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Bishop hails from the streets of the south, where he was trying to make it on his own and chasing the wrong type of dames. However, his life took a turn when he ended up in a scary place called "The Shelter. Bishop weighs around 55 pounds, and he wants the ladies to know that it's all muscle. But don't let his muscles fool you, he's as sweet as sugar and listens better than most men. He has a mix of boxer, lab, and pitbull in him, but his handsome looks mostly come from his pitbull side. And yes, the ladies love his guns! Unfortunately, Bishop's previous foster home had cats, and they didn't get along well. So, he's currently back in boarding, where he enjoys the company of other dogs and a kind lady who takes him for walks and plays ball with him. Bishop absolutely loves his toys and chasing balls. He can get a bit "mouthy" when teased with toys, but he redirects nicely. He enjoys going for walks, but if he spots a bird, rabbit, or squirrel, he's off like Richard Simmons in a workout video. However, he responds well to correction. Bishop is a goofball who doesn't take much seriously, except for treats. Treats are serious business to him, and he'll do just about anything for one. He loves peanut butter in his kabobs but avoids rawhide to maintain his playboy figure. With his big smile and awesome personality, Bishop hopes to find his forever home. He's fully vetted, which means he's had his shots and is neutered. He is currently undergoing treatment for heartworms using a method called Slow Kill. Bishop is an easygoing, sweet, smart, happy, cuddly, and laid-back dude. He loves exercising, playing catch, and chasing balls, but he also enjoys relaxing and taking naps. He would be more than happy to lounge around in bed and watch TV with his humans. A perfect day for Bishop would involve the three C's: chasing balls , catch, and chill. He simply wants a best friend, someone to love him and give him the attention he deserves. A house would be preferable to an apartment, but he's open to trying out apartment life if it's a good fit. Bishop is currently in training now and is available for adoption or foster. To learn more about him and start the adoption process, reach outr to us. Wecan provide you with Bishop's portfolio and an application for his forever home. Bishop can't wait to give you wet kisses and steal all your blankets. We are accepting deposits on this and future litters due to the high demand for puppies from our gorgeous and health boxers. Please contact me with any questions or to reserve your puppy! We are breeders of Champion bloodline boxers with European lineage. We are a small breeding facility and all our puppies are raised inside our home. We offer a health guarantee, vet exam, puppy kit and gift bag with essentials. Our puppies tails are docked and dewclaws removed by a licensed veterinarian. We start house training at 5 weeks of age and socializing from birth. Our pups are socialized with children, cats, other dogs and tons of people. We welcome visitors to our facility and enjoy introducing them to our dogs and puppies. Our puppies are always up to date on shots and get frequent worming to keep them happy and healthy. We offer delivery to select areas for a fee. We would actually drive the puppy to you for the same fee in areas that driving is a feasible option. Our puppies come with full unlimited AKC registration so if you decided to breed or show your puppy you would have that option. Most breeders do not give unlimited registration with their puppies. They come from well socialized parents with excellent temperaments. Our puppies stay in our puppy house from birth with their Mom until they are placed in their new homes not in an outside kennel and are cared for by our Veterinarian medically. We have references available via phone from former customers for your convenience. Please feel free to ask any other questions or ask for more photos of our puppies. Thank you for your interest. AKC proudly supports dedicated and responsible breeders. We encourage all prospective puppy owners to do their research and be prepared with questions to ask the breeder. Britlyn Boxers.

Please contact us at mcalkins1 me. We are grateful to bring this valuable education into our Bernedoodle breeding program. Our Texas Bernedoodles breeding dogs must have a minimum of a passing hip test score and elbow score. Clearing our dogs for potential diseases not only ensures that our dogs do not have these issues prior to breeding, it also ensures that we will never produce puppies that could have these diseases. Hip and elbow testing does not guarantee that puppies will never have hip dysplasia, but it is the best method that we have to prevent producing puppies with genetic hip issues. Hip problems are often caused be environmental factors, but culling puppies for breeding purposes helps to reduce the risk of breeding bad confirmation. Temperament, coat and trainability for different types of disciplines are key in our breeding program. Our goal is to breed perfect family members, service dogs, guide dogs, therapy dogs and best friends and that begins with breeding the perfect parents. Years of care and experience have made us experts as Texas Bernedoodle breeders. We know how to accomplish high standards that we have learned by being diligent with ALAA standards that we have followed for almost two decades and our own personal goals for our Bernedoodle puppies. We know that a Texas Bernedoodles bred dog is the finest of our wonderful breed and we are so proud to have produced such wonderful companions and working dogs. Please see our references page for more stories and letters from our families. View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near Houston Texas and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups! Questions about Bernedoodle puppies for sale in Houston TX? We have answers. Give me a an overview of Bernedoodle puppies for sale in Houston TX. The Bernedoodle, one of the most popular designer breeds around is a cross between a Bernese Mountain Dog and a Poodle. Like most other cross breeds, the Bernedoodle is available in different sizes and colors depending on the genetic makeup of the Poodle parent. Houston Bernedoodle breeders set out with the goal of combining the best characteristics of these two breeds to create a dog that is loved by Americans across the country. Because our network is made up of so many experienced breeders, most of the Houston Bernedoodle puppies for sale or puppies from another state are able to be shipped across the country to the most convenient airport of your choosing. In order to take the best care of your new puppy, we ensure that they always fly in the cabin and not down below with the luggage. How does Uptown Puppies screen Bernedoodle breeders? In order to vett and screen so many breeders we analyze facility quality, animal care standards, genetics and more! Why is Uptown Puppies different from an online search? When you sort businesses by marketing dollars spent and not reputation you allow fraudulent businesses with strong online presences to boost their way up the ratings which can be quite detrimental. What does a Bernedoodle puppy cost? The price you should expect to pay for a Bernedoodle puppy can depend on a few factors. Factors including, experience of the breeder, age of the puppy, location and even genetics. What is a puppy mill? Unfortunately, puppy mills are a lot more common than you may think they are. Are there a lot of Bernedoodle breeders near me? What should I expect from Bernedoodles in general? Bernedoodles were originally bred to be human companions which is why they take their job very seriously. To a good amount of families, Doodle breeds like the Bernedoodle are one of the best breeders that you could own. Can I take a Bernedoodle on lots of hikes? You can definitely take your Bernedoodle on walks around the block or even on day hikes to your favorite outdoor area. These dogs love to be outside on a walk with their owners, after all they were bred to be companions. What is a backyard breeder anyway? A backyard breeder is similar to a puppy mill in the way that they both thrive online but often backyard breeders have even smaller budgets than puppy mills. A backyard breeder facility is easy to think of as either a section of a backyard or even sometimes a spare bedroom where puppies are crammed into small, unsanitary spaces.

Food bowl Treats Make sure you have all the above items before you bring your Golden retriever puppy home so that you can get started crate training him right away. Position The Crate Before you set off to collect your puppy, decide where you want his crate to be. Prepare The Crate Fit the crate with a non-slip crate liner, comfy bed, or crate pad, and put a tempting chew toy inside. Put a bowl of water and a packet of treats close by. Cut a small piece of the blanket and put it in the crate. Keep the rest of the blanket for future use. Let the puppy check out the area around the crate. Curious pups might even voluntarily venture inside the crate! Put a few tempting treats inside the crate, close to the door. Golden retrievers are notoriously food-oriented dogs that will most likely be enticed into the crate by those yummy treats. Never force the puppy into the crate. Chat to your pet, offer him more treats, and add a fun toy to the mix to persuade your furry friend to go into the crate. Generally, placing the crate around people will help to encourage your puppy to feel comfortable spending time inside it. Play Crate Games Crate sessions can be made more enjoyable for your puppy by incorporating some crate games. Use treats, cuddly toys, or a KONG toy stuffed with frozen peanut butter or treats to reward your puppy for entering his crate. Crate Feeding Your Golden Retriever Puppy Golden retrievers are very food-oriented, and you can use that to enhance and speed up the crate training process considerably. Allow your puppy to watch you prepare his meal, and then place the food bowl just inside the crate. Once your puppy is confidently going into the crate to get the food, move the food bowl to the back of the crate. Shut The Door By now, your Golden retriever puppy should view the crate as a safe, comfortable, fun place to be. So, try closing the crate door when your puppy is happily tucking into his food. The first time the door is closed, open it again once your pet has finished eating. At each crate training session, leave the door shut for a little longer. Step Back Away From The Crate Assuming that your crate routine is going well, your Golden retriever puppy should now associate the crate with a couple of treats, toys, games, and eating his meals. A common mistake people make is that they try to move too far away from the puppy too soon. Provided that the puppy is calm, you can now move away from the crate. If your puppy starts whinging, turn your back on your pet, and wait a few minutes until the whining stops. After ten seconds of your pet remaining calm, you can turn around and allow him to come out of the crate. Watch your puppy throughout this exercise, and let your pet out of the crate as soon as he shows signs of anxiety. Very young puppies aged up to ten weeks old will need to relieve themselves immediately after a meal. Potty Breaks When you begin your crate training puppy schedule , observe your pet closely for tell-tale signs that he needs to go potty. Generally, puppies will start whining, circling, and sniffing the ground when they need to relieve themselves. When that happens, immediately grab your puppy, and get him to his assigned toilet spot. Eight-week-old puppies typically need to go for a pee around every 30 to 60 minutes. During warm weather or after exercise, when the puppy drinks more, he might need to go more often than that. Once the puppy is older, he will be able to wait for longer between potty stops. What About Bedtime? The safest place for your puppy to spend the night is confined in his crate. Although your pup might experience a bit of separation anxiety from bedtime crating at first, you can help to mitigate that by putting the crate in your bedroom with you. Use a crate cover to create that safe, den-like space that encourages your canine companion to settle down and sleep. Sometimes, giving your Golden retriever puppy a special treat reserved for bedtime can help him understand that his crate is a comfortable space to spend the night. Expect Disturbed Nights! When your puppy is very young, you can expect to be disturbed by his cries for attention during the night. Dogs are clean animals, and they will resist soiling their sleeping area if at all possible. So, set your alarm to wake you up every couple of hours throughout the night so that you can take your puppy outside to relieve himself. Immediately Clean Up Accidents Unfortunately, dealing with potty accidents is all part and parcel of raising and training a new puppy. When that happens, never punish or scold your pup. When accidents happen around your home, use an enzyme cleaner to remove the scent of urine from your floor coverings. If your puppy has an accident in his crate, you must wash all the bedding immediately. Ensure that you have a good supply of spare bedding to grab if you need it, and clean the crate thoroughly to remove any lingering smell of urine. Golden retrievers are especially quick at remembering simple words, and these trainable dogs are typically pretty obedient. So, from the get-go, you need to begin using verbal cues. Pick short and clear words so that your puppy can easily recognize and remember them. Combine your cue words with crate training. Increase The Difficulty As crate training progresses, you can make things more challenging for your puppy. Ask your dog to stay in the crate with the door closed for longer periods, and begin to move out of sight. Just like little kids, puppies will throw tantrums during the first few days of crate training. That behavior is perfectly normal and to be expected, especially when you first close the crate door. Instead, reward calm behavior with treats verbal praise, and let your puppy come out of the crate. So, when a tantrum kicks off, simply turn your back on your furry friend, and wait until he settles down again. Consistency Is Crucial! One of the most common problems people experience when crate training their puppy is not being consistent. Yes, it can be tough when your adorable fluffy bundle is crying and whining inside his crate. Unfortunately, giving in to your fur baby when he complains simply teaches your pet that whining and other bad behavior get him what he wants, which sets your training regimen back. Playtime Is Vital A lively Golden retriever puppy bursting with energy is not likely to settle calmly in his crate. Final Thoughts I hope you enjoyed our guide to crate training a Golden retriever puppy. If you did, please remember to share it. Crates are also useful tools for potty training your puppy and preventing bad behavior, such as chewing and eating harmful substances. Always be consistent and patient when crate training your puppy; use cue words and positive reinforcement to make learning fun for both your pet and you. Did you use a crate to train your Golden retriever puppy? Tell us how you did in the comments box below. Meet our writer Alison Page Alison Page was brought up with dogs and various other pets! For a few years, Alison worked as a Practice Manager in a small animal veterinary clinic. Alison is now a full-time writer, specializing in creating articles on the care and training of dogs, cats, and fish. Leave a Comment. Key Takeaways Crate training can help you provide a safe and comfortable environment for your Golden Retriever. Avoid rushing the crate training process to ensure your dog feels comfortable and secure. Please do not use the crate as a punishment or leave your dog in it for extended periods. Crate training can be more effective and enjoyable for your dog if you use consistency, positive reinforcement, treats, and toys. Make it more comfortable by providing toys, blankets, and treats. Step 2: Once your pup is at ease, close the door and bring toys and treats inside. Keep an eye on them and let them out if they become distressed. Step 3: Increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed gradually, and step away from the crate while they are distracted. Step 4: Extend the time you are away from the crate. Selecting The Right Crate Size To ensure your Golden Retriever is comfortable and has enough space in their crate, you need to measure them accurately. Golden Retrievers will typically grow to by 20 to 24 inches tall and up to 75 lbs, so you need to make sure to get them the right size crate. Follow these steps to determine the size of your dog: 1. Measure the height of your Golden Retriever: Have your dog stand up straight, Measure from the floor to the top of their shoulder blades. Add around inches to this measurement to determine the minimum height for the crate. Measure the length of your dog from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail. Remember to add 2 to 4 inches to the measurement. Measure their width by having your Golden Retriever standing with their legs slightly apart. Focus your attention on the widest part of their body, which tends to be the chest area. Once again, always add up to 4 inches to the figure. Finally, you want to consider the age of your Golden Retriever. For example, if you have a puppy, keep in mind that they will grow rapidly. You may want to choose a crate that will work for their adult size or opt for an adjustable crate with dividers, so you can gradually increase the space as they grow. Your Golden Retriever puppy will rapidly outgrow a nice crate that is not suited for an adult size. Now that you have all the measurements, you can refer to this Crate Size Calculator to find out the right and best dog crate size for your golden retriever. What Is Crate Training? Crate training is the process of teaching a dog to accept a crate as a familiar and safe location. Here are some of the reasons: House training: Using a crate, you can help your dog learn where and when to go potty. This will make house training more effortless and less stressful for both of you. Safe space: A crate can be a relaxing and safe place for your dog to relax and sleep. It can also help keep your dog out of a mess by preventing them from chewing on inappropriate items or getting into dangerous substances. Traveling: Whether driving or flying across the country, a crate can help keep your dog safe and comfortable. Additionally, many hotels and other accommodations allow crate-trained dogs. Separation anxiety: A crate can provide security and comfort if your dog gets anxious when you leave. Knowing they have a safe place to go can help alleviate their anxiety and make their time away from home less stressful. Overall, crate training is an excellent way to provide your dog with a secure and comfortable environment to call their own. You should start crate training your puppy when you bring them home. However, with patience and positive reinforcement, an older dog can be trained to use a crate. Crate training can be a helpful way to provide a safe and comfortable space for your Golden Retriever to rest and relax, but it should never be used as a form of punishment or confinement. When done responsibly and positively, crate training can be a positive and effective method for you and your Golden Retriever. However, with time, consistency, and positive reinforcement, you can help your dog get used to his crate. Add treats, toys, and blankets to the crate to make it more inviting. Increasing the time your dog spends in the crate gradually is crucial. Remember that crate training should be enjoyable for you and your Golden Retriever. You can quickly make your furry friend feel safe and secure in their crate with a little effort! Benefits Of Crate Training Your Golden Retriever Crate training can be super helpful for your furry friend and offer them a bunch of benefits, such as: Prevents Destructive Behavior: By giving your Golden Retriever a cozy and secure space, crate training can prevent them from chewing, digging, or scratching on household items. Potty Training: Crate training can teach your Golden Retriever to associate the crate with their den, making it easier to hold their bladder and bowels until you take them outside. Prepares Them For Travel: If you need to take your Golden Retriever on a trip, crate training can help them feel comfortable and secure while in transit. Crate training is a great way to help your Golden Retriever feel safe, secure, and comfortable while preventing destructive behavior and keeping them healthy and happy. Adult dogs: They can handle up to 8 hours in a crate, ideally with a break in the middle. Overnight: Many dogs can stay in a crate overnight without issues. Always ensure that any time in the crate is a positive experience for the dog, supplemented by regular breaks, exercise, and playtime outside of the crate. The shift is a delicate balance of patience, supervision, and positive reinforcement. Gradual Exploration Start by letting your dog explore a restricted, safe space under supervision. As comfort grows, extend the time they spend outside the crate. Monitor and Supervise Observe your dog closely during early freedom stages to prevent accidents or mischief. Ensure your home is dog-proofed to minimize potential hazards. Essential Amenities Keep their water bowl accessible. Designate a comfortable resting spot outside the crate. Positive Reinforcement Reward good behavior with treats or praise. This encourages adherence to house rules and reinforces desired behavior. Display patience and affection throughout their transition. With time and consistent guidance, your furry friend will seamlessly integrate into the household, striking a balance between freedom and behavior. Before leaving your dog alone in the crate, be patient and make sure your furry friend is comfortable and safe. For them, the crate should be a positive and safe space, and associating it with negative experiences can cause anxiety and fear. While some time in the crate is acceptable, providing sufficient opportunities for exercise, socialization , and bathroom breaks throughout the day is essential. Maintain a consistent routine and use the same commands each time you place your dog in the crate. Use Toys And Treats: Place toys and treats inside the crate to entice your dog to enter. This will make the crate a more positive and enjoyable environment for them to be in. Ensure your pup gets enough exercise and playtime throughout the day, so your furry companion can relax in the crate when the time comes. Excessive whining, barking, panting, and restlessness are all signs of stress in a Golden Retriever. If your furry friend exhibits these behaviors in the crate, they may be too stressed. Can I use a crate for my adult golden retriever? Yes, as long as it is appropriately sized and they are comfortable in it, you can use a crate for your adult Golden Retriever. Can you leave a puppy crying in the crate? Leaving a crying puppy in the crate is not recommended because it can cause separation anxiety and other behavioral problems. Instead, it is critical to gradually acclimate them to the crate and create a positive and comfortable environment. Should you put a blanket over a dog crate? Yes, draping a blanket over a dog crate can provide a sense of security and darkness, but ensure proper ventilation is maintained. What age is too late to train a puppy? Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Want to learn how to crate train your golden retriever puppy fast? Crate training is one of the best things you can do for your puppy. It helps accelerate potty training, it keeps them safe, and it helps keep them from learning bad habits like chewing up shoes. Read this article to learn more about potty training your golden retriever puppy. When I was a kid I hated vegetables. I just wanted fries and chicken nuggets. But what did my parents do? They made me eat veggies a little at a time until I got used to them. And then after I got used to them, I learned to love them. Now as an adult, I would much rather prefer a pile of grilled zucchini, broccoli, and asparagus than a plateful of fries. Crate training your golden retriever follows a similar pattern. But the following steps are going to teach you how to teach them to love their crate and handle being alone. The wire crate helped because it was open so he could always see the people around him, which lessened his anxiety of being in there alone at first. Step 2: Get The Crate Ready This is another step that you will have ideally done before you bring your puppy home. The first thing to consider when getting the crate ready for your pup is where to put it. Here are a few options: In your bedroom In the living room or other area where people in your home hang out Get two crates and have one in your bedroom and one in the living room Golden retrievers love being around people, so having their crate around people will usually help ease some of the pain of crate training. This will usually help with the loneliness and crying. The other thing to consider when getting the crate ready is what to put in it. You also may want to put a bed in there to make it comfortable for them. So how do you do that? First, they need to decide to go into the crate themselves. You can do that by putting a favorite toy in the crate, or scattering food in there. Expect them to walk in and right back out the first time. You want to make it so that they know fun things are in the crate. Check out the video below for a fun crate training game to help your puppy learn to love their crate. Walk out of the room for a second, then come back in. Then walk out for five seconds, then ten seconds. These next few sections will answer some common questions that new puppy owners have, as well as some tips to help the process go smoothly. Putting your puppy in the crate with a full bladder is one way you can set them up to fail. Also, frozen kongs or chew toys with peanut butter work great for easing your puppy into getting comfortable in their crate by themselves. That means that a two-month-old puppy can only hold it for about two to three hours, so expect to have to wake up two or three times every night until they get a little older. Take the water bowl away about two or three hours before bedtime so that your puppy will have time to fully empty their bladder before going to sleep for the night. Get them sufficiently tired during the day. Play games like tug, fetch or chase to physically wear them out, and train them and give them puzzle toys like frozen kongs to mentally wear them out. Set an alarm to wake yourself up before they wake up themselves. This is a tough situation, but it can be done. Here are some tips to make it work. You may have to come home on your lunch break, ask friends, family, or neighbors to come over, or hire a dog walker to let your puppy out. Wear them out in the mornings Go on walks, play chase, fetch and tug, or wrestle with them in the mornings to get some of their endless energy out. Utilize an exercise pen You might want to consider getting an exercise pen like this one from Amazon and circling it around the front of the crate to give your dog some extra room. Check out the video below for an example of what a crate looks like with an exercise pen attached for extra space. Does she need to pee? Is she full of energy? Or does she just want to get out and get some attention? Remember to set them up for success before you put them in crate, meaning physically and mentally tiring them out and making sure their bladder is empty. You can also leave for short periods of time starting at seconds , then come back and let her out. How long it takes for your puppy to get used to the crate depends. Did you rush them into it, or did you let them learn that the crate is awesome? Have you been rewarding them for barking in it, or have they learned that silence is what gets them out of the crate? It also depends on the dog. Some dogs take to crates much better than others. You can do it! Is Crate Training Ever Over? We started leaving him alone in the house somewhere around six months old, and then a few months after that we started letting him sleep outside of his crate he decided to sleep under the toilet… weird dude. Two big questions to ask yourself when considering taking this next step are: When was the last time my puppy had an accident in the house? When was the last time my puppy chewed something up in the house? Just like with crate training, you want to take baby steps and set them up for success. Crate Training Mistakes While all of the tips above will help make crate training go smoothly, the mistakes below can ruin your efforts, or at least make it very hard to get them to relax in their crate. Mistake 2: Rushing crate training Crate training takes time. Would you want to go in an unfamiliar box in an unfamiliar house? They need to learn that the crate is fun, safe, and relaxing, and that takes time. This leads us to the next mistake… Mistake 4: Punishing them for crying in the crate If a puppy is crying in the crate because they want attention, they might perceive you yelling at them as attention. Mistake 6: Using the crate too much Golden retrievers are lovers. Conclusion Crate training is one of the best things you can do for your puppy. Have any questions about crate training? Or have any other tips for new puppy owners? Let me know in the comments below! Related articles:. Read the full disclosure here. I know that, and eventually, your dog will know that, too. In this article you will learn exactly how to crate train a puppy or dog, no matter their age or level of previous training. You should read the whole guide before starting, to gain a complete understanding of the process, including the tips and troubleshooting at the end so you can find the speediest success. Why do we do this? We do this so we can use the crate as a place for short-term confinement, to keep our dogs and our belongings safe when we cannot supervise them. Then we can confine them short-term when needed, and they are happy to do so. Yes, they can even enjoy their time in the crate! In contrast: A properly crate trained dog will enjoy time in there happily and stress-free, even relishing the chance to get down to some occupational chew toy time or just to chill out and relax. Dog obedience is key to get this result! Benefits such as: Dramatically speeding up house training. Giving your dog a cozy and comfortable place to call their own where they can sleep and relax, overnight or whenever they wish. Giving you a tool to use for managing problem behaviors or to use for time outs to calm your puppy when needed. Giving you a safe way to transport your dog both by car and air if the need should arise. So they can enjoy trips away and holidays with you. Preparing your puppy for boarding at the vets, a kennel or at home to recover after medical treatment. There are many benefits to using a crate when used correctly, but they can also be misused. And there are also times when you should never crate a dog, regardless of their age or how much or little they can be trusted: Times And Ways That You Should Not Use A Crate There are a small number of dogs that suffer true anxiety and panic when placed in a crate. Under no circumstances should these dogs be crated…ever! The signs you need to look out for are: Any damage to the crate that show signs of attempting to escape. Urinating or defecating in the crate. The crate has moved at all while your dog is inside they must have made some frantic movements for this to happen. Never if your dog has sickness or diarrhea. Never when the weather is extremely hot. Never for any time longer than 5 hours. Not any time your vet prohibits it for medical reasons. Never as a way to punish your dog or for punishment. Use obedience training to correct bad behavior instead. Crating your dog for any of the reasons above is either inhumane, dangerous or purely selfish. Getting Prepared Before you can start crate training, you obviously need a crate. But you also need to make it a comfortable and happy place for your dog. Choosing A Crate Dog sleeping in crate There are many different sizes and style of dog crates available, from tiny inch crates all the way up to inch and bigger! XXL heavy duty dog crates. There are wire dog crates , plastic, fabric and even high quality wooden crates that look just like pieces of furniture. But the most important aspect of the crate you choose is its size: Too small and it would be cruel to expect your dog or puppy to spend time in there Too large and it loses the den like feeling dogs crave, not to mention they can use one end to sleep in while using the other end as a toilet, so it loses its effectiveness. For detailed instructions on measuring your dog for a crate and selecting the right size and type to suit your needs, please see my article: Choosing The Right Size And Type Of Dog Crate 2. Making The Crate Comfortable And Safe Dog In Soft Crate After choosing the right crate, you then have to make it a comfortable, safe and pleasant place for your puppy or dog to love spending time. For a detailed guide on where to place your crate and what you should put in it, you can read my article on: How to make a crate comfortable and safe for your dog. Make sure the crate is out of any direct sunlight, away from heat sources like fireplaces or radiators, and away from any possible cold drafts. Place soft, comfortable bedding inside. Place 2 or more chew toys inside to keep them occupied and develop good chew toy habits. If you have a wire crate, cover it either with a purpose bought crate cover or an old blanket or towel. Following the above 5 tips ensures the crate is a nice comfortable place for your dog. These pose a risk of choking if they happen to snag on anything, so no collars or leashes allowed. Your dog or puppy must be completely naked when crated. You must not rush through and you must make sure you are successful at each stage before you move on to the next, otherwise you could end up causing your dog or puppy to hate the crate by leaving them crated before they are ready. This unfamiliar box can be scary! The ultimate goal is for them to use it voluntarily. So the first task you have on the journey to crate training your puppy or dog is to form in their mind an association between the crate and all the things that they enjoy in life, so they see the crate as a good thing. Fail at this and you could saddle yourself with a dog who hates the crate, refuses to use it and maybe even fears it which can be a very hard thing to undo. So how do you go about achieving this? Technique 1: Magically Appearing Toys And Treats Set up the crate before you bring your dog home or if you have an existing pet, assemble the crate without them seeing so it just magically appears. Now let your dog or puppy into the room. So what should you do? Just act as you normally would, do what you would normally do. Play with your dog or puppy, or sit and watch TV, just act normal. Hopefully they will investigate this new thing in their world, enticed by the treats around and inside it, but also out of plain curiosity. Just draw no attention to the crate at all. Every dog will eventually at least eat the treats around the crate, if not the ones inside. This has the effect of the most prized things in their life being magically conjured up by the crate. Do this for a couple of days or more before you start crate training, and then occasionally for the few weeks after starting so your dog learns to love the crate and what it provides. You should find after a very short time they venture into the crate on their own just to look for some goodies, all without any encouragement from you. NOTE: Any treats you give this way have to be subtracted from their daily food portions or they will be overeating. And I say to do this just for the first few days and then only occasionally because to help house training you want your puppy eating on a schedule to promote defecating on a schedule, not eating at random times and pooping at random times. Feed these meals inside the crate. At first, place their food bowl just inside so they only have to poke their head in to feed. Then after the first couple of times, place it half way into the crate. After a couple of times of this, place it all the way at the back. You might be successful with this right away, or you may have to place it at the front for a few meals over a few days. Some dogs confidence builds quicker than others. Eventually and not before too long you should find your dog expectantly running over to and maybe even into the crate every time they see you holding their food bowl. After a few days of magic appearing treats and your dog eating dinner from the crate, basically once they are used to the crate and associate good things with it, we are ready to start crate training. When you do release your dog you do not want them bolting out and bumping into you, particularly important if you have a large dog such as a Golden Retriever that can easily bowl you over on their way past! You want them to reliably leave the crate when you ask. You can only achieve these three things if your dog understands that they must stay inside until told they can leave, or must leave when they hear the cue word. Choose whatever words you like, just be consistent. You do not want to spook your dog at this stage. Sit close to the crate armed with some high value treats, show them to your dog and then throw one inside the crate. Move away so they can easily exit and just stand patiently and quietly waiting for them to do so. Repeat this 8 to 10 times then take a couple of minutes break. Then do another set of 8 to .Yes, for real. Repeat this whole exercise a few times over the course of a day or two until your dog is comfortably, happily and reliably going in the crate when you throw in a treat. Training your dog to do this is a huge step! Make sure they really are confidently going in to get the treat before moving to the next step. And remember to use your cue words every single time so they quickly learn them. Step 3: No Treat For Free! The next step is to ask your puppy or dog into the crate before you treat them. Make them work for the treat instead of using it to lure them into the crate. To start, do 2 or 3 exercises of throwing a treat in and using the cue word as they go in to get it. When they do, give them a treat or two while you praise them profusely. Then use the cue word to leave and praise them when they do. Repeat this 8 to 10 times, take a couple of minutes break, then do another 8 to 10 before finishing up for this session. Repeat this step many times over the course of a day or two until you are certain your puppy or dog truly understands the commands and is happy to both go into and leave the crate on cue before you move to step 4. Now, many of you will have a dog at this stage that goes in, gets the treat or their toys and cannot wait to get back out again. But some will already be sitting, laying and sleeping in the crate of their own accord. Regardless though, what you want to achieve is your puppy or dog to sit and lie in the crate on cue, which is different to doing it of their own accord. Begin this just a couple of days after getting them home because they need to understand the cues outside of the crate before you can hope to have them follow the commands inside it. Other things you should have been doing before this step are: feeding your dog or puppy their main meals inside the crate occasionally leaving stuffed Kong toys in the crate this gets them used to spending time in there, usually in a sitting or laying position this will have made things easier Now, run through 2 or 3 repetitions of steps 2 and 3 before you start step 4, always remembering to use your chosen cues! Next, when your dog is inside the crate: Simply cue them to sit, praise and reward them profusely when they do. Then ask for a down and do the same. Then cue them to leave the crate before repeating the exercise. Try this 8 to 10 times before a few minutes break, then repeat for 8 to 10 times more. Repeat this whole step a few times over a day or more, but as you repeat the exercises, ask them to stay sitting or lying down for longer periods before you release them. And you should vary the duration to keep them guessing what it takes to earn a treat. Try just 1 second, then 5, then 2, then 10, then 3 and so on. Try to stretch the time out over a few practice sessions. Remember to be gentle and that your tone of voice throughout training matters. As always: Start with 2 or 3 repetitions of the easier steps first, going through steps 3 and 4 before trying to close the door. When ready: Cue your dog to go into the crate, praise and treat them, then ask for a sit, praise and treat and then slowly close the door. You ask for a sit because this position is automatically a more calm and relaxed position than standing. Continue to praise your dog and give a couple of treats through the closed door for remaining calm and sitting. Then open the door, and cue them to leave the crate. If your dog looks fearful or panicked when you close the door some will! Start by closing the door just part way for a few repetitions, then half way for a few, then most the way before finally closing it fully. This may take one training session or a few over days. Are you ready to move on? Once your dog is happy to sit a few seconds with the door closed, begin to latch it. Praise and treat for calm, then release the latch and open the door. For a training session, do 8 to 10 reps, take a few minutes break and then repeat. During each set, vary the time they have to stay calm and sitting, 3 seconds, then 10, then 4, then 15 and so on. You should aim to extend the time they stay calm and sitting with the door closed to a full minute before moving on to the next step. Again, this could take an afternoon, or it might take a few days. Go at your dogs pace and never force things. The base is serving as a staging facility for hurricane relief operations. Air Force photo by Master Sgt. Jack Braden Once your puppy or dog can sit calmly in the crate with the door closed for a full minute, the next step is to start moving away with the ultimate aim of being able to leave the room. First of all, perform a few reps of steps 4 and 5 as a warm up, remembering to always use your cues. Next, follow these steps: Cue your dog into the crate, close the door, latch it, praise and reward them and take a couple of steps backwards away from the crate but still facing it. Then return, praise and reward. Open the door and cue your dog to come out. Do this exercise 8 to 10 times, then take a few minutes break and repeat. For each repetition, mix things up: Try walking away a different distance in a different direction, but remaining in the room. First 2 steps backwards and pause 5 seconds before returning, then 4 steps to the side and a 15 second pause and so on. Work up to walking right to the exit or the wall and pausing for a full minute. Next, you will want to amp things up even more: Perform this exercise while you actively walk around the room, looking busy doing other things, but return to praise and treat your dog often. Tidy some magazines, rustle through a drawer, just look busy doing other things a few times in the house. Then, go even farther: Perform this exercise but back yourself up to the exit of the room and leave for just a couple of seconds before returning and heading to the crate to treat and praise. Do this a few times. The time this takes and the success you have will vary from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Always stop at 10 repetitions max, and never more than two batches in quick succession followed by a big break. Otherwise your dog will get bored and the training is less effective. Now you just need to start increasing the time they are happy to spend time alone. Before you begin, something that goes a long way toward helping is to make sure your puppy or dog is well exercised before asking them into the crate. Why is that? A tired dog will be far more willing to relax and chill out for a length of time, compared to one who is full of energy and keen to play or wanting attention! After exercising them, the first step is to increase the time they are happy to spend in the crate while you are still nearby. To achieve this: Crate feeding: Feed your dog in the crate, or give them a stuffed Kong toy or good tasting bone chew toy. Hang out nearby: Ask your dog into the crate, give them their food or the toy, then close the door and take a seat nearby to read a book or a magazine. Engage occasionally: Every now and then, give them a further treat and praise, then go back to your book or magazine. Gradual build: Try to work up to a good half hour of quiet and calm in the crate while you read and they chew. Ignore them: After a couple of times like this, crate your dog or puppy with their meal or a stuffed toy and move around the room busying yourself, paying little attention to your dog. You want them to be eating their meal or chewing a toy in the locked crate while you do other things. Leave the room: After a couple of repetitions of this, repeat the exercise but move freely in and out of the room a few times, as well as occasionally sitting nearby. Disappear: Start by leaving the room for only 5 or 10 minutes, extending the time over a few sessions until you eventually achieve a full hour of alone time. As always, how long this takes will vary wildly from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Go at their pace. It helps massively to succeed in this step if you only ever give your puppy or dog the bone chew toys or stuffed Kongs when in the crate and never outside of it. It builds excitement and anticipation, something to look forward to in the crate. Step 8: The Grand Finale! Wait for them to start chewing and then leave and come back into the room a couple of times. If they stay calm and pre-occupied with their chewing, simply leave the house. Then, do this: Go outside and walk to the bottom of your garden, just hang there for a few minutes and then go back inside and walk around your home for a couple of minutes before going to the crate and your dog. You want them to think that this is nothing, a complete non-event. And certainly do not go straight to them when you come back in. Remember: this even means nothing! From now on, practice alone time in the crate when you leave the house at least a couple of times every day, for varying lengths of time. Never make a fuss of any sort before you go, never make a fuss on your return. Over a few sessions, build up the time you are out of the house with your dog in the crate to a couple of hours as long as they are old enough to hold their bladder this long. You can now use the crate to keep your dog and your belongings safe when you cannot supervise them, and use the crate as a sleeping place for your dog at night. Always leave a few toys in there with your dog, and continue to repeat the exercise where you crate them with a stuffed Kong or chew toy if natural opportunities do not arise, just to keep them happy with the situation. If you have a dog that: Some puppies will take regular naps in the crate before you even start crate training. They might go on to show little interest or care about the door being closed. They might be super confident and happy right away with a little alone time. You might be able to crate train such a dog in just a few short days. Dogs like this can take many weeks to crate train: Some puppies may show fear of the crate and not want to go anywhere near it. Once carefully trained to go in, they might feel panic and fear when you close the door. You have to go at your own dogs pace because if you rush them you can instill dislike or even fear of the crate in their minds, and then it will take far longer than it ever should have. But many or most dogs will take to it quicker, and most puppies certainly will as they have no preconceived ideas, habits or emotions to overcome. When going through the steps above, if your dog excels at any stage you can quickly move to the next step. If they do not, if they show any fear or uncertainty, spend more time at a particular step until they are comfortable before moving on. Your dog will show you when they are ready to progress and you should go at their speed, however fast or slow that may be. They need to be able to: move around exercise their muscles enjoy some mental stimulation If they are regularly crated longer than this, behavioral problems will be the result, as well as the fact they have little in the way of a fulfilling life. In my experience this is a bit optimistic, all dogs are different and when a puppy is very young, this is certainly too long. This is with the exception of puppies from 8 to 12 weeks old who will need letting out once during the night. But after 12 weeks, they can last the whole night through. Crating your dog when you work full-time means two lots of 4 or more hours crated and this is a long time, so quality time, exercise and stimulation before and after crating is essential. Tips For Better Crate Training What follows are a few useful tips to keep in mind when crate training your puppy or dog. They will make the process easier and faster, while making sure your dog is comfortable and happy throughout the process: Always make sure you take your puppy or dog to their bathroom spot before you crate them for any length time. They will be uncomfortable and noisily complain with a full bladder…but rightfully so! Also take them the moment you let them out as they will usually be ready to go. Make sure the crate door is always open and your dog always has access to it so they can use it as and when they please. Most dogs will use it as a place to rest and this is a good thing. Always leave chew toys in the crate for your dog so there is something for them to do while crated. This will minimize boredom and teaches good habits of chewing on the right things. Continue to feed them their meals in the crate. Also, reserve special treats like bones and stuffed Kong toys for the crate only and never outside of it, so they really look forward to spending time there. Exercise your dog or puppy well before crating them for any length of time. A tired dog is one who is happy to relax and chill out. If you find your puppy nodding off and completely unable to stay awake this happens a lot! This will speed up their acceptance of the crate considerably if they snooze and find themselves waking up in there often. The worst thing you can do is force them in because chances are it will heighten their fear and make things even worse. Instead, break the task down into easier steps for your dog by employing some of the following tasks: Practice asking your dog to step in and out of cardboard boxes. First trimming the sides down to look like a small tray, then using further boxes and increasing height of the sides. Place bedding in the box and practice asking them to lay down. Some dogs may not like the roof aspect of the crate. Ask your dog to step underneath, even sit under there yourself and read a book while enticing them over for treats. Start with a big gap and a wide area covered, then lessen the gap between furniture in later training sessions to make it feel more crate like over time. If you have a plastic travel style crate airline crate then remove the top half and practice having them step in and out of the bottom half only. Start asking your dog to step into the bottom tray only. Then put on 2 of the walls for a couple of training sessions. Then three walls for a few sessions. Then the roof until finally the crate is fully assembled. Then cover the back third of the pens roof with a sheet and do the same. Then cover a half. Then remove a part of the pen to make the area smaller and ask them in to play with them. Whichever of the above you try, make sure an exit is wide open and easy for your dog to use for escape so they will feel less anxious. And take things very slowly, making sure they are visibly comfortable at any stage before taking a next step. After a few days maybe more of slowly getting them used to stepping into things that progressively get more and more crate like, you should be able to begin crate training. This type of reinforcement will not help the cries. Yes, you getting angry and telling your dog off will actually make the issue worse. This will train them to think that if they cry long and loud enough, you will eventually come and let them out. Not a good idea. Wait for 5 seconds silence before you approach, then give them a treat. You ruined it! Wait for at least 5 seconds of silence before you return, then treat them. Enough repetitions of this will teach them that silence gets rewarded and noise makes you go away. Why did they whine? You might want to go back a step or two in your crate training though. Make sure they are comfortably happy and silent in the crate, for a reasonable length of time with the door latched and you present, before you ever try to leave them alone. Young puppies cannot hold it through the night without having a potty break. But how do you know if the whines are because they need to eliminate or just crying for attention? For a puppy 8 to 9 weeks old, you will need to set an alarm to take them to potty twice during the night, at 2. For a puppy 9 to 12 weeks old, set an alarm to take them to potty half way through the night, 3. Make sure you do not feed them anything in the 3 hours before bed, take away water at least 2 hours before bed, and take them to their toilet spot to empty themselves as the very last thing you do before you go to bed. When you take them to potty, make sure you do so in silence. No playing, no words, no attention, otherwise they will learn that night-time is a time for play and attention. You obviously do not want this. They are very different things. But if when you leave your dog alone crated they show these symptoms: anxiety. Dublin during one of his first puppy crate training sessions. When it comes to crate training puppies every puppy is different. Stetson was an extreme case and after those four weeks of pure torture, much to my joy he went totally silent and would sleep in the crate all morning without a peep. Dublin was on the other end of the spectrum and only had a couple of nights whimpering before he began sleeping through the night. Our wire crate is collapsible making it easier to store and travel with. The wire-style crate circulates air better and gives us an option of either leaving it open or covering it with a blanket to make it more like a den. As a guide dog puppy raiser, we are given exact steps on how to crate train our puppies. When properly used, the crate becomes a security blanket, a place where the puppy can retreat to escape the household confusion and to feel secure. Never use the crate as a form of punishment! Zoom Zoom! Crate Training your Golden Retriever puppy. The dog crate should offer a positive, secure environment, and a calming zone. The crate can be effective for in-house training. Confined to a crate, an unattended puppy cannot destroy or soil anything. Do not crate the puppy during the day for more than 3 hours. Start crate training your puppy on his first night. Place the crate in your bedroom where the puppy can still see and hear what is going on. Put a blanket or towel in the crate for bedding. It worked great with our most recent golden retriever puppy, Charlie. A pup will rarely soil the crate, however, if he does, try removing the bedding. A crate should not be too big, but large enough for the puppy to stand stretch, and turn around. If he should happen to fall asleep somewhere else, pick him up and place him inside, and quietly shut the door. Do not hesitate to periodically use the crate, even while you are home. You may feed the puppy in his crate and give him some favorite toys, to keep the experience positive. We feed all of our pups Wellness Core Puppy Food. Working on crate training — Puppy Paws! When it comes time to put your pup in his crate leave the toy or blanket in the crate with the scent of his litter mates this may help your pup sleep better at night. This worked well with Dublin. As soon as he finishes up his business take him straight back to his crate without any playtime or other distractions. Feed Your Puppy Early Make sure you feed him at least an hour and a half before bedtime. Play With Your Puppy Before Bedtime Play with your puppy for an extended period of time just before bedtime to tire him out. A good game of fetch always works well with our pups. Put Your Crate Next To Your Bed Put your crate near the bed we swapped out our nightstands for crates where your puppy can see you and if he starts crying hang your arm down so he can smell your scent. This worked with my rescue puppy, Linus. I slept on the floor next to the crate in my sleeping bag and Linus stopped barking. This will make your puppy more comfortable when he enters the crate. Be careful. Super durable toys like the Nylabone DuraChew have worked well for us in the past. Try doing this with the door open and closed. Lie Next To The Crate With The Door Open Try leaving the door open but lying down across the doorway of the crate as if to nap with him, to make him feel more comfortable in the crate, and at the same time make your body block the doorway. You might try that instead of purchasing a Calmeroos Puppy. It may help soothe your puppy to sleep and save you a few bucks. Just make sure you monitor your pup if you give him a chew he can consume like a Bully Stick. There are many different toys that are designed to help your puppy get used to the crate. Why not try filling a water bottle up with warm water and putting it inside a thick comfy sock extra points if you rub the sock on littermates and mama to get their scent. Hey…you do what you can with the things you have around the house. He is 8 wks and boy has he reminded us how much older we are now. It never occurred to us to use soothing music to help our pups get used to their crate and new environment. Thank you K. Most will calm down after that time. As soon as our puppy is calm we give him praise. However, as I said it depends on your puppy. In this case, we try to take a slower approach to introducing our puppy to the crate. He has to go potty. Most puppies will calm down and stop barking within this time frame. Wait until he stops for at least a split second before you open the door. No Bueno. A Calmeroos Puppy Heartbeat Toy and a blanket. If we have a destructive puppy then we may not want to have anything in the crate. If our puppy is having potty accidents in the crate then we take out the blanket. In our experience, most puppies stop barking in the crate at night after the first days. However, there have been outliers. Our first guide dog puppy, Stetson took four weeks before he stopped barking in the crate at night. On the flip side, our English Cream Golden Retriever pup, Charlie never barked in his crate at night. Puppies will often adjust to their crates based on past experiences. A responsible breeder may have already started crate training puppies before going to their homes. A puppy rescued from a shelter may not have known anything other than the kennel run he grew up in. It depends, every puppy is different. Conclusion Those are my best tips and trick for getting your puppy to stop barking in the crate along with answers to some of the most common questions we get about puppies barking in their crates. How about you guys? Do you have any tips or tricks on how to stop a puppy from barking in his crate? Is this one of your first nights home with your new puppy? Also, we recently put together our New Puppy Checklist detailing all the products we recommend for new puppy owners. It has been updated with new information based on our experiences over the years. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining.

Pumba is our one year old 55 lbs. English bulldog. For the last 3 weeks he has been limping on his left front leg. He is still very active, sometimes he does not even limp and runs and jumps like crazy. Other times the limp is very obvious. We took him to 2 different vets, and it looks like nothing is broken since there is no sign of pain when feeling his leg. He starts limping a bit more when he plays rough or starts jumping off the sofa or sidewalk. We got an anti-inflammatory for 7 days, and some joint chews, but nothing has worked. My girlfriend does not agree with me buying a crate in order for him to rest for a couple of weeks. She suggests we buy a pet gate instead to keep him in the kitchen area which is roughly 8 by 5 feet; I'm just concerned that he will not get enough rest as being in a crate. Do you think the kitchen area rest would be enough for him? Or should I just get a crate for his leg to heal properly for 2 weeks? Click to expand.Crate or gated is fine as long as he stays calm. You have to rest him for a minimum of 2 weeks if not more. If so, then crate. The main thing is running, jumping, etc. So no couch, bed, etc. Also, if possible no long walks, etc. Just quick potty breaks in yard if possible. If he runs around when he goes out, then leash him for back yard. He is such a handsome boy, I'm sure he just sprained or bruised something. The rest will definitely help, and I would still continue the joint supplements, going forward. One of the more common problems can be them limping on the back leg or front paws or showing signs of lameness. Some limping happens after sleeping and it will gradually wear off. No matter what the situation, you should always call your own vet for professional advice if your English Bulldog suddenly starts limping. Why is my English Bulldog limping? Some of the more common reasons why your English Bulldog has started limping will be strains to a tendon, ligament, or muscle — this is the soft tissue injury I referred to earlier and will happen after your English Bulldog has been exerting himself; the limping will start suddenly afterwards. Given time to recuperate, rest, and stop jumping and running, your English Bulldog should be better in just a few days. That means no walkies or indoor play! Check there is no visible bleeding or cuts on the paw. Check for any splinters or foreign objects in the paw. Check to see if your English Bulldog is lethargic and not eating. Check for any visible signs of swelling. When you call your vet, make a note of what you see, if anything. This is particular important if your English Bulldog wakes up from sleeping with a limp and shows no sign of the limp going inside of 30 minutes. Your English Bulldog might start limping after sleeping, laying down and just waking up. Keep scrolling down for the more serious English Bulldog lameness symptoms. Over-exertion: Your English Bulldog could be limping after some particularly excessive exercise. English Bulldogs get worn out very easily and will be exhausted after heavy exercise of just a few minutes. The limping could be due to utter exhaustion so give them water and time to recover. Injured claws: Your English Bulldog might have broken a claw. This injury can be extremely painful, especially if the tear in the claw gets to the nerve ending. Wound to the paw or insect sting: Your English Bulldog might have a splinter in his paw making him limp. It could be an open wound, a stone, chewing gum, or even a insect bite or sting so do a thorough check. Strain or muscle injury: Your English Bulldog might have strained a leg, joint, or muscle whilst playing or even just going about his day to day business. But there are more serious health conditions that limping legs are sometimes attributed to. Breaks, fractures, and dislocations: English Bulldogs are prone to leg injuries due to their genetics and can easily hurt themselves when active. Torn ligaments: Ligament damage will occur after your English Bulldog twists and jumps. It can be very painful but can be treated easily by a vet. Hip or elbow dysplasia: English Bulldogs are prone to these health conditions, being common with brachycephalic breeds. The hip dysplasia can occur in their back leg with elbow dysplasia in the front legs and paws. Luxating patella: This is the medical for a kneecap dislocation. It occurs on the back legs and you will notice your English Bulldog skipping or limping in pain. Inflammatory disease: Also known as panosteitis, English Bulldog puppies will often have this inflammation on their leg bones. You might see your English Bulldog shifting from leg to leg to balance the weight with this lameness condition. Your vet can check for it with a simple blood test. It can be fixed with an operation surgery, and your English Bulldog might even be back and walking inside of 60 days. Arthritis: This condition is most common in older English Bulldogs, where limping is a gradual thing as the joints become more swollen over time. Vets can prescribe therapy and medication for the pain. It can be treated with antibiotics. Valley fever: This is a fungal disease found in the United States and can either make an English Bulldog puppy limp, or an older dog. It is not related to how old your dog is. Neurological disorders: This will often occur after damage to the spine where a disc will touch against the nerves, leading to potential lameness in your English Bulldog. English Bulldog limping on front leg or paws Many of the reasons I have already listed for English Bulldog lameness and limping will happen with the back and front legs. But there are some conditions which will only cause limps to one of the other. For example; elbow dysplasia front legs or hip dysplasia rear legs. Elbow dysplasia front leg limping : This is very common in English Bulldogs and happens due to bone abnormalities in the elbow joints on the front legs. It happens due to cartilage fusing to the bone resulting in an elbow joint being pushed out of place. It will be very painful to your English Bulldog, with obvious swelling. Handy Hint: To keep your Bully free from injury you should not walk them too much. Here are guidelines for daily exercise limits. How vets diagnose lameness and limping Once you have booked an appointment in with your vet, they will do a manual check of your English Bulldog using just their hands. They will press and pull to see what the cause could be. The check will go something like this: Examine the paws for obvious signs of injury. Pull the legs stretched out to check for a reaction. Do gentle massage on all four legs. Lightly apply pressure to the spine to see if the English Bulldog puts up resistance. Talk to a Vet Live Now As we mentioned earlier, there are many reasons why your English Bulldog could be limping either on their back or front legs. To help you understand the causes, we have broken them down into categories to help pinpoint a potential diagnosis! It can be caused by several things, ranging from these common causes to rare and serious conditions! Remember, if you have any concerns, to speak to a vet immediately, as they can offer you tailored advice for your dog. Commonly, any of the following can cause back leg limping: Over-exertion Excessive exercise or even intense playtime can leave your English Bulldog tired and limping. These dogs can get worn out easily and, after a few minutes of heavy exercise, can feel exhausted. Their limping could be due to exhaustion, and usually, some water and time to recover will help with this limping. If it does persist or becomes worse, then be sure to consult a vet. Injured claws Limping can also be a sign of an injured or broken claw. These injured claws can be incredibly painful, especially if the tear in the claw is near the nerve ending. A wound or insect sting Your English Bulldog could have a splinter in their paw, making them limp. An open wound, a stone, chewing gum, or even an insect bite or sting could cause a limp. Be sure to check the paw thoroughly for any signs of a wound or sting. In these cases, you will need to see a vet to clean and dress any wounds and offer medication if needed. Strain or muscle injury Another common cause could be a strained leg, joint, or muscle while playing or even just daily walking and playing. But what about the more serious conditions a limp could be a sign of? Breaks, fractures, and dislocations English Bulldogs are prone to leg injuries, unfortunately. A break, fracture, or dislocation can be extremely painful for your dog, and you must seek medical help. Ligament damage Torn ligaments or ligament damage can occur when your dog twists and jumps. Ligament damage is incredibly painful for your English Bulldog, but thankfully can be fixed easily by a vet! Hip or elbow dysplasia As with other brachycephalic breeds, English Bulldogs are also prone to hip or elbow dysplasia. Hip dysplasia is seen in the back legs, whereas we commonly see elbow dysplasia in the front legs and paws. Luxating patella It sounds like a scary medical term; luxating patella refers to a dislocated kneecap. Inflammatory disease Inflammatory disease or panosteitis is commonly seen in English Bulldog puppies. The inflammation is usually concentrated on their leg bones, and your puppy will be shifting from leg to leg to balance their weight. To find out if your dog has cancer, the vet can perform a simple blood test, and the results are often back quickly. ACL tears often affect the back legs, and you should notice it first when your dog starts to lift their leg. An operation will be required to rectify this tear. The recovery time varies from dog to dog, but you might see your English Bulldog up and walking again within 60 days. Remember to follow the advice of your vet carefully so your dog can recover fully. Arthritis Arthritis is commonly seen in older dogs, where limping becomes a gradual thing. The joints will swell over time, and your English Bulldog can find walking and playing more difficult. Thankfully, it can be treated with antibiotics. Valley fever Valley fever is a fungal disease found in the United States. It can impact English Bulldog puppies or older dogs and leave them limp. Neurological disorders Neurological disorders are often caused when the spine has been damaged. A disc will touch nerves, leading to lameness in your English Bulldog. An injury usually causes this, although it can be caused by too much playtime or a dodgy jump and landing. Limping on Front Leg or Paws, Why? These can be caused by cartilage fusing to the bone, pushing the elbow joint out of place. As you can imagine, that is very painful for your dog and will result in obvious swelling. They will need medical attention to rectify this issue. Hip dysplasia can be quite painful for your English Bulldog, so be sure to take them to a vet if you are concerned about this. What the Vet will do Vet appointments can be traumatic for dogs and owners alike, so having a heads up of what to expect can go a long way to calm your nerves and help you keep your Bulldog calm. When a vet examines your English Bulldog to understand why they are limping, they generally use just their hands. They will press and pull on your dog to see what the cause could be. Often the inspection will follow this pattern: The vet will examine the paws for any signs of injury The legs are pulled to stretch them and see if there is a reaction All four legs are gently massaged to check for abnormalities or signs of pain Pressure is lightly applied to the spine to see if your Bulldog shows any signs of resistance. Generally, this examination is enough, and your vet should be able to offer you a diagnosis and treatment plan. If not, more in-depth tests can take place to diagnose your English Bulldog. It is rare that after these tests have been carried out, a diagnosis has not been found. Be aware that you might need to wait a few days for blood test results to come back, and during this waiting time, your vet will instruct you on how best to care for your English Bulldog. How can I stop my English Bulldog from getting leg injuries? None of us like seeing our dogs limping or in pain, and will do anything we can to avoid it. These can all be incorporated into your daily life easily to keep your dogs from harm. Avoid overworking or over-exercising your Bulldog, especially in hot weather. As you can see, English Bulldogs are prone to limping injuries, ranging from minor to severe. Kerry Kerry White is an avid dog lover and writer, knowing all there is to know about our furry friends. Kerry has been writing for PetDT for three years now, wanting to use her knowledge for good and share everything she can with new dog owners. Kerry has two dogs herself - a German shepherd called Banjo and a chocolate labrador called Buttons. Kerry knows more than anyone how adjusting to new life with a puppy can turn your life upside down, and she wants to ease some of the burdens through her articles. Read on to find out why your best friend may be limping and how to remedy the situation. Afterward, hold your pet close and try to feel the leg gently while keeping a close eye on the limb that seems to be affected. That initial observation and examination can let you establish the reason why your pet is limping. Some cases of dog limping can be sudden, while others may be gradual. Below are possible causes of limping. Injury One of the most common causes of dog limping is injury. Sometimes dogs get into fights and end up hurting each other, and that can easily lead to limping. The dog may also be involved in some other unfortunate incident that causes injury to the paw, ankle, or leg. Some dog injuries happen right in front of you, making it easy to tell the cause of limping. However, some happen when you are not around, and there may not be any visible injuries to help you ascertain the cause of limping. In such a case, you should consult a veterinary officer for examination and diagnosis. However, severe injuries require veterinarian care. Bone Disease Bone disease generally refers to any condition that affects the bones. This can include diseases such as hip dysplasia and panosteitis. Canine hip dysplasia occurs when bones do not fit correctly into their joints. The result is painful sensations, lameness, and even difficulty in getting up. Panosteitis is a condition that causes inflammation but does not necessarily last for a long time. The condition can make it quite painful for your pet to walk, which causes the limping. Another type of disease that may cause limping is bone cancer, or osteosarcoma. Cancer can affect any dog breed , but it is prevalent in English bulldogs. It is usually quite aggressive, and while there are treatment options, the prognosis is usually bleak. In most cases, limping caused by a disease develops gradually and gets worse as the condition becomes more severe. It is quite difficult for you to tell what disease is affecting your dog, which is why you should seek veterinary advice immediately. Arthritis Just like in humans, dog arthritis is more common in older English bulldogs than younger ones. Arthritis is a condition characterized by inflammation of one or more joints. It usually causes pain and stiffness. When a dog has arthritis, they tend to be reluctant when it comes to going up the stairs or even getting out of the car. They also sleep more and may start gaining weight. With close observation, you may notice that the animal is somewhat unsteady in the morning. This is because the pain from arthritis is more severe in the mornings. Dogs with arthritis tend to walk slowly and lose interest in playing. Lyme Disease Lyme disease is caused by the bacterium Borrelia burgdorferi and spread by deer ticks, as explained by PetMD. The tick generally does not cause the disease unless it is able to attach to your bulldog for 48 hours. If infected, your dog may start limping two to five months afterward. This limp usually develops gradually. Common symptoms of the disease include swollen lymph nodes, swollen joints, and a loss of appetite. Your pet may also be lethargic and can develop a fever. If not treated on time, the condition may become worse. Nonetheless, Lyme disease can be treated effectively using antibiotics. Foreign Object Issues If your bulldog starts limping suddenly, take the time to carry out a careful physical examination. Check for any foreign object stuck in the paw or on any other part of the legs. If the foreign object is on the outer part of the paw or leg, take it off gently to avoid causing injury. However, if the foreign object is embedded, it may be better to let your vet take it out. Neurological Disorders Some neurological disorders can end up causing your dog to start limping. A slipped disc in the spine can put extra pressure on nerves that ultimately makes it difficult for your pet to walk without experiencing pain. Medial Patella Luxation is another condition characterized by poorly aligned muscles, tendons, and bones. This can lead to limping and pain. A vet can examine your dog to determine the exact issues that are affecting them and give a conclusive diagnosis before initiating treatment. Ruptured Anterior This injury occurs when the dog accidentally twists on their hind legs. When it happens, you will notice your pet raising his back leg off the ground and barely touching the ground with it when walking. A ruptured anterior can even affect English bulldogs that are as young as six months old. This condition is usually corrected with surgery. Infections Dog infections can occur when a wound or bruise is not treated carefully. Yeast dermatitis affecting the paws is a condition that can create complications. It is advised to clean any open wounds or bruises and cover them to prevent such unfortunate incidents. The good news is that yeast and other infections can be treated easily. Joint Disorders This is a general term for conditions that affect the joints. Elbow dysplasia is a developmental disorder involving multiple abnormalities that can include poor weight distribution and slowed bone growth. Another joint disorder is cranial cruciate ligament disease which can occur due to a variety of reasons including genetics, obesity, aging, and poor physical fitness. The vet can carry out various tests to determine the exact culprit and start treatment accordingly. For instance, if the dog steps on a hot surface, they may limp as they go across the hot surface. Another reason may be that your dog slept on one of their legs, thus putting too much pressure on it. Pulled, strained and torn muscles caused by overstretching or accidental falls are also a temporary issue that may cause limping. Such situations usually resolve within a few minutes or hours without any outside intervention. In Conclusion For minor injuries or foreign objects stuck in the paws, you can always use the above-noted remedies to get the situation resolved. The vet is likely to ask a few questions that can help establish the possible causes. The vet is also going to carry out physical examinations and, if necessary, take an x-ray scan of the affected area. Once the root cause is established, treatment will begin immediately, and your dog is likely to recover soon. There are several reasons why your English or French Bulldog might be limping. Limping could be a sign of a paw or leg injury, a substantial injury like a broken bone, fracture, or sprain, or a less noticeable injury such as a dislocation, ligament tear, joint trauma, or spinal injury. It could also be caused by a luxated patella. There are some more serious causes that we will explore, but as I always recommend please be sure to have your dog checked out by your vet. This article is meant to help you investigate possible causes not give you medical advice! Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. We only recommend high-quality products that are used and recommended by real owners. If you use these links to buy something we earn a small commission. After all, they have short stout legs and sometimes a lot of body weight to carry on those little legs. Bulldogs come with their own unique set of problems when it comes to their health and wellness. Because there are so many possibilities as to why your Bulldog is limping the best way to find out is to have your dog examined by your vet. Dogs are often very good at hiding pain and may only give clues about the pain they are in when it gets unbearable. There are some things you will need to consider when trying to figure out why your dog is limping. There will also be similar to the questions your vet will ask you when you take your Bulldog in for an exam. Did the limping start all at once, or did it come on gradually? Sudden limping is usually a sign of trauma or injury whereas gradual limping can be a sign of a condition such as arthritis or hip dysplasia. Is it worse during a particular time of the day? Some owners notice that their Bulldog starts limping after they wake up from a nap or a period of sleeping. Where has your dog been walking recently? Hot pavement, broken glass, rocks, thorns, bee stings? Has your dog recently been very active? Did your Bulldog jump from a significant height? Is there swelling or tenderness to the touch? Does any part of the leg feel warm or hot to the touch? If your dog has an obvious trauma, dislocations, breaks, change in the natural position of their leg, any bleeding, or swelling you should seek medical attention for your dog immediately. Depending on how serious the injury is you may be able to address it at home. Your Bulldog may also try to lick the spot that is causing pain. Licking is a way for dogs to try and nurse the wound, but they should be kept from doing it. You can learn more about your Bulldog Licking and what to do in this article! If your Bulldog was stung by a bee then remove the stinger, apply a paste of baking soda and water and then ice the spot. Talk to your vet about giving your dog an oral antihistamine. Superficial injuries can affect any of your Bulldog four legs so whether they are limping on their front leg or back leg, just do a thorough and careful inspection to see if you can find any signs of injury or burn. Trauma or Injury Non-Superficial If you have an energetic fun-loving dog, or maybe a clumsy dog they may be more prone to a deeper trauma or injury. Dogs especially young dogs often ignore their limitations and will jump from high surfaces, run too hard, or try to turn too quickly. This may lead them to overextend themselves which can cause a range of sprains, break, or tears. If Your Bulldog is like my dog I had growing up I swear she had 9 lives just like a cat she may get stuck in a fence, shut in a door, or accidentally run into a wall. The possibilities are endless! Some possibilities include but are not limited to. A pulled tendon or muscle A fractured or cracked bone A sprain Joint Dislocation Bruising Some injuries that may cause your dog to limp may not be so apparent. It will often take a vet exam as well as possible x-rays, or other specialized equipment to understand what is going on. Some deeper injuries could be caused by trauma are. This injury can only happen in the back legs of your Bulldog. A torn ACL requires rest, immobilization, and sometimes surgery. It may be possible for your Bulldog to recover from an ACL tear by wearing an orthopedic brace and getting supplemental support, but depending on how severe the injury is they may need surgery. Luxated Patella Limping in Rear Legs Luxated Patella displaced kneecap is more common in small dogs, but Bulldogs can also be affected. If your dog is overweight they are more likely to develop this problem. Keeping their weight in check can help to prevent it. Depending on the severity your dog may be able to heal from this with rest and an increased nutritional diet. If the condition keeps occurring or gets worse it may need surgery. This is a problem in more common in large breed dogs, but small breed dogs are not immune. Hip Dysplasia causes the hip joints to form improperly and leads to arthritis. If your Bulldog is limping on its back legs or having trouble using its back legs or struggles to get up after lying down it could be a sign of this disease developing. Bone Cancer — Normally appears in the front legs, may make your dog lame and unable to walk. It will be diagnosed by an x-ray and biopsy. Arthritis— This usually happens in more than one leg and in older Bulldog. Your dog may feel stiff and have trouble getting up and down, as well as may not want to jump or go up and downstairs. This happens more subtly and will be diagnosed by a physical exam with your vet. Lyme Disease — If your Bulldog has been bitten by a tick even months ago this could be the cause of their limping. You will see lameness which may seem to move around from one leg to another. Still and Swollen joints, possibly fever. Reduced energy and loss of appetite. Your vet will do a blood test to check for Lyme and if positive start your dog on a course of antibiotics. Vally fever — Another tick-borne illness. You may see lameness of their legs, swelling, coughing, lack of appetite, and low energy. This illness can be dormant in your Bulldog for up to 3 years after a tick bite. Your vet can test for this with a blood test. Treated with anti-fungal medicine. Other signs of these disorders can be circling, excessive pain, dizziness, disorientation, seizures, sudden inability to use legs, or stumbling. Treatments will vary and may include surgery or physical therapy. Treatment for a Limping Bulldog From their Teeth to their Tails we want our Bulldogs to live the longest healthiest life possible, that is why getting treatment sooner rather than later is important. Many of the problems we discussed in this article if caught early and taken care of by your vet will hopefully not leave any long-lasting problems for your four-legged friend. If your dog is showing any other signs or symptoms with the limping such as any in this list please call your vet right away. Pain and discomfort.

Red eyes in dogs can happen for number of different reasons. Common causes include allergies, an injury, dry eye or a foreign object in the eye. Sometimes red eyes are no real problem. But others need an immediate trip to the vet. Corneal Ulceration The cornea is the clear membrane over the front of the eye. If your dog gets a foreign body in her eye or manages to scratch the cornea, it can allow a bacterial infection to attack. The bacteria dissolve the cornea as they grow. This is very painful. Note: If you have a Brachycephalic flat-faced breed, her eyes stick out more than is healthy. So Brachy breeds often develop ulcers that are chronic. The symptoms may be less obvious. The eye should return to normal in 12 to 24 hours. If you see these signs, please take your dog to the vet as soon as you can. If your dog swims in the sea or a chlorine pool, that can do the same. This will usually be fairly mild. It should resolve quickly once you move away from the irritant. Red Eyes And Dog Allergies If your dog has atopy allergy to pollens, etc she may get hay-fever like symptoms, such as: Inflammation. Scar tissue and blood vessels slowly invade the cornea of the eye from the corner of the eye and can turn it black in severe cases. Experts believe that it is caused by an unknown immune response that increases in severity with exposure to high levels of ultraviolet UV sunlight. It is most often seen in middle-aged German Shepherds, Belgian Tervurens, Siberian Huskies, and Greyhounds, but it can occur in other breeds of dogs. If left untreated, this disease can eventually lead to blindness. Causes The direct cause of pannus is unknown, but there are a few contributing factors: 1. An increased occurrence in certain breeds indicates a genetic component to the disease. Chronic superficial keratitis is thought to be an autoimmune disease. There is some evidence that irritants in the air and underlying eye problems may also contribute to this disease, such as entropion, or inward-turned eyelids. Signs and Symptoms Pannus usually begins at the corner edge of the cornea, advances inward and may extend across the entire eye resulting in blindness in untreated and severe cases. If your dog develops pannus, he may exhibit the following signs and symptoms: 1. Red, blood-shot eyes. Excessive tearing and weeping. A grayish-pink film covering the eyes. Coloring of the cornea, usually dark brown or black. Opaque cloudiness of the eye. Thickening and loss of color of the third eyelids. Although the disease occurs in both eyes, each eye may be at a different stage of the disease. Fluorescent staining of the eye rules out corneal lacerations and ulcers. A Schirmer Tear Test measures tear production. Testing of the pressure behind the eyeball [Intraocular pressure testing IOP ]. Your veterinarian may also recommend certain blood tests to help determine any underlying issues. These may include: 1. Complete blood count CBC to check for: anemia, inflammation, and infection. Chemistry tests to check: blood sugar levels and liver, kidney, and pancreatic functions. Infectious disease tests, such as those for Lyme disease, Leptospirosis, and Ehrlichiosis. Bacterial cultures. PCR testing. Therapy and Disease Management Unfortunately, there is no cure for pannus at this time. If caught early, the progress of the disease can be suspended and the symptoms can be managed over the long term. However, scarring and discoloration of the cornea usually irreversible. Therapy strategies are implemented to reverse invasion of blood vessels into the corner and to prevent further scarring and pigmentation of the cornea. Types of therapy: 1. Topical immunotherapy - Immunosuppressant drugs, such as tacrolimus or cyclosporine eye drops or eye ointment may improve symptoms. These can be used in coordination with corticosteroid therapy. Corticosteroid therapy - recurrent injections under the conjunctiva of the eyes in conjunction with continuous application of eye drops or eye ointments. This is the main line of defense against progression of the disease. Therapy is usually successful but must be continued lifelong. Surgery - In cases of severe scarring and pigmentation, surgical removal of a surface layer superficial keratectomy from the affected eyes may improve vision. Unfortunately, this procedure cannot be repeated and recurrence of the disease is high, so this method remains a last resort. Radiation therapy - Beta irradiation is a last ditch effort to forestall the progress of the disease. As with any medication, there are potential side effects. Some drug complications to be aware of are: inammation of the conjunctiva conjunctivitis , corneal ulceration, and corneal mineralization, just to name a few. The majority of dogs do very well with topical medications. Some dogs with more severe cases of pannus may need a referral to a licensed veterinary ophthalmologist for more intensive treatments. Long Term Outlook and Prevention Because there is no cure, pannus is managed with symptom therapies. Treatment must be maintain for the life of the dog and is necessary to maintain vision. Limited exposure to ultraviolet light is also recommended for long-term control of the disease. Sheltering your dog while outdoors; walking him in the early morning hours, after dusk, or in shaded areas, and keeping him in your house and out of direct sunlight will help keep the disease in check. There are also specialty canine sun goggles that can be used if your dog has to be outdoors for an extended period of time. Discover the online program that more than 57, dog owners have used to rapidly transform their dog into a well-behaved, obedient furry friend. Return from Pannus in Your German Shepherd to German Shepherd health "You cannot share your life with a dog, as I had done in Bournemouth, or a cat, and not know perfectly well that animals have personalities and minds and feelings. Is it time to go to the veterinarian? Short answer: maybe. You will rest easier when your vet figures out why your dog has red eyes, and your dog will be a lot happier if he is cured. Furthermore, things can get worse quickly and it is better to be safe than risk your dog going blind. What Causes Red Eye in Dogs? Dogs get red eyes for a lot of the same reasons that people do. Some reasons are relatively harmless — like allergies or dryness. Other reasons, like eye infections or glaucoma, are emergencies that need immediate treatment to avoid permanent vision loss or blindness. If your dog has red eyes and is blinking, squinting, tearing up and avoiding bright lights, there may be something in his eye. You may be able to determine this by gently lifting his eyelids to check for debris, scratches, or bleeding. If your dog has red eyes but otherwise seems healthy, it may be a less obvious problem. Long-haired dog breeds can get eye redness if the fur around their eyes is poking and scratching the eyeball. And while many pooches love sticking their head out of a car window, bugs and dirt can hit them in the face, or the wind can cause severely dry eyes. As a general rule of thumb, eyes that are more bloodshot are more likely to be a medical emergency. Red eyes are not normal, especially if they do not go away in a few hours. If you are not sure how much of the eye is affected, gently lift the eyelids and look for rosy-colored, pinkish or bright red instead of white. The following conditions can also cause red eyes. Symptoms of conjunctivitis in dogs include eye redness, mucous, yellow-green pus or a watery eye discharge. There are many things that can cause conjunctivitis in dogs, including allergies, injuries, birth defects, tear duct problems, dry eye, distemper , or even tumors in rare cases. Eye Infections Red eyes are a common symptom of eye infection in dogs. Just like in humans, a lot of things can cause dogs to get an eye infection. Dogs can get red eyes from viral infections like distemper, herpes, hepatitis and the flu. Bacterial infections that cause red eyes include brucellosis, leptospirosis, and tick-borne diseases like ehrlichiosis or Lyme disease. Red eyes can also be caused by fungal infections. Fighting or Rough Play If your dog was in a fight with another dog or another animal, you may find bruising, scratches, or bite marks around his eyes. Because these injuries have a high risk of infection, you should take your dog to the veterinarian the same day. In the meantime, you can also put a cool compress on his eye for 10 minutes to reduce swelling and pain. Objects Penetrating the Eye Unlike humans, dogs have a third eyelid that can develop redness if debris is trapped under the eyelid. If this is the case, you probably will not be able to see the debris. A vet will need to identify and remove it. If you see an object that has penetrated the eye, your dog needs to go to an emergency vet right away. Before you go, put a bandage over the eye, or an Elizabethan collar plastic cone if you have one to keep your dog from scratching the eye and making the problem worse. Scratches on the Eye You should also go to the veterinarian if you see a scratch on the eye. Take your dog to the vet the same day if possible. Chemical Burns If a dog with red eyes was exposed to toxic chemicals, he may have a chemical burn. You will need to flush the eye with clean water for 10 minutes and bring your dog to the veterinarian for an examination. If you are not sure what chemical your dog was exposed to, there are some commons chemical that may be the culprit. Laundry detergent soap, and pesticides are often the cause. Eyelid Swelling Dogs with red eyes may also have physical problems, like eyelid swelling. Eyelid swelling is usually a sign of a physical injury, like hitting a twig while running, over-scratching, or getting into a fight with a cat or another animal. Glaucoma Glaucoma is one of the most serious reasons why dogs get red eyes. Glaucoma in dogs occurs when pressure builds up inside the eyeball like an over-inflated balloon. This can damage to the retina and cause permanent blindness if the pressure is not reduced, so seeing a vet is a must. They usually occur from direct injury to the eyeball or from an infection with bacteria, fungus or a virus. Dogs can also get corneal ulcers from chemical burns if they were sprayed in the face. Corneal ulcers can cause blindness and they must be treated at a vet. Allergies Like people, dogs can get red eyes and sniffles from breathing in allergens such as dust, pollen, mold and mildew. Your dog may suffer from allergies seasonally or year-round. Allergies may seem innocent enough, but it is still a good idea to go to a veterinarian because many eye conditions resemble an allergy and it can be hard to tell the difference. If an allergy is indeed the diagnosis, your veterinarian may prescribe anti-inflammatory medications , antihistamines, or seasonal allergy shots. Dry Eye Syndrome Dry eye syndrome, also called keratoconjunctivitis sicca or KCS , is dryness of the lining of the eyelid, eye covering, and cornea. Some medications can also stimulate tear production to mitigate eye redness. Tear Duct Issues Tear duct problems can cause the area around the eye to become red, irritated, or swollen. Redness can occur due to lack tears because the duct is blocked. If you think your dog has a blocked tear duct, you need to go to the veterinarian for an in-depth eye exam to find out what is causing the problem. Blocked tear ducts can be caused by scar tissue from an infection, inflammation of the tear sac, injury to the eye, tumors, birth defects or an eyelid turned inward. Red Eyes After Swimming Dogs can get red eyes from swimming in the ocean, stream, lakes and pools. This is usually due to irritation from salt-water or bacteria in fresh-water. Ponds and lakes may also contain toxic blue-green algae, or dangerous chemicals like fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides. Dogs who spend a lot of time swimming in chlorinated pools commonly develop red eyes, itchy skin, or even lung irritation — especially if the pool is located in a poorly ventilated area. If the redness does not go away after a few hours, your dog may have an infection or a chemical burn on the eye that needs to be seen by a vet. Canine Anterior Uveitis Uveitis is an inflammation in the interior part of the eyeball. The symptoms include eye redness, cloudiness, blood inside the eye, and sensitivity to light. If any of these symptoms are present, you need to take your dog to the veterinarian. Many things can cause uveitis, and if left untreated, it can lead to blindness. Fortunately, uveitis is treatable with oral steroids and glucocorticoid steroid eye drops. Canine Distemper Dogs with red, bloodshot eyes that look glassy may have canine distemper. These dogs usually have other symptoms like weakness, discharge from the eyes and nose, dry cough , fever , and lethargy. The canine distemper virus is highly contagious, as it spreads in the air — though puppies who were immunized with the distemper vaccine have a very low risk. In non-vaccinated dogs, or dogs with vulnerable immune systems, distemper can cause death in as few as five weeks. A prompt diagnosis and treatment by a veterinarian is critical. Hepatitis Infectious canine hepatitis liver inflammation is a disease in dogs that is caused by a virus. The eye redness is caused by inflammation and the death of cells in the front of the eye anterior uveitis. It sometimes progresses into glaucoma with corneal ulceration — resulting in permanent vision loss or blindness. If you see any of these symptoms in your dog, go to the vet immediately. Some dog breeds — such as Bloodhounds and Basset Hounds — tend to have red eyes all the time. Certain dog breeds are more likely to get red eyes because of dryness or blocked tear ducts, like Poodles and Cocker Spaniels. Treatment is not always necessary — but your dog should always be seen by a vet. Short-nosed dog breeds, such as Shih Tzu , Pekingese , Maltese , and Pugs , are susceptible to developing red eyes as a result of ingrown hairs in the skin folds around the eyes. Your veterinarian will determine the best way to treat the underlying problem. Some eye conditions will heal on their own, while others require surgery. Red eyes are fairly common in dogs. The reasons could be many. Sources: Geier, Elisabeth. Are you concerned about what might be causing this clinical sign in your pet? However, in some instances, red eyes may not be a serious cause for concern. .Causes of Red Eyes in Dogs Listed below are the top 6 causes: Allergies Allergies are by far the most common cause of eye redness in dogs. Some dogs have seasonal allergies , and some have allergies that last all year long. If you suspect that your dog may have allergies, take him to the vet to be diagnosed. Your vet may recommend regular allergy medication if your dog has severe allergies. Otherwise, your dog may just need a shorter course of eye drops or other types of medication to treat any allergic flare-ups that may occur. If your dog gets any type of irritant or object stuck in its eye, it will cause discomfort and redness until the object is removed. This is similar to a human getting a piece of dirt or an eyelash trapped within the eye. Most of the time, the redness and pain will go away as soon as the object is removed. However, in some cases, an object in the eye could cause scratching or damage that may need to be seen and treated by a vet. Trauma Trauma to the eye can cause a wide range of problems. Most of the time, dogs who suffer from some type of eye trauma experience a cut or scratch on the eye. However, some eye injuries can be very severe and may even result in the loss of the eye, especially if left untreated for too long. If your dog is injured on or around his eye, take him to the vet right away. Even if the injury is not serious, it is important to get it checked out and eliminate the risk of further infection. Glaucoma Glaucoma is an eye condition that causes a buildup of pressure within the affected eye. Most dogs have glaucoma only in one eye at a time, but some may experience it in both eyes at once. Glaucoma can eventually lead to blindness if left untreated, and it can be a serious problem for some dogs, too. If your dog seems to have a lot of eye pain and discomfort along with his eye redness, glaucoma could be the problem. Talk to your vet for a formal diagnosis of glaucoma and recommendations for treatment and management. Pinkeye in dogs is very similar to pinkeye in humans, and it may cause similar symptoms too. Some of the symptoms of pinkeye include pain, itching, swelling, and crust or drainage from the eye. Pinkeye can be easily treated with the help of medicated eye drops. You will need to take your pet to the vet to receive these drops. In severe cases, your vet may also recommend oral medication along with the eye drops to help clear up the problem fast. Some dogs may not be affected by cherry eye very much, but others may show signs of pain related to this problem. Your dog may need to undergo surgery to correct cherry eye. Your vet can give you more information about the proper treatment or management of this condition and can let you know if your pet is in need of surgery or not. Some dogs can live perfectly normal lives with cherry eye. The good news is that most of these problems are nothing to worry about. The few that are more concerning can often be treated with the help of a trusted vet. If you want more information or advice, contact VEG by calling one of our locations.

Remind children to be calm and gentle. One of the healthiest things you can do for your puppy is give pup lots of love and attention lots and lots of attention. Dogs are extremely loyal by nature and are happy when they please you. Studies show that emotionally, dogs benefit from being petted by humans as mush as humans do from petting dogs. So spend time with your little companion. Melanies Gorgeousdoodles Puppies, my loving passion The first few months are very important for establishing good habits. It is always best to be prepared and read up on the best early training skills. Remember you have to train yourself and your family to be consistent! Here are some things you can do to help your Labradoodle pup feel as comfortable as possible. Teach children to always when hand feeding puppy dog a treat to do so with food in palm -of -their -hand. Many commercial foods are acceptable but be sure to choose a well-balanced one without any grians and no corn meal. Exercising doodle puppy Exercise is an important part of labradoodles overall health Puppy develops good motor skills and balance and life skills from being out and about. Playing games such as fetch challenge a puppy mentally. Remember, exercising helps puppy go poop so take a poop scoop. Rinse thoroughly and stand back — doodle will shake and shake! Grooming Brushing or combing with a wide tooth comb your Labradoodle regularly keeps his coat looking nice and it feels good to your doodle. And just as important, this is time for you puppy to bond. Important that you keep or have a groomer your doodle hair trimmed a little around their eyes, month and privates. There are lots of good book on dog training! Her website has a lot of excellent resources. Click to find link to order Virbac products for the best price. Fatigue Behavior changes loss of appetite, reluctance to engage, etc. If you notice any of these signs, make an appointment with your vet so they can perform screenings such as chest x-rays, blood tests, and an echocardiogram an ultrasound of the heart and nearby blood vessels to assess the issue. The condition can be serious if left untreated, but thankfully there are many treatment options available, such as diet therapy and medication. What To Feed a Labradoodle To live a long and happy life, Labradoodles must consume the proper amount of high-quality dog food and have access to fresh water. A balanced diet will help your pup maintain a healthy weight and avoid health conditions such as heart disease and hip dysplasia. If a pet parent is willing and able to cook for their dog, Whittenburg suggests a fresh, homemade diet that has been formulated by a board-certified veterinary nutritionist. Boutique brand and grain-free foods should be avoided. That includes servings of food in the right amount that provides more than 40 nutrients that pets require in their respective life stages, including proteins, fats, carbs, and vitamins, minerals, and independent amino acids, according to the Pet Food Institute. While there is no one-size-fits-all way to feed a Labradoodle and a consultation with your vet is recommended, Whittenburg says Labradoodle puppies under 6 months old should generally be fed a minimum of three times a day and adult dogs should be fed twice a day. Unless recommended by a veterinarian, dogs fed a complete and balanced commercial food diet should not need any nutritional supplements. However, Labradoodles that are fed a homemade diet may require supplements to ensure they are getting all the vitamins and minerals necessary to thrive, including omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, glucosamine, and a variety of antioxidants. Behavior and Training Tips for Labradoodles Labradoodle Personality and Temperament The high-energy, attention-seeking, intelligent Labradoodle requires frequent exercise, interaction, and play. While every Labradoodle is different, proper socialization is a must for helping your dog become a well-behaved companion. These dogs are not known to be excessive barkers, but the right amount of training and exercise is required to ensure they learn to behave appropriately. Labradoodle Training Because Labradoodles are a hybrid of two highly intelligent breeds, they are eager to please and highly trainable, according to Philippou. They can be taught to excel at everything from basic tricks like sit, stay, and roll over to running agility courses. Always use positive-reinforcement techniques, like using treats to reward good behaviors, during training. Due to their gentle and sharp-witted nature, Labradoodles can even be trained to become service dogs. Fun Activities for Labradoodles. Training We Recommend: A Great Beginning: We start to train and work with our puppies from the first day, socializing as well as following the suggested guidelines of the best trainers in the US. We have a well researched program of using sounds, small tasks, toys and other materials to influence and help your puppy be an easy going, fun loving, social and well trained adult. Trainers tell us that the most important time for your puppy is between 8 and 11 weeks so we work with you to understand what you can do to continue to prepare your puppy for the world. Training: We recommend training your puppy as much as possible. The best puppies know their boundaries and are taught what is expected with love and devotion. The sooner your puppy is trained the sooner it is given more freedom. Therefore, strict training results in big rewards for puppy and owner. Labradoodles are easily trained. They should be completely potty trained within 4 to 6 weeks after pick up. Most are sitting, staying, shaking paws, and retrieving by 3 months of age, many can get the newspaper and more by then with proper attention. Puppies will jump up and it takes time and consistency to break this habit early. Crate training or room training is recommended: First I will cover crate training then room training. Crate Training: First get over the fact that to you it is a cage, to them it is a safe place when they are alone, safe from outside things and noises puppies have yet to become fearless of. They view it as their cave, a place they can sleep with the peace of mind. The crate should be just big enough for them to stand up, walk in a circle, and lay down. This is a different size at 8 weeks as it is at 4 months. Therefore I like something like the Life Stages Ultima Triple Door Folding Dog Crates from Petsmart where there is an additional wall that can be adjusted to increase the crate size as the puppy grows. It should contain toys. Bedding is typically used to pee on so do not use bedding until later once the dog can easily go all night without "going". I think the crate should be in a room, a selected safe room that later when the crate is no longer used becomes the place that when visitors come over who are not "dog people", the dog would stay in while these visitors are there. The first night the crate can be in a bedroom close to people and then later moved into the safe room if you desire. Some puppies pee in their crate at first and some don't, have patience. The point of the crate is to discourage peeing for a period of time. First crate the puppy for an hour or two and at night, then gradually longer. The point is to take the dog out before it has to go to the bathroom and as time goes by it can hold it longer and longer. Never more than 4 hours except at night when at first I recommend you get up twice during the night and let the puppy out, after two days wait and let the puppy out once in the middle of the night, gradually extend the wait time an hour until finally they have gone all night. After a few months I recommend graduating to room training. Remember to remove food and water an hour or more before leaving the dog in the crate, the puppy should be let outside and empty when left in the crate. Room Training: Select a safe room that when visitors come over who are not "dog people", the dog would stay while the visitors are there. For example, an extra bathroom or utility room. It should contain a wee pad if needed and toys. Bedding is typically used to pee on so do not use bedding until later. Some puppies pee in their space at first and some don't, have patience. This is the reason for the wee pad, see "wee pad" for how this is used and gradually removed. The point of the room is to discourage peeing for a period of time and keep them out of trouble. First confine the puppy for an hour or two and at night, then gradually longer. The room should be used up to a year when you are gone and at night. The sooner the puppy is trained and you can trust them the sooner they have free roam of the house. Remember to remove food and water an hour or more before leaving the dog, the puppy should be let outside and empty when left in the room. Wee pads: We put wee pads in the utility room when the puppies move into there, the wee pad is placed to one side. They have some chemical that draws the puppies.Take them out as much as possible; the point of the wee pad is an emergency situation only. Eventually they only use the wee pads at night. I suggest the wee pad be placed close to bed, in their "room" or at the back door in case someone doesn't notice them at the door. It works like this, and please don't punish them for using the wee pad but don't congratulate them either, congratulate them when they go outside. Eventually they select to please you versus the wee pad and then they just stop using the wee pad. When it is dry for a few days take it away.Food: We recommend free food and water all day if you are home. We use the best puppy food available. We do not feed people food to our dogs ever, some things you would never imagine are actually toxic listed below. When you pick up your puppy we give you a bag of food so you can continue it or mix it with whatever you desire slowly decreasing the amount of our food over time. But understand what you are feeding your dog. To find a good food read the first 5 ingredients on the bag. Now ask the following questions: What are the protein sources? We believe the primary source should come from quality animal protein, not vegetable protein or grain. Foods that list 2 or more grains in the first 5 ingredients may have more vegetable protein than animal protein. We prefer Chicken as the main ingredient. What about grains? Two or more grains listed in the first 5 ingredients means your food may have more vegetable protein than animal protein. Grains such as soy, corn, corn gluten and wheat gluten can be difficult to digest, which means less nutrition, possible allergic reactions and more clean up. Wheat, barley, rice, corn and oats are all man-raised crops that a dog would never eat in the wild. These ingredients are not properly digested and in many situations cause a dog to show allergy symptoms. Are there by-products? Some manufacturers consider by-products inferior sources of protein and, depending on the source, they can be difficult to digest. These ingredients contain meat sources that are typically unsuitable for human consumption. What are the fat sources? Some fats are better than others. We believe the primary fat source in dog food should be animal based because animal fats contain a profile of fatty acids that are easily metabolized and thus are generally more available to the body. We use Madden pin brushes on our labradoodles and have found this brush to be excellent quality. If you catch them in play mode during the day, you will only be reinforcing that brushing time is something to get all riled up about. Nail Clipping Clipping their nails is also a good exercise to do when you find them tired out. They tend to care a lot less about things. You can start by just clipping the nails on one paw. This way your pup learns this is quick and no big deal. It also gives you the opportunity to practice this exercise 4 days in a row, rather than once and then having to wait for them to grow again. When clipping, clip just the tip of the nail where it starts to curve downward, holding the nail clippers parallel to the bottom of the paw. Be careful not to clip too much, otherwise it will hurt and the nail will bleed. Lean towards clipping little bits more often than trying to get a lot off all at once. Ear Cleaning Ear cleaning is something that labradoodles need since they have those long ears that trap and hold in moisture. Check their ears every few weeks and if you notice they look dirty, then get a cotton ball or makeup remover pad, etc. Never push anything down in the ear, you could damage the ear and cause your puppy pain. Do the other side, and finish with an ear drying powder. In fact, over bathing can harm this quality in their coat, and actually cause you to need to bathe more often. If they get dirty, let them dry and simply brush the dirt right out. It is good to get them used to getting wet though, and when you do use shampoo, we recommend a tearless shampoo specifically designed for dogs as their PH balance is different than humans. A good minute walk daily will meet this need your new family member has. Up until then, their joints are developing and jogging on pavement would not be good for their joints. However, this does not mean you have to limit their activity. Running across the yard chasing a ball at their own pace and will is good for their developing body, and talking walks through the neighborhood is an excellent way to meet their exercise needs. Contact General Information and Canine Behavior The pages within the Homecoming Prep segment of our website are private and can only be accessed through the link provided through email and through the link on the Prepare For Puppy page. The button on this page is titled Homecoming Prep. Once you are in the Homecoming Prep section of the website you will need to use your back button to navigate the pages and return to this Homecoming Prep home page. General Information The following links and attachments include general information concerning your puppy. This will help you prepare for your puppy's arrival and get you started on the right foot. Click each page above to see a larger image in a readable size. Puppy Behavior The following links and attachments include general information on caring for your puppy. Please be sure you, your children and all family members understand the signals your puppy is giving you. The puppy is not a toy and not meant to be held at will. Set limits on how many times a day no more than 4 that your child can hold the puppy. Children should only be allowed to hold the puppy if they are seated. Too much handling can physically hurt the puppy as well as begin the process of the puppy not tolerating your child. No walking around carrying the puppy. This is true for all children under 8. Puppies will chew on and sometimes ingest toys. If ingested, the pieces can lodge and cause your puppy to have to undergo surgery that is not always successful. Puppies generally do NOT like to be hugged. Puppies will jump up on people. There are two primary responses that most dogs will respond to. The first is to cross your arms, hiding your hands, and turn around showing the dog your backside and being very still. If your dog continues to jump on you they are not responding to this method and you should not continue trying it. Instead, step right into the space where there front paws are on the ground, being careful not to step on their feet. Repeat this behavior each time your dog jumps and instruct all people who your dog interacts with to do this same thing. Puppies and dogs in general will feed off of the people around them. Those who are very exciteable and talk in high pitched tones will create a dog who responds to seeing people by becoming super amped up and difficult to follow simple commands. Try to limit this. It's not in the puppies best interest to repeatedly be encouraged to escalate the excitement level to this high level. This is when the dog will become less focused and less able to follow your guidance. Keep in mind that your dog will feed off of you, your tone and your energy level. But will you recognize the signs? Imagine your puppy is growling at a child. Could you have prevented this from happening? Perhaps, but you have to know what to look for. Click below to learn more. The Family Dog: Stop the 77 Puppy Development Stages Click the link below for a great resource to learn about your puppies development. Once you get to this site, click on Puppies, then development stages. Use your back button to return to this page. This is usually the first place pictures and video show up. We also have a private Facebook page for owners of our puppies. At this time, you can join this group by answering a few short questions. It is titled Legendary Labradoodles Owners Group. There is info about grooming, vet care, training and all sorts of topics. There are links in the footer of this page to our main Facebook page, not the owners group and our instagram account. If you click on the icon it will take you to our pages. The coat and nails of an Australian Labradoodle require consistent maintenance and monthly grooming for them to look and feel their best. The ALAA is proud to share this essential grooming information with your pup! Grooming Your Australian Labradoodle This is a basic grooming video for an Australian Labradoodle and an accompanying manual, provided by the Australian Labradoodle Association of America. They are easily forgotten but must be trimmed like every other nail. If you do not trim them, your dog much more likely to snag them on something and tear them. A torn dewclaw is a very painful thing for your dog and often results in a trip to the vet. If you are not comfortable trimming or feel unprepared to do so, have a groomer or vet show you how. Regular cleaning and care is a must. Hair that rubs against the eye can introduce bacteria, leading to infection. Teeth Care Your dog absolutely requires good dental care. Each dog has different exercise needs, but Labradoodles generally need an hour of physical activity every day. Good options include running, playing a good game of fetch, taking a long walk, or jogging or biking with your dog. Some exercises can actually harm developing joints. When exercising your dog, remember: If your dog is still growing, do not take him or her for long jogs, and definitely do not take him or her with you for a run. Developing joints can be harmed by repetitive motion on hard surfaces. Avoid exercising in extreme heat. If you plan to take water along for you, remember that your dog will need water, too. If your dog seems tired, discontinue what you are doing and allow him or her to rest. Canine health depends on the appropriate balance of nutrients and calories sufficient for prime growth, activity level and cellular repair. Whether you decide on a dry kibble diet, a raw food diet or a combination of the two, be sure that the diet is complete and balanced. We suggest choosing food with high-quality animal proteins, whole grains and vegetables from organic sources. Avoid foods with unidentified fat or protein sources, byproducts, artificial colors, flavors or preservatives, and added sweeteners. Buy healthy, and again, avoid preservatives, fillers or byproducts. Read more about dog diets and health: Whole Dog Journal provides an annual review of the best of the best dry kibble foods. For information about the different types of dog food. Fleas and Ticks Fleas and ticks are a nuisance, and if not taken care of right away, can infest and possibly kill your dog. They spread disease, cause allergic reactions and transmit blood and intestinal parasites. There are many ways to tackle fleas and ticks, and most chemical products are safe if used properly. Specialized products treat individual issues, and some products prevent and kill both fleas and ticks. One product treats for both and also prevents heartworm. A few of the most studied and well-known products: Advantage treats fleas only. Monthly topical. Frontline Plus treats fleas and ticks. Revolution treats fleas, ticks and heartworm. Sentinel treats fleas only. Monthly oral. For those who prefer holistic care, frequent bathing and manual removal of fleas and ticks can help prevent infestation of your home and yard. Use a flea comb and tick remover after each bath. Follow this labradoodle puppy care guide to help with the transition. A few things you might want to have with you when you pick up your puppy are a bottle of water, some baby wipes, and a towel or a blanket. If you are meeting your puppy at the airport, your puppy may be thirsty from the trip. We put a frozen dish of water in the crate, but it is usually long gone by the time your puppy arrives. The wipes are needed in case the puppy may have soiled the crate. The towel or blanket also, in case the puppy has soiled the crate, is for you to hold your puppy or to put in the crate. Using a Leash to Bond with Your Puppy When your puppy first arrives to your home, we suggest you keep the puppy on a leash for the first couple of days. Do your best to have the primary caregiver be the main person handling the leash. We also suggest you not have outside visitors to the home for the first couple of days. Give your puppy some time to adjust to her new family first before she meets your world. Your puppy is going to be a little confused at her new surroundings. From the beginning your puppy needs to learn that she is at the bottom, below even the youngest child. She needs to learn who her main leaders are and what the boundaries are in her new home. Labradoodles are people loving dogs! Your puppy will want to bond. Your puppy is smart and will quickly learn that the person attached at the other end of the leash is important to her. Your Labradoodle will look to you for example and comfort. She will learn that you are her source of not only example and comfort, but also food! Using the leash these first few days will help your new puppy learn who to trust and who to please. Other Advantages of Leash Training Your New Puppy Even if you are not holding onto the leash, you can control where she goes easily by stepping on the dragging leash. This is much more comfortable to a dog than having you lunge over her to get her. Keeping her on a leash also allows you to monitor where your puppy is in the house, and help her learn which rooms you would like her to be in and where she is not allowed. Lastly, having her on a leash helps her adjust to the idea of a leash so that she is ready to be trained to heel on a leash. A crate can be a useful and comforting tool or it can be an overused source of misery for your puppy. We suggest using a crate for very short periods of time during the day and for your puppy to sleep in at night. During the day there will come short periods of time where you have a task to do that requires your full attention. While your puppy is still in the house training stage, the crate can be very valuable to you. By putting your puppy in the crate for short amounts of time during the day, say an hour, maybe two, you can accomplish what you must do and also help puppy control her bladder. As soon as you let her out, immediately take her outdoors to relieve herself. Using the crate this way will encourage her to only go to the bathroom where it is appropriate to go. If your puppy is not crate trained already, you will have to work up to the hour or two hour mark. By the time your puppy arrives, she should be able to sleep around 7 hours through the night in a crate. Of course all puppies are individuals and so the time can vary. Your Golden Xpress Labradoodle puppy is used to being in a crate, but she is also used to smelling and hearing her siblings nearby. She may have adjustments to make in her new home because of this. Another factor in labradoodle puppy care is that their little tummies often get upset over the first couple of weeks in their new homes. To help her adjust to your home atmosphere and sleeping during the night, keep her crate in your bedroom at night. Keeping your hand down by the wire door is comforting to her. Responding to her cries with talking or tapping encourages your puppy to cry and whine more. Tapping on the crate lightly is ok, but not in response to her noise making. Another thing to think about with regard to labradoodle puppy care is if your puppy starts to wet her crate, you need to first check and see if her crate is too big. Generally, dogs do not relieve themselves in their sleeping places. If so, either use a smaller crate or block part off with a box. If her crate seems the right size, you may need to take out anything like blankets or soft materials. When your puppy has successfully kept her crate dry for a couple of weeks, try putting the bedding back in. Feeding Your Puppy At first, your puppy will need to be fed 3 times a day. Once they have adjusted, offer food to them all day so they learn not to gorge at meal time, and always make sure your puppy has clean, fresh water available to her. Feed your puppy in a quiet place, free from distractions. Put a good amount of food in her bowl and let her eat as much as she would like. After about 20 minutes or so, remove the food. Repeat this morning, mid-day and evening. It helps keep teeth and gums in better shape than wet food does. DO NOT feed your puppy people food. Your food does not provide the nutrition that your puppy needs. She will choose to have the people food and not eat her own. Feed your dog people food and you will have one unhealthy puppy. Just make sure you choose high quality dog treats with some nutrition. At Golden Xpress Labradoodles we give our dogs and puppies different kinds of treats: dog biscuits, dog turkey or chicken jerky. The jerky is good for a training aid around the house — to teach the puppy to come or to sit, or down. They are very intelligent and very willing to learn, and this makes them easier to train. Just remember that they are puppies so be patient. Lots of Loves Above all labradoodle puppy care requires lots of love. Make sure you pet her and hold her so she knows she belongs to your family. Labradoodles are loyal, loving dogs — give your puppy your love and she will return it tenfold. Labradoodle puppy care is something we can help you with! SCL has been breeding and raising Labradoodles since .Our opinion is that puppies should be raised with the sights and sounds of a typical home from day one, since it is typical homes our puppies go to. They should be exposed to as many varied sights and sounds as possible. Our puppies are born in our bedroom. A quiet and safe environment for mama to feel secure in is extremely important. A stressed mama releases stress hormones and her milk is affected, which affects babies. The stress hormones pour through the milk to babies resulting in higher stressed dogs as they mature. It is amazing how stress can negatively impact the development of puppies in so many different ways. We do not allow other dogs into the room, or other people into the room. A mama feeling a threat will quickly jump up and can unintentionally step on and harm, or kill, a newborn puppy. All of these reasons and more are why our pups are born away from the traffic of the rest of the house and in a place mama can relax in and feel safe in. We weigh them daily, check their identifying tags, change bedding, clip nails, etc. Just enough handling that they become used to us, but not so much that they are put under negative stress. Once puppies are about weeks old, we move them from our bedroom to our puppy nursery. The sights and sounds puppies are exposed to increase, but we are still able to control the degree of stress to mama and not have her and babies right in the middle of where people are coming and going through the main part of our home. Like most families, we have people in and out all the time, but we do not want mama feeling strangers are a threat, and we do not want visitors feeling they can handle puppies just because they are in the middle of our home. We control the exposure puppies have at this age and introduce them to things carefully. We want every experience to be a positive one. We want our puppies to be safe from disease and bacteria others may bring into our home. Around 4 weeks, they are introduced to a potty box, they begin eating mush, and they have much more people interaction with our family members or friends that have been taught how to properly handle a puppy, so the experience is positive for the puppy. They are exposed to a variety of musical instruments, as we are a musical family. They hear the radio, sometimes a movie on t. We begin introducing little slides and toys and rotate out daily. At about weeks of age, puppies begin being introduced to the great outdoors. We have a wonderful outdoor play yard with artificial turf, play toys, wading pools, and a variety of toys. Pups experience all sorts of new textures under foot, and have room to run and play. They are introduced to crates without doors and quickly learn to love them as a safe place. When weather does not allow for outdoor play, pups have a 12 x 12 indoor play area with much of the same types of toys and structures. During this time their exposure to outdoor things begins. Lawn mowers, goats, horses, cars, cats, chickens, etc. They are taken for walks in a puppy stroller. They visit the vet office. We increase their level of exposure as is positive for them and do everything we can to make sure they are well adjusted, relaxed, happy puppies. In general, we follow a raising and socialization program designed to slowly increase the exposure and stress to puppy as they are able to cope with it in a positive way. Our goal is to provide families with puppies that have had the best start in life that we can possibly give them. Once they leave our care, it is necessary for families to be committed to continuing this positive exposure and socialization. The next few months are just as critical as the first two. Build on the foundation we started and you will end up with one of the most rewarding experiences and relationships with your dog. This video on our YouTube channel visually walks you through all the things you need to prepare for your new puppy. What should you be doing for your puppy once he has joined your family to ensure you are providing the environment necessary to help your puppy be an outstanding companion? At Spring Creek, we are very careful to provide the appropriate socialization and experiences while raising each litter. It is up to every family to continue the careful raising of their puppy during the following critical periods after the puppy has left us. This document is a great resource for understanding what happens as a puppy develops. It is very important to understand that the risk of parvo is much less than the risk of ending up with a puppy with very serious socialization issues that result in families choosing to give up their dogs later or even have them euthanized due to extreme fear and fear aggression issues. A few of the large guide dog organizations have done studies on the risks of parvo versus the risks of poor socialization and found the risk of parvo to be extremely low compared to fear and aggression issues that resulted from well intentioned people keeping their puppies secluded and isolated until vaccinations were completed. We do not encourage keeping your pup isolated, and we DO encourage as much safe socialization as you can find with your puppy in meeting other people and other dogs. That is a wonderful and rewarding experience, but it does require a lot of work as well as require understanding what you need to allow and need to do in order to prevent problems from developing. This includes testing your children. How can you help your puppy and children get along and help your children know what is appropriate handling of a puppy? The info below is invaluable and every family with a child that wants to adopt a puppy should read these pages as well as talk about these things regularly with your children. If you are not supervising your children with your puppy, or if you are not requiring your children to handle puppy appropriately, you are almost certain to have issues develop. He grabs your pants and hangs on while growling. He growls when you try to take something from him. And, you start to wonder if he was the dominant one in the litter. You are sure you are doing everything right and that there is just something wrong with your puppy. ALL puppies growl, nip, and bite. If children are involved in your home, you should not expect a puppy to respect your child, and it will be up to YOU to supervise and make sure you intervene if a puppy growls or nips at your child. Children are not capable of correcting a puppy in an appropriate manner, and if you tell your child to correct puppy, you will likely make the problem worse. Since puppy knows your child does not have the same authority as you do, they will almost certainly react to being corrected by them and growl or nip or bite even more. They see your children as equals and they are treating them as they would another puppy in their litter. Why would you expect anything different from your puppy? He is not a stuffed animal and he does have a mind of his own. Like your teenage child, a juvenile puppy wants to explore their limits and it can be frustrating. Growling and nipping that is part of the normal communication process for a puppy CAN turn into very concerning behaviors if you do not know how to communicate with them properly. How to train properly using rewards and keeping training fun. Understand methods for correcting behavior that will not result in your puppy challenging you further. Always have a calm and confident attitude. If you have read this and are concerned you may not know how to properly deal with normal growling and nipping, then you need to get professional help involved with you and your puppy as soon as puppy is in your home. If you do not, then look for another trainer immediately. Not all are created equal and a trainer who knows what they are doing will absolutely be able to help you train your puppy, identify problems, and know how to resolve them when they come up. We personally highly recommend hiring a behaviorist to help you with training, not just a normal dog trainer. There is a BIG difference between a trainer and a behaviorist and their knowledge is extremely helpful and useful, especially when it comes to working with normal, but problematic behaviors. All foods are not created equal. Many of the ingredients used in dog foods are fillers that have been shown to be the very reason that so many pets are developing diseases that shorten their life span or make their quality of life less than desirable. Do you really want to feed your dog these foods? We have researched dog foods, and have found that there are companies using high quality, holistic ingredients. Foods that are not made with fillers and poor quality ingredients, but foods that will contribute to helping your dog live a long and healthy life. Also, the Dog Food Advisor online reviews dog foods and is an excellent resource to utilize. The cost of a quality food may initially seem high, but remember that you are feeding less than you would if you were purchasing a cheap grocery store food as their system absorbs more of the food and they eat less, which also results in smaller stools. Your dog is a loved family member and deserves to be fed a quality food that will keep him in good health for a very long time. There are a couple of foods on our recommended list for you to consider feeding your puppy. Three brands are available from privately owned local stores as well as can usually be ordered online. All the below foods are from companies that do not have recall histories, have fabulous food reviews from owners and independent dog food review sources, focus on fresh, quality ingredients, and have years of history proving their reliability, safety, and commitment to providing a quality product. We try to keep this list updated with cost breakdown, but prices vary a bit depending on where you purchase, so the prices below may be slightly different than what you find in a storefront or online store as things change constantly. Our preferred quality, all natural puppy food that does NOT contain chicken, beef, fish, wheat, corn, soy, etc. They frequently have intro discounts and if you set up a couple products on auto-ship you get free shipping! Our preferred adult dog food! Does not contain chicken, beef, fish, wheat, corn, soy, etc. When you receive a puppy from us, our recommendation is to continue feeding the food that puppy is accustomed to for at least a couple of weeks. After a few weeks, changing to another food doing a slow transition at least 7 days is completely fine. Please feed a food that does not contain the ingredients below. These are common sources of allergy, digestive, or other health issues for dogs.

Pandora Labrador Puppy Pendant Charm. Made from sterling silver this playful companion is complete with dangling bone-shaped tag. The perfect way to cherish the beloved Labrador in your life. Presented in official Pandora packaging including gift bag. Orders must be placed before 3pm on weekdays for same day dispatch. All dispatch dates and delivery time-frames exclude Bank Holidays. There may be delivery delays at busy times. Returns If you are unhappy with your purchase for any reason, you may return your item s back to us unworn and with their original packaging within 30 days of receipt. To arrange a return please follow the instructions on our returns page. Secure Payment with SagePay We use the industry leading internet payment company SagePay to protect your card details and protect us from fraud. They adhere to the most stringent levels of fraud screening, ensuring that your details remain secure throughout the transaction process. Sign up to our email newsletter to hear about our latest news, products and special offers To see how we process your data view our Privacy Policy. In order to maintain your health and safety we are not permitting walk throughs. Please view our animals online first before arriving. In Order to Adopt an Animal Come in to our adoption lobby with a list of animals from our website you think might be a good fit for your family. Our adoption counselors will ask you a couple of questions about your lifestyle and day to day life and make some additional recommendations that they think would be a good match for you to meet with. All of our adoptable animals have spent their days inside with us as their temporary family. The vast majority of our animals MUST remain inside animals after adopted, as that is they life they have known and are used to. There are few exceptions to this. If an animal is an exception adoption counselors will know and it will be marked on their animal profile. Why adopt from the Spartanburg Humane Society? The Spartanburg community continues to produce many thousands of unwanted animals every year. We take in approximately 7, unwanted animals each and every year. The Spartanburg Humane Society provides a temporary home for these animals. We need your help to provide them with permanent homes — homes they so deserve! These fees include spay or neuter surgery, permanent microchip identification, vaccines, as well as many other perks — like a free stay at SouthPort Kennels up to 6 days and a personalized pet tag from Paisley Paw! Oh yeah, and a lifetime of love from your new furry family member! Just as important, you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you have helped to give a loving animal a much deserved second chance — a chance they might not have otherwise had. To reach Spartanburg Humane Society Adoption staff call , ext. Adoption hours at the Humane Society map Monday — Saturday: 12pm to 6pm Remember, you will need some supplies for your new pet. If you are adopting a dog you will need a collar and a leash. If you are adopting a cat or kitten you will need a pet carrier. You can purchase much of what you will need at the Spartanburg Humane Society, and all proceeds benefit the homeless animals in our care. Find your next furry family member at the Spartanburg Humane Society Thank you for partnering with the Spartanburg Humane Society to find your next best friend. If you have already found one of our many wonderful pets available for adoption, or your would like to be preapproved for adoption, please fill out the form below. You may also download an adoption application and bring it with you when you come to visit the animals. Adoption Application Please note the following: You must be 18 years of age to adopt Falsifying information on this application will result in adoption denial as well as denial on any future adoption applications The Spartanburg Humane Society reserves the right to deny any application What to expect from the adoption process Visit the Spartanburg Humane Society and get to know an animal who is available for adoption. We have visitation rooms and a fenced area outside where you can spend some time with the animal of your choice. Complete a short online adoption application scroll below or print out our application and bring it with you. This paperwork includes a few simple questions, and requires proof of identity. This is simply to protect the health of adopted animals as well as any pets you already have at home. Have a counseling session with a member of our staff who will explain all the benefits of adopting from the Spartanburg Humane Society. You can ask your counselor any questions about our post adoption veterinary services, and anything else you might wish to know. Sign an adoption contract and pay the adoption fee, which helps to offset the cost of the services provided to you and your new pet. Take your new family companion home! Additional booster vaccinations that a puppy may need after adoption are at the expense of adopter. Bordetella vaccination for protection against kennel cough Rabies vaccination if the pet is four months of age or more a rabies vaccination voucher is issued for pets under 4 months old Up to date flea treatment until day of adoption; additional, inexpensive flea and tick products are available for purchase at the Spartanburg Humane Society Permanent microchip identification including owner registration and ID tag One month free pet health insurance Meet some of our dogs awaiting adoption. Additional booster vaccinations that a kitten may need after adoption are at the expense of adopter. In the last two years we have provided shelter and care to over 1, animals of other species. Rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters, ferrets, reptiles, birds or even fish — we are here for every animal who needs us. If you are looking for a pet like this, we hope you will agree that adoption is the only option! Adoption fees and procedures vary by species, feel free to contact our adoption department if you have a question about adopting one of these animals. Meet our small and furry animals awaiting adoption. Large animal adoptions From time to time, large animal and farm animal species, including horses, goats, cows and pigs also need the help of the Spartanburg Humane Society. The procedures may be a little different, but the mission is the same — just like dogs, cats, and smaller critters, these animals also deserve a second chance. Find Your Next Family Companion. Search All Adoptable Animals The Spartanburg Humane Society is proud to offer a way for potential pet owners to find the dog, cat, rabbit, guinea pig, or bird of their dreams. All of the available Spartanburg Humane Society animals can be searched by species, gender, and age. Our website is updated in real time, which means that as soon as an animal becomes available for adoption, he or she will be visible on the website. Adopted pets are also removed in real time, ensuring that potential adopters are kept up to date on animals who are in need of a home. Please be sure to scroll up and down to see all of our animals! Thank you for choosing to look for your new pet at the Spartanburg Humane Society! There are always many wonderful and loving animals available for adoption. Dogs and cats are most common, but small animals, like rabbits, guinea pigs, and hamsters, are also in need of a new home. Submitting an application does NOT gurantee your adoption of that animal. There are many factors including your face-to-face interaction with the animal, that determines the best home for the animal. This application is a way of letting us know you are interested in a particular animal. Adoption Application Form What is the name of the pet you are interested in?

Adopt a new best friend. By choosing to adopt, you participate in a statewide effort to provide homes for deserving and loyal German Shepherds. We cover all vet expenses and will purchase all needed supplies for your foster dog while they are in your care. Adopt a Dog Help us help future dogs. Donate your time. Campaign for fundraising. Transport dogs to their destinations. Make a difference in the German Shepherd community. Apply to volunteer with us and provide care for German Shepherds that truly need it. Apply to Volunteer We have found homes for hundreds of happy German Shepherds. Below is a list of German Shepherds that have successfully found a new home. German Shepherd adoption has changed our lives, and it can change yours, too. Bodie A friendly German Shepherd with a lovely black coat. Bodie was a lovely, personable German Shepherd that was finally adopted by a loving family after a long battle with homelessness. She also loves engaging in friendly play with cats! Jill Adopted in , Jill became a playful and positive addition to her family. Jill had previously completed behavioral training prior to adoption, making her an asset to any home. Now, she enjoys daily walks to local parks. Mesaba Once abandoned by his previous owner, Mesaba found a loving family in Georgia, who named him Mesaba after their Minnesotan roots. Mesaba now enjoys walks in the park, play time with friends, and a loving family. Giroux After previous domestic issues with cats, Giroux found a home with one of our volunteers. He now enjoys cheering up his new owner, who has previously lost a German Shepherd to age-related difficulties. Abbie After a history of neglect, Abbie was able to recover from her past trauma and find a loving and accepting home in .She now enjoys playing hide-and-find with new toys, playing in the local pond, and being part of her new family. Fletcher After abandonment from his previous owners, Fletcher was finally able to join his new and supportive family. He now enjoys long walks, lots of attention and plenty of space for personal recreation. Matilda Matilda was shy before reaching out shelter - but after some training, she was finally able to come out of her shell! She now spends time with her new family, receiving more love than she could ever imagine! Queen Adopted in , Queen is a playful and positive addition to any family. Queen had previously completed behavioral training prior to adoption, making her an asset to any home. Ike Ike is the life of the party. We are pleased to announced that after years of neglect, Ike was finally able to join a family of his own. Now, Ike enjoys playing with his new owners and enjoying a life of abundant love and affection. She was once abandoned by her previous owners, but with some care and rehabilitation, Lady was able to relocate to a loving family of her own! Schatzi Talk about playful! Schahtzi is a lovely German Shepherd that was able to join a loving family after a past of neglect. Now, she enjoys lots of exercise and good memories with his new family. See More Alumni Give in memoriam. To us, a dog is family. Every pet has a story, how they were rescued and what they meant to us. Tell us your story. If you can help, click here Application to send us your application. Then, email us here foster gsrnc. Not all of our rescue Shepherds are lucky enough to go directly into a foster home; some have to start in a kennel. Every rescue dog must be in a foster home before it can be adopted. In a foster home it will experience the love, care, and attention it needs and deserves while it is waiting to be adopted and we will observe the personality of the dog to help place it in the best possible forever home. Our network of rescue volunteers is there to help you with advice, and Rescue pays for the care of the dog including food and authorized veterinary expenses. Won't you consider fostering a German Shepherd who wants a second chance at a happy life? Fostering is a very rewarding experience, not only for you, but for the dogs too! Join us on October 7th for Wags to Riches! Register now before we sell out! Help us save dogs while putting yourself in the running for some great prizes! Click on the "Lucky Dog" for full details and to order tickets! Shop online at Pet Food Express by clicking on the puppy. Visit Our Dogs on YouTube.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. What are "mismarks" in Labradors? Color oddities "mismarks" have occurred from time to time and have been well documented throughout the breed history of the purebred Labrador Retriever. Such mismarks have includes black and tan markings, brindling, some white markings and ring-around-the-tail markings. It is unknown as to whether mismarks appear because of recessive genes from generations ago or whether they are the result of a spontaneous mutation. Although mismarks occur naturally in Labradors, these mismarks are rare. Breeders attributed this to previous interbreeding of Labradors with Gordon Setters during the early history of the breed. Because this trait was considered undesirable as a characteristic of the breed, breeders chose not to breed individuals expressing the trait in hopes of reducing frequency of its expression in future offspring. Because this allele is recessive, it may be passed through many generations before a breeder is aware that the allele is present. This explains the low frequency of expression of this trait in the current Labrador population. Brindling describes alternating expression of black and red color in the hair throughout the coat. There are several possible causes for this fault that occasionally appears in Labs. Alternatively, brindling in Labs may be the result of what geneticists call a mosaic. A mosaic indicates differences in the somatic tissue of heterozygotes that come about during mitotic division of somatic cells recall from above that somatic cells are those that make-up the body. There are two possible ways by which an individual may become a mosaic. The first is called chromosome nondisjunction by which during division into daughter cells, one of the chromosomes fails to separate from its duplicated chromosome. As a result, one daughter cell receives an extra chromosome and the other receives an unpartnered-chromosome. In either situation described above, the daughter cells of these altered somatic cells will contain the same alterations. As a result, one will observe a mosaic or brindled pattern of normal color mixed with color produced by the altered somatic cells. This condition has been reported in a Lab showing mosaic black and yellow coat color. Rather, this coat characteristic was attributed to a chromosomal alteration as described above. Some white is permissible under the AKC standard and is fairly common. There are several conditions that can produce white hair in Labs. Some of these conditions are determined by color genes and others may be caused by environmental factors that effect melanin production. Certainly white hairs and even patches are easily traced throughout the history of the Labrador Retriever. White Spots To analyze the reason why some black Labs have only a few white hairs on their chests or undersides, while others have white spots or patches, it is best to first understand that all Labs are white the condition of having no melanin. The gene loci for color control both the color of the pigment as well as the distribution of melanocytes throughout the body of the Lab. Therefore, in a black Lab, although color is determined by alleles at the B locus, alleles at the A and E loci determine even distribution of the color over the entire surface of the coat. Therefore, although all Labs should be homozygous for the S allele at the S gene locus, some may still express white hairs on the chest, bottom of the feet and under the arms and groin areas. Bolo Mark "Bolo marks" get their name from champion Labrador, Banchory Bolo, who lived from .Bolo was the first dog in England to earn dual championships. He passed these bolo marks white hairs on the chest or feet on to further generations of Labradors. These marks are not considered a true mismark. Labrador puppies with odd markings could absolutely be mixed-bred puppies. If you consider a mismarked Labrador please educate yourself and make sure the breeder is someone you trust. A yellow lab only appears when the dog has the color gene, "ee. Think of it as a black lab dipped in yellow when it comes to how the coloring works! These are possible gene combinations that will get you a yellow lab with a black nose: eeBB, eeBb The black Labrador Retriever is the first color recognized in the breed, also one of the most popular dogs of all time. The "B" gene has an important role, as does the "E" gene. There cannot be two little "e" genes in a black lab, because that would mask the color and make it yellow. These are possible gene combinations that will get you a chocolate lab: EEbb, Eebb The fox-red Labrador Retriever has the same genetic makeup of a yellow Labrador. The difference is the darker coat color. Through selective breeding, labs can become darker or lighter over generations by choosing the darkest pup from the bunch. The intensity gene varies with labs, and a fox-red lab has a high intensity, "I" gene. While the fox-red lab has a high intensity gene, the white lab has a very low intensity gene, "i. The Dudley Labrador Retriever in simple terms is a chocolate lab wearing a yellow lab's coat! Dudley's have the same "ee" gene as yellow labs with black noses, but they do not have the dominant "B" genes shown in black labs or carried by yellow labs. Instead, they have two "bb" genes. Large breeders avoid Dudley's by never breeding a yellow lab to a chocolate lab how the dudley is made but this significantly restricts the gene pools. Dudley's can have intensity as dark as fox-red or as light as white. The possible gene combination for a Dudley lab is: eebb Dilute. The Champagne Labrador Retriever from a genetic standpoint, is a yellow lab. This can be fox-red, white, yellow, or dudley The difference is a completely different gene that all Labradors have. The dilute gene, seen as "DD" or "Dd" in standard Labradors. Champagne labs have two recessive copies of the gene, being "dd. They can have any of the yellow gene combinations, but with the "dd. The Charcoal Labrador Retriever is a diluted black lab, much how the champagne is a diluted yellow lab. This beautiful dark grey color is seen when a black labrador carries two recessive copies of the "d" gene. An entirely different gene called "K" is responsible for these beautiful markings. All labs have the K gene, but different variations give different results. If you are lucky enough to find a Brindle lab, they are more likely to be a black lab with some brindle marks on their legs. Our own dog Rylee carries the gene for this! This is very uncommon in Labradors, and most breeders that discover the gene in their line, avoid it all together since the dual coat looks far from purebred. But don't fret! Mahner Labs Tomahawk, Wisconsin mahnerlabs gmail. Proudly created with Wix. When both parents have contributed the gene, the pup has lighter tan colored fur above the eyes, around the muzzle, on the chest and legs. Another gene found in Labradors causes tan speckling on the legs and muzzle; this is called brindle. Black and tan and brindle Labradors can be registered with the American Kennel Club, but they can not compete in the show ring as these colors are considered undesirable to the breed standard. The Guiding Eyes breeding colony has been derived in part from the Whygin Labs, a prominent kennel that was very successful with show and hunting dogs in the s. Some of the black and gene coloring stems from the Whygin line. Because we breed for optimum guide dogs, our primary criteria are confident, easy to handle dogs with excellent health and a sturdy conformation. We do not remove dogs from our breeding colony if they produce these coat colors. These pups have the same temperament and health traits as their solid colored littermates. Additional information on coat color inheritance: Black, chocolate and yellow Labrador coloring are the result of the interaction of two genes commonly referred to as the E yellow gene and the B brown gene. A dog with ee two recessive copies of the yellow gene is yellow. The B gene is turned off. This turning off or hiding the expression of another gene is called epistasis. For dogs with Ee or EE, the B gene is turned on. A black dog results from BB or Bb. A chocolate dog results from bb Another gene present in all Labs is the K gene, which has several variations. KB is responsible for solid coloring, as we see in nearly all Labradors. The most recessive version of K is ky; two copies of ky will allow another gene, A agouti, to express itself in a number of patterns commonly seen in other breeds, such as tan points. A single copy of KB is epistatic to, or sufficient to hide, all the genetic information of the A gene. Nearly every Labrador retriever has two copies of KB. Any of these dogs that are not yellow ee will have tan points. Nope, not a Rottweiler, Doberman or Dachshund! Just an incredibly well-bred Labrador retriever with beautiful coloring. You can click on the links above to jump straight to a section that interests you. Or, keep reading to learn everything about the unusual black and tan Lab! The exact appearance of a black and tan Labrador will depend on the specific mismarks they have. These tan markings are most often on the legs, muzzle, eyebrows, and chest. This type of mismark often leads people to compare the black and tan Lab to the Rottweiler breed or the Gordon Setter. However, tan markings can vary from one mismarked Lab to the next. Some may only have a single tan paw, whilst the rest of them is a solid color! Others may have tan coloring in the form of brindling. The only time you will notice extreme differences is when a Lab puppy is not actually purebred. DNA testing is the most accurate way to learn whether or not your Lab is purebred, but you can also increase your chances by getting your puppy from a reputable breeder. Are Black and Tan Labradors Purebred? However, the gene for this coloring is recessive. So, a Labrador puppy needs to receive one copy from each parent in order to show black and tan fur. As long as those two parents are also purebred Labradors, the resulting black and tan Labrador puppy will also be purebred. You can ask to see pedigree papers of purebred Lab puppies. But, it is possible for purebred Labs to have this black and tan marking. As you will now know from the information so far, there are two ways that a breeder will be able to achieve black and tan Labrador puppies. When a black and tan Lab is purebred, they often come about by accident. Other breeders may try to mimic and recreate this pattern by breeding a Labrador with another purebred dog. This could be a lighter colored dog, such as a Golden Retriever, or one with the desired markings, like a Rottweiler or Gordon Setter. Many of these breeders will sell their dogs as mixed breeds. But, occasionally, some may try to pass their puppies off as purebred Labs. The best breeders will prioritise health and proper care over all else — including fur color. Can Black and Tan Labs Compete? Although a purebred black and tan Labrador can be registered with the AKC, they cannot compete in any shows. Their coloring falls outside of the permitted breed standards. In fact, the only mismark that is accepted for show is a small white patch on the chest. A black and tan Labrador can make a brilliant family pet in the right home, just like any other colored Lab. Are Black and Tan Labradors Rare? As we know, a Labrador puppy must receive two copies of the necessary recessive gene to show black and tan coloring. Even then, not all puppies in such a litter necessarily will be mismarked. Or mismarked in exactly the same way. Especially if this description comes with a massively inflated price tag. Reputable breeders will often charge no more for mismarked puppies. In fact, some may even reduce the price of these Labs, since they will not qualify for show. Before searching for a new Labrador puppy, research the best way to find a reputable breeder. Here are some links that will help you:. His pedigree is here Pedigree. Contessa's pedigree is here. We put a lot of energy into raising puppies. We are involved with them from birth. They are loved all day long. They are exposed to children, adults, older dogs, loud noises, household items, scented to wings, duck calls, a early start with obedience and potty training. Our lab puppies are well on their way to being potty trained before they're placed in their forever homes, as we've incorporated the misty method. Labrador retriever puppies will have a complete puppy packet including information on shots, worming schedule and medication that has been given, that you will need to share with your vet. A written guarantee, and the basic schedule of sleeping and feeding that the puppy has been raised on will also be some of the information in your puppy packet. AKC Northern California labrador puppy Breeder All of our labrador puppies are registered with the American Kennel Club with limited registration , micro-chipped and ready to be enrolled in the AKC ReUnite program before they go into a new family home. This service is included in the purchase price of your puppy. Our labrador puppies are also sent home with a supply of their current food and feeding schedule. We feed large breed puppy food to insure they grow up healthy and avoid any problems with dysplasia as recommended by the AKC. We also send them home with a receiving blanket that has been with them for some time. It has the scent of their litter-mates and their mother to ease the transition to their new home. Contessa Rose Da Serra. Life Span Did You Know? There is a reason that year after year, the Labrador Retriever is the most popular dog breed in the United States. The history of the Labrador Retriever dates back to the early s in Newfoundland, just off the Atlantic coast of Canada. Had these families not played a vital part in the continuation of the breed, the loving and affectionate Labs we have all grown to love may not exist today. The first recognized Yellow Labrador Retriever was born in .One of the friendliest breeds out there, Yellow Labs are great companions and love to be a part of the family. While the color yellow is part of their namesake, their coats range from fawn or cream to butterscotch or a deep golden hue. Coming into popularity during the midth century, the Yellow Labrador Retriever has been a staple for hunters and family homes alike ever since. These dogs are patient and kind when faced with energetic young ones. Yellow Labs delight in big spaces, opting to run and play wildly. However, they will happily lounge on the couch after having a long, hard run outside. When given a little training, they can easily learn to control barking habits and restrain themselves from digging. Their double coat also makes them a good fit for just about any climate. As with most dogs, they are sensitive to extreme heat or cold. Generally speaking, Labradors are healthy. They can develop certain inherent conditions, along with cataracts and kneecap displacement, but will remain healthy overall. As long as they are taken to their vet appointments with regularity, Labs will usually feel just fine. Yellow Labs are loyal companions with few drawbacks. Treats never hurt, of course. This, paired with their eagerness to please, makes them a highly trainable dog breed that is a good fit for owners of any experience level. With minimal training, these dogs can control their barking and digging without much trouble. Labs have very short, double-layered, and water-resistant fur. Its density protects them from the cold, so they will often try to swim any time of year. They experience heavier seasonal shedding twice a year and slight shedding throughout the year. Giving them a good brush once a week or a few times a week should keep their coats shiny and healthy. Other grooming tasks include nail trimming, ear care, and dental care. Proper dental care for dogs includes brushing their teeth or using an enzyme toothpaste every day. This helps prevent the tartar buildup that causes dental diseases like gum disease and tooth decay. You can also supplement your dental care efforts with dental hygiene chews, a special dental care diet, and more. This breed tends to be very active. They were bred to be working dogs and need exercise. A few daily walks and some time to run should help assuage their energy levels. Yellow Labs also need a fair amount of mental activity as well; they like to stay sharp. Yellow Labs are classified as medium to large dogs. They reach an average height of 23 inches and an average healthy weight of 75 pounds. A Yellow Labrador Retriever generally lives years. It was traditional in Newfoundland for every fishing boat to have a Labrador Retriever that would help retrieve the fish as they came in off the trawl. Featured Yellow Labrador Retriever Article. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. It is recessive and therefore requires each parent to contribute the black and tan gene to an individual for the color to show up. It can modify a black or chocolate Lab to have lighter tan markings in the usual locations of a Gordon Setter, Doberman or Rottewieler. There is also a brindle coloring that Labs can have. We see it less often. Labs with brindling have tan speckling on their forelegs, muzzles and chest. However, they can be registered with the AKC American Kennel Club and these color choices are available on the registration slips. Take a look at these pictures of Billy one of our readers Black and Tan Labrador Retriever: Another trait I noticed was a small white spot on some of the black labs in our group. If you know of any other unusual traits found in purebred labs please leave a comment or let me know. I have received many images from others who own purebred black and tan labs and brindle labs. Moving forward I plan on appending the new images to this post. He is a kindly dog. He loves child and he learn fast. He grow up with two child. We looked for a dog for our son, who suffers from selective mutism. And we find the right dog. He is tomorrow 19 weeks old. Brindle Lab Puppies I saw the pics of the brindle lab dogs on your site. One has just a bit on the paws, another has it on his paws and a little on his chest, the other one has it on his paws, chest face and neck. They are so pretty. Have any of you heard of or seen a black and tan Labrador Retriever. If so tell us a little bit about your experiences in the comment section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining.