, and hot spots. Reputable breeders screen their dogs to avoid passing issues to puppies. Make sure you ask about the health and genetic history of both of the parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. As a large dog breed, the Standard Bernedoodle is also at risk for bloat like both parent breeds. The Bernedoodle is a highly intelligent and easily trained dog breed. Some facts about Bernedoodles are that they are a good fit for owners of any experience level and tend to pick up commands easily. Although they tend to grow out of this initial stubbornness with age, puppy training classes will certainly help with training and socialization early on. Bernedoodles tend to have a longer coat that ranges from curly to wavy. Although they tend to be non-shedding, they still need a lot of maintenance to keep their coat looking great. Daily brushing to remove tangles and prevent mats along with grooming every weeks are recommended. Nail trims once or twice a month are usually enough to keep nails from growing too long. Ear checks weekly with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. Brushing daily along and cleanings at the vet as needed are an ideal start to a good dental care routine for your Bernedoodle. Standard Bernedoodles can range from moderate to high energy. They tend to sit in a more moderate activity range and have bursts of higher energy when they play. These dogs are known to play hard and energetically until they are tired, but are not usually considered high-energy dogs. Daily walks plus playtime and some time to run should be enough for a Bernedoodle. But, these dogs will likely be up for more activity if you are. They will love the opportunity to spend more time being active with you. A fully-grown Standard Bernedoodle usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. Standard Bernedoodles generally live for years on average. A Bernedoodle is also sometimes called a Bernese Mountain Poo. Featured Bernedoodle Article. Bernedoodles come in a variety of sizes and colors. Color is heavily determined by the Poodle parent and what colors are in its pedigree. Their colors can be pure black, black and white, black and brown or the tri-color look that the Bernese has of brown, sable, brindle, chocolate and phantom. There are typically three types of coat. The curlier the coat the less it will shed. Most Bernedoodles have the wavy type coat that is low- to non-shedding. Straight Coat: Like the Bernese coat, it may have a slight wave to it. This coat will shed, less than a Bernese, but noticeably. It is rare to see a Bernedoodle with a straighter coat, however, the straighter the coat, the more it will shed. This type of coat is minimal- to non-shedding. Curly Coat: This is the most similar to the Poodle coat and should not shed. The curlier the coat, the less it will shed. Since most Bernedoodles shed little, they need to be brushed regularly to prevent matting For lower maintenance, you can have their hair clipped every few months, depending on the desired look. This can be done professionally or you can learn to do it yourself. Brushing your bernedoodle will make shedding less noticeable. Puppies should only be taken to the groomer after it has had its full set of vaccines. They should be taken as soon as you can, to get them use to the groomers and the process of being bathed, ears cleaned and nails clipped, or if you choose to do this yourself. There are no guarantees what type of coat a Bernedoodle will have. Bernedoodles are not fully hypoallergenic but do tend to be allergy-friendly. Most people allergic to the dog dander, usually tend to be fine with a Bernedoodle. However, this is not a guarantee. An F1B does tend to be even more 'allergy friendly'. It really depends on what size the Parents are in its pedigree. We can only estimate weights according to parents size. Females do tend to be smaller than males. These are only ranges and a puppy can be out of the expected range when crossing two different breeds. The Standard Bernedoodle is bs in weight and inches in height. The Mini is lbs in weight and inches in height. The Tiny is lbs and inches in height.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Black Labrador Puppies Black is beautiful, and black Labrador puppies are magnificent, and are the number one request we receive regarding puppy inquiries. Of the officially recognized three colors for Labradors by the A. In our breeding program, we breed for all three colors. History of Black Labradors Black Labradors have an amazing history dating back centuries. They were bred from the water dogs that are now extinct. Initially, Labradors were hunting or fishing dogs and shooting companions. Up until the year , many believed that all Labradors were black. It wasn't until the mid-century that breeders ventured out and bred for chocolate and yellow Labradors as well. Even now, many people both in the U. The Best Qualities of Black Labradors Buying black Labrador puppies is most preferred by customers but not without reason. They have an amazing history of being bred for centuries as the most favorable human companions! The black Labrador puppies are magical to watch as their striking black color exemplifies the shine of the thick double coat They have an unrivaled temperament known for their devotion and reliability to their owners Categorized as sport dogs by A. Available by phone:. We have AKC English Lab puppies for sale Our goal here at Winter Valley Labs is to breed excellent dual purpose AKC Labrador Retriever puppies that make great companions and family pets, that also have the ability to excel in the field as well as show ring. And of course, in our hearts. We breed for quality, not quantity. We breed English Lab puppies! Each of our litters is carefully planed and bred with purpose. We are a small breeder in Hatley, Wisconsin. Our love and passion for Labrador Retrievers drives us to better the breed and provide families with healthy, happy, perfect pets, companions and hunters. We have been breeding labs for over 10 years, and look forward to that number growing. We bred our first litter in January of .We hope to grow in size now that we have the room for it. We love to take the dogs out bird hunting, and am excited to get them started on waterfowl this year as we are located on the river. I have been around dogs my whole life, but the lab has always been my favorite. I started studying at the UW of Stevens Point for Wildlife Ecology and Captive Wildlife management, and had done some study in veterinarian medicine but complications with pregnancy forced me out. I decided after my first son was born that I wanted to stay at home with my babies anyways both human and canine. So I am now a stay at home mom for all of our babies. Prior to that I had worked at an animal shelter as well as a grooming and boarding facility. I am doing some online studies for genetics and animal behavior, as I am always striving to be very well educated with the dogs. I am an avid hunter and LOVE spending the days outside with the dogs. Please note; We do not breed silvers, charcoals or champagne. We do not breed labradoodles, golden labs or any other designer breed. We do have English lab puppies for sale- We breed Fox red lab puppies, yellow lab puppies, black lab puppies, chocolate lab puppies and white lab puppies. Fox red and white labs are registered as yellow labs! These ARE akc recognized unlike the dilute colors. Click here to see what english lab puppies we have that are ready to go and looking for their loving forever homes! Our focus is on the English Lab breed. Please contact us for more information on any of our wonderful English Lab puppies, or upcoming and planned litters! We will help you find the perfect puppy for your family! All of our English Lab puppies are vet checked with the vaccines that are needed and also wormed. They also have their dewclaws removed. If in any case a dew claw, or partial dew claw grows back, that will be the buyers responsibility to take care of, if they feel the need to do so. This can be done at the time of spaying or neutering. This is not a common thing. All of our English Lab Puppies are placed with limited registration Pet homes only If you are looking for full registration Breeding rights Do not wait until pickup day to discuss this with us. Coat like velvet and a smile that wins your heart. His temperament is a perfect match for our two young boys and he was housebroken within a week. I am so grateful to Toni for bringing such an amazing dog into our world. Google High quality dogs and breeder. We got the best and cutest puppy ever. I have used several of the best breeders throughout the U. Tank is a male that I got through Still Creek Labradors one year ago. Tank is boxy and beautiful. He is so, so smart, sweet and a total joy. He was easy to train as he has such a laid-back, want-to-please attitude. He will be certified this month as my service dog. He is simply the sweetest, most handsome boy and a true pleasure. I would definitely get another dog from Still Creek because they are also wonderful people. Google Lynette Crum If your looking for a professional breeder and some perfect English Labs look no further. Her house is beautiful and well maintained as are her dogs. Toni actually wants people to send her updates on the pups which is rare. She is very down to earth and good hearted. I would recommend her to anyone who is looking for this exceptional breed. Since the first moment I met Toni I knew she would hold a very special place in my life. She made the entire experience one I will never forget. We purchased our sweet Charley girl from her in ! Toni and I have stayed I contact over the last couple of years and am excited to say we are going through the process again!!! Toni has such a huge loving heart and loves her dogs unconditionally. I would highly recommend Still Creek Labradors in choosing your life long companion. Google Reviews AKC Registered English Labrador Retrievers Still Creek Labradors are strategically bred from generations of excellent AKC Champion pedigrees prioritizing confirmation, rigorous health testing, and the amazing temperament that sets Labradors apart as the 1 dog breed over 30 years now!! Located in the heart of East Tennessee, we work and produce the highest quality English lines of black, yellow, and chocolate coated Labradors. We strategically breed with the best stud dogs in the world. And, we are committed to placing our puppies according to the needs and lifestyle of each companion. However, they were bred from stock imported from Canada and are therefore named for the Labrador region of that country. Even in the early days of breeding in the s, Labradors were more likely to be black than any other color. Labradors are often seen as working dogs and are a popular breed for guide dogs. My first guide dog puppy in training, Stetson was an English black Labrador Retriever! They seem to learn the required skills faster than other popular working dog breeds, such as German Shepherds and Golden Retrievers. Notably, Labradors can be taught to complete very complex tasks. One Lab named Endal was trained to assist their wheelchair-bound human into the recovery position if necessary, cover him with a blanket, and activate an emergency telephone. Appearance Labrador retrievers are considered medium-to-large dogs. The females measure .Labradors have a short, dense double coat that repels water and sheds heavily. The dog has a sturdy and muscular physique with a fairly broad head and rectangular ears. You can tell the difference between an English Lab and an American Lab because English Labs tend to be stockier with more square heads, while American Labs have lankier physiques and thinner faces. Labrador retrievers come in three colors: yellow, brown, or black. English black Labs are, of course, always black. This is actually the most common color for Labrador retrievers, with four in nine pups coming out black on average. Of course any reputable Labrador Retriever breeder can match their stud and dam to produce an all black litter if that was their preference. Same for an all yellow or all chocolate litter. This is due to a recessive gene that each parent must contribute. When I first started raising guide dog puppies we had several black and tan pups including Escort and Eagan. Temperament Labrador retrievers are extremely intelligent and extremely friendly, which is the perfect combination in a canine companion. Labs are considered among the most intelligent breeds, and they are also eager to please. This makes them highly trainable because they are easily driven by reward. They may only need to hear a command two or three times to understand what is wanted from them in combination with positive reinforcement. They also have a strong work ethic and can concentrate on a task for extended periods of time. They are also naturally friendly dogs that bond quickly with their families. However, while they are loyal, they do not have the tendency to bark at any human or animal that is not part of their family that some dogs have. This means Labrador retrievers typically make terrible guard dogs, since they are more likely to make friends with a stranger than raise the alarm. Still, they do well in households with kids and other animals, especially if properly socialized from a young age. They will want to be in the house with their families, including on the couch and in the bed. They need to be around people and can develop destructive separation anxiety if they are left alone too often. Exercise Labrador retrievers are energetic dogs, and they need lots of exercise to stay healthy and happy. In addition to this, they need at least an hour of more intensive exercise per day. This means a run rather than a walk and playing a game of catch or tug. But remember, while adult Labs need lots of exercise, it is easy to over-exercise these dogs when they are puppies. This can lead to malformation of the joints that can be painful in later life. Puppies should only have about five minutes of exercise a day per month of life. This means a four month old puppy needs just 20 minutes, which should boost to 30 minutes when they hit six months. Adult English Labs love active families they can go hiking with. Labs also live swimming and getting in the water. Health And Care Labrador retrievers are generally healthy dogs, but like all purebred dogs, they can be prone to certain health conditions. This is the result of generations of inbreeding that has occurred to develop the breed. While breeders try to prevent inbreeding today, some conditions are well-established within the gene pool. Labradors can be particularly prone to hip and elbow dysplasia, with the chances of these issues increasing if they are over-exercised when young. They can also be prone to eye conditions such as progressive retinal atrophy and cataracts. At one year old her whole litter went to the vet office for an eye exam. Unfortunately, one of her nine siblings was dropped from the program due to cataracts. Labs need good-quality food that is high in animal-based protein with plenty of healthy animal fats. This will give them the energy they need to get through their busy day without the need for excessive calories. Labradors should also be brushed daily to help remove hair from their high-shedding coats. While it is tempting to give them a good wash on a regular basis, this can actually damage their coats and make their shedding worse. It is best to try to limit shampoo sessions for your dog to once a month. This may not be possible if you have an active dog who loves to romp through the mud but do your best. You can always rinse them down and give them a brush if they seem to have picked up excessive debris between washes. Read our guide to how to bathe a puppy here. American vs. English Labs Before wrapping up, it is worth making a note of the differences between the American and English Labs. As we have already noted, English Labs tend to be stockier with rounder heads. This is because while American Labs were bred principally for working in the last years, English Lab breeding was focused on conformation and alignment with breed specifics. This means English Labs are preferable for pet owners looking for show dogs. Also due to this breeding preference, American Labs tend to have a little bit more energy than their English counterparts. English Labs are often characterized as calmer and quieter, but the overall difference between their two temperaments is minimal. This means there are a lot of breeders working with them, but it also means demand is high. I was researching a black Lab puppy between and .In general, it is not hard to come across black puppies, since they are the most common color. Litters often have a mix of colors among the puppies. Despite being dogs that are relatively easy to care for, you will often find black Labs in shelters and rescues. Not everyone is prepared for the responsibility of looking after a dog, so puppies will often find themselves in search of a new home. So, if you are looking for a black Lab, make sure to check with local shelters first. A black English Lab is one of the three color variations of English Labrador retrievers. The others are yellow and chocolate. Black is the most common color for Labradors. Are English Labs calmer? Due to historic breeding practices, English Labs are considered to be a little calmer than their American counterparts. However, the difference is inconsistent and negligible and should generally not be a major factor when choosing a puppy to adopt. English black Labs are friendly and intelligent dogs that are great for first-time owners and families. Still, deciding whether to actually adopt one is a big responsibility. Like many large breeds, they need lots of love and attention. That means at least an hour of exercise a day and plenty of time around their family. If you have an active lifestyle and the time to spend with a canine companion, bringing home a black English Lab will be a highly rewarding experience.

Buy Now 9 week old frenchies. French Bulldog puppies available to go home now. Akc registration and microchip, up to date on vaccinations,All pups come with a puppy wellness check. Al pups have started crate training. Buy Now Daryl. Buy Now Frenchie puppy in Moorpark Tate is a beautiful blue with tan points frenchie boy. Born Full Akc up to date shots and dewormer. Ready for a forever home. They are up to date with vaccinations and deworming. They will are in excellent health and come with copies of their health records. Price negotiable AKC registration papers with or without breeding rights are available. Pedigree chart available at extra cost. Lower Price for a pet only and no AKC paperwork. Has shots and paperwork. She is a black with brown and very loving Buy Now French Bulldog Sweet Pebbles is a tiny fawn baby with the cutest temperament, looking for her lovable family. She is crate trained, potty trained, leash trained. Raised in our home with other animals and children in an environment full of enrichment. I have references and facetime available. View Detail French bulldog baby Adorable green eyed Maxis our fawn submissive boy that just wants to please. Zero is our cream boy. He has a very sweet and gentle demeanor. Both have been raised in an enriched environment and loved by our family. Crate trained, potty trained, love learning with treats and have been around our cat. I have References and Facetime available. Located xxxx area. The unfortunate issue is that we moved into a small apartment which turns out is not as suitable for her as we thought. Kia needs a loving home where she has access to a yard. She is loving, caring, very affectionate and playful and loves to sleep under the covers. Fluffy carrier. Akc Registered. Full Akc shots and dewormer. Born ready for their forever home now. Get healthy and social French Bulldogs puppies from Us. One of the most popular French Bulldog breeders in Los Angeles region. What to Look For in a Dog Breeder After you have done all your research on the breed of the dog that you are going to buy, it is imperative that you look for a Blue French Bulldog breeder who is reputable. A French Bulldogs cannot be found in your local shops as it takes a lot of time and care to breed Blue French Bulldogs. A reputable breeder will have a lot of knowledge on how to take care of their dogs and how to breed a good litter of French Bulldog Puppies. Where to find the breeder? The best ways you can find a French Bulldog breeder is a lot of research and reviews of the French Bulldog breeder. A French Bulldog is hard to find and a blue French Bulldog is even harder to find so make sure that you go for a very knowledgeable and reputable French Bulldog breeder. The first thing you can do is you can check on a club website. Also, you can look for the list of blue French Bulldog breeders on online forums. Many people like to talk about breeders on online forums to give them popularity and credibility so online forums are also a good place to see if the breeder is good or not. Another good place to look for a breeder is to go to dog shows, there are fewer dog shows in the US for a blue French Bulldog as they are rare and you cannot show these dogs in the AKC. You can talk to the people in the show and find out where they got their dogs. Most people will be happy to share their experiences and knowledge with you and help you find a breeder. The local clubs are also very useful in finding local reputable French Bulldog breeders around you. You will also find information on the breeders you need to avoid. After Finding the Breeder After finding the breeder, you need to get down to business. You can call them and let them know how you got their contact and that you would like to purchase a blue French Bulldog puppy from them. You need to arrange a visit with them which is an extremely vital part of puppy adoption. Visit their site if they have one. A reputable breeder has them and will list out their past puppy information with a list of the customer testimonials. If a visit is not possible then you can find out ways to see what conditions the French Bulldog puppy lives in. When you visit them, you need to make sure that the puppy is living in a good place which is quite spacious and is being taken care of by the breeder. It is always good to check if the breeder has both the parents in the facility as this is not the case sometimes. The breeder will sometimes not have both the parents at the same time but it will be good to see at least one parent of the blue star French Bulldog pup. A reputable breeder will keep a good and clean facility for their dogs and will keep a happy and loving environment for the pups and their parents. Ask the French Bulldog breeder to see if they have registered their puppy in a club and also the health checkups and vaccinations papers of the puppy. Puppies should never leave their mother before six weeks and ideally, at weeks they can be separated. At six weeks all puppies need to be checked by a veterinarian for general health, a stool sample for worms and parasites and the first of its shots for distemper, parvovirus, hepatitis, parainfluenza and parvo Carona. This is usually one shot for all of the vaccinations.

Adopt a new best friend. By choosing to adopt, you participate in a statewide effort to provide homes for deserving and loyal German Shepherds. We cover all vet expenses and will purchase all needed supplies for your foster dog while they are in your care. Adopt a Dog Help us help future dogs. Donate your time. Campaign for fundraising. Transport dogs to their destinations. Make a difference in the German Shepherd community. Apply to volunteer with us and provide care for German Shepherds that truly need it. Apply to Volunteer We have found homes for hundreds of happy German Shepherds. Below is a list of German Shepherds that have successfully found a new home. German Shepherd adoption has changed our lives, and it can change yours, too. Bodie A friendly German Shepherd with a lovely black coat. Bodie was a lovely, personable German Shepherd that was finally adopted by a loving family after a long battle with homelessness. She also loves engaging in friendly play with cats! Jill Adopted in , Jill became a playful and positive addition to her family. Jill had previously completed behavioral training prior to adoption, making her an asset to any home. Now, she enjoys daily walks to local parks. Mesaba Once abandoned by his previous owner, Mesaba found a loving family in Georgia, who named him Mesaba after their Minnesotan roots. Mesaba now enjoys walks in the park, play time with friends, and a loving family. Giroux After previous domestic issues with cats, Giroux found a home with one of our volunteers. He now enjoys cheering up his new owner, who has previously lost a German Shepherd to age-related difficulties. Abbie After a history of neglect, Abbie was able to recover from her past trauma and find a loving and accepting home in .She now enjoys playing hide-and-find with new toys, playing in the local pond, and being part of her new family. Fletcher After abandonment from his previous owners, Fletcher was finally able to join his new and supportive family. He now enjoys long walks, lots of attention and plenty of space for personal recreation. Matilda Matilda was shy before reaching out shelter - but after some training, she was finally able to come out of her shell! She now spends time with her new family, receiving more love than she could ever imagine! Queen Adopted in , Queen is a playful and positive addition to any family. Queen had previously completed behavioral training prior to adoption, making her an asset to any home. Ike Ike is the life of the party. We are pleased to announced that after years of neglect, Ike was finally able to join a family of his own. Now, Ike enjoys playing with his new owners and enjoying a life of abundant love and affection. She was once abandoned by her previous owners, but with some care and rehabilitation, Lady was able to relocate to a loving family of her own! Schatzi Talk about playful! Schahtzi is a lovely German Shepherd that was able to join a loving family after a past of neglect. Now, she enjoys lots of exercise and good memories with his new family. See More Alumni Give in memoriam. To us, a dog is family. Every pet has a story, how they were rescued and what they meant to us. Tell us your story. History Where are German Shepherd Dogs from? Perhaps never in the history of any breed has such concerted effort been put into improving a dog, mostly due to the formation in of the Verein fur Deutsche Scharferhunde SV, an organization in Germany devoted to overseeing the breeding of the German Shepherd. Breeders sought to develop not only a herding dog but also one that could excel at jobs requiring courage, athleticism, and intelligence. During World War I, they were the obvious choice for a war sentry. The Wolfdog was later dropped as it caused many people to fear the dogs. How big do German Shepherd Dogs get? The double-coat, with a thick undercoat that sheds twice annually, loses hair continuously but can be maintained with regular brushing one or two times weekly. What are the German Shepherd Dog colors? Black, tan, solid black and solid sable. How long do German Shepherd Dogs live? Lifespan: 10—12 years What are some German Shepherd Dogs facts and information? The German Shepherd held the number one spot in American popularity for many years. Although presently it has dropped from the top spot, the German Shepherd remains as one of the most versatile dogs ever created, serving as a police dog, war dog, guide dog, search-and-rescue dog, narcotics- or explosives-detecting dog, show dog, pet—and even shepherd. Related Content. Share A Story! German Shepherd Rescues In Pennsylvania A small commission may be earned on any purchases made via links on this page. Read our full affiliate disclosure. German Shepherd Rescues In Pennsylvania Pennsylvania has more breed specific German Shepherd rescues than most other states, so if you are looking for a German Shepherd in Pennsylvania, you are likely to be in luck. Pennsylvania also has a number of German Shepherd rescues that operate out of a facility where dogs are housed, which is different from the typical private rescues that operate only out of foster homes. This means that you may have the opportunity to go to an individual location and meet several available dogs, which many people find appealing. If you are interested in adopting a German Shepherd in Pennsylvania, the chances are very good that one of the following rescues will have the perfect dog for you. It has been in existence since .The goal of this rescue is to take in older German Shepherds, typically 8 years and older. She began volunteering with a German Shepherd rescue in and fostered a year-old German Shepherd who had been surrendered to a shelter when his owner was deployed to the military. Her experience with this dog, named Woody, was what caused her to start this rescue. Some of the dogs in their care are adopted out, while others stay at the sanctuary for life. They are likely to keep very old dogs that may have difficulty adapting to another home, dogs with medical conditions like degenerative myelopathy or fecal or urinary incontinence, or behavioral issues. You can also volunteer with dogs at the shelter, which can be a wonderful way to get to know German Shepherds and decide whether this breed is right for you. You can transport dogs , take them for walks at the sanctuary, or foster. You can view their available German Shepherds for adoption here.

Although the collar has been more common over the centuries, sledding dogs of the frozen North and drafting dogs like the Rottweiler and Bernese Mountain Dog have been harnessed to pull sleds and carts since the 18th century. However, the medical data available to us now shows the full extent of damage a collar can cause your dog. This may result in a severe trachea injury, hypothyroidism, ear, eye, and nerve damage. Therefore, a harness is far safer for your pup than a collar. What if my dog pulls on a harness? According to the PDSA PAW report , about a quarter of all owners who adopt a dog from a shelter complain that leash pulling as the most common behavioral problem they face. This is certainly a frustrating issue that can drain all the fun out of walking your dog. The simplest method to deal with a pulling dog is to use an excellent no-pull harness. In addition, behavioral modification through positive training techniques can work together with your harness to keep your dog walking calmly and politely at your side. How do I know for sure what size harness to buy for my dog? Just like clothes for humans, companies that make and sell dog harnesses can differ in their parameters for a specific size. For instance, a Chihuahua will probably be an extra-small size while Great Dane will probably be—you guessed it— extra-large. But dogs can vary wildly within the breed. There are some giant Labs out there and some confusingly small German Shepherds. Not to mention mix breeds, designer dogs, and mutts that can come in any shape or size. Another point to keep in mind is that dogs also vary according to gender. This means that while your male Samoyed might fit happily in a large harness, your female Samoyed might well need a medium one. Therefore, selecting a harness based on breed alone can be misleading and result in purchasing the wrong product altogether. It is essential to only use the breed chart only as a general guideline. One should also be aware that certain breeds are bred to extremes, and finding a harness that fits them can be a challenge. A Boerboel or a Neapolitan Mastiff can easily tip the scales at pounds, making them too big for many harness brands. If in doubt, contact the company first to ensure they have a harness that will fit your dog. Which harness size should I buy for my puppy? A further consideration is what harness to buy for puppies. For example, what size harness should you buy for a Golden Retriever puppy? A large breed like the Golden Retriever will undoubtedly grow out of multiple harnesses by the time it is full-grown. A post shared by Dogs Pets Puppies goldenretrieverpuppys It may need a small or a medium-size from between four and five months and will likely graduate to large when it has reached eight months. Keep in mind this is only a general guideline, and puppies can vary in growth curves just as much as human children do. This is usually just behind his elbows. Simply take a tape measure the circumference of its chest from the withers and around the ribcage at the most extended point. This means starting at the end of the tape at the top of the shoulders and circling the tape around the largest portion of the ribcage to where it meets at the shoulders again. How do I weigh my dog? For most dog owners, the easiest way to weigh your dog is to step onto the bathroom scale and weigh yourself. Then get off and climb on again, this time holding your pooch. Of course, if you happen to own a four-pound Teacup Bichon Frise, you can probably make use of your kitchen scales and it would be adorable. On the other hand, some of us own dogs that are far too big to pick up, at least without slipping a disc. In this case, the best thing to do is to go in to see your vet, who will be able to weigh your dog with their specialized veterinary scales. Dog Harness sizes by breeds For an idea of where your dog might fit on the size, weight, and breed scale, you can study the PawSafe dog harness measurement guidelines below for their no-pull harness , which is also designed to work with a doggy seatbelt to keep your pup safe while traveling. The idea of a lost puppy is terrifying, but an ID tag will help them return home. Although this silicone ID tag is more expensive than standard tags, I love that it is silent and attaches right to the collar. Crate and or containment gate Puppies are curious creatures that often need boundaries. You can accomplish this with a crate and containment gates. Crate training can be a lifesaver, and most dogs fall in love with having their own space. I recommend a crate with an adjustable divider so you can give your puppy more room as they grow. Another option is to use a Cumbor containment gate to limit access to certain areas of your home. Food and water bowls There are endless options of food and water bowls. If your dog eats fast, I recommend adding slow feeder attachment. These aids in proper digestion and reduce overeating behaviors. Food and treats Your vet is probably your best source of information for selecting the right food. They create personalized plans for your dog and deliver the food right to your door. I shared my journey of picking the right food in this blog and video. Toys and chews All dogs have slightly different preferences in toys, so I would start with a variety of items to see what interests your puppy most. Ellie still has her first toy, Dino, from 5 years ago! The safest way to deliver bully sticks is to use a Bow Wow Buddy safety device so they cannot swallow or choke on the last end. Check out this blog for all things grooming. Bonus Recommendation! Online Access to Dog Training We recognized the need for convenient and effective dog training solutions, which is why we created The Hapco. Within our app, you'll discover a wealth of resources, including: video tutorials. Here are some essential points that every owner should consider when purchasing the harness for their beloved one. Measure Your Golden Retriever For A Harness It is one of the most important steps that owners should take, no matter whether your golden retriever is in puppyhood or adulthood. Just measure the fullest part of your doggo chest behind their front legs, and make sure whenever you measure your dog chest, they must be standing on a flat surface. Once you determine that, and the size showing somewhere between small and larger sizes, consider the large one, as it will be more suitable for your puppy. Quality Material Material is something you must look into whenever you buy harnesses, collars, leash, bandanas, etc. The harness must be made of breathable and lightweight material. Plus, a lightweight harness helps your puppy feel light and airy whenever she wears the harness. Customizable It is always good to use harnesses that can be easily adjustable according to the needs of your golden retriever. A Customizable harness allows perfect fit along the belly and chest area and back, which is essential for the dog that pulls a lot during the walk. Basically, a well-fitted harness helps to keep the puppy or adult dog in control to prevent any mishappenings in a crowded place. Puppy Behavior Golden retrievers are a High-energy sporting breed, and that sporting instinct sometimes encourages them to chase moving things on walks, and it can be anything like a ball, squirrels, etc. Hence if you know the behavior and temperament of your Golden pup, it will help you get the best harness for them. This means if our golden pup pulls a lot, then you can use anti-pull harnesses. These harnesses are typically known as Front Clip Harness. With these anti-pull harnesses, your pup can quickly learn not to pull on the leash. On the other hand, if the pup has a good temperament, you can use the regular harness. Safety Features Never give safety a day off! And look for harnesses whose straps are made of a thick and durable material like polyester and nylon. However, you can use fabric harnesses for puppies, as they are not strong pullers. Typically harnesses come with two attachment points, either at the front clip near the chest or the back clip. So in case, your goldie is a heavy puller, you can go with the harness that has a front attachment point that helps prevent any pulling action. While if your goldie has a calm temperament, you can choose a harness with a back attachment point. However, many harnesses come with dual-clip attachment points both back and front. I use them too for each of my dogs. Ergonomic Design Pick the harness that slips on or off your puppy in seconds. Usually, the harness comes in two designs, either step-in design or overhead design. The step-in design is the one where your puppies have to put their front legs into it to wear. Both of the harnesses are pretty easy to take on or off on puppies or adult golden retrievers. So choose the one that eases you the most. Harnesses that have highly reflective strips are excellent to use at night time or early in the morning. People who live in the tropical region often prefer to walk with their puppies either at night or early in the morning due to high temperatures. So whether you pick a dual-clip, step-in, overhead, or adjustable harness, just make sure it has highly reflective straps for added safety. Close search Sizing We know that purchasing online can feel scary, especially if you're unsure of your size so we've done our best to help make sure you get the size right on your first purchase. Use this page as a guide only. We recommend first checking your measurements alongside the Size Guide on the product page along with clicking the link above the Size Guide that says 'View Pups Wearing This Style' to get the best idea of size. This page has been created based on our experience with the majority of customers, but there are always pups that don't fit into these typical sizes and should go by the Size Guide measurements on the product page first. For strong, fully grown Aussie's, we recommend moving into our Adventure Strap Harness that was specifically designed for the requirements and safety of bigger dogs. This also has a front lead attachment for helping them to stop pulling on the lead. For any fully grown, extra fluffy Aussie's, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. Males generally grow into the L when fully grown, but females often remain in the M when fully grown. On some occasions, larger males will wear an XL. On some occasions, bigger males will wear the L. Fully grown Beagles are usually an M but an L is more appropriate for males or larger females. Fully grown females can sometimes be an M or L, whilst most fully grown males wear an L. For any fully grown Beagles that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. BED: We recommend the Small size bed as the perfect size for one Cavalier, or the Medium size for two to share or one who likes spreading out. BED: We recommend the Small size bed as the perfect size for one Cavoodle, or the Medium size for two to share or one who likes spreading out. BED: We recommend the Small size bed as the perfect size for one or two Chihuahua's with room to curl up or spread out. On some occasions, fully grown females that are on the small size of typical cockers will remain in the M even once fully grown. On some occasions, smaller females will wear the S. Fully grown cockers are usually an M. For any fully grown cockers that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. On some occasions, fully grown females will remain in the M even once fully grown. Fully grown corgi's are usually an M. Fully grown corgi's usually wear an M. For fully grown Dalmatians, we recommend moving into our Adventure Strap Harness that was specifically designed for the requirements and safety of bigger dogs. Fully grown Dalmatians often wear the L. For any fully grown Dalmatians that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. Once they are fully grown and have filled out, Frenchie's typically wear an L, though some fully grown, chunky males will wear an XL. Fully grown Frenchies usually wear an M, though some chunkier males will wear an L once fully grown. Because of the overlap in measurements on these collars, Frenchies can wear an L from around 12 months old onwards if you like the extra width. Fully grown Frenchies usually wear an M or L, depending on how chunky their neck is. For any fully grown Frenchies that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. BED: We recommend the Small size bed as the perfect size for one Frenchie, or the M size for two to share or one that likes to stretch out. For fully grown Goldens, we recommend moving into our Adventure Strap Harness that was specifically designed for the requirements and safety of bigger dogs. Fully grown Golden Retrievers often wear the L. For any fully grown Goldens that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. Fully grown groodles are usually an M, though some bigger males will wear the L. Because of the overlap in measurements on these collars, Groodles can wear an L from around 12 months old onwards if you like the extra width. For any fully grown Groodles that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. On some occasions, males and some females with wider chests will grow into the M when fully grown. This also has a front lead attachment to help them stop pulling on the lead. On some occasions, fully grown females that are on the smaller end of the scale will remain in the M even once fully grown. Fully grown kelpie's will wear an M or L and it is best to measure and check against the size guide on the product page. For any fully grown Kelpie's that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. Once fully grown, most labradoodle's wear an M. For any fully grown Labradoodle's that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. For fully grown Lab's, we recommend moving into our Adventure Strap Harness that was specifically designed for the requirements and safety of bigger dogs. Once fully grown, most lab's wear an L. For any fully grown Labrador's that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. Fully grown mini's that weigh less than 6kg are usually in an S. Fully grown mini's that weigh more than 6kg usually wear an M. Some smaller papillons or females will always wear the XS, even when fully grown. Once pugs are fully grown and have filled out with a chunky neck, most pugs wear an L. Fully grown pugs usually wear an M. Because of the overlap in measurements on these collars, Pugs can wear an L from around 12 months old onwards if they have a particularly chunky neck or you like the extra width. Fully grown pugs will wear an M or an L depending on how chunky their neck is. For any fully grown Pugs that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room. Staffy's that are especially wide in the chest will wear an XL once fully grown. For fully grown Staffy's, we recommend moving into our Adventure Strap Harness that was specifically designed for the requirements and safety of bigger dogs. Staffy's that have an especially chunky neck will grow into an L when fully grown. Because of the overlap in measurements on these collars, Staffy's can wear an L from around 12 months old onwards if they have a particularly chunky neck or you like the extra width. For any fully grown Staffy's that grow out of the L, we designed our Bandana Extenders to add to the Large size for extra neck room.

Life Span Did You Know? A mixed dog breed can take on the characteristics of either parent breed or be any combination of both of them. If a Siberian Husky Mix takes after their Siberian Husky parent, they will likely be a high-energy dog that loves its family, has an urge to wander, and needs plenty of mental stimulation to stay happy and healthy. Siberian Husky Mixes are usually loving and affectionate towards their family. With proper training and socialization, they get along well with other dogs and children. With a Siberian Husky as a parent, the Siberian Husky Mix will likely have a high prey drive and an urge to wander. Puppies will often take cues on how to behave from their mother, so meeting the mother dog in-person can give you an idea about the temperament of your Siberian Husky Mix. Asking the breeder about the other parent breed in the mix and meeting the mother dog can help you determine what to expect in your Siberian Husky Mix. A Siberian Husky Mix is moderately adaptable. Because Siberian Huskies are so high energy, they are not a good fit for apartment living. Their endurance, paired with their wanderlust, makes them better-suited for homes with room to run and a securely fenced backyard. They also are better-suited to moderate or colder climates due to their heavy insulating coats. Huskies also do not like to be left alone for long periods of time and are easily bored, so they need plenty of mental stimulation and physical exercise. A mixed breed can sometimes end up with more robust genetics and not be prone to any of the health conditions common to the parent breeds. There is also the potential that they could be prone to conditions of one or both of the parent breeds. Some potential health conditions to be aware of from the Siberian Husky side include eye disorders like Progressive Retinal Atrophy, Corneal Dystrophy, and Cataracts. To get a full picture of what to be aware of in your Siberian Husky Mix, be sure to ask the breeder about the other parent breed in the mix, the genetic history of the parents, and any relevant health clearances. Knowing this information can give you an idea of what to expect and can help allay concerns about potential health conditions. A Siberian Husky is highly trainable, but can be stubborn. Usually, obedience training is recommended with Huskies, especially for novice dog owners. Talking with the breeder about the other parent breed can give you a good idea about what range of trainability to expect in your Siberian Husky Mix. Attending training classes with your puppy is always a good idea as there are always new things to learn and will help you be prepared to train your Siberian Husky Mix successfully. If the Siberian Husky Mix takes after their Siberian Husky parent, their coat will be thick and dense. The other parent breed in the mix may result in a lower-shedding coat or other coat variation, which could affect the grooming level of the coat. Regardless of coat type, there are other grooming tasks that every dog needs including nail care, dental care, and ear care. Nails that are too long can make movement uncomfortable or painful for your dog. By trimming them monthly, or more often if needed, helps keep nails shorter and movement more comfortable for your dog. Dental care for dogs is so important, but is also often overlooked. Dental disease is one of the most common, and preventable, health issues in dogs. Dogs with floppy ears are more prone to ear infections simply because they are more likely to trap moisture, dirt, and debris. This will make grooming your dog much easier as they continue to grow. A Siberian Husky Mix is likely to be a high-energy dog that requires a lot of daily exercise and plenty of mental stimulation to stay happy and healthy. Trips to the dog park , hiking, swimming, games of fetch, running, dog sports, and more are all activities that can help your Siberian Husky Mix expend some extra energy. The other parent breed in the cross can have a big effect on the size of your Siberian Husky Mix. A Siberian Husky usually stands 20 to 25 inches tall at the shoulder and weighs between 35 and 60 pounds. Asking the breeder about the other parent breed and meeting the mother dog in-person can give you an idea of what size to expect in a Siberian Husky Mix. A Siberian Husky typically lives 12 — 14 years. The other parent breed in the cross may affect the life expectancy of a Siberian Husky Mix. Talking with the breeder about both parent breeds can give you a better idea of what could be typical for your puppy. They served in this capacity again for the Byrd Antarctic expeditions. Featured Siberian Husky Mix Article. Your Lab Husky should also visit the vet regularly. You can then wean if off that brand slowly and introduce new food while steadily increasing the ratio. To ensure your Lab Husky mix cub gets all they need to grow up big and strong, try one of the best puppy food brands or some of the best dry dog food for small dogs. A Husky crossed with Lab pup should be fed three to four times daily. Once it hits six months, feeding can be dropped to just two times a day. Keep feeding your dog with puppy dog food until it turns a year old. This is because this feed is designed to have more protein, something that a growing puppy needs. Once your pet turns a year old, it should then be fed about 2. That is when you can switch to the best dry dog food that undoubtedly all adult doggos enjoy. It contains ocean fish meal, salmon, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and peas. Give this to your dog if you want it to have a shinier coat. Nutro Max Large Breed Adult Dry Dog Food: One of the best makers of dog food today, Nutro Max uses fewer ingredients in its feed to reduce the number of digestive issues a dog might develop. It uses real chicken as its main source of protein. Once your pooch reaches a certain age, their bones and overall health become more frail, and they need food that can give them all the necessary nutrients. We have ample suggestions of the best senior dry dog food brands that you could offer your aged pooch. They will also benefit from additional vitamins and minerals, so we suggest including the Nutra Thrive dog food supplement in their diet as well. Your Lab Husky mix will need regular exercise to stay fit and burn off excess energy. This dog needs a long walk twice a day. It also enjoys running around the park and playing Frisbee. This crossbreed has a natural affinity to water and loves to swim. Its webbed paws make it a natural in this activity. Any interactive game will suit this dog perfectly. Families with an active lifestyle and those who love the outdoors will be good matches for the Husky Lab mix. You can even take it hiking or camping. Labs have a particular gene that has been linked to weight increase. This hybrid dog will thrive in homes with a yard where it can run freely. It also loves digging holes so you might have to rearrange your garden. Keep your dog engaged and entertain with these toys — KONG Extreme: Kong toys never fail, and this extreme version of a beloved toy will keep your Lab Husky mix happy for hours. Fill it up with treats, stand back and watch your dog chew on it for hours. Nina Ottoson Dog Tornado: This interactive toy is a bit pricey but well worth the expense. Trixie Dog Activity Chess: This toy will reward your dog with snacks in exchange for its smarts. Hide treats within the movable pieces to keep your pet busy. Your dog will have a great time knocking the ball around or playing fetch with it. It also squeaks, so the more auditory-inclined canines will be interested. Mammoth Flossy Chews: Your Husky Lab hybrid will love tugging and playing this cotton blend, three-knot toy. It comes in different sizes, including an extra large one for massive and strong dogs. Husky Lab Mix Training Obedience training is a must with a Husky Lab mix, and it should start as soon as you bring your dog home. This training will help you develop a positive relationship with your pet while also enabling you to remain in control. A Husky Lab is a very intelligent canine, and a responsible and patient owner can train their Huskadors themselves. This will go easier if the lessons are done at an early age. Fortunately, this stubborn streak can be tempered with heaps of positive reinforcement and repetition. Socialization training is also crucial for this dog. Make sure you start socializing your puppy as soon as you bring it home. Invite your friends over or take your pet to different places. The idea is to let it interact with various people and animals. To make training easier, consider the following tips: Positive reinforcement is best. This is a better strategy with this breed. Do not punish your dog for not obeying your commands or forgetting its training. Set up regular playdates. Playing with others do is a way to keep them entertained, socialized, and mentally engaged. Invest in puzzle toys. Make sure you have lots of engaging toys and puzzles on hand. Labrador Husky Mix and Families A Lab Husky mix is a great family dog, as long as everyone is on-board with the proper way of handling and training it. Consistency is key to ensure this dog is trained and socialized properly. This dog suits all types of owners, from single households to families with small children. But you have to make sure you have the time and energy for this dog. You should ask yourself if you have the patience and dedication needed to provide it with the best possible life before getting one. This magnificent dog is not the pet for busy employees or those who are away from home for long hours. The Husky Lab mix is a unique dog and a fantastic companion. It needs someone who will love it back; someone who will dedicate the time and effort to ensure its physical and mental requirements are met. Finding a healthy Husky Lab mix puppy. Labs are working dogs , born with a job to do. As you might guess, that job typically involves the second word in their breed name — retrieving! These dogs were bred to work closely with hunters to flush out and collect downed prey. Labs are loyal human-focussed dogs. They make for fun-loving, affectionate, and playful pets. Huskies are working dogs too. Historically, they helped out with hunting and gathering food, firewood, supplies, and other necessities. These dogs were bred specifically to cohabitate and collaborate with people. Overall, they make for wonderful, loyal pets and guard dogs. But as he grows up, each day will bring new surprises. Only time will tell which breed-specific traits he has inherited from his Labrador Retriever and Siberian Husky parents, respectively. Your Husky Lab mix full grown may weigh anywhere from 40 to 60 pounds. He is likely to be athletic and powerful. Both parents grow up to about 24 inches in height, so you can expect a medium to large dog. He may have facial and body features that lean more towards the Lab or the Husky. He could have brown eyes, blue eyes, or even one of each! Coats and Colors Labs are well known for their different coats, and mixing a Lab of a certain color with a Husky could lead to a Huskador that has a dark coat. Shedding and Grooming The Labsky dog tends to shed. A lot. The reason for this is simple: the Siberian Husky grows a double-thick coat as protection against the freezing Siberian climate. This means that even a Lab Husky mix who inherits more Lab traits will still shed more than your average Labrador, although likely less than your average Husky. Now, if your dog inherits more Husky traits, you can look forward to a jaw-dropping level of shedding at least twice a year as your pup sheds his thick undercoat and prepares to regrow it. But regardless of which end of the shedding spectrum your pooch tends towards, the best way to control Lab Husky mix shedding is to brush your dog regularly. You can use a tool called an undercoat rake to make the shedding process much more comfortable for your dog and more manageable for you. Take time once or twice per week to groom your dog. This will give you some control over when and where the hairs fall out. Also, it gives you some regular enjoyable bonding time with your pup. Husky Lab Mix Temperament Lab Husky mix temperament is where you will find the most uncertainty, since any puppy can tend more towards the temperament of one parent breed or the other. Your puppy may exhibit a calmer Labrador temperament or a more high-strung Husky temperament. While they are likely to be smart, Husky Lab mix puppies could take after the Lab parent and be a quick, eager learner during training. Or they could be more stubborn and even inconsistent, like the Husky parent. A Huskador puppy could also have a more reserved personality, like a Husky. Alternatively, you could end up with a naturally exuberant Lab-leaning pup that reminds you of the canine star of Marley and Me. Labs tend to bark only as needed. Huskies, on the other hand, tend to bark at anything and everything. Your pup could fall anywhere in between the two. Digging is another issue , as Huskies are big on digging. Labs are known for chewing on anything they can find, which could also be an issue for your Siberian Retriever. He will likely be very loyal and somewhat protective, however. Socialization is an important part of raising a well-behaved member of any breed or mix. From the day you bring him or her home, have plenty of visitors to the home. Take your Huskador to a number of different locations to familiarize him with other environments. Try to get your pup to meet as many different people, vehicles and animals as possible. Socialization is important to the well-being and good behavior of every breed, even ultra-friendly Labs. Huskies, as mentioned, tend to be a bit more reserved, so socialization is vital for this mix. Training and Behavioral Traits For decades, dog training was all about establishing the pack leader. Leading trainers taught that there were only two choices: either your dog was the alpha, or you were the alpha. However, we know differently now. For a dog, there is no such thing as alpha, or dominance, or pack leader, or even anything similar to any of these concepts. As long as you provide your dog with his daily required resources, your interspecies family life is likely to go quite smoothly overall. In fact, the purebred Siberian Husky breed is known to exhibit some of these traits far more frequently than purebred Labrador Retrievers. This can make training more challenging and time-consuming if your Labsky puppy tends more towards the Husky side of his parentage. But whether such behavioral traits show up in your puppy or not, these behaviors are never about winning dominance over you or becoming the pack leader. These traits are either inbuilt breed-specific characteristics, or fear-based responses to perceived scarcity of needed resources. Ultimately, your puppy is dependent on you for every need that he has. Understanding this can eliminate your concern over alpha-type struggles. Huskador Exercise The Husky Lab mix comes from two active, energetic, working dog breed parents. Boredom can be a real problem for these dogs, as they are literally bred to stay active all day, every day. Often, they perform very physically demanding jobs! So you can pretty much count on the need to keep your Siberian Husky Lab mix dog active and busy. Otherwise, she may develop her own itinerary of fun activities to pursue. Lab Husky mix dogs also have webbed paws and a natural love of water. Swimming is a great activity for them. So is any game of fetch that involves retrieving a bobbing toy from the water. They also love to run and will eagerly enjoy long runs off-leash if your situation permits. Lab mixes are at risk of hip dysplasia, so be careful with younger dogs and keep their exercise at appropriate levels. Health and Care A Lab and Husky mix puppy may inherit known health issues from either the Labrador or the Husky gene pool. Therefore, it is critical to conduct health testing when selecting a designer dog puppy. This is the only way to know if breed-specific congenital health issues may be present. Each breed may have health issues that are inherited or acquired along the way. Labrador Retrievers are prone to a few health issues that can be protected against in future generations through health testing. The most prevalent are hip and elbow dysplasia, as well as progressive retinal atrophy. Siberian Husky dogs are known to be prone to a few health problems including cataracts, glaucoma, arthritis and heart problems. Predicting Life Expectancy Generally speaking, the Labrador Retriever has a life expectancy of 10 to 12 years. The Siberian Husky, in turn, has an average lifespan of 11 to 13 years. These statistics would indicate a Lab and Husky mix might live anywhere from 10 to 13 years, which is generally considered an accurate lifespan range for these designer dogs. We recommend reaching out to these rescue societies to ask about any Huskador dogs in need of adopting. Here are a few to get you started.

Vocality level 5 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. Temperament ACA delightful blend of dignity and comedy, the Pug is an amiable, playful, and confident companion. They can be stubborn and headstrong, but they are pleasant and generally willing to please. They love to cavort and show off. Upkeep The Pug needs daily exercise, either in the form of a lively game or a moderate walk. They do not do well in heat and humidity. They needs minimal coat care but daily cleaning of facial wrinkles. Their smooth coat needs only occasional brushing to remove dead hairs; however, the wrinkles need regular cleaning and drying to prevent skin infections. The Pug may often wheeze and snore. Health Major concerns: Pug dog encephalitis, CHD, brachycephalic syndrome Minor concerns: elongated palate, stenotic nares, patellar luxation, Legg-Perthes, entropion, KCS, skin infections, hemivertebra Occasionally seen: seizures, nerve degeneration, distichiasis, allergies, demodicosis Suggested tests: eye, hip, knee, DNA Pug dog encephalitis Life span: 12—15 years Note: The Pug cannot tolerate heat and is sensitive to anesthesia. They are prone to corneal abrasion and obesity. The Pug is somewhat of an exception in the Toy Group because they are perhaps the only one to be descended from mastiff forebears. Although their exact ancestry has been lost in antiquity, the Pug retains many mastiff characteristics. The Pug is an ancient breed, one of several miniaturized in the Orient, where they were a favorite pet of Buddhist monasteries in Tibet many centuries ago. Here they became quite popular and were recognized as the official dog of the House of Orange after one saved the life of Prince William by sounding an alarm at the approach of Spanish soldiers in .Pugs were first brought to England during Victorian times and became incredibly popular with the wealthy, displacing the King Charles Spaniel as the favored royal breed. Several Pugs were brought to England from China in .A year earlier, the breed had been recognized by the AKC. Since that time, they have remained popular a pet. Related Content. They are bouncy, tail wagging, cuddle bugs, the cutest things ever! Uncle Al lives in our "apartment", the walkout basement downstairs. We help Uncle Al with his Pugs. They are wonderful caring moms! When our moms retire we have them spayed and offer them to pet only homes for about half the cost of a puppy. They will be on the retired parent page at that time. Diva will be available this late winter or spring .See the other pages: "About our puppies," "what comes with your puppy", and " is a puppy really right for you. Or maybe adopt a rescued adult Pug. Rescue is always the best! Do your homework, since a rescued dog needs a home appropriate for their needs as much as a puppy! A puppy is a very serious decision. Please do not get a puppy or a dog if you have any hesitation about long term responsibility of a furry best friend. We love our puppies and dogs and only want them in a home where they will be a part of the family! If interested in a puppy please email or call. Remainder due on pick up. Pugs are heat and cold sensitive. Not at all a 'hiking in all weather' type of dog. Some are amazingly agile, fast, and athletic and do tolerate a wider range of temperature. Others are at risk of collapsing if overheated when simply out on a warm day and playing. Many make terrific therapy dogs. They are very tolerant of children. Puppies available now! All puppies are kept current on vaccinations, dewormed several times, microchipped, and well socialized. Puppies are microchipped and current on vaccinations. Nikki black and Boris fawn had puppies 1 white female available, updated .Photos taken , at 4. They have grown so much but look the same, update, they are 14 week old. Email: betsneal yahoo. They occasionally have Pug pups available so keep updated on their Facebook page for new information. Kings Creek has been breeding Pugs since .Kings Creek is passionate about quality puppies and is more than happy to offer prospective owners references from prior purchasers and their veterinarians. All pups come with a health check, vaccines, and deworming, as well as a two-year genetic health guarantee. They love their dogs and show commitment to the betterment of the breed in everything they do. But how can you spot reputable breeders when you start searching for a Pug puppy? Here are some tips to help you out. A good breeder will… 1. Issue a health guarantee Make sure that your breeder of choice offers a health guarantee. A reputable Pug breeder will write up a binding health guarantee for all of their puppies. The guarantee protects you against any genetic defects or diseases. It shows that the breeder is confident that their puppies are bred according to best practices. This means if you can no longer look after your pup for some reason, you will be expected to return the puppy to the breeder rather than taking them to a shelter. Provide standard health clearances Your breeder should have full health clearances for both parent Pugs. Good breeders often provide some early health-check clearances for their pups too, although some health clearances simply cannot be carried on such young pups. Issue a written bill of sale Reputable breeders offer written bills of sale to all of their new Pug parents. This bill of sale should be signed and will outline all the roles and responsibilities to be taken on by the buyer and seller as part of the transaction. Vaccinate their puppies All puppies should be up to date on their vaccinations before being homed with new families. Your breeder of choice should be able to provide evidence of these vaccinations. Reputable breeders welcome prospective parents into their homes to see the puppies. Follow age guidelines Puppies should never leave the litter before 8 weeks of age. Any breeder offering pups for adoption before this time is not following best practices. In fact, this could be quite damaging for the puppy developmentally. A reputable breeder will keep their pups at home until eight to twelve weeks so that they can be properly socialized and spend that crucial time with their mother and litter-mates. Answer your questions Last, but not least, a reputable breeder will be knowledgeable. In most cases, they will also want to ask you plenty of questions to ensure that their precious pups are going to good homes. We have a strict selection process that takes a variety of factors into account. That way we can ensure that only the best breeders end up on our lists. This way we know that our chosen breeders offer genetically sound and healthy puppies. Health testing shows a commitment to the health and wellbeing of each Pug. Contact information Any breeder that does not offer up their contact information is a big red flag. A reputable breeder will make it easy for you to get in contact with them by providing telephone numbers, email addresses, and they will usually have a well-established website as well. It shows a commitment to breeding best practices. Event participation Breeders who also compete in doggie events are often some of the best. Because these people tend to be dog lovers par excellence. They live and breathe for their Pugs and are proud to show them off in public. They are also more likely to have a high level of breed knowledge — an excellent sign for a breeder. Breed club membership There are lots of breed clubs out there that breeders can register with. These clubs have rules, regulations, and membership fees. If your breeder is registered with the Pug Dog Club of America, this is a great sign showing commitment to the Pug breed. Recognition awards Lastly, we look out for awards! Institutions like the AKC recognize the efforts and achievements of top breeders. The very best will be awarded the AKC recognition of merit award. During this time we recommend getting everything ready before your new arrival rattles through the front door. Your puppy will need: a crate for sleeping and training during the early days quality puppy-grade food a leash and harness plenty of toys You may also wish to purchase a puppy gate if there are areas of your home that you want to keep your Pug away from. This is all about making your home as safe as possible for your new arrival. Make sure anything that could potentially cause harm to your pup is removed. Clear your schedule Having a Pug puppy is a bit like having a human baby. So make sure to clear your schedule and get all of those errands done ahead of time! Once they arrive… 4. Avoid crowds Hold your excitement. That means no crowds. Try to keep the home environment as stress-free as possible so that your puppy can settle in and start to feel part of the family. Crate training is the first step. Lay down a regular routine from the get and your Pug will be good as gold in no time.

June 2, Samantha Johnson Newborn Puppy Care Week by Week If you're raising puppies, it doesn't get more exciting than the moments after delivery when you finally get a chance to meet the new litter. How many puppies are there? What colors are they? How many males or females? It's a heartwarming time as the mother dog forms a bond with her new puppies. Even if you have a healthy mother dog that loves her litter, you'll still be involved with newborn puppy care week by week. Here's a rundown of some things you want to keep in mind. Raising puppies is hard work, but thankfully you don't have to do it alone! The mother dog is your partner in this task, and your role this week will be an "overseer" and someone to contribute in areas the mother can't manage, like weighing the puppies and deworming them. Are the puppies nursing? Newborn puppies receive all of their nutrition from their mother's milk, so it's very important to make sure each puppy is nursing properly. Another key factor is the colostrum the puppies receive from the milk, which contains important antibodies to protect the puppies during these early stages of life. In this instance, the mother dog will take care of deciding when to feed the puppies. In the event of a serious problem, you'll need to take over bottle feeding the puppies with the aid of a newborn puppy feeding chart. Weigh the puppies. Keep an eye on your puppies' weight gain by weighing them every day. You should see a steady increase each day and you can expect each puppy to double its birth weight by the time they are seven to 10 days old. Keep the puppies warm! Newborn puppies are still developing and aren't able to regulate their body temperatures effectively. They receive some protection from their mother's body heat, but it's possible your new mother dog doesn't spend all her time with the puppies in the whelping box. After all, she's used to life with her family, and she may not want to have her daily routine entirely disrupted by her puppies. This is fine, except the puppies may need a heat source when she isn't around. Once the puppies are older after their eyes are open and they can move around easily you can fill that need by providing the puppies with a puppy-safe heated pad designed to provide warmth without getting too hot. Heat lamps are also sometimes used to heat the general puppy area, but talk to your veterinarian first. Keep the whelping box clean. You want to regularly change the bedding and absorbent pads and frequently clean the whelping box over the next several weeks. Get a vet check. You may wish to have your veterinarian evaluate your puppies and their mother shortly after birth to ensure everyone is doing well. Keep an eye on their eyes. Puppies generally start to open their eyes at about this time. If they don't, you probably should have a veterinarian take a look and possibly help assist the puppies by manually opening their eyes. At all times, be on the lookout for any kind of eye discharge or other signs of infection. Watch their weight. Continue to weigh the puppies each day during week two to ensure everyone is steadily gaining weight. Start deworming. Under your veterinarian's guidance, the puppies should receive their first deworming treatment at about two weeks of age. By about three weeks of age, you can—and should! Once the puppies have their eyes open, you can try carefully picking them up, holding them for a bit, and placing them back in the box. It's just a tiny, early step towards socializing them with people. Watch them grow strong. Always keep an eye on the puppies' health and physical growth progression. By three weeks, they might try to explore more of their environment. Continue to monitor their weight by weighing the puppies every three to seven days. Lower the heat again. The puppies' ability to regulate their body temperature is improving. Offer water. Your three-week-old puppies might begin to show an interest in a water dish. Place a shallow, puppy-safe bowl in the whelping box and see if they experiment with it. Some experts recommend trying a mixture of water and puppy formula in the water bowl. Always keep a close eye on your litter's physical growth and behavior. Are they advancing properly? Are they starting to walk? The puppies are growing up fast; you can lower the whelping box temperature down to a normal room temperature. Bring on the solid food. Well, not too solid at first, but more substantial than their mother's milk. Introduce soft foods slowly, then transition to solid foods. Pups are really starting to be on the move now. They might start to venture a little further away from their littermates and think they're pretty independent. Introduce more solid foods. The puppies will gradually eat more solid food as the mother dog naturally slows the frequency of nursing. When your puppies are six to eight weeks old, it's time for their first vaccinations. The specific vaccines given at each visit may vary slightly depending on your region and the specifics of your puppies' lifestyle. Additional vaccinations will be needed after ten weeks and in the coming months. Register the puppies. If your puppies are purebred, now's the time to register them. They'll be so impressed with their papers! Not those papers! Wean the puppies. By this time, the weaning process that began around week four will be completed. Have a heart! You can help ease the transition away from the mother and littermates by offering each puppy a pillow that mimics the sounds of their mother's heartbeat. It's a reassuring sound that will help them feel relaxed in their new home. You can also mimic the warmth of their mother's body heat with a heated heartbeat puppy bed or give them that same warm coziness with a heated heartbeat crate pad. Say goodbye. After eight weeks, members of the litter often leave home to join their new families. The week-by-week care of newborn puppies is a lot of work, but there is a lot of satisfaction and enjoyment in the process as well. Aaron, Marc. Williams, Krista. VCA Hospitals. Jamieson, Amy. Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more!