labradoodle puppies dallas craigslist

Bulldog Spotlight Gordon James I joined rescue because my family became overwhelmed with five kids and life, plain and simply. I decided I was ready to go because we were in an apartment and every day, it was getting smaller and smaller and smaller. My family loved me, but sometimes, love is not enough because I can hardly breathe. We are dedicated to saving and re-homing Bulldogs so they can have the healthy, happy lives they truly deserve. The group has been dedicated to the breed since , as a component of Lone Star Bulldog Club. Lone Star Bulldog Club Rescue accepts Bulldogs from owners who can no longer keep them, as well as retrieves Bulldogs from shelters and other undesirable situations. Each Bulldog in the program is lovingly cared for in a foster home until the perfect forever family for that specific dog is found. Every Bulldog is different: personality, temperament, energy, comfort with kids and other animals, medical needs and more. We take all these factors into consideration when making a forever-home match. Adoption is a coordinated process between the coordinators, fosters and applicant. We work together with our knowledge of the dog to find the best home. When you apply, you might have a particular dog in mind. But please understand, that dog may already be in the process of being adopted by an approved family who has been waiting weeks to be matched with the right dog. But they would prefer to be the only thing with fur in their home. They still make a wonderful companion and deserve a loving home. For your convenience, they have been designated as Forever Single on our website. If you plan on only having one dog, we hope you will consider one of these. Since most of our volunteers live in the North Texas area, it is easier on us and the applying family if they live in this area. Because of this, our out-of-state adoptions are incredibly rare and only in neighboring states. If you are ready to submit your adoption application, please complete the Adopt A Bulldog Application. A volunteer will then review your application. This process can take some time, and not every home is a suitable home for a Bulldog, so please be patient. You are not buying a dog. My name is Monty and I am famous! Yesterday, my photo was all over social media and friends were begging someone to save me. The shelter said I had to be out by …. Vocality level 1 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. He is willing to please, although he retains a stubborn streak. He is very good with children. Most are moderately friendly toward strangers. Although some can be aggressive with strange dogs, the breed is quite good with other pets. Upkeep The Bulldog appreciates a daily outing but cannot tolerate hot humid weather, which can be deadly. He should not be expected to jog or walk great distances, or to jump from any heights. Most Bulldogs cannot swim. Most Bulldogs wheeze and snore, and some drool. Coat care is minimal, but facial wrinkles and any folds around the tail should be cleaned daily. Special precautions must be taken when anesthetizing a Bulldog. Caesarean deliveries are commonly needed. Hip radiographs show most Bulldogs to be dysplastic but few show overt symptoms. History With the most distinctive mug in dogdom, the Bulldog has an equally distinctive history. Some Bulldogs were also set against bears for bear baiting, purely for entertainment. In , bull baiting was outlawed, and a new phase began for the Bulldog. By all rights, the breed should have become extinct, except that it had gained so many ardent admirers that they set out to rescue the Bulldog by selecting against ferocity while still maintaining—and often accentuating—its distinctive physical characteristics. Its tough steadfast persona led it to be identified as a national symbol of England. Its amiable clownish personality belies its appearance, and the Bulldog is a popular pet. Related Content.

French Bulldog puppies are one of the most charming and endearing breeds, and understanding their growth and development is essential for providing the best care for them. To help you on your journey, we will be discussing the weight of 8-week-old French Bulldog puppies, which can vary depending on genetics, diet and exercise. Definition of a French Bulldog Puppy French Bulldogs are a breed of companion dogs that are descended from Bulldog ancestors in England. They have been bred to be affectionate, loyal, and playful. They have large ears and come in a variety of colors. French Bulldogs have a stocky body shape with a flat face and shorter legs than other breeds. The exact weight of your puppy will depend on a number of factors such as genetics, diet, and exercise. A balanced diet of high-quality food will also help your puppy maintain an ideal weight. Regular exercise is important to help keep your puppy healthy and fit. Interesting Facts About French Bulldog Puppies French Bulldog puppies are absolutely adorable, and they come with lots of interesting facts. For starters, they are small but heavy, and they have a unique, recognizable look. They are loyal and affectionate, and they love to be part of the family. Frenchies are also prone to certain health issues, so you should do your research and make sure you are well-acquainted with the breed before making a commitment. The Weight of 8-Week-Old French Bulldog Puppies Your 8-week-old frenchie pup is sure to bring a lot of joy and excitement into your life. One of the first things to consider when welcoming this little bundle of joy is how much they should weigh. The average weight of an 8-week-old French Bulldog puppy is between 10 to 16 ounces. The weight range can be from 4 to 24 ounces, and this will depend on various factors such as genetics, diet and exercise. A healthy pup should have a full, rounded belly, a soft, supple coat and bright, clear eyes. If your frenchie pup is underweight, you might need to adjust their food intake. If they are overweight, you may need to increase the amount of exercise and activity they do. Average Weight When it comes to the weight of eight-week-old French Bulldog puppies, the average weight is between ounces. Diet and exercise are important factors to consider. With the right balance, you can help your puppy reach their full potential in terms of weight. The average weight is usually between 4 and 24 ounces, but the exact weight can range quite a bit. Some Frenchies can weigh as little as 3 ounces or as much as 28 ounces. This means that you could have two puppies that are the same age and of the same breed, but could have a significant difference in their weight. One of the main factors that affects the weight of your Frenchie is genetics. This will give you a better indication of the size your puppy might be when it grows up. Make sure that your pup is getting the right amount of food and nutrition, as well as plenty of exercise and playtime. This will help ensure that your pup is healthy and developing properly. Genetics plays a role in the size of the pup at birth and determines the potential adult weight of the pup. A pup with heavier genetics is likely to weigh more than a pup with lighter genetics. Uncovering the Truth Behind the Hunt A proper diet, including a balanced amount of protein, carbohydrates, and fats, is essential for a growing pup. A pup should also get regular exercise to help them grow and develop, and maintain a healthy weight. A pup that is older than 8 weeks will typically weigh more than an 8-week-old pup. When it comes to caring for an 8-week-old French Bulldog puppy, it is important to understand their weight and how it is affected by genetics, diet, exercise, and age. A balanced diet and regular exercise are key to helping the pup reach its full potential. With the right care and attention, an 8-week-old French Bulldog puppy can reach its full potential and be a happy, healthy, and well-adjusted pup. Genetics Genetics play an important role in determining the weight of an 8-week-old French Bulldog puppy. The breed is predisposed to a particular weight range and puppies whose parents are heavier or lighter than average can often end up at the extremes of this range. Consulting with a veterinarian or a local French Bulldog club can also be helpful in finding the right puppy for you. You should also ensure that your puppy gets regular exercise and plenty of rest to ensure their long-term health. With the proper care, your puppy will be able to reach a healthy weight and stay that way. Diet Feeding your 8-week-old Frenchie puppy with the right food is key to ensure proper weight gain. You should be aware that different age groups have different needs. You must choose a high-quality puppy food that is specially formulated to meet the nutritional requirements of growing puppies. French bulldogs, in particular, require a diet that is rich in protein, fat, and carbohydrates. If you are unsure of what to feed your Frenchie, you can always consult with your vet for advice. When feeding your Frenchie puppy, you need to ensure that you are feeding them the right amount. Overfeeding your puppy can lead to obesity, so it is essential that you regulate their food intake. You should always measure out the food according to the instructions on the package. You should also provide your puppy with access to water throughout the day to ensure that they stay hydrated. It is important to remember that weight gain is just one aspect of a healthy diet. You should also provide your puppy with plenty of exercises and mental stimulation. This will ensure that they remain happy and healthy. Taking them on regular walks, playing fetch, and providing toys are all great ways to keep their minds active. Your pup will thank you for it! Exercise Exercising your eight-week-old French Bulldog puppy is a must! As with all puppies, exercise helps their muscles, bones and joints grow more efficiently. Taking them on regular walks and providing them with toys to play with and explore are all important activities to help maintain their physical health. Just like in people, regular exercise helps strengthen their bones, improve circulation, and burn off energy, allowing them to sleep better at night. Conclusion Taking proper care of your 8-week-old French Bulldog puppy should be at the top of your priority list. Diet, and exercise all play a role in the weight of a French Bulldog puppy. The average weight for an 8-week-old pup is around 4 to 24 ounces. When selecting a food for your pup, be sure to choose one that is specifically tailored to their breed. This will help ensure the nutrients the pup needs are present. Understanding the weight of your 8-week-old French Bulldog puppy and the factors that affect it can help you keep your pup healthy and happy. By providing the right diet, exercise, and care, you can ensure that your pup is on the right track and will stay healthy for years to come. Post Views: 1, No products in the basket. However, there is also a lot to learn — and with 8 week old French Bulldog puppies often weighing as little as 2 kilograms, new owners can sometimes be a little overwhelmed. Learning how to properly look after your tiny pup and instilling good habits for you both is key to being able to enjoy life with your adult dog. Bringing your French Bulldog puppy home. If you have children, encourage them to be calm when meeting him, and try to avoid overwhelming him with constant stroking and playing. After a short period of time handling your new puppy, try to leave them alone in their safe space. Feeding your puppy. If you do want to change the brand or type of food your puppy has, try to do this gradually and over the course of a week or so. Typically, this will have higher levels of protein and fats to help them grow. For more information on feeding your adult dog, such as how often and whether wet or dry food is best, visit our page on French Bulldog diet and exercise. Puppy training and socialising. As with all breeds, it is recommended that you give your French Bulldog puppy at least some basic training. The things you will likely want to tackle within the first few days of bringing your puppy home are toilet training and crate training. If you plan for your adult dog to sleep downstairs, then resist the temptation to keep your puppy in bed with you — however cute they may be! Similarly, if your puppy starts going to the toilet on carpet or furniture, then this can be a difficult habit to break. Introduce them to puppy pads from the first day you bring them home, and toilet training should go much more smoothly. Being able to interact with other dogs and people will make life easier for you, and ultimately lead to a happier dog. Puppy classes are obviously a great way to get them used to being around other dogs, while also learning some basic commands. If your friends or families have older, well-behaved dogs then organising a play date can also be a great way for your pup to learn. Find out more about training your French Bulldog. Join Our Newsletter Keep up to date… Get our latest news, products and promotions, enter your email address below Shop. Train your Frenchie here! You should start training your French Bulldog puppy as soon as you get them home. Puppy brains are a lot bigger than we think — they soak up so much good information despite their young age. French Bulldogs can be a rather independent breed of dog. In fact, we sometimes might feel like we need them more than they need us! What age can I start to train my French Bulldog puppy? You can start training your French Bulldog puppy as soon as you get them home. Build positive training experiences with Zigzag! We can start you off with a personalised training programme straight away in the Zigzag puppy training app , in fact, you can even use it before you bring your Frenchie puppy home as we have a pre-puppy section. Before bringing your French Bulldog puppy home, you can also get in touch with our Zigzag puppy experts with any of the many questions you may have! While blingy collars and outfits might be top of the list, there are some more sensible things you need to get your French Bulldog puppy that will help with your training. Here are my top picks for getting prepared for training your Frenchie. My favourite all-rounder is the Rapid Rewards treat pouch , it comes in many colours and looks stylish when on. The Mikki treat pouch is also good and a bit cheaper. You can go to town and choose pretty colours and designs for Frenchies! A lead — Around 2m is a good length for a lead. A training lead is a good idea as you can change the lengths of them to suit. A comfortable mat or a piece of non-slip vet bed. Treats The more smelly, the better. Have a look at the best puppy treats here. Chews and chew toys — lots of them! Our faves for Frenchies are West Paw Toppl and hollow buffalo horns for stuffing food into, and cow ears and pizzles for edible chews. Two identical toys : Excellent for swaps — your French Bulldog puppy will be super playful and enjoy the retrieving games in the Zigzag app. Originally, French Bulldogs were bred from English Bulldogs, who had a shady past as bull-baiting dogs. People enjoyed their cheerful nature and kept them as companion dogs after these awful blood sports were prohibited. When the need for these workers declined in England, their skills were still required in France, so the workers relocated, bringing their dogs with them. Relocate your training to Zigzag! When they arrived in France, they were adored by shopkeepers, butchers, and, most infamously, Les Belles de Nuit — the ladies of the night! What does this have to do with how I train my French Bulldog? Knowing the characteristics of the breed will help you better train your Frenchie puppy and understand why they behave the way they do. Here are a few things to keep in mind: Frenchies are incredibly loving and enjoy being in the spotlight. They can have a lot of energy possibly even more than a lot of energy and enjoy an active home life. Lack of stimulation WILL foster self-employment; provide them with items to rip up and pull apart to keep them out of trouble. By the way, if you leave them to it, they WILL go into your recycling and have a field day. Frenchies often think they are big dogs, thus they often do well playing with dogs larger than them. They look dashing in them too! Pin64 71 Shares When we first brought Claude home, we had no idea on how much food we should be giving him. We spoke to our vet, and this is what he told us about how much you should feed a French bulldog puppy. A French bulldog puppy should be fed 3 times a day whilst there are still 2 to 6 months old. Once the French bulldog puppy reaches 6 months, you can reduce the feeding schedule down to 2 meals a day. But now having been a French bulldog owner for 3 years, I can now look back and give you some more detail on exactly what our French bulldog puppy feeding schedule was like and how it worked for us and him. French bulldog puppy feeding chart Below you can see a French bulldog puppy feeding guide I put together. It contains some rough guidance on how you should schedule and plan his feeds, and what other factors you might need to take into account. Please do print it out and put on your fridge. How many cups of food should I feed my French Bulldog? Before you look at the French Bulldog feeding chart below, you might want the quick answer to how many cups of food to feed your French Bulldog. As a general rule of thumb, you should feed a French Bulldog puppy aged 8 to 12 weeks around 1 and a half cups of food a day, in 3 separate meals. As your Frenchie gets older, the number of cups of food you should feed them will change. You can see the cup amounts and frequencies in the French Bulldog feeding chart graphic below. This French bulldog puppy feeding chart tells you how much you should feed them Source: Canin The French bulldog puppy feeding chart shown above is taken from the Royal Canin dog food range. This is exactly what we fed Claude as he was growing up. They range a specific French bulldog puppy food, and on the packaging you will see a version of the chart above, including how best to feed your own puppy. Handy Hint: To stop your Frenchie from bloating and possibly choking you should use a suitable feeding bowl. Here are the best French Bulldog food bowls that vets recommend. When you take your puppy to his new home, he should already be used to eating puppy food. As I mentioned earlier, you should be feeding your French bulldog puppy 3 times a day. They need that regularity as they are growing and burning a lot of calories. You know how energetic they are! How much you feed them at each mealtime will typically be half a cup of their dry puppy food. Across the day, that will equate 1. However, their weight and health will then determine how much you feed them as they get older. Calories matter, but are hard to count As French bulldogs get older, you should try to feed them according to their weight. For every pound, they should be fed between 25 and 30 calories. However, for the rest of this French bulldog puppy feeding guide, I am just going to talk in cups. Puppy weight How can weigh your puppy at the vets or, and this is can be a more interesting and fun way if your puppy already knows how to sit, have them sit on a scale at home. It will not be as accurate as a scale at the vet, but it could be a cheap and fun experience for you and your pet. Because of this, your puppy may be a little stubborn about eating dry and wet food if they were only just recently weaned. Here is where the math gets a little more detailed, but not too complicated. When they are between 8 to 12 weeks old, the puppy should be fed about 1. This food should be high in calories since they need extra nutrients that they are no longer getting from their mother. This kind of follows the main rule when it comes to spreading out the meals to 3 times a day. But for younger pups, many owners will split the 1. Because feeding them 0. Once they are between 6 and 9 months old, they should be used to their eating routine. That is when the main rule is applied because by then, the pup will be maturing into its adult size and should weigh between 20 and 25 pounds. What about older dogs? Also, if you are wondering how much they should be fed once they start hitting their senior years, they should be fed a little less as long only if they are not as active. Make sure you still stretch out the meals to 3 to 4 times like when they were puppies because it is not uncommon for their stomachs to weaken with old age. Overweight or underweight? French bulldog puppies usually weight between 8. Once they reach 6 to 9 months, they are just at or are closer to reaching their adult weight, .If the puppy is underweight, then add very small increments to each meal every day until they are no longer underweight. It is important to not add too much food because of the possibility of them getting a twisted stomach. If the puppy is overweight, you can either slightly reduce the size of their meal until they lose weight, or you can give them more exercise. Many people prefer the later since it helps the pup to get stronger and adds more bonding time. The same methods apply to grown French bulldogs as well. Handy Hint: Read this guide which explains how to check if you have a fat French Bulldog who needs to lose weight, with tips on how to get the pounds down. If the dog does not appear to be gaining weight when they are underweight or vice versa if they are overweight, you might want to take them to the vet since it could be a sign that something is affecting their health. Health conditions Since not every animal is the same, ask your vet the next time your pup has a check-up what a French bulldog of their size and age should weigh. Health factors like diabetes yes, dogs can have diabetes , can make your pup need a more strict diet or feeding routine. Here are some different diets and feeding routines. Raw food vs. Many dog lovers say that there are too many preservatives, fillers, wheat, corn, and protein in dry and wet food. While the raw food diet can be more natural, especially if it is organic, you also have to make sure your pup would be getting more foods with vitamins and minerals mixed in with the raw food that your pup would need. Raw food diets can be more expensive, require more storage room for the meats and veggies, and take longer to prepare. However, you would be personally ensuring that your little French bulldog pup is getting their full daily nutrition without harmful by-products and additives. Is there a good dry food diet? Possibly the biggest questions out of all of them: is there any good dry dog food out there and how do I find them? The answer is yes, there can be some healthy dry dog food products, but it takes some time to look for. The key is to look for dog food that does not contain any preservatives, fillers, wheat, corn, and too much protein. Fillers basically do not provide any nutritional value and can even harm your dog since most of the ingredients they use as fillers are common allergies for dogs that can cause skin conditions, bowel issues, and more. Wheat and corn are included since they are also a popular allergen for dogs. Too much protein is even more dangerous for them since it can put more pressure on the organs, throw off nutritional balance, increase the likelihood of diabetes, and can harm dogs that already have diabetes. To see the safe and dangerous fruits list, click here. Another two meat choices would be duck and turkey, but these are a little less common to find, especially if you are looking for a French bulldog specific dog food. Your dog eats his food too quickly Another common problem is how do you control how fast your French bulldog puppy eats. French bulldogs love to eat their food and eat it fast, which is one of the primary causes of GDV. Frenchies will stop eating for a number of reasons, some more serious that others. Conclusion So there you have it, your guide to how much you should feed your French bulldog puppy. Everything in this feeding schedule and the French bulldog feeding chart you see is based on personal experience. Once in the morning, and once in the early evening. Keep a regular feeding routine, and your Frenchies will stay as healthy as ours has! Pin1 1 Shares Frenchie puppies are adorable and it would be very tempting to take one home as soon as you can. However, you need to be aware that there are certain ages at which they cannot leave their mother for both health and legal reasons. If you want to know what the best age to get a Frenchie puppy is, read below for a quick primer on the important factors regarding age. What is the best age to get a French Bulldog puppy? The best age you can get a French Bulldog puppy from is once they have reached 8 weeks of age. Any time past this is the best age to take them away from their mothers as they will no longer be in the weaning stage. We got Claude after he had turned 8 weeks old or two months. I think any time past this date is the best age, and I am going to explain why and what you need to know if considering getting a French Bulldog yourselves. The bottom line is this; do not buy a French Bulldog before the age of 8 weeks old. Frenchies are a massive bundle of fun at any age, the 2 month or 8-week mark is the perfect age range to bring a Frenchie puppy home. Aside from the weaning issue, there are lots of reasons why too, some of which I will go into below. Why 8 weeks is the best age to get a French Bulldog puppy 1. This crucial moment of their life will determine almost everything about their future. During this period, French Bulldog puppies are raised by their mother and learn the core basics about being a dog. This is what Claude looked like when we first got him. He was just over 8 weeks old and was ready to leave his mother. French Bulldog puppies are properly nursed and naturally weaned up until 8 weeks of age. They are fed with the right kind of milk for puppies of their age and they receive the proper parental care and attention. Frenchies are renowned for having a whole range of health problems see the list of issues here and many of these can be picked up in the 2 month period after they have been born. French Bulldog puppies that live with an expert breeder up until 8 weeks should get the proper medical attention and a health maternal environment that is favourable to their development. By taking home a younger pup at 8 weeks and over, you are almost starting with a blank slate and in theory should be able to train them easier. They are a stubborn breed, but getting the training initiated from the age of 8 weeks will mean you should get far better results. Younger dogs will adapt better as will other pets When we brought Claude home for the first time, we were very nervous about how he was going to adapt to being away from his mother. We were also worried about how our cat would react to having a strange dog in the house. However, because Claude was 8 weeks old, he was still smaller than our cat. I think this made the introduction and adapting so much easier. I think if we have brought a 6-month-old puppy home, it would have scared our cat and made things a lot harder for us. Our cat thought she was in charge, and in fact, she still does to this day and they get along just fine. I have put together some tips on how to introduce Frenchies to cats which you might find useful. You can see a video below from when my young son met Claude on his first day coming home to our house. Claude was 8 or 9 weeks old at this point. The fun is just endless. As I mentioned earlier, it is hard work as the puppy will poop and pee on the floor, so you have a lot of hard work ahead of you. However, at this age they are full of excitement, are inquisitive, adventurous, and want to play constantly. You will never get that time back again unless of course you get another puppy and we are so happy that we were able to share these formative weeks and months with Claude. You can start socialising your Frenchie early Puppies who have not been socialised properly with other dog and people can be a handful. The sooner you can start the socialisation process the better it will be easier if you have two French Bulldogs instead of one. We took Claude to puppy socialisation classes at our local vets. The idea here is to get lots of young puppies in a room with some older dogs so they can get used to each other. Here you can see a Frenchie puppy at 20 weeks old. It also helps that we our son was around 4 years old at the time, so Claude was also able to get used to the way young children can approach dogs. Why you should not get a Frenchie before 8 weeks of age Only ignorant people and breeders would let a French Bulldog puppy leave their mother before 8 weeks of age. They are very difficult and expensive to breed Breeding your own Frenchies is a difficult and expensive process. If you are not an experienced or professional breeder, the chances of you doing it right are very low. It will be a lot easier than trying to breed them yourselves. You will have a lot of sleepless nights If you bring a French Bulldog puppy home before they have been weaned from the mother, you are in for a full-time job. You will need to nurse the dog, keep them warm, steadily rub them to stimulate bowel movements, bottle feed them with special puppy milk supplement for up to eight times a day or more — and a whole lot of other necessary and demanding breeding measures. Looking after a Frenchie puppy younger than 8 weeks of age will be so exhausting and could lead to them having health problems. You will visit the vet more often Sickness is a huge risk when you take home a Frenchie before the time is right. What to look for when buying a Frenchie puppy No matter what the age you buy, there are some key things to look out for. The main things are to make sure you see the dog with the mother, to check the background of the breeder, and to check overall health and signs for infections such as flaking skin, bare spots, bruises, lesions, scabs and cuts that are caused by bacteria. Here are some more… Know the age of the puppy before buying. Never buy a puppy without seeing the parents the mother at least. This will help you know that the puppy comes from a healthy background and you can find out more about the circumstances surrounding the dog. Find out if the parents of the puppy have been health tested. Make sure that the puppy has had the first vaccinations as these should be done by a vet before they leave the mother. Only buy puppies from reputable breeders. Ask about any potential genetic health and behavioural problems of the parents before buying. For more details on what to look out for and the warning signs to be aware of, read this guide on what you need to know before you buy. Clean their ears regularly with a damp, warm cloth. Maintain and trim their nails regularly. Prevent infections by always cleaning and drying the wrinkles between their skin folds. Brush their coat once or twice every week to help keep the coat healthy and clean. Feeding advice The most important aspect is how to feed the puppy. Related questions on age And finally, here are some answers to some common questions people also ask when researching what the best age to get a French Bulldog puppy is. What is the best age to neuter a French Bulldog? Recommendations on this will vary, but your vet will typically say that a Frenchie can be neutered between the ages of 4 and 9 months. We waited until Claude was 6 months for this short and simple procedure. He had no recovery time, just a few stitches, and was his normal self within a few hours. There is some opinion that this can lead to longer-term health benefits and can even stop negative behavioural problems including aggression. I can only speak from experience when I say that we noticed no differences with our own French Bulldog. He was just as mad and fun after he was neutered. What age do French Bulldogs come into season? The age French Bulldogs are said to come into season will vary from 6 to 8 months old. Once they have come into season, they will typically come into heat a couple of times a year. What age to French Bulldogs stop teething? Just like humans, dogs will also teeth and start to lose their milk teeth as they grow older. French Bulldogs tend to stop teething once they read 7 to 8 months of age. Teething can start at around 4 months old. You can read all you need to know about the teething stages and what to expect in this teething timeline. I remember us finding small teeth on the carpet in our lounge when Claude starting teething. I wish I had kept them now! Conclusion To conclude, the best age to get a French Bulldog puppy is once they reach the age of 8 weeks of age. In the first week we had Claude, he would cry and whine at night which I can only put down to being scared and wondering where his mum and siblings were. The bottom line is this; having an adorably cute Frenchie puppy as a new family member is really exciting… but very manic at the same time. In fact, I would almost compare it to having a baby. You need to keep a constant eye on them, they mess everywhere, and need constant attention. You might also like… This month I published a new blog post which talks about the pros and cons to male versus female French Bulldogs. You might want to read that before deciding what gender puppy you will be getting.

The typical price for Shih Tzu puppies for sale in Conroe, TX may vary based on the breeder and individual puppy. Premier Pups is committed to providing four-legged dog lovers with happy, healthy Yorkshire Terrier puppies for sale near Conroe, Texas. We have 8 sweet boys and one girl. Dogs in Conroe Texas - Puppies and dogs for sale and adoption. Puppies For Sale in Conroe .Seller theark.Browse thru our ID Verified puppy for sale listings to find your perfect puppy in your area. Nothing written about me yet. Premier Pups has got you covered. We have a stunning litter of kennel club puppies 3 girls 2 boys All puppies will come. At Premier, our Pomeranian puppies come with a passion for cuddles, love, and a year health guarantee. All our puppies are; Akc registered Up to date on all shots Vet checked Dewormed Potty and crate trained Nationwide shipping … more. Find your puppy for sale in Conroe, TX Puppies. A year health guarantee is in place to back up. Beautiful fawn female ready to go home in a week! She comes with age appropriate shots, dewormed, vet checked and a 2 yr health guarantee! She comes with age appropriate shots, dewormed, vet checked and a 2 yr health guarantee! We are located in Conroe TX but can hand deliver any where fee depends on location. Why buy a puppy for sale if you can adopt and save a life? Look at pictures of puppies in Conroe who need a home. Here, at Premier Pups, we align ourselves with the nation's most reputable and responsible breeders to offer you happy and healthy Shih Tzu puppies for adoption near Conroe. They are very playful and love snuggles. Ultra-petite, the Pomeranian is active, easy to train and enjoys the outdoors, but also loves to curl up on the couch. The typical price for Pembroke Welsh Corgi puppies for sale in Conroe, TX may vary based on the breeder and individual puppy. Search for an Irish Setter puppy or dog. See our available Pomeranian puppies for sale near Conroe, Texas. About Us Our Misson We are a small, professional kennel breeding for health, temperament and beauty since .Shih Tzu Puppies For Sale. Conroe Find Doberman Pinscher puppies for sale Near Conroe, TX With proper activity and socialization, the fearless Doberman is an extremely loyal, vigilant, and intelligent companion. The Shih Tzu is your lap dog. Find your puppy for sale in Conroe, TX. Conroe Find Basset Hound puppies for sale Near Conroe, TX Bassets can be independent and stubborn at times, but this pleasant and easygoing breed is generally peaceful and very friendly with all people and animals. Despite their tiny size, they have the biggest hearts. Dogs in Conroe Texas - Puppies and dogs for sale and adoption New litter of 12 pups born Dec 10, for sale. You're in the right place! Here, at Premier Pups, we work hand in hand with the nation's most reputable breeders to offer small Poodle puppies for adoption in the Conroe, Texas area. Welcome to Southpaw Cavaliers Home to the most loving dogs in the world. Pugs for adoption in the Conroe, Texas area come with a year health guarantee. They will be ready June 2nd! Adopt yours from Premier Pups in the Conroe, Texas area. All About Me! Texas Puppies works with breeders of all kinds of dogs for sale in Texas, including small dog for sale in Texas. The Havapoo and the Havachon are two amazing small dog breeds with big and beautiful personalities. First round of shots, worming, vet check and puppy bag including before puppies go to their new home. Learn more puppies available certified breeders Transportation Location Color Lil Bratz Bassets 29 miles away. View our Available Puppies. American Corgis ckc registered comes with first round of shots 2 rounds of deworming tails docked and dewclaws remove. Save this search and we'll notify you when they are. Basset Hound puppies for sale in Conroe, TX from trusted …. From the classic working dog breeds like Labrador Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Australian Shepherds to designer breeds like the Cavapoo, Puggle, and Goldendoodles, we know the best ethical dog breeders in your area! The highly sought-after 3rd generation pups have a easy care non-shedding hypo allergic fur. Pug Puppies Available wahlrebecca.Ad ID : .We've connected loving homes to reputable breeders since and we want to help you find the puppy your whole family will love. Suzanne Hollingsworth 1 black and white female, 2 red and white husky pups available 1 male 1 female. For out-of-state customers, we have nationwide delivery options tailored to every need. Toy rat terriers will stay around 5 pounds List a Puppy Sign In. Americanlisted has classifieds in Conroe, Texas for dogs and cats. Conroe, Texas Puppies For Sale. New litter of 12 pups born Dec 10, for sale. They adore spending time with their owners and crave a life of games, adventures, and relaxation. If interested please text or call me at anytime thank you Pam You can Google us for reviews. How much do Pomeranian puppies cost in Conroe, TX? The typical price for Pomeranian puppies for sale in Conroe, TX may vary based on the breeder and individual puppy. Each of them has impressive learning skills, a strong passion for games and interactions, and a great deal of affection to spoil their owners with. Pugs are true joy bringers from the moment they are born. They will go fast as the previous litter. Premier Pups is the best place to find French Bulldog puppies in Conroe, Looking for a super-cute companion? Doberman Pinscher puppies for sale in Conroe, TX from trusted breeders. American Corgi texas, conroe. The puppies and their parents go through regular check-ups and health screenings. Yorkshire Terriers for Sale in Conroe, Texas. They are equally loving and kind, and they both love to make new friends on their daily walks. Available for: Local Delivery. Find your Maltese puppy for sale in Conroe, TX. Boston terriers of Conroe, Our sire and dam have a new litter. Partnered with the nation's most trusted and reputable breeders, we aim to deliver the cutest, happiest, and finest Yorkies to our Premier family members. They are AKC registered with beautiful colors. Will have pictures in about 3 weeks. An adorable toy pup, the Shih Tzu is a playful yet gentle breed that is great with children and make for great roommates in homes of all sizes. Contact them and ask why! Pomeranian puppies for sale in Conroe, TX from trusted breeders. We are located. Our Shih Tzus are raised with passion and care by our dedicated and loving staff members. Kennel hounds, dogs and all kinds of cats. We've got you covered. This means the puppy can be registered under your name and shown but cannot be bred. You can contact me at for more info. Here, at Premier Pups, we align ourselves with the nation's most responsible breeders to offer you happy and healthy Pomapoo puppies for adoption. This small family-owned breeder is located in East Texas and specializes in breeding and selling tiny toy, toy, and teacup poodles. Your puppy will come with a year health guarantee, and, if you are located out of state, we will deliver your new fur baby to your door through one of our nationwide delivery options. Find Shih Tzu puppies for sale. Phone: .Pug Puppies for sale near Conroe, TX within 50 miles. The typical price for Doberman Pinscher puppies for sale in Conroe, TX may vary based on the breeder. If you are unable to find your. Pomeranian puppies for sale in Conroe, TX from trusted breeders …. Very tiny black and tan babies. Call for more information and puppy availability. More Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Hi, I'm Ashley. I'd like to tell you my story. I have always loved the breed and when I had my kids I knew I made the right choice. They are great with my kids and always so loving to everyone. When I was pregnant with my third son Grayson, I had a late miscarriage. This was the most devastating thing in my life. At that moment was when I decided to name our kennel Grayson Boxers. I've dedicated my whole life to improving the Boxer breed traits, character, and temperament. I have taken great pride in raising our dogs with love and devotion. You cannot go wrong when you decide that a Boxer is right for you and your family. Please contact me for more info One of my first Boxers Max Moo Moo I have a variety of colors including brindle, fawn and white. I do not breed sealed boxers as they are not part of the breed standard. Please be ready to devote lots of time to raising a puppy before purchasing one. Puppies can be a lot to handle if your not ready. To be added to our Waitlist please send me a txt. Deposits may ONLY be moved to two different litters. After the second litter the deposit will be forfeited. All puppies are out of health tested parents. We do not take credit card or checks for puppies. If you would like to be placed on a waitlist without deposit we cannot insure there will be a puppy available for you. Puppies are placed in order of deposit. Example: 1st deposit gets 1st pick puppy. Please call Ashley for more info on when the next litter will be available.

Watching them fight leaves you confused and bewildered. Here is how you can keep your German Shepherd from aggression towards other dogs and why they might be attacking other dogs in the first place. Why does your German Shepherd attack other dogs? German Shepherd aggression towards other dogs may seem like it comes from out of nowhere. Dog-on-dog aggression is one of the most popular problems that many owners face 1. One of the steps to helping avoid dog attacks by your German Shepherd is to figure out why your dog attacks. Here are the most common motives if your German Shepherd attacked another dog. Lack of Socialization One of the top reasons why a German Shepherd attacks other dogs is poor socialization skills. When German Shepherds are puppies they naturally interact with their littermates throughout the day, allowing them to learn the right social behaviors when in a pack with other dogs. Social play between puppies includes rough play, biting, nipping, and other forms of normal expression. They Display Dominant Behaviors Contrary to popular belief, true dog dominance is quite rare. However, if your German Shepherd is dominant they may try to assert their power over other dogs by being aggressive towards them. Keep in mind that some German Shepherds lack social skills and might not be really dominant. Too Much Excitement Around Other Dogs Another reason dogs attack one another is that one dog may have too much excitement or energy. This means that the dogs are more prone to become overly aroused during initial meet-and-greets or even casual play. When this happens, your German Shepherd may resort to showing aggressive behavior to calm the other dog or protect itself. Such behavior may present as nipping, lunging, growling, or even biting. Territorial Aggression When Other Dogs are Around If your German Shepherd attacked your other dog then your other dog may have gotten too close to a prized possession. Some highly valued possessions that cause your German Shepherd aggression towards other dogs may be: you a favorite dog bed or spot to lie another dog they favor potential mates especially if the other dog is female and in season or toys, such as bones, treat chews and any other prised toys around Your German Shepherd may feel the need to protect these resources and become confrontational or attack your other dog. Unknown Health Concerns Some owners overlook taking their German Shepherd to the vet when their German Shepherd is aggressive towards other dogs, but this should actually be your first step. Especially if your German Shepherd attacks your other dog living with you. If your German Shepherd is usually a sweet, mild-mannered dog, then a vet visit is in order to rule out any underlying medical or health problems. A normally happy-go-lucky GSD that becomes easily provoked or irritated may be experiencing a health issue that you might not notice. This could range from something as small as a torn nail to other major medical complications that require immediate treatment. How do you get your German Shepherd to stop aggression toward other dogs? Preventing dog attacks is a priority to avoid any damage your German Shepherd may cause other dogs or the people around trying to stop the attack. Consider the following to help your German Shepherd with better behaviors around other dogs. Instead, stay focused on signs that your dog is about to become aggressive to other dogs or attack them. German Shepherd Aggression and Attack Warning Signs Do you see any signs on this list of your German Shepherd reacting with aggression towards other dogs? Watch out for signs that your German Shepherd is getting ready to attack another dog. So have a plan of action in mind, such as crossing the street safely to avoid another dog walker or choosing a new route to take your dog for exercise. Give your German Shepherd the chance to choose a good behavior, instead of adding to their stress and causing them to attack unnecessarily. How do you get your German Shepherd to stop their aggression and attacking other dogs? It can be tough to stop dog attacks once they start, but there are plenty of things that you can do to prevent an attack from starting. The following techniques help to prevent your German Shepherd from attacking your other dog. Use rewards to increase positive behaviors around other dogs. Counter conditioning teaches your German Shepherd that it will receive good things when other dogs are around it. You might think that training your Shepherd this way would reinforce bad behavior, but counter-conditioning creates a powerful positive connection with other dogs. This strong association outweighs their bad behavior. Whenever your dog is around other dogs they might show aggression to, offer them small bits of cooked bacon or the Ferrari of training treats… Set aside special treats that you only give your dog when other dogs are nearby so your German Shepherd makes a strong connection between the treat and giving you their attention. Apply desensitization training. Another way to keep your German Shepherd from attacking your other dog is to begin desensitization training. Then, start at a farther distance from other dogs when you try again. Offer your dog a reward when they look at the other dog and look back to you. You can show them the treat or place it in front of their nose and draw the treat back to you to move their attention to you so they focus on you. Start by rewarding your dog for not showing aggression when it sees other dogs, and gradually build up to rewarding your dog for getting closer to other dogs. You must reward your German Shepherd for displaying good behavior before they have a chance to become aggressive or attack another dog. This means you need to avoid asking for large increases in their actions. Ask for competing behaviors. In order to ask for competing behaviors, your German Shepherd must know a handful of basic German Shepherd commands. You can learn a variety of useful cues to give your German Shepherd by starting your GSD obedience training at home. Before your German Shepherd has a chance to become aggressive, have them perform the cue you give. Then, offer their reward. This, in turn, distracts them from the other dog momentarily while also giving them another, more positive, option to perform. Use the right walking tools for more control. Remember that a dog sometimes attacks or acts aggressively when they feel threatened, and they can exert great amounts of power over you. An aggressive or fearful and reactive German Shepherd can pull you down the street, knock you to the ground, or even hurt your wrist, arm, and shoulder. Dogs that are aggressive to other dogs tend to lunge with great force. Use the right equipment to walk your aggressive German Shepherd and regain more control over them, if needed. This includes: Attaching a short lead to them at all times outdoors. A padded handle short dog leash gives you more power when your dog reacts badly by shortening the distance between you and your dog. This gives you greater stability and control. Using a head collar instead of a regular collar. Some owners prefer to use a head halter, or halti, on their dogs. These humane headcollars allow you to guide your dog away from danger more easily by attaching to their heads, but they do require time for your dog to adjust to using them. See the best head collars for your German Shepherd to help them stop pulling. Having more control over a powerful German Shepherd that becomes aggressive is a key step in keeping to a walking routine safely. The right walking tools allow you to walk your dog in more comfort and with more confidence. Never allow yourself to lose control of your dog or they might escape and show aggression towards other dogs, or even attack another dog. Discipline your aggressive German Shepherd in the right way. While your first instinct might be to harshly punish your German Shepherd for showing aggression, this could make matters worse. Avoid getting them more worked up by not using harsh reprimands or physical violence or force. Your job is to help your aggressive German Shepherd not encounter any stressors by anticipating what they react to and avoiding it. Get the right amount and type of exercise. Some German Shepherds that have attacked other dogs are in need of the right amount of exercise in addition to the previous training. Exercise also decreases stress and anxiety and can give your GSD a positive outlet for their energy. Try a few different ideas from this German Shepherd exercise routine to offer your dog the opportunity to try something new. Plus, if your German Shepherd is acting aggressively toward other dogs, you might find yourself neglecting their walks out of anxiety or fear. So, give them exercise in other ways to keep their stress levels low. For these dogs, there are different management techniques. New dogs need to acclimate themselves to one another in neutral territory. This is asking for a fight! Instead, take them on long walks on a leash outside of the home for initial meetings. Spend separate one-on-one time with each dog. This gives them the attention they crave while decreasing any chances of jealousy while the dogs are together. Feed your dogs in separate rooms or in separate crates. This also lets them develop a positive association with their crate. Never leave toys out unsupervised. Keep higher value chew items like bones, rawhides, and antlers put away. Only give them to your dogs when they are physically separate from each other. If one of your dogs guards its toys, figure out which toy it is and eliminate it from your toy selection. Physically pet and praise your dogs equally. Your dog will associate the punishment with the other dog and with you. This breaks down social relationships. One of your dogs could seriously injure the other! Thinking this is just a one-time thing could put your dogs in danger when they attack each other again. This means you use rewards, such as treats, toys, or praise, to encourage your dog to respond and behave the way you want. Not only does training give you a more reliable dog, but it gives your dog a way to help ease their stress and to bond with you in positive ways. Use a scientifically-based dog training program that you can use from the comfort of your home. Your aggressive German Shepherd might also benefit from these scientifically proven German Shepherd enrichment ideas. These activities can not only increase your bond but help your GSD to focus on you more and provide them healthy, safe outlets for their energy. Safety is your number one priority for you and your dogs. Stay patient and positive. Training your German Shepherd to stop acting aggressively toward other dogs is not something that you can fix overnight. It requires consistent training and a plan of action to help avoid future problems. Follow these tips to help you and your German Shepherd avoid aggression towards other dogs or other dog attacks. She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. If you have a German Shepherd who plays rough, you might hesitate to stop him because you might be interrupting his fun. For the most part, you would be right not to stop the play. That means you need to know when to step in and limit how rough they can get during play fighting. Otherwise, they will be incompatible with smaller breeds or children. Recent research has shown that both veterinarians and the public believe that different dog breeds differ in their sensitivity to pain. The results of this survey included the German Shepherd. In contrast, veterinarians disagreed with this view, claiming that body size was just a minor indicator of pain sensitivity. But whatever your view, German Shepherds love to play rough. Once you learn where the boundaries are, you must be assertive and step in no matter how much fun your pooch might seem to be having. You do! The solution is different for each context and is detailed in the respective subheading. German Shepherds are intelligent and receptive to training. Remember, they have the strength to herd livestock yet have historically aided in nurturing and securing them. The non-negotiable aspect of this is proper socializing. Fortunately, I have a complete guide on how to train a German Shepherd puppy. Pro Tip! Experts recommend adopting a dog of the opposite gender. For the happiest dogs and the safest homes, opposite-sex dogs almost always get along better. Many same-sex combinations will fight as they want to be the dominant pet. Get comfortable putting your German Shepherd in an effective timeout a few times. Since GSDs are intelligent, it will take less than four timeouts before understanding where the limit is. An effective timeout means marking the behavior at the precise moment it occurs, and the duration should be no more than a minute for adult dogs and just a few seconds for puppies. Letting your German Shepherd know that there are limits is not the challenging part. The challenging part is figuring out where the boundaries are. Are you looking to buy something for your dog? Make sure to check out my favorite dog gear below.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Hades and Kids: Versa, Voodoo, and Venice! Photo credit to Janette Arevalo! For over a decade now we have been breeding, training, and importing the Working Line German Shepherd. We specialize in Czech, Slovak, and West German working bloodlines, with our first litter being born in .Our dogs are carefully selected for balanced drives, excellent workability, and most importantly strong nerves. All of our dogs are health tested and certified for healthy hips, elbows, and full correct dentition must be examined before breeding. We also test our dogs for DM. A sound mind in a sound body is our philosophy. Our bloodlines are founded on dogs that are known for consistently producing high quality offspring. The goal here is to produce totally sound dogs with the versatility to work in whatever job necessary; whether it be sport, police work, personal protection, SAR, or loving family guardians. Our dogs live inside the home with my family and I will not breed a dog that cannot settle. My preference has always been a well balanced dog that is easy to live with in the house and engaging on the field. This page has a collection of useful information and research regarding nutrition, joint health, and training supplies. We have some very exciting upcoming litters for ! Our dogs are hand picked from top German breeders and are from world class West German bloodlines. We are conveniently located 40 miles from Ft. Worth and approximately one hour from Dallas TX. We are proud of our Kaiser facility and all of our outstanding dogs. Each of them is a special part of our family. It takes a great deal of experience, education, and knowledge about the breed to successfully produce world class German Shepherds. My husband Paul and I work together to ensure the highest breed standards are met. Our goal is to continue to not only meet those standards but to improve the breed. They are hand picked from top German breeders and are imported. They are from top West German bloodlines. Selective breeding program to produce superior offspring. We produce a limited number of litters each year in order to personally assure the very best care possible. Healthy puppies and adult dogs is a top priority to us. Our adult dogs have been DNA tested for degenerative myelopathy. Their hips and elbows have been certified as normal. We do a great amount of education with our new puppy owners regarding GSD growth and development, health maintenance, the importance of ongoing socialization and many other important topics about the GSD breed. We make it a practice to stay in touch with our puppy owners for ongoing education and support. We love to see our pups grow into amazing adult dogs as part of a loving family home! We also have a professional trainer available. She has worked with many of our puppies and their new families with outstanding results. She is warm, patient and loves what she does. She is careful and has a loving touch for her puppies; each one captures her heart. She has been extremely helpful to us when we have not been certain about next steps for our pup. Kaiser is not a puppy factory, but a caring, loving, thoughtful, and well read about the German Shepherd breed. So grateful for Terri and Kaiser pups! We are a German Shepherd breeder that specializes in quality, intelligent dogs with proven superior genetics. We sell German Shepherd puppies that are the perfect choice for professionals and families. We focus on producing a stable, protective line of German Shepherds that you can trust with your children. Sweet tempered companions that will protect your family and property Our German Shepherds have incredible pedigrees and we carefully choose only the best genetics to constantly improve upon the German Shepherd bloodline. We have German Shepherd puppies for sale in Texas, but arrangements can be made to sell a puppy to any state within the 48 contiguous states. We are always happy to talk or visit with you and would love to show you our beautiful German Shepherds. Our German Shepherd Dogs can be used for search and rescue, tracking, guarding, guide dogs for the blind or physically disabled, police work, show and of course a family pet. Our dogs are well socialized with children and other pets. Our puppies are AKC Registered and come with a health guarantee. Our high quality puppies are excellent with children and very easy to train. We have carefully selected world class German Shepherds with proven superior genetics. Our puppies have the potential to become champions in the show ring and your family hero. The West German bloodlines are bred to have great personalities and superb temperaments. They go through extensive training and rigorous testing to earn their titles. The West German Shepherd bloodlines are not just tested on their beauty and showmanship, but also on their ability to perform difficult tasks that require a high level of intelligence, motivation and desire to please their master. As a German Shepherd Breeder, it is our desire to provide you with an exceptional puppy that can bring you the same joy that ours have brought to our family. Our German Shepherds are the perfect choice for personal protection and are great companions for all ages. Testimonials: "Hi. He blended right into our family and we don't remember life before him. His temperament and intelligence are above average. At the vet I heard the vet and techs in the back gushing over how behaved he was and they sent me home with extra goodies for him hehe. He's already house trained. I've already been able to teach him two commands "here" and "place". He's also the best snuggler and is sooo very patient and forgiving with my tornado of a two year old son. He is the best dog I've had in my entire life and love him to the moon. I can't wait until he's old enough to start going on adventures with us. Thank ya'll for a wonderful dog! We get soooo much attention with her! We've had people literally pull off the road just to comment on her! Lots of people asking if we are going to breed her! We are meeting with someone on Friday to evaluate her for protection training. She's my girl and she knows her job well! Btw, people always ask me where I got her.I tell them all about you guys! Here are pictures of Liberty sunbathing with her sister, Queen Bitsy! She loves her boy!

Pugs will eat as much as you give them. Measure your pug's food and feed him small meals at scheduled times. As he ages, decrease how often he eats. He should eat four times a day. High-quality dry foods and wet foods are nutrient-dense, so your little guy will not need as much of it as he would lower-quality foods. You can find high-quality puppy foods in pet stores and at your veterinary clinic. Avoid semi-moist puppy foods because they contain high amounts of sugar. Adjust the amount so he is still getting his daily requirement. He may want more; but as long as he is at a healthy weight, don't start giving him extra food. Pugs gain weight easily. Obesity in pugs can lead to muscle and joint problems, diabetes and heart disease. It is doubtful that you will need to increase the amount of food per day even though your pug is growing. Your vet may suggest that you decrease the amount of food if your pug is starting to gain weight. Some owners prefer to continue the twice-a-day feedings because pugs have a smaller stomach than larger dogs. It's hard for them to digest a large amount in one feeding. It is now time to consider adult food. Introduce the new food slowly so he doesn't have difficulty digesting it. If you are concerned that your pug is not getting enough to eat, look at his shape. He should be broad at the shoulders and narrower beyond the shoulders, with a slight widening in the rump area. If his shape is square, he is getting too much food. More Articles. You may find yourself on the dog food isle trying to make sense of all the ingredients, types of foods and categories. And all you want to know is… How often and what should I feed my Pug? Every dog is different, every type of food has its specific quantities and it even varies between brands. Start simple and figure out all the details and methods. I have collected information about the different types, brands pros and cons of dog feeding to try and give an unbiased as much as I can look, so you can make a better-informed choice which will be right for you and your Pug. Remember, people care deeply about their dogs and will often get very emotional about the health and feeding they chose. Having been the owner of a pet store, I have learned that although I have my personal preferences and very good reasons for them, others may have different choices and they believe they are the right ones for them. There are a lot of issues to consider. How Many times a day should I feed My Pug? A mature Pug can easily live a healthy life with one meal which provides all his nutritional needs. In most cases, it is more convenient for both us and the pug to split this to two meals. If your Pug had a full meal in the morning, be sure he will nag you like crazy in the afternoon. Puppies have smaller stomachs and need, relative to their size, a larger quantity of food so it is better to break it up to three or even four meals a day. If you are around your Pug all day and prefer to give 4 meals a day to a mature dog, there is no harm in it, as long as the overall daily quantity stays the same. Free Buffet or Set meals? Pugs are notorious for becoming overweight and need to be limited to a set amount. If your Pug is not typical in that sense, you are welcome to put the full daily portion in the bowl and see how long it lasts. One more reason for set meals is monitoring. You want to know how much you Pug eats. If you want your Pug to lose weight, you need to know how much he is eating in order to cut down. On the flip side, if your Pug is not eating the usual amounts it may be an indication of a medical condition. What food do Pugs Eat? Pugs love food. They love treats, dry food, wet food, table scraps, raw meat, cooked meat, spicy meat and meat gone bad. In rural areas and farms, they may have also got more meaty scraps. Our Pugs who grew up with Emperors and Royalty were probably treated to high quality scraps. Today, dry bagged kibble or canned wet food are the standard for most homes, although there is a growing number of people and companies promoting more natural diets of either raw or cooked food for dogs. Every type of food claims to be the healthiest, more appropriate, tailored and nutritional. Kibble Kibble is the most common dog food available and has become the staple for the average dog. Pros of Kibble The makers of dry food claim it has the most balanced and scientifically based formulas to provide the best nutrition for a dog. They also tailor these formulas to dogs of different size, breed, age or other needs. Even the most discerning dog owners should be able a composition to satisfy them. The ingredient list is unclear and misleading. There are numerous food recalls yearly. There are websites dedicated just to keep up with the recalls. Teeth are going to need cleaning. Wet canned food Aside from the meatier texture and the higher water content, there is little difference between kibble and the canned, wet counterpart. The ingredients can be similar and so are the health benefits. Some dog owners report that wet food makes for softer stools when fed exclusively. Many dog owners will give a combination of wet and dry food. Home cooked As with human food there is a growing number of people fed up Pun intended with commercial and over engineered food. Raw food Also called the BARF Biologically Appropriate Raw Foods , the idea behind it is that the dogs digestive system has not evolved as their behavior, and much like wild dogs or wolves, they should eat the equivalent to small animals they would pray on in nature. Since dogs are also scavengers this diet will include some vegetables, berries etc. The pros As with the home-cooked diet, you have total control of ingredients and quality No preservatives, additives, fillers etc. You need to learn how to make, takes time Ingredients like bones and internal organs may not be available in your area. Can be pricy. Even More expensive if buying ready and frozen. Takes freezer space Raw Disclaimer I am a little bias towards raw food. I used to own a pet food store specializing in raw food for cats and dogs and I have been feeding my own Pugs raw food for over twelve years. Obviously, I am very happy with the raw diet and its outcomes as switching to dry food would have been easy and cheap. I believe it is the better choice for myself and my dogs. I believe I have presented the facts fairly objectively as far as the other feeding options go. There is no standard or way to measure what natural is and what the added value of it is other then the origin of it. Natural color could come from some secretion of an insect. Special Needs Puppies These little ones need the most nutritious and high-quality food you can find. If you want to find an economic way to feed your dog, please do it later in his life. Allergies Pugs are relatively sensitive to allergies. In some cases, this is due to an external source such as home detergents, but more often than not it has to do with their diet. There are a few brands that you can try with low, or no grain. If you are feeding your pug home cooked food or a raw diet, taking the carbs and grain out would be easy. Our Pugs were and are on a raw diet from day one and we never had any issues with allergies, except for one time. We started noticing that Preston had pinkish skin around his paws and around the nose fold. Since we owned a pet food store specializing in raw food, at the time convenient, I know we tried different types of meats, but nothing helped. It took us some time to realize the cause. We had our baby daughter at the time, and since she was very close and intimate with Preston, and he was eating raw, we made sure to wipe his mouth and feet with baby wipes after every meal. The baby wipes were the culprits. We switched them both to hypo-allergenic wipes and the skin went back to normal… Hip Dysplasia Pugs are ranked as one of the breeds with the highest chances of suffering from Hip Dysplasia. This can lead to trouble in walking and running and arthritis may follow as well. If your Pug is suffering from Hip Dysplasia to any extent you may want to either supplement their diet with Chondroitin and Glucosamine or to choose a brand that is made for joint support. Vets and nutrition. Having said that, if I needed nutritional advice, I would go to a nutritionist and not to my Doctor. The nutrition training vets get in many schools is provided by agents of the commercial food companies who are bias at best. Skipping meals Dogs will sometimes skip a meal. It is natural for them as food is not something that was always available on daily base. It is not typical for Pugs but it may happen. If it happens it will probably be a one meal deal. If your Pug misses a few meals in a row you may want to consult a vet. Treats and snacks I try and think of treats and snacks the same way I think of candy for my daughters. If the amount of treats your Pug is rivals the actual food, in quantity, you should reconsider or at least re calculate it. If you are using kibble both at meals and as treats for training, and your stubborn Pug ends up consuming a lot of treats, just take it off the next meal. The same goes for snacks. They should be a part of the total daily feeding and not extra. How long can a pug go without eating? An adult Pug can probably survive many days without food, but no Pug would stand for it. Unless your Pug has a medical condition, he will surely let you know he is hungry. Do make sure that your Pug is not deprived of fresh drinking water at all times. More so if the weather is hot and if he is on a dry food diet and has no other source of hydration. What if my Pug is overweight? Pugs love to eat and have a tendency to eat too much. A chubby Pug is very cute, but at some point, it becomes a health issue. Overweight Pugs may suffer from a wide range of conditions and or aggravate others. Conclusion Food is an important part of your Pugs life and will directly affect his health and well-being. Do make sure you know what your Pug is eating, the quality as well as the quantities. Actually, yes. This is an actual condition called Eye Displacement or Proptosis. It is not a common occurrence but with extreme trauma or circumstances it may happen. In most cases the condition is treatable. More on the condition here… Are Pugs Loving? Pugs have been bred as companion dogs for over two thousand years. Being with people is almost in their DNA. So yes, Pugs love to cuddle, snuggle and just be in contact or as close as they can to their human friends. More on Pug Love here. Still, you may discover information about how much to feed a Pug puppy here if you were unaware of the specifics before. Pugs are very food-motivated and will do just about anything for a tasty treat. Unfortunately, pugs gain weight as fast as any other dog breed. You are, supposedly, what you eat. The pug is a little dog, so even a slight increase in weight might be noticeable. Because of their tiny stature and low activity levels, pug pups have a lower caloric need than puppies of other breeds. Because of their unique nutritional needs, small-breed puppies should be fed food that has been developed particularly for them. Furthermore, make sure the puppy food you choose has all the nutrients it needs, and ask your physician for recommendations on how much and how often to feed the puppy. By the age of three to four weeks, you may begin feeding your puppy solid food. Mix equal parts of puppy chow and milk replacer as a first step. Give a little bit teaspoons many times a day. Weaning off of milk and onto solid food is complete when a pug puppy reaches this age. Independence from their mother and siblings and other littermates may begin to emerge. Puppies may start interacting socially and maturing rapidly at this age. Water should be kept fresh at all times. This is a good age to start teaching children to use the restroom without assistance. At this age, pug pups are full of energy and wonder. As they become older, puppies often become more receptive to training and socializing. There may be a period of boundary testing when they need constant guidance in training and socializing. Baby teeth may start falling out and adult teeth emerging in puppies. Proper potty training should have been completed. They may begin to express themselves more openly and build their own identities. Get started on the changeover to puppy food for adult dogs. They may test limits and need ongoing socialization and discipline. Make sure they get lots of exercise to keep their weight in check. Their interests and preferences in playthings and other pursuits may become more clearly defined. Maintain a high volume of physical activity and intellectual challenge. Pug pups achieve their full size at this point, however they may continue to gain weight. As puppies become older, they often become more devoted to their families and develop stronger bonds with them. The amount they eat should be adjusted based on their weight. At reaching adulthood, pugs often slow down and spend more time lounging. They may set in their ways, but they can still be taught new tricks with enough repetition. Aging symptoms in adult pugs include the development of gray hair and a general slowing down of activity. Understanding Pug Puppy Nutritional Needs Depending on factors including their age, weight, and level of activity, the calorie needs of Pug puppies might change over time. Pug puppies, on the whole, may need anything from to calories each day. The food of a Pug puppy should consist of between 22 and 25 percent protein, since this is the macronutrient most crucial for promoting healthy muscle and tissue development. Consuming between 8 and 10 percent of their calories from fat is recommended for optimal health and energy levels. To maintain a healthy skin and coat, they need omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids as well. High-quality commercial puppy chow designed for pups is what you should be feeding your Pug. The growth and development of pug pups may be supported by feeding them multiple little meals throughout the day. Feeding them three to four times a day till they are roughly six months old is the norm. To figure out how often and how much to feed your Pug puppy, talk to your vet. Having access to clean water at all times is also crucial. Puppies of the Pug breed need three meals every day. For ages 8 weeks to 6 months, try to stick to this schedule for feedings. As soon as your Pug reaches 6 months of age, you may begin reducing the number of times each day it is fed to twice. Kibble is practical since it may aid in the prevention of tartar accumulation and can be stored easily. Yet, the added moisture provided by wet foods may aid in the fight against dehydration and support efficient digestion. Wet food may have a better texture and flavor for certain Pug pups, while kibble may be a better choice for others. You should talk to your vet about what kind of food and how often you should feed your Pug puppy. Yet the specific time might vary from dog to dog based on their nutritional requirements. To prevent stomach trouble, the change should be made slowly over the course of a few weeks. Puppy anorexia may be caused by several things, including sickness, dental issues, stress, and dietary or habit changes. In the meanwhile, you may try introducing a new kind of food or moistening their normal kibble with a little quantity of wet food or broth to pique their interest. Do not feed your Pug puppy any human food or table scraps since this might cause gastric discomfort and other health issues. Pugs have a tendency toward becoming overweight and overeating, which may lead to a host of medical complications. Instead, you should make sure your Pug puppy is receiving the right quantity of food by sticking to a regular feeding schedule and controlling portions. This may improve general conduct and aid in the process of teaching toilet independence. This formula is designed for purebred Pugs. Little dogs with short muzzles may easily pick up and chew the kibble design. This meal supports Pug immunological, skin, and digestive health with antioxidants and important nutrients. Supports digestive health 2. Calcium, phosphorus, and vitamins strengthen bones and teeth in this specifically prepared combination. Vitamins, chelated minerals, and antioxidants for immune system, Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids for skin and hair No corn, wheat, soy, or chicken or poultry by-product meal Cons May contain artificial flavors 3. This puppy chow supports strong muscles and a healthy heart by starting with high-quality protein. Antioxidants and natural glucosamine will maintain his joints for a lifetime of sports. Pros Protein-rich chicken is the first ingredient DHA aids puppy brain and visual development Four antioxidants boost immunity Omega-6, vitamins, and minerals for skin and coat No artificial flavors or preservatives. Best Dog Foods for Pugs Choosing the right dog food for a Pug is essential as this will ensure that it gets proper nutrition. However, this can be challenging and time-consuming, considering that there is a lot to choose from. Whether you choose to feed your Pug commercial, homemade food, or raw food, make sure that they are of good quality and recommended by a trusted veterinarian. Proper nutrition is one of the factors that affect their lifespan. Below is a list of the best dog food choices for your Pug: Dry Food: One of the best options for Pugs is dry dog food as it is widely available, cheap, and has a long shelf life. These are packed with all the nutrients essential for your Pug. Wet Food: Wet dog food is another good option for Pugs. Its flavor and texture make it more appealing to Pugs than dry food. Wet food contains fewer grains, making it healthier and easier to digest. However, wet canned food has a shorter shelf life and should be consumed immediately after opening. Wet foods are also more expensive than dry foods. Homemade Food: Your Pug may benefit from cooked food consisting of chicken, eggs, fish, rice, and vegetables. The process is time-consuming, but it is less expensive and more convenient in the long run, especially if you plan on giving them a grain-free diet. Raw Food: Raw food diet for most Pugs results in better digestion, healthy skin, and a stronger immune system in Pugs. Mixing any of the aforementioned food choices is also good. Hence, you may want to try dog food alternatives to fit your budget. With their sensitive little stomachs, some foods can be poisonous, cause allergic reactions, and can even be lethal. Below is a list of food that you should completely avoid feeding to your Pug: Alcohol: Any amount of alcohol is hazardous for Pugs. Pugs do not have the enzyme to metabolize alcohol. Ingestion can cause hypoglycemia , metabolic acidosis , breathing problems, and central nervous system CNS impairment. Avocado: Avocado contains persin , a fungicidal toxin that has been linked to the death of many animals, including Pugs. It can cause diarrhea, vomiting, and heart damage in large quantities. As a result, even small amounts of chocolate can cause poisoning. Grapes and raisins: Grapes and raisins contain tartaric acid , which causes vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, and kidney failure among Pugs. Unfortunately, even one whole grape can cause irreversible damage and death in small breeds like Pugs. Macadamia nuts and walnuts: While the exact reason why they are poisonous is unknown, it is best to avoid giving them to your Pugs entirely. In Pugs, macadamia and walnuts can cause diarrhea, weakness, breathing problems, and pancreatitis. Onion, garlic, leeks, and chives: All these vegetables contain N-propyl disulfide , which damages the oxygen-carrying substances in red blood cells. Ingestion of these vegetables can eventually lead to hemolytic anemia. Xylitol: In Pugs, xylitol can cause a rapid release of insulin, resulting in hypoglycemia, lethargy, collapse, and seizures. It is frequently found in gums, candies, syrups, and toothpaste. Pugs should avoid the foods listed above at all costs. Food with high sugar content: If your Pug consumes too much sugar, it is more likely to develop health problems such as diabetes, obesity, and tooth decay. Food with high sugar content can also give Pugs an upset stomach. Salty food: Just like sugar, too much salt can cause health problems in Pugs. If left unchecked, it has the potential to poison your Pug. Excessive salt consumption can cause vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, and kidney failure. Milk and dairy products: Because the majority of Pugs are lactose intolerant , dairy products can make them sick. They will have digestive problems because they are unable to break down lactose. This causes gastrointestinal blockage and death if left unattended. If you think your Pug has accidentally ingested any of the aforementioned foods, bring your dog to the nearest veterinary clinic for appropriate treatment. Transitioning to a new brand or type of food may be beneficial to their well-being and development. For most dogs, transitioning to new dog food can be difficult. Fortunately, Pugs are not born picky eaters, so changing their diet will be easier. The ideal transition for Pugs should be gradual changes spread over three weeks. Do this until they are comfortable with the new food. Below is a more detailed breakdown of how to transition your Pug to a new food: Days. Aug 25, Share An important part of taking good care of your Pug puppy is making sure that they are properly fed and that they get all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Puppies have different nutritional needs than adult dogs, and if your Pug is like most, they seem to like anything that they are fed. Luckily, there are many commercial foods available on the market. There is also the raw doggy food diet that seems to keep getting more popular as time goes on. But what kind of dog food is right for your Pug? How much should you be feeding them? What will the dog not eat? Are there special considerations for a senior Pug? The answers to these questions and more can be found in our Pug feeding guide below. What you do decide to feed your pooch should be based on the quality of the food, no matter the type, and your personal feeding preferences. Here is what can be on the table for your Pug. Image credit: PxHere Commercial Dry Food Kibble Commonly referred to as kibble, commercial dry dog food is the most common and widely available option on the market. Manufacturers of this type of food work hard to balance the ingredients and create a completely balanced nutritional profile for dogs like your Pug. In fact, some brands, like Royal Canin, offer puppy and adult foods made just for Pugs. Whether you choose a dry dog food made just for Pugs or one made for dogs in general, it should include real meat or animal meal as one of the first ingredients on the list. The upside to commercial dry dog food is that it is affordable and easy to administer. It is also typically easy to store for the long term without worrying about it spoiling. The downside is that it tends to be dehydrating, so water should be available to your Pug throughout the day. Commercial Wet Food Commercially made wet dog food tends to be more nutrient-dense than dry food because it contains fresher ingredients and usually has fewer grains, if any at all. Most wet foods have real whole meat or seafood and broth as the first ingredients. Sometimes, veggies are thrown in for good measure, but many are meat-centric to meet the high protein needs of your growing Pug. Wet food is not as easy to store as dry food is, because it must be refrigerated after being opened. However, Pugs tend to enjoy the flavor and texture of wet food more than dry. Wet food is also a little more expensive than dry food, especially when trying to feed Pugs that are full-grown and in their prime. Raw Food A raw food diet is said to result in better digestion, a healthier coat and immune system , optimal dental health, and less susceptibility to allergies among other things. A raw food diet typically consists of quality meat, a source of calcium such as bones , animal organs, and a lower fat count than most commercial foods offer. Feeding your Pug a raw food diet will take commitment and a strong understanding of the nutrition that they need. This type of diet can be expensive and can require storage space in the fridge and freezer. It is recommended that you consult with a veterinarian to put together a complete meal plan to follow if you choose to go this route. It is a freeze-dried raw food supplement that is delicious and nutritious. The process requires about a day of cooking in the kitchen, but the time that you spend in your kitchen should yield enough food for your pooch to eat all week long. You will just have to store the leftovers in the fridge each day until the entire batch has been offered and consumed. Homemade dog food usually consists of whole meat like chicken, eggs, fish oil or flaxseed, brown or white rice, possibly vegetables like carrots and peas , and maybe even supplements of some kind. It depends on what kind of recipe you decide to follow. Any recipe that you consider feeding your dog should be approved by your veterinarian first. But you can quickly tell whether your pooch is being underfed or overfed by checking out their physique every day. If your dog is underfed for too long, you could notice signs like lethargy and an unwillingness to interact with family members. If your dog is overfed, they may succumb to problems like diabetes. If you find that your dog is getting underweight, start feeding them up to an extra cup of food each day. Reduce the amount by up to a cup if your dog is getting pudgy and out of shape. To help avoid under and overfeeding your dog, follow the feeding directions on the packaging of any commercial food you buy for them. If you decide to go the raw or homemade food route, your veterinarian can provide you with a feeding guide. You are free to use this image, but please give credit back to Hepper. Extra immune support is also typically present in puppy food. Once Pugs become adults, they are not as active as when they were pups, and they are not growing at exponential rates, if at all. Therefore, they need food with less protein than what puppies get. Pugs can typically switch to adult dog food between the ages of 9 and 12 months because much of their growth will be complete at this time. The tricky part is the actual process of switching your pooch from puppy to adult dog food. If not done slowly and intentionally, switching to a new food can cause digestion issues for your dog that could create messes around the house. Lethargy and nausea may follow. Finally, offer only adult food. There are many reasons why your Pug might seem like they do not have an appetite. The first thing to consider is whether you are overfeeding them. If your pooch does not want to eat their last meal of the day, they could simply be full and satisfied. However, other issues could lead to a pup not eating such as: Dental Problems. If your Pug has a toothache or some other kind of dental problem, they may not be comfortable eating. Check for red gums, bleeding, and tenderness throughout the mouth. If something unusual is detected, consult your veterinarian immediately for guidance. Recent Vaccinations. Vaccines can cause side effects, including a lack of appetite. So, if your Pug does not seem to want to eat for a day or two after getting vaccinated, this is normal. Uncomfortable Surroundings. If your pooch goes on an adventure with you and is expected to eat their meal in a situation that is not familiar to them, they may pass on the meal altogether in favor of waiting until they get to what they feel is a safe space to eat. Even if your dog seems fine in every other way, a lack of wanting to eat could mean an illness of some kind is brewing. If you cannot find any other reason for a lack of appetite, you should see your vet as soon as possible. Adult Pugs will generally eat about a cup of dry commercial dog food each day or the equivalent, although certain differences might scale this amount up or down as time goes on. Here are the most important factors to consider. Active vs. Sedentary More active dogs will require more food than those that tend to be sedentary. If your pooch takes multiple walks every day, spends a great deal of time playing with kids throughout the day, or enjoys outdoor time with family members each afternoon, chances are that your dog will need a little more food than the average pooch. If your pooch takes only one short walk each day and spends most of their time lounging around the house, chances are that they should be fed as sedentary dogs. Spayed vs. Neutered Sometimes, dogs that are not spayed or neutered eat more than the average pooch. This is because they tend to be more active and excitable, which results in the need for more calories to support their energy needs. Pregnancy Pregnant Pugs need up to twice the amount of food that an adult dog would need. Instead of feeding your pregnant dog puppy or adult food, consider a food designed for all life stages that indicates its suitability for pregnancy. This type of food offers more protein and fat than adult food to support the extra growth they go through, but not as much as puppy food, which could make them overweight after the birth. What Foods Are Bad for Pugs? Image By: Momentmal, Pixabay There are a few foods that you should never feed your Pug to ensure their good health and to avoid serious problems like poisoning and even death. Here are a few food items that should be avoided at all costs: Alcohol. For a more detailed growth milestone description, check out our sections below to see how and when you should switch your pug puppy from nursing to solid food. This case or scenario usually happens if the litter is too large and the mother is not healthy enough to supply milk to all of them. It also happens when some members of the litter overpower the other, causing some puppies to be thinner. The third week is usually the best time to start training your puppy with solid food. Again, talk to your vet if your puppy is already capable of handling such food before you start, or you can do a taste test. Most pet owners mix water and puppy food so that the pug puppy will easily digest it. Keep in mind to not let the food go bad and remove it from their cage or quarters after 20 minutes of not being eaten to avoid bacterial contamination. However, you should be mindful of the puppy food that you put in. Ask for advice from your vet, especially if your pug puppy experiences food allergies. However, this will vary depending on when you start feeding your puppy with solid food. The nursing amount during this period will be very minimal. Half a cup of food is still the recommended daily amount for your pug puppy. However, you have the option to extend the number of feedings up to 4 per day. This is especially if your puppy gets hungry more often due to growth spurts. Feel free to supplement their daily food if you see them even more active than the usual pugs. Always make their food healthy as much as possible by providing plenty amounts of protein and little to no artificial flavorings and fillers. This is also the time when your puppy can be re-homed or adopted. They should be fully weaned by 8 weeks of age. However, if you will be the one to adopt, listen carefully so that you know what to feed your puppy. It helps to create a checklist and written schedule so that your puppy feeds properly and with the same type of food that the breeder gave to them. If you have to switch to a different brand of food due to unavailability or other reasons, make sure to address it first and ask for a counterpart. Be wary that food changes should be done over days. This includes doing a portion ratio of for the new food to the old food, gradually increasing the new food after every few days. However, if you are feeding wet food, make it 3 times a day instead, and it should be four ounces in total. Again, consult our puppy chart above or talk to your vet about changes in their weight to know if they are underfed or overweight. Treats should be counted in their daily calories and should be limited to avoid weight issues. Recommended Food Pugs generally need a combination of healthy ingredients to manage their weight. Dry food or kibble is typically the best choice for pug owners who live in a place near the shorelines where food can go bad quickly. If you have kibble that is rich in omega fatty acids, it will help your coat and skin to stay healthy, as well as to maintain a healthy tummy and keep them away from most canine illnesses. Protein-rich wet food If you want to feed your pug puppy wet or canned food, make sure it has fewer preservatives and more nutrients and protein. Wet or canned food is also better for puppies that need hydration. Carrots and similar vegetables Pug puppies work best with carrots not just because of their vitamin A content but also their crunchiness. Glucosamine-rich foods Look for glucosamine foods such as those with fish and chicken, as well as seafood. Pug puppies can be prone to joint problems if not taken care of concerning their diet. Glucosamine and chondroitin can help fight the onset of hip dysplasia. Like chocolate, caffeine is also not suitable for canines due to its toxicity to their digestive system. They will only cause your pug pup to become obese if they take too much of it. Instead, stick to whole meat and protein sources. Foods with too much fat This includes fats that come from various meat sources. Instead, do it in weeks or so. Build up their daily dish with a ratio of adult and puppy food. Gradually decrease the old puppy food while increasing the adult food, until only the adult food is left. You might ask: why should I do the transition slowly? Their tummies might get shocked if you feed them with a different kind of food right away, so get them used to a little bit of the new food first. What should I do if my pug puppy refused to eat? A possible problem with your pug pup could be a toothache or something related to their dental health. Have them check with their vet to see if they have something wrong with their teeth or gums. Aside from that, if they have recently moved from one home to another, they could also feel stressed and overwhelmed if they are in a new environment. This causes them to not eat at all or only eat a few bites of the food. Moreover, getting vaccinated could also be a possible cause of the loss of appetite. Raw feeding a Pug puppy Raw food is okay to be fed to your pug puppy. However, it must be done with care because too much or too little amount of certain foods will lead to a lack of nutrients that they need. For example, you might give too much protein but not much calcium and other vitamins to your puppy. Another possible challenge with raw food is the time for preparation. If you are a very busy person, raw feeding might not be your forte since it requires shopping for the right ingredients and calculating the correct amount of food nutrients for your puppy. Conclusion As a whole, pug puppies should be fed with care, especially with watching their calorie intake and meal portions. We hope this guide helped you in feeding your pug puppy properly! And the total number of dogs all breeds in the reports are .So while this is something that should be monitored and many more studies need to be done, it's important to keep in mind that this is a very small number compared to the estimated 77 million dogs in the U. The latest update is that there are no recalls at this moment that are linked to this issue. The Best Food for Pug Puppies and Adults What to Avoid: Quite a few ingredients that are found in a lot of dog food brands can be severely detrimental to a Pug and cause everything from allergic reactions itching, rashes, wheezing, running eyes, etc. Corn which includes as corn germ meal, corn gluten meal, and corn bran High grain counts which includes high levels of wheat, oats, barley, and other cereal grains which may be listed as hominy feed. Rice can be an exception; with rice, the hull, bran layer, and cereal germ is removed and for this reason, rice is often tolerated very well. By-products which are animal body parts deemed unfit for human consumption and can include brain, lungs, undeveloped eggs, and more. Generic meats or oils which can legally include roadkill and deceased zoo animals. What to Look For: All-natural preservatives; there are vitamin blends that work very well to preserve dog food and this often will show as mixed tocopherols. Natural flavoring Protein will come from wholesome animal sources including chicken, turkey, lamb, fish, bison, and beef. There will be no by-products or generic meats. If you offer grains, gluten-free grains are usually best. No other fillers or controversial additives. Helpful extras such as glucosamine and chondroitin beneficial for joint health , omega-3, 6 for healthy skin and coat , probiotics for immune health and antioxidants to help prevent disease. Some of the best food for Pugs includes: Best Formulas with Grains: 1. Wellness Complete Health for Small Breeds. The base of this kibble is turkey and oatmeal which is easy on the stomach for most Pugs. There is also salmon, brown rice, peas, carrots, spinach, sweet potatoes, blueberries, and apples. There are excellent levels of a wide-range of vitamins and minerals, good levels of omega-3 and 6, and glucosamine and chondroitin which are extremely beneficial joint supplements for Pugs. This is made in the US. Note that this offers puppy and adult formulas as well as 'healthy weight' for Pugs that need to lose a few pounds, and a senior formula. This line of Halo offers holistic recipes. This one has non-GMO produce and meats that are antibiotic-free and hormone-free with factory-free farming. The grains in this are oatmeal and pearled barley which are generally known for being well-tolerated. This is sized ideally for Pugs, and has no artificial additives, by-products, or corn. And, this is made in the US. Best Grain-free Formulas: 1. This is one of the best grain-free kibbles for Pugs; it's really top-of-the-line. The base is chicken and turkey. There is a wide selection of vegetables and fruits compared to some other brands spinach, broccoli, carrots, kale, sweet potatoes, apples and blueberries. Levels of omega fatty acids are ideal, via both salmon oil and flaxseed. And, there are good levels of glucosamine and chondroitin which as mentioned earlier are important for joint health. There is no corn, wheat, by-products, fillers, or artificial coloring, flavoring, or preservatives and this is made in the USA. This is another excellent choice that is formulated for dogs under 70 lbs. There are several great bases including lamb, beef, chicken, and salmon. There are zero chemical preservatives and no artificial ingredients. Added extras are healthy antioxidants, omega-3 and 6, and the very important glucosamine and chondroitin which are very beneficial for breeds like the Pug that are prone to joint and hip issues. This is a holistic kibble that offers non-GMO veggies and fruits and sustainably-sourced wild-caught fish and is ideal for Pugs that are carrying a few extra pounds. The base is salmon and whitefish, so most dogs love the taste. There are no chemical preservatives, corn, by-products, coloring, or fillers. Switching a Pug onto a Different Food If you just got a new Pug puppy, you may want to feed your little guy or gal something different than what was being given. And in many instances, this will be a good idea. The sooner you start your pup on a superior food that you've chosen yourself, the better. If you have an adult Pug, you may decide to switch foods due to an intolerance to certain ingredients some dogs do best with certain proteins like beef as opposed to chicken or vice-versa or maybe you realized that your Pug was not on the brand and you want to make a change. No matter the circumstances, if at all possible, it is best to change to a new brand of dog food in a gradual way because a quick switch can disrupt the digestive system. The goal should be a incremental change over the course of 3 weeks. Home Cooking Owners decide to home cook for their dogs for a variety of reasons: It can be less expensive; though, this depends quite a bit on what you buy and if you can purchase ingredients in bulk. It may be done to fully avoid preservatives, additives, by-products and other subpar ingredients; you know exactly what you are putting in. This can help avoid an intolerance or allergic reaction to an unknown ingredient. It is very flexible and adjustable. It can be a good choice for picky eaters. Other sources include beans such as lima beans, kidney beans, and butter beans must be cooked. Vegetables - This includes peas, carrots, spinach, zucchini, green beans, bell peppers, and butternut squash. You can also offer asparagus, kale, cauliflower, and broccoli in moderation since these foods can cause gas, Pumpkin in moderation is fine but typically reserved to help ease upset stomach issues. Fruits - This includes blueberries, raspberries both are low calorie, high in antioxidants, and water-packed , strawberries, huckleberries, banana, cantaloupe, honeydew melon, mango, kiwi, pear, peaches no pit , plums no pit , nectarines no pit , fresh pineapple, and apple no core, no seeds. Additional - This includes oatmeal plain , white or brown rice if no intolerance , quinoa, potato, sweet potato, cottage cheese, plain whole white yogurt, and eggs most dogs do best with scrambled eggs vs. Read more about home cooking for a Pug. Snacks and Treats We've covered the frequency of giving snacks and treats, but let's recap. Dry snacks, meant to satiate a dog in between meals should be given 3 to 4 times per day. And moist treats, meant to reward training and reinforce good behavior, should be given as needed. Now, the question remains on what to offer. All snacks and treats should be held to the same high standards that you have in place for your Pug's meals, meaning no synthetic preservatives, artificial coloring, artificial flavoring, soy, corn, by-products, high wheat levels, or generic meats. If your Pug's calorie intake needs to be carefully watched due to issues with weight gain, there will also be a need to opt for some low-calorie treats. And, to see more options, including moist treats for giving reward, continue on to the best snacks and treats for Pugs. After 2 to 3 days, if the problem has resolved, adding in additional ingredients can be done. Any diarrhea lasing longer than 3 days or moderate to severe vomiting lasting more than 12 hours should be brought to the attention of the veterinarian. Water Different elements will dictate just how much water a Pug dog requires , though a general rule of thumb is that each day, dogs need to drink about 1 ounce for each 1 pound. Offer bottled spring water or use a filter device like the. Related Articles: When a Pug is a Picky Eater - If you find yourself constantly scrambling to find foods that your Pug likes and their taste buds seem to change weekly, this will help you get things back on track. When a Pug is Always Hungry - If your Pug's appetite is ferocious and nothing seems to satisfy, these issues may be at the root of the problem. When a Pug Won't Eat - If your Pug puppy or dog refuses to eat or getting them to eat feels like a chore, these tips will help. How to Stop a Pug from Begging - If your Pug wants your food and is relentless about getting it, these guidelines will help stop this sort of behavior. Top 10 Pug Dog Eating Problems - A roundup of the most common eating-related issues seen with this breed and exact steps to resolve them. Do you have your book? All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.

All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. Tweet on Twitter A six week old puppy is an adorable bundle of fun. He looks pretty sturdy and independent too and you may wonder if its okay to bring him home to live with you right now. How much should a 6 week old puppy Lab weigh? How much a puppy weighs at six weeks old will depend on a number of factors. If his parents were bigger than average, then he probably will be too. The chances are, he will weigh in at somewhere between 10 and 15lbs. If his parents were small, he might weigh less. Labradors from working lines are often lighter than their show or pet bred cousins. Hop over to our guide to puppy growth to find out more about this fascinating topic. How many teeth do 6 week old puppies have Your six week old puppy probably has a full set of baby teeth — if not, he will have a full set within the next week or two. We have a great guide to puppy teething where you can find out more. Are 6 week old puppies weaned? Many puppies are fully weaned onto solid food by about six weeks old. They may still be suckling occasionally from their mother, but are no longer dependent on her for milk. This has to be divided into small portions fed at intervals throughout the day. You can find out more about what puppies eat in our popular puppy feeding guide. At six weeks old your puppy will need very frequent meals How many meals does a 6 week old puppy need Your breeder may be feeding your puppy and her brothers and sisters up to six times a day. There needs to be an adult present throughout the day to cope with the constant feeding and de-pooping. By the time she is ready to collect at 8 weeks, your pup will be down to four slightly bigger meals a day. Do 6 week old puppies play? Six week old puppies play a lot. They play with their mother, and most of all with their brothers and sisters. This play is very important as it teaches the puppies to be more gentle with their teeth and to get used to being jostled and bumped about by other living things. Why do 6 week old puppies sleep so much? At six weeks, a puppy is still very much a baby and needs lots of deep sleep. At least 18 hours a day. Your puppy sleeps best in a big heap with all her brothers and sisters, or snuggled up against her mother. She uses that sleeping time to grow, mature, and develop her immunity. Are six week old puppies potty trained By six weeks puppies are able to leave the nest or whelping box for bathroom purposes and know how to keep their sleeping quarters nice and clean. Can 6 week old puppies leave their mother At six weeks, a puppy needs his mother for play, contact and reassurance. Is it okay to bring a puppy home at 6 weeks? But supposing there are exceptional circumstances? Is it okay to bring a puppy home at six weeks if you really need to? Even more importantly than his need for his mother, a six week old pup needs his litter mates. So even if his mother were to tragically die, your puppy should still remain with his brothers and sisters for a short while longer. This helps him to develop bite inhibition and social skills. Bite inhibition The process of learning bite inhibition is a long one. It begins whilst puppies are quite small and first learning to play with one another and with their mother. And it carries on until they are several months old. By the time you bring a puppy home at eight weeks, however needle sharp you think his teeth are, he has already learned a lot of bite inhibition from his mum and siblings. Although you have to continue this process, some of the hard work has already been done. At nine weeks, my own young pup could crush the bone in a chicken wing in seconds, yet never actually even drew blood when biting my fingers. This is not easy and has to be done in stages. You cannot just punish the dog for all biting or it will not learn the vital skill of bite inhibition. You can read more about bite inhibition here. Bite inhibition problems are more likely with puppies that have been removed from their mother too early, and can be very difficult to manage if you have small children. Touch tolerance A puppy in the nest is being jostled constantly. This puppy still needs his littermates to help him learn to play nicely. Labrador puppies that are removed from this jostling experience too young may dislike being touched or bumped in certain parts of their bodies. There is a potential for this to lead to behavioral problems, including aggression, later in life. And that can be a challenge. Resist the temptation If a breeder asks you to take a puppy home at five to six weeks of age, be very suspicious. Only in the most dire circumstances should a breeder let puppies go this young. Bear in mind that some disreputable breeders will make up excuses to get rid of puppies when they get to this age. This is the point at which the puppies are becoming both time consuming, messy, and expensive to care for. It is a full time job keeping them fed and clean for the next couple of weeks. But a responsible breeder will have prepared for that. Short of a personal disaster, no reputable breeder will normally request or permit a puppy to leave her premises before eight weeks. Even more concerning is the practice of selling puppies at four or five weeks old, or in some cases, younger. So perhaps breeding standards are rising. But I do want to address one argument put to me recently. I received a letter from a reader in India who felt I did not understand the situation there. He told me that in many cases, breeders were so awful that puppies were most likely to survive if removed from them at the earliest possible opportunity. The problem with this argument is exactly the same as the argument here in the UK or in the USA against buying puppies from puppy mills or pet stores, or out of the back of a van. And in may cases to an early death. The breeder is only in it for money, so every puppy they sell, they will replace with another. Short of dramatic changes in the law which are not going to happen any time soon, the only way to stop this horrible trade is to dry up the demand for poorly bred puppies. And that is really down to you, the puppy buyer. The outlook for the adult female dogs used to produce those puppies is even worse, so please spare a thought for them too. Buying a puppy from the wrong breeder just perpetuates bad breeding practices. The answer is to walk away and find someone that is breeding dogs responsibly. Your two week wait! So what can you do between the time your puppy is six weeks old and the day he is ready to come home? You can be busy getting your home and yard puppy proof, and buying essential puppy supplies, toys and bedding. Dip into our Puppy Essentials list for ideas! Either way, this is not the person you want to be responsible for giving your puppy the best start in life Again, please, do think hard before bringing a young puppy home before he or she is eight weeks old. She helps you avoid puppy mills and other pitfalls along the way. Choosing The Perfect Puppy takes all the strain out of making this important decision and is available worldwide. Save to Pinterest The Stages of Puppy Growth and Development Month by Month The following are the stages of puppy growth and development, starting at birth and ending when your dog reaches adulthood. The Neonatal Stage 0 to 2 weeks This is the newborn puppy growth stage that lasts until two weeks of age. At this developmental stage, puppies are blind and deaf. Expect puppies at this point to sleep almost constantly and their mother will take care of everything, keeping them warm, feeding them, and keeping them clean. The Transitional Stage 2 to 4 weeks At this puppy growth stage , they will start to open up their eyes and respond to sounds, light, and movement around them. You will also notice a puppy at this point starting to get more mobile, although they will still tend to crawl instead of walking. They do, however, have enough strength to stand up, but will stumble a lot. A puppy in this developmental stage will just be starting to recognize their siblings and mother. Lab puppies open their eyes at about two weeks old. By this time, Labrador puppies will have their eyes fully open and most will be at least partly open. Ears open at this point too and your puppy will begin to hear. Period of Awakening of Senses 3 to 4 weeks At this period , a puppy develops various senses rapidly. They start to get fully alert and aware of their environment and may recognize you and other humans that are frequently around. The Socialization Period 4 to 7 Weeks Once a puppy is around four weeks old, they start to learn the most important things in life-related to social development. They will learn to not bite all the time and how to interact with their siblings. Interactions with humans are especially important between five and seven weeks. This is also the time they will start to understand discipline thanks to their mother. She will start weaning her puppies and teaching them manners, like acknowledging she is in charge. As the owner, you can start introducing food to your puppy when they are around four weeks old. Start small and begin to give them more food as the mother continues to wean them. You should also continue handling the puppy every day. However, be sure not to separate them from their siblings or mother for over ten minutes each day, since this can lead to issues with training and socialization. Dogs who are separated too soon may also be nervous and more likely to bark and bite. During this period, let the mother dog take care of discipline; you should not correct the dog for mouthing or housebreaking mistakes until later in life. To help ease them through this process, avoid traumatic events, loud voices, or harsh discipline. You should also make sure your pooch has plenty of human contact during this stage. If you want, you can start leash training and even teach simple commands such as sit, down, stay and come. In terms of development, you will notice that your puppy can sleep through the whole night and starts to develop better control of its bowels and bladder. Most vets suggest that new outings should wait until they are fully vaccinated. We rub the Calmeroos Puppy Toy on littermates and mom to get their scent. When we get home the Calmeroos Puppy Toy helps our puppy feel comfortable and adjust more quickly to his new environment. Many puppies will go to their new homes at around 8 weeks old. We recently put together a blog post on our sister site detailing what you can expect from an 8-week-old puppy. The Juvenile Stage 3 to 4 Months At this point in development, a puppy can be compared to a juvenile. They will be more independent and may ignore the basic commands that they know very well. If this happens, firmly and gently reinforce the commands and other training. You may also notice your pup starting to test your authority by play biting or similar actions. You can also redirect your dog to a toy that they can bite. Either can end up teaching your pooch that it is okay to fight with you and challenge your authority. The Ranking Period 3 to 6 Months When your puppy is between four and six months old, you should expect them to be somewhat bratty, showing more willfulness and independence. They are more likely to test your limits and may try to show dominance over children or other family members. If they fail to listen to you or come when called, it can be dangerous as it puts them at risk of injury when in public. It can also hurt future responses to you, making them less likely to listen. This is also when your dog will be teething, so give them toys like frozen dog Kong toys to relieve pressure and pain. Chewing behaviors will also start growing at this point so look for some safe chew toys to keep your dog entertained. This is when hormonal changes start to occur and is the ideal time to spay or neuter your pup. UC Davis published a study comparing the long-term health effects of neutering in Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers. Adolescence 6 to 18 Months After six months, your pup is already in the final stage of puppy development but is still young. This is a fun and exciting time for your pooch since they will be learning, full of energy, and exuberant. During this time, it is important to remember that even if your puppy now looks like a grown-up dog, they are still a puppy, at least in its mental capacity and emotional maturity. Work to slowly increase training and other activities. You can even work on advanced training such as agility or herding. Another option is to simply keep training them to ensure they interact in a non-aggressive and non-threatening way with other animals. It is also possible that your dog will go through another fearful period of time at some point after they reach six months. You can speed up the process with counter-conditioning and desensitization. It fits very well and is quite apt! Final Thoughts With the knowledge of how and when your new puppy will develop, you are better able to meet their needs. Provide socialization at the appropriate times and be sure to give your puppy plenty of social interactions with their siblings as well as humans and any other pets in your home. Your dog should reach maturity at some point between one and two years old with plenty of variation based on breed, Labradors are considered mature at between 2 and 2. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining.

Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy. Time to start potty training your Labrador Puppy Potty training or house training is one of the first things that you will have to focus on after bringing home a Labrador Puppy. However, you must know what to expect when toilet training a Lab puppy, you must be prepared with patience and dedication since house training can be difficult in the beginning. Here are the house-training basics that you will need to follow to train your puppy. House training is done over time, and here is how. You can also take your puppy into your yard if you have one. Teaching your lab puppy go potty in the yard is the best idea since Labradors produce a lot of waste when they are grown. If you live in an apartment you have no other option but to take your Lab outside to evacuate. Lab puppies love to go outside and explore new territories. So for apartment dwellers, the first months of potty training will happen indoors. Puppies can refuse to go potty on surfaces that they are not used to. For example, if your puppy gets used to evacuating on hard floors, going potty in the grass will feel awkward to your puppy, and will prefer to do it on the sidewalk. So, using an artificial grass puppy pad while you potty train your Lab indoors can help to transition to real grass when your puppy is ready to explore the outside world. How to toilet train a Labrador Retriever Puppy Keep an eye on your puppy for signs like circling, sniffing, and scratching the floor. This means that your puppy needs to potty. Take your puppy outside or to the designated potty place in your house or apartment. This will help your dog know that is the place to go do the thing. If the activity is successful praise your puppy for doing a good job. You can also give your Lab puppy a treat for doing a good job, Labs are a food-motivated breed, so yummy treats help a lot with training. Positive reinforcement will help your Labrador to go potty in the right place. Limiting the movement of your puppy will make it easier to keep an eye on during this process. Consider using baby gates to close an area of your house. The area must be big enough so that your puppy can move and play inside. It should be close to your yard or the area of your house where you want your Lab to go potty. Also, this area must be easy to clean, you can expect accidents in this part of the potty training. Then take the puppy to the potty place and let it finish there. Do not scare the puppy if you catch it in the act, the goal is to get its attention and let it know that it is not doing the right thing. This is something you must teach your dog. Do it patiently and be consistent with the training and eventually, you will get your Labrador fully house-trained. Use some white vinegar diluted in water or an enzymatic odor remover to thoroughly clean the area. For this period, you might need the following items to begin potty training your Labrador puppy. Make sure they are all pet-friendly and of a reputable brand name. Absorbent pee pad : Dog training pads mostly come in handy in the first stages of house training, before your puppy can go potty outside. The benefit of a pad is that the mess your puppy makes will be confined to just one place and it will be easier for you to clean up. Stain Remover : As a routine, accidents are bound to happen. And this is why having a good cleaner is extremely important. Along with a pet, cleaner make sure you also have ample small towels on hand. Dog poop bag and Pooper scooper : Having these is also very important. They will come in handy when you have to pick up and discard the mess your little friend makes. You can carry these in your bag or even in your pocket when you go out on a walk with your dog. Treats: Many dogs are motivated by food, and this is why you will need food treats that your Labrador puppy enjoys. After your dog listens to your commands and goes to the right place, give him a treat, so he understands that food comes after he goes to the right place. A leash and collar: This will allow you to show your dog where the right place is. Barrier gates : This is also an essential supply as it will confine your dog to a specific place. Barrier gates make it easier to keep your house floors clean. Pee finder : Finding and cleaning dried pee will help prevent future accidents. You might also want a car seat cover in case you have to travel somewhere with your little friend. An artificial grass pad to train your puppy for the outside. When to start house training your Labrador puppy: On a general note, younger Labrador puppies have very short attention spans. At what age should a lab puppy be potty trained? House training should begin as soon as your Lab puppy arrives at your home. Which is normally at 7 to 9 weeks of age. So, if your little Labrador puppy is a few weeks old, you might begin with basic command words to get familiar with the house routine and also your voice. You can use this time to show your new Lab puppy the areas of your house it is allowed to be in, and close off any part of your house that is off-limits to your dog. The best moments to train your Lab puppy are: After a nap. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:.

Overall, boxers love people and children. As long as they're properly socialized, they get along great with other pets. But boxers do sometimes have aggressive tendencies that need to be kept in check. Same-Sex Aggression The most common problem with aggressive behavior in boxers is territorial and dominance aggression toward other dogs of the same sex. This is especially true with female boxers. Although they generally get along fine with male dogs, female boxers tend to pick fights with other females. Boxers also tend to hold grudges; once one becomes angry with another dog, he might consider that dog to be a lifelong enemy. On-Leash Aggression Boxers need to be exercised regularly; unfortunately, being on-leash sometimes brings out their territorial nature, causing them to behave aggressively toward other dogs they meet. Boxers also sometimes become more protective and defensive of their owners while on leash. A head collar with a loop that goes over the muzzle can give owners more control and help to keep this sort of aggressive behavior in check. In the event that it goes too far, such a collar can help the owner to regain control of a fighting boxer without getting in the middle of the fight. Prey Instinct The boxer was originally bred from crossing a bulldog with a bullenbeisser, which is a German hunting dog. As such, the boxer inherited a strong instinct for catching prey, which leads the breed to display aggression toward small animals such as squirrels, rabbits and birds, and even sometimes larger animals such as sheep and deer. Dealing With Aggression Boxers are highly energetic dogs who require daily walks and other forms of exercise to help them release pent-up energy and stay calm. They are strong-willed and need owners who are both willing and able to be strong, dominant leaders and establish firm boundaries for acceptable behavior. Early socialization with other animals and people can help avoid aggressive tendencies as the boxer gets older. If your boxer shows aggressive tendencies despite your best efforts to contain them, consult a veterinary behavioral expert for help in getting the aggression under control. More Articles. They are known for being very loyal, and that can sometimes turn into aggression. If you are worried that your Boxer may become aggressive or if there are already signs of aggression, there are some things you can do to correct the behavior and help make your Boxer a loving pet. Can Boxers be aggressive? Boxers can be aggressive, but if they are bought from a legitimate breeder and are raised, socialized, and trained properly, they are not likely to be aggressive. Past negative experiences, lack of exercise, and feeling threatened can manifest in aggression, though these issues are easily corrected. If you are considering getting a Boxer and want to know if he or she could become aggressive, be sure to read on to learn more. Poor Breeding Some dogs are bred from animals that are aggressive or have genes that make them more likely to be aggressive. There are also certain health problems that can make a Boxer more likely to become aggressive. Lack of Socialization Dogs that have not been properly socialized with people, children, or animals may become aggressive out of fear or if they are territorial. Lack of Training Some dogs need to be trained to keep their aggression at bay and to learn how to act in certain situations and with new people. If a Boxer is not trained properly, he could become aggressive in new situations and around new people. They may guard their toys, bed, and even people. They can also have food-aggression issues. This problem is known as resource guarding and is a natural reaction in some dogs or can be something they develop over time if they are not cared for properly. Unneutered Male Males are more likely to become aggressive than females, especially if they are unneutered. Boxers that show signs of aggression typically become less aggressive after they are neutered. Past Trauma or Negative Experiences Dogs that have been abused or have had past trauma and negative experiences may become aggressive in situations that remind them of these experiences. Female-Female Aggression Many Boxer females can become aggressive when other females are around. This is especially true if the female is in heat, has puppies, or is pregnant. Overly Protective Nature Boxers are guard dogs, and they tend to be overprotective by nature. This can something show up as aggression if they feel that their family or they themselves are being threatened. High Prey Drive Boxers have a high prey drive, and this can cause them to see smaller dogs, cats, and other animals as prey and act aggressively toward them. This can usually be resolved with proper training. How To Stop Boxer Aggression If your Boxer is showing signs of aggression, the sooner you intervene, the more likely you are to stop the behavior before it gets out of hand. Here are some tips that can help. Create a Safe Place Make sure your dog feels safe. Many dogs show aggression out of fear and confusion. Talk calmly to your dog when he starts to show signs of aggression to distract and calm him. Instead, redirect him and offer positive reinforcement to help keep him calm and let him know his calm behavior is rewarded. Make an appointment with your veterinarian to have a health problem ruled out or treated. Socialize Them Proper socialization is important for every dog breed and especially Boxers. Make sure your dog has plenty of socialization with other pets, animals, and people. You can find trainers who specialize in dealing with aggressive behavior and can help you correct it. As opposed to a costly lawsuit should your dog attack someone, hiring a professional will be money well spent. Your Boxer likely stares at you because he wants to anticipate what you will do next so he can go with you. Boxers bond with their owners quickly, and your Boxer may want to be by your side at all times. If your Boxer is older, he may be staring at you due to vision problems or another disorder. Are Boxers Good With Cats? Boxers can be good with cats as long as they are introduced to them early in life and have plenty of time to socialize with them. When you introduce your Boxer to a cat, always monitor them closely to make sure they get along. Conclusion Boxers are great dogs and make great family pets. They can, however, be aggressive if they are not properly trained and socialized. Related Posts:. No breed description will describe all boxers or will even accurately and totally describe one. However, some traits do apply to many boxers. Boxers tend to be silly, playful dogs who act like puppies for much of their lives. They are clownish dogs who seem to take particular delight in making their human family laugh at their antics. However, their puppy-like behavior is not always a source of amusement for everyone. Boxers love to be with people — as much as possible and as close as possible. They are not an aloof or independent breed. Their social nature and their typically high energy level make them well-suited to joining in family activities. If your boxer needs to be home alone for many hours each day, he will likely need plenty of exercise and mental stimulation when you are home to keep him happy. Boxers cannot be left outside unattended without access to the indoors for any considerable length of time. Not only are they intolerant to heat and cold, but they also have been known to escape yards in an attempt to find their people. Boxers are family dogs in both their social nature and their physical needs. Boxers have a reputation for enjoying the company of children, and, indeed, many of them are quite tolerant around children. Boxers are large and bouncy and are not always the best judges of their size and strength, so special care should be taken with an exuberant boxer around small children. Always keep in mind that rescue dogs often have unknown histories, so it is a good idea to take extra precautions with any rescue dog, including boxers, around young children. Many boxers enjoy playing with other dogs, but their rough style of play and method of approach may be off-putting. Many boxers are selective about which dogs they want to be around, so introductions to new dogs should generally be controlled. Although boxers are not typically an aggressive breed, their enthusiasm and forwardness can escalate into reactive behavior or can trigger undesired responses from other dogs who do not understand them. Boxers are strong, can be stubborn, and can pull hard on their leash if they want something! A boxer is a joyous, funny, athletic dog who loves nothing more than being part of the family. However, boxers are not for everyone. Boxers require special consideration when it comes to the amount of exercise and activity they need, their social nature, their limitations in warm or cold climates, and their often-expensive veterinary care. Most purebred dogs that end up in shelters find themselves there because their people did not like the things about them that were, in fact, typical of their breed. The same traits that make boxers so much fun for one person may make them challenging or frustrating for another. Do your research, and if possible, spend time with some boxers before deciding if the breed is right for you.