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Crate training is the ideal next step in potty training a puppy. It should begin when a puppy is about eight weeks old. If you still have the puppies when they are eight weeks old, crate train them so they will be even better potty trained by the time they have new owners. The crate will be like the den the puppy was in with its mother. With crate training, you will be teaching the puppies to spend long periods of time in their crates. Make the crates comfortable by putting blankets on the crate floors and placing sturdy food and water bowls in the crates. Also, put some toys in the crates so the puppies can stay busy. The puppies may go inside the crates on their own, or you may have to encourage them. Encourage them by placing treats near the crate entrance, then just inside the crate, then further back in the crate. When you take the puppies out of their crates to go outside, they should go to the bathroom in the same place each time. If you have a backyard, take each puppy out to the yard, one at a time. Let the puppy select the potty area. Once your puppy goes, give it lots of verbal praise. Don't just let the puppy out and walk away. Stay with the puppy and watch them, rewarding and praising them when they toilet in the right place. With multiple puppies, the puppies will likely choose their own little spots in the yard to go to the bathroom. Each puppy will leave its scent in its own potty area. Very young puppies cannot hold their bladders for very long. As a rule of thumb, a 1-month-old puppy should be let out every 1 hour, a 2-month-old every 2 hours, and so on. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source First thing in the morning After playtime After eating or drinking water Before bedtime. May 23, Susanne Shelton We never could have predicted the enthusiasm for our litter box training protocol, and now after years of raising litters with our method, and teaching it to other breeders, we have converted this blog into a fully updated, media rich, course for breeders and fosters. We even designed a detailed, step by step, house training course for those who purchase puppies raised with our Poop School methods. If anyone had told me I could raise a litter of German Shepherd puppies from birth through 10 weeks in my home without going stark raving mad, I would never have believed them! Too big! Too many! Too much poop! Prior to Puppy Culture, we raised puppies inside our home for the first six weeks. Good enough, right? We thought so, and indeed this worked okay for many years. But times, and paradigms, change. While our older model worked well, we missed out on a lot — our puppies AND their new owners. There was so much more we could accomplish if the puppies were inside the house. We could spend our time on more than just poop patrol! We had been doing good, but Puppy Culture showed us how much better we could be doing. I became dedicated to figuring out and perfecting how to teaching my puppies what they needed to know to live inside with us the full nine to ten weeks. With less time spent cleaning messes, I would have the time to really work through the Puppy Culture protocols. If I was going to keep a bunch of little poop machines in my house for weeks on end, I decided they would have to be litter box trained. Litter box training is covered in Puppy Culture, but what worked for me is just a little bit different. As an unexpected bonus, our puppies were significantly easier for their new families to house train. Talk about a win-win! First toilet! On the other side I place a small bed. So, sleep area and toilet area, baby version. What I used: 1 Durawhelp to line the whelping box. I remove the whelping box and put the larger toilet where the whelping box toliet was, along the western wall of our dog room. In front of the new toilet is a slightly larger play area. On the eastern side of the pen I put in a row of small puppy beds during week 4 and small crates week 5. Once the puppies are moving off their bed area to urinate, I add the crates. By now the puppies poop in the toilet most of the time, but they still miss as much as they hit with pee. Part 2: Removed Puppy Pads and added litter boxes with pellets. During week 4 the puppies rarely make it all the way to the toilet to urinate, they are just not mature enough. This tells me the puppies are learning to move away from their bed and play area to potty, which is an important skill. From the moment we move the puppies to the weaning pen, we start to carry each puppy to the litter box immediately after eating. Someone watches them to make sure they actually hit the toilet when they void. During week 4 we are often placing the puppies in the toilet when we know they need to poop. SOME of the puppies will start going to the toilet to poop during this week and by the end of week 5 we hope that most of the poop will be in the toilet. Part 3: Pen expansion, added crates. They are not adults, we are just looking for an effort to reach the toilet to tell us the puppies are learning and trying. Footing: EZ Whelp Pads. Crates: One Vari Kennel, Three 24 x 17 inch wire crates. Doors are removed or front panel folded down. Please take a look at my crate conditioning blog for more info on crates. I have learned that keeping the toilet in the same place speeds toilet training. Now, I always have the toilet on the west wall of their pen, even starting as early as the whelping pen pad, and THAT was really helpful. On previous litters I experimented and moved the toilet around often, that really made it harder for my puppies to have success. My suggestion is that you decide before the litter is born how you will build out from the whelping box, to the weaning pen, to the toddler pen. Plan in advance, so your litter box will stay in the same area the entire time. The now expanded weaning pen, the litter box is in the same position, the play area is larger to meet the needs of our growing puppies. Week .At the end of week 5 we enlarge the weaning pen. The puppies are now using the toilet most but not all of the time and their pen is enlarged to make room for more exercise and passive enrichment. At this point you can also see the door is available left to their puppy patio outside. The crates are still on the wall opposite of the toilet, and our crate conditioning plan is in full force. The pen opens into the kitchen and living room right , and outdoors left. We are still using the three pan toilet for these two weeks. Please note, there are still plenty of pees outside the toilet, but most of the poop is inside the toilet. We continue to ensure the puppies either run to, or are carried to, their litter box after each meal. By this age we are feeding the puppies in their crates, so after each meal the crates are opened and the puppies encourage to their toilet area to void. What I added: Larger 24 x 36 inch crates not visible here. Week For the last two or three weeks the puppies are with us, we expand the weaning pen until it takes up the entire dog room. I found my puppies do not like to touch poop, and will choose to poop outside of the box if they must touch poop to void inside the box. Not a problem during the day when we pick up constantly, but at night the box can get poopy. Our largest litter box area, we use this at night for large litters in weeks 7 and 8. This photo shows the boxes reversed! This largest toilet helps the puppies succeed in getting fully into the box to void, even if there are some poops in it. Puppies are now taken outside for potty breaks as often as possible, through their exterior door and onto their puppy patio outside. They still need and use their litter box however, and there is the occasional accident on the EZ whelp pads. By now we are encouraging the puppies to void outside. They have a doggie door that leads to their puppy patio, so they can go outside often on their own. We found by starting early, creating an environment designed for success, and not expecting perfection we have been able to enjoy having our puppies in the house with us with far LESS work than ever imagined. This has freed up even more time to implement Puppy Cultures core protocols, active enrichment, training, socialization and teaching puppies to be enrichment seekers. If you would like more in depth methods and personal coaching on litter box training for breeders, please check out my NEW course — Poop School: Litter Box Training for Breeders and Fosters. Throw us a bone? The above links are affiliate links. These are products we have used and loved. We get a few coins for purchases from these links but you never pay more. Sign up to keep up! Sign up to keep up with all our stuff! Litter and breeding announcements, new blogs, product recommendations, and new courses. Plus my garden, dinner, and other country life updates. Here at Parsons Place Stable, all our puppies are litter box trained. We start the puppies on newspaper around 3wks old, then by 4wks we offer a litter box or area with shavings or pellets, the puppies naturally figure out how to use it. In our whelping rooms the puppies have access to a doggy door, which goes out directly into a litter box. Dogs by natural instinct typically do not wish to eliminate themselves where they sleep, so the puppies go out the door and use the box. But, by the time the puppies are 8wks old, they have got it down almost perfectly! The main key to litter box training for puppies, is to keep their space very small. There should only be room for thier bed, food dishes and 1 or 2 litter boxes. As they get better their space is allowed to get larger. We recommend the puppies using a litter box after they go to their new homes. Puppies have no bladder control until after they are 16wks old. They typically need to go out to relieve themselves every hour. If you are like me.This is where the litter box training comes in really handy! If you can set up your puppies home space with a litter box, you will not have to worry as much about if they need to go potty. I have found no issues with housebreaking after using the litter boxes. We still take our puppies outside to potty as often as we can, this way they still get rewarded for using the bathroom outside. This is our whelping room. It is heated and cooled as needed. Each room has a doggy door that opens to the outside, for the mother to get a break from the puppies or as the puppies get older, a place for them to go potty. This is a view from the outside of the whelping room. These puppies are now old enough to go in and out and use the potty in their shavings. On many occasions, once the puppies are weaned we will move the puppies - to our new kennel. Here if the weather is bad outside, the puppies will learn to go only in thier litter box. This room is plenty large enough for the puppies to get lots of playtime outside of their kennel but not have to go outside in the cold. They also get TONS of visitors and attention from all our riding lesson families! Once you take your new puppy home, we recommend you set up something like this. In our home we use a 48" crate with a litter box and a dog bed. This way the puppy can still use the potty even if I can not get him outside. This not only keeps the bed clean, but gives your puppy something to lay on. As you see Pazley loves it up there! Keep the side height around or under 6 inches. If you have a very small puppy you may wish to cut a doorway into the box, as shown above in our crate. Please take your new puppy outside to potty as much as possible and reward them Greatly when they go!! Please feel free to call me with any questions!! Pin It Dogs have been living side by side with people since people were still nomadic. It seems equally unsurprising that studies have recently shown that dogs, on the whole, prefer women to men. Our modern lives have taken us out of caves, given us rabies vaccines, the 19th Amendment and introduced some new problems. Work hours are long. The night is dark. Weather can be inclement. Be that as it may, litter training works best for small breed dogs and puppies. The idea of a Great Dane using a litter box is comical but also a logistical nightmare if you think about it. The first option is the most obvious: a conventional litter box. A dog box is bigger than a cat box, has higher sides and no top. Most dog litter is made of recycled newspaper but there are also clay options. Next up is the pee pad holder. They have plastic undersides and are absorbent to soak up and contain any urine. They are designed for use during housebreaking and were meant to replace the tradition of puppies peeing on newspapers. The problem? Dogs love to shred them and scatter the bits through the house like gross confetti. I think my dog could figure it out. He loves puzzles. Plastic grate-style litter boxes will be the first one I try next time I have a puppy. When your puppy needs to use the loo they just hop up and do what they came to do. The solid waste stays on top of the grate so you can pick it up and do whatever you do with poop. Personally, I flush it. The urine goes down into the shallow box where it is absorbed by either a pee pad or litter, depending on the model. One of the more high-tech offerings is Fresh Patch, which made its debut on Shark Tank and is hydroponically grown grass in a box. Hydroponic means it was grown without dirt. No dirt means no digging. Your dog is supposed to pee and poop in it until the grass gives up the ghost and dies. Then you throw the whole biodegradable mess away. Dogs love it. It can get pricey depending on how often you replace the grass and the size of your dog. If you have one dog, the grass needs replaced every two to three weeks. The price is based on the size of the box, which is based on the size of your dog. Can you put a price on not stepping in a puddle? There are also synthetic grass options that you wash and reuse instead of tossing and replacing, which is more economical. Watch for signs the puppy needs to go, such as sniffing or beginning to squat. Puppies should be taken potty once an hour for the first week; then gradually increase the length of time between potty times. The puppy should also be taken potty 15 minutes after every meal until he starts taking himself. When this happens, praise your puppy like he just discovered gold in your backyard. A high-value treat helps, too. If your puppy has an accident, make sure you clean it with something designed to clean up pet urine, though, or this will be a recurring problem. Yelling at the puppy, rubbing his nose in the accident or hitting the puppy will do nothing but confuse him. The most important part is to be consistent and patient. It teaches the dog that there is a designated spot to potty making it easier for the new owner to potty train their new puppy. Contrary to some beliefs, potty training a puppy should start with the breeder very early in life. It is very important at 3 to 3. It is not really a natural thing for a dog to pee or poop in his crate. Wolf mothers are meticulous about keeping the "nest" very clean. This causes an aversion to poop and pee. When this is done right, by the time the buyer purchases the pup, he will already be ready to not pee in his crate or bed, as they do not pee or poop where they eat or where they sleep. So believe it or not, what goes on from the time of birth to the time you buy the pup plays a big role on the young life and what a buyer will be faced with. This in return not only helps the breeder keep the whelping area clean, it makes the puppy easier to housebreak once they go to their new homes. A win-win for everyone.Within these pages she explains step-by-step how the method works. This means there are a designated potty area, a place to eat and play, and a place to sleep. You can see that I have now changed the room around, and have made it bigger. The potty area should be the farthest away, as when you enter the room, they all jump at you, and want up, and you do not want them jumping in their poop. The bed area should be nearest to where you enter the room. The pups decide to take a nap and many of them, on their own, gather into the sleeping area. If you look to the left, on the paper , you can see that many have gone over there to pee before going for a nap. After puppies eat, they naturally feel the need to eliminate. What a good puppy! This is the first step toward potting training a puppy. Potty training should start with the breeder. Puppies raised using this method are easier to housebreak and have fewer accidents in the house, as you are distilling the concept of housebreaking to them at a very young age. They learn from the start there is a place to sleep, a place to play, a place to eat and a place to eliminate and they will carry this concept with them after they leave the breeder. Puppies who are raised in cages where the areas are not separated do not understand this concept. They learn they can eliminate anywhere they wish at any time they wish. Then, after you take them home, you suddenly expect them to understand they cannot pee and poo in the house. Above, puppy pee. The potty area is lined with long sheets of paper that can be rolled up for easy cleanup. This is roll ends of newsprint. Newspaper does work, but the ink can transfer onto the dogs and for white pups this is not good. I like to wait till they are four to five weeks old. For large-breed dogs, pine shavings work, but not for the small breeds. For small breeds, paper or puppy pads are best and you may need to weight it down, so they don't shred it, and if they try and shred it, you just have to say "NO. I cover the poop with a small piece of paper so the others do not walk in it. The place where you sleep and the place where you play are not the same place you poop and pee. As a result, the owners of these pups will have an easier time housetraining their new puppy. A brief summery of the Misty Method.Make sure the lip is low enough so the dam doesn't have to blindly leap in, but can aim her step in, and high enough so pups do not get out and get chilled. Kind of like removing the den door. THEN, you can move the potty area farther and farther away from the bed. Pups like it at opposite end. When they are 3 to 4 weeks, they will come out of their bed and pee right away, sometimes they only get their front feet out. After they are more mobile, you move the potty away from the bed area. I will line a litter box with paper, but not litter. Ideally at 6 to 7 weeks old, you will have an 8 x 10' area for small breeds or a larger area for large breeds with a bed in one corner, and food and potty at opposite sides of the pen. Note: The stools should never be soft, and never be mushy. If they are soft or mushy pudding-like ask the vet for enough wormer to worm all the puppies and mom. Take a stool sample in for testing. The stool shouldn't smell horribly bad. If the stool is not solid and it smells horrible, you want to check for stool Coccidia coccidiosis. Loose stools also make the job of cleaning up after your pups ten times harder. Stools should be like little chocolate bars. It is normal to have bouts of soft stool, but do not let it continue on an ongoing basis. Find out why, and get them solid again. Otherwise, they will run through it, and it becomes a real mess as they track it everywhere. About 8, 9, 10 weeks After about 8, 9, 10 weeks of age, or when the puppy arrives at it's new home, the dog should be taught to go potty outside. Do not have paper or potty pads inside your home. Peeing is for outside only, or you are teaching your new pup it is okay to potty inside your home. Take advantage of any early training the breeder hopefully has already done. Teach your pup to potty on a designated spot outdoors, making him think. After you bring home your new puppy the first thing you need to teach the pup is to walk to the door. Do not carry it. Make the puppy walk or it will not learn to alert you. Do not use treats when potty training as it takes the dog's focus off of the business at hand and puts it on the food. You do not want the dog's brain to be on food when it is time to relieve itself. This often causes a dog to not completely finish eliminating because the dog is looking and waiting for food. The dog will often come back inside the home and go to the bathroom again after just being out. Keep the focus on the task at hand. Dogs can feel when the humans are happy. This method is only for pups 3 to 8 weeks of age who have not yet left the breeder. Sleep area should NEVER have feces in it, you have to start changing that bedding every hour if needed. If a puppy poops, you cannot just pick it up, as the smell will remain. Also, if they walk in the poop, and then walk on their bedding, they have put feces smell on the blankets, so I also cover the poop with a small piece of paper so the others do not walk in it. Mom continues to eat the elimination matter and my pups are four weeks old, is this normal? Yes, this is normal. Some dams quit the second you start to feed the puppies; others can continue for a week. When the pups actually use the potty pads in the potty area, they step in the feces and track it all over the pen.This is why I personally do not use pee pads. I use un-inked roll ends of paper, and every time a puppy poops, I cover it. For large breeds I use the shavings, because if a puppy gets feces on his feet, and tracks that smell into the bed or play area, another puppy will smell it, and eliminate there. A WEEK of constant supervision and you have them trained, and if you do not, you have weeks of overload work ahead of you. I would put in a couple crates with clean bedding, and have the rest paper. NO play area on the first day of potty training. Then slowly make a play area, each day making it a little bigger.A couple of the pups actually sleep ON the used potty pads.I cover the used ones up as fast as I can. You want the potty area to smell like a potty, yuck for a few days, and you want bedding area to smell clean. Just a guess of what is happening is this: pups eliminate on a pee pad and step in it, and then track the smell to play area and bed. I am looking for one of those weaning bras for my dog and can't find them anywhere. Where do you get them? For small dogs you can use a human baby onesies suit. For the bigger dogs, you need to get a t-shirt, fairly large, and then you buy a bed sheet clamping holder sheet straps. They are about six inches long, and they sell them in the store, to put on the corner of flat sheets in order to turn them into fitted sheets. They are elasticized. They have the clamps on the end, like ladies used to wear to hold their stockings up. You just cinch the t-shirt on with them, but it may be hard to cover the bottom two teats. At six weeks, the puppies do very well eliminating where they are supposed to MOST of the time. However, they don't have a complete aversion to mess. I routinely see them spending time in the potty area sleeping or chewing a toy or playing with another puppy that is in there to "go. It is portable and I put it over the paper. It acts as a paper weight, so they cannot drag the paper and when they are playing, they run, and hit the wall, and don't play on the paper. And by 6. It works awesome. Still the odd one goes in there to play. I have four-week-old puppies. How long does it take them to figure out to go to the pee pads? I have had it there for five days and it is hit and miss, still peeing on sleeping area. You don't want them to pee on their sleeping area. Ideally you catch them before they start, and then it takes about three or four days of being extremely consistent and changing the bedding as soon as one has a boo-boo. After three days of fresh-smelling bedding and paper that smells like pee, they get it. I do not have much luck with pee pads. They don't work as well as the un-inked paper. I find, with the un-inked paper, you can cover the paper with another piece of paper, and cover the poop and pee, leaving the scent of pee, without them tracking it back to their bed. BUT, if you put a pee pad over a pee pad, it masks the scent. If you can get a pee pad with just pee, and pick up the poop but leave skid marks, it may work. I just find that leaving the bed smelling fresh and the potty area clean but smelling of pee helps for the first four days, just till they get it; they do not pee in their bed, and if they step on the pee pad and it is saturated, and their feet get covered in pee, they track it too their bed. Wake them up every couple hours and put them out on the paper: don't let them back into the bed area until they pee ON the paper. I have 5. They are really, really noisy at night lately. Is there anything I can do? They literally yell for what seems like hours. They are likely hungry and mom is likely not wanting to go feed them at night. She should but they have teeth, so you need to give them a big meal at bedtime, and a good late play. Then to bed. The lights out with no stimulation. This is the harder stage and a reason puppy mills and backyard breeders want to let the pups go at 5. This is a learning stage for them. The play area stays during the day and you slowly make it bigger, but you can take it away at night to teach them night is for sleeping. I started at 2. They are five weeks old now! I had a whelping box in the area until yesterday. I wanted the puppies that are getting crate trained to get used to crates so they were not scared when they go to their forever homes. I used many tips of yours throughout Sasha's pregnancy and whelping.

It even seems to go down a treat with fussy pups who otherwise turn their nose up at kibble. Pet parents comment that the ingredients are high quality, and one even goes as far as to say the food almost smells good enough for people to eat! Pros Given that this food is specifically formulated with puppies in mind, it has everything a growing dog needs to keep them happy and healthy. Cons Two concerns mentioned by reviewers are the price — which some say is a little high although many say the food is worth it and the fact that the bag is not resealable. You might have to transfer this food to another container to keep it fresh. It can also be the most expensive if you prepare food each day rather than in batches to freeze. Now filler ingredients are the number one enemy of pet owners looking to grab their dog some tasty, healthy nosh at a reasonable price. Many companies make use of such ingredients because they are cheap, easy, and sadly there are no rules against using them — yet. Look for foods that list the fillers low on the list so that you know your dog is not getting an unhealthy amount of fillers. The Long Debate Bernedoodle Feeding Guide A feeding schedule is essential to ensure your pup receives the right amount of food at the right time of day. Under four months, you can let your puppy graze. However, after this age, their mealtimes need to be a little more regulated to stop them from putting on too much weight too quickly. Smaller Bernies should be fed little and often, whereas larger ones should be given four small meals a day. At six months, your dog can switch over to an adult feeding schedule and formula. Mealtimes should be reduced to either twice or three times daily, and this routine will remain in place for their adult lives unless there are any changes in their health. Bernies are, generally speaking, happy, healthy hounds. For this reason, any high-quality, nutritionally balanced dog food, prepared for their size and life stage, should do the trick. All of the foods on our list come highly recommended by pet owners and are well suited to a Bernies needs. Is chicken bad for Bernedoodles? While some dogs may be sensitive to chicken and chicken by-products, this is an occasional rather than frequent allergy. However, it can develop later in life. If you are feeding your pup food with chicken as the main ingredient, keep an eye out for any signs of sensitivity, such as changes in bowel movements or itchy skin. Are Bernedoodles picky eaters? Bernedoodles are generally not picky eaters; in fact, quite the reverse. Bernedoodles are fun, fab, lively hounds, and they make excellent pets. However, as is the case with any pet, we need to take care of them to the very best of our ability. A major part of this is giving them food that will keep them happy, healthy, and just as full of life as they naturally are. It is not intended to be a substitute for qualified professional veterinary advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian or other qualified animal health provider with any questions you may have. You Might Also Like. This dog breed is a cross between a poodle and a Bernese Mountain Dog, which means they vary considerably in size, from a miniature Bernedoodle to standard sizes. Our top picks for the best dog food for Bernedoodles include everything you need to ensure proper nutrition and care for your puppy. I found this brand offers excellent nutrient quality, including lamb, salmon, and chicken flavor options, which provide animal protein for your adult dog. Manufacturer: The Nutro Company Package Dimensions: 21 x 15 x 2 inches 15 pounds Ingredients: Chicken, whole brown rice, lamb meal, rice bran, salmon meal, sunflower oil, whole flaxseed, pea protein, dried plain beet pulp, whole chia seed, dried coconut, dried kale, dried pumpkin, selenium yeast, vitamins B12, D3, B1, A, E, B6, iron, folic acid, rosemary extract, and zinc. This formula is designed for toy and small breed dogs in a convenient, small-sized kibble, making it easy for Bernedoodles and similar dogs to pick up and chew. Here are some of the reasons why we like this product: All ingredients are natural, with no chicken by-products, artificial flavors, preservatives, or colors. Nutro features a solid blend of superfoods high in nutrients and antioxidants, including kale, blueberries, coconut, chia, and more. Three convenient package sizes are available, including four, eight, and fifteen lbs. These nutrient-rich meals are marinated in a gravy-like broth with easy-to-chew chunks of meat. Manufacturer: Blue Buffalo Company Ltd. Package Dimensions: .We found this dry dog food product offers excellent quality nutrients without ingredients that commonly contribute to allergies. Blue Buffalo products contain natural ingredients, without any by-products or fillers, such as corn, soy, wheat, or preservatives. There are no ingredients that trigger allergic reactions, such as dairy, soy, eggs, corn, beef, wheat, or chicken It is formulated with peas, pumpkin, potatoes, and turkey to provide the proper balance of carbohydrates and protein for a sensitive digestive system. Manufacturer: Royal Canin Package Dimensions: 21 x .We found this dog food formula, while designed to meet the nutrient needs of poodles, is an excellent product for many similar breeds, as it contains small, easy-to-chew kibble and accurate portions of protein, calcium, and vitamins for proper balance and nutrition. Supports dogs in advanced stages of life by providing nutrients that support mobility, joint, muscle, and bone health. We found this formula perfect for supporting the unique coat texture of poodle and doodle breeds by providing a healthy dose of oils and moisture that prevent dryness and irritation. Best Small Breed Formula for Bernedoodle Puppies Eukanuba Puppy Small Breed dry dog food is a well-balanced formula that gives your Bernedoodle pup the nutrient level needed during the first year. This brand is developed by Royal Canin, a reputable dog food manufacturer that designs many breed-specific formulas high in nutrients. Manufacturer: Royal Canin Package Dimensions: .We chose this brand for its exceptional quality, and the following: This formula offers the perfect balance of carbohydrates, fat, and protein that puppies need for optimal growth Eukanuba includes high-quality calcium, phosphorus, and high-quality animal protein to support bones, tissue, organs, eyes, and brain development. Package Dimensions: 16 x .We recommend this dog food product for its well-sourced ingredients and significant results in improving health and weight levels within a short time. We also like the following benefits of this product: Weight loss goals are easier to achieve with this product. We noticed significant results within ten to twelve weeks. The formula focuses on providing a significant source of protein for lean muscle development and support. Manufacturer: Mars Petcare Package Dimensions: 3 x .This dog food formula is one of our favorite blends for its meaty texture and flavor, hearty and satisfying for dogs. While many products design formulas for specific dog breeds, sizes, and ages, selecting the best fit for your pet can be daunting and challenging. A Bernadoodle puppy, like most dogs within the first year of life, requires a higher density of nutrients, including protein, amino acids, essential fatty acids, and others formulated explicitly for puppy food. In most cases, puppy food is easy for most Bernedoodle pups to digest, though they may prefer specific flavors or blends or refuse a specific texture or taste. While dry kibble dog food can be left out for the day, raw or wet dog food should only be served when your Bernedoodle is ready to eat and in smaller amounts. If only a portion of a can is consumed, store the remaining food in a sealed container in the refrigerator to keep it fresh. The Importance of Regular Meal Schedules and Consistent Portions A routine meal schedule is the best way to provide your pet with regular feeding and consistent portions, so there is less risk of overeating. Most quality dog food brands offer suggested portions for dog breeds and ages, and your veterinarian can also provide this. Dog treats are a great way to provide a reward during training or when you play outdoors with your Bernedoodle. While many healthy dog treats are available, they do not contain the nutrient levels required for a sustainable diet. Specialized products that provide dietary support for medical conditions, for example, may require ordering directly from a supplier or manufacturer. In some cases, it might be ideal to introduce a small amount of the new formula to determine if your pet enjoys the flavor. Supplement Options for Your Bernedoodle Many dogs benefit from taking supplements to support their growth and development throughout life. These options include multi-vitamins, probiotics, and nutritional supplements that support dogs in the advanced stages of life. Conclusion Bernedoodles are highly intelligent, active, and healthy dogs that thrive on a high-protein diet with all the essential nutrients. While all of our top picks are excellent options for your Bernedoodle, we highly recommend initially choosing Science Diet or a vet-approved formula. Once you establish a meal routine, you can try or switch to other blends, including grain-free and diet-specific kibble or food plans for your pet. It also contains salmon meal, which is a high-quality variety of fish meal. Like other Wellness offerings, this food is made in the USA without artificial preservatives or meat by-products. He loves it and I like the fact it is vet recommended and has both pre and probiotics. It contains all the essential vitamins and minerals your dog needs: vitamins B6, B12, and D3, to name a few. Our only complaint is that the first ingredient is chicken by-product meal. Our first pick would be a real meat of higher quality. However, the nutrients and substantial protein level make this a great food for a growing Bernedoodle puppy. Royal Canin does studies and tests to make sure their food supplies all the nutrition needed. The first ingredient in this Purina food is real lamb. There are plenty of nutrients here, including DHA, vitamins, and live probiotics for gut health. It even has a small amount of garlic oil which helps lower cholesterol and prevent blood clots. I am very happy with it. Real chicken is the first ingredient in this one. The amount of fat, carbs, calcium and phosphorous has been carefully planned by nutritional experts, so you can feel confident knowing your dog is getting just the right amount of nutrients for his size and age. We also love to see sufficient levels of DHA here that will help your pup with brain development. I was only interested in a small bag and found exactly what I needed. Fair price and rapid delivery! One huge benefit of this Solid Gold formula is the number of superfoods packed into it: veggies like broccoli and carrots, and fruits such as blueberries and cranberries. It even has pumpkin and kelp! This is sure to deliver the vitamins and antioxidants your little Bernedoodle is craving. If your dog is prone to food allergies, you might be in luck here. No wheat, corn or soy are used in this food. Very happy we switched to this. The list goes on from there, including eggs, chicken liver, and herring. Like other Orijen formulas, this kibble is freeze-dried coated for extra flavor. The ingredients are so good, your little pup should dive right into this one. He is healthy, has tons of energy, a beautiful coat and no digestive issues. Check with your veterinarian if you have concerns about food restrictions. Salmon is the first ingredient. In fact, this product contains no beef or chicken, so it will also work well for pups who have allergies to those ingredients. The omega fatty acids should also help maintain a shiny coat. She has a soft and shiny coat! She loves it! Check the feeding instructions on the package for more detailed information. How long should a Bernedoodle eat puppy food? You should feed your Bernedoodle puppy food until he is no longer growing. This will typically occur between 6 and 18 months. After you have confirmed with your veterinarian that your Bernedoodle has reached full size, you can switch to an adult kibble formula. What are Bernedoodles allergic to? Like many breeds, bernedoodles are prone to food allergies. Your puppy may be allergic to beef, chicken, wheat, dairy, eggs, or other ingredients. Whenever you switch to a new food, you should monitor his behavior and appearance and take note of any allergic reaction. Check with your vet if you have any questions. Conclusion We know you want the absolute best food for your precious Bernedoodle puppy! Now is the best time to consider his nutritional needs since he is still growing and needs plenty of protein, vitamins and minerals. For now, we hope this article helps you select a great dog food for your pup. Post navigation. Best Dog Food For Bernedoodles Bernedoodle Photo: Adobe Stock Bernedoodles are a pretty common Poodle cross breed that can make much-loved family pets thanks to their affectionate, friendly, energetic and playful personalities. The Bernese Mountain Dog was traditionally used to protect the flock on mountains, while Poodles have a history as water dogs used to hunt ducks, geese and other water fowl. While Bernese Mountain Dogs and Poodles will need a formulated diet to meet their nutritional needs, the Bernedoodle will also require balanced and complete meals to promote a happy and healthy lifestyle. My mini huskies have sensitive stomachs that has resulted in numerous trips to the emergency vet after long nights of vomiting or diarrhea. However, I found making the switch to customised meals using whole ingredients formulated by vets have helped my Klee Kai to overcome these issues. These customised and fresh dog meals will be shipped direct to your door to remove the hassle of having to pick up pet food at your local pet store or supermarket. My top pick is Nom Nom having seen how their meals improved the overall health of my Klee Kai. I was really impressed with Butternut Box who are my recommendation where British dog food delivery companies are concerned. A lot of traditional dog food options contain mystery ingredients fillers or mixers. They can also contain some nasties and junk food. After all, these traditional kibble options are manufactured by confectionary brands. We like dog food delivery companies because they only use fresh and whole ingredients in their customised recipes. They ensure that your Bernedoodle is only eating real food usually combined with minerals and vitamins that your canine companion needs to promote a healthy lifestlye. I made the switch to dog food delivery companies in and my Alaskan Klee Kai have seen a range of benefits. You can have peace of mind knowing that they use high-grade ingredients that are listed transparently on the packaging. Most dog food delivery companies will use pre-portioned pouches or customised scoopers to get the portions right. Altnertatively, most dog food delivery companies will offer a happy pup guarantee. While we prefer going for a dog food delivery company, there are some customised kibble options. These tailored kibble companies operate much like dog food delivery companies. They only use natural ingredients that are high grade in their recipes, while vets help to formulate this kibble to ensure your Bernedoodle is getting all the minerals and nutrients required in their diet. Bernedoodles are known to be voracious eaters, so they tend to gain weight easily, especially if their daily exercise needs are not met. Fortunately, you can help keep their weight stable with this food. Antioxidants also help control the premature aging of cells and support a healthy immune system. However, this option is quite expensive, and some dogs may not like the smell and texture. How much to feed your dog? You should use the portions listed on the package with a scale or measuring cup. That said, remember that these amounts are usually appropriate for a dog with an average activity level. So, if your Bernepoo is active, it is normal for them to eat more. If they are more sedentary, watch their portions or the fat level of their food. Bernedoodles can suffer from obesity if they eat too much and do not exercise enough. That said, it depends on the behavior of your pet. Some dogs have the habit of barely finishing their food even if their bowl is only filled once a day. But if you have an overeater at home, there are toys designed to make it more difficult for dogs to access their food in order to limit this habit and even enable them to recognize signals of satiety. What about treats? Not only is your Bernepoo at risk of becoming overweight if they eat too much, but treats are also not formulated to be balanced like their staple food. If your dog is having trouble with their teeth, you can find large kibbles that will force them to chew more, which will help reduce tartar. When choosing dog food , try it for a month and observe your pet throughout that time. Pay attention to their general condition: the luster of their coat, the condition of their eyes and muzzle, etc. Are they energetic, and playful? If not, this food may not be right for them. Nulo Freestyle may also be perfect for them, although this option is rather expensive. Her deep love for capuchin monkeys, pumas, and kangaroos has taken her worldwide to work and volunteer for several wildlife rehabilitation centers in Bolivia, Guatemala, Canada, and Australia. As a Canadian expat, Genevieve now lives in Argentina, where she wakes up every morning to horses and cows saying hello from the vast plain next to her home office window. She is the proud mom of three rescued dogs, Lemmy, Nala, and Pochi, and a frisky kitten, Furiosa. Having the privilege of sharing her knowledge and passion for animals of all kinds is what makes her fulfilled and happy.Read more Advertisement.

Whether you have a puppy or an adult poodle, it is best to start house training him soon after bringing him home. The earlier you begin, the quicker your poodle will know the proper place to go to the bathroom. The longer you wait, the more ingrained bad bathroom habits can become, making house training that much harder. Your poodle should know when it is time to go outside to use the bathroom. Since puppies cannot hold their bladders for very long, they will need to go out more frequently. Good times to take your puppy out are first thing in the morning, after playing, and after eating or drinking. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source As your puppy poodle ages, wait for longer periods before taking him out after different activities. This will strengthen his bladder muscles. Keep the schedule consistent to decrease the chance of accidents in the house. Your poodle should go to the bathroom in the same place every time he goes outside. This will help him remember where he should go. If you have a backyard, choose an area that is away from areas where people would go e. The area should also be away from potential distractions, such as a busy street. Put some puppy pee pads down so he can relieve himself when you are not home. As he gets older and can hold his bladder for longer, discontinue using the pee pads. Go to source If you do not have a yard, pick a nearby grassy area. Although you should identify the general area where your poodle should go, allow him to pick the exact spot within that area. When you take him outside, let him sniff around and explore within the general area until he settles on a specific spot. It may be tempting to give your poodle only a few minutes to go to the bathroom before you bring him in, especially if you are in a rush. However, rushing your Poodle when he is outside will not be very effective for house training—he may hold it so he can spend more time with you inside, increasing the chances of him having an accident. Ideally, you should give your poodle about 15 to 20 minutes outside. As you house train your poodle, reward him with positive reinforcement e. However, if he has an accident, do not punish him. Punishing him will make him fearful of you and make house training more difficult. Use an enzymatic cleaner that will remove the odor so your poodle will not go back to that same spot. Go to source If you catch him in the act of having an accident, interrupt him with a firm verbal command e. When he finishes eliminating outside, give him verbal praise and a treat. She is awesome! We love her dearly, I am the main care giver, my name is Marlette. The question is we have been consistent with Charlotte about sleeping in her cage, not with us. This is one Poodle who hates her cage. She does not bark or wine long but she does not sleep well in her cage. She gets up at in the morning and soon after wants to sleep during the day when she sits with me. I know this because I check her to see if she needs to go potty. After I find out she's okay she runs to my bedroom stands at the side of my bed I still put her back in her cage. It is so hard! I put a blanket, toys, treats but she would rather be with me then go to her cage. My husband thinks I hold her to much, I do feel she wants time with me in the day time and I am most happy to play, cuddle, train her then knowing she was in her cage all night. Charlotte only takes an afternoon nap in her cage. Charlotte loves to be with me if I leave the room she looks for me follows me everywhere. Could this be the problem? Answer: Hello There! This is one of the Poodle's most endearing qualities and it is why so many people choose to have a Poodle. Poodles love to be with their human family members and can become quite sad and despondent if they are not allowed to be close to their human. There definitely needs to be some adjustments to how things are being handled at night. However in regard to spending time with her during the day, there is no such thing as too much time with a dog. You are not spoiling your Poodle by holding her;you are simply giving Charlotte what she naturally needs.However, regarding the cage.There are several elements to consider: 1 You don't say how large or small this cage is; however we are assuming it is a small crate type enclosure. Metal wire cages are just terrible for dogs as the wire grating can cause havoc on paws. And both small crates and cages are too confining for a dog to be in overnight. For your Poodle's comfort, we would suggest choosing a designated area that would hold her dog bed and toys. This can be a small gated off area or an indoor canine playpen. You would leave the entrance to this open when you are home so your Poodle can enter into it when tired and wanting to take a nap and you would close it at night, to keep her secure and in one spot while sleeping. However, there is no reason to check on her as often as you do. Just the sound of you approaching may wake her up; dogs can hear so much better than we can. As you are tiptoeing up to her cage, most likely you think you're being super quiet but she hears you coming. So, from her perspective, she is sleeping or at least resting quietly , you come up to her. She believes that you are initiating interaction, so she in turn runs to your room. But wait! You really didn't intend for that.You put her back in her cage and now she's really confused. Is she supposed to sleep? Is she supposed to wait one more hour until you tiptoe back in? Is it a game.With your Poodle puppy being 4 months old, she can hold her urine for 4 hours. It is important that Charlotte learns to control her bladder as she grows up. At 5 months, she should be able to hold her needs for 5 hours.And then no matter how old she is, 8 hours will be the maximum time that she will be able to hold her bladder. And there is no need for you to be waking up so often. So, as you can see this is really not a matter of your Poodle hating her cage; it is just a matter of mistakenly training her to think she is supposed to keep leaving it to run to your room. As a side note, be sure to take her for a nightly walk about 2 hours before bedtime to tire her out, have the last snack of the day no later than 1. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. Fit the non-slip crate liner and add a comfy, cozy mat or bed. Provide your puppy with tasty treats and a couple of chew toys to tempt him inside the crate. A bowl of water is also essential that you can offer your puppy. Finally, you need to fasten the crate door open to prevent your furbaby from hurting himself if he bumps into it. Cut off a small piece of the blanket, and put it into the crate, wrapped up in the bedding. Keep the remaining piece of blanket somewhere safe and dry. You can now allow the puppy to investigate the crate. Poodles are curious, intelligent dogs, and you might even find that your pup goes into the crate immediately to eat the tasty treats inside. Poodles are clever pups who learn simple cue words pretty quickly, making your life much easier. You can begin using verbal cues from the get-go. Crate Feeding Crate feeding your Poodle can be a fantastic training technique, especially for shy, reluctant pups. Make a big deal out of dishing out the food so that your puppy gets excited. Now, put the bowl of yummy food just inside the door of the crate, out of reach of your puppy so that he has to go into the crate to get his meal. Next time you feed your puppy in the crate, move the bowl further back inside the cage. Eventually, your puppy should happily spend his meal times contained in his crate. Shut The Door Hopefully, your Poodle puppy will now view the crate as somewhere safe where he can enjoy his meals. Start by closing the crate door while your puppy is eating his meal. Be ready to open the door again as soon as the little guy finishes his meal. The idea is to keep your pet confined for around five minutes, but let your puppy out before he begins complaining. You should expect a small amount of whinging at this stage in the training process. If your pup starts complaining, turn around the ignore him. Once the puppy is quiet and calm again, you can turn around and open the crate door. If your puppy begins panicking and is distressed, open the door, and take a few steps back in the training process. Ignore the undesirable behavior, and wait until your pet desists and is calm again. Close The Door For Longer Periods If all is going well, you can start increasing the amount of time your puppy is confined to his crate. At this stage, your Poodle should be able to spend an hour or so in the crate before you let him out for a potty stop and some outdoor time. Potty Breaks Remember that your puppy must feel safe and comfortable when in his crate. So, you need to give your puppy some outdoor time every couple of hours and let him outside as soon as he comes out of the crate. Remember to factor in some bonding time after your puppy has relieved himself and before you put him back into his crate. After a month or so, you should expect your Poodle puppy to tell you when he needs to go out by heading directly to the door. By the six-month mark, your pup should be able to wait for around four to six hours before he needs to pee. Never expect your dog to wait for over eight hours before he has a chance to go to the bathroom! Clean Up Immediately! Unfortunately, accidents are inevitable when potty training your puppy, no matter how careful you are. Bad behavior issues can easily develop if your puppy becomes resentful of spending time in his crate. If the accident is outside the crate, clean your flooring thoroughly with an enzyme cleaning product. You must also clean the crate thoroughly to remove every trace of potty smell. Here are some harmful mistakes that you want to avoid. Never use the crate to punish your dog! Remember To Give Your Puppy Regular Breaks Very young puppies have extremely small bladders, so you need to remember to take your puppy outside for a bathroom break every two hours at first. The dog is a pretty hygienic animal, so you must not leave your puppy too long so that he has an accident in his crate, which would distress your pet and risk him associating his crate with bathroom spots. You must not expect an adult dog to wait for more than four to six hours before you take him outside for a bathroom break. You also need to socialize your puppy to be a well-adjusted, well-balanced dog. Final Thoughts I hope you enjoyed our guide to crate training your Poodle puppy? Please share the article if you do. Your Poodle should regard his crate as a safe spot where he can go when he needs to chill out and relax. The crate is also a useful tool for potty training your puppy and keeping your pet safe when you leave him home alone. Did you crate train your Poodle puppy successfully? How did it go? Tell us how you got on in the comments box below. Meet our writer Alison Page Alison Page was brought up with dogs and various other pets! For a few years, Alison worked as a Practice Manager in a small animal veterinary clinic. Alison is now a full-time writer, specializing in creating articles on the care and training of dogs, cats, and fish. Leave a Comment. They prefer a quiet, confined, enclosed area where they feel safe and secure. In fact, the proper use of a crate can help in housetraining, provide secure travel, lower the stress in a dog, keep a dog safe in certain environments, and keep him from damaging his surroundings. Wire crates vary from heavy gauge to lighter weight types which fold and store easily. Wire crates allow total ventilation and enable the dog to see everything in his environment. That visual stimulation may be too much for some dogs. Some dogs may pull or chew on the sheet covering the crate. To avoid this, place a piece of thin plywood on top of the crate. The plywood should be large enough to allow the sheet to hang a distance from the crate where the dog cannot gain access to the sheet. Plastic or metal airline crates are required to ship a dog by air. Most airlines have specific crate requirements for canine shipping, so consult with your airline carrier. An airline-approved crate also offers greater protection to the dog in an accident. Plastic airline crates separate into two halves which can be stacked for storage. They are also safer for small dogs or puppies as there is less chance of a leg, paw or jaw getting caught in the wire. Fabric or soft-sided crates are light weight, fold easily, and are convenient when traveling. A dog must be completely crate trained before you can trust him in a soft-sided crate, because the crate can be chewed through or rolled and moved. For these reasons a soft-sided crate is not recommended for puppies. New crates can be bought in pet shops and discount pet food outlets, from pet catalogs, at dog shows, farm supply stores, department stores, or on the Internet. Be prepared to thoroughly clean and disinfect a previously-owned crate before using it. The price will depend on the size, manufacturer and type. Many come with a removable floor. Some can be ordered with doors on the side or the end, or both. Various kinds of crate pads are available to cushion the bottom of the crate. Most crate pads are washable. Most dogs are very accepting of a crate. Any complaining at first from a puppy is more likely due to adjusting to his new environment and perhaps the loss of his littermates. Place the crate in a room the family uses, such as the kitchen. Keep it out of drafts and away from any blowing hot or cold air vents. Start by feeding the Poodle in the crate. This will make the crate a positive place and enable him to eat without any interference from other dogs or children in the house. Establish a routine. Put him in the crate for naps, when he must be left alone for a few hours, or whenever a responsible person is unable to supervise him. Be sure to remove a collar with tags as it might become caught in an opening or wire grates. Most healthy puppies learn to sleep through the night within a few weeks. Large puppies such as a Standard Poodle can be clean through the night as early as 8 weeks. Smaller puppies may take a bit longer. Housebreaking can be achieved more quickly if the owner is consistent about using a crate routine. Keep the pup crated for as long as it can hold it, then take the puppy straight outside, giving ample opportunity for the pup to relieve himself. Give the puppy a lot of praise when he eliminates and then take him back inside for at least 15 minutes of free time before going back in the crate. The idea is to build up the amount of time the pup is able to both hold it and remain free in the house by gradually giving the pup longer periods of free time inside the house, then crating for a period of time before letting him back outside. If you find your puppy is soiling the crate pads, towels or blankets in the crate, remove them and keep the bottom clear of any bedding. Some puppies will soil in their crate and hide it in their bedding. If there is no padding, the puppy must sit in his waste. Some puppies are used to eliminating on newspaper, so the use of paper to line the bottom of a crate is not recommended. All crates should be large enough to permit the animal to stretch out flat on his side, stand up and turn around. If you do not know the approximate adult size of your puppy, buy the larger size. For an adult dog, use a crate close to his length, measuring from the tip of his nose to the base of the tail. The height and width of the crate will be proportionate to the length. A temporary crate is most convenient for a puppy. Look for a used one. If you must use an adult size crate, make it smaller by placing a large plastic box in the back or making a moveable partition out of wire or wood. Make sure whatever you use is safe and secure if the puppy chews on it. If the crate is too large it is not as effective a tool for housetraining, because the puppy can move away from where he has eliminated. There are very few dogs that will not accept confinement. While more common with adult dogs than puppies, there are a few which seem to show signs of claustrophobia when crated. Before giving up, try a different kind of crate. If, despite every effort to use positive methods, the dog is obviously frantic or panicked, it is inhumane to continue its use. These dogs can do physical damage to themselves trying to escape. It is always worth trying, however. In most cases, use of a crate will prevent or solve undesirable behaviors, enhancing the relationship you have with your dog. A dog crate is not recommended as a method of confinement for a dog regularly left alone all day, although some dogs may learn to tolerate it. If necessary on a temporary basis, the dog must be well exercised before and after crating. Additionally, he will need extensive personal attention when you are home and freedom during the night rather than being crated again at bedtime. It is also very important that the crate is large enough so he can stand erect and stretch out fully on his side. An oversized crate is recommended. It must also have a non-spill water dish. Ideally, someone will come during the day to provide a time for elimination and exercise. An exercise pen x-pen can be attached to the front of each side of a crate, allowing the dog or puppy more room to move about while still being confined and providing a space outside the crate for him to eliminate. For puppies, a crate can be used as a playpen for general confinement. It should be large enough for a sleeping space with bedding at one end and a papered area for elimination at the other. Again, a water dish must be provided. Be aware that a puppy raised in isolation may suffer from lack of socialization, leading to difficulties in training, housetraining, and poor social skills with other people and dogs. Dogs are social creatures, and a puppy that lacks sufficient human contact will grow up to be a poorly-adjusted dog and pet. You can leave your dog home alone, knowing he will not damage your belongings. He is protected, comfortable, and unable to get into trouble. Housetraining is easier as the close confinement encourages cleanliness and control. You can establish a regular routine for your dog and prevent accidents in the house. You can keep the dog from being underfoot or in the way during meals, prevent him from wandering outside when people might leave outside doors open, or when he becomes over-stimulated and needs time to calm down. You can travel with your dog knowing that he cannot get loose in the car or escape if a door is open and that he cannot distract the He is safely confined for his protection in an accident, and he has the comfort of familiar surroundings when away from home. If you plan to show your dog in performance venues such as agility or obedience, it is essential that the dog be crate trained. Your dog needs a quiet place to relax while at the show. Simply lead the dog to the crate, put him in, and close the door. He has his own space, a den, where he can retire when tired, stressed, or needing to escape too much attention from children in the household. He can avoid the consequences of undesirable behaviors that have been prevented. He can more easily learn to control his bodily functions. He can remain in proximity to the family when supervision is impossible instead of being banished to the garage or yard. He can be included in family outings and trips rather than being left home or at a boarding kennel. Feeling secure in a crate will lessen his anxiety when he has to be crated at the vet or groomer. Accustoming your dog to a crate makes shipping the dog much less stressful. You want a well-mannered pet, and your dog wants to please you. A dog crate can accomplish this for you both. Additionally, the cost of a crate is minor compared to the expense of replacing furniture, carpeting, or veterinary bills from your dog eating inappropriate and harmful objects. This information has been provided to you at no charge. You are free to use it provided it is used in its entirety with no changes or alterations and that the copyright remains intact. If you have found this information to be helpful, please consider making a tax-deductible donation to: Versatility in Poodles Franklin, NC To make a donation via PayPal, please click the Donate Button: The contents of the www. The Content is not intended to be a substitute for professional veterinarian advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian with any questions you may have regarding the medical condition of your pet. Never disregard professional advice or delay in seeking it because of something you have read on this website! If you think your pet has a medical emergency, call or visit your veterinarian or your local veterinary emergency hospital immediately. Versatility in Poodles and www. Reliance on any information appearing on this website is entirely at your own risk. Menu Start Right Away! The most wonderful tool available for helping you train your puppy is a crate. After all Canines are den animals. If the crate gives your puppy just enough space to sleep comfortably, he probably will not want to use the crate as a potty area. That means that when you cannot directly supervise your puppy you can keep him in his crate, knowing that he will instinctively control himself when in the crate — as long as you do not leave him in there longer than his little puppy bladder can handle! If you leave a puppy in a crate for more than a couple of hours at a time, you are setting him up for failure. If you take him out often you will give him the opportunity to get it right. That is the GOAL!!! If you take him out on a regular schedule this will be discussed under House-Training , you will have even better success. When purchasing a crate there are two things to consider. The ultimate size of your dog. Our Standard Poodles tend to range from 45 to 55 pounds and stand 22 to 25 inches high at the shoulder. Unless you are going to be buying different crate sizes as the puppy grows, it is best to buy a crate with a divider. My recommendation is that you look at www. They come with a divider. Your puppy has already been introduced to the crate. So Crate Training should begin immediately upon your arrival home. There are numerous training aids which provide guidance in this area. However, since it is important to begin a training routine immediately, the following basic tips will give you a start: Never push or shove your puppy into the crate Never use the crate as a means of punishment Coax your puppy in with toys or a treat Reward your puppy with lots of praise and another treat Also note: Do not leave your new puppy alone in the crate for more than 2 or 3 hours during the day. Your puppy will need to relieve itself often. Because they do not naturally like to soil their sleeping area this works in your favor for potty training. They will whine or bark so you can quickly take them outside. In this way the puppy learns to tell you when it needs to go outside and you should show your approval. This may be a little challenging at first when the puppy seems to whine to want out of the crate. You have to set the pace as to what whine or bark you will accept. Do not give in to every whine or bark. If possible place the crate in your bedroom at night until your puppy feels secure. This also allows for you to hear its whine when it needs to go outside to potty. Use old towels or blankets for bedding to begin with. For the first few nights placing something of yours with your scent on it will help your puppy feel more comfortable and secure. Soon your puppy will be sleeping through the night. You establish the times for going to sleep and waking up. Be consistent. Thereafter do not place anything in the crate until his potty training is well under way. The idea here is that if your puppy has an accident he will be wet and uncomfortable until you come to rescue him. When your puppy is dry and clean for two weeks straight then you can try giving him a towel and see how he does. When possible leave the door open during the daytime in a restricted area so that the puppy can go in and out at will. The crate is not only used to help you house-break your puppy but also to help you establish yourself as leader and set clear limits for your young puppy. A puppy that is not crated gets into lots of expensive trouble before he is full grown. Dogs do not suddenly outgrow destructive chewing and getting into things, so it is best that they never learn that they can chew or destroy furniture or other valuables. More helpful hints: The rule for puppies between seven to fourteen weeks old is that they are in their crate more than they are out. When they are out they are confined to a puppy-proof area and under close supervision. If no one is available to watch, the puppy does not receive freedom. Remember, your puppy is a baby and also needs a lot of sleep and down time. When he is out of his crate he is usually in overdrive, playing hard. After about fourteen weeks you can start to be a little less vigilant and see how it goes. If your puppy is getting into trouble back up and limit his time out to supervision time only. Gradually work toward having your puppy out for longer and longer periods of time without him getting into trouble. Also, do not give him the run of the house. Start in a small area and as he earns your trust widen the area he is allowed to be in. As he gets close to a year old you can gradually leave your puppy out longer while you are home with less supervision. However, make sure you check on him frequently to be sure that he is not getting into trouble. Crate him when you leave the house, at least for the first eighteen to twenty-four months of his life. Remember, he is not considered full grown until he is two years old. When your Poodle has proven that he is trustworthy while you are home, you can then allow him out of his crate while you are out. Start with short periods of time. Eventually, when he can handle small amounts of time, you can extend his free times to longer and longer periods, until he can be home alone several hours of the day. To prevent future behavior problems by giving privileges too soon, your puppy should sleep in a crate from day one. The crate can be in your room, but your puppy should not be allowed to sleep with you. Using a crate is an excellent way to ensure that your puppy will not destroy something valuable. Be sure also to have lots of hard chew toys available for him to chew on. Dogs that are given too much freedom too soon are bound to get into trouble and learn to be destructive. Many behaviorists and dog trainers agree that separation anxiety can be triggered by failing to set boundaries and limit freedom when a dog is young. A young dog that does not get too much freedom too soon can learn to be alone without becoming destructive. Before we go any further we want you to know that the training of your puppy has already started. The mother of the puppies start training her babies right away. It is a delight to watch her gentle but firm ways. One thing she teaches them is about keeping there eating and sleeping areas clean. Here at Poodle Mojo we aid the mother in the natural training process and then we continue the process so your puppy comes to you already potty and crate trained. It is up to you to know how and to continue in their training. Remember… In order to house train your puppy successfully you must crate train your puppy. If you are buying your puppy from us it will have already been introduced to the crate. Yes, we have heard some people say that a crate is cruel. Well, these people think dogs are people instead of canines. Dogs are den creatures. They like a safe place to be able to go to. They also like their own place. If you have to relate in people terms, well then, you have a house and you have a bedroom. Some of you also have your favorite chair. The first training priority for most new puppy owners is house-training. This is definitely job number one for any puppies living with humans. Therefore, the key to this process is to reward your puppy when he does what you want, and to keep him from ever making a mistake. Supervision is the KEY in this process. Young puppies do certain things when they are getting ready to relieve themselves. Typically, they begin to sniff the ground while moving constantly, sometimes in a circle, looking for a good spot. Until your puppy is well trained, go outside with him. The right spot should be a spot that you always take him to until he can go out by himself. The Schedule The most effective house-training is a combination of crate training and schedule feeding and potty training. And remember consistency is the key to success. Here is an example of a potty schedule for an 8 week old puppy: am — Potty. There are three different poodle sizes — standard, miniature, and toy. Ranked 7 in breed popularity by the American Kennel Club, this wickedly clever canine breed can quickly be crate trained. How do you crate train standard, miniature, and toy poodles? The crate training process will be a similar process to training any canine breed. You will want to begin when a puppy to establish good habits early on and purchase a crate that is large enough for them to stand up comfortably. To crate train your poodle, no matter their size, you should follow these steps consistently: Introduce your poodle to their crate using positive reinforcement. Place treats and comforting items like blankets and favorite toys in the crate. Begin feeding your pup meals in the crate. Every two hours, take your poodle outside. Make sure that you are bringing them straight from the crate to the door each time. Ensure that every time the crate door is opened, you bring your puppy outside. Be mindful of giving your poodle adequate playtime and bonding time with you. Continue these steps until your puppy always goes to the door when they need to potty. This article will answer any questions you have about crate training, potty training, house training, and creating a better-behaved dog. It will cover each size variation and the details you need to know in caring for each unique poodle breed. Crate training can seem intimidating at first, but with a brilliant breed like the poodle, it will be a piece of cake! The process designates a safe space for your pup and instills in your poodle that, when they leave the crate, it is for a potty break. You may find it difficult or unsettling to leave your pup in a crate, especially during the first few weeks that they are home, and you want to cuddle and love your new poodle. However, establishing a routine as soon as possible will be the fastest and easiest way to guarantee your dog has fewer potty accidents in your home. How To Crate Train Poodle Puppies The process you will follow to crate train your poodle puppies consists of the following steps: Introduce them to the crate and use plenty of positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement will be your greatest ally in the crate training method. It allows your puppy to feel safe. Set some treats or toys in the crate and have it decked out with blankets and other comforting items. Allow them to sniff around the area and decide for themselves. Start feeding them meals in the crate, making this a safe spot where they can let their guard down. Always keep water in the crate and make it a nice place to rest. Take your puppy out every 2 hours and always take them directly outside after they come out of their crate. Make sure that while crate training, especially in the early stages, when the crate door is opened, you bring your poodle pup directly outside. Make sure that they are getting a balance of play and bonding time but are still going out every two hours or so, then directly back to their crate. For the most part, this is what the first month or two will run until you can trust them to tell you when they need to go out by going directly to the door. By the 6-month mark, your puppy will be able to hold their bladder for around hours, but you should never make a dog of any age hold their bowels and bladder for over 8 hours. There is no exact timeline for how long this process will take because all dogs are different, but it should last around weeks for most dogs. You could see drastic results in the first week and be able to offer your poodle more playtime, but you should remain diligent no matter how fast your pup catches on. By the third month, they should be taking you to the door or pawing at it when they have to go. The goal of crate training is that they will be able to communicate to you when they need to go in the future. If they are showing significant progress, reward them with more freedom but continue taking them out at the same time while heading directly to the door each time. A great behavioral training course can really help with crate training. I found a fantastic training system called Brain Training for Dogs. If you need any behavioral training at all for your dog, I would highly recommend this course! Check it out here The Potty Schedule Outlined In case you prefer a more specific outline or blueprint for scheduling, the following list gives the times that you should make sure to bring your poodle outside to use the bathroom: First thing when you wake up in the morning Before each play break Every 2 hours or so during the afternoon After their nap After each meal about minutes after eating to digest and have to go badly After drinking lots of water Right before bed As you can see, your poodle should get plenty of time outside of the crate. If you are not offering them this free time, you are doing it unethically and irresponsibly. It will be a gradual process of integrating them into the crate, and then once they are trained, slowly integrating them out of the crate while leaving the door open as an option. Follow these steps to implement the crate training process correctly: Start with more social hours at first with lots of potty breaks. After the first week or so, slowly add more crate time and reduce the amount of free social hours, adding an hour or two a day for the first few weeks. The middle of the process week should be very focused on maintaining a schedule. Two hours in the crate Right outside for a potty break. At this point, you can increase the social hours and reduce the crate hours. They will catch on in time, and they will finish their training when they are ready. Remember that accidents will happen during this training, and it is important not to punish your puppy because of them. You can add the following items to make it cozy for your pup: Fuzzy blankets A small water bowl Toys Chew bones Use rubber that is good for puppy teeth and gums. Do not use a real bone that could sliver off into sharp pieces. This could be a choking hazard for canines of any age, so you need to be very careful in selecting bones. These are some comforts that will make the crate feel like a safe haven instead of a punishment. I recently wrote the guide to the best toys for poodles. I discuss crate training related topics such as boredom and separation anxiety, as well as the best toys to help curb these behaviors. You can learn more here. This will only make them fear the crate and you, making the process take significantly longer or not work at all. Make it cozy and safe. Make meal-time designated to the crate. Leave treats in the crate when they successfully hold it for a potty break. Slowly add to the amount of time they must hold it. Some go by the method of the month to hour ratio for potty breaks. For example, if your puppy is two months old, they can hold it for two hours. If your puppy is three months old, they can hold it for three hours, and so on. Develop a term you say excitedly to invite them to go back to their crate. The reason that crate training works is because a dog is a relatively hygienic animal that will not want to sit with their urine or fecal matter. Some reasons why you should crate train your poodle are: It teaches them not to poop or pee where they sleep. It helps strengthen their resolve to control their bowels and bladder. This offers you peace of mind knowing you are not leaving them to develop bad habits. It helps your dog become well-trained for travel and comfortable with future crate-required plans. It offers them a safe shelter that is all their own. It lets them know that you alone establish their schedule. It helps the dog see you as the alpha and aids in your retaining control. This avoids having an out-of-control puppy that is beyond training. It will end up being their security blanket, and if done correctly, crate-training offers them a space they can retreat in for serenity and solitude. Mistakes to Avoid When Crate Training Your Poodle There are plenty of ways to accidentally do a disservice to your dog while crate training them. This will result in them fighting you the entire time, and you risk them not properly being potty trained. You will need to take them out often to avoid them sitting in their waste. You may consider taking them out every hour, but you must take them out at least every two hours. Do not confuse crate training with locking them up all day because they will need many potty and social breaks. Keep in mind that their bladders might be larger, and they can hold it for longer, but not more than hours. You may have to reprogram their brain that they need to hold it unless they are outside. They want to be creating a relationship with you and the world. If they are not getting time to play and enjoy human interaction, your poodle can quickly become depressed or develop anxiety. This is probably the most important takeaway you should hold on to. Now that you understand the basics of crate training, you must learn the differences between each type of poodle. The poodle breed overall has won countless blue ribbons, is the national dog of France, and is known for its pedigree and class. The three classifications for poodles that are based on their size are: Toy — The smallest variation will often be less than 10 inches tall and weigh under 9 pounds. They are bred from larger poodles, so they retain the same behavioral and personality characteristics as larger poodles. Miniature — The miniature poodle is closer to the toy poodle in size and is between 11 to 15 inches tall and weighs between 10 and 20 pounds. Standard — The largest variation of poodle will be over 16 inches tall with most being around 25 to 30 inches tall and weigh between 40 and 75 pounds. They are bred for retrieving and intelligence. Selecting A Crate for Your Poodle There are tons of crates to choose from, but your primary considerations going into the crate selection will be the following: Select a crate that allows your dog to stand up, spin around, and not feel claustrophobic. You will want it a few inches taller than their height when standing straight. If there is room to designate a bathroom area in the crate, it is too large. Crates for pets will most commonly come in the following materials: Wire Plastic Fabric If you select a wire crate, your pup can see their surroundings. This allows them to look around and feel included, while a plastic crate may have walls that make them feel too confined or left out. Best Crates for Each Poodle Size It can be difficult to know what size crate will work best for your poodle. Here are my favorite crates on Amazon for each toy, miniature, and. Crate Training Your Poodle: Behavioral Problems and Solutions Your dog will sometimes cry during the early stages of their crate training. Some common behavioral issues of the poodle breed to be aware of are: Barking at all hours of the night Digging holes in the yard or your carpet Chewing on furniture or shoes Jumping the fence when let outside Stealing human food Hand chewing or biting Potty accidents Many of these behaviors are triggered by a bored poodle that is not getting enough socialization, exercise, or bonding time. Play more games with them Provide toys that are mentally stimulating, like puzzles that release treats Provide more chew toys if they are biting hands. They may be teething and need special Puppy Chew Toys Teach them more tricks and take opportunities to train them Your poodle is very intelligent and loves to be trained. Give them more brain activity and tasks to accomplish, like training, and the happier your poodle will be. Dogs like to feel a sense of purpose, just like humans. Show them more attention, and most of these bad habits will cease. Without adequate care, your poodle will become depressed, anti-social, anxious, or downright badly behaved. Check out this video to help stop your poodle from barking in her crate: Final Tips on The Crate Training Process Potty training your puppy will be a challenging but worthwhile process! This psychological training will condition them to follow your lead, have their safe-space and territory, while also communicating more clearly when they need to go outside. Take their lead in how ready they are to be free of the crate. If they cry at night, it is normal. Animals get scared of the dark, just like humans. Reduce their anxiety by making them feel less isolated. When your puppy has playtime, leave the crate door open. You may notice that they go back in willingly. The right crate connects to their instincts and should be well-embraced by the poodle breed. If you are going to commit, commit properly by avoiding punishments and making this a consequence-free period of learning for them. In Conclusion Take the crate training technique on in baby-steps. The tortoise beat the hare for a reason. Offer your dog love, affection, treats, and consistency — and they will be potty-trained in no time! Crate training should not be about leaving them in the crate all day, but more about instilling healthy habits. The crate should feel like their safe space. Find more ways to add comforts and offer them treats each time they go in their crate. Be mindful not to rush the process or force it upon them. It will happen naturally as you develop your routine with one another. I hope you found it helpful. Here are some products that I personally believe every owner should employ to help ensure the best quality of life for their dogs. But in all honesty, these are the exact products that I use and recommend to everyone, even my own family. Lemonade Pet Insurance : Lemonade Pet Insurance has enabled me to afford a very high level of veterinary care for my dog, Angus. Even after he was diagnosed with cancer a few years back. This program actually works, and at a small fraction of the cost of hiring a dog trainer! Pet Plate is the dog food subscription service I use to provide extremely healthy, pre-portioned meals for my dog. Pet Plate gives my dog Angus the highest quality nutrition at a very affordable price. BarkBox : Without a doubt, my dog enjoys Barkbox more than anything else I buy him. BarkBox delivers a customized box of themed toys, treats, and other products to your door each month. In addition, I like that a percentage of proceeds is donated to local animal shelters. I Purchase this service for my dog Angus and have saved hundreds of dollars over visiting his local vet with questions or more minor health concerns. Brent Hartman I'm Brent Hartman. I've been a dog lover my entire life and have owned many animals over the years. When my black lab Angus passed away, I was looking for another friend to share my life with. As a result of my research, I've come to love poodles and wanted to share some of what I've learned with you. Whether you're looking to adopt a poodle, or already own one, I created Poodle report to be the ultimate guide to help you find the answers you need. Recent Posts.

Second Chance - Danielle Steel. In life and love, it's never too late for a second chance.As editor-in-chief of New York's leading fashion magazine, Fiona Monaghan was utterly content with her life, jetting back and forth between Manhattan and Europe-until the day John Anderson strolled into her office. A widower with two daughters, John was as conservative as Fiona was freewheeling, and was both amused and appalled by her world of high-strung designers, anorexic models, and Sir Winston, her snoring bulldog. But after Fiona impulsively invited John to the Paris couture shows, somewhere between the magic of the catwalk and the stroll along the Seine, she let him into her heart. Within weeks of their return to New York, John was making friends with Sir Winston - and Fiona was making room in her closets. A dazzling tale of modern misadventures, career-crossed relationships, the heady magic of instant attraction and the hope that comes when we dare to do it all over again.Second-hand book. REF: .This book will be removed when sold. Our Bulldogs have free range on our hectare farm, where they have ample space to thoroughly enjoy their daily walks and swimming in the dams. In the heat of a summer, our dogs have a much needed escape from the sun in our Wattlegrove forest. The only enclosure we use are is a huge comfortable area for any females in season. Click here for more information… Click to view our latest puppies. About our dogs and other animals. All our English Bulldog puppies are microchipped and vaccinated before being handed over to their new owners. We encourage and nurture a pack environment where all dogs interact with each other so that their socialising skills and confidence are in balance. Socialising also includes the interaction between the other farm animals, including our cats, chickens, ducks, turkeys, Alpacas, horses and our herd of specialist indigenous veld goats. We understand that it is impossible to breed a perfect dog, however, our methods ensure our dogs are healthy and happy as possible and are raised in a loving and calm environment. Please feel free to contact Ross if you wish to meet us and our animals. Share this page with your friends: About Bulldogs.

We rescue many animals from harsh conditions every year in Oklahoma City, and we aim to provide a quick adoption process so that we can go out and save more lives. We are dedicated to fighting animal cruelty and believe no companion animal should need to be euthanised for lack of a home. Animal care you can trust As well as caring for and fostering our animals until they are adopted, we are also happy to provide support and guidance if you are having any troubles with your pet. This is to keep all pets in their forever homes and out of the shelter system. We see all of you, our visitors and potential adopters, as our partners. If you are interested in adoption, we are happy to advise how to properly look after your chosen new friend. Welcoming all creatures great and small We opened our shelter after it became apparent that there were many stray and abandoned animals living in the local area. We aim to rescue as many homeless, sick and injured animals as possible. When we take animals into our care, we give them a thorough check-up and provide essential veterinary care if needed. We ensure that all our animals are healthy and have been well looked after by our staff before they can be offered for adoption to a new home. Now in Oklahoma City, too! We are a foster-based organization working out of Tulsa and now Oklahoma City! Our dogs are cared for in private homes and we do not operate a shelter. We are an all-volunteer organization. We are always in need of more help to answer questions, check applications, socialize dogs, transports dogs to adoption events and much more. Adopt: Fill out our adoption application here. Only approved adopters may schedule meet and greets with our dogs. Even if you are unsure which dog you would like to adopt, we recommend filling out an application and getting approved first so you are ready when the right dog comes along. To ensure your new family member is a good fit, dogs may be returned within 14 days of adoption for any reason. Adoption Requirements: We require all pets in the home to be spayed or neutered, up-to-date on vaccines and on heartworm prevention. If you rent, we will need authorization from your landlord that German Shepherds are allowed. We also require a fenced-in yard. References may not be related to you. If you have questions, please send us an email! Available Dogs: View dogs available for adoption here. To meet one of our dogs, please fill out an adoption application. Foster: We are in need of folks to provide short-term, in-home care for dogs in need until they are adopted. Veterinary care, food and a large crate are provided. If you can help, please complete our foster application here. Please note, fostering is for those who want to volunteer by providing temporary housing for homeless dogs. If you are planning on adopting and just want to try out a dog in your home to see if it is the right fit, please fill out an adoption application. Only approved adopters can schedule meet and greets with our dogs. All adopted dogs can be returned within 14 days of adoption for any reason. As we work out of Tulsa and Oklahoma City, we prefer fosters to be within a 1-hour driving distance to Tulsa or OKC so they can bring a foster dog to adoption events and veterinary appointments if needed. Online Auction: Over the past few months, our rescue has seen a significant increase in dogs that have been surrendered or abandoned. When we do not have enough fosters, we have had to put dogs in boarding which also is an added expense. To raise much-needed funds, we are hosting an online auction. We will have items such as unique products and services, tickets to special events, art, jewelry, wine, restaurant and hotel gift certificates, dog items, gift baskets, etc. Stay tuned for more information! If you or your business would like to donate an item, please email: oklahomagsr gmail. Every little bit helps and the value of your donation is tax-deductible. Each auction contributor will be recognized in the online event and our Facebook page. Events: Check our Facebook page for a schedule of adoption events. Small donations add up! You may donate online or by mailing a check. Your donation is tax-deductible. Thank you! Donate Here Need to surrender a dog? If you are the owner of the dog you want to surrender, please fill out the owner surrender form. Please contact your local animal shelter or the closest SPCA or humane society for more information. View available dogs below. To adopt one of our dogs, please submit an application. Adoption Requirements: We require all pets in the home to be spayed or neutered, up-to-date on vaccines and on heartworm prevention. If you rent, we will need authorization from your landlord that German Shepherds are allowed. We also require a fenced-in yard. References may not be related to you. If you have questions, please send us an email! Be sure to check your email inbox and spam folders after submitting your application, as that is how we will communicate with you. An email notifying you if you are approved will come from Shelterluv. Only approved adopters may schedule meet and greets with our dogs. Even if you are unsure which dog you would like to adopt, we recommend filling out an application and getting approved first so you are ready when the right dog comes along. To ensure your new family member is a good fit, dogs may be returned within 14 days of adoption for any reason. Please allow up to 5 business days for processing. We are an all-volunteer group with no paid staff. Many of our volunteers work full-time jobs and help the rescue in their spare time. We strive to reply to everyone in a timely manner. Please note, your application will be processed quickly if you fill it out completely and email medical records. This page is powered by Shelterluv. Learn more www.

The link has been copied! Is it possible to tire out a German Shepherd? This is a question many Shepherd owners have found themselves asking on more than one occasion. German Shepherds are naturally high-energy dogs and few families are physically active enough to keep up with them. This begs the question, how much exercise does a German Shepherd need? And the next one, is it possible for them to get enough? While it may not seem like it sometimes, it is definitely possible for German Shepherds to get enough exercise. Overexercising can actually instigate the hip dysplasia problems that the breed is already prone to. Thus, it is important to know how much exercise your German Shepherd should be getting — and what kind. By the end of this article, you'll know exactly how to get your pup some quality, healthy exercise. Originally, they were bred for hard work on the farm, herding and guarding flocks of sheep. They would spend hours each day keeping the flock together, which requires a lot of running. Plus, they were constantly on alert for danger and ready to neutralize threats to their charges. These high-energy dogs need plenty of exercise to stay happy and healthy. For most dogs, this translates to at least 90 minutes of exercise each day. This can happen in bursts throughout the day and a wide variety of high-energy activities count. This includes taking them for walks or runs, hiking, playing fetch, agility classes, and so much more. If you're an active person looking for a running or hiking buddy, a German Shepherd is a perfect dog for you! They have the energy and endurance to keep up with you on long walks or runs. German Shepherds also make great agility dogs - they love to jump, run, and play! If you're looking for a fun way to exercise your German Shepherd and yourself! Maybe you have a hard time sitting still or concentrating on a task. You might even feel a little anxious. Whatever it is, the frustration dissipates as soon as you go for a good run. German Shepherds are like that — all the time. However, individual needs vary. These can be based on factors such as age, general health, overall fitness level and habits, and more. They may try to get your attention by barking, whining, or jumping up on you. Perhaps they pace back and forth or otherwise appear anxious. Excessive Chewing or Digging With those feelings of restlessness pushing them, dogs start to look for ways to burn off their excess energy. Unfortunately for us, this usually means they start digging up the yard or chewing on the furniture. Whatever is within a bored German Shepherd's reach has no hope for escape. Excessive Barking Another annoying method they will use to burn off excess energy is to bark at everything that moves. They may be trying to give themselves a job to do, seeking attention out of boredom, or both. Weight Gain Just like people, a lack of exercise puts German Shepherds at risk of gaining weight. This is especially true if they have free access to food. They may eat more out of pure boredom. Unfortunately, these dogs are already susceptible to problems like hip dysplasia, which is greatly exacerbated by being overweight. Thus, they need plenty of exercise too. However, they need it in shorter, more frequent doses. Playful pups get a lot of it themselves as they run around and explore their world. However, you should provide about 5 minutes of formal exercise such as a walk for every month of their age. The best exercises for German Shepherd puppies are short walks or runs, playing fetch games, and swimming. These activities will help them burn off some of their energy while learning commands and socializing with other dogs. Exercise for Senior German Shepherds As dogs age, their muscles get weaker and their joints become more sensitive. Senior German Shepherds should get at least 20 minutes of exercise a day, but no more than 60 minutes. The best type of exercise for senior German Shepherds is walking or slow jogging. Swimming is also a great exercise for a senior German Shepherd as it puts no strain on their joints. Other forms of low-impact exercise for senior German Shepherds include playing fetch and agility training. Just make sure to keep the activity level low and short, and never push them too hard. The Best Type of Exercise for German Shepherds The best type of exercise for German shepherds is a combination of aerobic activity and mental stimulation. Aerobic activity is important for German Shepherds because it helps to keep their heart and lungs healthy. Mental stimulation is also vital for preventing boredom. In addition to daily walks or runs, German shepherds also benefit from other forms of exercise, such as active games like fetch or tug-of-war, swimming, and agility training. If you have the space, it might be helpful to set up an agility course in your yard. Another great option is to enroll your dog in dog sports. If you want to really give your German Shepherd a workout, dog sports such as agility or flyball are excellent. These activities will tire your pup out both physically and mentally. You can also get dog toys that are specifically designed to be mentally stimulating for pups. These are helpful for days when you are short on time, but should not take the place of regular exercise. If you like to be active, include your pup! Take your dog hiking with you and give him a chance to explore different terrain and new areas. The Fi GPS collar is a great tool for tracking how much exercise your dog gets each day. They are equipped with an activity monitor that keeps track of your dog's walks, when they go for walks, how long they exercise, and even when they sleep. Using the app, you can check your dog's activity levels and sleep patterns in real time. German shepherds are versatile dogs that can excel at any type of exercise, so get creative and have fun with it. For more helpful articles about pet-parenting tips, check out the Off Leash blog at TryFi. Want to know more about TryFi. This is the fastest way to find your dog after an escape. Try the Fi Dog Collar today! You might also like. Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. You need the best exercise for German Shepherd puppies to keep them healthy, fit, and, more importantly… Out of mischief! Quite the opposite is true for your fast-growing breed! German Shepherd puppies should stick to only five minutes of continuous, on-leash leisurely walking at a time, based on their age in months. So, an 8-week-old puppy can walk for 10 minutes at a time on a leash, while a 6-month-old can walk on a leash for 30 minutes at a time. However, your puppy can enjoy low-impact, gentle exercises for longer periods of time. You can play games that work on sustained growth multiple times per day safely. Instead, exercise on soft surfaces, for example: Grass Sand Dirt paths or trails Stretching of soft ligaments at too early an age, strains on young, growing joints, and carrying too much weight on their overall framework can and will harm your young puppy. This leads to problems in adulthood, which you could avoid! Remember to watch for: Panting heavily with rapid breath Lagging on their walks for longer than usual Stopping on walks and standing Lying down on their belly or side If your dog is hyperactive and displays excessive chewing and destructive behavior, they may need engaging brain stimulation to help them use their brains to engage in their environments constructively. Ideally, you also need to teach them basic commands and house manners. Start now with basic obedience training to avoid later behavioral issues. Eventually, your active, adult GSD will need at least 2 walks of 45 minutes each source. Other great ways to exercise your German Shepherd puppy include working on their balance, enjoying mental stimulation, and playing gently with toys they love. Until your vet clears your dog as having their bones fully fused this is around 12 to 18 months of age , activity should be cautious and slow-paced. Up to twelve months of age, natural free running is the best way to exercise German Shepherds. With free running, your dog is off-leash and can stop or slow as they wish. Limit and monitor on-leash walks and activity while your German Shepherd is growing. When walking on a leash, allow them to Walk at their own pace Stop and start as they please Sniff around leisurely to explore the grass, flowers, and trees Lay down, roll around, and dig in approved digging places Use a no-pull harness with a design that allows for natural shoulder movement to avoid unnatural gait development. Try this padded no-pull harness on your German Shepherd to avoid any neck injuries to her while she is young. This design also limits pulling and helps teach nice leash walking manners. The handle on the back of the no-pull harness makes it easy to grab your pup to stop them from running into a hazard or just to catch them! Read more helpful information on the benefits and disadvantages of using a harness or a collar to help you choose the right equipment for walking your new puppy. There are plenty of other ideas to try with your new baby German Shepherd. Even better? You can find so many ways to learn what your new German Shepherd puppy likes to play with for their fun and games! Keep reading for a German Shepherd puppy exercise chart and specific, step-by-step fun games to keep your new pup happy and healthy. Exercising puppies heavily too early in life may lead to joint damage. This is especially likely in large breeds with rapidly growing and heavily loaded joints, such as your GSD. High-Impact Activity to Avoid Jumping, especially from couches, furniture, or cars Twisting such as chasing a toy that wildly moves in many directions Exercising over hard or uneven ground especially sidewalks and asphalt Keep exercise short and frequent, as this is more beneficial than long, infrequent periods of activity. Stick to softer surfaces, like grass and dirt paths, while your pup is young and their bones are not fully fused. Most GSD owners simply want to take train their puppy to walk on a leash in the neighborhood and park without getting pulled down the street. There are three basic ways to communicate how you want your German Shepherd puppy to walk on a leash with you: the stopping method, the turning method, and the luring method. The Stopping Method Open the door, but only open the door if your dog is sitting. This step could take some time and practice. Once you both are out the door, have your dog sit again. You need to lock the door and your dog needs to sit for this. During your walk, have your dog sit for you at various times. When he does offer a tasty, high value, quick-to-eat treat. Now immediately start walking again and give the release cue. Stand still and wait until he sits. This could take a while. This is important, especially because one day your little pup will be large enough to injure you if they pull you along on the walk wildly! This will take lots of time and patience. But setting a strong and obedient walk foundation allows you to enjoy your walks more and maintain control over your large breed dog as they mature and grow stronger. The Turning Method Use the same steps as above to get outside your house and begin your walk, except instead of stopping and waiting on your dog, turn in the opposite direction and begin walking the other way. Quietly turn around and guide them along when they get a few steps ahead of you. You may also tire of turning. But stick with it. Either of these techniques takes plenty of patience and a strong mental character. But your dog loves to learn. Their mind is like a sponge at this young age, but they also lack obedience skills and an attention span. Use treats and toys to get your dog to follow you. The Treat Luring Method: Hold the treat at their eye level in front of them so they can see and smell the treat. Take one or two steps forward, having them follow the treat with their nose and eyes. They will probably keep following the treat. She loves them! Take a couple of steps forward while squeaking the toy. As they follow, keep stepping forward and squeaking the toy. After a few successful steps forward, let them play with the toy as their reward. Keep up this game to motivate them to follow you. Eventually, your dog gains confidence in their new surroundings and with your help and will walk on their own. Never allow your dog to run loose near traffic. Never unleash your dog in a new area. Never allow your dog to eat objects found on the ground. They could be poisonous! Never think a person running or someone on a bicycle sees your little pup. Puppies are quick moving and can dart in front of a moving person causing them to trip and fall. This can also injure your dog as they may fall on top of them or kick or step on them. Pup is distracted Remember that being outside with your dog is equivalent to you going to Disney Land! Give them a chance to develop their attention skills, or use the high value treats to make them pay attention to you. If you are limited in the places you can go, choose different routes so your dog gets to experience new smells and sights. The dog looks stressed or afraid Find quieter areas to walk in or use the lure and reward method to help them overcome their walking fears. Carry them home and end your walk. Next time, go a shorter distance and take less time. Use positive training and rewards to communicate. The best walking setup for a puppy is a no-pull harness that connects at two different points in the front and back. No-pull harnesses are great for introducing your puppy to structured walks while keeping them safe and happy. Need More Manners Training? Your GSD needs to learn more than just walking nicely. He also needs to learn all the basics of obedience. Use this free training guide to get started today! This activity is usually one of the longest and hardest to teach since you are competing with the sights and smells of the great outdoors! Stay patient, positive, and stick to your training. Your doggie will love you for it! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. Post header Skip post header How much exercise does a German Shepherd need? Making sure your German Shepherd gets plenty of exercise and mental stimulation is really important for keeping them healthy and happy. Regular exercise can not only keep them in good shape, but it can also help improve their behaviour and well-being. How much exercise does a German Shepherd need? German Shepherds are highly active dogs , originally bred for working and guarding flocks of sheep, and more recently used by military and police forces. All this means that German Shepherds are among the most high-energy dogs out there. Of course, their exercise needs can vary based on a number of factors including age, fitness level, general health, food intake and more. That said, most German Shepherds usually need at least 90 minutes of exercise daily. This can be spread across the day and include all sorts of high-energy activities, like walking, running and playing. To get an exercise goal tailored to your dog, simply download the free PitPat app and enter their details. How much exercise does a German Shepherd puppy need? This is especially true for this breed since they are prone to conditions like hip dysplasia. As a rule of thumb, puppies will need five minutes of formal exercise such as walkies for every month of their age. These walks should be opportunities to explore their environment, work on training and good behaviour outdoors, and socialise with other people and dogs in a controlled manner. How much exercise does a senior German Shepherd need? You can also set your own goals manually in case they have higher or lower exercise needs. What types of exercise are best for German Shepherds? German Shepherds excel at all sorts of exercise and canine sports thanks to their working background. In addition to their daily walks, you could try:. Sep 06, Puppies need exercise to develop healthy bones, muscles and hearts. Exercise goes a long way to help curb anxiety and behavior issues related to boredom. But you may have heard that too much exercise can be harmful. How much exercise is necessary, how much is too much, and what kinds of exercise should you be doing? As a general rule, your puppy knows best. Normal puppy play is okay, and you should never feel as though you should stop your puppy from playing on its own accord. Short walks are also okay, as long as your idea of a short walk isn't 3 miles every morning! Short games of fetch and tug are also okay. Fetch is especially hard on the body because most dogs rapidly accelerate to go after the ball and rapidly decelerate once they get to it, so good throws is plenty in conjunction with other acceptable exercises. Tug is also hard on the body, so minutes is plenty in conjunction with other acceptable exercises as well. Swimming is a great, low-impact exercise. Just make sure your puppy doesn't ingest too much water while swimming. It's also recommended that you not play fetch in the water because dogs can accidentally ingest a lot of water when retrieving toys thrown into bodies of water. Examples of exercises that are too rigorous for puppies are long hikes, running steps, long games of fetch, long walks, running, jogging, weight pull and pulling carts of any kind, wearing vests with anything over a few ounces in it for anything other than a short stroll, flyball, and inappropriate amounts of agility training. All of these things are stressful on soft, growing bones and joints and can result in hip and elbow dysplasia and musculoskeletal deformities, diseases and injuries. As a rule of thumb, don't exceed 5 minutes for each month of the puppy's age of acceptable exercise no more than twice a day. For instance, 15 minutes of exercise twice a day is ideal for a 3-month-old puppy, while 20 minutes twice a day is ideal for a 4-month-old puppy. As a general rule, you can start building up puppies to adult levels of exercise once they turn 9 months of age if they're not expected to grow over 25lbs. By a year they can be exercised as an adult as long as you properly build up their stamina. For medium and large breeds, you can begin to build them up to adult levels of exercise by 15 months and it's safe to exercise them as adults once they turn 18 months old. German Shepherd dogs will naturally travel in a cantering-lope rather than a slow walk. That means that it is imperative that you train your puppy early on how to walk on a leash by your side without pulling. German Shepherds are a powerful breed and are capable of dragging handlers who aren't strong enough to hold them back. Eliminate the possibility of a physical tug of war by relying on solid training instead. Remember, exercise is also great for keeping hip and elbow joints stabilized in German Shepherd Dogs. Many large breeds are known to suffer from hip and elbow problems later in life, but dysplasia seems to unfairly target the German Shepherd. Regular exercise can help to build muscle around joints to protect them. The more muscle, the less stress on the joint. Make sure you keep your puppies lean, well hydrated, and wait an hour or two after your puppy eats before exercise. If you stick by these rules, you lessen the chances of hip and elbow dysplasia, panosteitis, strains, sprains, ligament injuries, bloat, obesity, heart disease and arthritis. Also keep the temperature in mind and watch for signs of heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Stop exercise if your puppy no longer wants to play or stops to rest and everything should be fine. Beginners often have a lot of questions: how long should they walk with a German Shepherd, how often should they do it, and what are the rules of feeding and vaccination. Therefore, before the responsible purchase, it is important to get acquainted with the nuances of ownership. At what age can you walk a German Shepherd? Experts have different opinions about the age at which a German Shepherd can go for a walk. There are two polar positions, so owners should consult their breeder or veterinarian. Some experts, when asked how to properly educate the pet, argue that it is categorically not recommended to walk puppies before they reach 3 months old. This is due to the high vulnerability of puppies to infections, which they can catch while playing with other dogs during the period when routine vaccinations have not yet been done. Put napkins or gravel or sand on it. Keep a close eye on your puppy. The negative side of this approach is the increased likelihood of encountering puddles of urine at night even in adulthood. According to the opposite opinion, up to 2 months old puppies still have the immunity received from their mother, so you should start walking outside as early as possible. Increased production of vitamin D due to exposure to sunlight, preventing the development of rachitis. Frequent exposure to nature increases the production of general immunity. If you decide to walk your puppy from an early age, you must choose a small but clean area and prevent him from coming into contact with other animals, especially stray ones. Until the German Shepherd reaches the age of six months , you should carry him in your arms when walking up a flight of stairs. His spine is not yet strong enough, so sprains when going up and down are detrimental. How long should you walk The duration of a walk with a German Shepherd puppy should increase in increments. In the first days, minutes is enough to familiarize the dog with the world and empty the bowels and bladder, but you need to go out times a day. It is better to go out right after feeding. Further, the duration of time outside should be in accordance with age: three months — about half an hour, the puppy should definitely run; four months — from 40 minutes to 1 hour; at six months, the normal mode of walking is established — at least two hours, twice a day. If it is possible to walk longer, you should take advantage of the opportunity. You need to figure out how to walk your German Shepherd correctly. To do this, you need to follow a few tips. It is important to use every walk outside to teach your dog to potty outside the apartment or house. While the dog is still very young but is already used to having to pee outside, spontaneous but short walks at night are likely. Up to 6 months old, it is important to make sure that the dog does not jump over any obstacles. As with ladders, this harms the skeleton and back muscles. You should try to take your German Shepherd outdoors during daylight hours so that he can enjoy the sunlight. After exploring the nearest surroundings, you should decide where to walk for an extended period of time. Great if there is a park or square nearby where it is allowed to walk the dogs. It is also important to go to special doggy playgrounds. You need to give your pet some freedom to get to know other puppies and adult dogs. It allows: Control the movements of the dog and accustom the puppy to the leash. Helps in the initial stages of training. Prevents him from eating unhealthy food picked up off the ground. Provides safety when stray dogs appear. More mature dogs can be leashed to a collar. Answering the question of when you can put the collar on the puppy, many experienced breeders responded with a recommendation to do it as early as possible, so that the puppy got used to the foreign object initially. Before buying a collar or harness, it is important to pay attention to the material: Leather — is the most durable, suitable for walks and training, but it is recommended to replace it in rainy or snowy weather. Leather gets wet, stretches, and loses its durability from moisture; Tarpaulin — holds its shape in all conditions, but is prone to contamination and has a short lifespan; Synthetic — is versatile and does not have the negative qualities of the previous 2. To properly put on the harness or collar during the period of accustomization, you need to create a comfortable atmosphere for the puppy: calmly call by name, and offer a treat. Before buying, it is important to measure the pup. This will allow you to choose the optimal size collar, in which the German shepherd will feel comfortable, and walks will be a pleasure both for the pet and for its loving owner. David W. I admire German Shepherds. They are magnificent dogs! I have been dealing with dogs, namely German Shepherds, throughout my life. I have been working part-time as a dog trainer and instructor for about 5 years, dealing mainly with German Shepherds. So I know a bit about these animals. Therefore, I decided to share my knowledge and experience about this fantastic breed. If you need help with advice and care tips or want to know more about German Shepherd dogs, welcome to this blog. Puppies Establishing an efficient exercise routine for a German Shepherd puppy is extremely important for your GSD to live a healthy lifestyle. While there is no exact science to knowing your German Shepherd puppy exercise limits, it is best to slowly ease into a routine and your puppy will gain stamina over time. Dogs are creatures of habit and love a routine. Accordingly, if you normally walk your puppy first thing in the morning, your pup will start to expect and look forward to those morning walks as soon as you roll out of bed. Try and establish an exercise routine that you can maintain long term, so your puppy can grow to learn the routine. The American Kennel Club UK recommends two exercise sessions of 5 minutes per month of age during puppyhood 1. When Allie was a puppy, I found short walks multiple times a day worked well. I started Allie with short minute walks times a day as an 8-week-old puppy. This served two purposes, to get some of her energy out, as well as getting her used to walking on a leash. Finding the Right Length of Walks for Your Puppy Although there are many recommendations as to how long to walk your German Shepherd puppy, it is best to look to your puppy for clues on its limits. Start with 10 minutes, 2 times a day. If you find your puppy is still a ball on energy increase it to 15 minutes, or you can add in a third minute walk. You want to find the walking time that is right for your individual GSD puppy as all puppies are all different and will require different amounts of exercise. Keep in mind, that it can be dangerous to push your German Shepherd puppy beyond his or her limits at a young age. If your German Shepherd puppy show signs of being tired or exhausted, stop the walk immediately and allow your pup to rest. Final Thoughts Establishing a solid exercise routine for your German Shepherd puppy is an important step in establishing the framework for a healthy lifestyle. In addition to walks, I would include short play sessions in the yard with a ball or play with toys in the house as well. The most important thing with walking a German Shepherd puppy is to start with short walks and play sessions and build on that process as your puppy grows. How much exercise does your German Shepherd puppy need? Your puppy does not need nearly the amount of exercise an adult dog does. Adult German Shepherds require two hours or more of exercise every day. And within that time, the duration of exercise depends on intensity. Your dog would not spend an entire two hours performing high-intensity exercises unless in formal training. A typical routine would include 20 to 40 minutes of rigorous exercises such as jogging, vigorous playing, or other activities. Some examples are practicing Shutzhund, preparing for herding or agility trials, or learning search and rescue. The remainder of the time dedicated to exercise, you should spend on training, ongoing socialization, and moderate- and low-intensity activities. You can include warmup and cool down in a moderate or leisurely walk. Keep in mind any puppy who is not full-grown does not need to engage in rigorous exercise for extended periods. What is the five-minute per month rule? However, one rule that makes sense as a loose guideline, is to exercise your pup for five minutes per month of age. You can do an exercise session twice a day. If you bring a GSD puppy home at ten weeks old, your exercise guideline would tell you to work with her for about .A six-month-old puppy , which you may be tempted to treat as a miniature adult, should still only get about half an hour of exercise twice a day. By 10 or 12 months , your Shepherd is up to his quota of nearly two hours split into multiple sessions during a day. However, you should still limit jumping and long-distance running until you are sure your puppy has finished growing. How do you know when your Shepherd puppy has stopped growing? This closure signifies your dog has finished growing and can engage in exercises that may be too strenuous for bones that are softer when lengthening. Once growth plates close and the joints no longer have laxity from extreme youth, you can take exercise to the next level. How can you tell if your Shepherd has stopped growing without a radiograph? According to Animalso. Use particular caution with certain working lines as they may not reach full maturity until the age of three years. Even though Czech and Eastern German lines have lower incidences of hip dysplasia than show dogs, you still need to treat their growing bones with care. Common beliefs notwithstanding, if you neuter a German Shepherd at a young age, the decrease in testosterone generally will delay growth plate closure. You will notice that neutered male German Shepherds are often taller than their unaltered counterparts. Therefore, assume if you neuter your dog, he will physically mature a little later. Mentally he will mature worlds ahead. How does hip dysplasia affect German Shepherd puppies? Hip dysplasia is a growth abnormality that affects most large-breed dogs and many small breeds as well. As you likely know, the hip is a ball and socket joint. The ball is the head of the thigh bone or femur, and the socket is the acetabulum or cup in the pelvis. In dysplasia of the joint, the femoral head grows at a different rate than the socket. Rather quickly, the femoral head no longer fits correctly or congruently within the socket, affecting function and causing scrapes across the protective cartilage, according to ACVS. Inappropriate looseness of the joint exacerbates the condition by allowing too much movement within the joint. Depending on the severity, affected puppies and dogs may show mild to life-altering symptoms. Signs of joint laxity or looseness usually occur first, although they may go unnoticed. Visible space between the head of the femur and the pelvis — Sometimes you can feel the excessive space when you cannot see it. Crying out in pain — Even if it has not progressed yet to degenerative joint disease, joint looseness can be painful. Abnormal gait — Your puppy may appear to bunny hop in the rear legs or exhibit other gait abnormalities that you would not classify as obvious lameness. Lame — Your dog will show lameness if she is in pain. Difficulty getting up or laying down — Your puppy may even show consistent reluctance to get up. Decreased interest in playing, especially if it involves running. Exercise intolerance — Your pup will play, but not for as long as you would expect. Maybe your dog seems to tire easily. Difficulty negotiating stairs — Joint looseness greatly affects the athleticism of your dog. Will not sit square — Many trainers advocate you enforce your dog sitting square as a sign of true obedience. Dogs with hip issues, they are unable to sit comfortably unless their hind legs are to one side or the other. Joint laxity can be difficult to judge in young dogs. Puppies have a greater degree of laxity than adult dogs to accommodate growth. Joint laxity should limit how long you walk a German Shepherd puppy , especially one under six months old. Joint laxity means your puppy will experience significant instability when walking, predisposing her to stumble and fall. Signs of osteoarthritis mostly manifest as pain, dysfunction of the joints, decreased range of motion, and even grinding sounds as the leg moves. Degenerative joint changes, believe it or not, can occur in puppies only several months old. German Shepherds do not typically have a problem with obesity. Although it seems counterintuitive, too much nutrition is not an ideal thing for the GSD. If a large-breed dog grows too quickly as a puppy, he can be more vulnerable to hip dysplasia if he already carries the genes. The dilemma comes with balancing exercise requirements and nutrition, so you have a happy and fit puppy who is not overweight but also does not overexert herself. How does exercise affect hip dysplasia? Although hip dysplasia has a large hereditary basis, over exercising a puppy can exacerbate the problem in a dog who might not otherwise develop any symptoms. It is important not to allow your puppy to run excessively or jump during her growing months. Moreover, if your puppy has excessively lax joints, overstretching during long and strenuous running or launching and landing for jumps can cause direct injury to the hips and surrounding soft tissue. Your puppy can also injure her growth plates. An X-ray at an early age gives you an idea if your puppy is already showing the effects of DJD or degenerative joint disease. Your veterinarian may be able to advise you further if your exercise program is too strenuous for your puppy based on any changes in the joints. How do you know your puppy overexerted himself? You may occasionally find that your puppy overdoes it. Perhaps you took him to a birthday party for his Labrador friend, and you did not have the heart to break up their play session. Most of the time, a play date that gets out of hand or a walk that runs over the anticipated time allotment will not cause any permanent damage. You can assess your pup the following day for signs of overexertion and know to take it exceptionally easy for the next day or two. Listen to your puppy Although you should leash-train your GSD at a young age, starting as soon as you first bring her home, there is much to be said about freeform exercise. The biggest benefit of your puppy exercising a good part of her time in the early month off-leash is she can self-regulate her activity. You will notice when puppies are tired or become sore, they will stop dead in their tracks. Make sure your puppy is in a safe environment, and she can engage in fairly unrestricted exercise on her own. When you are walking your puppy on a leash, under no circumstances should you push her to go beyond the point where you are dragging her, or she sits down and refuses to move on? You may have to carry her the remainder of the journey. As your German Shepherd approaches adolescence at five to seven months old, you will have to monitor his exercise more because what he can do will begin to exceed what he should do. Running over rolling terrain for miles or training strenuously for pursuit work is not ideal for an immature Shepherd and can be potentially harmful. Best length of time to walk a German Shepherd puppy: you know best! When facing the question of how long should you walk your German Shepherd, use the rough guidelines of five minutes per month of age a couple of times a day. Otherwise, allow your pup to dictate her level of tolerance for playing and romping. You can spend additional time with your puppy building a bond through affection and play, while still limiting duration. Your pup will need some time during the day to herself and sleep. This video shows the progression of a puppy and how his exercise abilities change. It perfectly illustrates how the young Shepherd dictates how much exercise he can tolerate. Notice, in the beginning, the interaction with his owner is a large part dependent on easy contact. As the puppy progresses in age, he gradually attempts more. If you watch puppies even three and four months old engaged in self-directed play, their actions are marked by frequent pauses to rest or think about the next move. Rarely will you see a German Shepherd laying still, but as in the video, puppies will take time to rest if left to their own devices. Swimming is a great form of exercise, but not all German Shepherds love water. This video shows that just because your German Shepherd puppy is not on a leash does not mean you are not walking her. Training should take up a good portion of your walks or exercise sessions, whether on- or off-leash. As much of a brilliant pupil as this puppy is, her session should not be longer than 15 minutes. Notice her yawn, which can be a sign of tension or a wandering mind, indicating the exercise should move to something else or stop.

It is owned and operated by myself, Wendy Weber and my husband, Richard Weber. We are an active family who love the outdoors and spending time hiking, running, cross country skiing, gardening and having our dogs by our side. We have been breeding for 16 years. We ensure each puppy is well socialized, happy and healthy before allowing them to go to their forever homes. Each puppy receives a complete vet checkup and first set of vaccinations, as well as regular scheduled dewormings'. The f1 first generation cross is considered low to minmal shedding coat types. These dogs are extremely smart, loyal and good in nature, love people and other animals. Life expectancy is approximately 15 years. These dogs do require some daily exercise, but are a more laidback breed. They are a fun loving breed with a minimal shedding coat. The F1b Goldendoodle is usually nonshedding, good for people who have allergies. They absolutely "love their family", and as long as they receive some daily exercise, they will be happy to lay around by your side. Because the Poodle is one of the most intellegent dog breeds, and the Retriever is eager to please, the Goldendoodle breed is extremely intelligent and easy to train. Goldendoodles require frequent combing to prevent matting, and the occasional haircut will be necessary. This is another great dog for novice owners! Because Australian Shephards and Poodles are two of the most intelligent dog breeds, the Aussiedoodle is exceptionally smart, and therefore very easy to train, making excellent service and therapy dogs, as well as family pets. Aussiedoodles need to be combed frequently to prevent matting, and will require the occasional haircut. Australian shepherds are an active breed, and therefore the Aussiedoodle will require daily exercise. Aussiedoodles are excellent companion dogs that are very friendly. F1b Aussiedoodle is a cross of the f1 Aussiedoodle with a Purebred Poodle, producing a curlier coat and making this 2nd generation pup nonshedding, great for families who suffer from allergies. They do require regular groomings, approx per year. Learn more about our puppies When you bring home a Prairie Doodles puppy, your puppy has already received hours and hours of important socialization. We introduce each puppy to a wide variety of people, sounds, smells and scenarios, which helps to create balanced dogs who are inquisitive, adaptable and social. We begin introducing them to a crate at five weeks old, so by the time they join your home they are well on their way to being crate trained. In addition, all of our puppies are litter box trained to eliminate on wood pellets. We love raising balanced, happy dogs. They're hand-whelped and brought up inside our homes, alongside our children, because we believe dogs are an important part of the family. Meet us What people are saying about us "Gail at Prairie Doodles has been wonderful. She has always been available to answer questions, and now, even years after we brought our dogs home, I know that she really cares about the families who have her dogs. I recommend her to everyone who asks me where my dogs are from — and lots of people ask! He loves outdoor activities, and is often hiking or snowshoeing in the mountains on weekends. He has a gentle and loving temperament, and is so great around his little human brother, Aiden. We receive so many compliments and questions about Enzo. Thank you to Prairie Doodles for our beloved puppy! Gail is a wonderful match-maker; we couldn't have asked for a better puppy. He has the most easy-going, calm and goofy personality that charms everyone who meets him. Our friends and family fight over who gets to babysit him when we go away. We have been breeding dogs since , and been a dog family forever. Our puppies are born and raised in our home. Our adult dogs live in our home, or in a designated guardian home. We strive to raise healthy, happy pets, and are committed to the ongoing betterment of our breed. Tested Dogs This breeder has not shared any dogs yet. Disclaimer: Paw Print Pedigrees is an open website set up by Paw Print Genetics so that breeders and owners of dogs that have been tested in the Paw Print Genetics laboratory may voluntarily opt to share their canine genetic testing results. Paw Print Genetics and Paw Print Pedigrees do not make any claims to the accuracy of the information displayed for breeders or dogs, with the exception that all testing performed by Paw Print Genetics is accurate and reflects the results of the dog displayed. Those wishing not to publicly display their results should not share their results. This site is voluntary and any participant may decide to remove certain genetic test results or other information at any time. The test results and other information chosen to be displayed or removed are selected by the participant. Therefore, test results displayed may not reflect all testing performed in this dog. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. As one team, we work together to raise the most fantastic furry family members! I found myself married with three wonderful boys, but one of whom was allergic to dogs. So began the search for a family-friendly, allergy-friendly dog to complete our family. During all of my research, I kept coming back to the Australian Labradoodle. I absolutely fell in love with the breed! I wanted to live my life doing something that I could be truly passionate about, totally invested in and I decided what better way to fill my time and my heart, than by creating a breeding program and becoming active with the Australian Labradoodle Association of America ALAA. Now our doodle family is growing by leaps and bounds! Andrea and Christian make up the team up at Big Rock North. We found that we were serving so many families from Grand Prairie, Fort McMurray and each of Northern British Columbia and Saskatchewan, that having a few litters per year up near Edmonton would really benefit our Northern families. Big Rock North is very much an extension of Big Rock Labradoodles and Andrea and Christian do all the same things with their dogs and puppies that we do here, ensuring that regardless which location your puppy comes from, it will be a Wonderful Woofie!

We are a nonprofit c 3 rescue comprised solely of unpaid volunteers that share the common goal of saving neglected, abused, and abandoned German Shepherds and German Shepherd mixes from shelters, owners who can no longer keep them and partner rescues. Currently, we can only adopt to residents of North Carolina and South Carolina at this time. Our new store is now open Help our dogs and get your gifts. Featured Dog - Sweetheart Hello! My name is Sweetheart! I was pregnant mama of the Sweets Litter when found, but my babies have all gotten older and found homes of their own. When I first came to my foster mom I was nervous, but warmed up quickly. I will sit for my dinner and on occasion lay down, but I still pull on the leash and jump. I have previously lived with a four year old child and did really well with him. I do not like cats, though. The stray cats in my foster moms neighborhood tease me and I get upset. I can be a bit of a hoarder of the items I consider mine. A fenced in yard is probably best for me considering my energy level and how much I love to play! If you would like to be my human pillow and furever cuddle buddy, please reach out to your adoption coordinator. If you do not yet have an adoption coordinator, please complete an adoption application at www. For this reason, the specific dog you apply for may not be available by the time your application is processed. If that happens we will do our best to find another perfect match for your family. Wyoming is a shepherd mix — approximately 3 years old Wyoming has been in a wonderful GSROC foster home and has come a long way from when he was first rescued. He is housebroken and socialized. He loves to play with other dogs and ignores the cats in the home. Wyoming is a a shepherd mix, a great medium sized dog with a beautiful sable colored coat. He takes time to warm-up to anything new — new people and new situations. A gentle, quiet home will be ideal for this sweet boy. Wyoming loves playing with other dogs, and should be in a home either with his big brothers Nevada or Dakota or other playful dogs. He would love a home with multiple dog friends, and he gets along with all of his foster siblings, including a chihuahua. He plays well with other dogs, and is dog friendly. Wyoming is around cats at his foster home, but does not have close interaction with them. He would be appropriate in a home with cats, but not left alone with them to be safe as he does have a play drive. He would thrive in a home with a regular schedule, and would be fine with a family that is at work during the day once he was comfortable as long as he had a safe yard to play in and dog friends with him. Wyoming loves to go on long walks, and has really great leash-walking skills. He walks very easy on leash, unless he gets startled. Wyoming should not be let off leash as he is startled easily and will run in fear. He is learning how to have fun now that he knows he is safe, loved and cared for! Are you looking for a special, gentle dog that needs your love and patience? If you are looking for a dog that will blossom with patience and love, please complete the online application and an adoption counselor will contact you. House-trained, Story Introducing Thor, the big and friendly dog with a heart of love! This squishy pup is a great companion for anyone who loves big, playful dogs. Thor is a natural social butterfly and loves spending time with other dogs. Making him a great fit for households with multiple pets. He loves being in the house and quick to make himself at home. Thor is a dog who's always up for an adventure, and he particularly loves car rides. He jumps into the car with ease and settles in for the ride. This makes him the perfect companion for road trips and outings with the family. Thor is also a well-trained pup who knows how to sit and walks well on a leash. He's always eager to learn new things and is a quick study. With his love of learning and eagerness to please, Thor is a great candidate for obedience training or other dog sports, agility training anyone? He does like to explore, we recommend a high fence for this big boy. In short, Thor is a big and friendly dog who's always ready for fun and adventure. If you're looking for a loyal and playful companion who's great with other pets and loves car rides, then Thor is the perfect fit for you! You can text unlimited questions to Petcademy and they'll respond within 24 hours Monday-Friday. We only adopt in the USA. We are open to adopting in other states, except in Massachusetts. There are quarantine laws for MA and until these laws change, we are not able to adopt into MA. History Where are German Shepherd Dogs from? Perhaps never in the history of any breed has such concerted effort been put into improving a dog, mostly due to the formation in of the Verein fur Deutsche Scharferhunde SV, an organization in Germany devoted to overseeing the breeding of the German Shepherd. Breeders sought to develop not only a herding dog but also one that could excel at jobs requiring courage, athleticism, and intelligence. During World War I, they were the obvious choice for a war sentry. The Wolfdog was later dropped as it caused many people to fear the dogs. How big do German Shepherd Dogs get? The double-coat, with a thick undercoat that sheds twice annually, loses hair continuously but can be maintained with regular brushing one or two times weekly. What are the German Shepherd Dog colors? Black, tan, solid black and solid sable. How long do German Shepherd Dogs live? Lifespan: 10—12 years What are some German Shepherd Dogs facts and information? The German Shepherd held the number one spot in American popularity for many years. Although presently it has dropped from the top spot, the German Shepherd remains as one of the most versatile dogs ever created, serving as a police dog, war dog, guide dog, search-and-rescue dog, narcotics- or explosives-detecting dog, show dog, pet—and even shepherd. Related Content.

Pat yourself on the back, as you chose a tremendous breed! While adding a puppy to your family is an exciting time, raising a young puppy also requires pet owners to undertake a series of responsibilities. Puppies will require regular feeding , potty training, some toys to play with , love and attention, and, last but certainly not least, vaccinations. However, during their puppy period, they will require a series of vaccinations that are essential to their ability to fight off bacteria and diseases. Booster Vaccinations for Labrador Retrievers The first vaccinations that your labrador retriever will need are called boosters. Why call them boosters? Super creative, we agree! The first booster vaccination is recommended to be done between weeks old and is done to combat canine distemper. In many states, giving your pets a rabies shot is required by law. DHPP Vaccine and Beyond The third vaccination that your labrador retriever is scheduled to receive takes place between 16 and 20 weeks old. This very efficient shot contains four vaccines all in one that fight against distemper, adenovirus, parvovirus, and parainfluenza. Depending on the where you and your new puppy live, your labrador retriever might also need to be vaccinated against diseases such as lyme, leptospirosis, and coronavirus. The name kennel cough derives from the likelihood that dogs that are boarded contract it. The vaccine DHPP is used to prevent kennel cough. Hepatitis in dogs is a viral disease that attacks a their liver and eyes. It can lead to reproductive issues and causes significant discomfort. Though humans can also contract forms of hepatitis, this form can not be transmitted to humans. It can be transmitted to humans. DHPP is used to prevent it. Parvovirus is a serious and highly contagious disease that is especially dangerous for puppies. It is often fatal. The cost of vaccinations will vary slightly depending on the provider. We recommend that you call a few of your local veterinarians or clinics to ask for price quotes for of each vaccination you are preparing to give your puppy. Another option for pet owners is to consider acquiring pet insurance for their labrador retriever. Pet insurance provides pet owners with the freedom to make veterinary decisions without stressing the financial implications. Learn why most vets recommend pet insurance to pet owners. Looking to learn more about your labrador retriever? PetPlace is a wonderful resource for pet owners who want to discover more about their pet, and others. We have thousands of vet-approved articles that will quench your thirst for pet-related info. Specific to labrador retrievers, you can discover 5 attributes about labs that make them great or tips for house training your new puppy. Rabies Vaccine Rabies is a viral infection caused by a virus secreted in the saliva. According to the Humane Society , because the infection affects the nervous system, most rabid animals behave abnormally. When should puppies get rabies shots? Generally speaking, puppies should get their first rabies shot around 16 weeks of age and again between years old. Rabies Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks Booster: every 3 years Non-core Vaccines Non-core vaccines are important, but they are considered optional for dogs with less risk of infection. Non-core vaccines are recommended based on lifestyle and where you live or travel. Bordetella Bordetella bronchiseptica is a bacterium associated with respiratory disease in dogs and is known to cause the most severe form of kennel cough. Symptoms of an upper respiratory infection include nasal discharge, sneezing, coughing, congestion, etc. Some veterinarians may recommend Bordetella as a core vaccine for puppies based on their living environment, especially for social dogs who spend time in areas where they might come into contact with the bacteria like the dog park, boarding facilities, or doggy daycare. The vaccination can be given orally, intranasally, or by injection. Bordetella Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks Booster: every year Leptospira Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease caused by infection of the genus Leptospira, which are found in water and soil. The zoonotic disease spreads easily from animals to humans and is more common in warm climate areas with high annual rainfall; the Leptospira vaccine may be considered core in these areas. Signs of leptospirosis may include shivering, fever, muscle tenderness, increased thirst, dehydration, diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, jaundice, kidney failure, liver failure, etc. Leptospira Vaccine Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks 3rd shot: 1 year Booster: every year There is also a 5-way vaccine known as DHLPP, which is a combination vaccine of distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, and parvo. Lyme disease Lyme disease is caused by infection with the bacterium Borrelia burgdorferi which is transmitted through the bite of infected ticks. The most common symptoms in dogs include loss of appetite, lameness, joint swelling, swollen lymph nodes, and fatigue. More serious cases can also develop kidney complications. The Lyme disease vaccine is highly recommended for dogs that live in or frequently travel to areas known for Lyme disease, as well as those living in areas with a high risk of tick exposure. Lyme Vaccination Schedule for Puppies 1st shot: weeks 2nd shot: weeks later Booster: every year Canine Influenza Canine influenza, or dog flu, is a contagious viral infection affecting dogs. The virus is spread through aerosols or droplets containing respiratory secretions from barking, sneezing, and coughing. Dogs in close contact with infected dogs in places like daycare facilities, groomers, and kennels are at a higher risk of contracting the disease. CIV causes an acute respiratory infection in dogs, with the most common clinical sign being a cough that persists for up to 21 days. Vaccines are available for both H3N2 and H3N8 canine influenza. A bivalent vaccine offering protection against both strains is available as well. Dogs become infected when they swallow the parasite that may be present in water or other substances that have been soiled with feces leading to the disease Giardiasis. Giardia in dogs usually causes diarrhea, weight loss, or even death. Giardia is an available vaccine for puppies 8 weeks of age and older for 6 months of immunity against giardiasis. Most common symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite. Young dogs are at a high risk of contracting the disease, so the vaccine is highly recommended for puppies under eight weeks. Rattlesnake vaccine A rattlesnake vaccine can help dogs build antibodies to rattlesnake venom from bites that are often deadly and severely painful to dogs. The antibodies work to neutralize the venom, thereby significantly extending the window of time you have to take your dog to the emergency room , increasing their odds of survival. Protect yourself from heartbreak without breaking the bank. Compare quotes to find the best deal for your budget. After that, puppies should receive a series of vaccines every two to four weeks until actual protein can be achieved between the ages of 6 and 20 weeks old. Your vet will determine a safe vaccine schedule for your puppy based on their weight, health, age, etc. Some pet parents prefer getting multiple puppy shots in one vet visit to minimize stress on their pet, whereas others prefer to spread the shots out to reduce possible side effects and soreness — talk to your vet to create a safe vaccine schedule that works for you and your puppy. Rabies depends on local laws but is usually given by the time your dog reaches 3 to 6 months old. When should puppies have all their shots by? Most vets prefer giving the final DHPP shot at 16 weeks or later; however, new recommendations suggest up to 20 weeks out. When do puppies need booster shots? Abstaining from booster shots can put your puppy at risk. However, not all vaccines require yearly boosters. DHPP vaccine booster: every two weeks for a total of three sets, then every three years Lepto, Canine influenza, and Lyme disease vaccine booster: one month after the initial series, then annually Bordetella booster: 1 year or every 6 months where there is a concern Rabies booster: every 1 to 3 years after the initial round, depending on state laws Puppy Vaccine Schedule There are several types of puppy shots your pet might get in their first year. In addition to a deworming schedule, your vet will suggest a vaccination schedule for puppies based on their age, environment, and medical history. Most vets recommend this general timeline for first-year puppy shots: weeks of age Between 6- and 8-weeks-old, puppies get their first shot of the DHPP distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, parvovirus vaccine. They might also receive their first round of vaccinations for Bordetella and Lyme disease. Leptospira Lepto is a common puppy vaccination administered around this time frame. They'll also get their first rabies vaccine depending on state-mandated vaccine schedules for puppies, as well as a second shot of the Lepto vaccine if applicable. Boosters Every Years Puppies will need a booster shot for all vaccines at age 1. Dogs need booster vaccinations for Bordetella, Lepto, Lyme, and Giardia annually receiving their first immunization as an adult. The vaccination schedule for DHPP and rabies is every 3 years, but check your local laws and defer to your veterinarian's advice to ensure your pet stays free of disease. How much are puppy shots? Non-essential vaccines your vet may recommend will also increase the price. Note that puppy shots cost more or less depending on several different factors, including your location. For instance, vets in crowded urban areas tend to charge more than vets in smaller towns and rural areas. Also keep in mind that you'll need to budget for booster shots in one- or three-year intervals to ensure your pet stays protected from disease. Fortunately, vaccines for dogs are less expensive than first-year puppy shots because boosters are administered in one dose every few years, as opposed to multiple doses every few weeks. All puppies need to get the core vaccines, i. Your veterinarian will consider the risk factors and advise you on which vaccines are best for your puppy during the first vet visit. No, but both vaccines for puppies are often combined in one shot. Distemper and parvovirus are two different illnesses that are potentially fatal if not treated quickly. What is the 5-in-1 shot for puppies? Do puppies need 3 or 4 sets of shots? It depends on their age; vets may recommend a shorter puppy vaccination schedule for dogs over 16 weeks old and not yet fully vaccinated. How many shots do puppies need before going outside? A titer test is a blood test showing whether your puppy has antibodies for a particular illness. The test can be used to determine the effectiveness of a vaccine and help determine if or which booster vaccines your dog needs. Most doggy daycares and boarding facilities do not accept a titer test in lieu of a puppy vaccination record. When should puppies get dewormed? Because worms are very common in puppies, veterinarians recommend deworming them for the first time when they're two to three weeks old. Is there a heartworm vaccine for puppies? Preventatives can either be administered as monthly medication or every six months by injection. How can you save money on puppy shots? One way to save money on puppy vaccines is by visiting a low-cost vaccination clinic. These clinics typically offer packages that combine a bundle of vaccinations into a lower price point, but also offer individual options if your dog is due for a specific vaccine. Another way to save money on puppy shots is by purchasing a pet wellness plan through a pet insurance provider. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. What Vaccines Do Puppies Need? Core Versus Non-Core Vaccines CORE vaccines: Some infectious diseases of dogs are so common, debilitating, easily spread, or can be spread to people zoonotic that vaccination against them is deemed of critical importance. The first three are often administered as the combination DA2P shot. NON-CORE vaccines: On the other hand, there are diseases and conditions for which there are vaccines, but either because of their limited geographic distribution meaning they don't affect all parts of the country equally , lesser severity, specific lifestyle risk factors, or other reasons, they are not automatically recommended for every dog. The Benefits of Vaccines The benefits of vaccines far outweigh any risks. Vaccines are very effective and safe. Their use has notably decreased the morbidity and mortality associated with many infectious diseases. Per a study, there were only .Adverse events were more typical among smaller dogs and those receiving multiple vaccinations at one visit. Vaccine Safety Before I jump into which vaccines your puppy may need, it's critical to know that where they get their vaccines is equally as important. This is because individuals and organizations that aren't regulated, like veterinarians are, buy vaccines from places that may not know how to handle them properly. They may allow the vaccines to get warm, and this inactivates them. Or people transport them and don't keep them temperature-controlled or leave them in a vehicle for too long. In both these cases, the vaccines are essentially useless. Where you get your vaccines matters, and your veterinarian is trained and regulated to administer them properly. Puppy Vaccines By Age 6—8 weeks of age In some cases, your puppy will already have received some of these vaccines before you pick them up. Check with the people or organization you're getting your puppy from to confirm which vaccines your pup received and when. See the safety note above. This information is important for your vet to have to know best how to structure your pup's initial vaccination series, as all these puppy vaccines need to be given in a series of initial shots followed by booster shots. This vaccine may be administered as a DA2PP, which is the same thing but also includes protection against Parainfluenza an important but non-core vaccine to help protect against a highly contagious respiratory virus. If your puppy is only receiving its first vaccine or is a toy breed, your veterinarian may administer the Bordetella at the next appointment. The Bordetella vaccine comes in three different types, intra-nasal, oral, or injectable. Depending on which type of vaccine your veterinarian uses will determine if it needs to be boosted in 2 to 4 weeks. This vaccine is often recommended for dogs who will go to dog daycare, puppy classes, dog parks, dog shows, be boarded, etc. Dog Flu There are two different canine flu vaccines available, each protecting against a different strain of dog flu. If this is the first dose of this vaccine your pup is receiving, they will need another vaccination in 2—4 weeks, depending on which vaccine they are given, for the best protection. Again, this non-core vaccine is suitable for dogs who will go to puppy classes, grooming, dog parks, dog shows, travel, be boarded, etc. However, the facility needs to be clean, and all pups in attendance need to have also received their first veterinary-administered vaccines and deworming. Check with your vet and your puppy training facility of choice on timing, and see this position statement on puppy socialization timing from the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior. Meet some not all other dogs: A puppy can usually also start to meet other KNOWN and healthy puppies and adult dogs at this point in locations that are safe and clean. Avoid: Sidewalks, parks, pet stores, doggie daycare, groomers, and other areas or settings frequented by other unknown dogs. Socialization of puppies is critically important for their emotional and behavioral development, and it isn't just about them being "social" with other dogs or even people. There are many "non-social" things that young puppies need to be properly exposed to early on. Check out our Pupstanding App with its fun, easy-to-use checklist to help socialize your pup. Either way, it's an important visit. This vaccine may be administered as a DA2PP, which is the same thing, but also includes protection against Parainfluenza an important but non-core vaccine. Kennel Cough The initial vaccine can be given at this age if necessary or desired, depending on the type of vaccine used intra-nasal, oral, or injectable. Depending on which type of vaccine your veterinarian uses will determine if it needs to be boostered in 2 to 4 weeks. If this is the first dose of this vaccine your pup is receiving, they will need another vaccination in 2—4 weeks, depending on which vaccine they are receiving, for the best protection. Avoid: Sidewalks, parks, pet stores, daycare, and other areas or settings used by other unknown dogs should be avoided. Shopping malls and home improvement stores can be great places to socialize your puppy without excessive risk of contagious dog diseases. However, keeping your pet in a stroller or backpack lessens your pup's chances of being exposed to diseases. Your goal is to remove any trace of fecal matter before your pup licks their paws or contaminates your care or home. Their booster shots at this visit are important to build their immunity and help protect them from these diseases. This vaccine may be administered as a DA2PP, which is the same thing but also includes protection against Parainfluenza an important non-core vaccine. State and local regulations determine the age at which all dogs must be vaccinated for rabies. See below for more detail on what this vaccine covers against and why you or your vet might want to consider it. Note: Because Lepto can be devastating to both your dog and you it is zoonotic , and also because all dogs can be at risk including even indoor-only dogs and those that never leave their backyard , your veterinarian may highly recommend and consider this vaccine "core," and may recommend starting the initial series in the 9—12 week age range rather than 12— 16 weeks old. See below for more detail on what the Lepto vaccine covers against and why you or your vet might want to consider it. Where your puppy can usually go and what they can usually do after this 12—16 week vaccine visit: Play with unknown dogs: Following this visit, a puppy can usually begin to expand their circle of friends to include unknown dogs i. Still avoid: Daycare centers, fields, and parks including dedicated dog parks should still be avoided. Where your puppy can usually go and what they can usually do after this 15—17 week vaccine visit: Freedom! One week after this final puppy vaccine visit, most pups have enough vaccine protection against the common vaccinable conditions to be able to get a full groom and go to the dog park, doggie daycare, pet stores, and other places where large groups of unknown dogs frequent and congregate. Of course, it's still a good idea to keep an eye out and avoid any obviously sick dogs. Booster vaccinations will be needed throughout their life. The frequency and types of vaccine boosters your dog will need throughout their life are influenced by their lifestyle, where you live and travel to with them, how common certain diseases are in your area and at different times of the year, and a host of other factors. For some dogs and some conditions, titers blood tests measuring the level of antibodies in your dog's system may help to determine vaccination intervals and may be preferable. This is a discussion to have with your vet. Titer Testing for Dogs A titer is a test that is done using a sample of your dog's blood to measure the level of antibodies to a specific disease. Antibodies are proteins made by the body as a response to antigens. Antigens are foreign substances or stimuli to the body, such as viruses, bacteria, or vaccinations, that cause the body to mount an immune response. Vaccine titers are used as a screening tool to determine whether or not to revaccinate for a particular disease. If a vaccine titer comes back high, this indicates that your dog, if exposed to that disease, should be able to fight it off. The problem with titers Vaccines are given either yearly or every 3 years. With titers, there is no way to predict what the levels will be in three to six months, even if they tested high at the time of the titer testing. Many factors can affect the immune system and its level of resistance. Factors such as disease, stress, or medications can impact it, and therefore there is no consistency over time regarding what the antibody levels could be. This could put your dog at risk until you go in for another titer test. Rabies is a vaccine required by law in all states. There are only certain states that allow titers for medical exceptions. Every puppy is different. Similarly, some puppies are born with deficiencies in their immune system, or their immune system may develop more slowly because of dietary or other factors. Maternal immunity is protective but can interfere with a puppy's vaccinations. Over the first few weeks of life, maternal immunity begins to decline, and by about 12 weeks it is generally gone. However, some puppies are provided protection by maternal immunity as old as 20 weeks. The vaccines are given as a series to give the maternal immunity time to wane while their own immune system is fully developing in response to and in conjunction with their shots. Missing a Vaccine or Booster Shot Dog owners should be aware that missing or delaying a vaccine in a series for more than 4 weeks puts a puppy at risk of disease. During the initial series of a vaccine, if you delay a booster more than six weeks or miss one, an additional booster vaccine will be needed 3 weeks after resuming the series. For example, if you miss the third vaccine in the DA2P series, a vaccine will be given and then boosted again in 3 weeks. Note: You may need to restart a series two vaccine doses 3 to 4 weeks apart for yearly vaccines that are not boosted within 1 year and 6 weeks from the last vaccine given. Vaccine-Preventable Diseases in Dogs The core vs. Your veterinarian is your best resource for helping to determine which vaccines your new pup would benefit from and when. They are the only ones who have the medical training and understanding, as well as the first-hand knowledge of your dog and your environment necessary to best guide you. Note that some of the vaccinable conditions listed below can be zoonotic, meaning that they can also infect and cause disease in people. The bacteria is transmitted through the air or direct contact, especially when an infected dog coughs or sneezes. It can also be spread by contaminated clothing, bowls, beds, and other communal surfaces such as cages or kennels. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. Vaccinations can protect your dog against a variety of life-threatening illnesses. Not to mention, some vaccinations are required by law. Why Do Puppies Need Vaccinations? Puppies need vaccinations to help prevent the catching of various dangerous diseases. If your dog ever comes in contact with a disease they have been vaccinated against, his immune system will know how to destroy it. There are vaccines available to protect your puppy against more than 11 different diseases. However, depending on your circumstances and where you live, your puppy might not need them all. Your vet will be able to recommend those they think your really needs, with others being up to your choice. There are four core vaccines for diseases all puppies should be vaccinated against and seven non-core vaccines that the American Animal Hospital Association and the American Veterinary Medicine Association recommend. The non-core vaccines may or may not be recommended by your vet, depending on different variables, mostly the prevalence or absence of a disease in your area. The Core Vaccinations Rabies. This is a potentially fatal and highly contagious disease. Depending on which state or country you live in, your dog will need to have a booster once every one to three years. This common virus is hard to treat and has an 80 percent fatality rate, which is why inoculating against it is so important. Canine viral hepatitis is also known as adenovirus. Canine distemper. Before vaccination, this was a big killer of dogs. Vaccinating against this disease will protect your puppy if he comes in contact with the virus while out and about. The Non-Core Vaccinations Lyme disease. The vast majority of cases have occurred in the eastern American coastal states between Massachusetts and Virginia. Parainfluenza and Bordetella. The parainfluenza virus and the bordetella bacterium are both major causes of kennel cough. Inoculation is generally only necessary if your puppy is going to be exposed to many other dogs. For instance, at boarding kennels, doggy daycare or dog shows. This infectious disease is a common cause of stomach upset. This bacteria can infect dogs and their human companions. In serious cases it can cause organ failure and death in dogs. In certain high-risk parts of the country, your dog might need a booster every six months. Giardia are parasites that commonly live in the digestive tracts of dogs. Many dogs have them, but they rarely cause problems. How Are Vaccines Given? Most vaccines are given as injections. These are given either under the skin or into the muscle. Most combination injections protect against distemper, leptospirosis, hepatitis, parainfluenza, coronavirus and parvovirus. This allows their body time to develop a good immune response. Recommended and Most Common Schedule of Vaccinations: 6 to 7 weeks old: This is when your puppy should get his first combination injection. He needs his second combination vaccine. Make sure you have a record of his first injection to show your new vet. If necessary, he will also have a Lyme disease vaccine. At this point, your vet will advise you when your puppy can go out for his first walk. Are There Any Risks Involved? Unfortunately, there are potential risks to having your puppy vaccinated. That said, the risks are far outweighed by the benefits. However, you should monitor your dog closely after a vaccination and contact your vet right away if you notice any of the following symptoms: Hives. It seems like every time you turn around, there's another shot your pup needs. And keeping track of all the different types of vaccinations can be a real challenge. But don't worry, we're here to help. In this article, we provide a comprehensive A-to-Z guide for dog vaccination in India - covering everything you need to know about what shots are available, when they should be administered, and more! Why vaccinate your dog? There are a number of important reasons to vaccinate your dog. Vaccinations help protect your dog from a variety of serious and potentially deadly diseases. They also help reduce the spread of disease among dogs and from dogs to humans. Vaccinating your dog is one of the best things you can do to keep them healthy and happy and is an important part of responsible pet parenting. So here's a quick rundown of the most common vaccinations dogs need. All dogs should be vaccinated against rabies, and booster shots should be given every one to three years depending on state law. Parvovirus: Parvovirus is a deadly disease that can affect dogs of all ages, but puppies are especially vulnerable. The virus attacks the gastrointestinal system, causing severe vomiting and diarrhoea. Parvovirus can also cause heart problems and death. All dogs should be vaccinated against parvovirus, with booster shots given every one to two years. Distemper: Distemper is a highly contagious disease that affects the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and nervous systems of dogs. It can cause severe coughing, vomiting, diarrhoea, seizures, and death. Puppies are especially vulnerable to the disease. All dogs should be vaccinated against distemper, with booster shots given every one to two years. Leptospirosis: Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that affects the kidneys and liver of dogs. It can be transmitted through contact with contaminated water or soil. The disease can cause severe kidney damage and death. All dogs should be vaccinated against leptospirosis, with booster shots given every one to two years. Infectious Canine Hepatitis: Hepatitis is a viral disease that affects the liver of dogs. The symptoms can range from loss of appetite and thirst, fever and bleeding. It is usually spread through contact with contaminated or infected urine, saliva or faeces. Non-core Vaccines for Dogs: There are a few vaccines that are considered "non-core" for dogs, which means that they are not necessarily required for all dogs. However, your veterinarian may recommend them based on your dog's lifestyle and risk factors. Bordetella kennel cough is a bacteria that can cause respiratory infections in dogs. It is often spread through close contact with other dogs, so if your dog socialises with other dogs regularly, your veterinarian may recommend this vaccine. Canine ParaInfluenza is a virus that can cause respiratory illness in dogs. It is most commonly spread through close contact with other infected dogs. You might want to get this vaccine once you discuss it with your veterinarian. Lyme Vaccine is used to help prevent Lyme Disease, which is caused by a bacteria transmitted by ticks. If your dog spends time in areas where ticks are common such as woods or tall grass , your veterinarian may recommend this vaccine. Coronavirus: The canine coronavirus CCoV is a virus that can cause intestinal infections and abdominal discomfort in dogs. It is most commonly spread through close contact with other infected dogs, therefore, if your dog socialises with other dogs regularly, you can consider administering this vaccine once you discuss it with your veterinarian. They will need a booster shot every weeks of core vaccines until they are 16 weeks old. After that, they will need an annual booster shot.