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Post header Skip post header How much exercise does a Pug need? Pugs are playful and affectionate dogs who love being by your side. This makes them pawfect for people with families. How much exercise does an adult Pug need? Roughly 30 minutes in their daily routine should do the trick. There are many ways you can get your Pug to hit their exercise goals. And if you want to keep them mentally stimulated, swapping out a walk with some enrichment games can go a long way for them. But as owners, knowing exactly how much they need can be difficult. How much exercise does a Pug puppy need? The typical rule of thumb is that 5 minutes of formal exercise for each month your pup has been in this world is enough for them. This is because over-exercising them can cause their health issues to worsen, and affect their hips and knees causing hip dysplasia further down the line. Our app will even adjust their exercise goal for them as they grow. How much exercise does a senior Pug need? It may come as a surprise to people that dogs can become seniors as early as 8 years of age. Around this time you may notice your furry companion slowing down or having less interest in their games. How can I keep my Pug busy? Command training. This keeps your dog busy and helps with mental stimulation and has the added benefit of helping your pup with their training. You can start with more simple commands such as sit, wait and look, and work your way up to the more difficult ones like heel, rollover, and paw. Toys can be used in multiple ways and come in all shapes and sizes. From a dog-approved rope to play tug of war with, to a fluffy dinosaur for them to tear apart. Treat-release toys. These are particularly good because it involves no work on your part. Just fill them up and let your dog do the rest. No matter what type of exercise your furry friend does, PitPat is the perfect way to keep track. These dogs could be pawfect for you thanks to their low exercise needs. Single page Single page 10 best dog breeds for city living City life often means apartment living and you might think this would make owning a dog difficult. While it is sensible to avoid large dog breeds there are lots of smaller dog breeds will be perfectly happy living the high rise lifestyle. Caring for your Pug Pugs can be highly entertaining dogs due to their big personalities and clownish nature. They generally do well in family environments where they have lots of company all of the time as they love to spend time with everybody. Pugs and barking As with any dog, your Pug is likely to make noise in one form or another. How much your dog barks will be down to them as an individual. Training and socialisation When it comes to training Pugs, although they are a clever breed they can also be very strong willed. Training needs to be ongoing and firm but fair. You can start positive, reward-based training from day one, whether you get your Pug old or young. Exercise Pugs can be prone to gaining weight that can make breathing problems worse, so it is important to keep them active and avoid any weight gain. Your Pug will need up to an hour of exercise a day. This should include shorter walks, with extra playtime and lots of brain-stimulating activities. Several shorter walks throughout the day can help to stop them from becoming too tired or overheated, which is a great way to keep them active throughout the day. Keep a close eye on your Pug as they can tire easily due to their difficulties getting enough oxygen. As soon as you start to notice them struggling to breathe, stop and make sure they get enough of a rest. You will also need to avoid exercising them in the heat as this can cause even more problems since they can be at higher risk of heatstroke. Grooming Even though their coats are short, Pugs can still shed loads. Luckily, they tend to love being groomed as it means a lot of attention all on them. Pay close attention to the folds in their skin, as these are the perfect breeding ground for bacterial and fungal infections if left damp. You can teach your Pug from an early age to love tooth brushing and nail clipping so you can keep those pearly whites and paws in great condition. Pugs and children Pugs adore company and really love people of all ages. They often get on well with children, especially if the Pug loves to play. As with every breed, you should always teach children how to approach and play with dogs with care and kindness, to prevent any issues. Always supervise children and vulnerable people with your Pug and make sure you can recognise the signs of unhappiness or anxiety in your dog to help avoid any conflicts. Pugs and other pets Pugs are known for getting along well with other pets and dogs. Introductions still need to be done carefully, though, just in case. Good, kind training will also help them become well-rounded dogs that keep calm in new situations. Your vet or vet nurse will be able to tell you how much your dog should be eating. If you give your dog an occasional treat or use treats for training, remember to take this into account and reduce their daily food allowance. You should try to feed your dog at the same time every day to get them into a routine. Remember to leave a gap after eating and before exercising. Beware unusually cheap puppies as they could come from a puppy farm. These breeders must do extra health tests and meet higher standards for breeding. See our advice on what you need to know about flat faced pets and how to choose a healthier pedigree pet. Set-up costs Puppy vaccines — if you rescue a dog, some centres will vaccinate them for you. Remember that ongoing booster vaccinations will be needed to continue their immunity. Neutering — you should usually arrange for your dog to be neutered at around six months old, though your vet will be able to advise you exactly when is best. Check prices at your local practice as these will depend on your vet and where you live. Some rescue centres will have already neutered the dogs they rehome where appropriate. Equipment — including a collar and tags, lead, harness, dog beds, dog bowls, pet-safe toothpaste and toothbrushes, grooming brushes and toys. Keep in mind that all these will need to be replaced with wear or if your dog outgrows them! Ongoing costs Food. Preventive healthcare — budget for routine vet visits to help stop your dog getting ill and catching any problems early. They need annual check-ups, vaccinations and regular flea and worming treatments. Check if your vet offers a health care plan as this can help spread the cost throughout the year. Accessories — including lots of poo bags, replacing worn toys and grooming accessories, buying doggy toothpaste and any other extras they might need. Other costs Training — basic training is very important and dogs can benefit from formal classes. Some dogs may have, or develop, behavioural problems which might need professional management. Boarding — you may also need to budget for boarding or dog sitting costs if you are planning to go away from home on holiday. If you are having difficulty with veterinary costs, you can check if you are eligible for treatment at PDSA here. A group of Pugs is called a grumble! Pugs are an ancient breed, dating back to Ancient China where they were bred for Emperors. Pugs were bred to be companions, which is why they love people so much. Getting a Pug Do plenty of research before you get a Pug. Although they are loveable and friendly, they are sadly likely to get a lot of health issues more so than many other breeds. Rehoming centres There are plenty of rescue centres across the country where you may find a Pug. Breed-specific rescues specialising in Pugs are out there too. Good rescue centres should let you know of any existing health and behaviour problems. Breeders If you buy from a breeder, make sure your puppy will have been well socialised and have all necessary health checks and vaccinations. We recommend looking for a Kennel Club Assured breeder as they meet higher standards. Not sure if a Pug is the right pet for you? Pug Exercise Overview Exercising your Pug plays an essential role in long-term health and is a vital part of overall care. While you must take care when exercising your little guy or gal, by no means should you avoid it or be afraid of it. A sedentary Pug is an unhealthy Pug. The key is to find the right balance. The Benefits of Exercising a Pug There are many reasons to keep your Pug active: 1 It helps maintain muscle tone which in turn promotes good posture and proper support surrounding the hips and knees. Since this breed is prone to elbow dysplasia, Legg-Calve-Perthes and hip dysplasia, this is a very relevant benefit. Exercise Restrictions for Pugs Pugs can and should be exercised every day. However, there are some restrictions to keep in mind. You will want to avoid: 1 Excessive exercise when under 10 months old. This is a time of rapid growth and very excessive exercise can affect growth plates, the soft areas at the end of bones where cells continually divide, allowing bones to properly grow as the pup matures into his adult size. Once growth is complete, the plates close. If a puppy is put under too much physical stress, there can be damage to those plates which can lead to malformed or shortened limb s. Normal walking and play are not considered excessive. You will want to avoid lengthy full-out runs or forcing activity when a pup has reached his limit. This breed is prone to bloat. To help prevent this, avoid having your dog run around in the yard or taking a purposeful, brisk walk until one hour has passed after a meal. Pugs, being a brachycephalic breed, have some level of stenotic nares narrow nostrils and elongated palate soft tissue at the back of the root of the mouth partially blocks the windpipe. This can cause noisy breathing and it limits to what extent a Pug can endure physical activity. Heavy breathing is also an indication of heat stress that if not addressed can lead to heat stroke. During an exercise session, breaks should be taken every 15 minutes or so; but, should be halted if a Pug is struggling to catch their breath. When the temperature is soaring and especially if the air is very humid this can exacerbate breathing issues. Activity may need to be scaled back or brought inside. Age to Start Exercising a Pug If you just brought home a new puppy, you may be very eager to start taking your Pug for walks around the neighborhood or head out to the dog park. However, Pug puppies should not be brought out to public places for exercise until all puppy shots have been given. This is typically by the age of 12 to 14 months old. You will want to confirm this with your Pug's veterinarian. This should be a light to moderate cardio that slightly increases heart rate and keeps a Pug's body in motion. This can be greatly extended for Pugs that are healthy and enthusiastic to stay more active than this. With precautions in place, a Pug can go for an hour walk or more and there can be 3 to 4 exercise sessions per day. Exercise frequency and duration can be adjusted as needed. Weather including hot summer days or freezing winter days can affect a Pug's tolerance for outdoor activity. It can help to split up exercise sessions into shorter intervals, for example, four minute walks as opposed to two minute walks. And, as a Pug transitions into the senior years or if there is a develop of hip or joint issues, exercise may need to be scaled back. In most cases, there is never a valid reason to completely stop exercising a Pug since remaining sedentary often leads to a wide range of health issues. Going for walks is the most traditional method of ensuring that a dog meets their exercise requirements and for good reasons. There is always a Point A and a Point B which gives you both a goal and helps ensure proper duration. And, unlike free-running, intensity can be adjusted by you, as you see fit. This is another excellent way to keep a Pug active. This refers to a controlled physical activity session, often with alternating short bouts of cardio and rest. The classic game of fetch fits into this category and is a good choice since most dogs find it to be very enjoyable and it helps strengthen the owner-dog bond. In addition, fetch can be played both indoors and out, making this perfect no matter the weather. Tips for Walking Your Pug By following some easy guidelines, you can take your Pug for walks knowing that you are allowing your dog to reap the benefits of exercise in a safe manner. When exercising a Pug, breathing-related issues must always stay a top priority. And, the accessories that you place on your Pug play a huge role in this. Collars place pressure and tension against the windpipe which can severely impact a Pug's ability to breath. Each pull on the leash or lunge to the side puts compression on already stressed airway structures. Avoid this by using a harness. This distributes tension from the leash onto the shoulders, back, and chest where Pugs have strong skeletal muscles. There are different types of harnesses including step-in and pull-overs, straps and vests. One recommended one is the Puppia Soft B Vest Harness which is an easy step-in design nothing needs to be pulled over the head with an air-mesh fabric that keeps a Pug comfortable and cool, and an easy-close Velcro flap on the back. When you take your Pug for walks, you will want to be in control of the pace and the easiest way to accomplish this is to have your Pug in a heeling position; this means to your immediate left and no further ahead than the extension of your foot. For this, you will hold the handle of the leash in your right hand, allow the leash to cross past your body, and then grip it near your left hip. Using a 6-foot leash or a retractable leash will help you feel comfortable when doing this. For this, you may wish to consider the Flexi Retractable Dog Leash which has a very comfortable grip and a one-handed brake button. Offer a break for rest and hydration at the halfway mark of a short walk and every 15 to 20 minutes on a long walk. This should be done even if your Pug seems to be handling their exercise just fine and there are no signs of overheating. You may wish to bring along a collapsible bowl and a chilled water bottle or an all-in-one option like the Tuff Pupper Portable Water Bottle. Concrete, pavement, and brick can all reach over F degrees during the summertime which can cause burns to the paws. If you cannot hold your palm to the surface for a count of 5, it's too hot for your Pug to walk on. Paw wax see tip 7, ahead , staying in the shade, or rescheduling walks for early morning and later in the evening can help with this; generally taking your Pug out before 10 AM and after 5 PM will help you avoid the hottest parts of the day. Keep your Pug securely in a heel position so you can react to and help with any traction issues. Paw wax see next tip can help with this. On days that the temperature is below freezing, limit the duration of the walk. And, during stormy weather snow or ice storms your dog's safety is more important than that one exercise session, so the walk may need to be put on hold. Paws take a beating when a dog is out and about. Hot walking surfaces, frozen walking surfaces, allergens, irritants, and slippery small gravel or ice surfaces are all possible issues. Applying a paw wax can help with all of these aspects. A good one to use is Musher's Secret Paw Protection Wax ; this absorbs pretty quickly, only has to be applied once every 2 weeks, and does a great job at offering a breathable layer of protection and better traction. The last thing you want to happen is that your Pug tires out once you're at the halfway mark and still need to turn around and cover the same amount of distance to return home. On the first day, go half the distance and see how your Pug did. You can then add on more distance the next time. With your little guy or gal on a harness and in the heeling position previous tip 1 , you can speed up, slow down, go around telephone poles, swerve around bushes, etc. This can be played in many places including your own yard or a park or can be kept inside on days with bad weather as long as you have room in your house. Some dogs naturally know how to play and others need a bit of time to catch on. Here are some tips to keep this a fun and beneficial activity. If this is going to replace a walk, set a timer for 15 to 20 minutes. The more animated you are and the more you let yourself laugh, the more your Pug will want to chase after the fetch toy and enjoying bringing it back to you for another go. Even if your Pug can't catch the ball in the air or is a bit confused about what to do, your encouraging words will keep things moving along. Give praise for 'good tries' and effort that your Pug puts into the game. And, offer a reward treat when the game is complete. A fun fetch toy for outside games is the Chuckit! Flying Squirrel Spinning Toy ; this brightly colored fabric toy does some pretty wild soaring and is easy for a dog to mouth. And, if you have some space in your house like a large room or a long hallway, you can play fetch with your Pug using a toy like the Chuckit! Indoor Roller Dog Toy. There is an optional launcher that shoots the ball for you, if your arm needs a rest. While you do want to keep your Pug moving for at least 15 minutes, it's best to end the game while your little guy or gal is still having fun. This will help your puppy or dog look forward to the next session. If your Pug has a hard time accepting that the game is over and is clamoring at you to continue, you can give one last throw and then offer a reward treat as a sign that the session is truly over. Switching to a new activity like brushing the coat can help your Pug make the transition. Alternative Ways to Keep a Pug Active 1 Dog parks can be a great place for a Pug to move around if he is otherwise reluctant at home. Interacting with other dogs can be motivation to run around and can be a good way to build social skills. You will want to be sure to visit a park that has separate areas for dogs based on size. Never let your Pug into an area with much larger dogs. Keep an eye on your Pug to assess breathing and separate him for breaks and re-hydration as needed. Keeping visits to the park to 1 hour is a good time limit. This is a low-impact exercise that is sometimes used in recovery therapy for dogs being treated for joint issues. This said, since the Pug has a barrel-shaped body, this breed is not the most proficient swimmer. Play it safe by having your Pug wear a canine life vest and staying by their side for close supervision. Be sure to rinse your dog off afterward to make sure chlorine and pool chemicals are washed from the skin and coat. Pugs can go on hikes and explore many places with their humans. If you search for hiking places to bring your Pug, the 3 aspects to focus on are distance, difficulty, and terrain. It's recommended to stick to trails no longer than 2 miles if you plan to loop around , those rated as easy or introductory, and with a terrain of solid, soft, or gently rolling hills avoiding those marked steep or rough. A Final Word Since the Pug breed is prone to weight gain and certain joint issues, exercise is an important part of care that will help keep your dog's body in good shape, maintain important muscle mass, keep the heart healthy, and burn calories. Pugs tend to mimic their owners; if their human is happy to sit around all day, a Pug may be perfectly content to snooze the day away. But, if their human sends out a vibe that engaging in exercise is fun, a Pug is often more than happy to join in. Keep your Pug active while being away of their limitations; it's an important step in extending your Pug's life span to be as long as possible. Did you find this to be helpful? Are you a PetPugDog Member? If not, join us today by becoming a free Membe r; this will allow you to receive newsletters that announce new articles and important information. Other articles you may like: Pug Paw Care - Great tips to keep the paws in good shape and remedies for common yet troublesome paw issues. Leaving a Pug Home Alone - It's not easy heading out to work, school, or even to run errands if you know your Pug has a hard time being alone. This article offers super-helpful tips for keeping a Pug occupied and happy while you're away. Top Pug Care Tips - A helpful round-up of the 15 things you can do to ensure your Pug puppy or dog for optimal safety, health, and happiness. Taking Care of a Pug's Teeth - Ignoring the teeth now can have terrible consequences later. Learn how to keep your Pug's teeth strong and healthy. Includes breed bite set and common issues. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Pugs are a small and charming breed known for their distinctive wrinkled face, short muzzle, and curly tail. They have a long history dating back to ancient China, where they were treasured as companions to Chinese royalty. Pugs have a compact and sturdy build, with an average height of cm and a weight ranging from kg. Their life expectancy is usually between 12 and 15 years. What is the temperament of Pugs like? Pugs have a friendly and affectionate temperament, making them excellent companions and family pets. They are known for their love of human company and thrive on attention and companionship. Pugs are generally good with children and get along well with other pets. They have a fun-loving and playful nature, always ready to entertain and bring joy to their owners. Pugs are known to have a strong bond with their families and can be quite sensitive to their owner's emotions. How much exercise do Pugs need? Pugs have a moderate exercise requirement and should be provided with daily physical activity to keep them fit and healthy. They need approximately 30 minutes to 1 hour of exercise each day, which can be split into multiple short walks or play sessions. It's important to note that Pugs can be prone to overheating due to their short muzzle, so exercise should be done during cooler times of the day and in shaded areas. Be mindful of their breathing and avoid strenuous activities that may cause respiratory distress. Pug puppies have different exercise requirements compared to adult dogs. Their growing bodies and developing joints require caution to avoid injury. It's recommended to provide short and gentle exercise sessions for puppies, focusing on playtime and controlled activities that don't put excessive strain on their joints. Avoid long walks or high-impact activities until they are fully developed, usually around 12 months of age. Do Pugs need a lot of grooming? Pugs have a short, smooth coat that is relatively easy to maintain. They are average shedders and require regular brushing to keep their coat healthy and remove loose hair. A weekly brushing session with a soft bristle brush or grooming mitt is usually sufficient. They should be bathed every months or as recommended by your vet or a professional groomer. Pugs are prone to wrinkles and folds on their face, so it's important to clean and dry these areas regularly to prevent skin irritation or infection. Like any dog, regular tooth brushing with a dog-specific toothpaste twice daily is ideal. Are Pugs easy to train? Pugs are generally intelligent and eager to please, but they can have a stubborn streak, which can make training a bit challenging at times. Positive reinforcement methods, such as rewards and treats, work best when training Pugs. They respond well to praise and gentle guidance. Keep training sessions short, fun, and engaging to maintain their interest. Consistency, patience, and a sense of humour are key when training Pugs. Early socialisation and basic obedience training are important to ensure they grow up to be well-behaved and confident dogs. What do Pugs eat? A balanced and nutritious diet is essential for the overall health and well-being of Pugs. Feed them high-quality dog food that is appropriate for their age, size, and activity level. Puppies should be fed a puppy-specific small dog diet formulated to support their growth and development. Most puppies should be fed times a day until 6 months old, when this is reduced to twice daily. As they mature, they can transition to adult dog food. It's important to monitor their weight and adjust their portion sizes accordingly to prevent obesity, as Pugs can have a tendency to overeat. Consult with your vet for specific dietary recommendations and feeding guidelines for your Pug. Are Pugs healthy? Pugs may be prone to certain health conditions. Some common health concerns in Pugs include: Body Weight Obesity - Abnormal or excessive fat accumulation leading to secondary health concerns. Bones and Joints Elbow Dysplasia - this condition is where there is an issue with how the bones fit together at the elbow joint Hip Dysplasia - a condition where the thigh bone and pelvis do not sit together properly at the hip joint, which can lead to discomfort and arthritis Hemivertebra - one or more deformed vertebrae which can cause spinal cord compression which can lead to pain, weakness or an inability to walk Legg-Calve-Perthes Disease: a hip condition that affects the blood supply to the head of the femur bone, leading to breakdown of the bone, pain and lameness. Skin Atopy - when the immune system overreacts to an allergen and results in skin irritation. Skin fold dermatitis - inflammation, and possible infection of the skin between two skin folds. This list is by no means comprehensive, if you have any concerns about the health of your dog, or if you want to discuss further if a Pug is right for you, consult with your vet. Potential health issues presented are given as a guide only and are not meant to be comprehensive. If you ever have any concerns about your dog's health, contact your local vet. Toy Breed Dogs Breed Guides. If this is your first time owning a small dog like a Pug, you may not know how long you can walk a Pug puppy? These small dogs will love walking right beside you, but they need special attention and care during their walks, unlike other breeds. However, if you like to have fun and play around with your Pug, too, keep the total exercise time from 40 minutes to one hour as recommended by the UK Pug Dog Club and the American Kennel Club. Cute little Pugs, with their funny flat faces, big sparkling eyes, and curly tail, are so fascinating and attractive, but they stay low-key most of the time. They show only short bursts of energy, hence enjoying shorter playtimes and leisure walks rather than brisk marches. It is essential to know that long, fast walks would result in severe breathlessness and even joint problems for your Pug. Avoid Strenuous Walks With A Pug Puppy Long walks, running up and down the stairs, or jumping around excessively is considered a strenuous activity for them. Their activity should be strictly monitored and controlled. After long, high-speed walks, you will most probably find them snorting and short of breath. If you try to walk your puppy too much too fast, they may sit down and refuse to walk. So be prepared to carry them as this breed can have a stubborn streak. Vigorous exercise during this time can negatively affect the soft areas at the end of the bones where the cells continuously divide for the growth of limbs. There should be no walking until at least 1 hour after eating, as this can cause your puppy to suffer from bloats, which is a serious medical condition for pugs. Their stomachs fill with gas, leading to cutting off the blood supply to the stomach. Instead, they will keep struggling to match your pace, ending up tired and breathless. Since pugs do not have a perfect breathing system, they end up in heavy breathing even after a short period of walking. Using a harness while walking can help reduce any stress on the throat area of the pug puppy. This allows them to breathe freely, which can lead to a longer walking duration. Always keep an eye on your Pug, especially when they are outdoors with you. Try to keep them comfortable and cared for. Walk Time and the Effect of Weather Pugs have a short snout which hinders their breathing rate, causing problems in extremely hot weather conditions. So, refrain from taking your puppy out in the heat. Even letting them lie in the sun may cause it to overheat and the breathing issue to aggravate. Since regular activity is required to keep your pup healthy and fit, do not restrict its activity even in summers. Just alter the timings and walk your Pug a little earlier in the morning or late in the evening. Do not let it wander away while walking or playing, as it may run excessively and warm up too much. Pugs do not enjoy rainy weather and moisture either. Here are some tips to make walking your Pug in the rain, easier, especially when they refuse to go. You may prefer to walk your dog in shady, sheltered areas on such days. Winters may also not be favorable for your Pug, but avoiding walks may make your puppy a couch potato. While planning to have a stroll in such weather conditions, simply make sure your puppy has a warm, cozy coat on. Start with giving your pet access to a small open area — a garden at your place can initially be an ideal strolling spot. It is soft for the short limbs of your Pug and gives better practice before moving onto the harder surfaces and pavements. It will stay under your observation in a garden and yet will have the freedom to walk the way it wants. Let your pup play and walk itself first, followed by a lead-walking practice. Moving gradually from a slower to faster pace would lead to building up of the stamina. Setting up a reward system to train your puppy to walk for longer durations of time may prove to be very beneficial. They are fond of your love and affection. Their playful nature makes them great family dogs. This breed is extremely loyal and will bond quickly with its human family, making them a kid-safe breed. Though small in size, they possess an enormous personality. Not only are they fun-loving, but extremely smart, observant, and fast learners too. They tend to learn and develop habits at a very young age. Be sure to check out these Pug training secrets that dog trainers use on all breeds of dogs, even stubborn breeds like Pugs. Final Word A young puppy should walk no more than 20 minutes at one time until they have built up their endurance. Pug Puppies are not ideal dogs for long walks and need exceptional care and attention when taken for a walk. A loving owner would nonetheless find it highly amusing to train their pug puppy for walks- your Pug will make sure to stay at the center of your attention and will never let you feel frustrated or tired!

Skinny, sick and extremely weak, Tracy just barely clung to life — and whenever she tried to walk, she nearly fell over. The vet began treating her for pancreatitis, but after two days, she showed no signs of improvement. She was brought to an emergency vet clinic, where more tests were done, but the cause of her sickness still remained a mystery. The day before Christmas Eve, we knew we had to bring her to the only other people who could give her more help. After a few more tests, the vets concluded Tracy was only suffering from one thing: starvation. After four days in their care, she had improved enough to move to an experienced foster home that frequently works with Adopt A Boxer. Although experiencing a house for the first time was scary, Tracy has found comfort in her foster siblings and is getting more confident each day. An estimated 2 million of these puppies are sold through pet shops and other retailers each year. Like the mill where Tracy lived, most puppy mills in America are licensed by the USDA, which enforces only the minimum animal care regulations required under the Animal Welfare Act. These regulations cover only the most basic survival standards like food, water and shelter — which allow licensed puppy dealers to keep hundreds of dogs in cages for the duration of their lives with little to no exercise or human attention. While these standards are in place, some mills continue to fall under the radar, resulting in extremely sick, even starving dogs like Tracy. And now that her situation has been reported, the Pennsylvania SPCA has opened an active investigation into the mill that she came from. In the meantime, giving these dogs the best life really is the best revenge. You can also take a pledge against puppy mills and donate to investigations that help shut them down. By signing up, I agree to the Terms and Privacy Policy. Cookie Settings. Life Span Did You Know? The Boxer is one of the most popular dog breeds in the United States. It has been recognized by the AKC since .Although the Boxer dog breed originated in Germany, their ancient ancestry can be traced back to the Assyrian empire war dogs of BC. The modern Boxer breed we know and love today was originally developed in Germany in the late s. English-bred Bulldogs and the Bullenbesiier were crossed to create an energetic and agile hunting dog to chase wild game. The Boxer is a popular family companion and a versatile working dog. As a member of the Working Group, Boxers can be found competing in dog sports like agility, obedience, and herding. They also make great service and assistance dogs, as well as therapy dogs, and can be found working as search and rescue dogs, drug detection dogs, police dogs, and military dogs. The Boxer is a muscular and energetic dog that tends to have a happy, friendly disposition. They bond closely with their families and tend to get along well with children and other dogs. They can even do well with other pets despite their high prey drive if they are socialized and trained with them. As long as they are well-socialized, Boxers are generally upbeat, playful, and friendly. Although they have a natural instinct to protect their family from unwanted visitors, they do tend to warm up once introduced and are happy to make a new friend. They can be prone to barking a lot if you do not work on socialization and training your dog to stop barking early on. Boxers can be highly adaptable dogs. Although they have a lot of energy and are better suited to homes with yards where they can run, they can adapt to apartment living as long as they get the daily exercise, attention, and mental stimulation they need. As with any non-arctic dog breed, they are sensitive to very cold temperatures. Boxers are also a brachycephalic breed, which means they are even more sensitive to heat than other dogs. A Boxer is also one of the most affectionate dog breeds. Because they bond so closely with their families and get bored easily, they should not be left alone for long periods of time. Potential health conditions to be aware of in a Boxer include hip dysplasia, degenerative myelopathy, thyroid issues , and heart conditions like aortic stenosis and cardiomyopathy. Good breeding practices make a big difference and reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking the breeder about the health and genetic history of the parents and about any health tests that have been done. Boxers are intelligent dogs that are eager to please their owners. Despite their energetic personality, they are one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners and are highly trainable dogs. They tend to excel at almost any task put before them! Because of their open, friendly nature and high energy, they have a tendency to jump up at people in excitement and playfulness. Since they grow into powerful dogs, you will want to make sure you train your dog not to jump up. Boxers have smooth and short coats that will shed a little year-round and require minimal grooming. A brush-down once or twice a week and the occasional bath as needed will keep their short coat healthy and looking great. Nail trims once or twice a month are usually enough to keep nails from growing too long. Checking ears weekly and carefully cleaning as needed can help prevent ear infections. Checking and wiping their facial wrinkles weekly or a few times a week if your dog is prone to getting into things can help keep their wrinkles clean and free of irritation. Dental diseases, like gum disease, are the most common health issues in older dogs because dental care is often overlooked; and, it can lead to other serious health issues. Brushing daily, plus cleanings at the vet when needed, is ideal. The Boxer is a high-energy dog breed that needs plenty of daily exercise to stay happy and healthy. Due to their high prey drive and urge to chase, they should only be let off-leash in secure areas. Boxers tend to get bored with repetition, are excellent problem solvers, and are naturally exuberant. A fully-grown Boxer usually stands inches tall at the shoulder and weighs pounds. Boxers generally live years on average. In Germany, the Boxer was one of the first dog breeds chosen for police training. Featured Boxer Article. About Us Welcome to FurbabyBoxers! We are lifelong lovers of the Boxer breed. Anyone who has had one knows the special spot they can hold in our heart. There is just nothing that can compare to that wiggle butt boxer dance. We live in the heart of Amish country in Ohio, with plenty of room for our dogs and puppies to grow and play. They all have exceptional dispositions, and we can trust them around our children and others, without a second thought. Our puppies are raised with love, as if they were our own; in the home, underfoot, experiencing all the sounds and smells of life living in the home. We are NOT a puppy mill. Our boxers are loved members of our family and we enjoy helping others add this lovable breed to their families also. Our puppies have daily human contact starting at birth. As soon as they are old enough they also begin playing and socializing with our children and ourselves. It is our goal to provide healthy, well-socialized, and trainable boxers that are a positive addition to your home. You can view our dogs and puppies on Instagram furbabyboxers.

They date back hundreds of years and are also known as British Bulldogs. They are a muscular, well-built dog with a wrinkled face and a pushed-in nose. This breed has won the hearts of generations of families for decades. They are considered to be one of the most popular dogs breeds in existence today. These fantastic puppies have gained popularity worldwide due to their playful, loyal, funny, and caring personality. They are laidback and tend to get along well with just about anyone or anything. They have very approachable demeanors and enjoy the companionship of their family. They also have a very easy-going personality which is one of the reasons they have remained a popular family dog. The English Bulldog does enjoy activity time and burning off energy, however, is not an overly energetic breed of dog. The correct ratio of meat-based protein and micronutrients, as well as healthy carbs and fats, will keep your dog feeling and looking his best. Most people recommend feeding this breed two meals each day, spaced about twelve hours apart. This will help to ensure the dog is provided with the proper nutrients he needs. It is also important to remember to provide your dog with proper dental care. It is suggested that his teeth get cleaned a minimum of three times a week. Failing to keep his teeth clean can contribute to health issues. Although properly cleaning his teeth will take some practice to get good at, in time, this will become easier for you and your pup. The English Bulldog grows to be between fourteen and fifteen inches tall. At maturity, the English Bulldog weighs between fifty and fifty-five pounds. The average life expectancy for this breed is between eight and ten years. English Bulldogs require regular bathing and grooming. It is suggested that they are bathed as frequently as every week up to no more than every four weeks depending on their activity level and lifestyle. This smooth coated breed does best with routine brushing which is essential to maintain healthy skin and a healthy coat. Frequently Asked Questions What are some of the health issues English bulldogs are likely to face? The English bulldog has various health issues with the most alarming being cardiac and respiratory complications. English bulldogs are also prone to dyslexia in the hip due to their relatively large body size. Skin infections are also a concern do to the wrinkly and folds nature of the skin. What is the lifespan of an English bulldog? The English bulldog can live up to years on an average scale. This is usually due to the numerous complications and health challenges the bulldog faces in the course of life. How frequently do English bulldogs shed? English bulldogs shed more frequently during the cold seasons like winter and spring. Compared to other dogs, they shed rather moderately and even lesser as they age. How hard is it to train an English bulldog? This breed of dog is known for its stubborn nature and can be really difficult especially for novice dog owners to get the hang of. Patience and routine should be the keywords when dealing with a bulldog. Are English bulldogs good watchdogs? The English bulldog has a natural instinct to protect its territory. Even though the bulldog is not usually much of a barking dog, in the case of an intruder it is well equipped and confident to take on the challenge at every cost. Are English Bulldogs dangerous to their owners? The English bulldog is not a dangerous pet. It is very much territorial and somewhat apprehensive to unfamiliar faces, but once it warms up to you, the bulldog is one of the most loving and loyal dogs. How much exercise do English Bulldogs need? The English bulldog on average needs about 30minuites of exercise every day to keep it mentally and physically healthy. Are English Bulldogs family dogs? The English bulldog may seem aggressive at first glance but you will get to find that they have a contrasting character to their appearance. They are perfect around children and can play all day. They are extremely lovable and friendly. How big do English Bulldogs get? English bulldogs can weigh up to 50 pounds and can grow as tall as 15inches. Male or female English Bulldog? This depends solely on the owner as both genders have their specific pros and cons. English bulldogs are very friendly and warm dogs and are amazing around children. No wonder they are one of the most sought-after breeds in the world. Are you interested in purchasing a English Bulldog? Fill out the below form and we'll get back to you as soon as possible. Welcoming a new puppy into your home is an exciting time filled with joy, cuddles, and a few inevitable challenges. One of the most common questions new puppy owners ask is, "When can puppies go outside? Table of Contents Easiest Dog to Take Care of: Top 10 Breeds for a Happy Home Do you ever dream about having a furry best friend who loves to play fetch, gives the warmest cuddles, and greets you with the happiest tail wags every time you come home? A friend who is not just any dog, but the easiest dog to take care of? We know, it sounds like a dream come true, right? But we also understand that bringing a new puppy home is a big step. It's like adding a new member to your family, a little brother or sister.All French Bulldog Insights French Bulldog Breed Info If you're seeking an adorable companion with a charmingly squashed face, an easygoing personality, and a distinct penchant for lounging on the couch, the French Bulldog could just be your perfect match. With their signature bat ears and expressive eyes, French Bulldogs, or "Frenchies" as they are lovingly known, have captured the hearts of many dog lovers around the globe, consistently ranking among the most popular breeds. Renowned for their easy maintenance and the ability to thrive in apartment living, French Bulldogs are a city dweller's delight. Their small size, typically weighing under 28 pounds, makes them perfectly suited to compact urban spaces. However, their charming personalities and heartwarming companionship are universally loved, irrespective of city or countryside living. This breed's laid-back nature does not mean they're devoid of fun and play. On the contrary, French Bulldogs can be quite playful and are known for their often comical and entertaining antics, which only further endears them to their owners. Their affectionate demeanor, combined with a remarkably low barking tendency, makes them a joy to have around the house. French Bulldogs are sturdy, compact, and stocky, with a powerful muscular build that contradicts their small size. They have a smooth coat that comes in a variety of colors, from fawn and brindle to white and grey. Their facial expressions are human-like, and they're known to "talk" using a complex system of yawns, yips, and gargles. However, owning a French Bulldog does come with responsibilities. Their brachycephalic short-nosed nature makes them prone to certain health issues and less tolerant of extreme temperatures. Despite their muscular appearance, they are not the best swimmers, and care should be taken around bodies of water. View Our Available Puppies! They are also known as F1b pups-meaning a 2nd generation Beabull puppy. We usually have a few Unique Colored Beabull Puppies! In each litter of beabull pups, we are usually blessed with a few unique Lilac or Lilac Merle colored puppies in each litter. These puppies are unique and highly sought after. Our adult beabulls typically weigh between pounds once they are adults. They usually reach an average height of inches at the shoulders. The life expectancy of a beabull is normally years of age. Our second-generation beabulls are usually smaller in size than a purebred English Bulldog and have a lot of added benefits and genetic advantages over registered English bulldogs. They usually have a longer muzzle that allows them to breathe better than the snub nose of the bulldog. Giving your beabull regular baths will help keep their coats clean and shiny. So if you live near Knoxville Tennessee and are looking for a healthy and beautiful beabull puppy then check out are available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some beabull pups that have been adopted.

November 20th Update: Puppies Available for Reservation!! We are located an hour west of Toronto, Ontario. Our French Bulldogs live with us on site and are a huge part of our family. We believe in working closely with new families making sure we find the right Frenchie for you! We have over 20 years of breeding experience and continue working towards breeding healthier and happier dogs! During the period of birth till adoption, your puppy will learn about obedience, proper socialization and live closely with mom getting fed the proper nutrients it will need to leave our house strong, healthy, and confident to take on the rest of its life! Educate Yourself! You now have the puppy of your dreams! Its cute, stunning, clownish, affectionate, charismatic, how fantastic! They are quite at home, rarely barking. Independent in nature, will be content relaxing on the couch until they perk up again when you enter the room. Aside from the pleasures that go along with owning a Frenchie come attributes you need to be aware of. They cannot swim! Be cautious around the water. They are not good in the heat and extreme caution needs to be exercised during those hotter days. Please refer to our heat chart to use as a guide. We get lots of questions regarding the colours phenotype of puppies we produce. We are a smaller kennel and Frenchies come in many colours. Pick up for these puppies will be December 21st .Noodles x Maddy. Instagram: Royal Frenchies Insta 2. They are small home-based hobby breeders. The French Bulldog and the puppies are like their loving family members. They bred puppies and dogs lived a comfortable life and used to sleep and eat with them like a family. They tell us that we believe in quality, not quantity. Due to this reason, they only breed the healthiest French Bulldogs, which have the healthiest temperament and conformation for their breeding program. Their puppies are raised in a family-based environment. Due to this reason, they are well socialized and loving. Their dogs are raised with children. Red Truck Bulldogs Ontario, Canada Their puppies are cute, stunning, affectionate, clownish, and charismatic. They keep puppies with mom from the very first day until you take them with them. They will teach proper socialization and obedience to your puppy. Their French Bulldogs are bred and raised at home with a family and friendly environment. Their main goal and aim are to ensure that your puppy will be healthier, loving, happier, caring, and well socialized. Due to this reason, they used to raise their puppies with children, adults, and other dogs. Their main target is to ensure the quality and give you the best, healthy, and well-socialized puppy. They are famous French Bulldog breeders in Ontario for their love and affection for the Bulldogs. They treat their dogs and puppies like their family. Their puppies and dogs are raised in a friendly environment around children, adults, other dogs, etc. Their dogs are also happier, loyal, loving, caring, and well socialized because they are raised among the other dogs, adults, and children. Location: Alberta, Canada. Showing 1 - 40 of resultsPage 1 - results Sort by Your listing deserves to be on top. Vaccination and health certificate. Black female Brown female Merle females with blue eyes Fawn boy with blue eyes .I'm glad to learn about your interest in our exotic french bulldogs. Thank you for considering adding one of our four-legged friends to your family. To provide you with more information and.All our puppies are very happy and healthy and are all raised in our home with lots of love, attention.Puppies are ready to go to their new homes. We have 2 males and 1 female available. All our puppies are very happy.Both parents are small and compact. Website : Georgianbayfrenchies. Litter 2 was born July 1 and has 7 puppies 3 girls 4 boys. My puppies are raised under.His colour is light fawn and his eyes are light brown. Mother is a French bulldog and the dad is a jack russel shih szu mix. She is great with kids and others dogs. Temperament is amazing along with a phenomenal build and body structure. Our adorable female French Bulldog has created an adorable litter of pups, all vaccinated, dewormed and healthy. Looking for families to love them! We live in Mississauga, We have 6 cute puppies in total. PM for more pics and info Blue tan: one boy. Both parents have been cleared from breed known diseases. No allergies. They come in Lilac and Cream chocolate Merles and blue Merle and one solid chocolate. They come microchipped, Please Contact mini french bulldog Toronto Hi i'm selling my beautiful pied pure breed Frenchie the mother and the father i own home raised fully vaccinated puppy she is so smart already pee pad trained she is born in jun 11 already 11weeks.She is registered to ABKC and comes with rights. The perfect girl for your program. All ready to go home 11 weeks comes with paperwork as well! Nobleton Blueberry has found her forever home with Colleen and Glen of Brampton Thanks for all the inquiries Healthy Isabella carrier blue French Bulldog female available to a l loving home or small breeder.Puppies born in Saskatchewan, Canada at our local vet office. All boys We have 2 new shade and.Puppies born in July .Ready to go this lovely girls. Gorgeous and very friendly little one woll bring love your family! Please Contact French bulldog Toronto Hi two pure breed French bulldog puppies available available 11 weeks old boys, platinum and black Vet checked Dewormed First shoot One year health guarantee we are family-based breeder our puppies.Showing 1 - 40 of resultsPage 1 - results Sort by Your listing deserves to be on top. They come in Lilac and Cream chocolate Merles and blue Merle and one solid chocolate. They come microchipped, Vaccination and health certificate. Black female Brown female Merle females with blue eyes Fawn boy with blue eyes .All our puppies are very happy and healthy and are all raised in our home with lots of love, attention.Both parents are small and compact. Website : Georgianbayfrenchies. Litter 2 was born July 1 and has 7 puppies 3 girls 4 boys. My puppies are raised under.My French bulldog used it when he was weeks old. No damage no dirt or rip. Pickup at Toronto downtown or.Shipping by seller Dog sweater size L Toronto Selling dog puppy sweater. Used 1 time. Perfect condition no damage. My dog is a French bulldog used it when he was 3 month old. Pick up at Toronto downtown. I can do shipping as well. His colour is light fawn and his eyes are light brown. Mother is a French bulldog and the dad is a jack russel shih szu mix. She is great with kids and others dogs. Temperament is amazing along with a phenomenal build and body structure. Our adorable female French Bulldog has created an adorable litter of pups, all vaccinated, dewormed and healthy. Looking for families to love them! We live in Mississauga, We have 6 cute puppies in total. PM for more pics and info Blue tan: one boy. Both parents have been cleared from breed known diseases. No allergies. Decorative Throw Pillows for Couch Bed Sofa with Zip CoversAn easy fun way to add a pop of colour or bring new life to any room in your home or office is with these beautiful Animal throw pillows. Dress up your bed sofa or lounger with this decorative design art pillows. Please Contact mini french bulldog Toronto Hi i'm selling my beautiful pied pure breed Frenchie the mother and the father i own home raised fully vaccinated puppy she is so smart already pee pad trained she is born in jun 11 already 11weeks.She is registered to ABKC and comes with rights. The perfect girl for your program. All ready to go home 11 weeks comes with paperwork as well! Nobleton Blueberry has found her forever home with Colleen and Glen of Brampton Thanks for all the inquiries Healthy Isabella carrier blue French Bulldog female available to a l loving home or small breeder.Puppies born in Saskatchewan, Canada at our local vet office. All boys We have 2 new shade and

We strive to produce dogs with correct breed conformation, sound genetics, and an amazing temperament. Our dogs have their OFA Orthopedic Foundation for Animals hips, elbows, heart and eye clearances as well as a DNA panel specific to genetic diseases prevalent to our breed. Our Retrievers are not only perfect indoor companions, but love to be out in the show ring, retrieving on land and dock diving. Deciding to bring a dog into your home is a big and life changing decision! We look forward to talking with you about our wonderful breed and guiding you through life with a golden! Join The Family What Others Say We absolutely love staying in touch with our families and following along as our babies grow. Here are some words from our families! I found adventuresoftrinitypups on instagram and every day I looked forward to watching the videos and pictures of the most beautiful looking and well-behaved Golden Retrievers I have ever seen! After watching them for almost a year I decided to message the person behind the account to inquire about finally adopting my own Golden Retriever because my heart was set on wanting one from Trinity Retrievers! My husband and I drove all the way to South Carolina from New York to pick up the cutest little golden ever, whom we named Toby. The rest is history! He is the best and most well-behaved Golden Retriever, and we are constantly receiving compliments about Toby's temperament and appearance whenever we are in public because he is a perfectly bred Golden Retriever. He has even traveled with us on a handful of vacations! It was well worth the drive and I would only recommend her, and already have in the past, to anyone interested in adding a Golden Retriever to their family! We also hope to get Toby a sibling sometime soon and have kept in touch with Kristin so without a doubt will be getting one from Trinity Retrievers to add to our family! Share 0 Shares The Golden Retriever is a great companion for many active individuals out there, and they also tend to behave very well around children and other pets. This also makes the Golden Retriever a popular choice for many families. However, it is still always important that prospective Golden Retriever breeders do their research about the breeder before they bring a Golden Retriever puppy home. Looking up some basic facts about the Golden Retriever before obtaining one is always a good idea. There are some other things such as what gender and coat color you would like your Golden Retriever puppy to have. However, the most important thing to consider when getting a Golden Retriever puppy is whether or not a breeder is reputable. Here we have compiled a list of some of our favorite Golden Retriever breeders that are perfect for those who are looking for Golden Retriever puppies in South Carolina. Of course, it is still important that you look into these breeders yourself in order to ensure that they will make a good fit for you and your family. Trinity Golden Retrievers Trinity Golden Retrievers South Carolina These Golden Retriever breeders are dedicated to bettering the Golden Retriever breed by carefully breeding their dogs to ensure that they have great temperaments and genetic health. In order to prove their lines this breeder enters their dogs into AKC-run conformation events. All of their dogs also come from established pedigrees, many of them being championship-winning. Additionally, this breeder also gets their dogs OFA health testing for the hips, elbows, eyes, and heart as is recommended for the Golden Retriever breed. Many of their dogs have also received genetic testing for the conditions that can affect Golden Retrievers. This prevents harmful genetic conditions from being passed onto their puppies. Puppies are also kept in good health with up-to-date vaccinations, deworming, and vet visits. Name of Owner.

I have a great love and passion for German Shepherds, due to their intelligence and loyalty. I have a large, close family that are helping me raise, train, show and breed the dogs I love. Tiltonhaus kennel is attached to our home so that our German Shepherds can live primarily in our home enjoying family life with us. Rotating the dogs this way gives each dog lots of quality time with us. We strive to give our dogs the environment and attention that best enhances their well being and health. We live on 10 acres of land where our dogs can run and explore, along with several secure yards and runs for outdoor activity. Tiltonhaus German Shepherd dogs enjoy family outings, such as hikes, bike rides, picnics, camping, vacations, etc. All of our German Shepherds are purebred, AKC Registered, and come from top West German champion bloodlines known for producing dogs that are not only beautiful, but have balanced temperaments and strong work ethics. Degenerative Myelopathy. Our breeding dogs have had their hips and elbows certified with either the German SV a-stamp program or through OFA, which gives us the confidence to have all of our Tiltonhaus puppies guaranteed for hips and health in writing. Our puppies are handled and socialized from birth. So we become very attached to these little pups and care about their well being. Potential buyers should be prepared to answer questions about why they want to purchase a puppy and their plans for their puppy. We recommend that your new puppy get basic obedience training to be a happy, well-adjusted dog. Tiltonhaus is family owned and operated, fully licensed business located in Deer Park, Washington 15 minutes north of Spokane, WA. It lacks the physical deformities bred into western show lines of German Shepherds and has become one of Russia's most popular dog types. It was developed in the s and s to correct behavioural and conformational issues that have been bred into modern German Shepherds, and was bred for its large size, length of back, temperament and soundness of hips. White-coated German Shepherds were once banned from registration in their native Germany, but in the United States and Canada the coloration gained a following and a breed club was formed specifically for white German Shepherds, calling their variety the White Shepherd. The variety is recognised as a separate breed by the United Kennel Club. It descends from the American White Shepherds; the first stud dog of what was to become the breed was an American dog born in and imported to Switzerland. They are especially well known for their police work, being used for tracking criminals, patrolling troubled areas and detection and holding of suspects. Additionally, thousands of German Shepherds have been used by the military. These military working dogs MWD are usually trained for scout duty, and they are used to warn soldiers to the presence of enemies or of booby traps or other hazards. They were used in World War II as messenger dogs, rescue dogs and personal guard dogs. These include search and rescue, cadaver searching , narcotics detection, explosives detection , accelerant detection and mine detection dog, among others. They are suited for these lines of work because of their keen sense of smell and their ability to work regardless of distractions. When formal guide dog training began in Switzerland in the s under the leadership of Dorothy Eustis , all of the dogs trained were German Shepherd females. These results suggested that Labrador Retrievers were more suited to guide dog work while German Shepherds were more suited to police work. They are expected to patrol the boundaries to keep sheep from trespassing and damaging the crops. In Germany and other places these skills are tested in utility dog trials also known as Herdengebrauchshund HGH herding utility dog trials. He is regarded to be the dog who has captured the most drugs in Mexican police and military history. You may improve this section , discuss the issue on the talk page , or create a new section, as appropriate. By this number had grown to over .Returning soldiers spoke highly of the breed and animal actors Rin Tin Tin and Strongheart popularised the breed further. Her offspring had defects as the result of poor breeding, which caused the breed to decline in popularity during the late s. As of [update] , the German Shepherd is the second most popular breed in the US. Degenerative myelopathy , a neurological disease, occurs with enough regularity specifically in the breed to suggest that the breed is predisposed to it. A very inexpensive DNA saliva test is now available to screen for degenerative myelopathy. The test screens for the mutated gene that has been seen in dogs with degenerative myelopathy. The test is only recommended for predisposed breeds, but can be performed on DNA samples from any dog, collected through swabbing the inside of the animal's cheek with a sterile cotton swab. Prospective German Shepherd buyers can now request the test from the breeder or buy from a breeder who is known to test their dogs. Skeletal health and supplementation[ edit ] Musculoskeletal disorders are debilitating conditions that are often associated with genetic makeup, malnutrition, and stress-related events. Canine hip dysplasia CHD is an orthopaedic condition resulting from abnormal development of the hip joint and surrounding tissue causing the instability and partial dislocation of the hip joint, resulting in pain, inflammation , lameness, and potentially osteoarthritis of the joint. Both have stars on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. A German Shepherd named Inspector Rex is the star of an Austrian Police procedural drama program of the same name, which won many awards, where German Shepherd Rex assists the Vienna Kriminalpolizei homicide unit. It became one of the staple productions of Hungarian television history, making German Shepherds the most popular dog breed in the country ever since. Females: pounds. Height Males: inches. Females: inches. Unlike most herding breeds, the German Shepherd was bred to move the herd and patrol and protect both the herd and the shepherd from outside dangers and predators. The test consisted of basic obedience commands such as sit, stay, and retrieve and also included a section where the dog had to attack on command. If the dog failed the test, he could not be bred. The results of the Schutzhund trial can be seen in the intelligent and versatile modern-day German Shepherd. Today, the German Shepherd has proven to be a very adaptable breed. They can do nearly anything, including protecting sheep, guarding homes, assisting the disabled, aiding the police in search and rescue missions, and, most importantly, loving and loyally serving their family. Breed Characteristics Head: Somewhat mesaticephalic to slightly dolichocephalic skull-type, moderate in size, somewhat long, yet wedge-shaped when viewed from above or in profile. It is in proportion to the rest of the body. The length of the head, from the tip of the nose to the occiput, is approximately equal to the length from the occiput to the withers. The topskull is broad, measured in front of the ears; it is as wide as it is long from occiput to stop. In profile, the forehead is just slightly arched never domed from the front or in profile. In profile, it may also appear as a straight-sloped plane. A furrow extending from the stop and up the center of the topskull may be absent or barely perceptible. The head is clean-cut without excess skin or wrinkles. Eyes: Moderate in size, oval to open almond in shape, and may be set slightly oblique. They are medium to dark brown in color. The eye rims are well-fitted and well-pigmented. The eyes should never be large and round or with exposed whites. The eyes are never bulging. There should be sufficient bone in the surrounding orbital sockets to protect the eyes. Ears: Medium in size, firmly erect, thick-leathered, and set high on the skull. When alert, they face forward, in repose, or in motion; they may be held back, neutral, or in a relaxed position. The ears are never long, overly large, tipped, drooped, rounded, or broken. Muzzle: The muzzle is long, full, broad, and deep, never snipy, weak, or boxy from pendulous flews. The upper and lower jaws are equal in length, have good bone substance, appear strong and well-developed, and are never snipey or weak. The nasal bridge is fairly straight. The muzzle is equal in length to the topskull. The jaws are powerfully developed and strong. Nose: The nose is well-pigmented and black or self-colored according to the coat in non-standard color varieties. The nostrils are well-opened and broad. Neck: Moderate length allows for a proud head carriage. Strongly muscled with a slight arch. The neck tapers smoothly from the deeper and broader body toward the head. The neck is clean-cut and without excess skin, throatiness, or dewlap. Chest: Deep and broad but never wider than deep. The forechest is well-developed yet not overly protrusive. Body: Strong, deep, of good substance, and powerfully muscled. The body should allow for strength, agility, stamina, and endurance. The body is never light, weedy, racy, rangy, heavy, or refined. The width at the forequarters is approximately equal to the width at the hindquarters. Feet: Oval to round, compact, with well-arched toes and tough pads. Tail: Set neither high nor low on the croup. It is thick at the base and tapering toward the tip. It is of a medium length, with the tip of the last vertebrae extending to the hock joints or lower when held down. The tail may be straight, gently curved, or curved toward the tip. Movement: The original function of the German Shepherd required that the dog be capable of trotting tirelessly and effortlessly for long distances, as well as allowing for power and agility. Therefore, the German Shepherd must exhibit healthy trotting action. Therefore, a standard trot will be favored over the over-extended flying trot. The characteristics of a healthy structure are evident. When moving away, the forelegs and rear pasterns should remain parallel to one another. When viewing movement from the front, the forelegs should remain parallel, with elbows and paws moving neither in nor out. From the rear, the back pads should be visible when the rear legs are extended. As speed increases, the forelimbs and hindlimbs will converge to the center line of gravity. From the side, the topline should remain firm and level. Good reach of movement in the front allows the forepaw to extend out in line with the nose. When extended, the width between the forefeet should be approximately equal to the width between the hindfeet when extended, indicating balance, good reach, and a good drive. Dogs that exhibit any sign of breathing or locomotive difficulty shall be disqualified from the show ring. Temperament: The German Shepherd breed is strong-nerved, fearless, self-assured, self-composed, confident, watchful, poised, and alert when necessary. They should never be timid, shy, nervous, anxious, or overly fearful including fear-aggressive. The breed is physically capable of speed, power, agility, and endurance and is self-aware enough to know their capabilities and limits. This offers them a great deal of confidence. The German Shepherd is an extremely intelligent breed, capable of learning and discerning many tasks and activities. Any unprovoked aggressive or fearful behavior toward people is incorrect for this breed. The ideal body-height-to-length ratio is approximately , with the body exceeding the height by percent. The body is deep, of good substance, and solid in bone. The German Shepherd is always presented in a hard-working condition. Males should appear masculine, being more substantial in size and mass, while females should appear more feminine and slightly less substantial. Neither should lack overall type. The weight of a male or female is always in proportion to height. The intermediate-sized German Shepherd excels at physically demanding tasks. Head General Appearance: Somewhat mesaticephalic to slightly dolichocephalic skull-type, moderate in size, somewhat long, yet wedge-shaped when viewed from above or in profile. Expression: Confident, keen, noble, watchful, and anticipating. Stop: The stop is sloping yet definite and never overly pronounced or sharp. Skull: The ideal muzzle-to-skull ratio is , with the topskull being equal in length to the muzzle. The ideal muzzle-to-skull axis is parallel or may be just slightly convergent. Lips or Flews: The lips are clean and fit tightly over the teeth and jaws, revealing the wedged shape of the strongly defined muzzle. The lips are never loose or pendulous. The lips and flews are well-pigmented. Cheeks: Powerfully muscled, giving substance to the face, but never excessively protrusive. The cheeks should not appear chiseled or coarse. Dentition and Bite: Forty-two strong, clean, and white teeth. The bite may be level, scissor, or reverse-scissor. Contact must be made between the top and bottom incisors. Missing or broken teeth due to routine work are not to be penalized. Body and Tail General Description: Strong, deep, of good substance, and powerfully muscled. Topline: Straight and level from slightly prominent withers to loin. The back is broad, strongly muscled, and straight, yet supple. The loin is taut and may be flat and level preferred or just slightly sloped yet supportive. Croup: Broad and long. It may be somewhat flat and level with the back or just slightly and gently sloped, no more than 23 degrees to the horizontal. Underline: There may be a slight tucked-up present or level to the horizon. The underline is taut and firm, without any indication of sagging or excess weight. Ribs: Long, well-sprung, well-laid-back, oval-shaped, and never barrel-chested or slab-sided. Forequarters and Hindquarters Forequarters: The forequarters are always balanced with the hindquarters and well-angulated with well-laid-back shoulder blades. The shoulder blades are approximately equal in length to the upper arm and forearm. Elbows: The elbows are close to the body. The distance from the withers to the brisket may be equal to or greater than the distance from the elbows to the ground. Forelegs: Frontal View: Straight, of good muscle, of solid bone, and parallel to one another. Side View: The forelimbs appear straight with strong pasterns. Pasterns: Never weak or broken. Hindquarters: The upper and lower thighs are equal in length, strong, sturdy, of solid bone, and well-muscled. Rear View: When viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are parallel to one another. Side View: Good angulation will allow the rear toes to align with the point of the rump or within one to two paw-lengths behind the point of the rump, with the rear pasterns remaining perpendicular to the ground and parallel to one another. An unexaggerated German Shepherd dog should be capable of standing in a traditional stack used for any other working breed, with both rear pasterns set naturally under the dog, parallel to one another. Preference is given to dogs capable of stacking naturally in a traditional stack as opposed to the GSD stack. Good angulation will allow the rear toes to align with the point of the rump, or within one paw-length behind the point of the rump, with both rear pasterns remaining perpendicular to the ground and parallel to one another. Stifle Joint: Well-angulated with a good bend to well-let-down rear pasterns. Angulations: The angulation of the hindquarters is always in balance with the angulation of the forequarters. Coat Skin: Well-fitted, yet supple. The skin should never obstruct the outline of the dog. Coat Type: The German Shepherd comes in two coat varieties: the standard smooth coat and the long coat. Smooth-coat variety: Very dense, harsh, close-fitting outer coat. Soft, dense undercoat. Short on the head, face, ears, and front of the legs, paws, and toes. The hair is slightly longer on the backside of the legs, forming moderate "trousers," and on the neck, forming a slight ruff. Long-coat variety: Dense, soft, long guard hairs, forming fringe on ears, tail, and legs, forming bushy trousers on the backside of haunches. Short on head, face, the front side of legs, paws, and toes. Longer on the coat, nearly forming a mane. Coat Color or Pattern: CKC recognizes three color varieties of the German Shepherd breed: the standard, the nonstandard, and the white. Standard coat color variety: Solid black, black saddle with tan, black with tan points, black with running or creeping tan, all shades of agouti, wolf-sable, all shades of sable, fawn, all with or without reserved black mask. Non-standard coat color variety: Liver, blue, brindle, brindled tan, brindled tan points, fawn with liver, or blue mask. Any of the standard or non-standard varieties with or without white markings Panda. White: Solid white with black points. Movement The original function of the German Shepherd required that the dog be capable of trotting tirelessly and effortlessly for long distances, as well as allowing for power and agility. Temperament The German Shepherd breed is strong-nerved, fearless, self-assured, self-composed, confident, watchful, poised, and alert when necessary. Faults All dogs should be in proper healthy condition, free from disease or defect. Any departure from this description is considered a fault. Unless altered, all male dogs should have two fully descended testicles. German Shepherd Dog Herding Dog Group The goals and purposes of this breed standard include: to furnish guidelines for breeders who wish to maintain the quality of their breed and to improve it; to advance this breed to a state of similarity throughout the world; and to act as a guide for judges. Breeders and judges have the responsibility to avoid any conditions or exaggerations that are detrimental to the health, welfare, essence and soundness of this breed, and must take the responsibility to see that these are not perpetuated. Any departure from the following should be considered a fault, and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dogs ability to perform its traditional work. The tendencies toward exaggeration and steep angles are unacceptable. German Shepherd Dogs with unstable temperaments, sharply angulated croups, overly long front and rear pasterns, and hocks that are weak and wobbly are poor representations of this working breed. UKC is unwilling to condone the validity of using exaggerated specimens of this breed in a breeding program and, to preserve its health and vibrancy, cautions judges about awarding wins to these representatives. History The German Shepherd Dog is a relatively young breed, developed almost single-handedly in the first half of the twentieth century by a German cavalry officer, Max von Stephanitz, president of the Verein far Deutsche Schaferhunde S. Using a variety of German sheepdogs as his foundation stock, von Stephanitz developed a distinctive breed in a very short period of time, due in large part to the authoritarian practices of the German dog fancy at that time. Von Stephanitz emphasized utility and intelligence in his breeding program, enabling the German Shepherd Dog to switch easily from herding duties to other fields of work, particularly military and police work. All things German were shunned and popularity slumped. After the war, however, movie star Rin-Tin-Tin stimulated interest in the breed again. The striking good looks of this breed, combined with its remarkable intelligence and loyalty, have made it a favorite working and companion dog. General Appearance The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, well-balanced, muscular dog, slightly longer than tall, with a medium length coat, erect ears, and a low-set natural tail that normally reaches to the hock and is carried in a slight curve like a saber. The outline of the German Shepherd Dog is made up of smooth curves rather than angles. The head is in proportion to the size of the body, strong without appearing coarse or fine. Gender differences are readily apparent. The German Shepherd Dog should be evaluated as an all-around working dog, and exaggerations or faults should be penalized in proportion to how much they interfere with the dogs ability to work. Disqualifications: Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Characteristics The German Shepherd Dog is confident and fearless, willing to be approached, yet a certain level of aloofness towards strangers is acceptable. When working, the German Shepherd is alert and eager, adapting well to new tasks. Lack of confidence is a serious defect in the character of a German Shepherd. The structure of this breed was designed for efficient locomotion, particularly at the trot, so poor movement is another serious fault. Disqualifications: Viciousness or extreme shyness. Head The head is proportional to the size of the dog, and cleanly chiseled. Males should appear masculine without coarseness; and females feminine without being overly fine. The skull and muzzle are of equal length, parallel to one another, and joined at a very slight stop. There is little or no median furrow. In males, the skull is slightly wider than it is long; in females, the skull is slightly narrower. Viewed from the front, the skull tapers evenly from the ears toward the muzzle. The cheeks are just slightly rounded but do not protrude. In profile, the bridge of the muzzle is straight and parallel to the topline of the skull. Lips are tight and darkly pigmented. Faults: Muzzle too short, blunt, weak, pointed, or overlong. Faults: Overshot or level mouth; missing first premolars. Serious Fault: Missing teeth other than first premolars. Disqualifications: Undershot; wry mouth. The nose must be black. Disqualification: Nose that is not predominantly black. EYES The eyes are as dark as possible, of medium size, almond-shaped, and set slightly obliquely. Expression is alert, calm, and intelligent. Eye rims are dark. Fault: Protruding eyes. EARS Ears are erect, moderately pointed, of medium size, broad at the base, and set high. Ear leather is firm. When the dog is alert, the centerlines of the ears, viewed from the front, are perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other. Disqualifications: Cropped ears; drop or tipped ears. Neck The neck is relatively long but strong and muscular. The skin is tight. The German Shepherd Dog normally carries the head just a little higher than the shoulders, particularly when moving. Forequarters The shoulder blades are long, well muscled, well laid back, and laid flat to the body. The upper arms, also long and well muscled, join the shoulder blade at nearly a right angle. A straight line drawn from the withers to the ground should pass just behind the back of the foreleg. The pasterns are strong and supple, sloping no more than 25 degrees. The elbows are neither close to the body nor out, but are set on a plane parallel to the body. The length of the forelegs should be just slightly more than half the height of the dog, measured at the withers. Serious Faults: Pasterns slanted more than 25 degrees. Pasterns so long and weak that proper movement is compromised. Body A properly proportioned German Shepherd Dog is longer measured from prosternum to point of buttocks than tall measured from the withers to the ground in a ratio of 10 to 9. The length is derived from proper construction of forequarters and hindquarters and not from length of back. The line of the back slopes downward from the withers into a straight, strongly developed, and relatively short back. Ribs are long and extend well back, resulting in a short, broad loin. The croup is long and slightly sloping. Viewed from the front, the chest is deep and well filled. From the side, the forechest extends in front of the forelegs and the brisket down to the elbows. Tuck-up is moderate. Faults: Barrel ribs; ribs too flat; long loin. Serious Faults: Any measure of a roached back. Shelly appearance. Hindquarters Viewed from the side, the hindquarters are broad and muscular. The angulation of the hindquarters is in balance with the angulation of the forequarters. The rear pastern is short and strong, and should remain upright and functional. Powerful hindquarters are necessary to enable the effortless movement that is an essential feature of this breed. Rear pasterns should remain upright and functional. Serious Faults: Over-angulated rear, with anything exaggerated beyond a mild slope. Rear pasterns so long and weak that proper movement is compromised. Feet Feet are round and tight, with toes well arched. Pads are thick and hard. Nails are strong and dark. Front dewclaws may be removed but are normally left intact. Removal of rear dewclaws is preferred but not mandatory. The feet should recoil cleanly from each stride. Serious Fault: Feet that drag along the ground on recoil. Tail The tail is set on low in a natural extension of the unexaggerated, slightly sloping croup. The tail extends at least to the hock joint. When the dog is relaxed, the tail hangs in a slight curve, like a saber. When the dog is excited or moving, the tail may be raised and the curve accentuated but the tail is never carried above a vertical line extending from its base. The coat on the tail stands outward, giving the tail a bushy appearance. Dogs with docked or altered tails resulting from working injuries are not to be penalized. Faults: A slight hook in the tail to the extent it mars the dogs general appearance. Serious Faults: Tail too short; ankylosis. Coat The German Shepherd Dog is double coated. The outer coat lies close to the body and is dense and straight with harsh texture. A slight wave is acceptable in a particularly harsh coat. The undercoat is short, dense, and fine-textured. The coat on the body is of medium length but not so long as to detract from the dogs ability to withstand bad weather conditions. The coat is shorter on the head including the inside of the ear , the legs, and the feet. The coat on the neck is longer and thicker, forming a slight ruff, particularly on some males. The hair on the back of the legs is longer and thicker, forming trousers on the hindquarters, and extending to the pasterns in front and the hock joint behind. Serious Faults: Short, mole type coat; long coat that stands away from the body; soft coat; absence of undercoat. Strong, rich colors are preferred. Small white marks in colored dogs on the chest or tips of the toes are permissible. Nose, lips, and eye rims must have dark pigment, regardless of coat color. Disqualification: Panda characterized by white markings on the muzzle, chest, legs, neck and tip of the tail , pale, washed-out colors, piebald, brindle, blue, or liver. Height Desirable height at maturity for males is 24 to 26 inches; for females, 22 to 24 inches. Gait Absolute soundness of movement is paramount. Correct gait is an essential feature of the German Shepherd Dog. When trotting, it moves with a long, effortless, efficient stride that is driven by a powerful forward thrust from the hindquarters. The rear leg, moving forward, swings under the foreleg and touches down in front of the point where the forefoot left an imprint. The result is that one rear leg passes outside its corresponding front leg and the other passes inside its corresponding front leg. This is a breed characteristic and should not be penalized as long as the body is straight in relationship to the direction of movement. As the rear leg moves backward, the body is propelled forward. The front and rear feet remain close to the ground throughout. When trotting, the back remains firm and level with no superfluous vertical movement. Hocks should be strong and straight, turning neither in nor out as the dog moves. There should be no visible wobble to the hock. Neither front nor rear pasterns should strike the ground; this is an unacceptable exaggeration and an indication of incorrect movement. As the speed of the trot increases, there is a tendency to single track. Correct movement and soundness must be evaluated from front and rear as well as the side. Serious Faults: Any fault that affects correct movement. Disqualifications A dog with a Disqualification must not be considered for placement in a conformation event, and must be reported to UKC. Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid.

Vocality level 4 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. Temperament Few breeds so richly deserve their popularity as does the Labrador Retriever. When trained, the breed is obedient and amiable and tolerates the antics of children, other dogs, and other pets. The Lab is a calm house dog, playful yard dog, and intense field dog, all on the same day. Labs are eager to please, enjoys learning, and excel in obedience. It is a powerful breed that loves to swim and retrieve. Labradors need daily physical and mental challenges to keep occupied. A bored Lab can get into trouble! Upkeep Labradors are active and sociable dogs. They need daily exercise, preferably in the form of retrieving and swimming. Owners with swimming pools either must fence them out or be prepared to share the pool with dogs. The Lab coat sheds water easily. Weekly brushing is needed to remove dead hair. Health Major concerns: CHD, elbow dysplasia, OCD, obesity, patellar luxation Minor concerns: cataract, CPRA, hot spots, retinal dysplasia, hypothyroidism Occasionally seen: diabetes, entropion, distichiasis, tricuspid valve dysplasia, centronuclear myopathy, exercise-induced collapse Suggested tests: hip, elbow, eye, exercise-induced collapse DNA , centronuclear myopathy , knee Life span: 10—12 years History The original Labradors were all-purpose water dogs originating in Newfoundland, not Labrador. Not only did the breed not originate in Labrador, but it also was not originally called the Labrador Retriever. These dogs—medium-sized black dogs with close hair—not only retrieved game but also retrieved fish, pulled small fishing boats through icy water and helped the fisherman in any task involving swimming. Eventually, the breed died out in Newfoundland in large part because of a heavy dog tax. However, a core of Labradors had been taken to England in the early s, and it is from these dogs, along with crosses to other retrievers, that the breed continued. It was also in England that the breed earned its reputation as an extraordinary retriever of upland game. Initially, black labs were favored over yellow or chocolate colors. By the early s, the other colors had become more accepted. The popularity of this breed has grown steadily until the Labrador Retriever became the most popular breed in America in and remains so today. Related Content. Life Span Did You Know? There is a reason that year after year, the Labrador Retriever is the most popular dog breed in the United States. The history of the Labrador Retriever dates back to the early s in Newfoundland, just off the Atlantic coast of Canada. Had these families not played a vital part in the continuation of the breed, the loving and affectionate Labs we have all grown to love may not exist today. The first recognized Yellow Labrador Retriever was born in .One of the friendliest breeds out there, Yellow Labs are great companions and love to be a part of the family. While the color yellow is part of their namesake, their coats range from fawn or cream to butterscotch or a deep golden hue. Coming into popularity during the midth century, the Yellow Labrador Retriever has been a staple for hunters and family homes alike ever since. These dogs are patient and kind when faced with energetic young ones. Yellow Labs delight in big spaces, opting to run and play wildly. However, they will happily lounge on the couch after having a long, hard run outside. When given a little training, they can easily learn to control barking habits and restrain themselves from digging. Their double coat also makes them a good fit for just about any climate. As with most dogs, they are sensitive to extreme heat or cold. Generally speaking, Labradors are healthy. They can develop certain inherent conditions, along with cataracts and kneecap displacement, but will remain healthy overall. As long as they are taken to their vet appointments with regularity, Labs will usually feel just fine. Yellow Labs are loyal companions with few drawbacks. Treats never hurt, of course. This, paired with their eagerness to please, makes them a highly trainable dog breed that is a good fit for owners of any experience level. With minimal training, these dogs can control their barking and digging without much trouble. Labs have very short, double-layered, and water-resistant fur. Its density protects them from the cold, so they will often try to swim any time of year. They experience heavier seasonal shedding twice a year and slight shedding throughout the year. Giving them a good brush once a week or a few times a week should keep their coats shiny and healthy. Other grooming tasks include nail trimming, ear care, and dental care. Proper dental care for dogs includes brushing their teeth or using an enzyme toothpaste every day. This helps prevent the tartar buildup that causes dental diseases like gum disease and tooth decay. You can also supplement your dental care efforts with dental hygiene chews, a special dental care diet, and more. This breed tends to be very active. They were bred to be working dogs and need exercise. A few daily walks and some time to run should help assuage their energy levels. Yellow Labs also need a fair amount of mental activity as well; they like to stay sharp. Yellow Labs are classified as medium to large dogs. They reach an average height of 23 inches and an average healthy weight of 75 pounds. A Yellow Labrador Retriever generally lives years. It was traditional in Newfoundland for every fishing boat to have a Labrador Retriever that would help retrieve the fish as they came in off the trawl. Featured Yellow Labrador Retriever Article.

Winston demonstrates eagerness to please and loves to spend time training. Lee and family do such a great job socializing their pups that Winston acclimated to our household of 3 cats and a 6 year old labradoodle within hours! He is a very loving little guy and clearly had a great start at Berkshire Poodles! Could not have made a better choice in breed of dog and breeder. After only a little over 2 weeks she has blossomed into such a sweetheart. She has continued to amaze me with her intelligence. She was going in and out of crate after 3 days and now I have her actually jumping up at string of bells on door and barking to go out. She has not had an accident in the house in over 5 days. Thank you Lee, for such a wonderful companion. She walked on the leash pretty much like she had been doing it all her life! Got her home and she adapted so quickly! What an awesome pup! Lee and his wife were so kind and accommodating we couldn't ask for a better transition! Would recommend this breeder to anyone looking for a great poodle! They obviously love their dogs! Crystal Dewey We really had a good experience with Lee and his father in regards to picking out our puppy and having the information and local references we needed about her health and care. She was an adorable puppy and has turned into a well behaved loving member of the family. She's a beautiful dog too and gets compliments everywhere we go. Ginny Our Pally, now nine months old, is a delight in every way. She is smart, curious and very affectionate. She is never aggressive with anyone, human or canine; she just loves to be companionable and learn new things about the world. She has one weakness: socks. But if you keep your sock drawer closed, she is a practically perfect poodle. Get in touch. Berkshire Poodles. Questions about Poodle puppies for sale in Massachusetts? We have answers. Give me an overview of Poodle puppies for sale in Massachusetts. Miniature Poodle puppies for sale in Massachusetts price varies based on several things—size, coat color, and breeder experience, etc. Uptown will pair you with mini Poodle puppies for sale Massachusetts, as well as Massachusetts Poodles that fit your budget, too! Do your breeders arrange travel for Boston Poodles out of state? They sure do! Most of the companies and Massachusetts Poodle breeders in our network are really good at moving Massachusetts Poodles out of state and all over the country, and can send your Massachusetts Poodle puppies for sale by plane to a major airport near you. Because our network is expanding, there is a chance a Poodle breeder could be in the area! How do you screen miniature Poodle breeders in Boston? We make sure your puppy is healthy and well by having strict standards with regards to the place that they are born, how they are cared for, breeder experience, and much more. Why is Uptown Puppies different from other miniature Poodle breeders Boston? Although the internet makes it a cinch to locate puppies, it is also easy for dishonest breeders, as well as puppy mills to do a lot of damage. We have one mission—to help the honest miniature Poodle breeders Massachusetts, companies and businesses get found by people like you, and place a beautiful Poodle pup in your home. What is a puppy mill like for miniature Poodle Boston? Honest breeding centers do exist and are a wonderful place. Puppy mills are not ethical places. Countless sick puppies are born there. Puppy mill dogs, such as miniature Poodle Massachusetts, often have serious health as well as behavioral problems that cost owners thousands upon thousands more than properly raised dogs—and also pass away young. Are there any miniature Poodle puppies Boston for sale now? Are you interested in getting a Poodle or miniature Poodle puppies Massachusetts for sale? Well, you can start the process by searching below! What kind of dogs are mini Poodle puppies Boston? People debate over the origins of Poodles as they hail from either Germany or France. They are ever popular at pedigree dog shows - especially the large Standard Poodles as they look so elegant once they are trimmed and groomed. Mini Poodle puppies Massachusetts are skillful in a whole lot of dog sports. How do I know I can trust you with miniature Poodle puppies in Boston? Unfortunately, online puppy scams are as common as anything. Look at our reviews and recent miniature Poodle puppies in Massachusetts to see how great a choice Upwork is for you!

You should cover the table in a towel in case there is any spillage. Let the puppy lie down on all fours so that it is lying on its belly with its front legs outstretched and its back legs tucked up under it. Put a drop of the formula on the inside of your wrist to make sure that it is lukewarm and not too hot. Hold the puppy's head firmly in between your index finger and thumb so that your fingers are located at the corners of the puppy's mouth. Tip the head slightly upward so that you can see what you are doing. Hold the end of the tube on the puppy's tongue and let it taste a drop of the milk. Doing this will help coat the esophagus and get her ready to eat. You will not want to go too slowly or else the pup may gag. Guide the tube over the tongue and down into the back of the throat. You will know you are on the right track when the puppy starts swallowing the tube. If it coughs or gags, remove the tube and try again. Stop feeding the tube downward once the marked part of the tube reaches the pup's mouth. Check to make sure that the pup is not coughing, crying or gagging. If she is not, secure the tube by placing it between your index and middle fingers. Put a small amount of water in the tube to check if your puppy coughs or gags. If it's fine, attach the food syringe to the tube. If your puppy coughs, take out the tube and start over since the food could go into the puppy's lungs. After securing the feeding tube, depress the plunger of the syringe and feed the puppy 1 cc or ml at a time. To know when to let the puppy rest between cc's, count to 3 seconds in your head while slowly depressing the plunger. After the 3 seconds, check to see if there is any milk coming out of the puppy's nose. If there is, withdraw the tube as this means that the puppy is choking. After you have checked, depress the syringe for 3 more seconds. Hold the syringe perpendicular to the puppy for the most efficient feeding method. Once all of the milk has been fed to the puppy, slowly remove the tube. To do this, gently pull it out while still holding the puppy's head. Once the tube has been removed, place your pinky in the puppy's mouth and let it suck on your finger for 5 to 10 seconds. Doing this ensures that the puppy will not throw up. If possible, bring the puppy to its mother. Its mother will lick the puppy's anus, which will help the puppy to defecate. If the puppy is an orphan newborn, use a wet washcloth or cotton ball to simulate the mother's licking. Doing this is very important, as defecating will help the puppy remove any waste dammed up in its intestines. To do this, lift the puppy and stroke its belly. If it is very firm, it has gas or bloating. If this is the case, you will need to burp the puppy. To do this, lift the puppy by placing your palm under her belly and lifting up. Stroke its back and rump to help it burp. After the 5 days are up, feed the puppy every 3 hours. How to hand feed newborn puppies How to hand feed newborn puppies Samantha Scully Saturday, July 2, IntroductionNewborn puppies may need to be hand fed for a variety of reasons including maternal death, rejection by the bitch, prematurity, infection or congenital abnormalities such as macroglossia enlarged tongue. Traditionally, a bottle and teat has been used to feed puppies but this is not suitable for very sick or premature neonates. Eye droppers can result in aspiration pneumonia and should never be used. This article describes how to tube feed a puppy and then progress onto a modified version of the traditional bottle feeding. The techniques described in this article are also suitable for kittens and most other mammals. In the author's opinion these losses could be minimised by early intervention. Puppies should be weighed every 24 hours at the same time of day to identify those individuals failing to thrive. Certain circumstances dictate hand rearing the whole litter whereas, in other situations, only one puppy may require assistance. It may not always be clear what the problem is initially but the main point is to intervene quickly. If a puppy lacks the suck reflex, then feeding by a tube placed into the oesophagus at each feed is the only option of providing nutrition via the gut. To test for a suck reflex, a clean finger is introduced into the puppy's mouth; a strong heathy puppy should latch on and suck the finger fairly strongly. Puppies often lack the suck reflex if they are premature, immature, hypothermic or hypoglycaemic. Tube feeding is useful but should only be used when needed as there is a risk of placing the tube into the trachea rather than into the oesophagus. This risk increases as the puppy becomes stronger and more active. Tube feeding should only be necessary for a few days at most. Exceptions to this are puppies with abnormalities such as cleft palate and macroglossia. Tube feeding can be used to give oral rehydration solutions or milk substitute formula. Milk substitute formula is contraindicated in hypothermic and premature puppies Williams, ; Bloomfield, as they are unable to digest milk or milk substitute. In these puppies electrolyte solutions are advised which provide hydration, electrolytes and some calories in the form of glucose without requiring digestion. If the suck reflex is present then teat and syringe feeding is the method of choice. It is safer once the puppy is strong enough to suckle and most people find it easier than the traditional teat and bottle feeding. Feeding using a dropper bottle is not advised and often results in inhalation pneumonia Bloomfield, .Orogastric tube feeding Equipment: Appropriately-sized feeding tube. Urinary catheters are not advised as these are too hard and can damage the oesophagus. Appropriately-sized syringes. Generally, a 2. These will need replacing every few days as they become sticky with repeated use and placing in cold sterilisation solution between feeds. Surgical tape for marking the length of tube. Pair of scissors for cutting the tape. Washing up liquid for washing the equipment after use and for flushing the tube several times. Tupperware filled with prepared cold water sterilising solution to flush the tube after washing. The tube can be left in the solution between feeds. Before each use the tube should be flushed with clean water followed by a syringe full of air before drawing up the warmed feed. The solution should be changed every 24 hours. Figure 1. Tube feeding equipment. Ideally each puppy should have its own tube. Measuring the tube The tube must be measured and marked before placing into the puppy. Every few days, as the puppy grows, the tube should be remeasured. Then, with the puppy in a natural lateral position, the rest of the tube length should be laid along the lateral chest, up the neck and measured to the mouth. Fingers should be placed on the tube where the mouth and tube meet and a piece of surgical tape wrapped around the tube at this point. During feeding, the end of the tube should be sitting in the oesophagus just proximal to the stomach. Figure 2. Measuring the tube. Placing the feeding tube The feed should be warmed to body temperature 37oC and the required volume drawn up into the syringe. Any air present in the syringe should be expelled. The syringe can then be connected to the feeding tube and the plunger pressed until a small drop of feed comes out of the end of the tube. This drop of feed can be used to lubricate the tube as it passes into the mouth and down into the oesophagus. During feeding the puppy should be placed on a warm, non-slip surface. If the puppy's neck is extended or flexed, it is much harder to place the tube correctly into the oesophagus. The tube should glide easily from the mouth and into the oesophagus Figures 3 and 4. Once the surgical tape marker is at the puppy's lips the tube should be in the correct position. Figure 3. Palate cross section indicating the route of the feeding tube into the oesophagus. Figure 4. Placing the feeding tube. Gliding the tube along the tongue will introduce the tube into the trachea. Attempting to place the tube with the neck flexed will also make tracheal entry more likely. Puppies under 10 days of age and weak puppies requiring tube feeding usually do not have the cough reflex one would normally expect if the tube enters the trachea Macintire, .Tube placement can be checked by pinching the puppy's ear; if strong enough, the puppy should be able to give a loud squeal. If it gags or chokes, the tube should be withdrawn. It is important to note that a weak or very young puppy may not react. Once the tube is placed correctly fingers are used to hold the tube in place during feeding Figure 5. Failing to hold the tube in place will permit the tube to work its way back up the oesophagus during feeding and risk the feed entering the lungs. The syringe plunger is depressed slowly at a rate of one millilitre over 10 seconds. The tube should be left in situ for two seconds before removing in one smooth, swift movement. Figure 5. Holding the tube in place during feeding. If it has taken a few attempts to place the tube the feed in the syringe and the tube may need to be re-heated. Teat and syringe feeding Once a suck reflex is present, teat and syringe feeding is particularly useful for small and weak puppies as, by depressing the syringe plunger slowly, feeding is aided and the puppy does not need to expend so much energy obtaining its feed. Using a closed system in this way also helps avoid the puppy taking in air, which often happens when using a bottle. Figure 6. Catac teats. There are three different sizes of Catac teats. The ST1 long and thin is best for very small puppies and fits directly onto a syringe. The puppy only takes the tip of the teat into its mouth. The ST2 teat with a ridge suits most small to medium-breed puppies at birth; the puppy takes the teat up to the ridge into the mouth. The largest ST3 teat suits large and giant-breed puppies at birth in addition to smaller breeds moving on from the ST2 as they grow. Figure 7. Adaptations to fit teats to syringes. From left to right: the end of an ST1 Catac teat, the cut-off hub from an intravenous catheter, the cut-down attachment end from a feeding tube. The syringe attachment end is cut off and placed onto the syringe before placing the feeding teat over the top. It is worth keeping old teats for this purpose. Similarly, the hub from an intravenous catheter or the hub from an old feeding tube can be used in the same manner. Teats The teats are blind ending when purchased and so a hole needs to be made in the end. It can take some practice to make a hole small enough and there may be a few wasted teats in the beginning. For this reason it is always advisable to purchase more than is initially thought necessary. A hole can be made using a small pair of fine, sharp scissors. The hole needs to be much smaller than would be used for bottle feeding. The hole size can be tested with a syringe of water; a small squirt of water needs to come out of the teat in a constant flow as the syringe plunger is depressed. It should not drip out of the teat. When ready to feed the required warmed volume of feed can be drawn up in the syringe and the teat attached with an adapter if required. The end of the teat is dipped into some warmed feed to encourage the puppy to accept and latch onto the teat. As with tube feeding, the puppy is placed on a warm, non-slip surface for feeding. Using the thumb and forefinger of one hand gentle pressure is applied to the corners of the mouth to make the puppy open its jaws. The forefinger is then used to wedge the mouth open while the teat is introduced into the mouth. The thumb and forefinger remain either side of the mouth to help the puppy stay on the teat if needed. The puppy should be held on the non-slip surface during the feed with the mouth, teat and syringe all kept in a level plane. The puppy should never be held on its back. As the puppy sucks from the teat, the puppy can be aided if necessary by slowly and smoothly depressing the syringe plunger Figure 8. Pulling the teat gently away from the puppy can encourage the puppy to latch on. The puppy may take a little time to accept the teat, but will improve after a few feeds. Sometimes a change of teat size and shape helps acceptance. Figure 8. Teat and syringe feeding. Conclusion Training and competency with the hand feeding techniques described in this article is a useful addition to a veterinary nurses's repertoire. Tube feeding can truly be a lifesaving technique and, once mastered, can be applied to many different species. It can seem daunting at first but is relatively straightforward providing the instructions given above are adhered to. Teat and syringe feeding is a natural follow on from tube feeding and helps weaker neonates get to grips with teat feeding. Key Points Tube feeding is extremely useful but should only be used when absolutely needed. A size 3FG or 4FG is suitable for most breeds of puppies and the tube should be re-measured every few days as the puppy grows. As soon as the puppy has a suck reflex teat and syringe feeding can be used and is a useful technique to help weaker puppies progress with suckling. An eye dropper or a syringe without a teat should never be used to feed a puppy. Sign up to The Veterinary Nurse's regular newsletters and keep up-to-date with the very latest clinical research and CPD we publish each month. Sign up. Feeding tube, silicon or red rubber feeding tube 8 to 14 French 3. Permanent magic marker 4. Syringe of appropriate size with catheter tip 10 or 60 cc 5. Puppy scale — feed at a rate of 20 cc per 16 oz of body weight. Repeat every 3 to 6 hours, based on pups condition. Steps 1. Establish a well-lit warm location where you can hold the pup comfortably and all materials are within reach. Be attentive and do not rush. On a safe surface, hold the pup with the neck extended. Hold the tapered end of the feeding tube even with the last rib of the largest pup to be fed. Warm the formula to body temperature in a warm water bath — avoid microwaving. Attach the syringe to the feeding tube. With the pup fully awake, warm over 96 degrees F rectal temp lying horizontally on the chest, gently pass the tube over the center of the pups tongue, applying gentle pressure to slide the tube up to the mark. If resistance is met, remove tube and start over. With your left hand if you are right handed, cup your left hand around the back of the pups head and hold the tube between your index and middle finger to prevent it from moving out of the correct position while feeding. If the pup vocalizes, the tube placement is correct and you can proceed with feeding. Repeat for each pup. Wash syringe and tube with hot soapy water and allow to air dry until next feeding. Stimulate the external anal and urinary orifices to effect defecation and urination with a warm moistened cotton ball or washcloth. Thanks to Dr. The early care and environment of the French Bulldog newborn puppy are very important. Reasons a French Bulldog puppy might die early on are usually due to difficult whelping, congenital or genetic defects, environmental factors i. However, the following formula is cheaper and provides all the nutrition. Many use it instead of evaporated milk — both can be found in the bakery section of your grocery store. If this seems to be, change to bottled water to make the formula. Keeping the litter box tempature between degrees with no drafts for the first few days is usually adequate. Other sources of warmth can be heating pads or heat lamps. If using a heating pad, monitor the intensity of heat, as pups have been known to cook on pads set on high settings! There are many excellent heat lamps on the market, but remember that caution is needed. Heat lamps have been known to start fires! The temperature on the French Bulldog puppies 1 inch above the bottom of the box should be about degrees with a corner that is slightly cooler and allow them to scoot to wherever they like best. There should also be plenty of clean blankets, as this will allow for regulation of temperature. Hydration is one of the most important things to monitor in new Frenchie pups, as it can be one of the first signs of problems. Check hydration by by pinching the skin on the back of the neck or on the top of the back. If the pinched skin stays creased, the French Bulldog puppy is dehydrated and needs fluid replacement. Dehydration can either be a result of inadequate nourishment, too much heat, or sickness. It is strongly suggested that you use regular newborn or infant bottles and nipples. The ones available for purchase for cats, dogs, ferrets, etc. Bottle feeding is far more preferable. The sucking on a nipple, the handling and holding of the French Bulldog puppy is so very important to their overall development. The French Bulldog puppy should be held with his head upwards and his body and tail down in a 45 to 90 degreee angle when bottle feeding. If French Bulldog puppies and their blankets are not kept clean, it is very easy to come down with a staph infection and diarrhea — which is serious, as Frenchie puppies can go downhill quickly. As mentioned before, it is equally serious if the French Bulldog puppies get chilled so avoid drafts. Even if you have them in a basket with a heating pad, you need to cover the basket with a towel to keep out drafts. A chilled French Bulldog puppy must be warmed up. There are lots of little ways to accomplish it. Priority should be to get the Frenchie puppy warmed up slowly. Newborn French Bulldog puppies cannot regulate their body temperature or body functions like urinating and stools. It is important that they are pottied at each feeding. They might not have a stool each time, but they will urinate. This is what the mother does when she licks them. After that, she will become a good mommy. Some might start off being good, then after a few days, or even a couple of weeks, not want to be bothered and might even be nasty to the puppies such as snapping and biting them. Always be careful and watch. If the mother will not clean the babies, you must be sure to do it. Using a kleenex, gently rub the area to stimulate their potty. Then be sure to clean them well. Make sure to check them even if the mother cleans them. Often the stool will get stuck to the tail and be dry. If that happens, or if the French Bulldog puppy seems to be straining and constipated, try the following: Run warm water in the sink slowly. Put a drop of soap on their behinds, and wash and massage their behinds; it will get the tail and poop unstuck, clean them up, and cause them to potty very well. If the little bottoms are red and sore, use some Desitin ointment. You may see green puppy stools and stools that have an appearance of bunches of tiny seeds. If all else seems normal, this seems to be harmless and short-lived. However, watery diarrhea can be very serious if left unchecked. Diarrhea together with vomiting usually means infection. It should be broken into feedings every 2 hours 5cc per feeding. If it is a good sized Frenchie puppy 1 lb. Towards the end of a week, you should increase the food needed to about cc or more. For the first week they should eat every two hours. If they are good size Frenchie babies, you can sometimes go longer. An average weight for newborn French Bulldog puppies is around ounces. Good size puppies are oz. You bred your Frenchie bitch. You got her through two months of pregnancy. Now you have puppies. The panic sets in. What have you done? What do you do next? Once you get the mother and puppies home, the work is just beginning. Enjoy the brief flush of satisfaction from the accomplishment. There is lots left to do. Is it covered to protect the pups from drafts? Once it is warm, put the newborn puppies inside. Consider this the First Commandment: Keep the puppies warm! For the first few hours, the mother will be weak and disoriented from surgery. If she has lost a lot of blood, she may even be in shock. She needs to be kept comfortable and warm, too. But one warning: Do not leave her alone with the puppies until you are certain she has recovered. Because of the surgery, some mothers have difficulty recognizing that the puppies are theirs. She should be introduced to them gently, and allowed to smell them and lick them. As soon as possible, lay her down in the whelping box which should be warm and protected and put the new puppies on her to feed. Initially, they may have to be coaxed to attach to a nipple. It is extremely important that they get some of the colostrum, the yellowish pre-milk that the mother will secrete at first. It is loaded with antibodies the puppies need to establish their immune systems. The Second Commandment is: Keep the puppies fed. The puppies should be encouraged to feed as often as possible. They should definitely feed once every two hours during the initial days. They will quickly gain strength and seek out the mother on their own once everyone has settled into a routine. Once the mother has recognized her puppies, she should begin to lick them and clean them. This is the Third Commandment: Keep their digestive tracts functioning. If she is not licking them, you will have to substitute. Rather than doing it exactly as she would, the best way is to use cotton balls moistened with warm water. Rub gently underneath to make them urinate, and behind to make them defecate. This should be done following each feeding. Keeping the digestive tract functioning involves the simple rule: put something in, something comes out. If the elimination of waste stops, the puppy will cease feeding, and will quickly start to waste away. If the puppy becomes chilled, the digestive tract almost always shuts down. In every litter, there will be stronger, larger more dominant puppies. They will feed more vigorously, and will tend to push the other puppies away. This becomes a serious problem with a larger litter. If necessary, move any dominant pups to one side to allow the others ample opportunity to feed. During the first twenty-four hours, the mother should not be left unattended with her puppies. She will still be weak and disoriented. She may accidentally lay on a pup or step on it. If she becomes frightened, she might bite or injure one. If you are right there, you can reassure her. You can also intervene if something goes wrong. You will have to be there anyway, as the pups will need to feed the moment your eyelids get heavy. One can get some rest while the other holds vigil. Otherwise, you will learn why it is said that sleep deprivation is the most successful form of torture. The yellowish colostrum will be replaced by pure white. And quantity should increase. You should notice a gradual change in the puppies. From a somewhat wrinkled appearance, they should start to plump up. Their tummies will start to become engorged after each feeding. If the mother is licking and cleaning the puppies, and is allowing them to feed, all is well. You can relax, somewhat. Some mothers take several days to settle into motherhood. If that is the case, clean the puppies regularly to stimulate elimination. As the puppies grow, they will learn to eliminate without stimulus. But if they are not cleaned, their little tails can end up stuck to their behinds. If you are remiss and allow that to happen, you will have to dissolve and dislodge the mess so they can eliminate. And it can set up like epoxy. Use warm water and cotton, and work at it as gently as you can. It may take some time. If the mother is reluctant to clean the pups, hold them up to her to show her what she needs to do. Once shown a messy pup, most mothers will relent and start to lick. Occasionally, the opposite syndrome will occur. A mother will clean too eagerly, resulting in raw, chafed little butts. If the pups are crying inordinately, this is a possible cause. Petroleum jelly for the chafing, or neomycin ointment will help ease the discomfort. Call your vet immediately and have her checked. In the meantime, you will have to bottle feed. Do not allow the pups to go hungry for long. Once they become weak, it will be difficult to get them to feed. There are many recipes around for substitute milk to feed them. Nowadays, a simple expedient is to buy prepared milk substitute for puppies. All you have to do is heat it to the right temperature and use it. The containers have complete directions. Bottles and nipples designed specifically for feeding puppies are available. Using newborn infant bottles and nipples should substitute nicely. If the puppies are older, you may have to widen the opening in the nipple to afford greater flow. As with breast feeding, bottle feeding needs to be done every two to four hours. Make sure each puppy gets enough. If they are not feeding well, give them smaller meals more often. If you have to bottle feed, be very careful. Because of their flat faces, it is easy for the puppies to aspirate milk. That can go one of two ways. When puppies feed too vigorously, milk will come out their nose. Be sure to clear it out completely, as it can cause infection. It can also be aspirated later into the lungs. The greatest risk with bottle feeding is that the puppy will aspirate milk directly into the lungs. If you take your time, and hold the puppy flat enough, this should not occur. If it does, you can tell by the rattling sound as the puppy breathes. Go directly to the vet. This is where a flexible plastic tube is inserted carefully down the throat so that the milk can be placed directly in the stomach. If done improperly, tube feeding puts the milk directly into the lung. Most important in this technique is to have a tube cut to exactly the right length. You need to measure how far the tube needs to go to reach the stomach. Tube feeding is best left to experts. Learning how to tube feed is best done with somebody experienced in the technique. Once the technique is learned, though, it is much faster and more efficient than bottle feeding. It is also the technique of last resort if a puppy is too weak to feed voluntarily. As the puppies grow and feed, they will become stronger and more active. They will more readily seek out the mother themselves. Although their eyes are not open, they can find her by smell and touch sometimes they seem totally lost , and by her body heat. The whole foreface is a complex of sensoria designed to find the mother, determine where a nipple is, and even to detect which is their regular nipple. You can start to relax a little more. If all goes well, the puppies should open their eyes around the tenth day. At first, their eyes will look scary and vacant when they open. Their ability to focus comes later. Frenchies take more time than other breeds to come up onto their rear legs. I have seen greyhound puppies on their feet before their eyes even open! But they should begin to get up on their front legs somewhere around the second week. They need a surface with good traction to get up on. Remnant carpet pieces work well. Slippery surfaces will make it hard for them to strengthen the pelvic muscles that hold the rear legs in position. Infections, viruses, congenital defects can all cause puppies to sicken and die. The mother can step or lay on a puppy and unintentionally cause injury or death. Amazingly, most puppies make it through. Somewhere between four and six weeks of age, the puppies will need to be weaned. If you are slow in starting them on solid food, the mother will let you know. Once the puppies start to develop teeth, her desire to let them feed declines precipitously. There are commercial products available, and most serious breeders have their own recipes for mush to give to puppies. The most important thing to remember is that it needs to be soft enough that they can lap it up at first. One simple alternative is to purchase good quality dry puppy food with a complete array of vitamins and minerals and pulverize it in a blender. Keep thinning it until it is just capable of being poured. Then warm it a microwave oven works well to about body temperature. Thin it a little more once it is warm, as heating will tend to thicken it. For the first attempt, the final product should be thin enough that the puppies can lap it up. Take the mother out while you are giving them the solid food. It may take some effort to coax them to try it. It can also end up looking like a food fight in a Three Stooges comedy. If they try it, good. They will do better the next day. Once you are done, let the mother back in to clean up the remaining food. She should help you with the puppies, but you may have to clean off the messiest of the puppies yourself. Start supplying them water to drink. The solid food will make them thirsty. You should be able to get the puppies to eat the semisolid food in a period of about a week. Once they will accept it readily, you can remove the mother. The puppies will need to be fed around three times a day once they are on their own. Gradually reduce the liquid portion of the food. If they will not accept it, it is too dry. The move to solid food will cause a quantum leap in growth. The puppies should grow less soft and beanbaggy, and should start strengthening up. Their immune systems will need to be built up by the time they are six months old. Talk to your vet to set up an immunization schedule. Suddenly they will look like Frenchies. By this time, you should have strong indications of their personalities, as well. A noisy five-week-old will likely be a vocal adult as well. A loving one or a shy one should correspond similarly. Training can begin somewhere around this stage. It is surprising how much a willing young puppy can learn. Familiarize them with a collar and lead. Teach them proper bathroom etiquette. Make sure that any new owners understand the special care required with bull breeds. They need to know they are indoor-outdoor dogs, and should not be left out at night. New owners should be encouraged to develop a relationship with their vet before any problems occur. Most importantly, let new owners know they can come to you for help if there is any problem with the puppy. You should be able to help them with the simple stuff, and warn them to get to the vet with anything more major. You want the puppies to do well in their new environments. If there was something you were breeding for, did you get it? If there was something you were breeding away from, did you succeed? What other surprise faults and problems came in with the breeding? Once you have done this for half a dozen generations, you should be able to see some trends. Some characteristics will pop up again after a few generations of dormancy. Others will dominate and stay with you no matter what you do. How you handle these characteristics and where you go is all part of what makes you a good breeder. John Niedhamer.