half husky half golden retriever puppies for sale

half husky half golden retriever puppies for sale - These dogs are perfect for special needs, families, emotional support, veterans, and more. Our Long Coat German Shepherds look incredible and are bred from some of the best bloodlines originating from Germany. Take a look at the long coat German Shepherd puppies and adult dogs that we currently have available here at Regis Regal. Long Haired German Shepherd Adults For most people it's probably fairly easy to determine what a long coat German Shepherd is - it simply refers to the length of their fur. Whilst a "standard" German Shepherd will traditionally have short fur, long coats are the result of a recessive gene that any dog can carry. It doesn't mean long coats have any problems - far from it, and for many people they are an even more desirable dog than the standard breed German Shepherd. Long haired German Shepherds look incredibly handsome, and if you're happy with the additional effort required in grooming them and keeping their hair in good condition then they're as loyal and obedient as any other German Shepherd. With our private courier service, we can safely deliver your puppy to all fifty states with utmost love and care. More information here on the long-coat puppies we currently have available for sale. What is their Temperament Like? There is no discernible difference between the temperament of a long coat German Shepherd and a normal short coat dog. For a long time they've been unfairly labeled as being difficult, but sadly this really stems from them not being accepted due to falling outside the normal breeding standard. The Long haired German Shepherds we've raised here at our top breeding facility in Illinois. Our specialized trained dogs have gone on to be used as search dogs, rescue dogs, police dogs, service dogs and therapy dogs. There's no reason long coats can't perform as well or better than short coats since they do look quite incredible at the same time! Whilst a long coat can be a far more desirable dog for some people, when it comes to price they can actually work out around the same price, or even cheaper, than a standard or "normal coat" German Shepherd. The dogs we breed and train here at Regis Regal come from some of the best bloodlines in the world. We conduct Schutzhund training to develop desirable traits including confidence, desire to work, and self-control. Inquire about one of our Long Coat German Shepherds If you would like additional information about our prestigious long coat German Shepherds or our available puppies and service dogs for special needs, please contact us at or regisregal gmail. Your name. Margaret O. I could not be happier. A mentally healthy dog is so important. Our little guy came to us in an unexpected unique way. After a previous family was unable to take him, Jeff called us and asked if we were interested in coming out to meet the puppy that same day! They are willing to sit and talk through any questions you have, they give you a lot of information about the breed, and what to expect when you bring your puppy home. Another big plus for us was seeing that the kennels were clean and all the dogs that we saw looked very healthy. Our puppy was the sweetest when he first met us! He ran up to us, showered us in puppy kisses, and was just overall a happy chill little dude. He just had his first vet appointment and was given a clean bill of health! He is sweet, gentle, and such a fast learner! I have never met any dog with this level of intelligence and at such a young age! We have only had him for 6 days and he has settled in so quick and has already learned basic commands. Thank you so much Jeff and Rhonda for our new little addition to our family! When we first went to meet with them and take a peek at Adrian and Barus litter, we liked that they had all the dogs in the home and the home was clean!!! Adrian had a calm temperament as well as the rest of the dogs. Caught on extremely quick w the training and is extremely good with our young grandchildren. We definitely chose the right breeders. Good communication and great canine genetics are obvious! Response from the owner Thank you so much April for the kind words. Rhonda and I try very hard to make things special for our puppy families. Pride and integrity means everything to us. Rhonda takes care of pupies like her own kids! We have 3 of their dogs one male that is the puppy of untox and panja. H gets to play fight likes that and playing with his ball. Rhonda was spectacular to work with, detailed and friendly. She is one of the most intelligent, healthy puppies we have ever owned and her temperament with our family is world class. When we were looking for a puppy we met with Rhonda and could not of been happier. There dogs were so well behaved, stunningly gorgeous and just wanted to be loved. Exactly what my wife and I were looking for. We all no there is never any guarantees in life when it comes to purchasing a puppy, but I can say we have a true champion in our little Bella. She has been a total blessing since we got her. Thanks Rhonda and Jeff!! Response from the owner. Best temperament, easy to train and an absolute sweetheart. However, I have an extraordinary story to share about my young pup. Mila our female puppy has a sense of medical issues. At .I typically experience these attacks once every year or two. At first, I thought maybe I spilled so food or something on my shirt, so I changed my shirt, but she continued. Then a little over an hour later, I had an attack. Mila did not leave my side for the entire time. No matter what way I tried to lay in bed to get comfortable she would move her body to press up against my gallbladder. Normally she is crated at night and does great, no whining or anything.Having her warm body and the slight pressure of her body next to me really actually helped. The next day I was back to normal, and Mila went to her crate for bed no problem. We are a breeder of top, world-class quality German Shepherd puppies of West German bloodlines with impeccable Temperaments and type. If you are looking for a German Shepherd puppy or an adult dog suitable for confirmation, obedience, therapy, assistance dog, search and rescue, K-9 training, schutzhund or for the ever present loyal companion.Occasionally, we do have long coat German Shepherd puppies available as well. All litters are raised in our home, well socialized and each held and cuddled several times a day. The result is a pup that is comfortable around people, children, vehicles and other animals. It is not uncommon for our puppies to be housebroken by the time they leave our house. I have been actively showing and breeding since , and have always had West German lines. I use the pronoun "I", but could not do this without backup from my family. I breed because I love German Shepherds. Quality German Shepherd breeders follow the German rules. With my puppies, I strive to improve this wonderful breed. This is not how I make my living, but how I choose to spend my time. Vollmond's Laro Our German Shepherd puppies are all wormed, given the appropriate shots, and Vet checked before leaving to go to their new families. We also offer puppy foundation training in obedience and Shutzhund training, ring training and show support. Please call for details. Vollmond's Laro is a Karo son out of our own breeding to Vollmond's Eika. We are Proud to say he is a 2nd generation Vollmond dog!! Vollmond's Kai - First Time Swimming For therapy or just exercise, swimming is great for german shepherds. Kai has been swimming to supplement his regular exercise at a terrific new place with an indoor, heated, resistance pool specifically designed for canine therapy and exercise. You can order yours today at or Use order code number Quick Links. Questions about German Shepherd puppies for sale in Illinois? We have answers. How much do your German Shepherd puppies for sale in Illinois cost? Breeder experience and reputation can also be significant factors. Am I limited to local breeders and puppy businesses? How do you screen breeders? We examine German Shepherd breeders in Illinois and puppy businesses in our network on Breeder Standards including background and experience, care and animal wellbeing, facilities, and adoption practices. Why should I choose Uptown Puppies? Nobody would hurt an adorable puppy, right? What is a puppy mill? What is a backyard breeder? Ever browsed German Shepherd for sale in Illinois classified listings and found a suspiciously low-priced pup? Puppy mills are the most sinister sector of the dog business, run by cruel and exploitative criminals who force German Shepherds for sale in Illinois to produce countless litters of sickly and badly socialized pups. That bargain? Do yourself - and the German Shepherd puppies for sale in Illinois - a favor and choose a verified breeder from our network. Can you help me find a specific type of German Shepherd puppy? How does this all work? Just browse our listings of Illinois German Shepherd puppies for sale and you can reserve your pup right there on our site. How do I know I can trust Uptown Puppies? By weeding out the backyard breeders and puppy scammers, we give you peace of mind about the background of your pup. And us? Just check out our reviews - we think they speak for themselves. Are German Shepherds dangerous dogs? Are German Shepherds easy to train? Thankfully, Illinois German Shepherds for sale were bred as working dogs and are one of the easiest breeds to teach. This dog is eager to please, picks up commands quickly, and is great at staying on task.

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half husky half golden retriever puppies for sale - View All Articles in Training When to Start Training Your Pup While training may not be the first thing you think about when collecting your cute new bundle of floof from the breeder, it should certainly be up there on your priority list. Chances are, if you picked a good facility, your puppy will already have a leg up on the training ladder. Either way, the very best way to quickly make your new pet feel at home is to establish the boundaries of their behavior in a firm but fair manner. Take them outside to pee frequently and praise them when they do what you want them to do, but never punish any accidents. Every dog learns at their own speed, and training takes patience. Yet, the rules need to be in place from day one. If you let your pooch sleep on your bed one day but banish them from the bedroom the next, they are going to end up very confused. Routines that are established in these first few weeks will stick with your Berne. After all, these super-intelligent dogs learn fast. Compared with more excited, energetic Doodles, they can be a breeze to handle if you pick the right teaching method. Here are four of the best as recommended by canine experts: Positive Reinforcement Early ideas on dog training focused heavily on the owner asserting dominance over their pet through positive punishment shouting, hitting, and hurting. We have moved far away from these today. Such treatment often backfires, creating an anxious, aggressive dog that is liable to lash out when provoked. Now, most trainers make use of positive reinforcement methods. Instead of reacting to unwanted behaviors, they focus on rewarding the wanted ones. They do this through the use of attention, praise, toys, and treats. The idea is that if the dog associates a particular behavior with a reward, they are more likely to repeat that behavior. A potential issue with this technique is that sometimes bad behavior is its own reward. Say your dog likes to steal food from the counter or escape from the garden. In these instances, a negative punishment removing a favorite toy, treat, or simply your attention is recommended to let them know this is not acceptable. Clicker Training Based on the same principles as positive reinforcement, clicker training is the method most often utilized by doggy trainers. Secondly, it can be used at the exact moment your pup displays the wanted action. In this way, the positive behavior is very clearly marked. Of course, with this method, you first have to train your pal to associate the clicker with a future reward. Do this by encouraging them to obey a command they are already familiar with, using the clicker, and promptly feeding them a treat. With time a link will form between the two. Eventually, the clicker may even become the reward itself — the signal of a job well done for your dog. This desire to mimic as a way of pleasing the leader is a natural behavior among pack animals in the wild. They are given the freedom to engage in dog-like behaviors within reason. Training often occurs off the leash and focuses on promoting actions associated with hunting, defending, and retrieving. Socialization plays a crucial role in mirror training. Owners are encouraged to include their pooch in all aspects of their lives so as to build a strong bond with them. Getting out and about with other dogs is also vital. Pack-animal mentality means that positive behaviors are also acquired this way. Relationship-Based Training As the name suggests, relationship-based training is also highly focused on the bond between pet and owner. The idea is that any training built on a solid and trusting relationship is likely to be far more effective. You are looking to learn everything you can about your pup and their specific needs. The aim is to be in tune with their emotions, be able to accurately interpret their body language, and understand what motivates them. Positive reinforcement methods are then used to shape behavior. At the same time, the environment is closely controlled to set the dog up for success. So, for instance, you try not to leave temptation in their way if it can be avoided. This training takes a little longer than other kinds but can offer more success in the long run. Training Items You Absolutely Need for Your Doodle Depending on the method you opt for, you will need a few tools to guarantee success. For instance, with each one, you will require reward items such as treats and toys. Here are some toys that will work for Bernies. Aside from that, you will want a good quality collar or harness and leash for outside training. Opt for a harness if your puppy likes to pull. These are generally better for bigger, more powerful dogs such as Bernedoodles, anyway, as they give you a little more control. Many owners also choose to crate train their pup. This has a number of advantages, including giving your dog a place that is all theirs, a place where they can feel safe and secure. Check out our dedicated articles on leash training and crate training for more specific advice on each one. However, it also increases the likelihood of them snatching food from tables and counters if not closely supervised. When they obey, offer pets and praise, and they will soon get the hang of it. Avoid mixed messages by never feeding your pup from the table. Jumping While Bernedoodles tend to be cautious with strangers, the opposite is true with those they love. They may demonstrate their enthusiasm by jumping up to say hello — not ideal if your Bernie is on the larger side. It can be challenging for owners who appreciate all the loving to discourage such behavior, but not everyone enjoys being sent flying. While the natural response might be to push your pup down, they will likely view this as part of the game. Instead, the best thing to do is withdraw your attention. Turn away from your dog without a sound and cross your arms over your chest. If they keep jumping up, then simply turn around and leave the room. If you are having problems with a noisy hound, try to identify what might lie underneath the behavior rather than simply trying to control it. Barking can signal an array of issues — everything from boredom to anxiety. So, pay attention to when it occurs. Bernedoodles, being highly sociable dogs, are prone to separation anxiety, so if your pup is disturbing the neighbors when you are away from the house, this is likely the problem. Find out what you can do about separation anxiety here. Early and thorough socialization is the best preventative measure for this. Pulling on the Leash A common issue among most young pups, pulling on the leash can be a serious problem with Bernedoodles, though — especially when they are on the larger side. This behavior usually occurs simply because your pup is excited to be outside, and that enthusiasm translates to them wanting to get to the dog park as quickly as they can. Mastering walking on the leash mostly just takes practice. You need to be firm and not let them get away with doing it at any time. If your Berne starts to get ahead of you, simply stop, make them sit if you can, and begin to walk again only when they are a bit calmer. See here for more leash training tips and tricks. Digging Just like barking, digging tends to be a symptom of an underlying problem like boredom. The thing with Doodles is that incredible intelligence makes them less likely to be satisfied with merely hanging out in the yard all day. They need to be kept both physically and mentally stimulated. If they are not… bring on the destructive behaviors! Digging is a firm doggy favorite. The trick is to divert their attention to something else. If they are getting enough walks and plenty of affection, try throwing a few toys into the mix. Puzzle toys have been designed specifically to keep clever canines entertained for longer. Finally, try giving your dog a designated space in the garden to dig far away from the fence and your favorite plants and flowers. Biting and Mouthing While common in young pups, especially when teething, aggressive biting is not a Bernedoodle trait. Herding dogs such as Bernes might nip to get you to go where they want to go a behavior they can easily be trained out of. Still, if your pup is getting a little vicious for no reason, you could have a problem. If it is just puppy teething — not fun in any way when they are having at you with those needle-sharp teeth — consider investing in a high-quality teething toy such as one of these. They could be feeling particularly anxious about something — a new person or other kinds of changes in the household. Alternatively, they might be sick and in pain. If you are confident that they are getting enough nutrition for their weight and life stage, chances are your hound is just looking for something fun to chew on and taking it to the extreme. Again, chew toys are the best answer. They will keep your pet occupied and help them to fulfill their natural instinct for mouthing. This is what keeps their teeth clean and their jaws healthy, after all. The issue should resolve itself in no time at all. Especially because most breeders begin this process long before you pick your new puppy up. Just keep things consistent, and you will get there fairly quickly and painlessly. A few things you can do are: take your pup out to the place you want them to go on a regular basis. Designate a specific command and offer lots of love, hugs, and praise when they do what you ask of them. Never punish any accidents — this could actually set your dog back. Some owners recommend crate training for puppies who are having a slightly more difficult time getting the hang of it all. When To Get Professional Help If your pup starts or continues to display behavior issues such as aggression, food aggression, excessive barking, destructive chewing, mounting, or separation anxiety, it is likely that he will need special attention to address them. The best way to deal with Doodle behavior issues is to hire a trainer, or a behaviorist to come to your home for a one-on-one consult. Not only will you learn the skills you need to be successful, but your puppy will learn incredible manners and behaviors as well! See Also: Click the image Amy helps you set up your home, get your family all on the same page and teaches you exactly what to do the second your puppy arrives for optimal training success. You can also schedule LIVE! Office Hours for one-on-one help with Amy and participate in weekly online puppy classes right in your living room! Need help with training? We recommend this on top of group classes. By the way, the skills they teach works for any dog at any age. Bernedoodles, with their incredible intelligence and people-pleasing manner, are relatively easy to train compared to other dogs. Keep things light, fun, and interesting, and you should be able to teach your pal to do just about anything within reason. How do you train a Bernedoodle puppy? There are various training methods. The one you subscribe to will be the one that works best for you and your pup. How do you discipline a Bernedoodle? Discipline is a tricky business in the world of canines. Experts agree that shouting and hitting simply do not work in the long run. Bernedoodles are awesome dogs, and you will never regret adding one to your household. However, they do take a fair bit of looking after. If used properly, they can be a wonderful safe haven for your pet. At Premier Doodles, we start this process early on and all of our puppies from weeks will have multiple crates available in their kennel kept in our master bedroom. They learn what we call a Positive Conditioned Emotional Response PCER which means they come to learn that the crate is a great place to be and have to train this. The crate should be big enough for your pet to stand up, lay down and turn around. Don't worry about dividers as most all of our bernedoodles are great in the crate. Should accidents begin to appear on one side of the crate you'll have to creatively reduce the amount of space they have inside the crate. IMPORTANT NOTE: you will need to purchase two crates, one at the back door with a connected x-pen or other type of portable fencing that is clipped onto the crate to make a small play area, and the other next to your bed if you want maximum success. We have a YouTube channel called Premier Doodles where we have a short video showing what this setup looks like. The crate should be used to safely confine your pet when you are away from home, at night and for short periods of time when you are unable to watch them. We do not recommend keeping any type of collar on your pet while in the crate or in your home.It is important that from the very beginning, you never use your crate to punish your pet. You must make it a positive experience from the start. We want to create a PCER. You most definitely can confine your pet for short periods of time when they are misbehaving, but you never want to place your pet in there in a harsh or negative manner. If your pet develops a fear or dislike to their crate, it can be a very difficult situation to turn around. The crate should be a safe haven for your pet. It is an area that they should be able to go to and feel secure and comfortable. Use softer chew toys as they are more quiet at night time especially while you're sleeping. This includes bedding. We will attempt to put old towels or perhaps even an old sheet in my dogs crate but if they start to chew them, out they come. It is not worth the risk to have a pet ingest something that literally can kill them or cost a hefty price to have surgically removed. We usually keep our pets in their crate at night until they are able to hold their potty all night and they understand that we sleep at night, we don't "party". We want our dogs in the bedroom at night so we will then use a baby gate to keep them in there with us at night. They are typically crated during the day while we are gone until they are approximately 2 years of age. That is the average for dogs to mature especially bernedoodles. This may seem like a long time, but it is well worth the patience. Dogs that are well socialized are a pure pleasure to be around. They are far more "stable" than an un-socialized pet. They are much less likely to get themselves into trouble, which could ultimately get you into "big" trouble. This couldn't be further from the truth. They should always be socialized with safe, healthy dogs that are tolerant of obnoxiouspuppies. It is a common misconception that a lot of people believe that in order to have a "protective" dog, you must keep it away from people. You must praise or encourage inappropriate behavior, i. In reality, a dog that is well socialized is every bit as likely to alert you, or perhaps even defend you in the face of danger. The critical difference is: An un-socialized dog is going to assume that every single person, child etc. They have a much higher ability to "perceive" what is a true threat than the unfortunate un-social dog. The un-socialized pet is actually one that is running on fear of the "unknown". The reality is this: You should be getting a pet for a "pet". They should be a well-loved, properly cared for member of your family. To get a "pet" solely for "protection" is usually a recipe for disaster. We all can take comfort in the fact that all dogs usually alert us to something "different" in or around the house. That in itself is a huge deterrent to someone who is up to no good. To rely on a pet to keep us totally safe from harm, is not fair to the dog, nor should it be "their'' responsibility alone. A final note: To allow a dog to pick and choose what they perceive as a threat, to not socialize your dog, to not properly train and provide care for your dog, to not allow your dog to be a member of the family, is almost ALWAYS a disaster in the making. Insurance companies, Boarding Kennels, Hotels, Apartments, etc. There are certain Breeds of dogs that are not "welcome". There are no "bad" breeds in my opinion, but unfortunately, there are literally thousands of "bad" owners. Expose your pet to all different types of people, noises, environments etc. Do not force your pet to accept strangers, nor do you want to coddle fearful behavior. Do be mindful that your new puppy is not fully vaccinated until 16 weeks of age. Until then, you can still get them out and in car rides and with a rubbermaid tote can put into a cart at Lowe's and let them hear and see new people. Do yourself a favor and socialize your pet. You and they will be glad you did! They need to be corrected the instant the unwanted behavior occurs. They live in a world of cause and effect. Dogs live in the NOW. Corrections have to happen in the NOW. The quickest way to teach your dog that you are not trustworthy is to punish your dog with physical violence or to reprimand him for some action that he is not presently engaged in. Abuse is never acceptable, hitting a dog is never acceptable. You cannot use fear as a means of making an animal behave; it doesn't work. Showing an animal strong leadership and giving rules is not the same thing as instilling fear and administering inappropriate punishment. Never correct an animal out of anger of frustration. When you try and correct your dog out of anger, you are usually more out of control than your dog is. You are fulfilling your own needs, not the animals. Negative attention is better than no attention at all This is something that most parents can relate to as well. Whether this is laying down napping, playing with appropriate toys, sitting before being allowed outside, greeting people, etc. My number 1 rule for solving behavioral problems is to NOT reinforce them. Extinguish them or better yet work to not let them creep up into their pattern of life. Simply put, if your dog is acting out inappropriately and you react to it, you are very likely reinforcing that behavior. You may be reacting negatively, but you are reacting. However; if you re-direct your pet to something appropriate and then reward them for that, you will usually end up extinguishing the behavior that you do not want. For example: If your dog is jumping on you and you scream, yell, push or otherwise acknowledge the pet, you are reinforcing that behavior. Have you ever seen a "sane" dog repeatedly attack a telephone pole for no reason???? Having said that, you must also use common sense. If "Fido" is chewing on an electrical cord, you can not simply ignore it. What you should do is very quickly but calmly get up and with a sharp "NO" correct the pup and then immediately re-direct the pup to something appropriate. Reward for correct behavior. But it doesn't have to be! And with our Premier bernedoodles you'll find them to be one of the easiest puppies to housebreak because we have already started this process well before you bring your new puppy home. The following tips are helpful, if followed, in making a great and fun time less stressful for you and your pup! Once your puppy is a little bit older, they almost always can hold their potty overnight. The crate should be big enough for your puppy to standup, turnaround, and lay down. Our bernedoodle puppies do great in a Midwest XL wire crate. Puppies should be fed 3 times per day, at the very least they need to be fed 2 times per day. Please talk to your Veterinarian about your abilities to feed your pet and follow their advice. We personally do not recommend "paper'' training a puppy. No matter how you look at it, it is giving the puppy permission to use the bathroom in the house. It, of course, is a personal choice and some people's work schedule does not allow for anything different. Just keep in mind, it will be more difficult to change the "way of thinking" for the older puppy and you need to be patient Young puppies need to potty much more frequently than older puppies. Take that into consideration when housebreaking. We typically take our puppies out every minutes the first week after coming home, whether we think they need to go or not. This will be increased to hours after a few weeks. The first order of business should always be to potty when first going outside. Take your puppy to the area you want them to go and give them just a short amount of time to take care of business. When they are outside we start using potty commands Go Potty for 1 and Go Poo Poo for 2 at about 4 weeks of age and we even start using these phrases the first weeks. We repeat these phrases until they posture to do their business, at which time we shut up. As soon as they are done like the millisecond! We also do this in the wee hours of the morning but without this excitement and never with the lights on. Then take them back out to the potty area and try again. Once they have pottied, they have earned some time to play, explore, etc. Puppies are like small children, they need to be watched at all times, they need to learn right from wrong and they need a chance to be puppies! Get the puppy outside immediately while somebody else is cleaning up the mess. We use OdoBan to take all odors out so that it does not become a place that smells like an area to relieve themselves. You must use common sense when taking water away. If it is hot, the puppy has been playing hard, etc. You can also give ice cubes. Make sure you take your puppy outside right before you go to bed. If they immediately start crying you need to ignore them - they are seeking attention, and giving it to them even negative is teaching them that "this is the way to get attention". Place the puppy down and let them take care of business. Again we are saying quietly "Go Potty". Once they've gone potty, quietly praise them "Good potty" and take them right back to their crate. Do not play with your puppy, or otherwise encourage them to "wake" up, or that very well may be their incentive to "party" at 3 a. Once your puppy has developed a little more control, you will find that they start sleeping throughout the night in no time. In the beginning, they physically cannot hold their potty all night, once they can however; it is not in their best interest to get up in the middle of the night unless it has been made "rewarding"to them. We always get our puppies out immediately after eating and drinking. If after 15 minutes they don't go potty we will bring back inside and place in a crate. About 5 minutes later we will take back outside and repeat this process until they have relieved themselves. This is so common that most puppies will go through this at some point in their early part of their life. The best thing you can do is to try to avoid doing those things that seem to bring this behavior about. This is normal. If this behavior continues best to have a veterinarian check for a UTI. Here are some tips to help: Use a crate when you cannot supervise. Put his crate near a door allowing him to get outside quickly, potentially avoiding an accident. Keep quiet but relaxed. Ignore his behavior. Build up gradually to new things. Do basic obedience training. Make it fun and confidence building. Using lots of obedience commands and praises helps distract. Take him out regularly to do his business so his bladder will not build up pressure every 15 minutes. Do not go straight to his crate when entering a room. Allow him to calm down first, before letting him out. Just ignore the dog and walk past. When you go to the crate to let him out do so quietly. When out in the yard, do not call him up to you but walk slowly around with him. Give him a command to urinate and praise him calmly using voice only when he does. Do everything slowly and work at making your body language calm and unconcerned. Keep verbal volume low. Get down at ground level. Or sit on a low chair. Be non-threatening. Spend time sitting with him by your side on a leash. Take him for walks where he can gradually be exposed to the situations that trigger his urination. Ask friends to practice no touch, no talk, no eye contact around him. Avoid situations and people that you cannot control until your dog is learning to control himself and gain confidence. Submissive urination can be annoying, but exhibiting your frustration to your dog only makes it worse way worse as this is the very reason why they will sometimes do it. With a little planning and adjusting your attitude, you can minimize and overcome the problem which will disappear anyways but mine as well help along the line. However,there are rules that must be followed. If you ignore the rules, you should not play at all. If played properly, these games are some of the best anti-aggression exercises you can practice with your dog. Rule 1 While playing tug-of-war, most dogs will make a mistake and grab fingers or a hand instead of the toy. Because we are playing a game and feel that the mouth or bite was accidental, people tend to ignore it. This is a BIG mistake! If you allow rough housing or tug-of-war, you MUST never allow the dog to mouth or bite for any reason. The very instant the dog's tooth or teeth touch you or your clothing, you must immediately reprimand the dog and STOP playing. Dogs are very capable of controlling their teeth. Rule 2 The dog should never be allowed to initiate the play session or grab for the toy without invitation. Only when you give a command such as "take it". Especially with puppies, if you allow the dog to grab things without invitation, then you can find yourself playing while trying to get dressed, put on socks etc. You start the game, you end the game. Rule 3 It is always a good idea to stop the game every 30 seconds or so. When you stop the game, give your dog the command to "give or drop it". Make your dog sit or down. Praise and release. If you want to continue to play, give the dog the command to "take it" and continue. If the dog does not respond to the commands to give, you must immediately take the toy away and stop playing. This would clearly tell you that your dog either does not understand the command, or you are absolutely NOT in control. If you are not in control, you should never play this game with your dog. What may be a "soft" bite to you very well may not be to a child or an elderly person. When bites occur in play, in greeting or as an accident, we tend to ignore or excuse it dogs are very capable of controlling their teeth. What happens is the dog learns that they can act recklessly around us. We have taught them that there is no need to exercise caution around us or be respectful. They learn that biting is acceptable. Dogs do not do this to each other. They don't rationalize or make excuses. Biting and disrespect are swiftly and effectively reprimanded and it very rarely, if ever, happens again. Puppies are going to mouth you.We want them to learn an appropriate ABI or in other words how much force can they bite down that is deemed acceptable ie doesn't hurt. We need to first work with this component and then work on reducing the frequency. But bite force first. As you're playing with your puppy just keep screeching "OUCH" when it's too hard and at the moment they cease or bite softly praise them big time. This will go back and forth and forth and back like a ping pong match well at least played by two competent players! This will not be a one session deal. This will take weeks and weeks of being very consistent in your "OUCH" every time they either bite you or your clothes too hard. We do want to promote gentle bite behavior as this reinforces the bonding and teaches them an appropriate ABI which is imperative for producing a stable adult dog. DO NOT take the mouthing behavior away but lets just shape it so that the puppy knows when it's too hard. If your puppy is clearly highly energized and not responding then the play session is over and you walk away. That's it. Never ever hit or smack your dog to correct or thump them on the head as this will only produce head shy dogs. Remember…It is natural for dogs to bite, it must be understood that biting human flesh is the problem and will never be tolerated when it's too hard. The good news is that puppy mouthing behavior aka puppy biting almost always goes away between months even if you let it go. We just prefer the process of teaching boundaries early on while still allowing for some gentle mouthing behaviors. Just remember this will take a LONG time and will make up a big part of your early puppy training. Remember, dogs repeat behaviors that are in some way, shape or form rewarding to them. If you can remove the reward negative punishment , the behavior usually will decrease and then disappear. You need to figure out what the "reward" is and then remove it. Obviously, some behavior will not be able to be extinguished. For example, if the dog enjoys rolling in feces or mud, chewing, barking or anything that in and of itself is rewarding and you cannot "remove" it, it will continue. Yes there are some more invasive ways to extinguish these behaviors thru negative punishment e-collars, putting dog feces in holes being dug in the backyard and filling it, etc. Extinction can work great for nuisance behaviors such as barking, whining for attention, jumping, begging, controlling play, etc. If you attempt to use extinction, be prepared for the behavior to escalate before it starts to decrease. For example: If your dog is used to jumping on you and receiving attention and you decide to ignore it, the dog will become confused - "Hey.Very often, they will try harder to get the desired attention. If you stick to your guns and refuse to acknowledge the dog, the behavior will usually decrease and eventually stop. If you pay attention or reward it even one time or even slightly, it will be all the more difficult to extinguish in the future. The only thing you will accomplish is to have the dog work harder to get what they want. The type of reaction depends on the individual personality of the puppy, his overall resilience, and your reaction. We do fear recovery response training during the first 8 weeks to make sure they have a fast recovery to new novel noises and objects and situations. The how and when of fear periods also depends on the individual puppy, so you may or may not see it in your puppy as described. Generally speaking, puppies go through two potential fear periods during puppyhood. The first fear phase comes when the puppy is just months of age. This also coincides with a very critical socialization period. Your puppy is coming into a new home, leaving behind his mother, and litter mates, and is being introduced to a new family. What you have to do is just keep everything FUN! Puppies look to you as a security buffer and want to see how you react in a situation. Carry super yummy treats with you everywhere you go. Ask people to give your puppy a treat. Give treats with lots of praise in situations where you see your puppy is a little unsure. Carry a favorite toy with you and play squeaky toys or tug of war. This helps a puppy feel more comfortable. It is important to be upbeat and excited about new things and encourage your puppy to feel the same way. The second fear phase comes later in puppyhood. These puppies normally become worried about novel things, or you may see your puppy express fear over something that never bothered them before. The key to this phase is to not force your puppy into situations, and just like before, remember to keep it fun. Instead, give a few treats, talk to him, and then YOU walk up to statue and touch it. YouTube is littered with videos of dogs being forced to interact or even being chased! This type of interaction can be seriously distressing for your puppy. Remember to keep it fun and positive, and he will move through the phase without any problems. A More Thorough Response.There are windows of time when certain types of behaviors e. We have done our part, but this training must continue long after they go to their new homes. Fear-based periods can include fearful responses to noises, dogs barking, music, really anything that could be interpreted as a threat. Although dogs have been domesticated for a long time, they still carry DNA from their wolf lineage and that includes protective puppy behaviors such as quickly scampering to cover when a threat is perceived. Between months these types of responses can be manifested by cowering behavior but can also include barking, growling, ears back and tail down, and in some cases just a bit of unsureness about the stimulus causing this reaction. Keep in mind that these behaviors manifest from a genetic basis that likely came with wild populations of dog ancestors e. Well, there are several key socialization periods as well and the first one occurs during the first 8 weeks, and this is when puppies begin to bond and trust their human family. Without a thorough socialization program, you will be battling that on top of puppy-fear based responses at a whole new level. Trust me fear-based training does make a difference when started in the first 8 weeks and research corroborates this and that early puppy training the first 8 weeks helps to temper these responses, but every puppy is different, and every home and environmental conditions are different as well. Just keep all of this in mind during the training period that these genetically programmed responses helped the puppies survive before becoming household pets that we have today. Unfortunately, they carry the genetic baggage from their past ancestors, and we just need to work around this. Understanding this is the first step toward puppy training… Ok so what to do!? Is there hope? Absolutely and the above information just sets the stage for how to train the puppies and help them thru these two fear-based periods. This can be extremely overwhelming and can manifest itself in many ways wanting to be with you all the time, depressed immune responses, etc. The main thing is to use the first fear-based period between weeks to absolutely bond to your new puppy and make sure they feel secure, protected, and not frightened. Many families have young kids and although they were raised with kids of all ages this first 8—week fear-based period can kick in and when chased by a young child, grabbed, pulled, or petted and handled can induce a fear-based response that may be hard to detect at first but can slowly creep in. Make sure that whoever is interacting with the puppy is doing so in a very friendly and non-threatening way. But remember kids can induce a fear-based response as can other dogs during this initial fear-based period. Allow the puppy to initiate contact with new people. Early traumatic experiences to a hostile child or dog can have a lifelong impact on the puppy and in many cases, this can cause permanent behavioral changes and why we do not advocate for dog parks or other situations where lots of dogs are together without proper supervision. You can also use a Bluetooth speaker and occasionally play novel noises during the day search in YouTube for Puppy Culture noises. During these very positive training episodes you can again play novel noises but very brief and have lots of treats ready to redirect their behavior. Such as they are fearful of going into the back seat. Your job is to create a positive experience by getting into the back seat. Maybe get some raw meat and put into a Ziplock bag and let your dog smell it. Then if they put one foot up onto the back seat treat them. Then two feet only gets a treat etc. Keep it fun. But you must be abundantly patient during this time. Dogs that routinely go thru basic obedience training school during this time seem to fly thru it with flying colors, but patience and praise is the key. The bottom line is that training and socialization is going to happen the rest of their lives. Certainly, it gets easier! Your investment now will have a lifelong impact on the well-being of your fur baby. February 7, In search of a new forever best friend? Not sure what puppy breed works best for you and your family? When it comes to having the best of both worlds, Bernedoodles are it! These mixed breed designers pups were bred to be the perfect companion dog and quickly rose up in the ranks of popular puppy breeds over the last two decades! How do you know if a Bernedoodle is a right fit for you and your family? A Brief Background on Bernedoodles! Sherry Rupke of Swissridge Kennels claims to be the very first breeder that purposely cross-bred two purebreeds: Standard Poodle and Bernese Mountain Dog. Since this breed is only approximately two decades old, the American Kennel Club still does not consider the Bernedoodle a purebred. Nevertheless, the rise in popularity has also led to many more breeders producing these pups. If you were interested in bringing a Bernedoodle home, while there are many reputable breeders that specialize in these pups, you can also find these pups in shelters or rescue groups that focus on Poodles and Bernese Mountain Dogs, to potentially find these mixed pups! What are Bernedoodle Breed Characteristics? When it comes to range, few breeds can beat the Bernedoodle! These pups come in a variety of sizes and coat colors. Bernedoodles come in a few different sizes: tiny, miniature, medium, and standard. They can range in weight from ten pounds in the tiny category all the way to ninety pounds in the standard category. Along with variety in sizes, their coats can be within a range from completely black, black and white, black and brown, or tri-colored with patches of either black, white, or brown. Probably the most common coat and markings people seek when looking for a Bernedoodle puppy is the tri-color variety that is in closer resemblance to the Bernese Mountain Dog. Depending on which side of their genetic makeup your pup takes after, some Bernedoodle pups coats can be curly, or wavy like the Standard Poodle and not shed as much making them a good candidate for parents who suffer from allergies. Other Bernedoodle pups can have straighter coats that have a tendency to shed more and are not hypoallergenic. What are Bernedoodles Personalities like? The Puppy Academy student, Hamilton! Goofy, smart, loyal to their families, and friendly, these pups have the best personality traits from both sides! Most Bernedoodles parents pick these pups because of their good demeanors and temperaments. Your puppy may lean toward the Standard Poodle side, depicting traits of high intelligence, hard-working, and loyal. Or your puppy can lean toward the Bernese Mountain Dog which is good-natured, confident, and affectionate. Some Bernese Mountain Dogs can be stubborn, in particular during their adolescent phase, and a bit aloof or standoffish toward strangers. With good basic obedience and early socialization, any Bernedoodle can make a great fit for a family and develop friendly demeanors toward new people. While these pups are considered to be working dogs and do require daily exercise, they are also content with hanging out with you at home. Moderate exercises such as one to two longer walks, with play sessions in between, a day is sufficient to burn off energy and keep your pup content! Tiny and Mini Bernedoodles are better equipment for urban environment living whereas Medium to Standard sized Bernedoodles would need more space to exercise and play. No matter the size of your Bernedoodle puppy, they are going to need adequate exercise, which is why they do really well with active families! Tiny and Mini Bernedoodles will require a bit less activity and can adapt to tighter living spaces that come with urban environments such as apartments or condos. As for Medium to Standard-sized Bernedoodles which are taller and wider and can grow upwards of ninety pounds, they may be bumping into more coffee tables and have trouble fitting in the same hallway as you in smaller dwellings! For all sizes, access to either a fenced-in yard or a nearby park you can take them to is ideal for this breed! How to Care for Your Bernedoodle Puppy! When it comes to caring for your new Bernedoodle puppy, start off by scheduling a first veterinarian visit within the first week of bringing your puppy home! Like many large breed working dogs, Bernedoodle may suffer from joint dysplasia. Bernese Mountain Dogs have been known to suffer blood disorders, some cancers, and progressive retinal atrophy. Generally, Bernedoodles are healthy and sturdy especially if they come from a reputable breeder. General care for your Bernedoodle puppy will include brushing their teeth to avoid tooth decay, gum disease, and bad breath. Floppy ears means they may be susceptible to ear infections so regularly check and clean them to avoid these from happening. Because their coat types can vary, depending on your puppy, if they have a curly coat you may need to frequently brush them to avoid matting. We recommend that you take your puppy to a professional groomer every few months to get their fur trimmed. The Puppy Academy student, Cali! Create a Daily Puppy Training Schedule Bernedoodle puppies are smart and easily trained but they can have a stubborn streak as they get into their adolescence. Creating early structure at home can help mitigate this stubbornness by establishing daily routines your puppy can expect and also establish you as leader. Since Bernedoodles are made up of two intelligent hard-working breeds, basic obedience training with food positive reinforcement will benefit their behavioral growth! Socialize Your Bernedoodle Puppy with People, Children, and Other Pets Bernedoodles have friendly dispositions and make great family dogs, however, they can be standoffish to new people as they get older. Use Play to Help Train Them Tap into their playful nature and use your playtime sessions together to teach good manners! For example, use Fetch to teach your Bernedoodle how to come to you, Drop-it to give the toy back, then ask them to sit to teach polite manners as they learn to wait until you toss the toy again for them to get. Although Bernedoodles love to work, they sometimes need a bit more motivation! This can come with the aid of food rewards, and providing variation to their training routines to keep them engaged. Enrolling your puppy in training classes, or working with them by yourself at home using a program like our online puppy school will give you a plan to follow with basic training routines to teach your Bernedoodle good manners, as well as keep challenging them along the way so they never get bored, and advance their skillset! Did you recently bring home a Bernedoodle puppy? Are you still planning and not sure what breed fits your lifestyle? Let us know in the comments! Check out these blogs related to puppy training and more! We respect your privacy. Unsubscribe at anytime. Therefore, this article is dedicated to establishing some Bernedoodle training ground rules to make training as smooth for both you and your dog. Even though they are designer dogs, they are not meant to be trained for dog shows. If you like partying, you can have your Bernedoodle accompany you. If you like lying around, you can have your Bernedoodle accompany you. The breed is moderately active. Therefore, they can take on any activity you would want them to take on, as long as you give them enough rest. Since a Bernedoodle will always want to accompany you, it is best to train them according to your schedule and lifestyle. If you lead a super active lifestyle, we suggest you train your dog to be docile in the outdoor environment. However, if you like to stay at home, you can teach them basic household chores such as bringing a towel, etc. Try not to put too many irrelevant commands in their minds because their goofy minds might end up getting confused. Train Them Early Train them early to reap the fruits in the long run. Bernedoodles tend to get too comfortable in their surroundings and, as quick learners, adapt to habits in no time. Before getting a puppy, we suggest you plan a mini-vacation for the first week of your companionship. You can devote this first week to bond with your Bernedoodle puppy and training them diligently. Teach them a few obedience commands right when you get them. When a puppy is given too much time to themselves before training, they pick up naturally bad habits and are generally crate trained. Therefore, they get stuck learning only the basic commands for most of their life. However, if you train your puppy early, they will adopt a curious and adventurous mind. Therefore, they will learn how to do advanced tricks and abbey special commands in no time. After all, a Bernedoodle is a companion dog and will adapt to the way you live. Therefore, if you live a train dedicated to active training, they will live that way too. However, if you get lazy with training, they will slack off in picking up commands. Always Use Positive Reinforcements Dogs are sensitive to your behavior — so tread carefully. Something to be careful about — not only with Bernedoodles is how sensitive they can be towards your behavior. If you show them anger — they will either reciprocate it or feel stressed about your negative emotion. Dogs — like humans — cannot learn and perform while they are under stress. Therefore, it is best to make them feel welcome during their training session. Many dog trainers in the past used to punish dogs for not performing the desired command. However, doing that to a Bernedoodle can lead to anxiety and long-term bonding issues. The best way to train a Bernedoodle is to use positive reinforcements. Positive reinforcements are the act of awarding your dog for good behavior instead of punishing him for bad ones. Positive reinforcements allow the dog to create a stronger bond with you. Moreover, it allows the dog to be happy with his training sessions instead of dreading them. Laser-Sharp Focus Dogs get distracted easily, but they will not learn any complex commands unless they can focus. Much like humans, dogs need to be idle to focus on the task at hand. Whether you want to teach your dog new commands or want them to stay quiet for a while, they cannot do it until they are focused. The best way to teach your Bernedoodle to focus is to teach them the sit and stay command combination. Once your dog knows how to sit on command, move a little away from him and continue commanding him to sit. Add the stay command and slowly increase the duration of each stay session. When your dog knows how to stay until further notice, they will learn how to do nothing even when there might be some distractions around. Unless the dog learns not to do anything, he will never learn how to stay focused and learn new tricks. Take Them Outdoors — Learn from Experiences Outdoors is the perfect place for your dog to learn many visual cues and boost their sensory development. When you take your dog outdoors, two things happen — they interact with the world around them other than you, and they get physical exercise. When a dog gets to interact with a world other than you and your house, they learn several visual cues. Moreover, being outdoors with your dog is the perfect opportunity for you to gauge how he responds to other animals, strangers, and children. Most Bernedoodles are likely to be friendly and docile with other animals and strangers. Therefore, you will not have to make them undergo extensive training. However, some might get aggressive and will need specialized training to be friendly. Being outdoors also gives the dog the physical stimulation it needs to go about his day properly. If dogs have too much pent-up energy in them, they tend to develop destructive and aggressive behavior. Give Them Mental Games to Play Physical stimulation is important, but so is mental stimulation, which is why brain training for your dog is vital. How well your dog is mentally stimulated makes a huge difference in how well he can be trained. However, the same is true too. The more mentally stimulated the dog, the more intelligence he is likely to develop. The more intelligent the dog, the easier it will be to train him. Bernedoodles, in general, tend to be highly intelligent dogs — therefore, they like to be mentally stimulated and like to learn new things every other day. If a Bernedoodle is not adequately mentally stimulated, he will become sad and aggressive. The best way to mentally stimulate your Bernedoodle to keep his mind sharp enough for rigorous training is simple. You can get your dog to try a new command every three days. This will give them enough challenge to feel stimulated but not too much to overwhelm and distress them — which brings up the next ground rule. Training can be very difficult for your dog to wrap his head around. Therefore, while continuous training sessions are vital, it is necessary to keep each session short. Therefore, it is best to keep them happy about training for only minutes a stretch and let them imbibe the commands you teach them. An overworked dog will end up feeling too tired to obey the commands they have learned. Therefore, the best way to keep them from burning out is to teach consistently but gradually. If you are teaching the basic sit command to your dog, make sure you only make a few repetitions in one go. Too many repetitions will make your dog resist the training and resent the next session. Allow your dog at least two days to learn a command as simple as sit. Reinforce their training with the first few repetitions and slowly do away with the treats once they start to get the hang of the command — even if it takes a few days. Bernedoodles are companion dogs and love to spend all their time with their family. However, they are also very sensitive and need to learn how to be alone at an early age. If your dog is used to being with you at all times as a puppy, not having you around for even a short duration can be a cause of significant distress and sadness for them. When your puppy is only in his socializing stage, make sure you give him time to himself. Therefore, he will learn to feel comfortable in your absence. The best way to do so is to let the puppy move around in your house while you stay out of their sight for a while. Begin with 10 minutes of solitude, and you can gradually increase the time to hours at a stretch. This resonates with the ground rule of training your Bernedoodle in accordance with your lifestyle. If you need to go out to work for most of the day, train your puppy to learn your schedule. When you return home, make sure you spoil him with a lot of treats. This will let the dog understand that even if you leave them alone for a while, you will come back and shower him with love when you return. Use the Leash Wisely The leash is the first and last control you have over your dog. Therefore, it is important to use it accurately. Your dog will learn to associate the leash with training and walking, which should induce excitement in him. You must never use a leash to get strict or punish a dog. Otherwise, he will associate the leash with negativity. Dogs tend to associate places and objects with emotions. Therefore, once they have associated the leash with negativity, they will never be happy to be on a leash even while training and walking. Using a leash while training your dog is very important. This is especially true for Bernedoodles because even as intelligent dogs, they tend to be very distracted. If your dog is not on a leash while training, it will become difficult to keep him in one place. You can start walking your dog on a leash and teach him to stay at your heel. Once you are confident enough that your dog will not run off towards distractions and will listen to you if you call him, you can try walking him without the leash as well. However, the transformation from with to without a leash should be done very slowly and carefully. It is best to start the transformation within the confines of your home so that your dog will still be in reach if he runs off. However, their loyalty can cause problems when not trained properly. However, mixed with Poodle traits, the dog might not have any chill. If your dog is also aggressive in nature, he is likely to be too protective. This leads to them being suspicious of anyone who comes to your house. They might even have a tendency to bite. Therefore, you need to teach him the boundary between loyal and aggressively loyal. Loyalty is an inept trait in Bernedoodles. Therefore, you have to focus on training him not to be aggressive to anyone in your house. The answer is not to tie him up when someone visits — that will only make him more aggressive. You must make sure the dog is comfortable with people entering your house. To do so, you can walk your dog on a leash to the door when guests arrive. When your guest arrives, give the sit command and allow the guest to give him a treat — but only if the dog is sitting and not being aggressive. Once the guest is inside, you can allow your dog to roam freely and give him treats whenever he is not aggressive. This will teach him to trust having strangers in the house in your presence. Biting Training Dogs can nib — but teach them not to bite. As mentioned earlier, dogs are very receptive to your emotions. We will use that dog characteristic to our advantage. You can allow your dog to nib on your hand. This will let your dog know that they hurt you by putting pressure with their jaws on your hand. Eventually, with enough treats and repetitions, the dog will learn not to apply pressure to avoid causing pain. Make sure your dog is well-adept to not apply pressure while nibbling. Once that is done, you can ask your family or friends trusted by your dog to follow the same command sequence. This way, the dog will eventually learn not to bite either you or any other human around him. Every time your dog refrains from putting pressure while nibbling, award him with a treat. You will end up with a fierce dog who is not afraid to scare but will not cause harm unless he senses danger. Summing Up Bernedoodle is an interesting dog breed. With high intelligence, loyalty, and goofiness, they are extremely adorable. Their curiosity also makes them easy to train as long as you start training them as soon as you get them. With the right blend of positive reinforcements, accurate tool usage, scheduling, and patience, you can train your Bernedoodle to be the best companion dog there is. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. This will help temper the Berner side of aloofness. If he takes after the Poodle side, the dog needs outlets for his boundless intelligence and energy. Manners training, retrieving and enrichment activities like puzzle toys can help satisfy his needs and prevent boredom. Dog breeders typically try to cross dogs that have the most appealing characteristics of each breed. Each Bernedoodle is unique and may take on more of the appearance or temperament of one parent breed than the other. Most Bernedoodles have a wavy coat with minimal shedding. Some have a curly coat similar to their Poodle ancestors. They can be pure black, black and white, black and brown or tri-colored black, brown and white. There are three sizes of Bernedoodles The standard Bernedoodle is a cross between a standard Poodle and a Berner. He ranges between 50 to 90 pounds and 23 to 29 inches at the shoulder. The mini Bernedoodle is a cross between the mini Poodle and the Berner. He ranges between 25 to 49 pounds and 18 to 22 inches at the shoulder. The tiny Bernedoodle is a cross between a toy Poodle and a mini Bernedoodle and is between 10 to 24 pounds and 12 to 17 inches at the shoulder. The mini and tiny Bernedoodles may have slightly higher energy levels than the standards do. Bernedoodles can make great family members for people who want an intelligent, easygoing companion. But be aware that your puppy may take after his high-driven, friendly Poodle ancestors or his aloof, headstrong Berner side in appearance and temperament. Start early and use plenty of positive reinforcements. They will be more happy and confident if they understand that you are in charge. Mini Bernedoodle pups are intelligent, and they will quickly learn what is expected of them. Here are a at home training tips for Mini Bernedoodles — there are also many good resources online. This will be home to your MiniBernedoodle pup when they sleep or when you are away. Make sure the crate is big enough that your pup can comfortably lie down, sit, and stand up. Place some comfortable rags or mattresses for them to sleep on and lure them inside with their favorite toys. Every time they pop into the crate willingly, give them a treat or play with them to show your appreciation. Many pups come to see their crate as a safe place to go when they want to rest or need a break. Potty Training One of the most challenging parts of the training is teaching your MiniBernedoodle pup to do their job at the right place. You will need to be patient and use many positive reinforcements while showing them the right place to do their business. Take the puppy out first thing in the morning and after every time that they eat, drink, or play. Make sure you reward them when they poo or pee at the proper place. Socializing You need to start socializing your mini doodle puppy as soon as possible. Although these puppies are quite even-tempered, they can also be anxious around strangers. To avoid unpleasantness later on, when guests come around, start training your pup to socialize when they are still babies. You have to train your pup to socialize with not just humans but with other dogs as well. Many people tend to think that dogs get along with dogs. Frequent walks and visits to doggy daycare and dog parks are great training tools. The more they see and interact with other pups and people the better their social skills will be. A well-behaved, friendly dog is a pleasure to be around since they are safe and loved by all. Barking Training Another problem you might face with your Bernedoodle pup is barking — this is their way of expressing themselved. The will most often do this for food, when they need to go outside, to alert you of strangers, or to get your attention. Try to understand the reason behind their barking so you can find a solution. For instance, if your pup mostly barks for food, have their feed ready at their place at fixed times every day. They will quickly learn that there is a time and will wait more patiently. Again, reward them the first few times they wait patiently for the food without barking. It will help them to understand what they are expected to do. Outdoor Walks - Leash Training Start out by introducing your puppy to their harness or leash. Let her wear in around the house for short periods of time while you are playing. Teach you puppy to come to you for treats around the house when you ask them to. Progress to holding the leash and asking them to follow you for the upcoming treats. Practice inside first, then outside as they become more comfortable. Here is a great leash training article from the American Kennel Club. Discourage Nipping Puppies playing with other pups will nip out of sheer playfulness. Your Mini Bernedoodle puppy might do the same when playing with you. But you have to train them that nipping is not allowed. The point to note here is that nipping is not the same as mouthing, a typical dog trait for showing affection. The difference lies in the force. So, you have to teach your Mini Bernedoodle pup the difference between mouthing and nipping. Eventually, your pup will understand the difference between nipping and mouthing. They will learn that nipping will not get them anywhere and learn to control the amount of force they use when play-biting. Verbal Cues Every dog understands a few human words. You, too, can train your Bernedoodle pup to follow verbal cues of things that you want them to do. For instance, when potty training your pup, you may use the word potty. Just make sure you use the same word every time. When your puppy poos after you say the word reward them, to show that this is what you are asking of them. You can use similar simple words for eating, going out, playtime, treats, and so on. If you are consistent they will learn to associate the word and will follow your verbal cues. Final Words Mini Bernedoodle puppies are a pleasure to be around. They are wonderfully friendly, active, and playful family-friendly dogs. Early and proper training will head off many difficulties. You will have a fantastic companion for life whose love is irreplaceable and completely unselfish. Pleasant Creek Mini Mini Bernedoodles puppies are socialized and positive behaviors are encouraged from the start! Laura: .Sniffing Taking self to a corner or isolated area away from crate or owner There is a chance the puppy can bark. Not all Bernedoodle puppies will bark to indicate they need to use the bathroom. They often learn this will get your attention when they get older. Persistence is everything in how to potty train your Bernedoodle puppy. Each of these cues can trigger a bowel movement or pee — so take the opportunity each and eveytime to educate the puppy about your expectations. Bernedoodles descend from the giant, majestic, and sometimes very stubborn Bernese Mountain Dog! This Step Shows You How To Potty Train a Bernedoodle Properly Now that you understand the physical and time cues, plus have an understanding about the importance of consistency and praise — it is time for the most important step. The key element of potty training a Bernedoodle is creating a schedule and sticking to it. We are blessed with intelligent puppies like Bernedoodle crosses. Their brains and nature primes them to learn how to be house trained to suit our modern lifestyle. All the elements are there from an early age. You need to create a schedule and stick to it. Here are the rules on how to potty train a bernedoodle. We feed on a schedule. There is no grazing or meals on demand for a puppy you want to housetrain. Set a morning and evening meal, and as close as humanly possible stick to this schedule As per the temporal cue list above — after eating and having water it is time to take your Bernedoodle outside to toilet Bedtime and Wakeup time Stick closely to the schedule if possible. Take the puppy to the toilet straight after retrieving from the sleep area Similarly take the puppy to toilet prior to bedtime as well this will eliminate unfortunate accidents in the sacred crate space Puppies Nap — this cannot be planned in detail You need to be acutely aware of when the nap is happening though, as immediately afterwards the puppy should be taken out to toilet Plan regular playtimes as part of the routine Stimulation mentally and exertion physically are both triggers that can lead to toilet time Plan these to keep your puppy entertained and then maximise on the opportunity to potty train immediately after Away for a time? Do this. Try not to let the time you are ware interference with the waking or sleeping time for the puppy. Crate or isolate the puppy see advice above without food or water Limit to as few hours as possible Remember to toilet immediately on return I know, such a strict schedule approach can be inconvenient. However a few weeks of strict adherence is a minor inconvenience once the Bernedoodle is successfully toilet trained. How to Potty Train a Bernedoodle in an Apartment Toilet training in an apartment can be trickier than in a home. It is often easier in a home to give the dog fast access to the outside to use the bathroom. If you need to travel down stairs or an elevator — you will need to be more prepared than most. Routine and schedule is everything for your dog. You are going to need an indoor dog toilet or a porch potty. Most apartment dwellers choose to stick with this option permanently so their dog has no distress if left alone in the apartment. Life is unpredictable, having a safe option is a good idea. Rinse the three layers of the dog potty tray with soapy water and clean-up is complete. Color: Green and Black. We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. Check out the video. It is self draining, we can wash it with a hose, and our dog loves it! Here we review 7 DIY or affordable porch or indoor dog toilets to consider. Even a well trained Bernedoodle might make a mistake every now and then. It is important to handles these toilet mistakes appropriately. Managing these unfortunate events is a vital part of how to potty train a Berendoodle. These tips let you know how to approach the stinky problem. If you catch your Bernedoodle peeing Act quickly! Move towards the puppy and pick them up. We are alerting the dog that something is not right — not yelling at them. Pick the dog up and move them to the correct spot that you want them to go to toilet. Take the puppy to the toilet area. Even if they finish before you get there — linger at the toilet for some time with the dog. If the puppy does finish in the correct spot, reward your Berendoodle with both the vocal praise pick one phrase and stick with it — see above and also have some treats handy! If you catch your Bernedoodle mid-poo This one is much tougher. If you catch the dog early and the toilet is nearby — you might succeed in moving the dog to the correct location. Usually this is not feasible. Let it happen, then deal with it. Express disappointment in a measured voice. Use the same word when things are not welcome. A sound or consistent word avoids confusion. There is no merit in scaring the dog mid-poop. There is little merit for most dogs in yelling at them or showing them their mistake. Do not make a big deal about cleaning up the mess. Get it sorted and go from there. It can be frustrating, but look for the temporal and physical signs of pooping next time and try to get ahead of the problem. Only an enzymatic cleaner will clean up the hidden smells. When you are trying to figure out how to potty train a Bernedoodle, your first step should be to pick up some cleaning goods. There will be some mess. If not, the dog will return to the same spot and mess there again. This is the single most important product to make house training your dog possible. IF there is a lot of poop to clean off your Bernedoodle, start with a thorough clean using water and dog shampoo. In these circumstances washing the dog in a sink or shower is typically the best bet. Dwelling in a bath is not a great idea! If it is a once off then your regular dog shampoo should do the trick. We took a deep dive and thoroughly reviewed the 5 Best Shampoo For Bernedoodles here. It has rave reviews from the Bernedoodle owners and a groomer! I spoke to. In our test it washed really effectively and lathered up with not too much shampoo required. This type of dog can come in various colors, patterns, and sizes, each more unique than litters before. Although they are intelligent dogs, the Bernedoodle is not without its challenges regarding training and obedience. As a result, some pet owners will find specific struggles with their new Bernedoodle puppy once they bring it home. For example, Poodles are a high-energy breed devoted to their owners, while Bernese Mountain dogs have a calming nature but prefer to keep busy by working on a task, like protecting their yard and home. Anytime two dog breeds cross, there can be challenges. Some challenges of training Bernedoodles can be: Stubbornness Exhibit sensitivity Stubbornness Poodles and Bernese Mountain dogs are highly intelligent animals, making the Bernedoodle a smart hybrid breed. However, even intelligent dogs can be stubborn when going through training. These dogs may push the boundaries to see what they can get away with before receiving a correction from their owners. Unfortunately, this stubborn streak can also appear often if you are inconsistent with their training or if multiple household members use different training techniques. Easily Distracted High-energy dogs can appear easily distracted, especially during training. Bernedoodle puppies have exceptionally short attention spans, making it more challenging to train for long periods. Exhibit Sensitivity Poodles and Bernese Mountain dogs are incredibly social animals and love to please their owners. Although this characteristic can be an advantage for training methods, if you are prone to scolding or using punishment, your pet may exhibit sensitivity and retreat from you, hindering your training efforts. Using proper methods and techniques when teaching your dog how to behave is critical, especially for sensitive Bernedoodles that may cower if you raise your voice or make threatening movements. How To Train a Bernedoodle the Right Way The most important thing to remember when training a Bernedoodle is that each dog is unique and can take anywhere from four to six months to adapt to your obedience commands. Of course, some ways will help make your methods easier for them to understand and follow. Some tips for Bernedoodle training include: Start training as soon as you bring home your new pet Be consistent with commands Enlist in short spurts of training, multiple times a day Ensure your pet receives enough physical and mental stimulation By recognizing some simple tricks, pet owners may have an easier time getting their dogs to follow commands and learn desirable behaviors. How To House Train a Bernedoodle Many dog owners will want to begin house training as soon as they bring home their new Bernedoodle puppy. No one wants to clean up messes that a dog leaves in the house, so having your new pet house trained is vital for sanitary living conditions. Puppies typically eliminate urine approximately every 15 to 20 minutes because of their small, immature bladders. On average, a Bernedoodle puppy will have a bowel movement 20 to 30 minutes after eating a meal and after exercising. One of the best ways to have a headstart on practical house training is to minimize the instances your pup will pee or poop inside. The best way to house train your Bernedoodle puppy is by following these steps: As soon as you wake up, take your dog outside for a chance to go to the bathroom. Provide your pet with water and food for the morning, then set a timer for 10 to 15 minutes for the next outside potty break. Follow a strict 15 to minute schedule for potty breaks throughout the day. In addition, watch for potential cues your pup needs to go, including excessive sniffing or circling in the house. This way, your Bernedoodle has a better chance of going outside than indoors. You should remove any water source from your new puppy in the early evening. This schedule will give them enough time to eliminate their bladders before bedtime and reduce nighttime accidents in the house. Each time your pet successfully goes to the bathroom outside, reward them with treats and praise to provide positive reinforcement for good behavior. If your new puppy has an accident indoors, refrain from punishing them. Tell your dog a stern, No, then pick them up and take them outside. Do not make a big production of any accidents indoors as this gives the dog attention, and they may interpret it as a way to get recognition from you. Avoid eye contact during this time, and clean up their mess quickly. How To Leash Train a Bernedoodle The next phase of training a Bernedoodle will be ensuring that you can take them out for a walk on a leash. Because Bernedoodles are moderately active breeds, they require one to three daily walks ranging from 30 to 60 minutes or more. Nothing is more frustrating than a dog that pulls constantly or gets tangled up in their lead with you or other dogs. Showing your new Bernedoodle puppy how to walk on a leash will give them the structure they need each time they leave the house for daily walks. In addition, proper leash training will come in handy when meeting new people and unfamiliar dogs. Leash training should regularly occur in your home with your new Bernedoodle as they mature and settle into their new family. The best way to leash train your pet will incorporate these steps: Always make leash training a positive activity, so your pet associates its walks with a pleasant experience rather than punishment. Remember to bring high-value treats to reward your dog as you go through the training process with them. Some dog owners find it easier to leash train their Bernedoodle using a harness rather than a collar. You can try both methods to see which works best for you and your pet. However, using a harness can minimize pulling or accidental harm from sharp jerks on a collar if your pet suddenly tries to run or pulls too hard. Keep the leash in both hands with one hand at your hip, providing only enough leash to reach your dog comfortably. Do not allow excessive leash distance where they can roam far from you or tangle up during the walk. Ensure your dog always stays by your side while consistently providing positive feedback and treats to them as they walk beside you. Give your dog lots of eye contact and verbal praise during good leash walking behavior. If your Bernedoodle puppy tries to pull aggressively or tries to wander away, immediately stop walking. By restricting the ability to stray from your side, your pup will soon learn that the walking stops if they are not beside you and paying attention to your cues. Some dog owners find that the short attention span of Bernedoodle puppies can work in their favor during leash training. For example, if your new pet suddenly wants to run off during a walk because it spotted a cat, you can use redirection instead. Rather than stopping and waiting for your dog to look for obedience cues, try switching directions and removing your pet from the area of distraction. This change of scenery may be all your dog needs to reengage into their positive walking behavior. How To Eliminate Nipping or Biting One common occurrence with Bernedoodle puppies is their constant need to mouth, nip, or bite people, other animals, and objects in their surroundings. Puppies are baby dogs that use their nose and mouth to explore the world around them, making nipping or biting an instinctual behavior. Suppose your Bernedoodle puppy does not receive the proper training that discourages nipping or biting early. In that case, it may grow to continue this negative action into adulthood and unknowingly cause harm to people or other animals. Training a Bernedoodle to stop nipping or biting is simple once you recognize some tips to use, including: As soon as your pet mouths your hand, fingers, leg, etc. If you catch your puppy chewing on off-limits items, like shoes or furniture, immediately intervene with a swift no command, remove them from the area and provide an appropriate chew toy to resume their chewing behavior. Offer your Bernedoodle toys that allow treats inside to promote chewing and grab their interest more than your hands or personal items. This way, your dog will want to chew on toys that provide them with treats and reinforce good behaviors. Suppose redirection does not work with your puppy. In that case, some dog owners find that avoiding eye contact and immediately leaving their pet is an effective way to get the message across after biting. If you leave the room every time your dog nips at your fingers, they will soon realize that this behavior sends you away, which does not give them the attention they seek. Remember to never bite or strike your Bernedoodle puppy as punishment for nipping or biting you. Your pet might be trying to get your attention, may smell food on your fingers, or is not aware that this is negative behavior. By following these tips, remembering to use positive reinforcement, and being consistent, your new dog will quickly learn their boundaries and what behaviors are acceptable in your home. You will also like:. Home Info Which Doodle is best for you? This allows you to enjoy the companionship of each other early on. Start your Bernedoodle puppy training from the moment you bring it home. Remember that each dog has its unique traits. No dog is the same. Same with us humans. Even identical twins have their unique characteristics which makes them different from each other. Bernedoodle are loyal companion dogs that require moderate activity. Train them to complement your way of life. Bernedoodles are the cross-breed between a Bernese Mountain Dog and a Poodle. Both parents are also excellent breeds - intelligent, friendly, and easy-to-train dogs. Just like other pets, no matter how smart they are, they would still require training and guidance. As a pet owner, we collated this guide that would significantly benefit you. Imagine how wonderful would it be to have such an obedient and well-mannered dog right? Learn on! This is an important stage in honing a happy and meaningful relationship with your pet. The best way to jumpstart your Bernedoodle puppy training program is to research your puppy. Training old dogs requires a different set of tricks and a level of patience. Learning would only be different. For example, you are trying to teach a puppy to fetch a ball for about an hour. It won't have the stamina to learn how to fetch a ball for 60 minutes. But, you can still teach them less rigorous tricks such as shaking hands or retrieving their toys. Having to train the puppies at such a young age helps them develop that muscle and mental memory to be able to do the trick. It provides them with the strong foundation that they would be needing growing up. The young age of these puppies is a critical learning period. Their minds are like a sponge, always eager to learn. For those owning Bernedoodle, take advantage of their intelligence and willingness to be trained. Some research suggests that the learning stage for puppies is between 0 to 16 weeks old. It is the most crucial stage in their development. This is also considered the period where they learn to socialize with other canines. The first two weeks are when they still rely largely on their moms. Basic Obedience Training for Bernedoodle Puppies One important thing to remember during Bernedoodle puppy training is to know when to praise them and give them treats and when not to. When it comes to basic obedience training, this is where these canines learn how to sit, stay, come, fetch, walk, and other simple instructions you tell them to. Believe us when we say that your life will be so much easier if your dogs learn how to follow basic obedience instructions. Although Bernedoodles are known to be smart dogs, do not start training them with complex instructions. Start with simple ones that they can easily follow. Remember that consistency plays an important part in their learning. To make the training more fun for them, use positive reinforcement. Give them treats for a job well done. You can also pet them or praise them whenever they can follow your instructions. Make sure to repeat the command using different techniques such as changing environments, adding noises, or other forms of distractions. This will train them to follow instructions despite being in a tough environment. Patience is the key. Do not shout or scold your dogs if they fail to deliver what is expected. Crate Training for Bernedoodle Puppies Crate training is important so that your pets feel that they have a safe space within your home. This could also be used when you are doing your Bernedoodle potty training. During the crate training, you can start by putting their favorite blankets or toys inside the crate. Watch carefully how they would react. Those items should encourage them to walk voluntarily inside the crates. Never force or push them to enter the crates. Once your pet has entered the crate, take short intervals leaving it close. You can slowly extend the duration over time. If you see your pet panicking right away, you can open the door. Repeat the process until your pet gets more comfortable leaving the door closed over a long period. This process should be done slowly and in progression to avoid anxiety and panic for your pets. Remember, the crate should be used to help them potty train and should serve as a secure place for them. Do not use it as a form of punishment. But this roommate of yours is four-legged and could cause trouble and headache if not trained well. If you want to be living peacefully together with your furry friend, make sure to house trained it. Consistency, patience, and positive reinforcement are key for a successful Bernedoodle potty training journey. Socialization Training for Bernedoodle Puppies Socialization is vital for dogs, especially for Bernedoodle who enjoy the company of other dogs. Through socialization class, these puppies learn to interact with otter dogs. This is integral in forming their behaviors. This is also helpful for getting them accustomed to dealing with different people, different environments. If you want a confident dog, you will have to let them interact with other animals. Even if it's not their first time interacting with people or other dogs, make sure to watch your pet carefully, they could experience anxiety or discomfort during socialization. This can include off-leash training, advanced commands, and even specialized training such as agility or therapy work. Make sure that you enroll in a reputable training school where you can learn advanced training. This is where more complex and challenging tricks will be taught and can be learned by your pet. This breed can be stubborn at times. Asking it to follow your instruction could be challenging. Breathe in, be patient, and be creative with your training session. Excessive barking. This breed can't bark excessively even if they are happy. Make sure to address this during your training. Understand what triggers them to consistently bark so you can address the issue. These are just some of the problems that you may have to deal with while training your pet. If you are having a hard time resolving them, do not hesitate to ask a professional trainer or breeder. They have years of experience in dealing with this breed. You may also seek the guidance of a vet. Tips for Successful Bernedoodle Puppy Training If you want to be successful in your puppy training journey, follow these tips below. Begin training at an early age: The sooner you start the training, the earlier they can learn and follow your instructions. The better for both of you. Stay consistent: For the puppy to learn faster, be consistent in giving instructions. Established rules which are to be followed at all times. Apply positive reinforcement: Use treats, praise, and play to motivate to reward your Bernedoodle and make training fun for both of you. Never shout or hurt your pet, especially during times of stubbornness. Be patient: it takes time to learn. Humans also learn over time so be patient. Ask for professional help. If things are getting out of hand and you're finding it too difficult to handle, seek guidance from a professional. They will provide you with the knowledge to help you out. Recommended Resources for Bernedoodle Puppy Training To better equip you with information on training your pets, here are some of the resources you can check. Sophia Yin 2. Local Dog Training Classes: Check with your local pet stores, community centers, or dog training facilities for puppy training classes in your area. You can start with one resource first and see if the information aligns with your goal and your way of life. You can slowly progress on the resources as your training progresses too.

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half husky half golden retriever puppies for sale - Do Father dogs know their puppies? By two weeks of age, they should be alert and trying to stand. By three weeks, they should be trying to climb out of their nest or whelping box. By four weeks, all the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play. How long do puppies stay in whelping box? During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. How do you transition a puppy from a whelping box? By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. Can I move the whelping box? We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. Is whelping box necessary? As the last week of pregnancy approaches, your female dog will often begin looking for a secure and comfortable place to have her litter of puppies. Before this time comes, it is essential to create a whelping box so she becomes comfortable with it and knows this is the preferred place to have her puppies. Do 4 week old puppies need a heat lamp? Young puppies cannot maintain their own body temperature for a week or two after birth. Heating the area over the whelping box with the aid of a heat lamp is usually all that is necessary. When should I remove the whelping box? I usually take them out at about 3 — 4weeks. This is what I have in My box they just stay there all the time. When can puppies go all night without nursing? A six or seven week old puppy can go through the night without needing to feed as long as they have had enough food during the day. Should newborn puppies sleep with Mom? A newborn puppy is completely helpless and dependent upon her mother. Puppies should remain with the mother and littermates until about age eight to 12 weeks. How do you keep a puppy whelping box clean? Clean the bottom with a chemical-free disinfectant cleanser. Spray a bit of chemical-free disinfectant cleanser on the bottom and sides of your whelping box, and use a paper towel to wipe this up. When can I leave my dog alone with her puppies? Can you leave newborn puppies alone with their mom overnight? Should I leave my dog alone while she is in labor? Should I be present during the whelping? Some dogs like the owner to be with them the whole time they are in labor. Others prefer to have their puppies in seclusion. If your pet chooses to be left alone, try to avoid intruding any more than necessary. What is the best bedding for a whelping box? Many breeders use shredded newspaper to line whelping boxes, but others prefer towels and blankets, wood shavings, or even sand. Should I keep my dog in the whelping box? A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Pick up the puppies individually and hold them for several minutes at least once a day. Avoid letting small children handle the pups, as they can be too rough. While dams may be protective soon after delivery, they usually allow other people and animals around the litter by 3 to 5 weeks. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Take them out of the whelping box and let them play in penned, puppy-proofed areas. Introduce them to various surfaces, such as carpeted and hard floors, and give them safe dog toys with interesting shapes and textures. Be sure that the treats are tiny to help prevent unhealthy weight gain. Schedule play dates, and allow your puppies to meet and interact with new furry friends. When introducing a cats and dogs, a dog should be leashed, and a cat should have an avenue to escape if it feels threatened. Go to source Keeping the puppies with their litter and mother for 8 weeks is a must. Separating puppies prior to 8 weeks can lead to long-term behavioral issues. Puppies are highly adaptable, so most adjust to a new home within a couple of days. Go to source Having a familiar object can make a puppy comfortable with its new surroundings. These diffusers, sprays, and collars mimic the pheromones a mother dog produces, which can help soothe a puppy after it's left the litter. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more!