pit and boxer mix puppy

Look and feel good, inside out WALK Essentials for their favourite part of the day The Boxer dog originated in Germany in the 19th century as a hunting mastiff dog and guard dog. The Boxer dog breed has a short coat in colours like fawn and brindle and sometimes, white markings. They are large, muscular, athletic and square-headed with a short nose. Boxers are usually friendly, playful and childlike. They also have one of the longest puppyhood stages of all dog breeds they fully mature at 3 years of age. They are legendary for their drools, patience and outgoing personality. They may be prone to snoring as they are a brachycephalic dog breed with short snouts. Whether you are a new pet parent or planning to adopt a Boxer dog, here are the best dog products to give them a healthy and happy lifestyle. Boxer pups can be fed appropriate food from Farmina, Taste of the Wild or Acana. Pups who are younger than 3. Looking for the best dog food for Boxers? Try Farmina. Introduce your Boxer to new food gradually over a week and not all at once. This will affect everything from how comfortable he is eating, to bacteria in the bowl and also has a direct impact on the risk of developing bloat an issue with this breed. Size, height, material and overall design all matter. Read more about the best food and water bowls for Boxers Bed or Mat Boxers love to take over the sofa, make claim to their human's favorite chair or stretch out on the floor. We recommend a 6 food leash or retractable for house training Boxer puppies. You'll want to keep him close to lead him to and keep him in the exact designated area and to have him close to give immediate praise and reward. A short leash is also best when training your Boxer to heel, since his proper positioning is to your left and right by your side. A longer leash, or one that can extend out, is great for allowing your Boxer to run and have some freedom, when deemed safe. In regard to a collar or harness, this breed typically has strong enough neck and shoulder muscles to do okay with a collar. However, if your Boxer tends to launch himself forward or off to the side quite often when on leash, play it safe and get him a harness. This will remove the issue of pressure being applied straight to the neck and instead it will be displaced on a Boxer's stronger shoulders, chest and back. An ID tag is a must. Though your Boxer can tend to stay close and you're on-point in regard to not letting him off leash, it's just not worth the risk. Choose a stainless steel tag that is weather resistant and will be durable enough that the engraving does not wear down. It's suggested to put more than one type of contact info for someone to return your Boxer cell, address, email. The Right Toys It's best to think of toys as tool. Which ones are going to perform to meet the needs of your Boxer puppy or dog? All toys should serve a specific function. If not, you mind as well toss them or your Boxer may already have figuratively done that by ignoring them. And most toys cannot meet all of a dog's needs at one time though some can have a duel purpose. The main reasons for certain toys include: Teething, chewing urges, entertainment to stay busy especially when home alone , and owner interaction. Read more about choosing the best toys for a Boxer Brushes Boxers have short, dense coats that will shed mostly into themselves, rather than leave a mess on the floor. This is great for your house, but not so much in terms of health for the coat itself. Though Boxers can enter shedding seasons depending on where you live , most still or entirely shed minor to moderate amounts throughout the year. You will want to routinely brush the coat from head to tail at least once per week. During times of heavier shed, use a tool specifically to pull out dead hairs. Brushing has several benefits: It pulls out hairs that have shed but fallen back. If these are left, they can block natural air flow. It distributes natural body oils It removes fine dirt and debris Is healthy for the hair follicles, leading to better re-growth fur is in a constant renewal cycle The best brushes for Boxer dogs: For the type of coat that a Boxer has, the best brush will be a quality bristle brush. Be sure that it has a sturdy handle, is sized well for your hand, and has proper tension it won't do much good if it simply glides over the surface. For times of shedding, when you need to pull out any dead hairs, use a grooming tool that reaches deep down, latches onto hairs and brings them up and out. Dental Care Items Of all the supplies you might possibly get for your Boxer puppy or dog, do not overlook dental care items. What can happen: Plaque builds up on a dog's teeth every second of the day and chewing on treats and toys even great dental treats just doesn't get it all off. Within 3 days, plaque starts to harden into tartar. It encases the teeth and travels under the gum line. It eats away at the enamel of the teeth, causing decay and rot. Infection can travel up into the sinuses or even throughout the body, causing sepsis. Decay causes teeth to loosen and eventually fall out. And of course, this all happens comes at the cost of quite a bit of pain for a dog. The American Veterinary Dental College reports that periodontal disease is the most common preventable clinical condition in both cats and dogs. Without proper care, most dogs have some level of periodontal disease by the age of 3 years old; at this stage, there are not enough signs of unknowing owners to take steps other than bad breath yet can lead to damage to internal organs. What to do: Take measure to ensure excellent oral hygiene with your Boxer dog. Brush your Boxer's teeth with a quality toothbrush. Use an appropriately sized, 3 sided brush. Use an effective toothpaste human paste is toxic, look for a canine product that tastes good and works well to remove plaque. Don't be surprised when a good paste does not foam; they are not meant to since dogs are supposed to swallow the product. Offer one effective dental treat each day. We highly recommend Greenies; these are simply the best and are an accepted product of the Veterinary Oral Health Council. Think about using a water supplement that works to kill bacteria and help prevent plaque. Be sure that it does not contain a drying agent and tasteless ones work best. Bathing, Coat Supplies Everything that you use on the coat shampoo, conditioner, spray will either be beneficial to a Boxer or detrimental. You will want to have a really good shampoo that not only cleans great, but does so with the right pH balance to avoid over-drying and without harsh chemicals. The conditioner that you use needs to coat hairs without being so oily that residue remains which can clog skin pores. The coat should be protected with a spritz. A leave-in spray offers some great benefits: It smells great, protects the coat from static, contact friction and outdoor elements particularly the sun. Though, even with dogs that are outside much of the day and are super active, you can't depend on this to keep the nails short enough. If you want to do this at home, we recommend an electronic filer. It's much easier than clipping. Nose - A dog's nose is naturally pretty vulnerable to all of the elements it encounters. From arid air to cold winds to sun exposure. A big mistake is to only put something on the nose once it starts to look really dry or start peeling, because while a good product can indeed heal a chapped or cracked nose, it's better to be ahead of the game and prevent it in the first place. Every month or so, apply a quality nose butter and then keep it on hand for when you need to apply it more often, which is typically in the dead of winter and in during long, hot summers. Paws - You don't want to baby the paws, because they toughen up as a puppy and then dog walks on a variety of surfaces. However, if they become damaged this puts you back several steps and can even morph into serious issues. This is why a quality paw wax should be part of the supplies you have for your Boxer, it's a vital part of year-round paw care. Look for a good wax that allows the paws to breath and is absorbed quickly in just a couple of minutes. Car Restraint or Seat If you'd buckle up your child, there should be no hesitation to buckle up your Boxer. To not do this is to risk his safety. There are over 16, car accidents per day in the U. No matter how good of a driver you are, you just can't guarantee that someone won't crash into you or that road or weather conditions won't cause something to happen. So, of all the possible supplies that you might get for your Boxer, this one can literally save lives. There are some great options that are easy to use, can actually help with motion sickness and are comfortable for a Boxer puppy or larger, older adult dog. Read more about finding the best car seat or belt for a Boxer dog. Basic First Aid Supplies There are a few basic essentials that every owner should have on hand in the case of injury or emergency. If you've ever looked into this, you may have found some pretty extensive lists; and that's a shame because you don't need half of those things. Chances are, you'll never find yourself searching through your supplies as you try to set broken bones; things like this should be saved for the animal hospital. However, dogs do commonly swallow things that they should not according to the Pet Poison Hotline of the ten top breeds that they received calls about, the Boxer places at 8. You should always be prepared for this. Also, there can be insect bites, something in the eye and small scraps and cuts. Read more about which first aid items you should have for a Boxer dog Outer Gear - Optional, Based on Needs Many Boxers do just fine without any sort of additional layers via jackets or coats. However, some don't. Puppies, senior dogs, or those that are ill or recovering may have an intolerance to the cold. Additionally, just about any otherwise healthy dog can need some help during super harsh weather. If your Boxer is having a hard time in the winter and this is interfering with meeting exercise requirements or is getting in the way of house training, you may want to check into this. If so, read more about clothing for Boxer dogs. Supplements - Optional, Based on Needs If you are feeding your Boxer a high quality food, vitamins and minerals are already added to the mix. However, if you are offering a mainly home cooked diet which is great , you have to be the one to add in a complete vitamin and mineral supplement. Or use express checkout methods: Checkout Order now, fast shipping and specialized vet support About this item Details Start your boxer puppy's life off right with Royal Canin Boxer Puppy, the dry food specially formulated to support their unique needs. Boxer puppies have square, muscular bodies built for athleticism and agility. However, they need proper nutrition to maintain their fitness. As such, this kibble has an adapted protein content to support musculature. It also contains L-carnitine to help their metabolism keep up with their activity. Puppies are still developing their immune system, meaning an "immunity gap" opens them up to dangerous ailments. So, Royal Canin Boxer Puppy includes an exclusive antioxidant complex with vitamin E to boost your pet's immunity. Likewise, Boxer puppies have a sensitive digestive system, which makes feeding them the right food essential. Hence, this dry food contains prebiotics and highly-digestible proteins to support a healthy gut microbiome and promote stool quality. Finally, this kibble's shape, size, and texture are tailored to the Boxer puppy's square muzzle and underbite. Because of this, your pup has an easy time picking up food and chewing it. Royal Canin Boxer Puppy at a glance: Adapted protein content supports Boxer puppies' muscular bodies and L-carnitine helps their metabolism keep up with their activity. Exclusive antioxidant complex with vitamin E boosts your pet's immunity. Prebiotics and highly digestible proteins promote healthy gut microbiome and stool quality for sensitive digestive systems. Kibble's shape, size, and texture are tailored to the Boxer puppy's square muzzle and underbite for easy pick-up and chewing. Specially formulated dry food to support Boxer puppies' unique needs for a healthy and active start to life. Analytical constituents: Protein: .Dimensions This product is a 12 kg bag. So, adjust your feeding accordingly and consult a trusted veterinarian for further guidance. How should I store this dry food? Store Royal Canin Boxer Puppy in a cool, dry place.

Choose small or large breed depending on the full grown size your puppy will be. You can buy this online at Chewy. You can also find it at Tractor Supply Stores. Feed your puppy by hand fun task for kids! Grain free has been linked to heart problems in multiple clinical studies. An Adjustable Crate: Extra large, large, medium or small depending on the full grown size your puppy will grow to. When the divider is incerted correctly, your pup should be able to stand up, turn around and lay down comfortably. If your puppy is attending Foundations training, for the smoothest transition, purchase a hard shell travel crate fitted snugly to your puppy based on measurements. This is the type of crate they will have become accustomed to at Foundations Training. The collar will be for the puppy ID information. Front lead harnesses are best for teaching your puppy not to pull and for having kids walk the dog but only after they have learned how to walk on a leash with either a collar or back lead harness. Schedule a Vet Visit for their 10 week Distemper Shot: This should be given when the puppy is 10 weeks old along with the kennel cough vaccination. At 14 weeks old, the final distemper shot and at 16 weeks old, the rabies vaccination can be given. We will go over this in detail on gotcha day as well. A thin blanket or towel works well. Recently I discovered amazon sells machine washable area rugs in all sizes! This is a critical time for socialization as the window for introducing new people, places, things and animals closes at 16 weeks. If you have kids, this makes for a fun scavenger hunt! Any neighborhood dogs? Schedule play dates! Supervise closely if there is a big difference in size and do make sure the other dogs are up to date on vaccinations. Some trainers are great patient, understands puppy development, love their job vs. Be selective! And, be present unless you have vetted your trainer very well and they have excellent, recent reviews. Private sessions for basic obedience if you prefer should only be in addition to group puppy training, not instead of. Half days are also great! Dog Walkers: There are two kids of dog walker; A. I recommend having the puppy sleep in your room for at least weeks until they have adjusted to life as an independent puppy, without their siblings around them. This visit should be short and full of praise and rewards for being good. Blow dry C. Ears cleaned E. Nails trimmed. Establish with the groomer before you leave your puppy and agree that your puppy is not matted. Groomers shave doodles down for 4 reasons: 1. The boss requires X number of dogs to be groomed per day 4. Your pup is actually matted. If you love certain features ie; brown eyebrows or long eye lashes tell them to keep them! If your puppy is squealing when you brush them, double check that you bought the correct type of brush slicker. Rounded end scissors for trimming around the eyes in between grooming appointments, Nail Trimmers and Kwik Stop: Incase you cut the nail too short by accident and it bleeds. The quick will grow into their nails as their nails get longer. Flea and Tick Preventative: Ticks those nasty little buggers are active anytime the ground thaws, even if there is a one day thaw in February. They work for months! The only exception to this recommendation is if you have children who have hands in their mouth a lot. Tip: leave the collar long enough to allow 7 months of growth! This is a prescription only and you can get it through your vet. Heartguard is not optional! The treatment for heart worms is a series of injections directly into the spine- very painful. Never mind the consequences of having heart worms…which can include death. Foundations Training. .Please see the video below and click this here for more information. This one is magical. .A harness is also an excellent tool for training and taking dogs for exercises, where you are not sure if they will run off or not. Buying the best one comes with considering the best factors to help you out. Below are the factors to consider. Types There are different types of harnesses in the market that can make it confusing when selecting the best for you. Available types you can choose from are: Rolled or flat collar harnesses, Pinch harnesses and choke chains and many more. Material Buying the right harness means selecting the best materials that will fit your dog. Harnesses that are made of breathable materials are the best for young dogs as well as those suffering from lung problems. Smelling harnesses are also not the right choice for dogs that are allergic to certain odors. Hypoallergenic harnesses are also the right choice for preventing skin irritations and allergic attacks. Secure harnesses that are made from sturdy materials are an excellent choice for stubborn dogs. Small dogs require less strong harnesses because they are easy to handle. Leash compatibility The best harness should be easy to use with a leash. A no-pull harness will be an excellent choice for tight requirements, especially for big dogs. For dogs that are big and like to pull off your hands when walking, you may want to stick to using a leash or a collar. Right measurements When using back and side-clip harnesses, their thickness becomes factors to consider. You should access the width of the harness before you buy it. Padding Dogs with short hair and skin irritations need harnesses with paddings. Recommended Reading:. Check out our product picks with the links to where to get them below. Pick 2: rabbitgoo Dog Harness, No-Pull Pet Harness — This adjustable harness has two leash attachment rings — front and back — to suit your needs. While you should definitely pick up a collar for your new canine friend this is where their identity tags go , experts often recommend using a harness to leash train a new puppy. This is because it gives you more control over stronger dogs, helping you hold them back when necessary without putting concentrated pressure on their neck area. Most puppies, when heading out on walks, tend to pull. Even older dogs can get a little excited and want to hurry you along a bit. This is a behavior you will want to train your pup out of, especially if you have a larger Bernedoodle. One of these Doods could easily pull you off your feet, given half a chance! Many harnesses help correct pulling on the leash without causing unnecessary pain. Beyond that, harnesses also tend to be far more secure than collars. If they do manage to get away from the leash somehow but are still wearing the harness which is the most likely scenario , many harnesses also have safety features such as reflective strips that help them to be better seen by traffic. Different Types Of Dog Harnesses If you decide on a harness, there are a few different designs to choose from, each with its own benefits. Your first decision will be between a step-in harness and an over-the-head one. As the names suggest, with the former, you lay the harness on the ground and encourage your pet to step into the leg holes, whereas with the latter, you slip the harness over their head and fasten the straps around their legs. However, if you have a puppy, this is likely something you can get them used to. Your next choice will be between a front and back clip harness. This refers to where the attachment for the leash is placed. Many owners prefer the simplicity of the back clip, which is easier to access, puts less pressure on the chest when their pup pulls, and means the leash is less likely to get tangled up in their legs. However, a front attachment allows for better pull control and easier directional steering. After all, you want the harness you pick to fit well, feel comfortable on, and, above all, to last. You want one that will not restrict their movements or allow them to escape. Pay special attention to measuring guides, and also to reviews to see if the harnesses tend to run small or large. Keep in mind that your puppy will outgrow their harness once they start to reach adulthood. The best harness for Bernedoodles will be sturdy, durable, water and dirt repellant, and breathable. Luckily, there are plenty of options including the three we have reviewed below that make use some of the best outdoor fabrics around. Pay close attention also to how clips, buckles, and fasteners are attached to the body of the harness; there are generally the weak spots. Padding Padding is not an essential component of a harness. One that fits well will not rub, tug or cause any other unpleasantness. The only thing it might do is heat your pup more than you would like — especially if they have a lot of hair. That being said, if you have a constant puller, a pup with a short hair coat, or one with particularly sensitive skin, then it can certainly help. Padding creates fewer friction points and can help prevent bruising for dogs still learning to walk nicely to heal. The harness features a top handle that gives you great control when you need to move your pup out of the way, a reflective chest strap that helps your dog to be easily seen, and even removable glow-in-the-dark labels that can be removed or fitted, making the harness excellent for nighttime walks too. For serious pullers, you can purchase an attachment that converts the harness into a front clip one.

Females: pounds. Height Males: inches. Females: inches. These dogs were renowned for their size, power, strength, and tenacity, and their modern-day descendants Mastiffs and Bulldogs continue in that tradition. Eventually, the reputation of the Molossian dogs preceded the breed. Hopner, Elard Konig, and Friedrich Robert—decided to develop these dogs into their own separate breed. In , the first Boxer exhibition dog show was held in Munich, and the following year, the first Boxer breed club was established: the Deutscher Boxer Club, which later established the original breed standard. Since the end of World War II, the Boxer has been recognized and celebrated as a popular, capable, and loyal companion and working dog. He has served in many capacities, from war dogs to farm dogs. Today, he can often be seen strutting around the show ring or working as a therapy dog, but many simply know the Boxer as a faithful and beloved family companion. Breed Characteristics Head: Somewhat brachycephalic skull-type, having a fairly short muzzle and slight upturn to the lower jaw. However, it should never appear as an extremely brachycephalic skull, as seen in dogs that are completely lacking the length of the muzzle or with an extremely upturned lower jaw. The head is moderate in size and in proportion to the rest of the body. When viewed from the front or profile, the skull is slightly arched and never prominently rounded or flat, with a median furrow that starts at the stop and progresses toward the back of the skull. The occiput is visible but not distinct or pronounced. The head may be chiseled or slightly padded with smooth never bulky muscle to denote strength. The head is free of wrinkles and excess skin, although some folds on the forehead and topskull may appear when the dog is alerted. Eyes: The eyes are large, lemon-shaped, or open almond, dark brown in color, and set somewhat wide apart. The eyes should never appear almond, oblique, narrow, overly round, too deeply set, or bulging. The eye rims are well-fitted and well-pigmented. Inner eyelid membranes are preferred to be darkly pigmented and not pink. Exposure of whites or haws, drooping of the eyelids, or rolling of the eyelids either inwards or outwards is incorrect. The eyes are never bulging. There should be sufficient bone in the surrounding orbital sockets to protect the eyes. Ears: The ears are set high on the skull and wide apart at the outer edge of the skull. They may be naturally dropped or cropped long. Natural ears are moderate in size, v-shaped, broad at the base, and somewhat short, with the inner edge and tip falling close to the head in repose. Tips will come forward when alert. Cropped ears should be cropped long and tapering. Improperly cropped ears are not to be penalized. Upper and lower jaws have good bone substance, appearing strong and well-developed, never appearing snipey or weak. The muzzle plane must be level from the stop to the point of the nose. It may not be excessively pushed-in, long, dished up concaved , or downfaced convex. The tip of the nose should be level on the skull or may be just slightly higher than the muzzle at the stop. In profile, the end of the muzzle protrudes, or rounds, just beyond the point of the nose, giving the end of the muzzle a somewhat rounded profile. The lower jaw is only slightly turned up and must never protrude beyond the break of the lips. Nose: The nose is large, well-pigmented, and black or self-colored according to the coat. The nostrils are well-opened, never appearing narrowed or closed. The nose is never excessively pushed into the stop but sits at the end of the muzzle or just before the rounding of the end of the muzzle. Neck: Moderate length to allow for proud head carriage, strongly-muscled and distinctively arched. The neck tapers smoothly from the deeper and broader body toward the head. The neck is clean-cut, without excess skin, throatiness, or dewlap. Chest: Deep and broad but never wider than deep. The brisket extends to the point of the elbows. The forechest is well defined, yet not overly prominent. Body: Compact, solid, deep, and of good substance. The body is never racy or refined. The width at the forequarters is approximately equal to the width at the hindquarters. Feet: Oval to round, compact, with well-arched toes and tough pads. Tail: Set high on the croup, thick at the base and tapering toward the tip. The tail may be left natural or docked short. Natural tails preferred are of a medium length, with the tip of the last vertebrae extending to the hock joints when held down. They may be straight or gently curved. Docked tails should never be completely removed, leaving at minimum three vertebrae. The tail should never be kinked or screwed. The characteristics of a healthy structure are evident. When moving away, the forelegs and rear pasterns should remain parallel to one another. When viewing movement from the front, the forelegs should remain parallel, with elbows and paws moving neither in nor out. From the rear, the back pads should be visible when the rear legs are extended. As speed increases, the forelimbs and hindlimbs will converge to the center line of gravity. From the side, the topline should remain firm and level. Good reach of movement in the front allows the forepaw to extend out in line with the nose. When extended, the width between the forefeet should be approximately equal to the width between the hindfeet when extended, indicating balance, good reach, and good drive. Dogs that exhibit any sign of breathing or locomotive difficulty shall be disqualified from the show ring. They are confident, devoted, eager, and watchful. Any unprovoked aggressive or fearful behavior toward people is incorrect for this breed. The ideal body height-to-length ratio is between and .Females may be slightly longer. The body is well-put-together, with sturdy substance and medium bone. Males should appear masculine, being more substantial in size and mass, while females should appear more feminine and slightly less substantial. Neither should lack overall type. The weight of a male or female is always in proportion to height. Head General Appearance: Somewhat brachycephalic skull-type, having a fairly short muzzle and slight upturn to the lower jaw. Expression: Alert, intelligent, confident, and capable. Stop: The stop is definite, preferably forming a degree angle between the topskull and muzzle. Skull: The ideal muzzle-to-skull ratio is between to , with the topskull being longer than the muzzle. The ideal muzzle-to-skull axis is somewhat convergent. Lips or Flews: The lips are thick, broad, somewhat padded, and slightly loose. They are never overly droopy or pendulous. They fit snugly over the teeth and cover the jaws well. The upper and lower lip edges meet in front of the incisors, never covering the chin or lower lip. Cheeks: Cheeks may appear smooth or with slight padding of muscle to denote strength. The cheeks should not appear bulky or coarse. Dentition and Bite: Forty-two strong, clean, and white teeth. Reverse-scissor bite or slightly undershot bite preferred. Body and Tail General Description: Compact, solid, deep, and of good substance. Topline: Straight yet gently sloped from prominent withers to croup. The back is short, broad, strongly muscled, and straight, yet supple. The loin is taut and may be flat, level, or just slightly almost imperceptibly arched, yet supportive. The back is never level when standing, swayed, or roached. The topline may level out as the dog moves. Croup: Gently sloped and in line with the rest of the topline. It is strong, straight, and muscular. The croup and pelvis may be slightly longer and wider in females. Underline: The underline is short and tight, with a slight tuck up. The underline is taut and firm, without any indication of sagging or excess weight. Ribs: Long, well-sprung, well-laid-back, oval-shaped, never barrel-chested or slab-sided. Forequarters and Hindquarters Forequarters: The forequarters are always balanced with the hindquarters and well-angulated with well-laid-back shoulder blades. Shoulder blades are approximately equal in length to the upper arm and forearm. Elbows: The elbows are close to the body. Forelegs: Frontal View: Straight, of good muscle and bone, and parallel to one another. Side View: The forelimbs appear straight with strong pasterns. Pasterns: Never weak or broken. Hindquarters: The upper and lower thighs are equal in length, strong, sturdy, of good bone, and well-muscled. Rear View: When viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are parallel to one another. Side View: Good angulation will allow the rear toes to align with the point of the rump or within one to two paw lengths behind the point of the rump, with the rear pasterns remaining perpendicular to the ground and parallel to one another. Stifle Joint: Well-angulated with a good bend to well-let-down rear pasterns. Angulations: The angulation of the hindquarters is always in balance with the angulation of the forequarters. Coat Skin: Well-fitted, yet supple. The skin should never obstruct the outline of the dog. Coat Type: The coat is short, smooth, close, and fitting to the body throughout. The texture is hard and glossy. No fringe or feather is permissible. Standard color variety: Various shades of fawn light tan to mahogany, always with black mask , light brindle fawn with black mask , all with or without white tuxedo markings. From the root of the nose, folds are always indicated, running in a downward direction on both sides. Note: All standard-colored Boxers should have a clearly distinguished mask confined to the muzzle to contrast sharply with the rest of the coat. Non-standard color variety: Solid white, black, reverse-brindle, or seal, all with or without white markings, or primarily white with markings in the previously listed colors and patterns. Faults All dogs should be in proper healthy condition, free from disease or defect. Any departure from this description is considered a fault. Unless altered, all male dogs should have two fully descended testicles. How Much to Sell my Boxer Puppies for? I have a light brindle male boxer that is only CKC registered. How much should I sell their puppies for… what's the usual price? Photo Credit: Katie! Then see what the average adoption fee is for shelters in your area. That is what those puppies are worth. Answer by David Gilbo I paid for my male and for my female without papers. I now am having my own litter and I wouldn't sell them for any less than what I paid just cause I know both the dogs' backgrounds and they are well behaved great temperament and a great bloodline there just like my kids. CKC would register pretty much anything…they register designer dogs so that shows you how much they care. Really with only 1 of your dogs being AKC registered you shouldn't even be breeding them. I would have to check out both parents before I even purchased a boxer. As for papers, papers to me are just papers who cares. If someone really wants a dog they will pay. Just make sure they go to really good homes. Answer by Juan Garcia Honestly, I believe the price of a boxer pup depends on its features. The whole reason behind even creating a breed is to produce dogs with specific features. Buying a pup with a great pedigree is done as an attempt at ensuring the end results features. However, a boxer pup with; a bulldog head, pink inner eyelids, reg. Answer by Summer Yeah, papers are papers. Definitely make sure they go to good homes. All boxers need to be with a family that will make them part of there family.

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. As we all know too well, what we put in our belly has a huge impact on our health, vitality, length and quality of life. They have to strike a fine balance between getting enough nutrients to grow and avoiding an over-abundance that can lead to abnormal growth and disabling conditions. In this article you will learn precisely how to feed your puppy. What they can eat, what they should not, how many times you should feed them each day, basic information on home-made diets and the pros and cons of various commercial dog foods. The majority of Labrador owners feed their puppy kibble. Kibble is ground meal, shaped into dried biscuit-like pellets that are extremely convenient to buy, store and feed, providing everything a puppy needs in one easy to handle product. All the major brands carry a range of kibble and many are specifically formulated to suit the precise needs of puppies. For our recommendations of the best puppy food for labs, please read our article on: The Best Food for Labrador Puppies. Good breeders will supply you with all the information you need to feed your new puppy and you should follow this advice. Puppies almost always get upset tummies during a change of diet. The stress of moving to a new home is enough to deal with without them potentially having tummy upset on top. So try to avoid this. But expect your puppy to get diarrhea after such a sudden change. What Can Puppies Eat? With a bewildering choice of different puppy foods available, what to feed your puppy may not be the easiest decision to make. You Can Feed Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is ground up food, formed into pellets and dried for easy storage and convenience. It is a specially formulated, complete and balanced diet, containing everything a puppy needs to grow and be healthy. Many people believe kibble is the best way to feed a puppy, with it being so easy to buy, store and feed while containing every nutrient a puppy needs in the right proportions. Wet, Complete Puppy Foods Are An Option As the name suggests, complete wet dog food is complete and balanced, meaning nothing should be fed in combination. Everything needed is included in this one food. Complete wet foods come in individual pouches or tins with one pouch or tin containing one single serving. In the main these foods are low in nutrition, contain a high amount of cheap fillers, by-products and water and need mixing with a biscuit to give them some substance and to make them more complete. Because the food is such low quality, you have to feed a lot of it. And what goes in, must come out. This type of feeding was popular decades ago and I do remember my parents feeding our first dogs this way, but most people have moved on from this and are feeding their dogs in better ways now. Raw Food, BARF And Home-Made Diets Raw feeding is a diet that consists of mostly raw meat, edible bones and animal organs, though most practitioners also mix in small portions of fruit, veg and selected other foodstuffs. There are many people feel strongly that this is the best possible way to feed a dog. But I would caution most people that to feed this diet successfully, you need to do A LOT of research, gain a lot of knowledge and truly understand a dogs nutritional needs to make sure they get exactly what they need in the right amounts. Many people wonder if they can feed their puppy human foods, anything found in the fridge or larder. Furthermore, there are many human foods that are toxic to dogs that you should avoid at all costs. Too much of some nutrients can be bad in itself, but also prevent the absorption and use of other nutrients too. So supplementing a balanced diet is a bad thing to do. Can You Give Puppies Milk? Assuming you get your puppy at the recommended 8 weeks, they will have been fully weaned before you bring them home. Many puppies are intolerant of cows milk and drinking it leads to an upset tummy and diarrhea so you would do best to avoid giving your puppy any milk at all. One exception is for very young puppies under 6 weeks of age. When we have newborn puppies at our house we sometimes need to supplement and use Esbilac Milk Supplemen t. However, if you have a very young puppy that you think may need supplementing please first consult with your veterinarian. Are They Necessary? You will likely be feeding your puppy a commercially available complete and balanced dog food, in which case you certainly should not supplement their food. Supplementing this will mean too much of one or more things, making it unbalanced which can actually lead to harm. But an excess amount of calcium in the diet of a Lab puppy can lead to skeletal development problems. So adding a calcium supplement to an already complete diet can actually do more harm than good. There may also be times your vet advises you to do so. But if feeding raw, you should know more about nutrition than I do. This is a hard question to answer and sadly I cannot give you a definite quantity or weight to feed them each day. Puppies grow at different rates, some are more active than others and there can be large differences between metabolisms too. However… The biggest determining factor is how concentrated the nutrients and calories are in the brand of food you feed them. High quality foods are nutrient rich and give a puppy all they need from quite small amounts of food. But cheaper brands are full of low quality and nutritionally empty fillers that mean a puppy needs considerably more to get what they need. Start by feeding your puppy according to the guidelines on the label of the puppy food you buy for them. Then see how their body develops. Puppies should not be fat! But at the other end of the scale if they start to look and feel a little slim, up their portion sizes a little. The guidelines on the food you buy are just that…guidelines. You might also be interested in:. The source of protein matters when considering a high-quality diet. FATS The rest of the diet should be made up of fats, carbs, and vitamins. Labs need to have a correct protein -to-fat ratio, where protein takes the lead. Dogs tend to convert fat into glucose, so this is an important source of energy. Dogs rely mostly on protein and fats, but carbs are necessary. That said, a low carb diet is best for puppies. However, you still need the right percentage of carbs, since this gives your dog the sensation of being full. These include starches, fibers, and sugars. Try to opt for more complex carbs like starchy grain and veggies because these are easier to digest. Your Lab puppy will thrive when his or her diet includes: Vitamin B12 especially during puppy development , Vitamins A and E, C, Vitamin D, phosphorus, and calcium, Potassium Each of these required vitamins and minerals contributes to a healthy, happy, and energetic puppy. They also help offset issues like obesity. Vitamins A and E are important because they help your dog burn calories and promote eye and skin health. Vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus, on the other hand, are part of a trifecta that works to strengthen teeth and bones. Potassium is a heart health-preserver. Labs with poor genetics are especially prone to orthopedic issues. Osteoarthritis and hip dysplasia are common health problems for this breed. Glucosamine, an amino-sugar, together with chondroitin sulfate, helps replace and support naturally degrading cartilage during old age. Recently,"grain-free" foods are being championed as a preferred and even high-quality form of dog food. That's, not the whole story. An investigation launched by the FDA revealed that there are potential links between a form of canine heart disease and grain-free foods. So far, researchers have provided an update to this researchers have provided an update to this research staring that the issue may not just be grain-free diets. Grain-free may be part of other trends knows as "BEG"- boutique companies. Puppy diets don't' need to be complicated. They also don't need to include ingredients that humans might enjoy. Enjoyment doesn't necessarily bring any nutritional value to your puppy's development. Keep it simple, using the guidelines for fats, proteins, and carbs above and don't shy away from food with grains in them. It's not their presence that's a problem it's often the ratio. There shouldn't be more carbs or grains than protein. Nor does including only legumes, seeds, lentils, or chickpeas as the primary ingredients make the food more superior. It's perfectly healthy to include complex carb sources like starchy rice and other grains. Grain-free isn't and shouldn't be a qualifying factor for your choice in puppy food. Feeding Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is dried, pelleted food that stores well is easy to eat, and is pre-formulated with everything your puppy needs to thrive and grow in his early developmental months. There are plenty of popular brands that don't measure up to the Snowy Pines standard. That's why it's so vital for you to learn how to read puppy food labels. Puppies should stick with "puppy stage" food, while adults should stick to bags marked "adults. Instead, your dog should have regular bowel movements, allowing them to absorb all the nutrients available. You should also keep in mind that caloric intake is calculated a little differently for puppies. Kibble diets are measured by how many calories the proteins, fats, and carbs represent for each gram. For puppies, this should be 3. Sticking to these ratios will help ensure your kibble choice is a healthy one. It's also important to note that kibble calories are often higher when compared to wet food. If it's high-quality wet food, it won't have as much fat to preserve it, which means fewer calories. You may have to supplement with dry food, especially if you're trying to keep the calories of carbs, proteins, and fats in the right per-gram ratio. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. Although I am not a veterinarian myself, I have been a lab owner for 11 years and been in the pet food industry for the last 6 years. However, if this is not the case for your pupper, no need to worry. Be sure not to feed normal cerelac or cow milk as that will result in loose motion as well as stunted growth. At this tender age, you need to feed your lab pup via feeding bottle like you would feed a human baby of age 2 months. Milk is the only food apart from purified water which your dog is gonna need till 1. After this age, till 3 months you have two options. You can either continue with milk or look at starter food options like Royal Canin Maxi starter , Drools starter, Farmina Puppy Starter, Canine Creek Starter , Orijen puppy and plenty of other brands which are available in the market. The kibble for starter food is small and most probably, your puppy will be able to chew it. Certain dry food can be extremely hard to chew, so depending on the toughness of the kibble you might have to break i. Puppies of age 1. You should be following this diet of starter food till 3 months age at least. Also, make sure you are vaccinating as well as deworming your pup at the right intervals. So, a proper nutritious diet is essential to achieve good growth. You can either go for Royal Canin Maxi Junior or Royal Canin Labrador Junior or puppy variants of other brands like drools, canine creek, Orijen Puppy and Junior Recommended , Acana large breed puppy, pedigree not recommended at this age. If you are giving a good diet like Royal Canin, farmina or even home-made food, growth should be good. For those who can extend their budget, you can go for something even more premium like Acana, Orijen, Arden Grange and the likes. No need to add additional supplements. If you are feeding home-made food like boiled chicken which itself is a very good food option, consider adding some fish oils like Beaphar Salmon Oil. However, a good diet is recommended to ensure a good life span above 12 years and muscle development. Homemade food can be a healthy option as well. Feeding guide amount to feed in grams depends on dog weight and varies from brand to brand. You will find the recommended portion for your brand based on the calories it carries on the packet you will buy. At other times, you can give chews or treats but whole meal should be fed not more than twice a day. Do not keep food available in front of the dog except during his eating time. However, you can keep water available in a bowl all the time. Sticking to schedule regularly is recommended. Wait, till now we have been speaking about commercial dry food. Yes, this happens to many dogs. While some dogs like pugs are voracious eaters, labs or goldens can be extremely choosy. They will eat whatever liquid you put in the feeding bottle at this age. However, once puppies mature and learn to eat themselves, they may not like dry food, rarely touch it. In these cases, the best option is to first add a home-made additive with the dry food. You may add many things dog like in small quantities of chicken stalk, chicken pieces boneless for puppies , curd, egg and others to the dry food. Changing or trying out another brand helps as well. I have seen many dogs who hate Drools but like Canine Creek although they are manufactured by same company. Every dog has a mind of his own. Most common diseases of Indian bred dogs like canine hyp dysplasia, ear infections, bent hind legs can happen to any dog. Take your dog to a registered veterinary practitioner in case such situations arise. Lack of appetite is also observed during this age at times. For not-so-severe cases, you may administer Himalaya Liv52 syrup or tabs or other appetite stimulants of various brands twice a day for days. In case, your dog has gastrointestinal disorders, referring to a prescription diet under the guidance of a veterinarian can be immensely helpful. This entry was posted in Pet Blog. Bookmark the permalink. You are planning to adopt a Labrador puppy, or already are a proud pet parent of one, you must be anxious about how best to assure optimum growth and health to your pup. This piece of writing is an attempt to give you some useful information about the kind of food which you can feed and also about how best you can feed it. In earlier times, the breed was mostly utilized and appreciated for being a versatile hunter. It can hunt on land as well as water; besides, this intelligent dog is a possessor of a gentle temperament, which makes it easily fit into the role of a friendly family dog. Types of Dog food Broadly speaking, the food for your pet is available in three forms — Wet, Dry and Raw. Wet food is the commercially manufactured food which offers chunks of meat, with or without gravy, with added vitamins, minerals and other important elements to make it nutritionally complete and balanced. Dry food consists of pellets called kibbles of food, which are easy to store and convenient to serve. The ready-made food bits meant for puppies consist of nutrients in the right proportions to support a healthy growth. Raw diet consists of raw meat, bones, fruits and vegetables. There are benefits and risks involved in administering a raw diet, which one should be aware of before adopting a fully raw diet. You may go for dry, wet or raw diet, or a combination of them. You may also consult your vet to guide in case you are confused about your choices. Labradors are always hungry and that is because of their huge appetites. As a pet owner you need to monitor the amount of food they eat, as their greed for food can easily drive them towards obesity, and consequently towards various diseases. Commercially made food Many companies categorize their foods on the basis of life stage puppy, adult, senior , breed large, medium or small , or may offer pet food specifically targeting a particular breed like Royal Canin Labrador Junior , which seeks to take care of a Labrador dog up to 15 months of age. The formulation of diets like this are based on the assumption that all pure breed dogs have their unique needs, which if addressed would bring the dog to an optimum level of health. Information from the breeders If you have brought the puppy from a breeder, then he would supply you a diet routine which needs to be followed, some food or may be some information regarding feeding. Follow it religiously for some days to give some sort of familiar touch to the puppy that is undergoing the stress of being separated from its mother and siblings. In absence of any information from the breeder, best thing would be to consult a vet. Milk for the puppy? Beware of confusing food labels Learn how to read a food label. The food label is given in decreasing order, making the first ingredient the biggest element in the food. That is why it is very important to know what the first two or three ingredients of the food are. Ideally, the first element of any dog food should be a specific kind of meat like chicken, duck, beef ; meat-by-product, meat or animal should not be mentioned on the package as they present an ambiguous picture. Leftover of slaughter houses can find its way to your dog food, something which cannot be classed in the category of healthy and complete food. So if you care for your dog, be aware and make the right selection. Water Make sure that water is available to the puppies at all times of the day, except for one hour before sleeping time. Divide the daily diet The daily dietary requirement of your Labrador pup should be properly divided into portions of meal to be fed at regular intervals. This would help in managing digestion and for keeping its overall health at a good level. You can begin by feeding four meals a day to your 8 to 12 weeks old puppy, and have a time marked for each. Have a gap of at least 3 hours in between each meal so that the little doggie is able to digest it well. Two meals a day is also something which most dog owners continue to feed even after the dog grows up. Feeding your dog once a day after 12 months of age can work as long as you feed it raw meat. The dry kibbles tend to swell once the dog drinks water, and this may cause bloating and also damage its stomach, hence is strictly not recommended. Teach the dog to eat at meal times Your dog would learn to eat the food when it is offered to it if you take back the bowl after a specific interval of time, say 15 to 20 minutes. Household scraps Avoid giving leftovers from your own meals to your puppy, unless you have enough knowledge and experience in dealing with the nutritional requirements of a growing canine. The nutritional needs of your puppy are different than that of humans; also it may differ from one breed of dog to another. The growing pup needs complete and balanced diet to achieve its potential growth, otherwise lifelong disabilities or problems can find easy entry into its life. As, your heartfelt, but nutritionally lacking edible additions might unbalance the diet of your dog. How much to feed? How much food to feed your dog each day is something no one can precisely tell. But the guidelines on the package of the food you are feeding, along with your observation of how the dog is doing with the quantity fed, would help you decide an adequate quantity. The important thing to remember is that the dog should neither be too fat or too slim. Following some instructions related to diet, regular appointments with vet, observing the puppy and showering it with lots and lots of love would give such environment to the little canine in which it would thrive. About Petsworld Team The blog editor of Pets World is a pet aficionado and fervently follows her pet-obsession. A pet parent to animals big and small for the past two decades. The sum of all experiences gathered is an amalgamation of useful knowledge and research. More like this. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.

Baby von Bachfeld is a stunning 5 month old German Shepherd. Since people sometimes forget to notify us, some of these dogs may already be adopted. Thunder is a goofy, fun loving, 2 year old purebred German Shepherd in perfect health. He has had a well-rounded upbringing in a loving home and has great obedience. He is an excellent adventure buddy and has lots of experience camping, swimming, and hiking. He loves to play ball and tug, and show off his tricks. He often joins a bike ride around the neighborhood and runs nicely alongside the bike. He lives to play in any form of water — pool, lake, river, ocean, garden hose, you name it. He has good food drive and is not a big barker. Thunder would do best with an active, outdoorsy family. He is still with his original owner and the only reason for rehoming is that he doesn't get along with the other dogs in the home. Adopters with prior GSD experience preferred. Thunder is neutered and all vaccines are current. Contact Jenny Dennis: jenny wetnosestraining. He is a resilient, loyal boy and LOVES squeaky plushee toys, string cheese, going for walks, and being with people. He will get on your lap and sleep if you let him! He has basic obedience training, is housebroken and is currently going through more training. He is a bit anxious due to lack of socialization before we rescued him and, as a result, does not like other animals. We have a newborn at home and her constant crying is causing him stress that is not subsiding. We are heartbroken to rehome him and know he will thrive where he is the only animal and either no children or older children. We will set up his new home with everything - crate, toys, leash, etc. He is neutered and there is a small rehoming fee. Please contact Janel at janelbyrne gmail. We know his next people are out there and will love him as much as we do! Look no further - Dakota the lovebug and protector is here! While female dogs and cats are not her friends, male dogs, small dogs and people could not be any closer to her heart. She knows sit and stay and has had some obedience training but could always use more who couldn't? Someone with an active lifestyle would be ideal for Dakota, whether it be hikes, runs, walks or even just car rides which she also enjoys. Dakota is up to date on all of her vaccinations and is spayed. If you think Dakota would be a great addition to your home, please contact me jtoddb23 gmail. Willow is a gorgeous year old German Shepherd. Willow is with a wonderful foster family who has shown her how much fun being a dog can be. They have a black lab that she adores and she learned what a ball was and how to go up and down stairs. She spent a month at Canyon View Ranch being trained and knows basic commands very well. She is incredible on leash and hikes off leash daily. She is crate trained and behaves well in the house. She needs to be properly introduced to new people, which is typical for this breed in general. She is spayed, up to date with shots and ready for her forever family. She would love another playful dog in her new home. For more info, please contact Kathryn kathrynreedretzer gmail. He is crate trained and loves to be around people who will give him hugs and belly rubs. His family is full with another two fur children and a toddler with autism. While they love him dearly, they are aware they can't provide the love he needs and the two older dogs in the home don't appreciate his happy puppy energy. Holliday is currently separated from the other two dogs in the home in Yucaipa, CA and deserves to have the full attention of a loving family. Please help us find his forever home. Holliday is neutered and up to date on his shots. Please contact me at chewadore gmail. He is very smart and always up for some fun. He loves people and dogs and doesn't have an aggressive bone in his body. Walter responds very well to training and can jump very high! Agility anyone? Walter is neutered, up to date on shots and ready for his forever home. For more info on him, please click HERE. Because they need to be adopted together. Sweet, affectionate, playful and loving, Daisy and Luna will light up your world with loyalty, laughter and love. She knows several commands such as sit, shake and will roll over for belly rubs. She is good with other dogs and great at the dog park. She is eager to please and very social. Her owner is a student who realized that her living situation does not allow her to give Margot the attention she deserves. She is now being fostered with the parents and is located in Camarillo, CA. Please help us find her a forever home! Margot is spayed and has current vaccinations. There is a rehoming fee. Please contact Christine cwillingham16 yahoo. Tyson is such a gorgeous year old German Shepherd. Not only is he handsome, but he is very friendly, playful and affectionate and does well with other dogs. If you're interested in Tyson, please fill out an application for the Lovejoy Foundation here: application lovejoyfoundation. A super sweet boy, beware, you will get lots of hugs and lots of kisses! He's playful and cheeky and loves walks and playing with other dogs - medium and large. He's house trained and loves to learn new lessons -- he can sit, lay down, heel and is learning to stay. He gets along great with other dogs easily once they take a walk together. Astro was once a puppy who had a forever home where the new owner decided that no dogs would be allowed. His foster family has medical issues and he is being evicted again! Please help us find him another foster or forever home! Astro is neutered and has current vaccinations. Please contact Karen karenmaish yahoo. Gunner is a beautiful 5-year-old purebred German Shepherd. We are only re-homing Gunner due to financial burdens and are very sad at the prospect of losing him. Handsome Gunner loves hiking, going on runs, and playing fetch. Gunner is good with people, male and female, plus good with kids! He can be alpha with other dogs and protective of his pack; thus, he would do best as the only dog in the home. Someone with GSD experience would be ideal. If you are interested in Gunner, please email Rachael Rachmbulld gmail. German Shepherds for sale in Los Angeles Regis Regal Specializes in providing world class German Shepherd puppies and trained adult dogs Serving Los Angeles with german shepherds since With over 30 years experience in the breeding and training of world-class German Shepherds from some of the top bloodlines out of Germany, here at Regis Regal German Shepherds we've been very proud to have sold our puppies and adult dogs to the residents of Los Angeles. We're a small family run operation with our main training and breeding facilities based in Spring Grove, Illinois. Because of the quality and pedigree of our German Shepherds there's been a demand for our dogs all over the world. The owner, Cynthia Kelly, has a lifetime of experience in creating the perfect family companion, service dog or therapy dog. Because of the lack of top quality German Shepherd breeders in some parts of the United States, we've carefully set ourselves up so that we can send our dogs direct to your home by use of a private courier service. At Regis Regal German Shepherds we produce a select number of puppies at any one time, and take the utmost care when raising and training them ready for ownership. You should not forget that when it comes to buying a puppy you also need to be mindful of other costs outside of the purchase or adoption fee. Send us a message or give us a ring on .German Shepherds we've rehomed in Los Angeles Take a look at our map of LA to see roughly where we've shipped some of our German Shepherds before - and delighted some of the local residents and celebrities! Emotional support dogs are suited for both children and adults and have the ability to work with their owners in all types of locations. We have placed many dogs with children and teenagers in LA that suffer from anxiety, depression, PTSD, and manic disorders. Service dogs provide a physical service to their owners. We have been incredibly successful in providing service dogs to children afflicted with Autism and Asbergers, as our dogs can help to enhance the verbal skills of non-verbal Autistic children and support their overall way of communicating. Some of our previous placements our dog courier service - we ship to your door in LA! You might find this a bit hard to believe but we actually ship right to your door, wherever you are based in the US! Such is the demand for one of our dogs we decided it would make things a lot easier for our customers if we could hand-deliver them right to you. For those people in need of a top class GSD, and who can't get to our premises, this is a bit of a lifesaver. We make use of a private courier service whereby they come to us and pickup the dog in their vehicle before making the journey to your home. Our driver is well trained in the handling and care of your dog on the trip, and due to their temperament our dogs always enjoy the journey! On rare occasions our dogs have flown out to their destination, again accommpanied by one of the Regis Regal team to ensure for a very smooth and calm trip. We also go through a very thorough process to make sure our dogs are going to the right kind of owner - at the end of the day it's really important that we can rest easy at night knowing they'll be going to someone that's going to love them as much as we do. Because of COVID we've held plenty of online meetings where you can ask us any questions about our dogs, and you can even get to meet-and-greet them virtually! Reviews from Customers based in LA We like to think we've made a lot of people in Los Angeles happy over the years that we've been in business. Take a look below at some of the feedback we've received to date. You can find more reviews of ours here too. He is just incredible! Cindy is very responsive. She has been a valuable resource in training our dog. As you can imagine this can change quite regularly - so please send us a message below, or give us a call on .We look forward to hearing from you! Your name. We have answers. German Shepherd puppies for sale in Los Angeles can range in price depending on the specific qualifications you are looking for. German Shepherd breeders in Los Angeles are likely priced similarly to breeders and companies within our larger network based on variants such as temperament, color, sizing and more. For instance, a white German Shepherd for sale Los Angeles will likely be priced slightly more since the white coat is more rare. While you may be connected with Gerham Shepherd puppies for sale in Los Angeles CA region, we also have a national network of top notch breeders who are experienced in arranging travel for your pup to any of the 48 mainland states in the U. Any German Shepherd puppies Los Angeles that come through us will come from one of our hand selected and screened partners. Is Uptown Puppies a breeder? Uptown Puppies is not a breeder. We are a MatchMaking service that works to put the perfect puppy into the hands of the right family for the best pup fit possible! Can I meet any puppies that may be a fit for me? If you connect with a local German Shepherd sale Los Angeles you are able to drive to interact with or pick your pooch! All of the breeders and business we work with maintaining the highest standards of breeding and pedigree to ensure you are getting a purebred puppy with verified lineage to take home. How does your service work? Our MatchMaker service works by understanding you and your families lifestyle and needs and then connecting you with a breeder or company who has the perfect pooch for you! We know that the process of finding a new pet can be overwhelming and our process takes out the stress of identifying and finding the right one, so you can focus on the fun stuff. Can I be sure Uptown is trustworthy? Absolutely, check out our Breeder Pledge to read more about our breeder standards. We only work with professionals who are committed to the highest levels of animal welfare and care.

The perfect combination! But how often should you bathe a Labradoodle, anyway? And how to do it? First of all, regular grooming and brushing is crucial to prevent matting and tangling, which can quickly turn into a matted mess if left unattended. And believe us, no one wants to deal with a miserably tangled pup! Speaking of bathtime, regular bathing helps to remove dirt, debris, and any lingering odors that your pup may have picked up on their outdoor romps. With a little TLC and some time spent in the tub, your Labradoodle will smell fresh, which is obviously nice for both of you. Just make sure to use a dog shampoo, as human shampoos can strip their skin of precious oils and cause unwanted skin irritations. Did you know that you can use special shampoos for targeted care? So grab that brush, fill up the tub, and show your pup some grooming love today! Labradoodles come in either curly, wavy, or straight coats, depending on which genetics they inherit from each of their purebred parents. Curly coats tend to trap in dirt, debris, and loose dog hair, which can quickly lead to stubborn knots and tangles inside the fur. Then we have the wavy combination coat, that may shed some hair, depending on whether they have an undercoat or not. These pups usually come with a double coat, which means that some shedding may be present. Fortunately, you can keep this at a minimum by regularly brushing your Labradoodle. It goes without saying that Labradoodles really shine with their long and fluffy coats, giving them that signature Doodle look. However, long hair also requires more brushing and bathing. This helps prevent matting, but also get rid of any build-up dirt, dander, loose dog hair, and debris from the coat. On the other hand, shorter hair is usually easier to manage and maintain. And for other pups, washing them every two months is perfectly enough! But if your Labradoodle struggles with skin dryness or irritations, then bathing them too often could lead to more problems down the line. We recommend you start bathing your Labradoodle as soon as possible. In fact, many reputable Labradoodle breeders already start basic grooming, such as brushing, nail trimming, and bathing even before adoption. Just make sure you continue with this at home so that your pooch can get used to it. For this step, we recommend you also get a dog detangler spray , which will help you get the job done much faster. The next logical question would be — how to brush a Labradoodle? First, you want to run your fingers through all areas of the fur. If you find any knots, first work on each of them individually with a sturdy metal comb. Make sure you never pull on the hair! Start from the feet and paws, moving your way up towards the belly and neck, and finish with the back. Be sure to start brushing from the tip of the hair and then moving up towards the root to prevent any tangles getting worse. One of our favorite methods for Doodles is line brushing — say goodbye to any knots and tangles! Start out by putting a little bit of warm water in the bottom of your bathtub so that your pup can just stand in it. You might even want to let them sniff and inspect it first. If your Dood seems all good, you can turn on the showerhead while petting them at the same time. Having a few tasty treats at hand can also be helpful here! For the ears, we recommend putting cotton balls right at the opening of the ear canals. This will prevent any water from getting into the ears. Make sure that the water temperature is just right — not too hot and not too cold. By thoroughly rinsing the coat beforehand, the shampoo can also lather up nice and easy. Apply a generous amount of your chosen dog shampoo and lather it up all over the coat. Make sure you properly massage the shampoo into the fur so that you can get all areas clean. Also, be mindful of areas like the armpits and groin, as some people tend to overlook them. This is also a great opportunity for you to check for any lumps and bumps under the skin. Again, make sure you use warm water and thoroughly rinse off all areas of the fur, especially armpits and groin, where the suds tend to collect. For obvious reasons, we recommend a tearless dog shampoo for the facial area. You might want to pay some extra attention to areas that tend to get dirty, such as the muzzle and beard. Since the face can be a bit tricky, it might take some time to thoroughly rinse off all that shampoo. Apply a decent amount of conditioner with your hands all over the fur. Although conditioning the head and face is optional, it is recommended for curly-coated Labradoodles. This way, the product gets into all areas of the fur, but also prevents tangling. Again, pay extra attention to those hard-to-reach areas that we tend to overlook. Before you jump in with a towel, let your pooch shake all that excess water off themself. Then, you can gently squeeze out any excess water from areas with longer hair with your hands. Then, take your towel and start gently, yet firmly patting your Labradoodle dry all over. You should start with the lowest power and temperature settings. If necessary, you can gradually increase the settings, but the temperature should never get too hot. Also, keep in mind that some pups can get scared of noisy blow dryers. You can also use a leave-in dog conditioner or a dog detangler spray and brush it through the fur to keep the coat tangle-free and luscious for longer. We recommend you use a specially formulated dog ear cleaner for this step, as Labradoodles and other Poodle mixes are prone to ear infections due to the restricted air flow inside their ears. It goes without saying that you should never use a human shampoo on your pooch, as it could lead to skin irritations, dryness, and a host of other issues. We recommend you check out our in-depth guide on the best shampoos for Labradoodles , where we have some excellent recommendations for different skin and coat concerns. Labradoodles need to be bathed every two to three weeks. This will help clean their fur and allow you to check their skin. Dogs can get dirty really easily, and they need regular grooming to remove dirt and dust from their coats. Bathing your Labradoodle is not only essential to keep them clean and healthy, it helps to prevent hair knots and matting As a single coated and low shedding breed, Labradoodles will require deep rinsing when they are bathed. A small Doodle puppy having a bath Regular brushing, bathing, and groomings are all different things. Grooms include the trimming of the fur, and is usually done together with bathing or directly before. Groom every weeks for most Labradoodle coats Bathing helps with both aesthetics, coat health, and prevention of skin conditions Brushing for a wavy or curly coat LAbradoodle should be at least every few days the more the merrier If you own a straight coat Labradoodle shedding you should consider how much shedding is happening. If it is a higher shedding season, you should bathe and groom your dog more frequently to assist in shedding. Also, if your dog spends a lot of time outside, he gets dirty with sweat, mud, pollens, or sticks. He needs a more frequent grooming routine. This causes your dog to itch. Grooming for Labradoodles like Max after the beach means thorough rinsing with fresh water, followed by a Gentle Shampoo and brush at home. Labradoodle puppies need bathing just the same as full-grown Labradoodles. However a spot clean here and there is usually more appropriate for a puppy. They frequently make messes so a full bath is overkill and can hurt the coat. Puppies love playing in the dirt. This is normal behavior. Puppies often also struggle with potty training Puppies make a beeline toward bad smells and messes So expect a lot of spot cleans and mini baths for your Labradoodle puppy. How Old Should Labradoodle Puppies Be For Bath In terms of a full bath, you can start bathing your puppy when he or she is old enough to understand what is happening. Make sure you do this in an appropriate place, such as a bathtub or sink. Puppies need to learn about water before being bathed, so try to teach your puppy to enjoy baths. Do this by slowly introducing the concept, making it seem fun, and minimizing background distractions. Bathing dogs in a smaller container makes them feel more comfortable. These small gestures all work well together to create and reinforce a positive experience. Instead of using adult Labradoodle shampoo — go for a gentle puppy shampoo or even some baby shampoos if they are Vet and Groomer approved. Straight hair dogs still can have some Poodle-esque snout furnishings. This one needs a bath! A Labradoodle needs to be groomed and trimmed about once every two months. Trimming the hair around the face, butt, and ears is important because this is where most dirt accumulates. Our detailed grooming guide for Labradoodles gives 11 tips for DIY grooming. It is very possible to confidently groom a Labradoodle, but it takes preparation and practice. How to Bathe Your Labradoodle Bathing your Labradoodle takes longer than bathing many other breeds because of their thick coats. You should set aside some time before you bathe your Labradoodle so you can prepare everything you need beforehand. Some Labradoodles LOVE the water and playing fetch At Home Labradoodle Bathing Shopping List A decent shampoo that suits Labradoodle coats does not need to be crazy expensive Towels many, many towels Scissors even though we are not grooming, in case of knots or surprises Rubber gloves I do not use but many do Dog brush optional — I suggest a metal comb as well Small bucket for rinsing Tear stain remover if your Labradoodle has a light coat The Process in the Bath for your Labradoodle Acclimate your Labradoodle to the bath by putting some water in the bottom of a tub and allowing him to stand in it. Turn on the showerhead or hose attachment while petting him. Make sure he sees it is not harmful and allows him to get used to the sound and feel. Rinse first before adding any product. Sand, dirt, debris. Make sure the water gets to the skin level through the long coat. Once you are able to get the dogs completely rinsed off so that there is no visible dirt left on the fur and their coats are entirely wet , you will then want to lather them up with the product of your choosing. Labradoodle Max enjoys a cuddle in a towel after a shower and bath Make sure that this product is safe to use on your dog by checking with a veterinarian or by using products that were specifically designed for your furry friend. Use this opportunity to perform your own health check. Rinse your dog with water from the tap or small bucket and inspect them thoroughly before washing them again. Twice over gives a thorough and great result. This might seem obvious, but make sure there are no more bubbles coming out of the coat. Labradoodle luxurious hair does tend to trap some soap. Dry Time a Challenge Drying a Labradoodle is hard work! You need to use lots of towels, and you need to be careful not to scare your puppy too much. Use a hairdryer if you like, and be careful when turning it on. Also, take extra care to dry their eyes and ears. Most dogs find the noise of a hairdryer overwhelming. Brush a dry dog only. A wet dog can be combed blunt steel comb though, these are so helpful. You should bathe your dog fully when he is 3 months old. Use quality puppy shampoo and conditioners designed for puppies. You can skip the conditioner really — but some owners like this extra step. Before 3 months, you should get him used to being wet and having been washed. Do mini baths or fast baths for the puppy coat until this age. This helps make future baths much easier. Even getting used to the running water and towel dry will help your dog be happier as an adult doodle during a grooming session. The Consequences of too Many Baths for Labradoodles If you wash a Labradoodle too frequently, we risk damaging their adult coat. The coat needs time to grow and develop properly. If you wash your dog too often, you could damage its natural protective oils and leave it feeling rough and scratchy. The likelihood of skin irritation or reaction to cleaning equipment also increased with an over-washed coat. Dry skin, loose hair, and irritated skin need to be monitored. Realistically this will not be a concern for most of us. Our Labradoodle Max does visit the beach often, so he gets washed in Summer FAR more frequently than the other times of the year. We try to efficiently wash him using safe and gentle shampoo — but cut down the repeat lathering. When winter comes round, he bathes far less frequently — but we use more shampoo and later more when he does wash. A happy gray Poodle and Doodle dog. Their fur looks dull and lifeless. The entire coat has an odor If you have a sedentary, indoor Labradoodle — do NOT feel obliged to bathe your dog every 2 weeks. That said, you can help make bath time easier for your Labrador by starting early and introducing him to water gently. Use treats and praises to introduce him to all elements of the bathing process. A dog needs to learn how to take baths, shampoo, conditioner, wash rags, brushes, and blow dryer. It takes time and effort to teach a dog everything he or she needs to know about bathing. Start with a few short baths then gradually increase the frequency. Be patient. Dogs and puppies can take many different attempts to understand and learn a new concept. Should you blow-dry a Labradoodle coat? Start by using a gentle hairdryer setting. I know this sounds ridiculous as even the quiet settings are often very intense. But as possible, build up the settings slowly. Start with the outside of the legs — most dogs tolerate this the most. Then dry the legs. Save the head, chest, and face for the very last. The restraint is calming a bit and safe and makes maneuvering around a displeased Labradoodle much easier. It is the only area that requires you to have a little extra knowledge and to be cautious. We have a guide specifically about ear cleaning. A big number of issues that Labradoodles have with health and odor all relate to the ears. Ear infections are common, as are grime and mites caught in the ear hair. The Curly coat type is particularly prone to this issue. It was the most surprising area of grooming that I have encountered with Poodle Mix breeds. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Australian Labradoodle Grooming Guide Choosing a Groomer Before you bring your Australian Labradoodle to the groomer, ask if they have had previous experience clipping Australian Labradoodles. Show your groomer some photos from our website so that they know exactly how you expect the clip to look. Labradoodle coats require a regular brushing and grooming routine. How often you have your Australian Labradoodle trimmed will depend on how fast their coat grows, your personal preferences in how long you leave them, how much maintenance you want to do at home, and how often you have them groomed professionally. You can expect to bathe and completely blow out their coat every weeks, and plan to have them trimmed approximately every weeks. For an adult Australian Labradoodle, you should allow on average, 60 minutes every two weeks for brushing time. If your Labradoodle is active in the water or hiking in nature areas, you may have to run a brush through them more often to remove debris or loosen hair clumping during the drying process post-swimming. Wait until your dog is dry, then run a slicker through their coat. Purchasing a small grooming table and arm, and training them to stand still during brushing and drying will save your back. But be warned that you need to always have a hand on your dog when they are on the grooming table or attached to a grooming arm. Never leave them or turn away or they can try to jump off the table and injure themselves. When your Labradoodle has short hair, an inch or two, regular brushing with a slicker can work just fine. Once the hair gets longer, it is important to make sure you are reaching all the way to the base of the hair by adding a metal greyhound comb. If loose hair is not removed near the skin, mats can begin to form. In separating your dogs coat with your hand, you can brush and comb all the way to the skin. Work backwards from the feet up to the body, and the tail to the head. Brush in the direction of the hair, but add small amounts of coat to each stroke. At approximately eight months old a puppy coat needs more frequent brushing during its changeover to the adult coat. Bathing: Australian Labradoodles need bathed and brushed out approximately once a month. Puppies can be bathed as needed. If you are going to bath your Australian Labradoodle at home, be sure to brush through the coat completely first. If you do it the other way around, any mats will get tighter when you get them wet. Also, watch that you do not pull on the mat while you are cutting it, and be aware of how closely the skin may be to your scissors. We also use a dematting tool to help break a mat into a smaller piece for easier removal. Then brush, comb, or gently work any mats out. Purchasing a commercial hair dryer is worth the investment and will speed up the drying process. Head: The lovable teddy bear look of your Australian Labradoodle is enjoyed every time you look at them, and every time you take them out and others look at them. No matter what length the body is trimmed, that adorable teddy bear face can make up the difference in winning hearts everywhere they go. A picture is worth a thousand words, so the photos and grooming card below coming soon will help to clarify the following worded instructions you will need to convey to your groomer to get exactly the look you want to see. It is best to print out the grooming card and take it with you at each visit to your groomer. This creates a more natural look and keeps the hair from poking at or covering their eyes. It also makes it easier to clean any matter out from the corner in the morning. Feet: Keeping your Labradoodles paws shaped nicely will help less water and debris attach to their feet as they are coming and going. We start trimming around their paws by around weeks of age to get them used to the action of having their feet picked up and worked with. You want to go around the bottom edge of their paw in a nice, rounded shape, snipping off longer hair so that it does not hit the ground. Your groomer can trim hair from the bottom of their feet with a clipper and a 30 blade. Nails should be trimmed regularly every weeks depending on wear. The hair under their tail should also be trimmed to keep the area clean. It is important to realize that regular brushing, bathing, and grooming are different things. Grooming includes the trimming of the hair, and is usually done in tandem with bathing or directly after but does not need to happen quite as frequently, although you are welcome to do so if you would like. Bathing helps you check in on your Labradoodle, maintain their coat from tangling, and keeps them healthy and clean. Labradoodles should be bathed every 2 to 3 weeks but can go up to 4 or 5 weeks depending on the time of year and their other grooming habits. For example, a dog will shed more in the fall and spring as he or she prepares for the cold or hot weather respectively; you will want to bathe him or her more during this time. Bathing your Labradoodle regularly helps you take care of their hair and also allows you to inspect all areas of their body. You will want to take into consideration the amount of shedding happening as well as the amount of outside time your Labradoodle is getting. If it is a high shedding season, you will want to bathe and groom your Labradoodle more frequently to assist in the shedding process. Similarly, when they spend a lot of time outdoors they get dirtier with sweat, mud, pollen, or sticks and need a more regular grooming routine as well. Since a Labradoodle coat repels dirt anyway, this should not be difficult. Simply follow the standard guidelines, and you should be fine. Labradoodle puppies actually need less bathing than full-grown Labradoodles, except in the case of visible dirt. When a Labradoodle puppy is developing his or her adult fur coat, his or her body will be attempting to regulate the oils that help to prevent dry skin among other concerns. Additionally, it is not until a dog has reached past the six- to eight-month range that his or her adult coat has become more water-resistant. Thus, as your Labradoodle puppy grows and plays, it is important to consider only bathing once per month or unless you can see visible dirt. If you are able to simply brush the dirt away, and your puppy does not have a strong odor, you may consider doing this to spread the bathing process out. Daily brushing is not necessary but will make the scheduled grooming less intensive. Labradoodles are pretty playful dogs all throughout their lifetime, but this may be especially true during their puppy years. Therefore, you may find that your Labradoodle puppy tends to roll around in the dirt more than he or she will in later years. If this is the case, then the basic brushing or rinsing method may be preferable to bathing weekly. Many people wonder when it is safe to first bathe a puppy. Puppies can be bathed as soon as they are ready and able to go home. Keep in mind, though, that bathing a puppy can be a scary process for them, so you will want to consider a few tricks to make the process more fun. For example, you may bathe them in a smaller bin than a large white tub, run the water prior to baths so that the initial process is not as loud, and provide a treat before and after they complete a job well done in the bath. By creating a safe and fun environment and reflecting an exciting personality for them to mirror, your Labradoodle will have a better likelihood of enjoying bath time from the start. How often you groom your Labradoodle will largely depend on your lifestyle and preferences. Many Labradoodles do not need to be fully groomed more than four times per year. You can minimize full shaves by trimming more regularly before a full shave is needed. Keep an eye out for signs of wax buildup and excessive ear hair; these may be indications of ear mites or disease. You put the solution into each ear, massage it for seconds, and then wipe it out using a tissue. Check with your vet for tips on loose hair removal and which solution to use. Labradoodles have a thick, curly type of coat which means it will take longer to bathe them in comparison to other dogs with straight or thinner coat types. Choosing when you will bathe your Labradoodle, as well as having all of your bathing tools ready in advance is important for a successful bath. Do not expect to be done in a few minutes like you would with a short-haired or small dog. One thing to note is that if you want your Labradoodle to have time outside afterward for drying purposes or just to help them be comfortable before bed, you should aim for mid-day so the sun is out and they have plenty of drying time. Otherwise, you may choose to dry them with a towel or blow dryer if they will let you do so. Keep in mind, though, that many dogs are scared of loud noises, so your Labradoodle may take some warming up to a hairdryer if this is the option you choose to go with. Knowing What You Need Getting the right products and equipment is very important for bathing your Labradoodle. Below, I will include a section on great shampoos and conditioners to use with your furry friend. If you are comfortable just using your regular tub, you will not really need much more. Just a couple of towels and maybe a hairdryer for drying as well as a good slicker brush to detangle after will be the essentials! Ideally, you will have a hose or removable showerhead so that you can rinse it easier. If you decide that you would rather use something other than a regular tub, you may need access to other tools to help make this process go smoothly. You may choose to use a bin for them to stand in and a bucket to transport water for rinsing purposes. By choosing something that will require less effort on your part, you will be more accessible to your dog and make this process a fun and routine experience for him or her. The Process in the Bath for your Labradoodle Acclimate Your Labradoodle and Rinse The first thing you will need to do is get your Labradoodle used to the bath and showerhead. A bath is not something that a dog has naturally been bred to understand, so it takes a little coaching and familiarizing on your part. Many dogs quickly acclimate to the process, but it is helpful if you are there encouraging them along the way both in practice and in attitude. To help acclimate your Labradoodle to the bath, put a little water in the bottom of the tub and allow them to stand in it. Making sure it is warm is a good idea to get them a positive first impression. This can be done in a quiet and calm fashion to show your Labradoodle that this is nothing to be scared of or dreaded. After you have gotten them more comfortable with their surroundings the tub plus a small amount of water , try turning on the showerhead or hose attachment while petting them. Let them see it is not harmful and allow them to get used to the noise and feeling. Again, your calming presence and helpful comfort will be helpful if they are more fearful of the bath or bathing devices. Add Products and Check on Their Skin Once you are able to get them fully rinsed off as in there is no visible dirt on the fur and their coat is entirely wet , you will want to lather them with the product of your choice. Please ensure that this product is safe for your dog by checking with your vet or by using products that are designed for your fur baby. When you are lathering them with the suds, it is best to use your hands to do this so that you can feel around under the coat on the skin for any problems such as lumps, bumps, or parasitic ticks. Regularly feeling them including during bath time will help you to detect ticks or abnormalities earlier on and could save your Labradoodle from experiencing much worse pains. This is considered more of a preventative health approach than a reactive one. Keep in mind it is good to avoid ears on Labradoodles when rinsing and using products. Their floppy, large ears are prone to infections and issues. By using your hands to rinse and wash them, you will have much more control over the areas of the body that receive treatment. As they may be excited and moving about more freely, you can help to show them how to stay calm by holding them lovingly as you rinse them. It will be important for you to consider wearing clothes that you do not mind getting wet or sudsy so that you can feel comfortable providing whatever support your pup may need during bath time. Rinse and Maybe Repeat After lathering your Labradoodle with shampoo and inspecting by rustling your fingers through his or her fur, you should thoroughly rinse them off. You will want to make sure to use the hose or showerhead to get all areas of them thoroughly rinsed off. Be sure that there are no more bubbles or suds that are coming off from their hair as you complete the process. This is particularly important because leaving in shampoo by accident can cause worse tangling after the bath. So, rather than helping in the grooming process, this can actually hurt their fur and can become painful for them. Additionally, this can cause the next bath and grooming time to be much more difficult for you as you will have to untangle more fur than you would have had you just rinsed your dog off completely the first time. Drying Drying the coat of a Labradoodle is no easy task! If you know anyone with thick, curly hair or if that is you in this case , then that person can absolutely verify that drying their hair is likely the lengthiest part of the hair maintenance process. When drying off a Labradoodle, you can expect to go through large towels during this. You will want to use towels that have a higher absorbency, but they do not have to specifically be designed for use with a dog. Using a hairdryer if your pup will let you can improve drying time significantly! Many dogs get very excited positively or negatively by loud noises such as hairdryers. If your dog is positively excited about the hairdryer, you will want to hold them more firmly while you dry them off- though be sure that this is still considered a fun activity for your pup. If they are negatively excited by the loud hairdryer, be sure to warn them before you turn it on, calmly approach them, and keep the intervals of use short. Take extra care to dry their ears, using tissue or cotton, to make sure they do not have water caught in there for long. It is important to note that just like humans should not cram a Q-tip into the ear canal as this can actually push and pack wax and other substances further into the canal , you will want to follow the same precautions for your dog. Wipe off any surface of the ear that is visible to the human eye, but do not go any further. Allowing tangles to sit can cause them to become much worse — and the last thing you want is to end up at a groomer after spending time and effort attempting to do this on your own. Similar to human hair, one of the best things you can do is to use a thick bristle comb on the fur while it is still wet. This will ensure that the tangles are removed thoroughly without breaking or damaging the hair. You can find thick bristle combs specifically designed for dogs, or you can even just use one that is designed for human hair as long as you remain cautious and aware of your dog during the grooming process. Brushing with a thin bristle brush or comb before they are dry can cause their hair to break or come out more easily, so waiting to brush them is the best option here. If you are going to attempt to do this on your own, this is also the best time to trim them as well. If you notice they need it and have learned how to do so without causing harm to your dog there are several areas you can learn online then taking off a bit of length can be a great thing for them and you. If you are unfamiliar with the trimming process or do not have the right tools, it is important to take your dog to a professional groomer instead of attempting this and accidentally harming your furry friend. This would absolutely delay their enjoyment of bath and grooming time. Then, the owner can attempt in a small capacity on areas instead of the entire coat that he or she feels comfortable prior to the groomer trimming the rest, and then eliminate the groomer completely. When considering purchasing a shampoo and conditioner for your Labradoodle, it is critical to remember that you must find one that is designed for doggy fur. Sometimes, human baby shampoos can be used on dogs, but it is best to purchase one that is designed specifically for use with animals. Here are a few to consider: 1. Ph Balanced! Made In The Usa! Buy With Confidence! Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site s , as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product. One of the things that I love about using this brand of shampoo is the fact that it makes untangling so much easier afterward. I am not positive as to why this is the case, although I assume it has something to do with the oatmeal. Either way, it definitely feels great for their fur. Healthy Breeds Pet Shampoo is a great product that is also economical. This brand is a great, safe choice if you are looking for a shampoo to try out for the first time! They do not require frequent baths because too much bathing can strip away necessary oils in their skin and fur. If your Labradoodle has a curly coat, you probably take them to the groomer on occasion for a trim, and they can be washed there. However, as any dog owner knows, dogs love to roll around in gross things, and your playful pup may not shy away from a mud puddle. Dogs are the same way. Also, when long fur gets wet, it will stretch more when you pull on it, resulting in rips and tears that will make their coat look worse. Let your dog test the water before you turn on the shower head or start dumping it on them. The last thing you want to do is create an aversion to bath time. Labradoodles tend to enjoy water, so they are likely to be fine in the bath. Choose the right products There are so many dog shampoos and conditioners on the market. It can be hard to choose which one is best for your Labradoodle. With this breed, simple products without a lot of scents or colors may be best. While the Labradoodle is considered to be a hypoallergenic dog, this does not mean that the dog cannot suffer from allergies. Labradoodles are prone to environmental allergies, which can extend to grooming products. If your shampoo makes your dog itchy and uncomfortable, they will probably scratch themselves excessively, which can cause skin problems. Also look for products that are non-toxic, because it is hard to stop your dog from licking himself. Look for a gentle shampoo, perhaps even one that is made for dogs with allergies. The goal is to remove the dirt and bad odors, not completely strip their skin and coat of necessary oils. There are also shampoos on the market that are designed to make white coats appear whiter. If your white Labradoodle looks yellow or discolored, you may want to try one of those shampoos. Conditioners are also available for dogs with especially dry coats, but they are not necessary for bathing. We use Madden pin brushes on our labradoodles and have found this brush to be excellent quality. If you catch them in play mode during the day, you will only be reinforcing that brushing time is something to get all riled up about. Nail Clipping Clipping their nails is also a good exercise to do when you find them tired out. They tend to care a lot less about things. You can start by just clipping the nails on one paw. This way your pup learns this is quick and no big deal. It also gives you the opportunity to practice this exercise 4 days in a row, rather than once and then having to wait for them to grow again. When clipping, clip just the tip of the nail where it starts to curve downward, holding the nail clippers parallel to the bottom of the paw. Be careful not to clip too much, otherwise it will hurt and the nail will bleed. Lean towards clipping little bits more often than trying to get a lot off all at once. Ear Cleaning Ear cleaning is something that labradoodles need since they have those long ears that trap and hold in moisture. Check their ears every few weeks and if you notice they look dirty, then get a cotton ball or makeup remover pad, etc. Never push anything down in the ear, you could damage the ear and cause your puppy pain. Do the other side, and finish with an ear drying powder. In fact, over bathing can harm this quality in their coat, and actually cause you to need to bathe more often. If they get dirty, let them dry and simply brush the dirt right out. It is good to get them used to getting wet though, and when you do use shampoo, we recommend a tearless shampoo specifically designed for dogs as their PH balance is different than humans. A good minute walk daily will meet this need your new family member has. Up until then, their joints are developing and jogging on pavement would not be good for their joints. However, this does not mean you have to limit their activity. Running across the yard chasing a ball at their own pace and will is good for their developing body, and talking walks through the neighborhood is an excellent way to meet their exercise needs. Labradoodles are a wonderful dog breed and opening up your home to one of these pups is going to bring so much joy into your life. With that being said, Labradoodles also require a considerable amount of maintenance and upkeep — with bathing being an easy thing to overlook. How to bathe a Labradoodle To bathe a Labradoodle, start by brushing them to remove any loose dirt, set your bath water to a lukewarm temperature, and gently help your dog inside. Lastly, dry your Labradoodle with a towel and blowdryer. A Labradoodle combines the incredible personality traits of the Labrador Retriever and the Poodle. This makes Labradoodles both unique and expensive , as you get to have the playful nature of a Labrador combined with the intelligence and cleverness of a Poddle, which is why so many pet owners are hopping on the Doodle trend. However, this kind of pup needs to be approached with careful consideration as it has unique qualities that make it stand out among other dogs. One of the first characteristics you will notice with your Labradoodle is that your pup has a different type of coat. Unlike most dog breeds that have fur, a Labradoodle has hair, which means that you need to bathe it properly if you want to keep its coat healthy. To help you understand this further, we are going to take you through our 5 step Labradoodle bath time routine. After extensively researching Labradoodle maintenance, I have been able to gather enough information to determine how to properly bathe this breed. My research has shown me that you need to follow the Labradoodle bathing procedure carefully if you want to get the best results from their coat. Keep in mind, you can always get your dog groomed by a professional groomer. Depending on who you ask, you will get a few different answers on this but as a general rule of thumb, you should bathe your pup once per month. With that being said, each Labradoodle is different and you may find that you need to bathe your dog more or less often depending on its lifestyle and environment. If your Labradoodle has a pretty stable routine at home and goes out for casual walks in urban areas, then you can probably get away with bathing your dog every 5 to 6 weeks. On the other hand, if you have a very active Labradoodle out in the countryside or simply one that tends to get messy at dog parks, you may need to wash your pup as often as every 3 weeks. You also need to consider that there is a difference between bathing and rinsing. Bathing is a thorough cleaning process where you give your Labradoodle a deep wash that targets its coat fully, as well as its skin. Rining is simply washing off your dog after they get a little bit muddy or dirty. When you bathe your Labradoodle, you want to do it routinely and systematically so that you can keep its coat as healthy as possible. Whereas rinsing is something that you can do quite regularly when needed — with some owners giving their dog a rinse multiple times a week after rugged play sessions at the park. Before you commit to a routine bathing schedule for your Labradoodle, you should try to observe its habits and behavior so that you can find an optimal timeframe that suits your pup. As we said, each Labradoodle is a bit different and you should decide on a schedule for your dog based on its lifestyle. Labradoodle Bathing Supplies Before you can begin bathing your pup, you first need to gather all of the right supplies for the job. Simply spraying your Labradoodle with your backyard hose is not going to do the trick. These are the bathing supplies that you need to get before you can start washing your dog. Given that this breed does not have fur, you need to buy a shampoo that is specifically meant for hair. There are a lot of different shampoo products out there and it is easy to feel overwhelmed when you consider your options. Some products have been made just for Labradoodle coats, which are going to deliver the best end results. Check Price One thing you always want to watch out for are shampoos that contain a lot of additives and chemicals. Much like with human hair, a Labradoodles coat is going to benefit most from natural ingredients — so read labels carefully and try to rely on trusted brands. Some products have been known to cause skin irritations, which is something you want to avoid at all costs. Whenever picking out a new shampoo, always do a test first to see how your dog responds. If you see that the coat is healthy afterward and that their skin is not irritated, you should be good to go. The coat of a Labradoodle will require a thorough drying process, which is why it is best to have at least two towels handy before you begin washing. A blow dryer with multiple settings is also recommended so that you can expose your Labradoodle to it slowly, which will keep them from getting frightened and intimidated. Exfoliated Dog Bathing Gloves Your hands should suffice for bathing your Labradoodle but by using exfoliated dog bathing gloves , you will find that the cleaning process is much more thorough. These gloves were designed for cleaning dog coats and having them on can make a huge difference in how effective the bathing process is. They are texturized to remove more hair, which will ensure a minimal amount of shedding, and they will also help get rid of any dead skin on your Labradoodle. This dog breed has a very specific type of coat that needs to be looked after carefully, as it can easily get messy if you forget to keep a consistent cleaning schedule. These are the steps that you need to follow to bathe your pup. Step 1: Hair Brushing Before you begin washing your Labradoodle with water, you want to get as much dirt and debris out of its coat as possible by using a brush Having a reliable brush for your Labradoodle is going to be a must for maintaining its hair — regardless of washing. You will be amazed by how much cleaning time you can save by doing this properly. In addition to dirt and debris, you also want to remove any loose hair from the coat, as this is also something that will hinder the bathing process. With that being said, we always find that it is better to take care of as much of the prep-work beforehand so that you can avoid a rough transition when the time comes to bathe your pup. The first thing that you want to do is make sure that all of your necessary cleaning supplies are nearby so that you can easily reach them. You want to make your Labradoodle as comfortable as possible when getting bathed which is why you should set the temperature of your water before throwing them into the tub. Lukewarm is generally the most ideal temperature setting for washing a dog. Step 3: Help Your Dog Get Into the Bath Again, each pup reacts differently to getting washed and you want to make the experience as pleasant as possible for them. If your dog is willing to hop right in for their routine bath, then great. However, not all Labradoodles are like this and may feel intimidated or dislike getting washed altogether. You can either usher your pup into the bath so they can hop in on their own or you can gently pick them up and place them inside. You must approach this with care so that they are not frightened by the idea of getting clean — especially if they are puppies and still getting used to the idea of bathing. Once they are inside, make sure that they feel comfortable and secure before you begin cleaning. Allow 30 seconds to a minute of adjustment time without the water on so that they can gauge their environment. This is always a good time for a pet, a pat, and a treat to reassure them that they are in good hands. You should be able to get a substantial amount of cleaning done with water alone, which will wash out the majority of the dirt, dust, and any kind of debris that is embedded into their coat. After you have gone through with the initial rinse, turn the water off if possible especially if they find it unpleasant. Go through their entire coat gently yet firmly and scrub all the way down to their skin. A lot of dogs actually enjoy this part of the bathing process, as it is essentially a massage. Once the product has been properly applied, let it soak into the coat for at least a couple of minutes. You can then rinse out the shampoo while giving them another quick scrub, which should remove any remaining dirt or debris. Given the curly and shaggy nature of their hair, a quick pass-through with a towel is not going to be enough to properly dry them. With your Labradoodle still inside the bath, use a towel to remove as much water as possible from their coat. You will find that the town soaks up quite a lot and it will likely become wet very quickly. Having a second towel handy is always a good idea when drying your Labradoodle, as you are going to need it. Now, that the initial drying process is done, use a blowdryer to remove the remaining moisture. Dogs typically do not like blowdryers at first and may even be afraid of them. Get your Labradoodle used to the blowdryer by gently exposing them to it. Use it from a further distance on a light setting and gradually work your way closer. Helping them get accustomed to the bathing and drying process will make it easier when they are bigger. The specific method used to bathe a Labradoodle will vary from one dog to the next, because their coat types can vary significantly. Some may have the tight curls of the Poodle, whilst others have straighter, thick Lab coats. Is Labradoodle Bathing Important? While many Labradoodle dogs are easier to manage than other breeds or mixes thanks to their low-shedding fur, they still need routine grooming. And yes, this sometimes includes a scheduled bath. Labradoodles are energetic, playful, and fun-loving breeds that love spending time outdoors and in water. And, playtime outside almost always involves some splashing in puddles and rolling in dirt. When this happens, your doodle dog will need a bath! This could also be the case if your pet develops a skin condition that needs to be treated with a medicated shampoo. So, you may find the event happening more often than you first expected. Even if you take your dog to the groomer regularly, there will be times where you need to clean them after a particularly messy walk. This is especially true if you have a first- or second-generation Labradoodle crossbreed. Their fur sheds less and produces less allergy inducing dander than many other types of dogs. All dogs shed and shed most during shedding season, including the Labradoodle. Along with being low shedding, the Labradoodle also has a dirt-repellent coat that tends to be much easier to manage. You can begin bathing your Labradoodle once he reaches three months of age. Try using a quality shampoo and conditioner that is designed for puppies. This is a part of socialization and can help make future bath times much easier. Once you begin bathing your Labradoodle, you may be tempted to do it more often than needed. But, over-bathing your Labradoodle can actually be damaging to their skin and fur. Once your Labradoodle reaches at least three months of age, you can begin bathing him once every two to three weeks. Doing so could have a negative impact on their skin and coat. All dogs produce natural oils that help aid in skin and coat health. Over-washing them can hinder this natural production of oils they need in order to keep their fur healthy. Overproduction or underproduction of these oils can cause an increase in skin problems. Including allergies, dry skin, patchy fur, and can even increase shedding. Luckily, Labradoodles are not known to carry much doggy odor. Still, if you want to help keep your Labradoodle smelling fresh between bath time, you always have the option of using grooming wipes or coconut oil. Some owners find this helps to reduce dry skin, soothe allergies, and keep their Labradoodle smelling lovely. However, be aware there is currently little evidence in scientific studies for these claims. You can then gently rub in your chosen shampoo, working it through their curls gently. Make sure the shampoo is fully rinsed out before moving onto the conditioner. Once again, make sure all conditioner is fully washed out afterwards. Dry them off with a towel at first, gently patting them dry and squeezing water out of the fur. Use your hand to soften the intensity of air. Tips for Getting Your Labradoodle Used to Bathtime Getting your Labradoodle puppy comfortable with being bathed at an early age can make all the difference when it comes to routine bath time. We should note that most dogs do not like being bathed. Even dogs who love water often tuck their tails when it comes time for a good wash. That said, you can help make bath time easier for your Labradoodle by starting early and introducing them to water gently. Use treats and praise to introduce them to all elements of the bath including: The bathtub.

How Is Skylit Different? There are a number of ways that Skylit Labradors are different from other Labradors and breeders out there. Each of their pedigrees was unique. Several were the sons or daughters of show Champions. Others came from strong working lines. Skylit Labradors pedigree lines are unique to New Zealand. At Skylit Labradors I have the ability to produce a range of different shades — the darkest and lightest of yellows, the traditional black, chocolate, and yellow colours, as well as dilute versions of those colours. I do not breed strictly for colour but am aware that people have personal preferences. Health, temperament and fit-for-purpose are my primary focus with colour next on the list. I love developing their special traits and sharing their abilities with the community. I have a purpose and goal for each litter that I produce as well. That purpose may be to produce a litter of fantastic family members. Or it may be to produce great candidates for therapy or service dog work. It may be to produce a litter that will work well for active families, competitors or weekend hunters. It may be to find the next best scent dog candidate. I look for the natural tendencies in my Labs… what they gravitate toward… and that is where they are likely to excel. This in turn allows me to make better matches for those looking to add a Labrador puppy to their family. Life at Skylit If you want a Lab that will live outside or in your barn, then by all means, get a puppy that started life outside or in a barn. If you plan on keeping your dog in a kennel, then be sure that its parents were raised that way as well. Skylit Labs begin life immersed in both dog and human family life. They begin life in our shared home on 40 acres in the Manawatu. The dogs spend their days lounging around and playing with each other, me or friends but they also go on playdates, hang out at cafes, have visitors over, plod around the property, go for swims in the pond, lay by the fire, curl up on the couch, go on road trips across country, have sleepovers, and regularly run often boring errands with me. Health Testing I am a strong advocate of health testing. My Labs are genetically health tested for the common diseases found within the Labrador breed as well as several other diseases. Their elbows are also assessed by OFA. Hip and elbow evaluations help me to ensure I am making good breeding choices and reducing the risk that offspring will develop hip or elbow dysplasia due to a genetic predisposition. Note: No breeder can guarantee that their puppies will not develop hip or elbow dysplasia as both conditions can be caused by a mix of genetic and environmental factors. Breeding for good health is a non-negotiable rule for each of my litters I plan. What that means is that I feed what I feel is the most applicable species appropriate diet for canines — raw meat, bones and organs. They primarily eat beef, chicken, fish, lamb, duck, venison as well as the occasional quail, rabbit and wallaby. They are fed twice each day. Raw feeding plays a major role. The Puppy program Pre-Birth Producing a great litter begins long before the breeding takes place. It begins with properly assessing your dogs to ensure they are fit to breed. Are they healthy? Have they fully recovered from any previous pregnancies? Are they physically mature? Are they mentally mature? What are their weaknesses? What are their strengths? Do the potential mother and father compliment each other? The care of the mum-to-be before and during her pregnancy is paramount to a successful whelping. I have been blessed with wonderful mums and I hope that continues for as long as I breed! By taking the best care of them, they take amazing care of their babies. My key role in the early days is to support the new mum. That way she can do an exceptional job whelping, raising and nurturing her babies as life intended. Weeks Once the babies are born, their weight is tracked daily for the first two weeks to ensure proper growth. Each puppy wears a different colour collar so that I can be aware of each puppy individually. This helps with things such as fireworks, children crying, doorbells, thunderstorms, and much much more. Around 3. At 4 weeks of age the puppies begin separating themselves from mum and start exploring the outside. At this age the door is removed from their cubby so that the puppies can come and go as they please to use their potty boxes or to begin exploring outside. Weeks By 5 weeks of age the puppies are spending full days outside in their puppy play yard. Their mum is primarily nursing them in the afternoons and I am providing meals for them. Typically my mums finish nursing around 6 weeks of age but the puppies still have much to learn before they are ready to leave Skylit! This consists of my removing the potty boxes and putting the door back onto their cubby. Now at night time they are placed into their cubby and I will let them out through the night as needed. Within nights the puppies are sleeping through the night without needing to go out and they are alerting me if they DO need to go out to go toilet during the night. At this point I begin separation conditioning by initially splitting the litter into two cubbies and then three cubbies etc. I have found this process makes the departure from Skylit so much easier on the puppies AND their new families. Puppies are settled in their crates which is especially important for those puppies that fly to their new families. Other key events happening during this time period include a variety of visitors interacting with the puppies, exploration walks around the pasture and main house yard, as well as water play in the puppy pool. The puppy play yard adjoins the adult dog yards so the puppies frequently have doggy visitors as well. The puppies have their full vet checks based upon when they will be leaving Skylit and that involves their first car trip into town and lots and lots of cuddles at the vet clinic! Puppy Placement The Right Fit Labs vary considerably in their build, energy level and natural tendencies. Some live to retrieve, others to swim, and still others to cuddle up on the couch. Others are happy-go-lucky. Some are incredibly smart and love to learn. Others… not so much. Some are food driven. Some are toy driven. Some have big thick blocky bodies and some are built like extreme athletes. Like humans, each Lab is an individual. There are some traits and tendencies that tend to pass from parents to offspring. There are also signs of what that puppy may be like as an adult that begin developing from a very young age. As a Breeder I strive to get to know my puppies and look for how they are similar or different from their parents or other puppies I have raised. I have an application process for my puppies. They are not placed on a first come, first served basis. Instead I look for families who will embrace that puppy as a member of their family, loving and caring for it as fiercely as they would any family member. But my diligence is to your benefit. If approved for a Skylit Labrador, you have an advocate at your side that will do all in her power to ensure your puppy is a good fit for your family. I made a promise to my girls when I started breeding that I would only ever place their puppies in environments that would be at least as good, if not better than, the life I could give them if they remained here. New Family Guide In order to help each new family through the process of adding a Skylit Lab to their family, I have developed a step-by-step guide for my families. As new questions arise, I continue to add to the New Family Guide so that it can hopefully be a wonderful resource for each new Skylit Lab family! While the Sales Agreement may change slightly depending on the litter, the terms and conditions are fairly consistent. This is to protect the integrity of my program. I have invested countless hours and money into building my breeding program. It requires little to no thought and very little if any investment to throw two dogs together in a backyard and produce a litter. That is not how I breed and those are not the type puppies I produce. Breeding in that manner can do irreversible damage to the reputation of my program and its future success. If a family should desire a puppy from their Skylit Lab, I encourage them to reach out to me and we can look at whether it may be possible in partnership. This is due to several of my foundation Labs carrying the Dilute gene. While other kennel clubs around the world are more accepting of this gene, Dogs NZ has chosen to not permit the registry of dilute-coat-coloured Labradors nor any litter that had the genetic potential to produce dilute-coat-coloured Labradors. To learn more about this colour gene and the controversy related to it, click HERE. I register all litters with Dogs NZ that meet their dilute gene requirements. I do not breed to any Labradors that are not kennel club registered unless they were born here at Skylit and I can therefore be assured of their pedigree. If at any time you can no longer maintain or no longer wish to maintain custody of your Skylit Lab, they are to be returned to Skylit. They will either remain at Skylit for the rest of their life or should I happen to find a well-suited home for them, I will place them. If there are any proceeds from their re-homing I will return them to you. You can see a sample copy of the guarantee HERE. My puppy families know that they can reach out to me at any time, night or day, days a year. I take my commitment to my Labradors and their families very seriously. I WANT to know if they are struggling. I may be able to help. I am not a vet but my experience with my own Labs, all the puppies I have raised, my puppy families experiences and also the research and learning I do gives me a unique advantage to possibly be able to provide insight into what may be going on should a challenge arise. The same goes for training. I am not a professional trainer but I am happy to share what I know and perhaps it can help or perhaps I can recommend a resource that may be able to help. I truly care. The Skylit Labrador family is a community of puppy families across New Zealand, the UK and Australia that have one key aspect in common: They all have added a Skylit Lab to their family. They very likely followed your puppy from birth, may have a relative to your puppy, and have been in your shoes with raising their own Skylit Lab. Given that they may have a relative to your puppy or even a littermate! Many Skylit families reach out to others in their area for play dates as well. There are Skylit families who are more than happy to watch your Skylit pup for you should you be going away on holiday. Here we share in the joys and challenges of raising our Labradors. It is a devoted group that is truly interested in you and your puppy. We also have regular social get togethers with our dogs and even Skylit road trips! Being part of the Skylit family is a wonderful and unique benefit of adding one of my puppies to your family. Manawatu, New Zealand. They currently are:- Hip and elbow Radiographed and scored by a recognised panel DNA test for PRA [ or both parents DNA clear ] So this means if you breed a puppy that is by a clear over a carrier that meaning it can only be clear or carrier you can then put it to a clear dog A current eye certificate. Owners should not allow any of their dogs to roam at large or to cause a nuisance to neighbours or those carrying out official duties. Owners should ensure that their dogs should wear properly tagged collars and should be kept fully leashed or under effective control when away from home. Owners will clean up after their dogs in public places or anywhere their dogs are exhibited. Owners should agree without reservation that any veterinary surgeon performing an operation on their dogs, which could alter the natural confirmation of the animal, should report such an operation to the New Zealand Kennel Club. Owners should not agree to breed from a bitch in any way which is deleterious to the bitch or the breed. Owners should take care to ensure that when selling dogs there is a reasonable expectation of a happy and healthy life and will help with the rehoming of a dog if the initial circumstances change. Owners should provide written details of all dietary requirements and give guidance concerning responsible ownership when placing dogs in a new home. Owners should not sell any dog to commercial dog wholesalers, retail pet dealers or directly or indirectly allow dogs to be given as a prize or donation in a competition of any kind. Owners will not knowingly misrepresent the characteristics of the breed nor falsely advertise dogs nor mislead any person regarding the quality of the dog. Owners will ensure that all relevant New Zealand Kennel Club documents are provided to the new owners when selling or transferring a dog. Advises new owners about the NZKC Register that the dog is recorded on and explains any endorsements that may be applied to the puppy and why they have been applied. Permanently identifies breeding stock by DNA profile and microchip or tattoo. Makes use of health screening schemes as they become available , relevant to their breed, on all breeding stock. Ensures their puppies are well socialised before going to their new homes. Provides written advice to new owners on feeding, worming, socialization, exercise and future training of their puppy. Provides a written record from a veterinarian on the immunisation measures taken to date on the puppy. Is available to give reasonable post sale advice to the new owner. Provides the new owner with a Sale and Purchase Agreement, detailing any of the endorsements that may have been placed on the dog. Advises the new owner about the requirement and recommendations that apply to them as an Accredited Breeder and also make the buyer aware of the NZKC Complaint Process. Provides written advice, in the Puppy Sales Wallet on the continuation of socialisation, exercise and future training. Important — The Labrador Club is not liable or responsible for any puppy bought from a breeder promoted on the Labrador Club website. If you do feel that a breeder has not honoured the above declaration please correspond with the Club in writing. The Labrador Club does not guarantee the service of breeders on our Breeders page and the buyer should review and take responsibility for all contracts with the breeder. The Labrador Club does have a Code of Ethics and we strongly suggest you read it. Display Email Mistybrook Labradors are excited to announce that we are expecting a very special litter very early September !! Litter of 7 has arrived, all black! Our main interest is in producing happy, healthy, sound and typical Labrador Retrievers with exceptional temperaments. We breed, exhibit and compete with the dogs we love that are raised in the family environment. Our aim is to build a distinctive line of Labrador Retrievers we can be proud to take anywhere, do anything with and relish in the beauty and love at the other end of the lead. Puppies going off to their new homes will be DOGSNZ Registered, fully health and vet checked, vaccinated, microchipped and will have already started to have been integrated into our family environment. Generous Puppy Feeding Packs will also be available as well as feeding instructions. Jan and Peter Wallace are always available for any questions or advice. Extensive written instructions and advice on puppy Labrador rearing within the Puppy Pack. Visitors are always welcome at Mistybrook Labradors. For all further details, you can ring or email mistybrooklabs gmail. Display Email We David, Anne and son Andrew have been involved with Labradors since the early 80's - shooting over them, showing and occasionally breeding. We are a small kennel who have imported several from England and Australia, one from Sweden and semen from both England and Australia, all in the interests of breeding the best we can. We breed to the highest ethical standards and only from parents who have acceptable results from the health tests required by Dogs NZ. We breed primarily for us to have something for the show ring, although some do not make the grade! Despite our focus on showing most of our pups are sold as pets to approved homes. We have some yellow and some black bitches no dogs available for stud at present and typically produce pups in those colours too. We do not usually breed chocolates. We very occasionally have older dogs available for re-homing to approved homes. Please contact us if you would like to discuss buying an adorable Charing puppy, or taking advantage of a Lab who is a bit older. PS We are delighted that we have a litter of yellow puppies expected at the beginning of October. We are happy to take enquiries from people who want family pets.

These puppies have a one-year health guarantee against genetic defects and are given specific nutrition information to ensure that they remain healthy. All of their Frenchies are AKC-registered and have a good temperament to ensure your puppies will also take after them. It is safe to say that all of their puppies are socialized and have a good temperament to fit a family at home. Cardin French Bulldogs Cardin French Bulldogs have been breeding Frenchies since , and all of them are brought up around the rest of the animals and family. Each litter is produced yearly and bred on a twenty-acre property with horses, hens, dogs, and children, so the Frenchies are guaranteed to be socialized. Harleyville French Bulldogs The puppies bred by Harvey French Bulldogs are raised and socialized by a loving family in Minnesota, where they are handled daily. All of their puppies are raised with the intention of making them great companions for anyone looking for company. Previously, they raised Boxers but switched to Frenchies over eight years ago. Harleyville French Bulldogs are happy to answer any questions about their puppies and will always endeavor to respond within twenty-four to forty-eight hours. They have a thorough application process to obtain a puppy from them to ensure that their puppies go to the right forever home. They have a health guarantee in place and are microchipped to ensure that the puppies can be found if lost. Along with these elements, they offer breeder support and a puppy pack with a few more additions to ensure your puppy is comfortable in their new home. All their puppies are home raised and are exposed to children and households from a young age to ensure they are socialized. All of their puppies are examined and given shots by a licensed and certified veterinarian, who will also provide health checks to ensure they are completely healthy. They have been working with Frenchies since , and have also worked with show homes and have been breeding since then. They will conduct OFA health testing on their Frenchies to ensure they are as healthy as possible. Overall, their desire is to ensure that everyone has a Frenchie as a pet that is healthy, so that they can live a long life with you and your family. Their main goal is to breed their Frenchies with good health, temperament, and color. All of the puppies born to them are treated like part of the family and are socialized from a young age. Each litter has a waiting list, and all puppies have a health guarantee. However, this is also a great way to meet the adult Frenchies and understand their temperaments, especially to gauge what your pup is like when they reach maturity. All of their Frenchies are health tested and are checked for over conditions that may affect them, and they have access to four generations of pedigree. All of their dogs are socialized from a young age, and they encourage you to pick them up as they do not ship them. They will not breed a litter unless it is guaranteed that they have families waiting for them, so recommend that you put in a deposit to guarantee a puppy from the litter. SweetHeart Frenchies All Frenchies from SweetHeart Frenchies are bred for their health, size, and standard, and all have a good temperament. This contains health info, instructions on raising your puppy, AKC limited registration, their pedigree, a one-year health guarantee, the veterinary record, puppy food, toys, a leash, a collar, and lifetime support from them. They also ensure that all of their Frenchies are microchipped and dewormed and have all of their shots done. Sweetheart Frenchies will also ensure that they socialize the puppies so that they have the right environments, and they will interview prospective homes to find the right forever homes for their Frenchies. All of these puppies are health checked and are up to date with any vaccinations that they need. Other articles of interest:. We now live in Becker MN. I am a True Color Breeder. No fad color or designer mix breeds. I take great pride in being a Preservation Breeder and do not breed Designer color or Hair coat Frenchies. We breed occasionally for our own show dogs. Our goal is to produce dogs that are both healthy and pleasing to the eye, meeting and exceeding the AKC French Bulldog standards. Our home raised, Minnesota French Bulldog puppies are exposed to children and a lot of household commotion so they are well socialized before leaving to live with a new family. Our puppies are examined and vaccinated by a Licensed and Certified Veterinarian to verify their health prior to adoption to a new family. Those not chosen to be show dogs are available as companion dogs. We welcome inquires about pet and show prospect puppies. We can also offer referrals to reputable AKC breeders with French Bulldog puppies for sale in our area. Please feel free to browse through our website for a sneak peak at our French Bulldogs and French Bulldog puppies for sale. All of our AKC French Bulldogs are accustomed to family life and will be a loving member of your family. We strive to produce top quality MN French Bulldogs. Many questions can be answered on this site. Check out the buttons and links to find out if a French Bulldog is the right new family pet for you.

Three years later, our daughter started raising and breeding white German Shepherd Dogs. She loved animals and also raised, broke, trained, and showed horses. Animals had always been her passion and of course, the whole family became involved. Our goal was not just to breed German Shepherd Dogs; we were committed to breeding only the best quality German Shepherd Dogs, which includes conformation, intelligence, temperament, and working ability. After our daughter passed away in , we continued her wonderful dog breeding. Because we have a farm, our dogs and puppies have plenty of room to run and romp. We are always striving to become better breeders by taking classes, going to seminars and lectures by professionals in our field. Richard Meadows spoke on Vaccines and Immunology. Mahana Bonebrake Mahana lives in the country with her husband and one of her sons near Springfield, Missouri in Rogersville. They are also animal lovers and chose German Shepherd Dogs for their loyalty and willingness to please their owners. Mahana is our good friend and business partner. All of our dogs and puppies are AKC registered and receive the highest quality medical and nutritional care. Every puppy comes with a Health Certificate from a licensed veterinarian. Their de-wormings and vaccinations are up to date. Puppies come with a medical record, one-year genetic health guarantee, and pedigree chart. The picture of puppies in the bathtub is a past litter of German Shepherd puppies from Robin Blue. They are all adults now and all have happy loving homes and awesome families they live with. I have been a German Shepherd breeder since .I have all colors black and tan, black and silver, black and red, bi-color, black, white, black and tan brindle, sable brindle, silver sable, tan sable, fawn, blue, liver, and red sable of German Shepherd puppies. I have German Shepherd puppies for sale as pets that are wonderful, loving, family protectors. I also have full working line German Shepherd puppies for sale that would do well in a working job, SCH, agility, therapy dog, search and rescue, or as a very energetic family member. They are all sweethearts. Feel free to call or email. I always enjoy meeting and talking to people that are interested in German Shepherd dogs, as I am. Thanks for your interest in my puppies. If you are interested in having one of my puppies be one of your new family members you will have to call me on the telephone and talk to me about the puppy. I love all my puppies and just try to match them up to the right homes. If you are interested in one of my puppies please call me at home or my cell is .I will return your call. If you have any questions about any of my puppies you are welcome to email me too. My email address is whitefamily semo. I only have one email address. So if you are interested in any of my puppies I look forward to talking to you on the phone. I am proud of all my puppies and their parents and always enjoy talking about them all.