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Labrador Feeding Questions Here are some common questions that Lab owners have when deciding how much to feed their dogs. Can I feed my Labrador once a day? Feeding frequency for dogs, including Labradors, can vary depending on various factors such as age, activity level, and overall health. While some dogs may do well with one meal a day, it is generally recommended to divide their daily food intake into two or more meals. Labradors, in particular, are known to have a tendency to overeat and become overweight. Feeding them once a day can lead to hunger and potentially encourage them to eat too quickly or excessively in one sitting. This can increase the risk of bloating, a potentially life-threatening condition. It also provides a more consistent energy level throughout the day. They can consider factors such as age, weight, activity level, and any underlying health conditions to provide tailored feeding recommendations. How much should I feed my overweight Labrador? Feeding an overweight Labrador requires careful portion control and a balanced diet. This will serve as a reference point for developing a weight loss plan. Choose a high-quality, low-calorie diet: Opt for a balanced dog food that is specifically formulated for weight management. These diets are lower in calories while still providing essential nutrients. Follow portion control: Follow the feeding guidelines provided on the dog food packaging, but keep in mind that these are general recommendations. Your veterinarian can help you determine the appropriate portion size. Monitor treats and table scraps: Limit or eliminate high-calorie treats and table scraps, as they can contribute to weight gain. Consider a gradual weight loss approach: Rapid weight loss is not ideal for dogs and can have negative health effects. This slow and steady approach is healthier and more sustainable. Regular exercise: Along with a controlled diet, regular exercise is essential for weight management. Consult with your veterinarian about appropriate exercise routines for your Labrador, taking into account their current weight and any existing health conditions. Should I feed my Labrador twice a day? Yes, feeding a Labrador twice a day is generally recommended for optimal health and digestion. Splitting their daily food intake into two meals helps to promote better digestion, prevent overeating, and maintain a consistent energy level throughout the day. Labradors have a tendency to overeat and become overweight, so dividing their meals can help control portion sizes and prevent excessive food consumption in one sitting. It also helps to regulate their metabolism and prevent hunger pangs. By feeding your Labrador twice a day, you can provide them with a more balanced and manageable feeding routine. It allows for better absorption of nutrients and reduces the risk of digestive issues such as bloating or stomach discomfort. Foods to Avoid for Labrador Providing leftovers to your Labrador can be harmful to its health because there are some foods that dog parents should avoid giving their dogs. Chocolate is rich in a stimulant known as theobromine, which is somehow similar to caffeine, which is why it is poisonous for the Labrador. The number of stimulants may depend on the type of chocolate. This caffeine-like stimulant directly affects the heart and central nervous system of the Labrador. It may also cause some kidney issues even within 24 hours of eating chocolate. Vomiting, along with diarrhea, is a side effect of chocolate. Many vegetables are highly suitable for the health of Labradors, but onions and garlic are never allowed. Both of these can be toxic even if eaten in small quantities. Therefore, while cooking homemade food for Labradors, you must avoid garlic and onion. Alcohol is another harmful and toxic food item for dogs. If your pup consumes it even in small quantities, it may suffer from vomiting and diarrhea. Moreover, alcoholic beverages also cause depression, a shortage of oxygen, tumors, and blood change. Moldy foods and trash: Bread, nuts, some dairy products, and moldy foods are rich in toxins that cause illness. Take extra precautions to make sure that your Lab cannot access any moldy food. Best Food for Labradors When choosing a food for your Lab, of course cost is an issue. Labs are big dogs that eat a lot of food. Of course we want to spoil our furry friends, but buying the most expensive food on the market is not necessary. In fact, buy a good quality middle-of-the-list food, and even if you can afford more expensive food, put that money away for any unexpected veterinary expenses. Also, counseling the vet before choosing canine food can be a sound methodology for your Labrador retriever. No products found. As always, your veterinarian is a great resource for Lab feeding information. More Lab Information. Following the Labrador feeding chart by age will give you a rough idea of how much to feed your puppy. Labradors are known for their playfulness, and sweet disposition, and are good at fetch which is why you should provide them with the best nutrition to support their growth. Ensure that the food contains the right amounts of protein, carbs, fat, and vitamins. You should avoid feeding your Labrador puppy too much food as they are prone to joint issues, but also avoid feeding them less food as they will be malnourished and not reach their growth milestones. Continue reading to understand how much to feed a Labrador puppy. The amount of food that your Labrador puppy should eat depends on a combination of certain factors such as activity level, weight, type, and brand of food. Heavier and bigger puppies need to eat more food than smaller puppies, and dogs that have active lives will need more calories than those living sedentary life. Fortunately, all dog food contains a feeding guideline on the packaging to get you started. It is important that you create and maintain a feeding schedule for your puppy so that they can maintain a healthy weight and develop good habits. Consult your pet nutritionist or vet, to learn more about how much food you should give your specific Labrador. Labrador Feeding Chart By Age A Labrador can be fed between one and six cups of food depending on their level of activity, age, and type of food. The amount will differ from one puppy to the other as every puppy has there own requirements. Therefore, you should follow a feeding guideline that is indicated in the dog food brands or the one designed by your vet. As a Labrador owner, it is important to understand that the nutritional requirements of your puppy are different at each stage as they grow. Therefore, adult and puppy dogs should be trained to eat the correct amount at the right schedule. Ensure that you keep a Labrador puppy feeding chart with you. Calculating the Resting Energy Requirement RER of your puppy and doubling it can help you get the right number of calories to feed them. Feed your puppy a little amount, in the beginning, to ensure that they are ready to eat. If they are not ready, do not force the food on them. Be patient with your puppy and they will be on puppy food soon. The puppy will be relying less on the milk. When your puppy starts eating all the food you offer them, you can reduce the amount of water and increase the food amount. The puppy will start becoming active and start exploring away from the mother as they no longer rely on the mother. By the end of the week into week seven, the puppy will be able to eat just puppy food. Ensure that you feed them dry food that is full of healthy protein. They should be eating three to four times per day and need about 2 cups of food. Avoid free feeding the puppy as it may be hard to know exactly how much they are eating. Create a feeding schedule as early as possible and this will help them develop good habits in the future. Put the food out for only 10 to 15 minutes and take the bowl away if they do not finish. This can be tricky if you are working but it is important that you maintain their feeding schedule as this is a developmental stage. Three meals per day will help your growing puppy develop their digestive system and ensure that they are getting their nutrition. This is also the beginning of the teething stage and they will be biting a lot of things including hard dog food and chew toys. They should eat about two cups of food distributed over three meals. But you should still maintain feeding them two cups of food but can reduce the mealtimes to twice per day. Watch out for the amount of food your puppy eats to avoid them gaining weight. Also, ensure that they are getting enough exercise to burn off the food. So, you should transition them to adult food. Ensure that the switching process is done slowly to avoid causing vomiting and diarrhea to your puppy. Your Labrador can be fed once per day now and the amount reduced to about two cups of food. Understanding Labrador Puppy Nutritional Needs If you stick to feeding your Labrador high-quality food, be assured that they are getting all the necessary nutrients. However, it is useful to know the types of nutrients that they need and the ingredients to watch out for. Carbohydrates — healthy carbs are necessary for providing energy for your puppy. Sources like barley, rice, and oatmeal are great. Healthy carbs can also be found in veggies such as sweet potatoes, peas, and lentils. Fiber — it helps regulate the digestive system of your puppy and helps the stool become healthier and firm. Sources include spinach, chicory root, and beet pulp. Sources include fish oils, fish, canola oils, and fish. Vitamins and Minerals — are needed for improving the immune system which helps in protecting your puppy from diseases. Veggies and real fruits like cranberries and blueberries are great sources. The frequency of feeding your Labrador depends mostly on their age. Puppies need to eat three to four times per day while senior and adult Labradors can eat one to two times per day. Labrador is a breed that is motivated by food, meaning that the chance of them turning down food is low. Given their nature, it can be difficult to figure out whether they are really hungry or just food obsessed. Since they cannot regulate their eating habits, it is important that you develop a feeding schedule to prevent them from gaining weight. Both types of food provide your dog with the best nutrition they need to grow and develop. Also, check the label on the packaging and make sure that it contains the perfect balance of protein, fats, and carbohydrates. Kibble is cheaper than wet foods and stores easily as it does not require refrigeration. It also helps clean the teeth by removing tartar and buildup when your puppy chews it. Wet food also provides balanced and complete nutrition for your Labrador. It provides more hydration to your puppy as it contains high moisture content. However, wet food needs to be put in the fridge once opened otherwise it will go bad. Some dog owners mix wet food and kibble to give their dogs the best of both worlds. Therefore, most premium dog food brands have different specially formulated puppy food. Puppies can be fed with puppy food until they are about 12 to 15 months old then transition to adult dog food. When transitioning your dog from puppy food to adult dog food remember to introduce the feed gradually for about seven to ten days by mixing small amounts of the adult dog food with the puppy food. Decrease the puppy food gradually every day with a simultaneous increase in adult dog food. This will helps the pup o adjust to the new meal easily. Experienced Labrador Retriever owners will tell you that not all puppies eat a lot. Studies also have indicated that puppies eat more when fed with other puppies or in a group. When the puppy gets to a new home, they might go off the food for the first few days. They might eat a few kibbles and then leave it. Your puppy may also prefer to eat from your hand and not the bowl. However, call your vet if your puppy refuses to eat for more than four hours. Call immediately if your puppy looks unwell. There are a few reasons you need to keep an eye on because they indicate serious problems: Your pup neither drink nor eat Diarrhea. Remember, Labs do not have a natural food intake regulator so you will need to monitor them with portion control. Using a cheaper brand is a poor option at half the price. You will use twice as much and you will have to clean up larger amounts of waste in your yard. To allow for an accurate control of body weight and growth rate, this amount of food can be dispensed over 3 meals per day. After 5 months of age, the feeding regularity can be reduced to two meals per day with the commensurate increase in food quantity. The amount of food a Labrador puppy requires will increase then level out during first 14 months of their life. At months, their bone density is increasing and their growth plates are set. We do not recommend desexing you pup until at least 3 years of age. This allows for an appropriate development and supply of hormone which in turn produces proper bone, muscle and vital organ development. Table foods dispensed randomly to dogs are not nutritionally balanced. We do not offer our dogs table food at all. There will be no problems if you are feeding a puppy with a homemade diet but it should be prepared from prescribed recipes that are nutritionally complete and balanced. Diets consisting of an unplanned and indiscriminate mixture of human foods particularly including carbohydrates will likely result in obesity and even dietary-induced disease. When you Lab reaches 14months of age, it should be given an adult food that contains less energy and calcium. This will decrease the risk of obesity and orthopaedic conditions. And do not feed them coffee or tea as they can contain caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline. These toxic substances can dangerously affect the heart and nervous system. Onions, garlic, raisins and grapes can be severely toxic in labradors. Raw meat is potential source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria for your puppy. Eggs yokes are an excellent source of protein. Raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin a B vitamin. This can, in extreme cease, lead to skin and coat problems. Liver contains higher levels of protein, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. Raw liver can be a source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria. Excessive amounts of liver can cause Vitamin A toxicity. Raw bone chewing will control tartar buildup on a pups teeth. However, bone chewing can cause intestinal blockages and perforations. Never use cooked bones. Commercial Puppy Foods Most commercial puppy foods are designated for small, medium, large and giant breeds. This designation can be found on the label. Puppies of medium sized breeds are less than '25 kg fully grown adult body weight'. A full grown and lean Labrador will usually weigh between 25kg and 45kg. We feed our dogs at the 'lower' level of the recommended range. The 'Hills Body Fat Index' is a very helpful body shape indicator. The same food as the bitch You should feed your new puppy with the same brand of food as the bitch received during lactation. From 2 weeks into pregnancy, our expectant mothers are fed 'Royal Canin Labrador Puppy' food. Introducing a new brand of food If you are wanting to introduce a new brand of food to your puppy, then blend it gradually with the existing brand in increasing amounts over 3 days. This should prevent food rejection and any kind of gastric upset. It is best to choose a diet designed for large breed puppies. Selected commercial feeds should contain a limited percentage of filler compounds. Pawlinglabs uses Royal Canin Labrador as our preferred option. Growing labradors Labrador pups have a very steep growth curve, and their total daily energy needs do increase as they grow. Calculate the amount of puppy food that will satisfy that need. The feeding guidelines on the commercial pet food label provides an estimated quantity of feed for several different ranges in body size. These instructions will give you an estimated starting point for the particular brand. Medium or large? Medium breeds should be transitioned to an adult diet by 12 months of age, while large breeds between 14 — 18 months of age. Mature female labradors are medium and weight approx kg. Mature males are large and weight approx kg. Their calcium and energy content should not exceed that level recommended by a registered nutritionalist. Sound skeletal development Sound skeletal development in labradors is produced by the interaction of genetic, environmental, and nutritional factors. The phase prior to weaning and the growth phase, up to 14 months are integral to sound skeletal structure. Don't take your young pup on extended distance walks and certainly not 'running' until at least 18mths of age. You must avoid stairs and slippery floors for the same reasons. Their growth plates are set at about mths of age. Feeding and Overfeeding Large breeds like Labradors are the most susceptible to skeletal disease. Feed consumption, nutrients balance and feeding methods influence our ability to produce sound skeletal development and eliminate skeletal disease. Appropriate food consumption and nutrition plays a critical role in bone development. Overfeeding will not increase or benefit the growth rate of young and growing labrador puppies. And it does not correlate with optimal adult size. However, it does increase the risk of skeletal abnormalities. The vast majority of skeletal disorders occur in large breeds including labradors and they are associated with consumption of table food and an excessive intake of a commercial food and supplementation. The large breeds like labradors are limited in their ability to cope with an excess of minerals such as calcium. The result of this over consumption is abnormal bone development and skeletal disorders. Nutritional management will be critical in the to prevention of bone and joint diseases. In most cases, skeletal disease can prevented by appropriate quantities of feed in a regulated diet with optimal nutrient levels. A complete and balanced commercial diet is essential. Dietary deficiencies will be of little concern if your labrador pup is fed with a complete and balanced commercial diet. Brands like Eukanuba and Royal Canin are specifically formulated for young, growing labradors. There is real potential for harm by over feeding and giving additional supplementation. Housing safety and activity levels Housing safety and activity levels are under the your influence. Nutrition is also under your control and it is the single most important factor affecting the development of the musculoskeletal system. Energy, protein, and calcium are the critical nutritional components affecting skeletal development. However, if they are given in excess, they will be detrimental to normal bone and joint growth. Most pet owners feed commercial dog food. These prepared diets are balanced and complete. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. Before adopting a Labrador Retriever puppy, many owners go to great lengths to deduce the optimal food for their pup. From raw feed to canned food from a local pet store, there are plenty of dog food options for owners to consider, but which is the best dog food? Whether you feed your puppy a raw food diet or commercial dog foods, there are lots of ways for your pup to consume a balanced diet. There are plenty of sources that will describe the benefits of one diet over another, but remember that no one knows your puppy better than you. The decision to feed your dog a diet that you think is best is yours to make. There really is no right or wrong answer when it comes to selecting a food for your puppy. Your pooch will likely enjoy eating wet food just as much as they enjoy commercial dog food. So long as you feed your pup an adequate amount of food, they are likely to live a long and healthy life. If you would like specific advice about feeding your individual puppy, you may wish to consult with your veterinarian or other dog food expert. When you first bring your puppy home, it can be alarming if your dog does not touch its puppy food during the first few days at home. Is this cause for concern? Noticing that your precious pup is not eating can be a frightening realization. Prior to being welcomed to its forever home, your Lab puppy was accustomed to living with its mother and siblings. Therefore, being uprooted from this life can initially be a startling experience for a dog. Fortunately, puppies should develop an appetite within a day or two of entering their forever home-they just need a short time to adjust to their new life. If, after a few days, your puppy is still not eating their dog food, it may be a wise idea to have your puppy evaluated by a vet. Feeding A Two-Month-Old Labrador Retriever Two months old is about the earliest point at which a Labrador puppy can be brought home by their new family. When a Labrador puppy begins to eat solid food, it will not be eating a ton of food. So, owners can start their Lab puppy off with somewhere around 0. As your puppy grows older and gets bigger, owners should look to increase the amount of food for their Labrador pup. By the time a puppy is nearing three months old, it should be eating well over 1 cup of food every day. Some puppies may be consuming close to two cups of dog food at this time. This increase in size means that their appetite has also surely grown since bringing them home. By the time a Labrador puppy is around 3 months old, it should be eating close to 1. Large three-month-old Labrador puppies can be away a substantial amount of food as they are near four months old. Some puppies will be able to consume around 3 cups of food daily at this point in their lives, but most will be eating closer to 2 cups of dog food every day. If your pup seems hungry and looks to be a healthy weight, there is no need for owners to be concerned about how much food their three-month-old Lab is consuming. Your precious pooch will start to look more like an adult with each passing day. Therefore, it is essential to feed your dog enough food to promote the weight gain that makes dogs thrive. Four-month-old Labrador Retrievers should be given at least two cups of food daily. The biggest, most ravenous Labs will eat close to 3. However, only dogs on the large end of the puppy spectrum will need to eat this much at this time. Average four to five-month-old Labs should eat anywhere from 2 to 3 cups of food daily. Labrador Retriever teenagers are characterized by disproportionate body parts, distracted behavior, and dispositions that range from silly to ornery. Therefore, getting enough food to support such development is imperative. A six-month-old Labrador will surely be able to eat at least 2. This will ensure proper growth for your pooch. As your puppy reaches the point in which it is 7 to 8 months old, continue to increase the amount of food that your puppy receives. Labrador Retriever puppies that are close to 9 months old can eat more than 4 cups of food daily. However, your furry friend is more likely to consume 2. Instead, your pup is likely nearing its adult size. So, how much food should ten to twelve-month-old Labs be eating? Puppies that consume quantities of food on the low end of the spectrum should be consuming at least 3 cups of food every day during this time. On the other hand, large Lab pups that are between 10 to 12 months old could be eating 4. If your puppy is on the brink of adulthood, it would be wise to consider weaning it off of its puppy food in favor of adult dog food. All Lab puppies should be offered adult dog food when they reach maturity, as such food replaces nutrients that are essential for puppies with ingredients that benefit adults. Whereas puppies should eat food that increases their body weight, adult Labs should eat food that maintains their weight. So, if you think it may be time to switch your Labrador Retriever to an adult dog food diet, consult with your vet and find a food that is best for your adult Lab. Of course, the mature size of your pooch will dictate how much food it can and should be consuming every day. Generally, it is advisable to feed an adult Labrador anywhere from 3 to just over 4 cups of food every day. Gauge the weight and appetite of your pet to determine the perfect amount for your furry friend. Though the above recommendation will be perfect for most adult Labs, there are some instances in which mature Labradors will require more adult food. Pregnant Or Lactating Labs A Labrador who is pregnant or lactating will require substantial amounts of food to nourish herself and her litter of pups. Therefore, owners should be prepared to offer vast quantities of food to their Labrador mothers. While a typical adult Labrador will consume 3 to 4 cups of food every day, Labrador mothers should be offered around 6 cups of food at least to keep up with their enormous energy requirements. If your mother Labrador snarfs this food down and still seems hungry afterward, be prepared to offer her additional food. Especially Active Labs If your Labrador is an athletic specimen, it may need to consume more than a typical adult Lab to fuel the exercise regime that such a dog is accustomed to. Dogs that receive more than one hour of daily exercise could be considered especially active dogs. Owners can begin by offering these pooches 4. If they still seem hungry, owners can increase the amount of food given to these dogs. Once a dog reaches the golden years of its life, it is once again time to switch up its diet. Senior dogs should consume food that caters to the needs of their aging bodies. These pooches can get away with eating a low-protein diet whereas such food would not be appropriate for puppies or adults. Given that senior dogs are usually not especially active dogs, they do not require as much food compared to adult and large puppies. Therefore, supplying a senior Lab with anywhere from 2 to just over 3 cups of food daily should be plenty for your pooch. Now that you know how much to feed your Labrador, you are likely curious about the number of times that your dog should be fed every day. Some may be looking for a quick answer about how often to feed a Labrador every day, but the truth is nuanced. When it comes to feeding your Lab, it turns out that Labs of different ages should be fed different amounts of food every day. Read on to discover the perfect number of meals for your Lab. An infant Labrador Retriever should have its daily food allotment broken up into at least 4 meals every day. This will help supply these petite pups with the energy that they need to get through the day. Lab puppies that are four to twelve months old do not require as many meals as their younger counterparts. However, these dogs should still receive three meals per day to support their rapid metabolism. Feeding one meal in the morning, one in the afternoon, and one in the evening is optimal. Adult Labs do not need to eat as many meals are puppies due to their slower metabolisms. Supplying an adult Labrador Retriever with two meals every day would be perfect for these dogs. Ideally, adult dogs will be fed one meal in the morning and one in the evening. When your furry friend reaches the point in their life where they are considered to be a senior dog, your pooch will have the slowest metabolism in their life. The slow metabolism for senior Labs means that these dogs do not need to eat as frequently as they did when they were younger. In fact, senior Labrador Retrievers can get by with eating a single meal every day. One to two meals per day is ideal for a senior Labrador Retriever. Owners can see if their senior Lab prefers one or two meals each day by allowing them to try each option. Is this because these dogs are prone to obesity or simply because there are so many Labs out and about? It turns out that Labrador Retrievers are more prone to obesity than many other dog breeds. Labs have evolved to be very active dogs. If owners fail to provide their dogs with proper exercise and feed their furry friends excessive amounts of food, there is a good chance that owners will end up with overweight dogs. Why Is My Labrador Overweight? If you are someone who owns an overweight Labrador, you are not alone. Overweight Labs are still lovable pooches, but they could stand to lose some pounds for their own good. Obviously, feeding your dog less food is likely to be one of the keys to helping your canine companion to lose weight. However, you may be wondering what else you can do to help your Labrador lose weight. Well, if you do not frequently exercise your dog, then this is a good place to start. Try feeding your dog its typical amount of food but increasing its exercise to see if it starts to lose weight. For those that are still struggling to get your pooch to lose weight, be sure to cut out table scraps and dog treats from the diet of your dog. Moreover, be sure that you are not free feeding your Labrador Retriever. Free feeding is acceptable for puppies when they are infants, but Labradors that are any other age should not be free fed, for this can also result in a chunky pooch. If you fear that your dog is consuming its food too quickly, there are plenty of feeding methods to help your pooch slow down. Obesity in dogs is a serious issue. We briefly touched on this subject when discussing the best foods for Lab puppies, and the same advice will apply here. Some owners feed raw to their Labs, while others may feed kibble. Does this mean that those who practice raw feeding are likely to own healthier dogs compared to those feeding kibble to their dogs? Of course not! High-quality dog food may take many different forms. A raw diet could provide your dog with all of the nutrients that it needs, but it is not inherently better for your dog than dry food or homemade food. Ultimately, owners know their Lab better than anyone else, so they should have the final say regarding what to feed their dog. Deciding what to feed your Labrador can be an overwhelming prospect. Consult A Veterinarian Inquiring with a trusted veterinarian about the diet of your Labrador Retriever will help an owner determine the optimal food intake for their precious pooch. They may also recommend certain dog foods that can be purchased to feed a Labrador. A feeding chart will provide information related to how much food to provide a Lab based on its age. A feeding guide may even break down how much food to feed a Labrador based on its weight. There are plenty of Labrador Puppy feeding chart options and feeding guides for adults. Finding a feeding chart that was created by a trusted source like the American Kennel Club can help you make an informed decision about how much to feed your furry friend. Ultimately, a feeding guide is a good place to turn if you find yourself in need of a quick answer about the topic of how much to feed your Lab. Made with real meat and no artificial colors or flavors how much should a lab eat? Allergies Labs can also have allergies. Some dogs may be allergic to wheat, macadamia nuts, etc. It can manifest as a runny nose, high volumes of shedding, rashes on the skin, and so on. Different dietary needs are crucial, especially if they display allergy symptoms. Avoid all types of human foods. You can give your lab puppy supplements You can get great quality adult dog food and puppy kibble from companies like Royal Canin Labrador Retriever, Blue Buffalo, Canidae Grain-Free, etc. Only adult food must be given to labrador retrievers who have crossed 1. Your puppy needs 4 small meals consisting of half a cup of food per meal till he is 2 months old. From 2 to 6 months, he needs 3 meals daily consisting of 1 cup of food per meal. From 6 months onwards , you can give your puppy 2 meals daily of 2 cups of dog food per meal. Is This A Problem? Yes, this is a major problem! Fat dogs are adorable but also extremely unhealthy. An adult labrador retriever should weigh at most pounds. Labs that are fatter than this stand at the risk of obesity, arthritis , and other lifelong diseases. Refrain from feeding your labrador too many dog treats. Onions and garlic: surprisingly, anything in the onion and garlic family is incredibly toxic to dogs. Meat with bones: if not chewed properly, sharp edges can rupture the throat, stomach lining, intestines, and other parts of the digestive tract. Other human foods and beverages to avoid giving your dog are alcohol, sugar, citric fruits, and anything with caffeine. Your labrador retriever should weigh between 55 to 70 pounds at full adulthood. Male labs are heavier than female labs, so they can fall on either side of the optimal weight spectrum. Some healthy treats for your labrador retriever are cut fruits and vegetables. Carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, apples, bananas, and berries strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, etc. Dogs also love peanut butter! Veggies dipped in peanut butter also make a great snack for your dog. This is entirely up to you as dog owners. If you have the time and patience to cook meals for your dog, go for it. Store-bought food is easier and is filled with the right nutritional requirements for your lab puppy. On the other hand, with the right recipe, home-cooked food works, too. What Should I Do? A dog growling at you when you go near his food bowl is most commonly a trauma response or a way to protect his food. We often see this with rescues. House training your lab puppy is equally important to avoid food aggression. Labrador Retrievers get piddly after their meals. Dog owners must take out their lab puppy as frequently as they eat sometimes even more often to let their energy out and adult labradors less frequently. A lab puppy needs a ton of exercise. The amount of kibble you should feed your Labrador puppy will vary depending on their age, weight, and activity level. A good rule of thumb is to start with cups of kibble daily and adjust as needed. Best Dog Food For Lab Puppies: The best dog foods for lab puppies include those that are high in protein and low in fillers. The food you should feed a black lab puppy is the same as for any other Labrador puppy. A chocolate lab puppy should be fed the same food as for any other Labrador puppy. A 2-year-old chocolate lab should eat about cups of kibble daily. You should stop feeding puppy food to your Labrador at around months of age. At this point, their growth plates will have closed, and they will no longer need the extra nutrients found in puppy food. Labradors live for years. They start to slow down around 7 and may develop some health problems in their senior years. You should also increase their exercise level. Lab breeders feed their dogs high-quality dog food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. A lab puppy should drink about 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. This amount may increase as they get older and more active. A labrador needs at least 30 minutes of exercise per day. This can be a combination of walking, running, and playing. Golden labs live for years. Chocolate labs live for years same like labs of any color. Labradors lose their baby teeth between 3 and 6 months of age. You can start to transition your puppy to eating twice a day at around 6 months of age. By the time they are 1 year old, they should eat only once daily. You should stop feeding your large breed puppy food at around 18 months of age. Why Are Labs So Hungry? Labradors are a very active breed of dog, and they need a lot of calories to fuel their energy levels. They are also prone to gaining weight, so keep a close eye on their food intake About The Author Shradha Kabra Shradha is a seasoned writer at Labradorandyou. Her experience as a pet owner and dog enthusiast drives her to create meticulously researched and fact-checked content, offering valuable insights on Labrador training, grooming, and health. Each article reflects Shradha's passion and dedication, enriched by personal experiences with her beloved Labradors, Tom, and Kurt. Whether exploring breed-specific training techniques or providing product reviews, Shradha ensures Labrador owners receive the most accurate, up-to-date, and trustworthy information, aimed at enhancing their companions' health and happiness. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.

By choosing a dog food with top ingredients, you can ensure your Frenchie receives the essential nutrients they need for a healthy and happy life. Salmon, poultry, and lamb are particularly beneficial sources of protein for French Bulldogs. Healthy Fats Healthy fats, such as omega-6 fatty acids, are an excellent source of nutrition for French Bulldogs. These fatty acids help maintain a healthy immune system, promote healthy skin, and result in a glossy coat. By providing your Frenchie with a diet rich in healthy fats, you can support their skin and coat health while helping to moderate inflammation. Beneficial Supplements In addition to high-quality protein and healthy fats, beneficial supplements like prebiotic fiber, probiotics, glucosamine, chondroitin, taurine, and omega fatty acids should be considered for French Bulldog dog food. Prebiotic fiber and probiotics are formulated to be gentle on the digestive system and promote digestion. Glucosamine and chondroitin are essential for joint health and support joint and cartilage health maintenance. Taurine and omega fatty acids have been found to be beneficial for cardiovascular health. Some dog foods that include these beneficial supplements are: Nutro Ultra Weight Management Dry Dog Food, which contains taurine for cardiovascular health Royal Canin French Bulldog Puppy Food — which provides complete and balanced nutrition, strengthens the immune system, encourages growth, and promotes balanced intestinal flora. By choosing a dog food with these beneficial supplements, you can provide your Frenchie with a well-rounded diet that supports their overall health. Potential Allergies and Sensitivities in French Bulldogs French Bulldogs may be prone to allergies and sensitivities , making it important to research the ingredients in their food and consult a vet if necessary. Some common sensitivities in French Bulldogs include corn, soy, beef, and dairy products. If your Frenchie shows signs of allergies or sensitivities, it is essential to evaluate the ingredients in their food and seek veterinary advice if needed. If you suspect your French Bulldog has a food allergy , you may want to consider a limited-ingredient dog food or a grain-free diet. By being aware of potential allergies and sensitivities and choosing the right dog food, you can help your Frenchie maintain a healthy and happy life. Feeding Guidelines for French Bulldogs Feeding guidelines for French Bulldogs include following label recommendations for feeding quantity and dividing daily servings into smaller meals for sustained energy supply. For French Bulldog puppies , it is recommended to provide them with 1. Puppies aged between 2 to 6 months should be supplied with three meals per day, whereas older puppies should be given two meals daily. Adult and senior French Bulldogs should also be fed two meals per day. By following these feeding guidelines, you can ensure that your Frenchie receives the right amount of food for their age, weight, and activity level, helping them maintain a healthy body weight and preventing potential health issues. Our Top Picks: Best Dog Foods for French Bulldogs in Our top picks for the best dog food for French Bulldogs in include a variety of options tailored to meet the unique nutritional needs of this charming breed. From weight management formulas to grain-free options and specialized diets for puppies and seniors, these dog foods offer the essential nutrients your Frenchie needs to thrive. Pet owners recommend this dog food for its weight maintenance benefits, quality ingredients, and multiple protein sources. Additionally, it is free from artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives and contains taurine, which acts as a natural antioxidant for your pup. By choosing the best overall dog food for your Frenchie, you can support their overall health and well-being. This dog food is specifically tailored for overweight and less active dogs, providing an optimal protein-to-fat ratio to help them reach their weight goals and maintain an energetic lifestyle. However, the benefits it offers in terms of weight management and affordability make it a great value option for French Bulldog owners. Food and food are both great options when it comes to feeding your French Bulldog puppies. Both provide a complete, balanced diet for their growth and development. Food provides complete and balanced nutrition, strengthens the immune system, encourages growth, and promotes balanced intestinal flora. It is also easy to digest for optimal nutrient absorption, making it an ideal choice for your Frenchie puppy. It is worth noting that some puppies may not take to Royal Canin French Bulldog Puppy Dry Dog Food, and it is more expensive than other dog food options due to its breed-specific nature. However, the benefits it offers in terms of nutrition and breed-specific formulation make it a top choice for French Bulldog puppies. It provides optimal nutrition to maintain their health and wellbeing. This specialized diet is formulated for French Bulldogs over the age of twelve months and includes L-carnitine and top-notch protein to sustain optimal muscle mass, probiotics to minimize intestinal fermentation, and a kibble design that is easy for Frenchies to consume and encourages chewing. While some dogs may not accept Royal Canin French Bulldog Adult Dry Dog Food and it is costly, the benefits it provides in terms of nutrition and breed-specific formulation make it an ideal choice for senior French Bulldogs. Customers say their dogs love the taste of this food. Additionally, it is excellent for dogs with food allergies. No longer will they suffer from itchy paws or diarrhea. By choosing a dog food specifically designed for French Bulldogs with allergies, you can help alleviate their allergy symptoms and provide them with a diet that supports their overall health and well-being. Customers have reported that their dogs enjoy the flavor of Wellness Core Grain-Free Kibble and have maintained a healthy coat when consuming this food. By choosing a grain-free dog food option for your French Bulldog, you can support their overall health while accommodating their dietary needs. They come in a wide variety of flavors and are packed with lots of nutrition. Our dogs do deserve the best! Gradually introducing the new food over a period of days can help avoid these problems. If your dog experiences any digestive issues or stomach discomfort, consult your veterinarian for advice. Foods to avoid include chocolate, coffee, tea, grapes, and raisins. Instead, consider offering your Frenchie safe and healthy alternatives such as oatmeal, sweet potatoes, brown rice, fish, chicken, vegetables carrots, green beans, broccoli , and fruits apples, bananas, blueberries. It is always a good idea to consult your veterinarian if you are uncertain about what foods are appropriate for your French Bulldog. By providing your Frenchie with safe and healthy food alternatives, you can promote their overall health and well-being. Homemade Dog Food Options for French Bulldogs While commercially manufactured foods are generally recommended for French Bulldogs, some owners may prefer to prepare homemade dog food for their pets. Suitable ingredients for homemade dog food for French Bulldogs include cooked lean meats, cooked eggs, cooked vegetables, cooked grains, and healthy fats. If you choose to prepare homemade dog food for your French Bulldog, it is essential to ensure that the diet provides the necessary nutrients to support their health and well-being. Consult your veterinarian for guidance on creating a balanced and nutritious homemade diet for your Frenchie. Summary In conclusion, selecting the best dog food for your Frenchie is an essential part of supporting their overall health and well-being. By understanding their unique nutritional needs, choosing high-quality ingredients, and providing a diet tailored to their age, weight, and activity level, you can ensure your Frenchie thrives. With the right nutrition, your Frenchie will enjoy a healthy, happy, and fulfilling life. Frequently Asked Questions What are Frenchies allergic to? French can suffer from environmental allergies such as dust mites, pollens, molds, and grass as well as food allergies such as corn, soy, beef, and dairy products. Taking steps to reduce exposure to allergens can help keep your Frenchie healthy and comfortable. This could include things like keeping the house clean, using air purifiers, and avoiding areas with high pollen. What should I feed my French Bulldog puppy? As the owner of a French Bulldog puppy, it is important to ensure your pup is getting the right nutrients. Feed them high-quality, nutritionally complete puppy food and, if desired, lean raw meat to provide them with the balanced diet they need. When he's not spending time with his furry best friend "Freddy II", you can find him reading up on the latest Frenchie trends or exploring new parks and hiking trails with his dapper little Frenchie by his side. Whether you're a seasoned Frenchie owner or just starting your journey, Freddy is excited to share his experiences and insights with you through his articles on this website. French Bulldog puppies have unique dietary needs that require special attention. There are a few key factors to consider. First off, opt for puppy-specific formulas that meet their nutritional requirements. Avoid recipes with fillers or artificial additives — go for wholesome kibble made especially for small dogs like Frenchies. A balanced diet is crucial in preventing common issues such as paw licking or upset tummies. With proper nutrition, your Frenchie pup will be ready to conquer the world one playful bark at a time. This premium dog food provides a balanced diet with a combination of high-quality proteins, fats, and carbohydrates. It contains essential nutrients such as antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that promote healthy growth and support a strong immune system. One of the key features of Royal Canin Small Puppy is its small kibble size, which makes it easier for Frenchie puppies to chew and digest. This formula includes prebiotics to support digestive health and aid in nutrient absorption. The inclusion of omega-3 fatty acids contributes to healthy skin and a shiny coat. This grain-inclusive formula includes deboned chicken as the primary source of protein along with wholesome grains like brown rice. The blend of fruits, vegetables, and superfoods in Wellness Complete Health Puppy ensures that your furry friend receives essential vitamins and minerals. This recipe also incorporates omega fatty acids for healthy brain development and DHA for optimal eye health. We have never used this brand but I hear great things about it. This formula features deboned chicken as the main ingredient, providing a high-quality source of protein to support muscle development. What sets Merrick Classic Healthy Grains Puppy Recipe apart is its inclusion of whole grains like brown rice and barley. These grains offer a good source of energy and fiber while promoting healthy digestion. The recipe also includes fruits and vegetables such as apples, blueberries, and sweet potatoes to provide additional nutrients. Royal Canin has been our go to french bulldog puppy food. After trying multiple brands such as Purina, Stella and Chewy, and Merrick no large quantity available for purchase, small bags got expensive , Royal Canin has never let us down. We have never noticed skin problems, intolerance, and poops have always been great. Other brands have caused vomiting, diarrhea, and skin reactions to name a few. French Bulldog puppies are energetic and growing rapidly, which means they need frequent meals throughout the day. It is recommended to feed them three to four times daily until they reach six months of age. This regular feeding schedule helps maintain their energy levels and supports proper growth. Follow the recommended portion sizes based on their age and weight. Different brands may have specific guidelines tailored for French Bulldog puppies or small breed puppies in general. For puppies aged weeks: 1 cup of food per meal. Victor Ocean Fish All Life Stages Dog Food Remember that these portions can vary depending on individual factors such as activity level and metabolism. Adjust the portion sizes accordingly if you notice significant weight gain or loss. Monitor their weight gain and adjust feeding amounts accordingly. While puppies naturally gain weight as they grow, excessive weight gain can lead to health issues such as joint problems. Keep an eye on their body condition and consult with your veterinarian if you have concerns about their weight. If your puppy is gaining too much weight, consider reducing the portion sizes slightly or switching to a lower-calorie puppy food formula. On the other hand, if they are not gaining enough weight or appear undernourished, consult with your vet to determine if an increase in portion size or a different type of food is necessary. By following these feeding guidelines, you can ensure that your French Bulldog puppy receives the nutrition they need during this crucial stage of growth. Providing proper nutrition will help set the foundation for a healthy and happy adult French Bulldog. Feeding your Frenchie the wrong food can lead to serious health issues and discomfort. Chocolate contains theobromine, which can be highly toxic for dogs. Even small amounts can cause symptoms like restlessness, increased heart rate, vomiting, diarrhea, and in severe cases, seizures or even death. Onions and Garlic: A Recipe for Anemia While onions and garlic might add flavor to our meals, they pose a significant risk to our four-legged companions. This could lead to anemia and potentially life-threatening complications for your French Bulldog. The exact reason behind this toxicity is still unknown; however, ingestion of these fruits has been linked to kidney failure in some dogs. Xylitol: Sweetness Turns Sour Xylitol is an artificial sweetener commonly found in sugar-free products like gum or candy. While it may be harmless for humans, it can be extremely dangerous for dogs. If ingested by your French Bulldog, xylitol can cause a sudden release of insulin, leading to a rapid drop in blood sugar levels. This can result in seizures, liver failure, or even death. Opt for high-quality dog food specifically formulated for their needs. Look for options that include meat protein sources like chicken or salmon, as these are beneficial for their muscle development and overall health. Make sure the food you choose contains adequate amounts of vitamins and fatty acids to promote healthy skin and coat. Avoid foods with excessive fat content that could lead to weight gain or digestive issues such as loose stools. Stick to dog-friendly fruits and veggies as treats instead. Chicken fat as dog food High-fat meats, chicken skin and fat from steaks or roasts are not recommended. Ingestion may lead to gastrointestinal upset or even pancreatitis. This can be a very painful condition for dogs. Providing a healthy diet is essential for their overall health and well-being. Opting for lean proteins like chicken and turkey ensures they receive high-quality nutrients without excessive fat content. These proteins promote muscle development, support growth, and provide essential amino acids for overall health. Opt for natural alternatives that are free from these artificial additives. Whole Grains: Nourishing Carbohydrate Sources Carbohydrates play a role in providing energy to your puppy. However, not all carbohydrates are created equal. Instead of fillers like corn or wheat that offer limited nutritional value, look for whole grains such as brown rice or oats. These whole food ingredients provide fiber, vitamins, minerals while promoting steady energy levels throughout the day. Omega-3 Fatty Acids: Promoting Healthy Skin and Coat To maintain healthy skin and a lustrous coat on your furry friend, incorporate omega-3 fatty acids into their diet. Sources like fish oil offer an abundance of these beneficial fats that nourish their skin from within. Not only do omega-3s contribute to a shiny coat but they also help reduce inflammation and support healthy skin and overall health. By opting for lean proteins, avoiding artificial additives, incorporating whole grains, and including omega-3 fatty acids, you are providing the essential nutrients they need to thrive. Remember, a healthy diet sets the foundation for a happy and active French Bulldog. So be mindful of what goes into their food bowl to ensure they grow up strong and free from unnecessary health problems. Now that you understand the importance of healthy ingredients in food, you can make informed choices when selecting the very best dog food options for your furry companion. Keep their health in mind as you provide them with nourishing meals that will support their growth and overall well-being. By following these feeding guidelines, you can provide your Frenchie with the balanced nutrition they need to stay in optimal health. Obesity can lead to various health problems such as joint issues, heart disease, and respiratory difficulties. To keep track of their weight effectively, consider using a digital scale designed for pets or consult with your veterinarian. Adjusting Portion Sizes French Bulldogs have different dietary requirements based on their activity level and age. Puppies require more calories and nutrients to support their growth and development compared to adult dogs. To determine the appropriate portion size for your puppy or adult dog, consider consulting with animal nutritionists or your veterinarian. They can provide personalized recommendations based on factors such as breed-specific needs and individual metabolism. Excessive treats can contribute to weight gain if not properly regulated. Instead of relying solely on treats for positive reinforcement, try using praise or playtime as alternative rewards. Be mindful of the calorie content in both regular meals and treats. Opt for healthier options like small pieces of lean meat or fruits and vegetables that are safe for dogs. You could even use it as a meal topper to make meal time more fun. There are hundreds of different options on the market all claiming to be the best, no wonder our Frenchie parents constantly turn to us asking what they should feed their puppies. The usual nutritional needs of French Bulldog A well-balanced Frenchie diet should contain the correct amounts of macronutrients: water, proteins, fats, carbohydrates, minerals, and vitamins. However, this is only a general guideline, and a more accurate calculation can be made based on specific factors. For instance, the age and activity level of your dog are essential factors to consider. Hormonal changes can cause neutered dogs to become less active than their fertile counterparts. Store-bought vs. Most commercial dog foods and canned goods contain preservatives, flavor enhancers, coloring, and other additives. Instead of real meat, they often contain animal by-products or meat meal, which can cause allergic reactions in some dogs. Subscribe to our weekly blog newsletter: Subscribe to our blog newsletter! First name Email When you cook food for your dogs, you can be sure of what goes into their bowl. Finally, homemade meals can prolong the average French Bulldog lifespan , so we definitely recommend homemade food! Why is it so hard to find the right dog food? Feeding is an evergreen topic among Frenchie parents in our Facebook group. They know they should feed their puppy with high-quality premium dog food to keep their baby healthy and fit, but they are left puzzled when they see the plethora of different choices. The answer is actually quite simple: every Frenchie is different and what works for one puppy may unfortunately cause problems for the other. The best French Bulldog breeders will always give you advice on how to continue feeding your puppy once you welcome them home. So what are the most important things to consider while trying to find the perfect food for your Frenchie? Read on to find out! The quality of dog food is always determined by the percentage of its protein content, in other words, the amount of meat or fish it contains. So what should you pay attention to when looking at the ingredients list? This could be beef, lamb, salmon, or any other type of meat. The list usually ends with some sort of animal fat, vegetables, and fruits. Jasper, available French Bulldog puppy at TomKings Puppies Any other ingredient not mentioned above is only included to increase the volume of the dog food and to ensure the most economical production possible. So, if you see that a food contains an unrealistic amount of filler ingredients like wheat, corn, or chemical preservatives, it is definitely not a suitable and healthy choice for your Frenchie. Dog foods without chicken and grains A question that always comes up when choosing the right food for a Frenchie is whether it has to be chicken or grain-free. For that reason, we usually recommend giving chicken and grain-free food right from the start to avoid any possible problems. Makayla, French Bulldog puppy at TomKings Puppies That means that if you look at the list of ingredients, you can find companies whose food meets all the criteria we mentioned above and is much more affordable. Like with so many things, the name is not everything! On the other hand, if the kibble is too large they will have difficulties consuming the food. The flavor of the dog food When looking at dog foods, you can choose from lots of different flavors like a lamb, fish, beef, duck, etc. If one of the foods from a particular brand works fine for your Frenchie, the flavors can and should be changed as long as they have the same nutritional values. A varied diet is important not only for humans but dogs as well, not to mention that your fur baby will be very happy to taste some new flavors. The stool of your Frenchie A very important criterion and perhaps the best indicator of the given food is suitable for your Frenchie is their stool. A healthy stool should always be completely solid, which means you can easily collect it with a bag. You should always ensure a smooth transition by gradually mixing in more and more of the new food with the old to avoid any dietary issues. Signs of a food allergy in your Frenchie We have already mentioned that Frenchies tend to be allergic to chicken, but what are the actual signs of a food allergy? The most common symptoms include scratching, hair loss, dull lifeless fur, inflamed eyes and ears often with some discharge, paw licking, swelling, but also vomiting, and loose stools. You may not notice all of these and the degree to which they occur may also vary. Any of these symptoms indicate that an immediate change of diet is necessary, about which you should always consult your vet first. Eating a bit more slowly and with less appetite are usually signs telling you to cut out the middle meal. As for the amount, nice-looking French Bulldogs are a bit stockier, so you should always increase and lower the amount of their food with that in mind. Read our article to learn more about maintaining a healthy body weight for your Frenchie. Odie, French Bulldog puppy at TomKings Puppies Special recommendations by TomKings Puppies The best food for French Bulldog with a sensitive stomach For dogs with sensitive stomachs, we always recommend home-cooked food , so you can be sure of what your dog is eating. However, it is important to ensure that the transition from store-bought to home-cooked dog food is gradual. Consultation with a veterinarian can also be helpful in determining the best wet food for a French Bulldog. It is essential to choose a high-quality brand that uses real meat and avoids fillers, artificial preservatives, and additives. Look for products that are labeled as complete and balanced, which means they contain all the essential nutrients your French Bulldog needs in the right proportions. The best dry food for French Bulldogs Although cheaper dry food may appear to be similar to premium brands based on the label, there are significant differences in the quantity and quality of the ingredients. Additionally, we advise you to switch to adult food at the age of months. We always inform new parents of Tomkings puppies of the brands we used to feed the pups and we recommend to continue using the same brand for some time. The best raw food for Frenchies There are several types of raw food diets for dogs, including the Prey Model Diet, the B. To ensure that TomKings puppies receive only the highest quality food, we continuously evaluate available options and test the latest trends. We consult with a panel of experts and experienced puppy parents within the TomKings Frenchie Family, and we are proud to recommend the B. Biologically Appropriate Raw Foods diet. Consulting with a veterinarian is also recommended to determine the best course of action. In general, weight management dog foods can be a good option for overweight French Bulldogs. These foods are formulated to be lower in calories and fat while still providing high-quality protein and other essential nutrients. Avoid feeding table scraps or high-calorie treats, and make sure to provide plenty of opportunities for exercise and play. In some cases, a prescription diet recommended by a veterinarian may be necessary to help your French Bulldog achieve and maintain a healthy weight. Best food for French Bulldogs with skin allergies If your French Bulldog has skin allergies, it is important to choose a diet that is specially formulated to help support skin health and minimize potential allergens. Consultation with a veterinarian is also recommended to determine the best course of action. Some high-quality dog food brands offer special formulas that are designed for dogs with skin allergies. These foods typically contain limited ingredients and exclude common allergens such as wheat, soy, chicken, and dairy products. Instead, they may use alternative protein sources such as fish or venison and may contain added omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids to help support skin health. Some veterinarians may also recommend prescription diets that are formulated specifically to manage skin allergies in dogs. These diets may contain hydrolyzed proteins, which have been broken down into smaller components to minimize the risk of an allergic reaction. Even though processed dog foods might not look healthy to us, they actually contain all the nutrients that Frenchies need to stay healthy. Home-made and raw diets like B. Should I opt for dry kibble or canned wet food? Wet foods are of course more appealing to dogs, which means they get used to them easily and will not want to eat dry food again. If your Frenchie is a picky eater you can mix the dry and wet food but never give them the latter only. We recommend wet food for dogs who are ill and have no appetite. How much time does my puppy need to adjust to a new food? At what age should I switch to adult food for my French Bulldog? We usually recommend switching to adult food at the age of months old. If you notice that your puppy looks a bit chubbier or bigger compared to other Frenchies you can make this change even sooner. What is the best food for a Frenchie puppy? The best choice for your Frenchie puppy is to continue providing the same brand the breeder used to provide. This should be a high-quality brand that uses real meat and avoids fillers, artificial preservatives, and additives. What is the best food for an adult French Bulldog? You have several options. You can buy high-quality wet and dry god food at your local pet store or if you want more control over what goes into the bowl, you can feed your adult Frenchie with home-cooked food. Raw diets like B. The article is based on the expert knowledge of the TomKings Puppies team who have been breeding French Bulldogs for 10 years on their farm. All the pictures in the post belong to them and their customers, and show puppies from their breed. Check their available French Bulldog puppies , or if you have any questions or comments let us know below the article. May 31, Are you head over heels for your adorable French Bulldog puppy? These little bundles of joy bring so much laughter and love into our lives. Best Food for your French Bulldog puppy According to vets and French Bulldog experts in the US, the best bulldog diet should contain proteins, carbohydrates as well as an equal amount of healthy fats for brain power and energy. Just like humans, your dog could be allergic to some kind of food, such as corn or soy, but in most cases, they are actually allergic to fillers found in processed food. These fillers are used to add mass to the product, but have no nutritional value and are difficult to digest. The best way to save your dog from this kind of suffering is avoiding fillers and giving him whole food ingredients. These budget-friendly choices mostly trigger allergies and contribute to various health problems. Having earned the highest of all ratings, NutriSource is a great choice for puppies! Contains all the essential nutrients for the optimum health of your pet. Contains no animal by-products, whole corn, artificial additives or preservatives. Fromm Besides containing nearly all of the essential nutrients, the fact that you can get grain-free varieties and non-grain-free varieties is great. Salmon oil and probiotics have been added to aid digestion and promote good health. No corn and no wheat. Highest consumer ratings!

He does not have the gene to make a rose-nosed puppy. They display slightly smaller curls than some pups, but it is still not a tight curly fleece. As adults, they will have a coat similar to Tilly, their mom. This coat is easy to care for, does not mat easily, and is easy to brush out regularly. The first two pups pictured have a different dad, they are out of Riley, and the other four are from Sam. Also, note that Riley's pups have a rose nose, and the others have a black nose. These two display tight fleece. Keep short for easy management, or brush regularly to avoid mattes. The first pup had a slightly curlier coat than the others and was fluffier as an adult. You can also see the rose nose on the caramel pup 3 versus the black nose on the apricot pup 6. The black pups range in colors; the first black Australian labradoodle puppy is solid but already showing signs of silver showing through around his nose and will likely silver out as he matures. The other two black pups are phantom or sable, with adorable brown eyebrows—two caramel pups with rose noses and one apricot pup with a black nose. You can see three of each type in this litter. The pups in positions 1, 3, and 6 are tight curls, and the other three are loose. An equal distribution of rose noses, 3 rose and three black. Gypsy makes a wide range of sizes in her litter. In this litter, the Australian labradoodle puppies range in weight, at age 1, from lbs. What Is A Labradoodle? Labradoodle Photo: Adobe Stock Labradoodles are a popular designer dog that are created by breeding a Labrador and a Poodle. The first Labradoodle was bred over 30 years ago to serve as a service dog with hypoallergenic qualities. Labradoodles have a breed standard as breeders look to attain consistent looks and temperaments. They can also come in a variety of different sizes, ranging from standard, medium and miniature. The Australian Labradoodle breed standard has the following to say on general apppearance: The Australian Labradoodle moves with agility and grace when active yet is compact with substance and medium boning. Brimming with joy and energy when free, they become relaxed and quiet when handled. Australian Labradoodles have a free flowing wavy or curly coat that is low to non-shedding. Early generation Labradoodles used for infusion have greater variability in coat. Labradoodle Colors Labradoodles can have coats of different textures, such as wool, fleece or hair. For instance, the Worldwide Australian Labradoodle Association writes that these dogs have a single coat ranging from straight to loose curls or wool. Where colors are concerned, there can be a vast range of different shades possible for these dogs. The International Labradoodle Association provide a detailed explanation of Labradoodle coat color in their breed standard. The organization writes that Lavender, Cafe and Chocolate are possible coat colors with dark amber eyes, liver noses, eye rims and lips and dark nails. Alternatively, the colors of Caramel may have dark amber to pale hazel-green eyes, liver noses, eye ruis and lips and black nails. Gold, Red, Black, Blue and Silver Labradoodles have dark eyes, black noses, eye rims and lips and black nails. Colors of Chalk and Cream may have either pigmentation of dark amber to pale hazel-green eyes, liver noses, eye rims and lips and dark nails. Coat Patterns The International Labradoodle Association outline that Labradoodles can have the following coat patterns: solid, parti, phantom, abstract, sable, brindle and multi. They should have dark amber to pale hazel-green eyes; liver noses, eye rims and lips; and self coloured to dark nails or very dark eyes; black noses, eye rims and lips; and black or self-coloured nails. Chalk White Labradoodle Photo: Adobe Stock Looking like a white dog, Chalk Labradoodles should have a slightly different tint to white when placed next to a truly white dog. They should have black noses, eye rims and lips. This color can start to fade over time. Their appearance usually ends up being a dark smoky blue color. Parchment Parchment Labradoodle Photo: Adobe Stock Labradoodles with a parchment coat will usually have a creamy chocolate coat color. Phantom Phantom Labradoodles have a solid base color and a second color can be found on their eyebrows, muzzle, fore-chest and legs. Cafe Cafe Labradoodle Photo: Adobe Stock Resembling a cup of coffee in coat color, their coat could become lighter over time. Silver Silver Labradoodle Photo: Adobe Stock Like Blue Labradoodles, Silver Labradoodles usually start with a black coat color before their silver coat starts to develop in the first few years of their lives. Anything Else To Consider There is no guarantee that a Labradoodle will have a certain color, especially when dealing with a first generation Labradoodle. As a cross between a Labrador and a Poodle, they can inherits traits from either parent. This includes physical traits. Having said that, if a Poodle is bred with a Labradoodle to create a multigenerational Labradoodle, there is a great chance of knowing some of the traits that the resulting puppy will inherit. Black Brown A red-colored Labradoodle is the rarest of them all. Much darker than a gold or apricot-colored Labradoodle, they are a similar color to an Irish Red Setter. To be a real red, their nose must be black, not brown. His entire coat should be red, and the hair needs to be the same shade from base to tip. So finding a Red Labradoodle is even more extraordinary. As such, his pricing will reflect this. Labradoodle Colors Explained Although we all have our favorite colors, there are a few things that you need to consider. Firstly, the color should not be your entire basis for choice. Just because there is a pup in the litter that matches your best outfit does not necessarily make it the best match for you and your family. So, it is essential to look beyond the coat color. A reputable breeder will pair you with the pup they think is the best fit for your lifestyle. Even if that is the only color that you want in the litter. For example, a recent study has shown that chocolate-colored Labradors have a significantly lower lifespan compared to their black and golden siblings. They also have a higher rate of skin and ear problems too. White-colored and dilute colors in dogs are also believed to be linked to health concerns. For example, white dogs have an increased chance of deafness and blindness compared to non-white dogs. Diluted colors are also linked to a condition known as Color Dilution Alopecia, which is known to affect standard-sized Poodles. The majority of Labradoodles in these colors, if bred under a reputable breeder, will not be affected or unhealthy. But, if you do get a pup with these colors , make sure you are aware of the symptoms associated with their potential pigment-related conditions. Final Thoughts No matter what color Labradoodle you choose, or whatever shade your Labradoodle pooch grows into, know that you will have a beautiful and bouncy pup. They will brighten up your day for sure. Always work with a reputable breeder, and no matter what color you choose, you should be the recipient of a healthy and happy pooch. See also:. Contact Us Labradoodle Colors Australian Labradoodle coat colors colours come in a wide variety of options. Below is a listing of the different coat colors, coloring descriptions and what to expect with their coats throughout their lifetime. Caramel Caramel colored dogs have liver noses brown. Their range of coat color can vary between light yellow to almost red in hue. The difference in a caramel dog and a chalk, cream, apricot and red dog is their nose color. Chocolate True chocolates are brown in color. Many chocolates do fade over time. Cream This color comes in a wide variety of shades but it should be creamy in appearance. The nose pigment is black. The pigment for the nose is black. Parchment This color is a creamy beige chocolate color. It has been described as a cup of coffee with a generous addition of milk. These dogs are born milk chocolate and will develop their parchment coloring over time. The nose pigment is rose. Red True reds should be rich and dark in color and the roots should be no lighter. Sadly, this coat color tends to fade over time. The nose color is to be black. This color develops over the first years. Nose pigment should be rose. Chalk This color is a white looking color. However, if you were to compare it to a true white, it would appear to be more chalk-white in color. Nose pigment is black. Black Black Labradoodles should be solid in color with no sprinklings of other colors throughout the coat. Their pigment color should be black. Silver These pups would start out black and their silver coloring develops over the first few years of their lives. The color range can be anywhere from a light pewter to a dark charcoal. Silver dogs need to have black pigmentation. The blue coat will develop over the first few years. The color should be solid once they are full grown. It should be a dark-medium smoky blue. Lavender This color has a smoky lavender chocolate coloring that almost gives off a pink to lilac appearance. These pups are born chocolate and will come into their beautiful lavender coats over the first few years. Their pigmentation should be rose in color. Parti These dogs need to be at least fifty percent white, with spots or patches of any other above solid color. Full or partial saddles are acceptable, but are not preferred. Ticking in the white of the coat is acceptable but not preferred. The nose pigment needs to match the solid color. Any combination of acceptable colors is allowed. Nose pigment should follow requirements listed above based on the solid base color. Information and photos republished with permission from Australian Labradoodle Association Save Ready for your puppy?

Adding a Goldendoodle puppy to your family is a big commitment…and it can come with an equally big price tag! Knowing what the average Goldendoodle price is and the factors that influence the cost can help you budget appropriately. It can also protect you from vastly overpaying or being the victim of a scam. So, how much does a Goldendoodle cost? What Determines the Price of a Goldendoodle Puppy? There are six main factors that will help us determine how much you should expect to spend on your future Goldendoodle. Size There are five sizes of Goldendoodles —standard, medium, mini, toy, and teacup. That rule is, the smaller the size, the higher the price. First and foremost, you want to pick the Goldendoodle size that will work best in your family. All else being equal, however, you may save significant money by choosing a larger dog. Generations are what describe the genetic makeup of Goldendoodles and how close in DNA they are to their Poodle and Golden Retriever ancestors. Some Goldendoodles may even be hypoallergenic , though this can never be guaranteed. More Poodle DNA frequently results in a curlier coat. When it comes to Goldendoodle price, the closer in DNA your potential dog is to a Poodle, the higher the cost will usually be. This is because the demand for allergy-friendly and low-shedding dogs is very high. Location As the cost of living increases, so does the cost of a puppy. For example. Sometimes it can be helpful to drive a few hours to a Goldendoodle breeder further away. While less convenient, it could save you a little bit of money if you are from an area with a high cost of living. How did they seemingly get such a bargain? The answer is where they got their dog from. These owners likely adopted their Goldendoodle from a shelter or rescue organization. Quality, reputable breeders typically charge a premium for their puppies. On the other hand, puppy mills and backyard breeders will sometimes charge very low prices because their expenses are so much lower. Be careful, sometimes you get what you pay for. A cheap, unhealthy puppy will cost you more in the long-term than a more expensive, healthy dog. Click here to get an instant, online pet insurance quote from Healthy Paws! These stores thrive off of emotional, impulse purchases and receive strong criticism for obtaining their puppies from questionable breeders. Color There are so many colors of Goldendoodles, it may be impossible to choose your favorite! There is a wide spectrum of solid color options like cream, apricot, chocolate, or black. On top of that, there are unique, multi-color patterns like parti, merle, phantom , and sable. Many breeders base their pricing partially on color. Usually, the rule of thumb is that multi-color Goldendoodles, particularly those with rare or desirable patterns , are going to be significantly more expensive than their solid-color counterparts. For more budget-minded folks, a solid color Goldendoodle puppy will be just as cute for a fraction of the price. Usually, black. Black Goldendoodles are adorable, but are often overlooked and you can sometimes find them at a bit of a discount depending on the demand. The moral of the story when it comes to choosing a Goldendoodle color is to keep your options open. When there are lots of prospective buyers and not a lot of available puppies, prices will go up. When there are plenty of available puppies but not a lot of buyers, prices will go down. The best example of this when it comes to buying a puppy is around the holiday season. Goldendoodles, along with many other breeds, are often given as Christmas presents to children or spouses. For this reason, many breeders charge more for puppies that will be available to go home around the holidays. Why Are Goldendoodles So Expensive? Why are Goldendoodles so expensive? The simple answer is supply and demand. Poodle mixes are extremely popular due to their adorable, teddy-bear looks and also their likelihood to be allergy-friendly and low-shedding. On the other hand, reputable breeders struggle to keep up with demand and often have waitlists that extend months, or even years, down the road. All Goldendoodle puppies should come with at least their first round of vaccinations, deworming, up-to-date flea and tick prevention, and a vet check. Most reputable Goldendoodle breeders also offer a health guarantee on their puppies. This can range anywhere from 6 months to 2 years. Usually, breeders will send your new puppy home with a few basic items like a blanket, toy, collar, and a small bag of food. In almost all cases, you will be required by a breeder to place a deposit to secure your selection from a particular litter. Be extremely careful sending money to any breeder who you have not personally visited. Do your due diligence to make sure they are legitimate. Many scammers are out there luring eager Goldendoodle buyers in with adorable, fake or stolen puppy pictures only to take their deposits and never be heard from again. Lifetime Cost of Owning a Goldendoodle If you thought the price of a Goldendoodle puppy was expensive, you might want to sit down for this. Here is the average lifetime cost of owning a dog according to a few, reliable sources which utilized major research studies to arrive at their conclusions:. Other factors such as generation, location, physical features, and health may also affect the puppy price. You might be wondering why the average price is unreasonably high. This is because breeders spend years studying how to produce perfect dogs. Also, the process of getting this mix is complicated. However, getting a Goldendoodle puppy from a puppy mill or backyard breeders is not a good idea. The initial price may save you a few bucks, but you may end up spending more on maintenance costs in the future. Since the size of Goldendoodle puppies varies depending on the weight of the parent dogs, they come in a variety of sizes: Standard, Medium, and Mini Goldendoodle. Standard Goldendoodles usually follow the size of a parent Golden Retriever. A Goldendoodle which comes in the toy, micro, and teacup categories, is the most in-demand, with teacup Goldendoodles being the most expensive. For this mixed breed, the size is not directly proportional to its price. Below is a detailed list and an explanation of each factor that may affect Goldendoodle price: Size: Goldendoodle puppies come in three sizes: Mini, Medium, and Standard. Contrary to its size, the teacup Goldendoodle is the most expensive. This is because small breeds easily develop health issues; thus, reputable breeders spend more time and effort breeding them. Coat Type: Goldendoodles can have straight, curly, or wavy coats, depending on the parent dogs. Since those wavy and curly coats are non-shedding and hypoallergenic , they tend to be more expensive. Brown, cream, and white are the most common colors for this mix, while parti is one of the rarest. Demand: This mix is one of the most in-demand designer dogs to date, especially the mini Goldendoodle. Over-breeding may sound like a solution for many breeders, but this will greatly compromise the health of a dog. Reputable breeders opt to increase their prices by tenfold instead. Location: Goldendoodle puppies cost lower in rural areas than in densely-populated cities. This is because the cost of living in rural areas is lower than in urban cities. Reputable Goldendoodle breeders in a rural area could have spent less for the mix; hence they charge lower prices. Getting cheaper options from puppy mills might save you a few bucks, but you will end up spending more on maintenance costs in the future. Aside from the aforementioned factors, gender, genetic testing, health guarantees, health testing, training, generation, and pedigree may also affect its pricing. Consulting with a Goldendoodle breeder may help you know more about the other factors and determine if a Goldendoodle price point is reasonable. If the cost is not within your budget, getting one from a puppy mill or a backyard breeder may be an option, but this does not guarantee that you will get a healthy dog. If you cannot afford the average Goldendoodle price or risk it with puppy mills or backyard breeders, then adopting a Goldendoodle may be your best choice! You can choose to adopt from local shelters or rescues. Adoption fees vary between shelters and centers. Designer dogs like Goldendoodles are also a rare find in shelters and centers unless they are old, past their prime, or terribly sick. Miniature Goldendoodles are even harder to come by in these places. Hip dysplasia , a disease common among large dogs, is one of the reasons Golden Retrievers and Goldendoodles are found in rescue facilities. Dogs with hip dysplasia are often harder to look after. To keep them safe, healthy, and happy, you need to prepare their food, bowls, bed, toys, grooming essentials, medications, licenses, and many more. The list below is a compilation of the most basic and important items you need to initially buy for your new furry companion: Food and Treats: The amount of food and treats that a Goldendoodle puppy needs will depend on its size and energy level. Food and Water Bowls: Getting food and water bowls made of stainless steel will save you a lot of money in the long run. Bed: High-quality beds will ensure that your dog will get all the rest that it needs after a long day of playtime. Crate: Crate training may sound unnecessary for those who plan to raise puppies indoors, but Goldendoodles tend to seek shelter and independence when they get stressed. Leash and Collar: A leash and a collar will come in handy when you bring your Goldendoodle outside for dog walking and training. Toys: Goldendoodles and dogs, in general, will undergo a teething stage and chew on almost anything to relieve boredom and pressure on the gums. Deworming, Flea, and Tick Medication: Ask a reputable breeder if the dog has been dewormed or treated for fleas and ticks. Initial Vet Visits: To ensure that your dog is growing normally and without abnormalities, an initial visit to a licensed veterinarian is essential. Initial Vaccine Shots: Initial veterinary care will include vaccinations. Neutering or Spaying: The benefits of neutering or spaying outweigh its risks. Dog License: In case your dog gets lost or involved in an unexpected scenario, having a dog license will help them be identified and brought back to you safely. In case your dog gets lost, this will increase the chance of getting your dog back as quickly as possible. Miscellaneous Supplies: Owning a Goldendoodle entails buying other essentials such as potty pads, carpet cleaners, poop bags, disinfectants, and more. Below is a table containing a breakdown of the most basic items that you need to purchase before taking your dog home: Type of Expense. Before buying or adopting any dog, it pays to do your homework. Knowing where to search for your next dog, what to look for in a reputable breeder, and what you should expect to pay can improve your odds of bringing home a healthy dog at a reasonable cost. Purebred dogs have national breed clubs that provide information about the breed. Though the goldendoodle is a crossbreed, a national organization called the Goldendoodle Association of North America supports responsible breeding and pet ownership. Cost of Adopting a Goldendoodle Goldendoodles occasionally find themselves in need of rescue when people buy puppies from unscrupulous breeders who make unrealistic guarantees, or when new pup parents find themselves unprepared for caring for their goldendoodle. For instance, reputable goldendoodle breeders should never guarantee that a puppy will be 'hypoallergenic' or will not shed. When those adorable goldendoodle puppies start shedding, or when their human has an allergic reaction, the doodle may be in need of a new home. Rescuing an adult goldendoodle is not only a great way to save some money on the purchase price of the dog, but also provides other benefits. Goldendoodle puppies may also end up in rescue occasionally. This adoption fee generally includes the costs of updated vaccines and a spay or neuter surgery, and helps to ensure the organization can continue its lifesaving work. Cost of Buying a Goldendoodle Buying a goldendoodle puppy from a breeder is the most expensive way to acquire a goldendoodle. However, the cost of a puppy varies wildly. Breeders from different states may charge more, and the cost of a larger size goldendoodle may be different than a smaller goldendoodle. Some breeders also charge more for more desirable colors or coat types. Responsible goldendoodle breeders put a lot of money into their breeding programs, which is why their puppies cost a lot. Such breeders purchase or keep high-quality dogs for their breeding programs, perform genetic health screenings on the parents before breeding them, maintain pedigrees and pair dogs thoughtfully to better the breed. Reputable breeders also pursue thorough veterinary care for their adult dogs and puppies, feed high-quality diets, register their litters with the proper organization, and never overbreed their females or breed more puppies than they can responsibly care for. Due to the efforts they put in to produce healthy, high-quality dogs, good breeders usually offer a health guarantee on their puppies. Such breeders may simply breed together any male and female they happen to own and sell the resulting puppies. When a goldendoodle breeder tells you the price of buying a puppy, ask about their breeding program, genetic screening and health guarantees to find out what you are paying for. Additionally, be aware that some pets stores sell goldendoodle puppies along with many other breeds of puppies. It is very difficult to obtain accurate information on breeders who supply to pet stores, and in many cases, animal welfare experts worry about these puppies coming from puppy mills. A puppy mill is often described as a commercial dog breeding operation where the goal is to produce as many puppies as possible without regard for their health and the welfare of the breeding dogs. Both the adult dogs and puppies often have poor health, are exposed to more infectious diseases, and tend to have ongoing health problems in additional to coming from inhumane living conditions. For this reason, it is best to avoid purchasing a puppy if it has a questionable origin. One significant cost to consider for goldendoodles is the cost of professional grooming. Almost all goldendoodles need to have their hair trimmed by a groomer. Some goldendoodles may need grooming once a month; others can go about eight weeks in between haircuts. Article Sources The Spruce Pets uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy. You will also get the satisfaction that you will be providing a dog with a much-needed new home. However, due to the popularity of this breed, it can be challenging to find one available for rehoming. Your best bet would be to look at doodle-specific rescue sites where you might be lucky enough to find an older dog needing a new home. Despite being crossbreeds, these dogs are very trendy, which has pushed up the price of these puppies. Various factors also influence how much you will pay for your puppy, including his size, lineage, and coat type, and color. However, within the Mini Goldendoodle category, you can also find toy and teacup pups. This price increases significantly every year as the demand for these cute doggos continues to grow. Mini: These puppies are rarer than standard ones and are thus more expensive. Toy: Micro Goldendoodles that weigh under 15 pounds are extremely difficult to breed and thus will be more expensive. Unfortunately, due to their small size, they can have many health problems. Teacup: These pups are the most expensive variety. The exact type of coat your dog will have is typically affected by his generation. Dogs with curly coats are more in demand due to their hypoallergenic qualities and will fetch more than dogs with straight coats. F1: These are created using a purebred Golden Retriever and a purebred Poodle. This is the cheapest type of Goldendoodle as their coat is unpredictable, and you could get the straight, shedding coat of the Golden Retriever parent. F1B Goldendoodles suitable for breeding are very expensive as they are the least likely to shed. F1BB: This is .While a rarer cross to find, F2 Goldendoodles are cheaper than F1B dogs. F2B: These are also a pricier variety. This is because they, too, are likely to be hypoallergenic, non-shedding dogs. F2BB: These dogs contain significantly more of the Poodle genetics and thus are likely to have a curly coat and be more expensive. F3: Breeding Goldendoodles beyond the second generation are known as F3 Goldendoodles. These are pretty rare as they are quite challenging to breed, and the result of the puppies is unpredictable. These dogs thus do not fetch as much as F1B Goldendoodles. Multigen: These are the same as F3 Goldendoodles. These dogs are pretty unpredictable and inconsistent. Coat color and markings There are various Goldendoodle coat colors and typically the rarer the coat color, the more expensive the puppy. The most expensive are multi-colored ones such as the Parti, Phantom, or Tuxedo Goldendoodle. On the other hand, standard apricot or solid gold Goldendoodles are the most common and will thus fetch the lowest prices. Reputable breeders who have been doing this for a long time will have spent a considerable amount of time and energy doing health and genetic tests on their dogs to ensure that they are getting the best puppy. Registration papers and pedigree As the Goldendoodle is a crossbreed, they are not recognized by the American Kennel Club AKC , and so you will not get registration papers for one of these puppies. That said, reputable breeders are likely to be registered with the Goldendoodle Association of North America GANA and charge more for this stamp of approval. Health screenings and medical expenses As per the GANA requirements, reputable breeders will check their puppies before sale to ensure that they are free of any genetic conditions. Reputable breeders will also regularly perform health checks on the parent dogs to ensure that they are of good quality. They are generally more expensive when young but beware of breeders who sell puppies under eight weeks. Puppies are dependent upon their mothers for warmth and food throughout the first two months of their lives and should only go to their new homes after this. Gender There is little difference in the cost of a puppy based on gender. Supply and demand: Goldendoodles are in high demand and thus are quite expensive. Rather than forcing their dogs to breed more puppies to meet this demand, reputable breeders will instead increase the cost of each individual dog. Breeding stock: As you can see, the different generations of Goldendoodle have different prices. Thus the breeding stock or parent dogs and their lineage will ultimately impact the price you will pay for your puppy. Location: The land price in a specific location will also affect the price. For instance, dogs from California will be more expensive than those from the Mid West. These include food, vet expenses, grooming, training, and more. Vet Bills If your Goldendoodle is exercised regularly and provided with high-quality food, he should lead a long and healthy life. However, you will need to visit the vet with any dog for regular check-ups and vaccinations. Common health issues and estimated costs to treat them One of the most common health problems associated with the Goldendoodle breed is hip dysplasia. Unfortunately, most dogs will need expensive surgery in order to rectify this ailment. Thankfully, this disease can be avoided through proper genetic testing. That is why it is essential to get your dog from a reputable breeder who will provide you with health certificates and warranties for your puppy. Food Consumption Source: kingtuckerdoodle The exact amount your Goldendoodle will eat will depend on his size and energy levels. Obviously, the bigger the size of your pup, the more food he will eat, and this is one breed that does particularly like its food. Dog Grooming Service When it comes to grooming, Goldendoodles need to be taken to the parlor regularly. These dogs do not shed and thus need regular brushing and haircuts to prevent painful mats and tangles from forming. Each visit should include bathing your pet, giving him a haircut, cleaning out his ears, and trimming his nails. Learn more about the different types of Goldendoodle haircuts here. This will enable you to have the means to pay for any large unanticipated medical expenses in the future. However, during potty training, you could spend more as you invest in puppy lessons, potty pads, carpet cleaners, disinfectants, and more. If he destroys the toys quickly, you may need to buy more, but it may be worth it to buy more expensive toys from the start since they are less likely to break or be chewed up. Goldendoodles will also love interactive puzzle-type toys that will stimulate their minds as they are very intelligent dogs. This includes their food, bowls, toys, lead, collar, bed, crate, medication, grooming essentials, and a dog license if required by your state. In addition, the first year of pet ownership is more expensive than any other year due to more frequent vet visits, the cost of setting up your home for a pet, and the expense of neutering or spaying your pup. Lifetime Expenses Goldendoodles have a life expectancy of between 10 and 15 years. As you can see, owning a pet is a big commitment and not one that should be entered into lightly. There is no hard and fast rule about what is included in the price of your Goldendoodle, and thus, it is necessary to chat to your specific breeder. Typically, puppies will come with their first set of shots and deworming. The breeder may also give you a puppy blanket, a starter pack of food, and even a toy. All reputable breeders should also give you health certificates for your pet, and some may provide a health warranty. Is a deposit required to purchase a Goldendoodle puppy? As Goldendoodles are in such high demand, most breeders will require you to put down a deposit to secure your puppy. Conclusion: Should You Buy a Goldendoodle? As you can see, there are various factors you need to consider when buying a Goldendoodle. Do you have a Goldendoodle at home? We would love to learn more about your furry friend in the comments below. With a background in animal science, dog training, and behavior consulting, her hands-on experience and extensive knowledge make her a trusted source for dog owners. When not writing or leading the K9 Web content team, Cess can be found volunteering at local shelters and participating in dog-related events. Leave a Comment. If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Learn More Goldendoodle is one of the most sought-after hybrid breeds and for many great reasons. So, how much does a Goldendoodle cost to adopt and what are the average costs of Goldendoodle ownership? The adorable Golden Retriever-Poodle mix is very in-demand and becoming increasingly popular. And as you might guess, Goldendoodle price is not for the faint-hearted. So, how much is a Goldendoodle going to cost you? Factors that Determine Goldendoodle Price Genetic Guarantees Genetic and health testing is probably one of the most important factors that influences the price of Goldendoodle puppies. Firstly, we always recommend you opt for breeders who do extensive health testing to rule out any genetic conditions. Most common health issues in Goldendoodles are often easily prevented by testing the parent dogs. Secondly, reputable breeders usually offer at least a two-year health guarantee for various genetic conditions. Some even offer health guarantees for up to six years! For instance, you might find that Goldendoodle cost in rural areas can be significantly lower than in highly populated cities. Additionally, Goldendoodle cost even between different states can greatly vary. Breeder Stock Another factor to keep in mind is breeding stock, as breeding different generations of Goldendoodles require a certain set of parent dogs. For instance, F1 Goldendoodles tend to be the least expensive option, whereas F1b, F2, and F2b Goldendoodles tend to be pricier. Some of the highest rated breeders have waiting lists filled for up to a year. Naturally, we can expect those breeders to also charge higher rates. In addition to that, we can expect Goldendoodles to cost more in areas where the demand is higher. As F1b and F2b Goldendoodles are often the most hypoallergenic generations, they usually cost more than the straight-haired pups. Minis and Medium Goldendoodles tend to cost more, as breeding them requires more time and effort. See Also: Click the image Breeder Reputation Of course, adopting a puppy from a reputable breeder will cost you some extra cash. Professional Goldendoodle Breeders We always recommend choosing reputable and responsible breeders whose top priority is the health and wellbeing of the parent dogs and the puppies. These are often professional breeders who have many years of experience in breeding new puppies and responsibly raising them until they go to their forever homes. Professional and reputable breeders have great experience and knowledge in breeding new litters. Professional breeders are dedicated to only breeding Goldendoodle puppies from healthy, genetically tested parents to prevent the risk of developing hereditary diseases later on in life. Professional Goldendoodle breeders are often certified by GANA or possess other certifications or affiliations with reputable organizations. When adopting a pup from a professional and reputable breeder, it will also reflect on the Goldendoodle price. After all, you want to make sure that you adopt a healthy puppy who has a long and fulfilled life ahead. Backyard Breeders Although some backyard breeders surely do their job with the best intentions in mind, they often lack the necessary skills and experience to produce healthy Goldendoodles. Often, they do not offer any health guarantees or even conduct any health and genetic testing on their parent pups. Of course, there are some backyard breeders who are committed to breeding healthy litters once in a while as a hobby. However, we recommend you do thorough research before picking a backyard breeder. Puppy mills produce new puppies on tight schedules while keeping their cost as low as possible. The parent pups are put under a lot of strain while both the parents and puppies are kept in cruel, filthy, and unsafe living conditions. Puppy mills also do not care for health or genetic testing, training, socialization, healthy diet, nor do they provide vet checkups for their parents and puppies. Beware of pet stores, as well, as they often source their puppies from puppy mills. How much does a goldendoodle cost when purchasing from a puppy mill? Here are the typical costs of owning a Goldendoodle: Food Like most other dogs, Goldendoodles can pretty much inhale the food in front of them, especially the larger-sized pups. Grooming Thanks to their high-maintenance coats, Goldendoodles can rack up the grooming bills rather quickly. Regardless if a Goldendoodle has straight, wavy, or curly hair, they will require regular haircuts. However, grooming is the one thing where you can, in fact, cut back on the costs. Namely, by grooming your Goldendoodle at home! Not only is it an easy way to save a lot of money every year, but you can also take it as a bonding experience for you and your furry little friend. Related Content.

Some exceptions may be made in special situations. While some of our dogs come from loving homes, all have been unexpectedly uprooted. Many come with training, confidence-building, or care needs that should be supported with positive reinforcement, patience, and ample time to bring out the best in your new companion. We generally require that you have a fenced yard exceptions may be made on a case-by-case basis. We ask that you are realistic about the right dog for your lifestyle and that you trust in our experience in making these matches. Click here for additional information. Dog Ratings The Level 1 dog is an easy dog with typically low energy level and has no behavioral issues. This level of dog would do well in virtually any home regardless of owner experience. Level 2 has energy that can range from low to high. This level may have other minor issues that are easy to address. Level 3 dogs typically have a challenging behavior, but are good dogs. These dogs might have an intense focus to work, be dog reactive or dog aggressive, may have to be an only animal in the home, or may require daily physical and mental stimulation, etc. This level of dog is not an average pet. OH MY!!! GRRAND was contacted by a shelter that feared bringing Athena and her pups into their shelter, because they were going to have to euthanize them all upon intake due of lack of space!! It took a village, but they are all safe, bathed and in foster homes! They all apparently lived in a barn stall, never leaving it, and standing on a ton of feces, which they were covered in when they arrived. Some of the pups are terrified, having lived in the barn stall, with no socialization, all their lives and are going to need families with a lot of patience! Kane known as Charles and Penelope are in the same foster home and here is what she has to say about them: "They are definitely more settled in now and some personality is starting to slowly show. Getting used to people is completely new for them and it shows, as you know. However, they both get excited, happy and eager when any of my dogs come around. Miss P or Charles have no issues with appetite, wrestling with each other, tolerate baths and the more exposure to odd things they have, I think they will turn into a very sweet and great dogs. Be in the lookout for the famous side eye he throws! He loves belly rubs and takes better to being held than his sister. Interested applicants should expect these puppies to be big, and you should be prepared for that sweet and independent Great Pyrenees personality… to know the Great Pyr breed is to love them, but they are not Goldens, and we suggest you do some research on this beautiful breed before applying! These puppies all will need a secure above ground fenced yard as Great Pyrs love to be in their yard to protect and patrol, and this happens best when they are in a secure space! GRRAND policies stipulate a few important things that may stop you from applying, and here are 2 big ones- A: GRRAND will NOT place a puppy under the age of 6 months with families with children under 6 yrs old B: Any applicant with children under the age of 16, will require a home with direct access to a securely fenced yard… meaning direct access to the yard from the home… so this means no apartments or condos. As with all puppies, they will need a home where someone is home most of the time as they need to be fed regularly, and let to go outside consistently and constantly ALL DAY LONG so potty training can be a breeze. They will be looking for a home with a fenced in yard and a family with LOTS of time and patience to socialize and work with a puppy so they can grow up to be good pups! It is a lot of fun, but it is a lot of work, and if you don't have the time, an active and non-stop playful puppy may not be for you! Families must understand there needs to be constant supervision as children of all ages need to learn to respect an animal and puppies, and need to be taught boundaries. We are excited these pups will finally get to know what a nice soft bed, in a warm and cozy home with a loving family is all about!

Maintain this schedule for at least three weeks before decreasing the number of potty breaks. Establishing good habits takes time, but consistency will teach your pup to trust and depend on you. Use a Leash Using a leash during potty training kills two birds with one stone. But, you can also use these short sessions to reinforce leash training by giving treats for staying close, not pulling, and for walking in a straight line. Pro tip: Even if you have a fenced-in backyard, teach your dog to go potty along the fence line or near bushes. Pooping in low-foot traffic areas will save you and houseguests from stepping in poop in the future. While praise is a reward in itself your dog just wants to make you happy, after all , treats are an excellent motivator. Take your pup to a dog-friendly indoor place. Common dog-friendly locales include: Pet stores Farm supply and feed stores Breweries and wineries Make sure to bring clean-up supplies in the event of an accident poop bags, paper towels, and Clorox wipes. Let your pup relieve themselves outside before you go inside, walk your pup around the store while reinforcing and rewarding good leash behavior , and take them back outside just in time for another potty break. Plus, you can get in some valuable leash training and socialization time. A chocolate Toy Poodle eating from a ceramic bowl Potty Pads are Your Friend During the first few weeks of puppy parenthood, accidents are inevitable. In the meantime, place potty pads in strategic locations around the house. Regular treats can be high-calorie, and even cut into small pieces, they can still be pretty calorie-dense. Create and Maintain a Safe Space Before you bring your pup home for the first time, make sure they have a safe space to sleep, get comfortable, eat, and play with their toys in peace. Provide treats for going inside, and begin closing the door for short periods to acclimate them to the space. This early reinforcement is critical for: Reinforcing that their crate is a safe space That being alone is okay Start small: Leave your pup in their safe space for five minutes three times per day and at bedtime on the first day. Repeat this for a second day, and increase the sessions by five minutes every other day until your dog can calmly and without accidents stay in its crate for an hour. But, the time spent is worth every minute: After a few weeks of intensive training, your pup will be a seasoned master of outside potty breaks! My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Learn more » Bringing home a new poodle, whether an adult or a puppy, is an exciting and life-changing adventure. Potty training is a long process that requires patience and commitment. The key to successfully housebreaking your new puppy is positive reinforcement and consistency. With a little help from your friends here at Hepper, your poodle can be fully potty trained in just a few months. Keep reading to find our tips on how to make the potty training process as easy as possible for both you and your pooch. Before 12 weeks, puppies are still developing the muscles they need to hold their urine and feces. After your poodle reaches 3 months of age, you can increase the intervals to the same number of hours as their age in months. Your goal for potty training should be to go above and beyond by instilling in them the importance of eliminating in a designated area. Choose somewhere in your yard where your pup can feel safe and somewhere that will be accessible in all seasons. The corner of your lot by the fence might be okay in the summer, but will your poodle want to wade through the snow to get there in the winter? Take them to the same spot every time you take them outside to go potty. Put your dog on a leash whenever you take them outside to the bathroom. Reward, Never Punish Praise and rewards go a long way with any animal. While praise and words of encouragement are rewards themselves, treats are one of the best training tools you should have in your potty training arsenal. When your poodle eliminates in the appropriate place, offer praise and a reward immediately. You can also begin implementing clicker training at this point by marking the positive action urination or defecation with a click and then a treat. Punishment is never an acceptable training method. Outdated techniques recommend hitting your dog with a newspaper, raising your voice at them and telling them how bad they are, or rubbing their face in their own urine or defecation. Dogs do not associate these harmful behaviors with doing something wrong. All punishment does is teach your puppy to be afraid of you. You may not be able to smell the remains with your human nose, but you can best bet your pup can. These can be purchased from any pet store and will be your best friend as you wade through the challenges that potty training a puppy can present. You can even try creating your own at home with ingredients you probably already have on hand, like white vinegar and baking soda. Not only does it permanently remove the very worst smells and stains yes, everything you can imagine! Click here to get yourself a bottle. Approach Potty Pads Carefully Potty pads can be a useful potty training tool in some situations. Allowing your puppy to use a potty pad inside your home can cause confusion about where it is appropriate to eliminate, dragging out the potty training process. If you must use potty pads, designate one area of your home where your puppy can relieve itself and put the pads there. You might put down several pads at first but then begin to reduce the number you lie down as your puppy gets used to this area being their spot to eliminate. Make sure you take them to the potty pads often to help them connect the dots that they are to be used for peeing and pooping. Constant Supervision Constant supervision is one of the essential parts of successful potty training. Some dogs will be able to hold it longer than others, and some will need to go to the bathroom whenever they play or get too excited. The most common signs your dog needs to pee or poop include: Sniffing around. Poodle Puppy House Training Overview While housebreaking a puppy may feel like a huge obstacle that is time-consuming at best and an undertaking that may fail at worst, there are definitely things that you can do to set your Poodle puppy up for success for potty training. There are 2 main elements: Having a clear plan in mind that will encourage a pup to learn quickly Having reasonable expectations based on the age of your Poodle In this section, we will go over all of the important steps for effective and fast training. Age to House Train This is most certainly not something that you will want to put off. Whether you have a brand-new Poodle puppy or an older, adopted dog that needs to learn, it is best to begin right away. Every day that this is not taught, is another day that the dog has wrong information about what to do and this just in and of itself will make housebreaking harder. Keep in mind that new puppies should not be brought outside to public areas or even your yard if there is a chance that other dogs have been there until the full rounds of puppy vaccinations are complete. Each vet schedule is slightly different; however, in general this is done by about the 4 month mark. If you are not sure, check with your vet. Having a Housebreaking Plan It's not uncommon for a puppy to pee or have a bowel movement with very little warning. And without a plan in place, this is when you'll see owners scrambling and picking up the pup while he dribbles urine as he's being carried out the door. While you will not catch every accident, you really will have much better success when you and all members of the family have a clear potty training plan in place. We would suggest reviewing what is needed, obtaining all of the necessities to be properly prepped, and then beginning. What is Needed Before You Begin There are a few things that you will need in order for housebreaking to be successful: 1 A supervision method. This is vital. Puppies or dog that have free rein in the house will be exceptionally hard to train. When you are home and are able to have your Poodle right by your side, use the tethering method. This means that your Poodle will be wearing a harness not a collar, since this can cause neck injury and will be on leash. The leash should be short and it should have a soft-looped handle, so that you can weave this through your belt loop or slip it over your wrist. When you are not home, or if you are home but cannot keep your Poodle near you, you'll need to keep your puppy or dog in a defined, secure area. Crates are not recommended; these are terribly confining and can cause a dog to feel both physically and emotionally stressed. Furthermore, they do not help with housebreaking; a dog will pee and poo when they need to. Gating off an entire room is also not recommended. This is too large of an area to do really do anything, and therefore there will still be pee and poo everywhere. One of the best methods is to use an indoor canine playpen. These are sturdy, open-top pens that allow a Poodle to move around, play, have all his favorite belongings food, water, toys, bed , but also keep messes contained. As a side note, these are great for separation anxiety, as they offer a secure 'den' that keeps all of a Poodle's aids right by them. And, these are perfect for the teething phase to keep a Poodle puppy from chewing apart the house. Recommended playpens to help with house training are below. These can be found with or without doors, and range from 24" ideal for toy and miniature Poodles to 48" better for standards, especially if continued to be used as the puppy grows. If you do not see the images, try a refresh. And on mobile, you may need to turn your screen horizontal to see all 4. Giving a Poodle incentive to do something applies to potty training, perhaps, more than it does with any other single action. Once something is a learned behavior, it become automatic though it is still nice to reinforce good behavior now and again. For housebreaking to happen quickly, you need to 1 give super-happy praise and simultaneously 2 offer the right type of reward. The training treat should be: New - It should not be something that you give to your Poodle for regular snacks. If you've found a great, all-natural and healthy snack that you'd like to keep giving, see if it comes in a different flavor. Small - House training treats need to be small. A puppy needs immediate satisfaction, and you cannot achieve this with something that a dog needs to sit down to chew on. Extra flavorful - It should be appealing to a Poodle sense of smell and sense of taste, offering a burst of flavor that will encourage the desire for more. And 'more' can only happen when the Poodle goes to the bathroom in the right area. Below are our top recommended training treats. And on mobile, you may need to turn the screen horizontal to see all 4. Dogs that are simply brought 'outside' for bathroom needs rarely have a good, clear understanding of what is expected. If they are out there long enough, they may very well go to the bathroom. However, your goal should be going above this and instilling the full concept of having one area for urination and elimination needs. Choose the area wisely; what may seem like a great spot in the summer may not work well in the winter. The bathroom area should be close to the home, not a spot that is used for anything else play area, gardening, etc. Within the chosen area, allow your Poodle to choose the exact spot that he prefers. Dogs that have a choice learn much faster and are more eager to follow the rules. It is best to stand in the middle of the area with your puppy on a 6 to 8 foot leash. Allow him to circle around and, sniff. Some will then need time for the bladder to relax or for the bowel muscles to push out stool. Since young puppies have weak bladder and bowel muscles, they can often pee or poo with very little warning. Whatever you need in order to bring your Poodle outside should be ready at the exit door. This will include a pair of shoes, an appropriate coat or jacket depending on the weather, clothing for your Poodle - should there be a need, an umbrella in case it is raining, a leash and even a book or magazine to thumb though while you wait. For the times that you are home, you will want to bring your Poodle to the designated area at the following times: First thing in the morning Any time right after the puppy wakes up from a nap Every 2 hours for a 2 month old, every 3 hours for a 3 month old, every 4 hours for a 4 month old, etc. It would certainly make things easier if dogs understood what we were saying when we spoke full sentences after they did something that we didn't approve of. However, puppies that are rewarded for good deeds and quietly forgiven for accidents are able to pick up what the owner wishes for without any scolding. Please remember that you want your Poodle to respect you, not fear you. And while it may feel good to release a bit of steam if you find a puddle of pee, yelling or acting frustrated will only confused and stress a puppy that really has no idea why you are upset. Dogs learn best when they can associate a word with an action. So, you'll want everyone in the house to be in agreement as to which word s will be used for housebreaking. It's best to keep it short, and have it be something that you do not feel uncomfortable saying in public. You will use this as you head outside 'Do you need to go potty? While some puppies will instantly pee or poo, others need time. Owners that only give the pup only a few minutes may have trouble with the training. Since 5 minutes can feel like 20 if you are bored, cold or otherwise uncomfortable or antsy, plan ahead. Have an outdoor chair located right in the middle of the bathroom area and plan ahead to check your mail or email during these times. It is recommended to give the puppy a good 15 minutes and if you just know that a bowel movement is due, give it .While on this note, one of the biggest problems that owners encounter is when a puppy won't pee in his spot no matter how long there, but will pee as soon as being brought back inside. A good tip to fix this, should it happen often, is hold him after you come back inside he won't pee on you ; then head back out in about 10 minutes. While young Poodles need to be taken out often see above , if they are kept on that schedule as they mature, they will not have an opportunity to learn to hold their needs and bladder and bowel muscles will not strengthen as they otherwise would. As you puppy grows older, stretch out the periods of time in between taking him out. While the carpet may look clean after you scrub it with dish soap and a sturdy brush, soap does not eliminate enzymes that are in urine. And those lingering enzymes you won't smell these, but your Poodle will essentially scream 'This is the bathroom area! So, all areas that have been pee'd or poo'd on need to be cleaned with an enzyme cleanser. Puppies are terrific at making whining noises and barking in the middle of the night, without letting us know if they need to go to the bathroom or are just bored and wanting some attention. If a puppy pees and poos before bedtime, it is far more likely that he wants your company as opposed to having a real need. However, it is always best to be safe than sorry. The important element is that this be done in a very serious manner without any play or other interaction. Keep lights low, bring your Poodle puppy directly to his spot, wait the allotted time without speaking other than praise if the deed is done and then bring him right back. A puppy will soon learn that barking for attention at night does not bring about any interaction that would seem worthy of making a fuss but that alerting you in regard to bathroom needs does result in praise and a quick treat. It's a common occurrence for owners to bring their Poodle for a walk in the neighborhood and just let the puppy go to the bathroom along the way. However, this is a missed opportunity for a house training lesson. Bring your Poodle to his spot first and then bring him for his exercise. Housebreaking Exact Steps This is exactly how to bring your Poodle out, what to say, and what to do: 1. Head outside with your Poodle on leash and harness, saying your chosen phrase Let's go potty , and with the training treats in a small zipped plastic bag, kept in your pocket. Lead your Poodle directly to the designated bathroom area, repeating the phrase. Stand in the middle of the designated area, allowing your Poodle to roam within the diameter and sniff around. Allow 10 to 15 minutes. If your Poodle pees or poos, without completely distracting your pup, mark the action with your chosen word said in a happy tone, You're going potty. During this time, be reaching for the training treat. As soon as your Poodle is done, bend to his level, give great praise in a super-enthusiastic voice Good potty, oh, you are such a good dog! If your Poodle had a bowel movement, and you believe that there may be a urination need, remain outside for an additional 5 minutes. A Final Word While you will need a bit of patience during this time, with a good plan and lots of enthusiasm from you, your Poodle puppy should be completely house trained with a few months. After you feel that he is fully trained, be sure to still bring him out often enough, and continue to offer praise to reinforce the lessons that have been learned. How to Stop a Poodle From Marking - Both males and females may display territorial marking, and this is a separate issue than housebreaking. Learn why dogs do this, and exactly how to stop it. The Best Type of Toys for a Poodle - If you think of toys as tools, you'll see that certain ones can help with a range of issues. See the top toys for teething, treat-release, chewing, boredom, and as aids when home alone. Giving a Poodle a Bath - Great tips and advice for successful baths that are beneficial to skin and coat. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. Menu Start Right Away! The most wonderful tool available for helping you train your puppy is a crate. After all Canines are den animals. If the crate gives your puppy just enough space to sleep comfortably, he probably will not want to use the crate as a potty area. That means that when you cannot directly supervise your puppy you can keep him in his crate, knowing that he will instinctively control himself when in the crate — as long as you do not leave him in there longer than his little puppy bladder can handle! If you leave a puppy in a crate for more than a couple of hours at a time, you are setting him up for failure. If you take him out often you will give him the opportunity to get it right. That is the GOAL!!! If you take him out on a regular schedule this will be discussed under House-Training , you will have even better success. When purchasing a crate there are two things to consider. The ultimate size of your dog. Our Standard Poodles tend to range from 45 to 55 pounds and stand 22 to 25 inches high at the shoulder. Unless you are going to be buying different crate sizes as the puppy grows, it is best to buy a crate with a divider. My recommendation is that you look at www. They come with a divider. Your puppy has already been introduced to the crate. So Crate Training should begin immediately upon your arrival home. There are numerous training aids which provide guidance in this area. However, since it is important to begin a training routine immediately, the following basic tips will give you a start: Never push or shove your puppy into the crate Never use the crate as a means of punishment Coax your puppy in with toys or a treat Reward your puppy with lots of praise and another treat Also note: Do not leave your new puppy alone in the crate for more than 2 or 3 hours during the day. Your puppy will need to relieve itself often. Because they do not naturally like to soil their sleeping area this works in your favor for potty training. They will whine or bark so you can quickly take them outside. In this way the puppy learns to tell you when it needs to go outside and you should show your approval. This may be a little challenging at first when the puppy seems to whine to want out of the crate. You have to set the pace as to what whine or bark you will accept. Do not give in to every whine or bark. If possible place the crate in your bedroom at night until your puppy feels secure. This also allows for you to hear its whine when it needs to go outside to potty. Use old towels or blankets for bedding to begin with. For the first few nights placing something of yours with your scent on it will help your puppy feel more comfortable and secure. Soon your puppy will be sleeping through the night. You establish the times for going to sleep and waking up. Be consistent. Thereafter do not place anything in the crate until his potty training is well under way. The idea here is that if your puppy has an accident he will be wet and uncomfortable until you come to rescue him. When your puppy is dry and clean for two weeks straight then you can try giving him a towel and see how he does. When possible leave the door open during the daytime in a restricted area so that the puppy can go in and out at will. The crate is not only used to help you house-break your puppy but also to help you establish yourself as leader and set clear limits for your young puppy. A puppy that is not crated gets into lots of expensive trouble before he is full grown. Dogs do not suddenly outgrow destructive chewing and getting into things, so it is best that they never learn that they can chew or destroy furniture or other valuables. More helpful hints: The rule for puppies between seven to fourteen weeks old is that they are in their crate more than they are out. When they are out they are confined to a puppy-proof area and under close supervision. If no one is available to watch, the puppy does not receive freedom. Remember, your puppy is a baby and also needs a lot of sleep and down time. When he is out of his crate he is usually in overdrive, playing hard. After about fourteen weeks you can start to be a little less vigilant and see how it goes. If your puppy is getting into trouble back up and limit his time out to supervision time only. Gradually work toward having your puppy out for longer and longer periods of time without him getting into trouble. Also, do not give him the run of the house. Start in a small area and as he earns your trust widen the area he is allowed to be in. As he gets close to a year old you can gradually leave your puppy out longer while you are home with less supervision. However, make sure you check on him frequently to be sure that he is not getting into trouble. Crate him when you leave the house, at least for the first eighteen to twenty-four months of his life. Remember, he is not considered full grown until he is two years old. When your Poodle has proven that he is trustworthy while you are home, you can then allow him out of his crate while you are out. Start with short periods of time. Eventually, when he can handle small amounts of time, you can extend his free times to longer and longer periods, until he can be home alone several hours of the day. To prevent future behavior problems by giving privileges too soon, your puppy should sleep in a crate from day one. The crate can be in your room, but your puppy should not be allowed to sleep with you. Using a crate is an excellent way to ensure that your puppy will not destroy something valuable. Be sure also to have lots of hard chew toys available for him to chew on. Dogs that are given too much freedom too soon are bound to get into trouble and learn to be destructive. Many behaviorists and dog trainers agree that separation anxiety can be triggered by failing to set boundaries and limit freedom when a dog is young. A young dog that does not get too much freedom too soon can learn to be alone without becoming destructive. Before we go any further we want you to know that the training of your puppy has already started. The mother of the puppies start training her babies right away. It is a delight to watch her gentle but firm ways. One thing she teaches them is about keeping there eating and sleeping areas clean. Here at Poodle Mojo we aid the mother in the natural training process and then we continue the process so your puppy comes to you already potty and crate trained. It is up to you to know how and to continue in their training. Remember… In order to house train your puppy successfully you must crate train your puppy. If you are buying your puppy from us it will have already been introduced to the crate. Yes, we have heard some people say that a crate is cruel. Well, these people think dogs are people instead of canines. Dogs are den creatures. They like a safe place to be able to go to. They also like their own place. If you have to relate in people terms, well then, you have a house and you have a bedroom. Some of you also have your favorite chair. The first training priority for most new puppy owners is house-training. This is definitely job number one for any puppies living with humans. Therefore, the key to this process is to reward your puppy when he does what you want, and to keep him from ever making a mistake. Supervision is the KEY in this process. Young puppies do certain things when they are getting ready to relieve themselves. Typically, they begin to sniff the ground while moving constantly, sometimes in a circle, looking for a good spot. Until your puppy is well trained, go outside with him. The right spot should be a spot that you always take him to until he can go out by himself. The Schedule The most effective house-training is a combination of crate training and schedule feeding and potty training. And remember consistency is the key to success. Here is an example of a potty schedule for an 8 week old puppy: am — Potty. Potty breaks Alone time Of course, potty breaks have priority on your list at this time, but routines and schedules for the other things will also help with that. Image Credit: Pixabay 2. Purchase a Leash Before you begin training your Poodle friend, you should purchase a leash and harness that will fit your pet. Using a leash during your puppy training accomplishes two things at once. If all goes according to plan within about 3 weeks of taking your Poodle to their designated potty spots, you should no longer have a problem. Praise, of course, is easy. Treats can be a bit trickier because you first have to figure out what your pet likes best. In most cases, however, your Poodle will be happy with a dog treat or even a dog toy to be given for good behavior. Never yell at, hit, or otherwise demean your Poodle for having accidents in the house or even for not following commands. Remember, your dog is just a baby, and yelling at it is counterproductive and cruel. Image Credit: Linas T, Shutterstock 4. Test Away from Home Once you begin to have accident-free days and at least a few accident-free nights, take your puppy to a friend to see how well it does. Make sure you take poop bags, wipes, and paper towels with you to clean up after your puppy if it has an accident. It permanently removes the very worst stains and smells you can imagine and makes clean up a breeze. Click here to order a bottle today. Crate training works well for older Poodles. When you take the dog outside, wait with it to see if it uses the bathroom. Remember to offer tons of praise and treats for a job well done. However, in the excitement of getting the dog settled into its new home, it could be easy to forget to set a routine and start training your new friend to potty outside. Following the steps above will ensure that your Poodle puppy is properly trained and will continue to use the bathroom outside after your strict routine are adjusted to something less rigid. Potty Training a poodle puppy is accomplished by, bell training, pad training, crate training, or a combination of these three training methods. With a little guidance, housebreaking your poodle puppy can be accomplished in just a matter of weeks. With bell training, a bell is installed near the door and the puppy is trained to ring the bell whenever they need to go out to use the bathroom. When done correctly, a Poodle puppy can quickly learn to associate the ringing of the bell with going out to relieve themselves. Because one of the hardest parts about housebreaking a dog is knowing when the dog needs to go, bell training helps take some of the guesswork out of the process. Here is the procedure for bell training a Poodle puppy for housebreaking: Install a training bell near the door. Training bells are often designed to lay flat against the wall near a doorway. Touch pad bells that are installed on the floor near the door can also be used. Once the dog has figured out the touch command, you can move on to the next stage of training. Train the puppy to execute the touch command and ring the bell each time you take them out to relieve himself. Eventually, this will cause your puppy to associate ringing the bell with going out. If the puppy has accidents, do not punish the puppy. Bell training is a good way to housebreak a puppy as it allows them to tell you exactly when they need to go outside and use the bathroom. Not only does this reduce the number of accidents in the house that have to be cleaned up, but it is also self-reinforcing—the more the puppy successfully gets to go out after ringing the bell, the more often they are likely to use it to try and communicate. Pad training involves putting disposable pads in one small area of the house and training the puppy to relieve itself in that one area, rather than training it to go outside to use the bathroom. Miniature poodles especially can benefit from pad training if they cannot be taken out every few hours. These pads will be treated with chemicals that encourage the puppy to use them. When first housebreaking with pads, you should use a larger area of pads in an enclosed space that is gated off, giving the puppy plenty of room to use them. As the puppy grows larger, you should wean the number of pads back until only a single pad is left. Carry the puppy over to these pads whenever they begin to act like they need to use the bathroom. The smell of the pads should encourage them to use the bathroom on the pads. Leave a pad soiled with urine underneath the fresh pad at least for a day or two. This can help reinforce that the puppy is supposed to use that spot. However, it is important during pad training that any housebreaking accidents be thoroughly cleaned Keep the puppy near you whenever they are indoors. This will allow you to more easily observe them and catch them before they have an accident. Remember, the more housebreaking accidents you prevent, the quicker the dog will housebreak. A great behavioral training course can help when you want to begin training your dog. I found a fantastic training system called Brain Training for Dogs. If you need any behavioral training at all for your dog, I would highly recommend this course! Check it out here to discover how this program can aid your training efforts. When used properly, crates can offer dogs a comfortable place to rest that is a private sanctuary for them. However, puppies should not be left crated for long time periods, as this will only encourage them to have accidents inside their crate and defeat the purpose of using it. This can train the dog to hold their urine until the owner has a chance to take them out and walk them. Here is the procedure for crate training a Poodle puppy: Purchase a crate and teach the puppy to sleep in it. It is normal for puppies to cry when being crate-trained the first night. Puppies would prefer to sleep with their owners because they miss the contact of their family, but try to avoid the habit. This can lead to housebreaking accidents directly in your bed, and smaller puppies can be crushed by heavy sleepers. Do not get into the habit of letting the puppy out of the crate when it cries if you know it does not need to go out. This will only reinforce the crying for attention. The puppy should be taken out to relieve itself both before and after being placed in the crate. When the puppy is young, they should only be crated overnight with a midnight break to relieve themselves, as they cannot usually hold their bladder throughout the night for the first few months. After a puppy has been holding their urine for hours, they may have to go urgently. Pick them up and carry them outside until their bladder control improves with age. Puppies should be taken to use the bathroom before being crated. This will help prevent the puppy from having an accident in the crate, which is both messy and can set back housebreaking. Do not leave the puppy in the crate for too long. To prevent this, Poodle puppies should be kept in the smallest crate side they can comfortably stand up and turn around in. In standard Poodles, larger crates should be bought as the puppy grows older. Do NOT use the crate as punishment. Remember that the crate is not a time out place, but an area that the dog should enjoy going into and should eventually go into on their own. Once a dog has been properly housebroken, they can often be given free rein of the house and will return to their open crate whenever they want some alone time or a nap. Crate training can be used with either pad training or bell training, depending on whether you want to train your dog to strictly go outside or to go inside on a pad. Feeding a Poodle Puppy While Housebreaking How you feed a Poodle puppy while housebreaking has a profound influence on how effective you are at pulling it off. In general, people who free feed their puppies—or allow them to eat whenever they want by leaving a bowl of food out at all times—have a much more difficult time housebreaking their puppies than those who control when their dog eats. Instead, you should feed your puppy at the same times each day. The smaller the puppy, the more often they should be fed throughout the day. This is especially true of miniature breeds, who can be prone to hypoglycemia or low blood sugar between meals. Puppies will usually have to go to the bathroom about fifteen to thirty minutes after they have eaten and drank water. This means that within this time frame after feeding a puppy will need to be taken to use the bathroom. While puppies should have regular access to water, owners should watch how much water they give their puppy to drink, especially when they are very young and not housebroken. Drinking too much water can lead to the puppy needing to relieve itself more often than necessary, which can increase the chance of accidents in the house. Training a Poodle Puppy to Relieve on Walks f you are not training your Poodle puppy to be let out to go to the bathroom or to use puppy pads, you may be planning on taking them on walks to relieve themselves. Not only can a long walk give a puppy who has spent hours in the crate or is about to plenty of time to stretch their legs and get some exercise, it also makes sure they have plenty of chances to use the bathroom before they have to go in the crate. Be sure to bring disposable plastic bags as well as a storage bag to keep used bags in. Consider a harness and leash rather than a collar. A harness gives you more control over your puppy without hurting them. Resist the urge to pick your puppy up when approached by another dog. Puppies have to learn to socialize on a leash with other dogs in order to become dog-friendly adults. Try to take your puppy on familiar routes. There are usually spots in the neighborhood that are well-marked by all of the surrounding dogs, and these spots are more likely to elicit a bathroom break than others. Figure out which spots your dog likes the most and make sure to hit those spots each time you take a potty walk. Making sure to walk your puppy regularly from the beginning when you first get them no matter how early or what the weather is like is the best way you can ensure that your puppy housebreaks quickly and easily. The number one challenge to housebreaking is making sure the puppy gets enough chances to relieve themselves outside to avoid an accident indoors. Home barriers: Barriers like dog gates, baby gates, or other screens can help keep puppies contained to a small area, which allows you to housebreak them on surfaces other than carpet and also lets you keep them close to training pads. Playpens: A soft collapsible puppy playpen can be a lifesaver when you need to keep your puppy in an enclosed space for housebreaking purposes, but need more room than a crate can provide so the puppy can move around and play. Treats: Treats play a large role in positivity training, as many dogs are highly motivated by food. All of the above supplies can not only make it easier to housebreak your puppy, they can also make it a less frustrating process for your puppy, too. All puppies will have some setbacks in their housebreaking, and how you react to them can make a huge difference whether your puppy gets back on track or whether they regress. Here are some tips for making sure housebreaking sticks when training your Poodle puppy: 1. Try to stay patient with your puppy and be compassionate if they make a mistake while housebreaking. It is hard for puppies to communicate with other animals than dogs, so breaching that communication game should be done gently and with respect for your dog. Always clean up accidents promptly: Leaving traces of old housebreaking accidents can leave the scent of urine or feces, a strong trigger that tells the puppy to use the bathroom in that place again since dogs use urine and feces to mark their territory. All accidents should be cleaned up as quickly as possible to avoid staining and urine soaking through the carpet into the subflooring. Make sure that you always walk, feed, water, and train your puppy on a schedule to make housebreaking a lot more simple. Do not spank a puppy or rub its nose in his mess: Not only do these methods not work to housebreak your puppy, but they may also teach your puppy to be afraid of you. Dogs do not inflict these kinds of punishments within a pack structure. A: Yes and no. A dog puppy be trained to pee on indoor pads only, but pads can also be used to train a puppy to eventually pee outdoors by moving the pad closer and closer to the door until the owner starts taking them out or they are trained to use a doggie door to access the pad outside. It really depends on the owner and whether they want to train the dog for long hours indoors or not. Q: How long can a puppy hold its urine and bowels? A: hours at six months or less. An additional hour can be added for each month over the age of six months up to 8 hours. Adult dogs should not really be left this long without the ability to relieve themselves. If you have to work a full day while your puppy is left alone at home, it is better to arrange for a lunch-time dog walker if the dog is going to be crated for long periods. Otherwise, puppy pads should be used and the dog should be left free in a closed-off space. As long as you use the right tools and consistently work on training your puppy, your Poodle should housebreak quickly. These quick-witted dogs are well-known for their intelligence, so you can be sure your puppy will catch on quick with praise and attention. I hope you found it helpful. Here are some products that I personally believe every owner should employ to help ensure the best quality of life for their dogs. But in all honesty, these are the exact products that I use and recommend to everyone, even my own family. Lemonade Pet Insurance : Lemonade Pet Insurance has enabled me to afford a very high level of veterinary care for my dog, Angus. Even after he was diagnosed with cancer a few years back. This program actually works, and at a small fraction of the cost of hiring a dog trainer! Pet Plate is the dog food subscription service I use to provide extremely healthy, pre-portioned meals for my dog. Pet Plate gives my dog Angus the highest quality nutrition at a very affordable price. BarkBox : Without a doubt, my dog enjoys Barkbox more than anything else I buy him. BarkBox delivers a customized box of themed toys, treats, and other products to your door each month. In addition, I like that a percentage of proceeds is donated to local animal shelters. I Purchase this service for my dog Angus and have saved hundreds of dollars over visiting his local vet with questions or more minor health concerns. Brent Hartman I'm Brent Hartman. I've been a dog lover my entire life and have owned many animals over the years. When my black lab Angus passed away, I was looking for another friend to share my life with. As a result of my research, I've come to love poodles and wanted to share some of what I've learned with you. Whether you're looking to adopt a poodle, or already own one, I created Poodle report to be the ultimate guide to help you find the answers you need. Recent Posts.

Labrador Retriever Stages of Development Labrador Retriever Stages of Development If you are new to the Labrador Retriever world and you have a new puppy, you may be wondering when Lab puppies finally calm down. First, for those that do not know, the Labrador Retriever breed is not for those that want to lay back on the couch and toss back a few beers. Labs are people dogs meaning that they are very sociable and do not like to be left on their own all the time. They have a great deal of enthusiasm and energy. That is why it is important for this breed to get plenty of exercise and social interaction. We did a lot of research about the breed and found that many people have their own ideas on the age of maturation. In all honesty, there are differing levels of energy that the Lab will go through during its life and from the age of about 10 weeks old to 5 years old, the energy level can remain quite high. Stage 2: Toddler — This stage starts around weeks old and goes until about 5 months old. The energy level is quite high at this time as the puppy is learning all it can about the world and go through many biological changes. It tests its environment with its mouth and as it gets towards the end of this stage, it begins to chew on everything it can to try and get relief from teething. It is usually to have some terry cloth towels that have been soaked in water and sitting in your freezer, waiting to be gnawed on! Stage 3: Adolescent — This is a tough stage and starts around 5 months old and go anywhere up to a year, depending on the dog. Some would call it the terrible twos because all of a sudden, your sweet Lab baby has forgotten everything you have taught it and has the manners of any human teenager out there! Sure, they know not to go on the couch but they will test you again and make sure you meant it. This is when you need to reinforce all your training because if you let them get away with it now, it is harder to break them of it later! Stage 4: Maturing — Usually this starts around a year old and goes until the 5-year old stage. The level of energy is still high and is equal to a college student or young twenty-something adult. They get more comfortable with their surroundings and take a little more time to enjoy life and the company of their owner and family. This is more of an enjoyable time with your family Lab! Stage 5: Senior — Around 5 years and up, the little puppy you once knew with all the energy level of an energizer bunny is there in spirit but the body is slowing down more. They still have a good amount of energy but nothing compared o stages 2 and 3! Life is good and comfortable. So, when does a Lab puppy start to calm down? Well, generally it is around stage 4 but can happen before that stage. The one thing people with Labrador Retrievers, or any dog for that matter, need to understand is that each dog is different. Yes, there are certain traits in the Lab breed for which we eagerly welcomed them into our home, but just as human identical twins can have opposite personalities, so can your Labrador Retriever. For example, if you are in stage 2, there is housebreaking and teething to deal with. Your puppy also needs help with getting rid of some of that pent up energy it has and it is your responsibility to give it safe and structured ways to expel that energy. Short walks work well on soft surfaces for young pups as well as schedule play times. Whatever you choose to do, high energy levels in Labs are normal during certain stages — just remember to enjoy them while you can because your Lab will only be a puppy once. Post navigation. Puppy growth is also related to proper diet: weekly growth rate varies from breed to breed but proper nutrition of the puppy influences each individual's growth curve. The diet of a growing puppy requires more protein and healthy fats, such as the omega-3 DHA Regardless of breed, all puppies are born dependent on mom, so proper nutrition of mom during pregnancy helps in the early stages of puppy development. The first months play a crucial role in determining a dog's lifelong health and well-being. Prenatal period: mother's gestation The time puppies spend in the womb is usually called the prenatal period. It lasts about days, and the puppy's development begins during this stage. A pregnant mother should exercise less and receive more care in the last weeks before delivery-she should not be exposed to unnecessary stress. The health of the puppy is influenced by the mother as early as the prenatal stage: the amount of stress and hormones the mother secretes is transmitted to the puppies through the placenta, and this can affect the growth of the fetus as well as any intestinal parasites such as the ascarids , can pass from the placenta to the fetus even before birth or enter the milk through the mammary glands. For this reason, our breeding philosophy requires us to avoid all forms of chemicals by following a natural supplementation protocol during gestation as well as then natural deworming on the puppies. Prenatal stress can affect puppies' brains and organs, causing them to establish behavior in stressful situations before they are even born. It may make puppies less curious, they may have reduced learning ability, they may be more aggressive or have changes in sexual behavior. During pregnancy, the mother needs supplementation and amore nutritious diet than usual because she no longer eats only for herself. Neonatal period Stage beginning from birth to the second week of life. At birth, pups are blind, deaf and toothless, unable to regulate body temperature, urinate or defecate on their own. Pups depend on their mother and siblings in the litter, staying very close together to preserve body temperature. A puppy separated from this situation can quickly die of hypothermia, which leads to a drop in body temperature. If a puppy is isolated from its mother and siblings, it can quickly cool down and cry to alert its mother of its situation. Read also: neurosensory stimulation program Biosensor Puppies first experience the feeling of being petted when they are licked by their mother to keep them clean, to keep her den clean and also to stimulate them to defecate and urinate. From birth, pups are able to use their sense of smell and touch, which helps them orient themselves to find the udders that carry their mother's scent. The first milk produced by the mother, called colostrum, is rich in antibodies that provide passive immunity and help protect puppies from disease during these first weeks of life. For the first two weeks of life, puppies sleep almost 90 percent of the time, are active only 10 percent of the day, spending their waking time sucking milk, and all their energy is channeled into growing so that their birth weight doubles the first week. At this stage the puppies are not able to support their weight but are able to crawl with the movements of their front paws, however, the mother will always try to position herself as close to them and group them by bringing them to herself with her muzzle. This limited locomotion, however, provides the necessary stimulus to develop the puppy's muscles and coordination so that, day after day, the puppies will be able to reach their mother even on their own. Transition period This stage is from the second to the fourth week of life. The third week of life brings major changes in the puppy: hearing and vision are not developed from birth. Eyes begin to open during this period, eyelids between ten and sixteen days, and hearing begins to develop around two weeks. This stage allows puppies to "feel" their new world: they learn to recognize the appearance of their mother, other dogs, and begin to expand their vocabulary from grunts and yelps. Puppies generally stand by day 15 and take their first wobbly walk by day .At the age of three weeks, puppy development advances from the neonatal period to the transitional period. This is a period of rapid physical and sensory development, during which pups move from total dependence on mother to minimal independence. They begin to play with their littermates, learn about their environment, the pack, and may be ready to taste wet food never dry in weaning other than breast milk in moderation. After three weeks puppy teeth begin to emerge until all baby teeth have come out at about weeks of age. They begin to control their needs and begin to move away from their nest to remove them. After the transition phase, puppies enter the socialization period at the end of the third week of life: this phase lasts until about the tenth week. During this socialization period, the puppy increases interaction with other animals, and puppies form bonds that they will remember for the rest of their lives. The most critical period, from six to eight weeks, is when puppies most easily learn to accept others as part of their family. Starting at four weeks of age, the mother's milk production begins to slow down just as the puppies' energy needs increase. As the mother dog slowly weans her puppies from nursing, they begin to taste easy-to-digest wet food. Environmental stimulation affects your puppy's rate of mental development during this period. The puppy's synapses look like those of an adult dog around day 50, but it is not yet ready: this is where the work of the breeder, mother and littermates comes in. During this period, puppies hear, walk, become acquainted with the world around them noises, sounds, smells, habits , feed independently, learn bite control, and receive correct teachings from their mother on how to relate to each other. At this stage the puppy basically learns to recognize the individuals around it as living beings of the same species with whom it can communicate, play, and interact in different ways. At this stage, therefore, it is very important that the puppy also have many experiences with the human being in such a way that it identifies with and sees him as a living being with whom it can communicate and interact positively. The more diversified the experience in this regard the better so men, women, children, humans in different clothes and various disguises, etc. At this stage, puppies may go through a period offear fear period : when they encounter new people and animals they do not know, they may react with fear and distrust. Anything that frightens them at this age can have a lasting impact, so be careful that the puppy is not over-stimulated with too many changes. This allows the puppy to grow up with fewer phobias-it is simply a normal part of development in which puppies learn to be more cautious, and careful socialization during this period helps counteract fear reactions as adults. A puppy that lives with siblings, mom, and other adults in the group until they are eight weeks old will adapt better to new situations: their interaction with littermates and mom have unique and unparalleled value Interaction with siblings and mom helps teach bite inhibition, understanding and responding to normal canine communication and their hierarchical position in the pack. Youth period The pup's juvenile period generally begins at the age of ten weeks and lasts until puberty and the onset of sexual maturity. Puppies of this age have boundless curiosity, infuriating stubbornness and enthusiastic affection. This is the ideal time to begin training: it is during this period that puppies begin to learn the consequences of behavior and determine what is most appropriate under certain circumstances. Almost every waking moment is spent playing, which is not only great fun for the puppy, but is great practice for his future canine life. From 10 weeks of age, puppies learn to perform important activities such as chasing and running, biting and fighting. Social skills and canine etiquette are learned from interaction with littermates and mother. During this period, puppies learn to inhibit their b iting when bitten by each other and learn canine language: through play, they practice dominant and submissive positions and prepare for life in the world. From 10 to 16 weeks, puppies test their limits and begin to challenge the outside world. They test their owners to see who is the real top dog and seem to have forgotten any education they learned from their mother, behaving like rebellious teenagers. Part of this behavior has to do with teething: puppies change their baby teeth from three months of age and may experience discomfort when their permanent teeth erupt. Often during this period, puppies tend to bite and chew more of anything to relieve the discomfort. This "delinquent" behavior can also be influenced by hormones: unlike many other species, the testosterone level of a male puppy between four and ten months old can be up to five times that of an adult dog. Because of this high level of testosterone adult dogs recognize that he is a young puppy and needs "education"-they make sure to subdue him to teach him manners before he gets too old. Growth from four to six months Puppies grow very fast during this period, and you may notice changes every single day. Not only can your puppy test and challenge you on anything, but this is also the time when puppies understand where they are and living with other pets in the pack. They will be frequent scuffles and fights as play: it is a rule of the older dog to teach puppies its limits and social position. The testosterone level of a whole unneutered male puppy increases around 4 to 5 months of age: because of this, an adult dog can recognize even a full-grown but still small puppy that needs to be educated in proper behavior between beings of the same species. Puppies may also sometimes experience another phase of fear during this period: it can last up to a month and perhaps more than one especially in large dogs, this is normal and nothing to worry about. This fearful phase tends to correspond to growth spurts and "wobbly" behavior or unwarranted aggression, becoming protective of toys or one's territory. Be sure not to reward this behavior and to "talk" to the puppy with precise actions without using words. Build trust between you and your puppy through daily training. Adolescence: six to 12 months During this period puppies may begin to lift their legs and mark their territory with urine, but there is no one age for all, much also depends on size, and generally large breeds such as the Labrador Retriever take longer. The testosterone level in male puppies increases times that of an adult dog at the age of 10 months, then gradually declines to a normal adult level at about 18 months of age. This helps signal to older male dogs that the young still need to be adjusted so as to reduce fights between puppies during this period. Females can go into heat oestrus as early as the 6th month, and males begin to take an interest in the opposite sex during this period. Most of your puppy's height growth ends at this time, to continue to increase muscle mass and body weight. Puppy fur begins to be replaced by a more robust coat as an adult. Puppies at this age seem to explode with great energy and respond well with mental activation games and structured exercises. Ongoing education and socialization are vital to ensure that your puppy knows how to behave politely with other dogs, other animals such as cats, and other people including the dog-child relationship and strangers of all ages and appearance. Social maturity This usually occurs between the first and second year of life. Depending on the breed, your dog will be physically mature at this age: small dogs mature much earlier and older dogs take longer. Your puppy's social maturity may also depend on his experience with other animals. Socialization and training continue throughout your Labrador's life, because there are always new things to learn or lessons to repeat. After all, the joy of your puppy's first year provides for a lifetime of eternal love! But those first weeks of puppy development are very similar whatever the breed, and these landmarks are good general rules for any dog. Puppy development week by week, changes quickly. Newborn Puppies Newborn puppies are born at the end of nine weeks of pregnancy, with their eyes and ears tightly closed. They already have a fur coat but they cannot yet control their own body temperature. They are dependent on their mother or another heat source to keep them warm. Newborn puppies may cry if cold. But they do not have the strength to cry for long. Newborn Labrador puppies snuggle together to keep warm when their mother is away How Helpless are Newborn Pups? Although they rely on mom for a lot at this stage, newborn puppies are not completely helpless. They can use their front feet to drag themselves towards a heat source or their milk supply. This means their mom, not milk alternatives like cow or goat milk. Newborn pups have no teeth yet. But they can move their heads about to search for a nipple, and they can latch on and suck strongly. Their mother leaves them only to eat, drink and for bathroom purposes. While she is away, the puppies will crawl together to preserve their body heat, as you can see in the photo above. They may also crawl under a heat lamp source to keep warm. In every other respect newborn puppies are completely dependent on the care of their mother. Newborn pups have little control over the rear end of their bodies. The mother dog washes them and licks their bottoms to encourage elimination, licking up and swallowing anything they produce to keep her babies and their nest scrupulously clean. In fact, he may even double his birth weight! One week later and the puppies have doubled their birth weight. Changes are taking place under his eyelids to prepare them for opening. And usually begins during the second week of life. Ears open at this point too, so your puppy will begin to hear. The Labrador puppies in this picture are two weeks olds. Two weeks old and the puppies eyes are now open! You can see that their eyes are now open and the puppies are beginning to look a little more dog-like. The breeder will be handling the puppies more now. And most puppies are wormed for the first time at two weeks old. Most 3 week old puppies can stand and sit, and are beginning to totter about. They are also starting to develop their individuality. No longer are they just a row of identical little fat furry sausages! This little three week old puppy :- Can easily be distinguished from his brother: Teething and Further Development At 3 weeks old, this is also the point at which puppies start teething — cutting their first deciduous baby teeth. Obviously the teeth are appearing for a reason! Some breeders will start to offer the first tastes of solid food at this point. Especially if the litter is a large one and putting a strain on the mother dog. It is lovely to watch a litter of 3 week old puppies beginning to interact with their brothers and sisters. They are running, playing enthusiastically, and have started to wag their little tails. The puppies will start to show bowel control as they move away from the other puppies to defecate. And solid food is becoming a major part of their diet. These little pups are tucking into some puppy food. Four week old puppies having their dinner in the fresh air If the weather is warm enough, puppies will be spending some time outdoors now. Mealtimes are a messy process, so feeding puppies out in the yard can be a good idea. Breeder Involvement Some mother dogs will lose interest in cleaning up after their pups at this point or soon afterwards. And many puppies will be wormed again this week. Vocalizations are becoming stronger at this puppy development stage. The litter will greet their mother noisily when she returns to them, and try hard to follow her out of the whelping box whenever she leaves. The puppies themselves are now eating solid food several times a day and gradually being weaned of their dependency on her milk. Puppies will still suckle ravenously when their mother returns and she will now often feed them standing up and only for a short time. She will also be teaching the puppies not to bite too hard. So, they should be increasingly spending time with humans and learning to be familiar with the sounds and sights of a human family environment. Puppies being raised in kennels must be brought into a home environment regularly from now on to ensure they develop into confident, friendly dogs. Six weeks old and full of mischief Puppies Still Have a Lot to Learn at 6 Weeks In some countries, puppies are taken to their new homes at this age. But this is not a good idea, and can result in a puppy that has poor bite inhibition and is challenging to manage. The puppies are learning not to bite too hard from the reactions of their mother and siblings. Growth is not quite so fast now. But the puppies will still grow strongly for the next few months. Many puppies will be wormed again this week. All that remains is for plenty of great socialization experiences to be packed into this week, with final checks on health. Many breeders will arrange for each seven week old puppy to have a vet check this week. And though some vets advise against it, some puppies are also given their first vaccinations before they leave for their new homes. Some breeders will now have the puppies trained to pee and poop on puppy pads or newspaper. And some will have been whistling to the puppies at meal times to get them used to coming to a human signal. Potty training is now underway and puppy socialization plans are being made. At this point, many of you will be thinking about training your puppy too. The next four weeks are vital in puppy development stages. Your main job is socializing your puppy. This means taking him to lots of new places and exposing him to lots of new experiences. So, life will be starting to get back to normal. Most puppies in the U. In the U. So, not all puppies will get their vaccinations at the exact same age. Socializing your puppy is still the most important job for you at this age. But, you cannot put your puppy on the ground outside until they have received their final vaccination. So, make sure you know exactly when their final jab is. And carry on introducing them to as many new people, things, and experiences as possible throughout this puppy development stage. Some people can suffer from the puppy blues at this stage too, as your life has completely changed! But, that does not mean socialization can stop. Puppies who are isolated at this point will soon lose that friendly fearlessness. You have an important job now, building on what has been achieved so far, and introducing your puppy to the world at ground level. This part of his education can begin once his vaccination cover is complete. He should be fully immunised at around this point. But check with your vet for confirmation of the actual date. Three months also marks the point at which many puppies will drop down from four daily meals, to three. This can cause problems for some puppies because the portions are larger If your puppy gets an upset tummy when you make this change, just go back up to four meals again for a few days, and give smaller portions for a few days when you try again. But, many will need another month before they can cope without frequent bathroom breaks and the occasional accident. Your puppy will begin to lose his baby teeth. This can also be a time at which biting can be most challenging. And try not to worry, this stage will soon be over! A few will need another month or two to complete the process. Remember, no two puppies are the same. That puppy fluffiness will have gone. For many puppies, five months is an awkward, gangly time. A five month old puppy may have shed the last of his soft puppy lines and be looking quite skinny. By the end of this month most puppies will have finished teething but an urge to chew may continue for another few months in some breeds, Labradors included. Some female dogs will have their first season during this month. But, for many, it will be another three or four months before this happens. This is a major milestone for your puppy. He is now looking very much like an adult Labrador. Still a Puppy Because he looks quite grown up, people expect a lot of their 6 month old puppy. But inside, he is still very much a puppy. The beginnings of adolescence and with it an increasing independence of spirit can bring its challenges, but also a whole lot of fun. Puppy training development after 6 months It is very tempting to get carried away with puppy training. Your young do is so willing to please and such fun to be around. It is important to go at a happy pace for you both. Positive reinforcement training is the right choice for your puppy because there are no negative consequences to getting something wrong. But you can still both suffer from burnout and frustration if you try to reach the later puppy training stages without totally aceing the earlier developments. Your Puppy Training Schedule This may not be exactly the same for each puppy, especially with retrieving which is more Labrador specific. However, it gives you a rough idea. Constantly changing direction. Stopping frequently for cuddles and rewards. This means I blow the recall whistle whenever the puppy runs towards me, no compulsion, and no whistle unless the recall is already underway. Socialisation: Lots almost daily of outings to different places rural and urban carried Visits to family and friends. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow mouthing. Working with food: Learning how to take food gently without snatching or grabbing at the treat pot. I still give the puppy lots of encouragement by running away as soon as I blow the whistle. Socialisation: More socialisation, at least twice a week to busy public places. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow gentle mouthing. Retrieving: Encourage chase and pick up retrieve drive. Hand touch: I teach all new puppies to touch my hand with their noses. This is a great foundation for other skills. Recall: Puppy recall continues, reduce my run to a walk, avoid any distractions. Still frequently blow the recall whenever the pup runs towards me of her own free will. Socialisation: From ground level after vaccination. No other leash walking at all Bite inhibition: No biting, gentle mouthing allowed. Retrieving: Continue to build drive. Positions: I introduce three positions — sit, stand, down. What to expect from your 3 month old puppy Most three month old puppies will be sleeping through the night. And will be having less potty training accidents in the house. There are a few potty training problems that arise at this age, and they are all covered in 15 potty training problems solved. Biting is a big shock and a big problem for many new Lab puppy parents so do check out our complete guide to biting , and join the forum for help and support. Help encourage your puppy to stay in their bed while you are eating. I have a pot of dog treats on our kitchen table, and whenever we sit down to a meal, the puppy gets a treat each time she steps into her basket. Just a treat for stepping in there. What to expect from your 4 month old puppy Your 4 month old puppy will be pretty much potty trained, but accidents still happen if they are left alone too long. Biting is usually starting to subside now, and many four month old puppies will be able to mouth at your hand without hurting you. At this point I start to discourage all mouthing. I teach every puppy to let me touch her face or approach her with my hand, food, a leash etc while holding eye contact and not grabbing at me, or at what is in my hand. This is the age at which people often start to push forward with training. Your 4 month old puppy is capable of quite a lot. There is nothing wrong with teaching your puppy different cues and even some tricks. I recommend you still avoid long duration activities at this point as they are a common stumbling point with puppies young enough to have a short attention span. A ten second sit is ample. Add mild distractions Recall: Fade additional cues. Begin to whistle the pup and stand still. Add mild distractions. Clicker train to polish this in more mouthy puppies. No commands are needed for this. Gradual introduction of distractions. Advanced puppy training begins in earnest This is where I start a programme of sporting training with my Labs. You can begin raising your standards and expectations, asking for longer and more complex behaviors. Teaching your puppy to walk to heel nicely for longer distance and past all kinds of distractions and temptations. Or teaching your puppy to sit and stay for longer periods of time, and even while you go out of sight or while other dogs play nearby. What to expect from your six month old puppy Six months is a common time for people to have a lot of questions and to be struggling with a few challenges. This is now a very bouncy, quite powerful and rapidly maturing young dog. And you may need to patch up a few holes in his training or manners. We have a great article for owners of six month old Lab puppies. Save to Pinterest The Stages of Puppy Growth and Development Month by Month The following are the stages of puppy growth and development, starting at birth and ending when your dog reaches adulthood. The Neonatal Stage 0 to 2 weeks This is the newborn puppy growth stage that lasts until two weeks of age. At this developmental stage, puppies are blind and deaf. Expect puppies at this point to sleep almost constantly and their mother will take care of everything, keeping them warm, feeding them, and keeping them clean. The Transitional Stage 2 to 4 weeks At this puppy growth stage , they will start to open up their eyes and respond to sounds, light, and movement around them. You will also notice a puppy at this point starting to get more mobile, although they will still tend to crawl instead of walking. They do, however, have enough strength to stand up, but will stumble a lot. A puppy in this developmental stage will just be starting to recognize their siblings and mother. Lab puppies open their eyes at about two weeks old. By this time, Labrador puppies will have their eyes fully open and most will be at least partly open. Ears open at this point too and your puppy will begin to hear. Period of Awakening of Senses 3 to 4 weeks At this period , a puppy develops various senses rapidly. They start to get fully alert and aware of their environment and may recognize you and other humans that are frequently around. The Socialization Period 4 to 7 Weeks Once a puppy is around four weeks old, they start to learn the most important things in life-related to social development. They will learn to not bite all the time and how to interact with their siblings. Interactions with humans are especially important between five and seven weeks. This is also the time they will start to understand discipline thanks to their mother. She will start weaning her puppies and teaching them manners, like acknowledging she is in charge. As the owner, you can start introducing food to your puppy when they are around four weeks old. Start small and begin to give them more food as the mother continues to wean them. You should also continue handling the puppy every day. However, be sure not to separate them from their siblings or mother for over ten minutes each day, since this can lead to issues with training and socialization. Dogs who are separated too soon may also be nervous and more likely to bark and bite. During this period, let the mother dog take care of discipline; you should not correct the dog for mouthing or housebreaking mistakes until later in life. To help ease them through this process, avoid traumatic events, loud voices, or harsh discipline. You should also make sure your pooch has plenty of human contact during this stage. If you want, you can start leash training and even teach simple commands such as sit, down, stay and come. In terms of development, you will notice that your puppy can sleep through the whole night and starts to develop better control of its bowels and bladder. Most vets suggest that new outings should wait until they are fully vaccinated. We rub the Calmeroos Puppy Toy on littermates and mom to get their scent. When we get home the Calmeroos Puppy Toy helps our puppy feel comfortable and adjust more quickly to his new environment. Many puppies will go to their new homes at around 8 weeks old. We recently put together a blog post on our sister site detailing what you can expect from an 8-week-old puppy. The Juvenile Stage 3 to 4 Months At this point in development, a puppy can be compared to a juvenile. They will be more independent and may ignore the basic commands that they know very well. If this happens, firmly and gently reinforce the commands and other training. You may also notice your pup starting to test your authority by play biting or similar actions. You can also redirect your dog to a toy that they can bite. Either can end up teaching your pooch that it is okay to fight with you and challenge your authority. The Ranking Period 3 to 6 Months When your puppy is between four and six months old, you should expect them to be somewhat bratty, showing more willfulness and independence. They are more likely to test your limits and may try to show dominance over children or other family members. If they fail to listen to you or come when called, it can be dangerous as it puts them at risk of injury when in public. It can also hurt future responses to you, making them less likely to listen. This is also when your dog will be teething, so give them toys like frozen dog Kong toys to relieve pressure and pain. Chewing behaviors will also start growing at this point so look for some safe chew toys to keep your dog entertained. This is when hormonal changes start to occur and is the ideal time to spay or neuter your pup. UC Davis published a study comparing the long-term health effects of neutering in Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers. Adolescence 6 to 18 Months After six months, your pup is already in the final stage of puppy development but is still young. This is a fun and exciting time for your pooch since they will be learning, full of energy, and exuberant. During this time, it is important to remember that even if your puppy now looks like a grown-up dog, they are still a puppy, at least in its mental capacity and emotional maturity. Work to slowly increase training and other activities. You can even work on advanced training such as agility or herding. Another option is to simply keep training them to ensure they interact in a non-aggressive and non-threatening way with other animals. It is also possible that your dog will go through another fearful period of time at some point after they reach six months. You can speed up the process with counter-conditioning and desensitization. It fits very well and is quite apt! Final Thoughts With the knowledge of how and when your new puppy will develop, you are better able to meet their needs. Provide socialization at the appropriate times and be sure to give your puppy plenty of social interactions with their siblings as well as humans and any other pets in your home. Your dog should reach maturity at some point between one and two years old with plenty of variation based on breed, Labradors are considered mature at between 2 and 2. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining. Almost Home Campaign Puppy Developmental Stages and Behaviour To have a well-adjusted and social dog, you need to ensure his needs are met during each phase of development. Building the foundation for a great dog starts with appropriate training at each stage of development and establishing appropriate guidelines so that that your puppy is properly integrated into the family. You will see many behaviour changes during the life stages of your pup. Knowing how to handle your pup through each developmental stage will help to shape your puppy into a lifelong family member. Puppy Developmental Stages The puppy development process covers five distinct stages. However, puppies grow through these stages at their own pace and these timelines can vary. Stage 1: Neonatal Period 0 — 2 weeks This is the first stage of puppy development and begins at birth. At this age, puppies only have the sense of taste and touch and rely totally on their mother. Stage 2: Transitional Period 2 — 4 weeks Sensory development continues with hearing and sense of smell. Puppy teeth start coming through and their eyes will begin to open. Puppies will interact with their litter mates, wag their tails, stand, walk a little and bark. It is vital to understand this stage as most puppies go home to their new parents between 7 — 12 weeks. During this period, changes start to occur rapidly. Between 3- 5 weeks puppies start to become aware of their surroundings and have the ability to develop a relationship with people This is the period where puppies get familiar with the day-to-day noises of a regular household such as TVs, vacuum cleaners, telephones, etc. At this age puppies are just learning to interact with each other and beginning to play. They are also learning their doggie social skills and exploring their ranking status within their pack. Their curiosity is developing, as are their biting skills. Nipping behaviours begin as they practice biting behaviour with their mother and litter mates. At the weeks stage, they will have full use of all their senses and will be ready to go home to their new owners. Bringing your pup home usually between weeks is right in the middle of his socialization period. Therefore, it is vital that you introduce your puppy to as many new dogs, people, objects and surroundings as you can. BUT, make sure you do so in a controlled manner and never put your puppy in a dangerous situation where they can be injured, scared or contract disease. This is a great period to begin crate training, for a variety of reasons. Puppies are old enough to start getting used to being left alone to avoid separation anxiety from developing and are capable of being house-trained. Even though your home is likely puppy proofed, it also saves your possessions. During this phase of development, puppies are developing their reactions to things much more consistently. They are also likely to focus more on different types of people and should be friendly and approachable to strangers. During this time they are also going to continue to practice their biting skills a whole lot more! It is important to learn how to manage this behaviour early on. You may also notice that they are more curious and will probably look to explore their environment more. Be prepared for this and keep your puppy close to you and leashed. Stage 4: Testing Period 3 — 6 months This is the time your puppy starts to test their boundaries within their world. They will test the limits with their owners and other animals. At this age many adult dogs will start to enforce manners. Problematic behaviours can begin to arise in this period. At this age your puppy is going to go through teething and chewing is a common side effect. Make sure he has plenty of chew sticks and toys. Use commercial sprays or gels that dissuade your puppy from chewing your belongings. Try soaking a cloth toy in chicken stock and freezing it if your puppy is experiencing pain while teething. Once frozen, this can be given to your puppy as a chew toy and will help to relieve sore gums. Puppies are usually finished teething by the age of 6 months when the upper fangs canines come in. Your cute little puppy is becoming a teenager and will start producing hormones which may result in changes in behaviour. Dogs go through adolescence much earlier than people; for small breeds, is can be as early as six months old while larger dogs starting at nine or 10 months of age. Adolescence in larger breed dogs continues until they are two or three years old with smaller dogs reaching maturity at about 18 months. Typically the larger the dog, the slower the development. Signs of Puberty in Canines Here are the typical signs to watch out for to tell you that your own puppy has hit puberty: Males.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Deer Creek Comfort Dogs Shaping future companions for families and those in need of comfort Our family has been raising puppies for over 20 years. Our children have always had a passion for dogs which began our journey and now our grandchildren enjoy growing up with our wonderful dogs by their side. Deer Creek provides emotional support dogs, therapy dogs, service and therapy prospects, canine good citizen dogs as well as family pets. Deer Creek assists our families with puppy selection to help ensure the families get the puppy that will work well with their needs. Someone once said, "Acquiring a dog may be the only opportunity a human ever has to choose a relative" and we hope you choose one of ours. If you are interested in finding your new family member, fill out our puppy application and we will be thrilled to work with you. We recognize that our dogs have the capability of changing peoples' lives on a therapeutic level. Many of our Doodles have become therapy dogs at funeral homes, children's advocacy centers, hospitals and nursing homes, and others have found homes as anxiety, PTSD and emotional support dogs. Learn more about our nonprofit organization Deer Creek Paw Prints at www. Learn More Molly, Rhys, and Beau! Our puppies are all over the world and would be happy to make you part of our puppy family. Thank you for visiting South Florida Australian Labradoodles. .We are the first multigenerational registered Australian Labradoodle in South Florida. We started in with our first mini Australian Labradoodle and fell in love with the temperament of this breed. Since then, we have held back mostly our own puppies and created the amazing lines we have today. We have generation after generation of our same lines, so our puppies temperaments are very predictable. We have since grown to our wonderful puppies being all over the world. We specialize in Mini Australian Labradoodles and know how important it is to know you are getting an Authentic Australian Labradoodle that is healthy, sound temperament, correct structure and amazing coats. All of our breeding dogs are registered and health tested to the standards of the ALAA. We adhere to a strict code of ethics, breed standard and strive to do everything with the highest integrity. All of our puppies are raised in our home and receive endless kisses by the time they go home. If you did not receive a response please check your junk mail. Rainmaker Ranch Labradoodle Breeders Mission: To bring families an exceptional labradoodle, exceptional in labradoodle health, temperament and conformation. We have completed all the canine expert suggested labradoodle genetic health testing on all the generations of your labradoodle puppy to ensure a lifetime of health. Labradoodle Breeders since We believe that to breed a healthy labradoodle family companion, then the parents of your labradoodle puppy must also be healthy family companions! We are very careful in ensuring that the parents of your labradoodle puppy have the same temperament you would want in a family labradoodle dog. We are three expert labradoodle breeders working together, we only have one or two Australian labradoodle dogs each and one litter at a time so we can focus on the labradoodle puppies and the families who are adopting them, our labradoodle breeding dogs are loved family pets always living inside with us. We breed labradoodles in our home under the supervision of our veterinarian breeding specialist, we do not cage or kennel our dogs or puppies. Our Australian Labradoodle breeding dogs are members of our family, sleeping on our kids' beds at night, living indoors, and are loved constantly. Our belief is that being a labradoodle breeder is not a right, but a responsibility to the labradoodle breeding dogs and puppies. We only breed fleece coats, soft and loopy. We breed wide body, stocky, silly labradoodle dogs. We do not think labradoodles should look like any other breed; just a cool looking casual dog. We breed labradoodles for non shed and allergy friendly as much as a dog can be coats. Australian Labradoodle Breeders It takes years to develop a solid program of healthy, great temperament Labradoodle parent dogs who in turn bring along consistent, soft fleece coated, incredible Australian Labradoodle puppies. Come visit our home, be greeted by our incredible labradoodle dogs and talk with us about our labradoodle breeding program. This includes everything you need to know about our excellent Labradoodle Puppy breeder Program, from wait list, labradoodle health, labradoodle size, color, available labradoodle puppies, and labradoodle information to prepare you for your new Labradoodle puppy. With high energy, this breed is not for the faint of heart. While your Mini Labradoodle will be perfectly content to snuggle up on the couch with you, he needs rigorous exercise to ensure optimal health. Thanks to their Poodle ancestry, our Mini Labradoodles are whip smart — making them a breeze to train with positive reinforcement — but this is tempered by the easygoing nature of the standard Labrador. Sociable and friendly, our Mini Labradoodles for sale get along well with other dogs — but their high energy may make them a bit too exuberant when it comes to play! Mini Labradoodle Puppies Health Considerations Every breed of dog comes with its own unique health considerations. Though generally healthy and long lived — with an average lifespan of 12 to 14 years — our Mini Labradoodle puppies for sale are no exception. This will help you quickly identify symptoms and seek immediate treatment should an issue arise. They can also be short, dense, and sometimes harsh in texture, more similar to the Labrador. Like all doodles, Mini Labradoodles come with a range of coat varieties. Some take more after their Labrador parent—with straighter coats—and others have the tight ringlets of their Poodle parent. Most will fall somewhere in between, and nearly all Mini Labradoodle puppies have coats with minimal shedding. Initially, you will need to brush your Mini Labradoodle puppy around four times a week until his coat is established — at around eight to 12 months, you can reduce this to three times a week. You can take your Mini Labradoodle pup to the groomer for a trim between two and four times a year — with many owners opting for seasonal cuts — but should wait until your pup sheds his baby fur before taking him for his first cut! Meet Mini Labradoodle Puppies for Sale. We are a small home-based breeder of Puppy Culture raised Australian labradoodles in Southern Colorado. We breed medium and standard-sized Australian labradoodles. We only breed for the enjoyment of the puppies and to further promote labradoodles that are of excellent health, conformation, and temperament. Our Australian labradoodles are bred with responsibility and integrity. Our goal is to place these special dogs into homes where they will be loved and cherished companions. We stand by you, and offer continuous lifetime support. We do this because we love dogs, and the Labradoodle breed. Labradoodles are known for their intelligence, level-headedness, affection, sociability and cheerful disposition. They are loyal, friendly, eager to please, even-tempered, gentle and kind. This combination of traits makes them outstanding service and therapy dogs, as well as terrific family companions. We produce exceptional labradoodles because each litter is carefully planned. We keep two vital factors in mind as we make our selection: temperament and health. Each puppy born in our home is handled daily. Colorado Mountain Labradoodles utilize early neurological stimulation, as well as the puppy culture method which represents a gold standard in puppy rearing and early socialization. We also use both the Empowered Breeder, and Avidog Evaluation Test to evaluate the temperament of each puppy. A lot of doodle breeders are now claiming they raise their puppies using the Puppy Culture. There are lots of reinforcement based breeders out there who are doing a magnificent job but have never seen Puppy Culture, or followed the whole protocol. Make sure the breeder provides videos, and other information on their weekly updates. We follow Puppy Culture thoroughly, and by the time our puppies are 8 weeks old, they have been started on the commands: sit, down, watch me and go to your place. They have been conditioned with the clicker, and are excited to be trained. Our Australian labradoodles are highly intelligent and are simple to train. They quickly learn standard obedience commands, such as sit, down, come and stay. They thrive on being mentally and physically engaged. They love playing and interacting with people and other dogs, especially in games involving chase, fetch or hide-and-seek. Families also find that our labradoodles enjoy participating in competitive canine activities, such as tricks, agility and obedience. As with almost any breed, their socialization and training should start at an early age and continue throughout their life. They share a love of water with their field Labrador and Poodle ancestors and often will enter water without prompting. All of our puppies receive love and care from everyone in the family. By the time they are ready to go home with you, they will be used to children and other dogs, and ready to go home to be a loving member of your family. Our dogs are treated as family, and are included in our daily routines. Life Span Did You Know? Second-generation crosses could include a Labradoodle and a Mini Poodle or two Mini Labradoodles as parents. This hybrid dog breed was originally developed to create smaller potential service dogs that might be a good fit for people with allergies to dog fur. With a mixed breed, you can end up with any combination of traits from the parent breeds. Often, Mini Labradoodles are smart, friendly, and sociable dogs that are highly trainable. They are often found working as service dogs and therapy dogs and living as beloved family companions. Although they are not recognized by the AKC, the Mini Labradoodle is recognized by other canine registries. A Mini Labradoodle is a combination of two friendly dog breeds that crave human affection and are always happy to have company. These dogs also tend to have playful, energetic personalities and low prey drives. Well-socialized Mini Labradoodles tend to get along well with children, other dogs, and other pets. Due to their smaller size, these dogs can be injured by accidental rough play or accidental falls, so any interactions between young kids and puppies should be closely supervised. Miniature Labradoodles will usually bark to alert you when someone is at the door, but generally are not prone to nuisance barking unless they have been trained into it. It may not be a bad idea to train your dog to stop barking early on. Well-socialized Mini Labradoodles may be initially wary of strangers, but tend to warm up quickly and will often be happy to make a new friend. Miniature Labradoodles are highly adaptable. Provided they get enough exercise, attention, and mental stimulation, they can adapt well to apartments as well as larger homes. They tend to do best in moderate climates, but can tolerate warmer or colder climates. As with any dog, they are sensitive to heat. Although they tend to have a fluffier coat, they are also smaller and may need to bundle up in some winter dog products to stay warm while out on walks in the cold. Mini Labradoodles are also very much companion breeds. They bond closely with their families and thrive on being near them, so they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. The health of the parents and good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of Mini Labradoodle puppies. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. Make sure you are asking the breeder about the health and genetic history of both parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done to help allay any concerns you may have. Miniature Labradoodles tend to be highly intelligent and eager to please. This generally makes them easy to train and a good fit for owners of all experience levels. In fact, their parent breeds are considered some of the best dog breeds for first-time owners. These dogs respond best to consistent training and positive reinforcement. Puppy training classes can ensure that owners of any experience level learn the latest training techniques and start building a strong bond with their puppy. Grooming requirements with a Mini Labradoodle can vary. On the Poodle side, you have a low-shedding, but high-maintenance, coat that needs daily brushing along with trimming and grooming every weeks. On the Lab side, you have a higher shedding coat that is more low-maintenance, requiring some weekly brushing or brushing a few times a week and intermittent bathing. Overall, Mini Labradoodles range from having a non- to low-shedding coat. They can have one coat type or the other, or a combination of both of them. So, you will want to be prepared for brushing a coat a few times a week and the possibility of more grooming needs. Regardless of coat type, there are some other general grooming tasks you can count on. Regular dental care for your dog will help prevent serious dental issues like gum disease and tooth decay later in life. This is especially important for dog breeds with floppy ears as they are more prone to developing ear infections. Miniature Labradoodles can be high-energy dogs. In general, they require daily walks plus some playtime and extra activity to be happy and healthy. Since they love to be around their family and can have an exuberant and outgoing personality, they will likely be up for more playtime if you are. This little dog may get tired more easily at times and could push themselves too far in their excitement. On the other hand, they may just keep going and going with no signs of slowing down. What is most important is making sure your Miniature Labradoodle gets enough exercise and mental stimulation. Fully-grown Mini Labradoodles usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. Miniature Labradoodles generally live for years on average. Featured Mini Labradoodle Article. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near New South Memphis Tennessee and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted. These puppies are very dark chocolate. They have been raised with small children and other dogs. These puppies will be medium in size, lbs. They will be UTD on Vaccines, de wormings, bordatella, and will be microchipped. Our puppies are socialized daily with small children and other dogs in our home. They will also be crate trained. Contact me for more information. Their puppies will be small mediums lbs. The lowest generation we are now breeding are F3 Labradoodles. We breed American and Australian Multigenerational Labradoodle puppies. In order to keep our lines clean no back breeding or line breeding when breeding the higher generation Labradoodle puppies, ie; 4th, 5th and higher, it is our choice to go back to the original infusion of the 2nd generation or higher Cock-a-Poo as well as The poodle. Our minature Labradoodles are bred down naturally starting with the Standard Poodle and English Stature Labrador Retriever within our own program…. Our Labradoodle puppies are raised in our home with lots of daily TLC. T-Touch stimulation socialization. Many of our puppies placed go on to train as therapy dogs. We also have quite a few Certified Service Dogs. We travel back and forth between Sunny South Florida and South Carolina with all our Labradoodle puppy litters once vaccinated. As well as any other states necessary. No destination is too far to insure the safety of our Labradoodle puppies. Hopefully you will find our website informative and if you have further questions do not hesitate in contacting us any time. My cell phone is the easiest way to reach me. Marlene Sapp.

Weaning GSD puppies usually begins around 3 - 4 weeks of age. Discover the online program that more than 57, dog owners have used to rapidly transform their dog into a well-behaved, obedient furry friend. A well thought out weaning plan will definitely help this process produce healthy and food independent puppies. However, if the litter is unusually large, you may wish to start weaning puppies a little earlier than normal in order to ensure that the bitch is not overly fatigued from feeding all her puppies. You want to begin weaning GSD puppies at the appropriate time but don't start too early. Easy indicators to watch for are when the pups begin showing an avid interest in the mother's food and when the mother starts showing an aversion to feeding the German Shepherd puppies, or stops feeding them for as long or as often as she did in the beginning. Usually this happens naturally at around weeks of age those puppy teeth are sharp - I don't blame her. If your bitch shows no interest in starting to wean her puppies on her own especially if she is a first time mom or an overly protective mom , help her begin the weaning process around this time. Weaning GSD puppies is a natural process that is necessary for both the mom and the puppies in future development. The process I will outline below assumes that you are not hand feeding an orphaned puppy as this is an entirely different undertaking in itself and that you are weaning a healthy litter of German Shepherd puppies, or another larger breed puppy - 1 or more in a litter. Weaning puppy food formulas vary from breeder to breeder but I will offer you here the formula I use whenever weaning my own German Shepherd puppies - a formula that has worked well for me and my puppies for several years now and has resulted in many healthy, happy German Shepherds puppies, and then later, GSD adults. It works in stages as I don't feed my babies the same thing the entire weaning process. Weaning Alsatian puppies occurs over a series of a few weeks from mothers milk to a porridge like food, and eventually to a solid, and dry food in my weaning plan. Stage 1. Here I use a mixture of vanilla or unflavored plain yogurt, warmed lightly puppies will not eat cold food at this time , with just a little bit of good quality puppy food thrown in. This must be mixed up well and mashed up enough so that all the solid puppy food is mixed in well. Remember, there should be no lumps in the mixture to make this as easy as possible for the puppies to lap up - make the consistency as close to a thin milk shake as you can. Remember also to keep it luke warm, but not too hot. Warm water may need to be added to achieve just the right consistency for lapping up by the puppies. A flat dish such as a pie pan or one of the "flying saucer" shaped puppy dishes is a good choice to place the food in so that all the puppies have an equal chance to get at the food. Since the puppies are used to suckling warm milk from their mother you may need to encourage each puppy individually to take this new food by placing some on the end of your finger and then allowing them to lick or suck it off. If the puppies resist this new food, and many may, just keep on trying. You may have to do this several times before the puppy gets the idea that this is food. Soon they will associate the smell of the food with eating and eat it with no help from you. Start cutting back on the mom's food just a bit as well during this time to help her milk start drying up. By the way, expect a mess. Once the weaning German Shepherd puppies are established on the porridge mixture, and are eating it readily, you can gradually swap them over to Step 2. Step Two. This food is simply fantastic and I also use it with my adults GSD's - especially in training. They simply love it. You can find it at Kroger, Publix, Petsmart and Petco. Mix this well and keep the mixture as creamy and slightly lumpy as possible in the beginning. As the puppies mature you can increase the amount of lumps in the food a bit with each 2nd step meal as long as the weaning GSD puppies can eat it easily and have no problems swallowing the new food. Remember you are working the weaning GSD puppies toward eating a meal of solid foods. This stage lasts about a week. Step three. I still give Bil-Jac for a while as well to give the weaning GSD puppies the best start possible however I eventually phase that out as well and work towards feeding the puppies a commercially available dry food only. This is my final goal in weaning GSD puppies - to get those German Shepherd puppies to happily eat dry puppy food only on a daily basis. As the German Shepherd puppies consume more and more solid foods, and as long as they are healthy, you should gradually increase the periods that your bitch spends away from her pups, so that by the time they are about 6 - 7 weeks of age she may be moved away from them completely. Remember that, during this weaning period, your bitch's intake of food should have been gradually reduced while the weaning GSD puppies new food intake has been increased to help her milk supply dry up gradually over time. Once your bitch is completely away from her GSD puppies, adding some chopped fresh parsley to your bitch's food may help to reduce the risk of mastitis if she is still producing milk. However if her milk production is excessive, and her mammary glands become red, hot or inflamed, do not hesitate to seek immediate veterinary treatment, as mastitis can build up very quickly and should be taken care of immediately and is considered a medical emergency. Please use the suggested feeding quantities on the bagged foods as a guideline only. The required amounts will vary with the age of the weaning GSD puppies, the individual breed and level of activity of each puppy. Also, ensure that a plentiful supply of fresh, clean water is available at all times to your weaning puppies and adult dogs as well. You want this transition from mothers milk to solid foods to be as stress free as possible for both the mother and puppies and a well thought out weaning plan will definitely help this process produce healthy and food independent German Shepherd Dog puppies. Bernard coming in through the cat door. Time Zones puppy feeding schedule and recomendation Prior to weaning our German shepherd puppies, they would have obtain most of their nutritional needs from their mother's milk. By the time our puppies are ready to move into their new home, they will be fully weaned on to solid foods. The puppy is then entirely dependent on his new owner, to provide a fully balanced diet that will meet all of his nutritional requirements. All puppies thrive on the same basic nutrients as adult dogs, but due to their rapid growth rate, these nutrients are needed in proportionately larger quantities. Similar to human babies, puppies have small stomachs, so they need to be fed little portions but often. German shepherd puppies grow very rapidly in the early stages of their development. A German shepherd dog will reach about half their adult weight by five or six months of age. However, there is a wide variation in adult body weight between different breeds, and dogs mature at different rates, since this article is focus on the German shepherd puppy, we will focus at that. German shepherd puppies, in particular, which are most affected by the feeding regimen - as they are growing rapidly, these puppies are prone to disturbances in their skeletal development. It is unwise to overfeed such dogs at this stage in an attempt to obtain the maximum possible rate of growth. A puppy needs between two and four times as much energy as an adult of the same size - growing is an energetic business! They must have more protein than adults - this must contain all the right building blocks of the protein amino acids for growth, and they need just the right amount of minerals for healthy bones and teeth. Puppies therefore have to eat large amounts of food in relation to their body weight, but their stomachs have only a small capacity. To compensate for this, a puppy needs to be fed several small meals a day. It also helps if his diet is designed to meet a number of useful criteria: the food should be concentrated to ensure an adequate intake of nutrients before his stomach is full; The food should be easily digested to maximize its nutritive value; the diet must be balanced to provide the right amount of nutrients to meet the puppy's particular needs; and it should also be tasty so that he will eat it. Devising an acceptable nutritionally balanced diet for growth is thus a very complex exercise. Fortunately, feeding your puppy need not be as complicated as it sounds. Diets, which are specially formulated for growth, take all the guesswork out of rearing a healthy puppy and provide a balanced and concentrated diet, which he will enjoy and thrive. For a normal, healthy German shepherd puppy there is no need to use supplements. In some ways this could be harmful. If you do decide to use a supplement please consult your veterinarian. The feeding schedule of your puppy will depend greatly on his age and individual characteristics, until they are about four months old. Feeding can then be reduced to two times a day until six months of age. You can offer your puppy his daily food allowance in two separate meals. You can feed an adult diet from 14 months of age Since all puppies are individuals, some may need more and some less than the indicated amounts. Your puppy's condition is the best guide of whether you are feeding the correct amount. By recording his weight on a regular basis you will be able to check his growing at a healthy rate, appropriate to his breed. You can then make adjustments to avoid him becoming under - or overweight. Generally, a puppy should be allowed 10 to 15 minutes to eat at each mealtime. After then discard any uneaten food. Your puppy should have his own feeding and water bowls and should be kept clean, separate from the family's dishes. Provide fresh water daily If you notice that your puppy is excessively thirsty and often, you should consult your veterinarian. Note: When puppies come from a kennel environment "outside living", to a family house, most often they will show signs of panting and thirst. This is normal because they will be hot with-in. In few days they should adjust in being indoors. The "puppy" feeding schedule is a guideline for our German shepherd puppies. A puppy should be kept lean during 4 to 8 months of age rapid growth phase , BUT they should not appear thin. You should be able to feel the rib cage and the back bone, but not see them. Looking down on the dog, there should be a slight indentation between the end of the rib cage and the hip bones. If you have questions or comments that you would like to share, please EMAIL US Please do not use our website to attempt to diagnose or treat your pet. The consultation with your veterinarian is the best source of health advice for your individual pet. You should not rely, on the veterinary advice or any other information provided on this site for the diagnosis or treatment of any specific condition. You should always consult your own veterinarian for specific advice concerning the medical condition or general treatment of your pet. If they cling to a nipple, suck enthusiastically and fall asleep, fed up and satisfied, we can be sure that the bitch gives them a maximum level of nutrition. On the other hand, if they move frantically from one nipple to another, sucking and searching, and their stomachs are not filled, this will indicate that the dog does not provide enough milk for their growth and well-being. Often, when a dog has a small litter of one or two puppies, her milk will begin to disappear much sooner than if she had a large litter to feed. Also, if the mother has been covered too often without enjoying a break, her milk may be lacking earlier than it should. If we have initiated a supplementary feeding regime at the right time, this attitude on the part of the bitch will rarely occur. Starting the weaning process To start the weaning process we must use any of the preparations suggested in the previous chapter for orphaned puppies. We pour part of this liquid mixture into a shallow pan after heating it to body temperature and use only enough of the milk mixture to cover the bottom of the pan. Release the GSD head immediately,let him lick with his lips and he will like the taste of the liquid in them. Speak gently and in a tone of encouragement each time we repeat the process. Sometimes, there will be a puppy that will start to lick the milk from the pan after the first contact, other times it will be necessary to repeat the operation until the desired result is achieved. Repeat the process with each puppy until all have begun to lick on their own initiative, should emphasize that although it will be necessary to keep the pan at the level of the chin during the first times that they are given food in this way, the pan can be deposited on the floor as soon as they acquire practice in eating, or licking, inside it. Of course they will pile up and go inside the pot, staining and staining their littermates with their contents, but they will also become more expert in the process of eating in a container, which, after all, is the ultimate goal pursued. We will administer the mixture twice a day during the first two and, at the end of this period, we will have that the act of eating in a saucepan will have become a conditioned routine. Adding soild to your puppies diet Now is the time to add some fat and solid matter to your diet but, considering that they still cannot chew, any matter of this type that is added should be shredded into very small pieces to form a mixture of creamy consistency when administer with food. Puppies grow better when they follow diets composed of milk, meat, fat and cereals. Growth is achieved mainly through proteins, but these differ, which is why puppies fed diets based on plant proteins do not grow or develop as well as those that receive animal proteins. Vitamins E and K are essential for the welfare of the puppy and must be present in adequate amounts in the diet. Remember also that 70 percent of the energy of the puppies comes from the ingestion of fats, so this food element must be added generously to the ration. In experiments carried out, puppies given diets lacking fat have developed symptoms of deficiency characterized by anemia, weight loss, dull hair, reduced vitality and, finally, death. Fat, however, can not by itself cure the advanced manifestation of this condition, Fat also acts as a vehicle for vitamins A, D, K and E and, in addition, not only slows down the digestion and makes the animal get as much nutrition as possible from its food but helps in many other ways to maintain the puppy, or the dog fully developed, healthy and vigorous. For our puppy to enjoy all the virtues present in fat, it is necessary to incorporate it in 20 or 30 percent to your diet. Practically every breeder with which we stumble has its own diet for weaning and the subsequent phase, but the basic element necessary in any of them is the balance, and a properly balanced food must be that which results in growth, health and vitality. Puppies exist in the market, excellent commercial foods in the form of grain, to which it is only necessary to add milk and fat. The author uses a mixture of ground oats and wheat as a staple cereal. To this, while it is cooked, add a cup of corn flour reinforced with vitamins, dried and powdered eggs, melted fat beef, pork, butter, chicken, Crisco, etc. After this mixture has been cooked and cooled, a small amount of flour with vitamins and minerals is added to it, thoroughly stirred and the resulting dough is distributed in cans of appropriate size and stored in the refrigerator. To have it ready for immediate use, place the necessary amount in the saucepan of the food, add raw meat and properly chopped fat heart, tongue, intestine and a small amount of ox liver to increase the volume administered. This mixture of milk and water is preheated and, when added to the solids, all this reaches the appropriate temperature. After proceeding to the mixture, the food has the consistency of a very thick cream, which must be gradually converted into something more dense and viscous, similar to a stew, until the puppies arrive at 4 weeks. When the bait is 5 weeks old, a food for puppies based on finely ground grain is progressively introduced into the basic diet. We must be very careful, however, not to exaggerate the administration of any supplementary dietary oil because we can provoke exactly the kind in appearance of bone problem rickets that we try to avoid with its use. Two portions of the basic diet and two of warm milk reinforced with a little fat should be administered every day. When the puppy is fully weaned, three basic and two milk rations should be administered, and it should be noted that it is only necessary to administer three meals a day during the period between 3 and 6 months. During all the time that we are busy with weaning and feeding the puppies we must not forget that there are other tasks that also need to be carried out. Your nails should be kept short, using manicure scissors so that they do not scratch the eyes of your littermates during their games. Their eyes will open when they have a week to 12 days according to the ovulation period of the dog and will be blue until they later change to their true chestnut color. If they are infested with worms, we will have to fight them immediately, and if as a consequence they have become puny, we should not try to grow them without first releasing them from the parasites. After the worms have been eliminated, the pups will quickly recover a normal level of health and growth. Currently there is a new serum against distemper serum against human smallpox that can be given to puppies at a very young age, even when they are still being breastfed. This new vaccine is effective until the puppy has passed all the important phases of its early growth and, when it is approximately six months old, the normal immunization vaccine against distemper can be administered. Incidentally we have that the worms that most puppies suffer from are round type currents. To combat them we have Piperazine, which is less toxic than most earthworm medicines and offers the advantage that the puppy can be fed normally, so it can be recommended for roundworms, whose larvae in the bloodstream of The mother often crosses the placenta to infect the puppy before birth. Most people worry about whether their puppy gains enough weight. One way to determine it is by observing its general state, its complexion and its vitality. Another way is by weighing them and keeping notes of the various increases. From six months of age until full development, an average and satisfactory weight gain per week, for a healthy and fast-growing puppy of German shepherd dog, is about 1, to 1, kilos. Remember, also, to make known to our puppy, at an early age, water as a drink. At first they do not seem to see it or know what it is, but they soon they learn to lick it, just as they do with milk and other foods mixed with it, and in this regard it is worth bearing in mind that it is a valuable and mineral-rich complement to your diet See more.