german shepherd x belgian malinois puppies for sale

Standard Goldendoodles can weigh anywhere between 50 and 90 pounds. Personality The place where the Goldendoodle puppy really excels is its personality. Its breed is known for being simultaneously intelligent and adoring. A Goldendoodle puppy is very sociable, which makes them perfect animals for households with children and other animals or pets, even cats. Just like the Labradoodle, this breed requires correct socialization to ensure they get used to different sights, sounds and smells during puppyhood. This means taking your Goldendoodle to plenty of doggy-friendly parks so they can meet canine friends and introducing them to other people. Our Goldendoodle puppies for sale are fully trained Doodles, so you can focus on the fun bits, like bonding, eating food and playing. These dogs prefer to live in a house with a gated backyard where they can get regular exercise breaks. Do They Like to Play? Goldendoodle Puppy Training These clever dogs are perfect for first-time dog owners because Goldendoodles love to please and take great pride in learning new skills. Are Goldendoodles Intelligent? Both of its poodle and golden retriever parent breeds are known for their intelligence and trainability, and Goldendoodles have inherited this breed trait. This means the person training a Goldendoodle needs to be strong-willed, firm and consistent — but never harsh or aggressive. Much like a poodle, Doodles are sensitive dogs, and positive reinforcement is a must to bring out the best in them. How Obedient Are They? Goldendoodle pups adore human company, and making their pet parents happy brings them genuine satisfaction. As such, correct puppy training produces a highly obedient and loyal adult Goldendoodle. Older adults, people with disabilities and individuals with neurodevelopmental disorders can benefit significantly from the warmth and sweetness of these adorable Goldendoodle pups. Are They Easy to Train? Doodle puppies can be mischievous and cheeky, but aggression is practically unheard of. So as long as you treat them with the same gentle respect they offer, a Goldendoodle is one of the easiest dog breeds to train. Goldendoodles have loads of energy and require regular exercise to maintain a healthy weight and calm temperament. A Goldendoodle need a moderately high level of outdoor activity — usually a minimum of 30 minutes, but ideally one hour, of moderate to vigorous exercise per day will keep Goldendoodle puppies at their best. Unlike puppy mills, all good puppy and dog breeders provide a certificate that shows health clearances. At Pride and Prejudoodles, our tests cover common health conditions. As such, you have peace of mind when purchasing your new puppy from us. How Long Do Goldendoodles Live? Goldendoodles live for between 10 and 15 years. We hope you found our guide informative. Please contact us with any other questions you have about our Goldendoodle puppies for adoption. We specialize in breeding Mini Goldendoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other high quality breeders that raise mini goldendoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! Not all mini Goldendoodles are equal, there are a few different versions to choose from each having a little different genetic background based on the pups parents. We will explain all the differences in Mini Goldendoodle puppies and how they are bred below. We raise all versions of the mini goldendoodle breed. F1 Mini Goldendoodle Pups. A F1 puppy is also known as a First Generation puppy. The puppies mother is a Golden Retriever and the pups dad is a Mini Poodle. This version of mini goldendoodle usually has soft wavy or curly puppy fur. They will shed until they lose their puppy fur, after shedding they will shed a lot less, but will shed. This version is partially hypoallergenic and usually requires low maintenance. F1 mini goldendoodles usually need to be groomed every 6 months along with daily brushing to keep their curly hair from matting and getting tangled. The dogs usually grow up having great temperaments similar to golden retrievers. They usually get about inches high at the shoulder and range in weight from pounds. F1b Mini Goldendoodle Pups. An F1b is known as a second-generation mini goldendoodle with the pups mother being already an F1 Goldendoodle and the pups dad being a mini poodle also. So the difference between F1 and F1b is that the mom is not a golden retriever but an actual F1 Goldendoodle. They also have very soft curly hair but with almost no shedding. This F1b version is semi-hypoallergenic and a better choice for anyone who has pet allergies. The F1b also should be brushed on a daily basis but will need to be groomed more frequently then a F1. A 6 to 8 week grooming schedule is recommended to keep their coat in perfect condition. F1b Mini goldendoodles get around 18 to 20 inches tall at the shoulders and range between pounds in weight. F1bb Mini Goldendoodle Pups. An F1bb goldendoodle is also known as a third-generation mini goldendoodle. This mini goldendoodle version has a coat more similar to a poodle than of a golden retriever. This is because the pup is more of a poodle than a retriever. Making it the very best version for anyone with pet allergies. A 6 to 8 week grooming schedule is required to help prevent knots or matting. This version is super intelligent and loving, and usually seems to have more energy than the other versions of Mini goldendoodles. This version is usually smaller in size, weighing around pounds and only getting inches tall at the shoulders. The smaller size makes them a great size for smaller homes and apartments. So if you live near Laramie Wyoming and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Goldendoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Goldendoodle Pups that have been adopted!

View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near Empire Oregon and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups! If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Luckily for you, we decided to take some work off your hands and do some research into all of the countless Bernedoodle breeders in Oregon. And we can definitely understand why. The Bernedoodle is a mix of the sweet-tempered Bernese Mountain Dog and the highly intelligent Poodle. And thanks to their Poodle heritage, these pups make perfect companions for people who suffer from allergies. Ethical breeders conduct extensive genetic and health testing on their parent dogs to ensure that their litters come from strong and healthy bloodlines. This helps detect any genetic defects that the offspring may inherit. This exceptional Bernedoodle breeder in Oregon takes great pride in their program. Their dogs and puppies are like family to them. Their three mama dogs sleep in the bed with the breeder, and they also have a guardian home program so each parent has their very own loving family. What Makes This Breeder Unique? They put great emphasis on socializing the puppies from an early age to children, adults, and also other dogs. In addition to that, they take their pups to car rides, introduce them to regular grooming and nail trims, teach them basic manners, and start the pups on crate training and potty training.

Boxers make great pets for both families and individuals, with their energetic and loyal traits. Adopting a puppy requires a lot of time and research to find a breeder that is best for you. While there are many to choose from, how do you make a decision? To give you some options, here are 5 Boxer Breeders in Florida to help you find your new furry friend and loyal companion. They are based in the Northeast Ocala area of Florida. Our goal at Shoquest is to produce puppies of the highest quality that will bring a lifetime of joy to their families. For more information, you can send them an email at shoquestboxers gmail. Our Boxers are raised inside with us and are part of our family. We do not have a kennel. The puppies are also raised inside, along with my children, and are well socialized. They come pre-spoiled. Their puppies are socialized from the day they are born and until they are at least 8 weeks of age. They will have their tails docked, dew claws removed, have their 1st set of vaccinations, a Florida Health Certificate and their AKC registration form. To learn more and get in touch, you can visit their website here. We could not be happier with our puppy and the process itself from start to finish. We will definitely be using the JCS Boxers again for our next puppy. They follow a meticulous diet for their puppies, with all of it starting with the health of the mom. Additionally, they plan their litters responsibly. Currently, their next litter is for January and you can view their gallery of puppies on their website here. In order to stay in touch about upcoming litters or to answer any questions you may have, you can send them an email at info jcsboxers. They are located in Central Florida and have been in business since .Boxers are our passion and ours are part of our family, living beside us inside our house because that is where they belong. We have owned Boxers as far back as I can remember. They are a very special breed but they are not for everyone. They require little grooming but they do need daily exercise. Boxers are very intelligent and loving.They are also very playful and have plenty of energy. They are great with children but need proper early training. They are all AKC, will have their tails docked, dew claws removed, vaccinations and health certificates before you take them home. And, they require an application before placing their puppies with you as they want to make sure they are going to loving, forever families. To get in touch about their next litter, you can contact them on their website here. They pride themselves on having a business that focuses on American production including all of the food and everything they use to raise their puppies. We believe we have achieved this with our boxers. We have spent time and research on choosing all our boxers. Boxers are born to show off and they do plenty of that. Their puppies are a part of their family, they have areas to exercise and play and have the best quality care. Currently, they have one boxer from their litter that is available. To keep in touch with their future litters, you can visit their puppies page here. And, to learn more or get in touch you can call them at .With the cost of veterinary bills rising each year, you could easily find yourself paying thousands out of pocket if an accident or illness were to occur. Let our team at Fursure help you get started on finding the best pet insurance policy for your furry friend. You pet will thank you! To get your pet protected and covered in just a few minutes , buy a pet insurance policy today! Join the Pack No spam. Just the very best in show products, expert pet parenting advice, and more.Read about our privacy policy. Thank you! Your submission has been received! Something went wrong while submitting the form. Introducing pet insurance that pays your vet directly. We let you keep your cash on hand, so you can focus on giving your pet the best care possible. We have the answers! What is the price range for a Boxer? The price range for Boxer puppies for sale Florida can be pretty wide. Breeders consider a number of factors when putting a price tag on their precious puppies including gender, coat color, and pedigree. Browse our featured Boxer breeders Florida to get started. Will I meet only local Boxer breeders? When looking for a Boxer for sale in Florida, your initial top choices will be breeders in your city or state. Your chosen breeder can then arrange to have your puppy safely transported to an airport near you. Our vetting process is designed to keep inexperienced breeders and puppy mills out of our network. Breeders and businesses who wish to join us undergo a strict screening process where their breeding knowledge, practices, and facilities are examined. How is Florida Puppies different from other puppy websites? They are good at marketing though! What is a puppy mill like? Puppy mills are dishonest breeders who mistreat their animals and forego essential newborn puppy care to make a bigger profit. Are there any Boxer puppies available in Florida right now? We can help you find out! You can also let us know if you have a specific Boxer puppy in mind! Where are Boxer dogs originally from? Boxers have quite an interesting history that dates back to the late s. It is still up for speculation which specific breeds were crossed to create the Boxer but the list includes the German Bullenbeisser and the Bulldog. The Boxer was created to be a guard dog, a role that it took upon with great success. Today, Boxers do police work but are also popular family dogs. What can I expect from the average Boxer? Boxers are energetic, alert, even-tempered, loyal, loving, and goofy. Boxers are smart and can be trained to do almost anything but keep in mind that they mature slowly -- they are basically puppies until the age of three! As a family dog, Boxers will do anything to protect their family and they are also known to be gentle with kids. How big do Boxers get? Boxers are medium-sized working dogs that can reach a weight of 70 pounds. Male Boxers usually stand at inches at the shoulder while female boxers can reach up to .They are muscular, sturdy, and quite quick. How does Florida Puppies work? Florida Puppies is a network of ethical breeders and businesses and your best source for finding Boxer puppies in Florida. Boxers's Available!

Are you interested in a French Bulldog puppy? Talk to us because we would be happy to advise you on the placement of a puppy or the purchase of your French Bulldog puppy. We can be reached by phone for an appointment, but a visit to the puppy room is an even more interesting experience. Just visit us in the puppy room without obligation, here you can personally get to know your French Bulldog puppy and, above all, try out cuddles. Not sure if you are ready for a puppy? We offer you a lot of information before visiting our Competence Center at. Read the different topics so that you can acquire the knowledge you need before you buy. We are happy to answer your questions by phone. We know from experience how quickly you can fall in love with a puppy. We are there for you, happy to advise you on the character and breed-typical characteristics of the puppy. We would like to give them your puppies but also to exclude rash impulse purchases. Why do we do that? You can find that in our Principles. Our online shop will soon make a purchase possible, but a visit to the puppy parlor is also necessary here. We like the puppies as much as they do, so of course we don't send dogs! Character French bulldogs are playful, intelligent, friendly and cuddly. They feel very comfortable in the company of people, especially those of their owners. He is a brave dog with a slope that is bigger than he actually is. He will not give up in a fight with another dog if he is tackled. The body is very muscular and they have a short tail. The French Bulldog gets along well with other pets. Breed data. Download our guide! We offer standard and fluffy Award- winning Award-winning bloodline, guaranteed health Every TomKings parent dog has passed a rigorous selection and examination process before we started our elite breeding program to build the healthiest and most Frenchie-authentic gene pool for our TomKings Frenchies. All of our adult dogs and puppies get the highest quality food and supplements to ensure immaculate health, and they are checked by our vet on a weekly basis. Our purebred French bulldogs come with a TomKings Health Guarantee, that is valid against all genetic illnesses. Instead, we treat all of our Frenchies as family members , let them roam freely in our vast green garden and rest with us in our house. Our Frenchie puppies can play as much as they want and we raise them by teaching all the good manners among dogs and people, including children. Maternal love 12 weeks of maternal love and professional care Spending 3 whole months after birth with their caring mother and siblings ensures that TomKings puppies develop a healthy dog-personality and a well-balanced nature. Before joining their new families in the USA and elsewhere, our Frenchies get all the puppy vaccinations, are dewormed and treated against parasites. They travel in a temperature-controlled and pressurized room not stacked on top of suitcases , and they are watched all along the flight. During layovers, the puppies are taken off the plane and placed in a pet hotel, where they are given fresh food, water and lots of pampering. They are sweeter than any airport scenes in romantic movies. Feel free to reach out to us any time with your questions or to share your joy: we answer you immediately 16 hours a day. You can pay by bank card, money transfer, or cryptocurrency. Reprinting of information and photos of the site is prohibited! Manage Cookie Consent We use cookies. Not consenting, may adversely affect certain features and functions. Functional Functional Always active The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. Preferences Preferences The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. Statistics Statistics The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. Marketing Marketing The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.

Swine gestation calculator. Dog due date, labor, and pregnancy Your dog can get pregnant between the ages of 2 to 6. The female is most fertile in her 2nd or 3rd heat heat happens every 5 to 11 months. That's also when we can expect the largest litter. When pregnant, your dog will start to eat more and gain weight, and lab tests may show anemia and an elevated number of white blood cells. Remember that false pregnancy is a relatively common occurrence in dogs! Factors that may influence the number of puppies: Breed of the dog large dogs: puppies, small dogs: ; Amount of the male's sperm; Breeding time; Health of a female; and The state of the dog's uterus previous pregnancies. Our dog gestation period calculator will familiarize you with how your dog's pregnancy develops and the time left until her labor. At that time, your dog's temperature will drop by 1. She will breathe more rapidly and have an elevated thirst. The dog will start to get nervous and will gather all her toys in a safe, quiet place. Once we computed the labor date with the dog due date calculator, it's sensible to prepare for it in advance. When the big day comes, you'll need: Sterile gloves; A bottle with prepared formula. Did you know? A dog's egg cell must mature for days before it can be fertilized by sperm! The puppy's wellbeing Once you've used the pregnancy calculator and you know the exact date your new puppies will arrive, try to keep in mind the following rules: During pregnancy, you have to avoid certain medications, including some antibiotics or antifungal treatments. Inform your vet that you suspect that your dog might be pregnant. Check if your dog is consuming enough food. During lactation, your dog should consume twice as much food as usual too. Pups will start to open their eyes after days. They can't discriminate between shapes until the 18th day of their life! So, if they have trouble with sucking, you must help them navigate to their mother's nipples don't worry, they know what to do once there. We hope that our puppy due date calculator helps you assure yourself that everything's ready and under control for the arrival of some new lives! Share the joy! They'll be eager to devour everything once they're older! You may find out more about the possible danger in our dog chocolate toxicity calculator. Here are some signs that your dog may be pregnant: Weight gain;. Swine gestation calculator. Dog due date, labor, and pregnancy Your dog can get pregnant between the ages of 2 to 6. The female is most fertile in her 2nd or 3rd heat heat happens every 5 to 11 months. That's also when we can expect the largest litter. When pregnant, your dog will start to eat more and gain weight, and lab tests may show anemia and an elevated number of white blood cells. Remember that false pregnancy is a relatively common occurrence in dogs! Factors that may influence the number of puppies: Breed of the dog large dogs: puppies, small dogs: ; Amount of the male's sperm; Breeding time; Health of a female; and The state of the dog's uterus previous pregnancies. Our dog gestation period calculator will familiarize you with how your dog's pregnancy develops and the time left until her labor. At that time, your dog's temperature will drop by 1. She will breathe more rapidly and have an elevated thirst. The dog will start to get nervous and will gather all her toys in a safe, quiet place. Once we computed the labor date with the dog due date calculator, it's sensible to prepare for it in advance. When the big day comes, you'll need: Sterile gloves; A bottle with prepared formula. Did you know? A dog's egg cell must mature for days before it can be fertilized by sperm! The puppy's wellbeing Once you've used the pregnancy calculator and you know the exact date your new puppies will arrive, try to keep in mind the following rules: During pregnancy, you have to avoid certain medications, including some antibiotics or antifungal treatments. Inform your vet that you suspect that your dog might be pregnant. Check if your dog is consuming enough food. During lactation, your dog should consume twice as much food as usual too. Pups will start to open their eyes after days. They can't discriminate between shapes until the 18th day of their life! So, if they have trouble with sucking, you must help them navigate to their mother's nipples don't worry, they know what to do once there. We hope that our puppy due date calculator helps you assure yourself that everything's ready and under control for the arrival of some new lives! Share the joy! They'll be eager to devour everything once they're older! You may find out more about the possible danger in our dog chocolate toxicity calculator. Here are some signs that your dog may be pregnant: Weight gain;. Shelter pets teach students essential skills for success Our Impact A pioneer of the no-kill movement, North Shore Animal League America continues to lead the way with the development of national and international programs that increase adoptions and raise awareness about the plight of homeless animals. Support our work, donate today! Each month features heroic stories of compassion and some of the special animals we've had the privilege to rescue, nurture and adopt - and we surely couldn't have done it without YOU, and all our loyal supporters. Order yours today! Enjoy delicious food and drinks, live entertainment, a silent auction and plenty of puppy love. Reserve your spot today and join us as we celebrate another year of our lifesaving mission. The Season of New Beginnings I read somewhere that September represents endings and new beginnings, which makes sense. Summer ends, autumn begins, vacation ends, and the school year begins. Speaking of new beginnings, there are currently two young nursing mammas in my program, with a total of nine nuggets. Back to School Tips: Leaving Your Pet at Home The hurried rush of back-to-school and shorter days means families are spending more time focused on school work and active schedules. That may mean leaving your furry friends home alone more often. Now is an important time to incorporate your pet into the family's new routine. This was never more true than for Quartz, who at just weeks old needed all of our resources to survive. Warning, some images may be heartbreaking. Opening your heart to these dogs and cats is a profoundly meaningful and compassionate act; you give them the chance to experience comfort, security and affection in their remaining days. Now fully recovered from his dual hip surgery, Buddy has made quite a mark on the hearts of his caregivers…and even on some of their family members. Cosmo may become less anxious about a car ride if special treats come along. I have been working on getting him socialized, and taking him into town for walks. He used to love going on car rides. During the car ride, when I drive into town with my brother, he tends to become very anxious, and starts pacing and whining. Is there anything I can do to help him not be so anxious when going for a car ride into town? I would like him to feel comfortable every time we go for rides. Kat Dear Kat, From your description, it sounds like the anxiety may possibly be connected to the addition of your brother on the car rides. If the only time Cosmo gets pieces of chicken or hot dog is on the drive to town, he may start to love those rides! A hollow marrow bone with a small piece of meat wedged in the middle is likely to keep Cosmo working at getting the meat out, with little else to worry about. Be happy and upbeat throughout the whole process, and it should become infectious for Cosmo. Good luck! Dogcharmer Tom Have a question for the Dogcharmer? Write him at dogsrshelby msn. Find him on Instagram DogTrainingDiaries.

Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:. Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy.

Did You Know? How big do GSDs get? The German Shepherd is a large breed of dog. GSD males are ideally 24'' to 26'', weighing between 70 to 90 pounds, and females 22'' to 24'', weighing between 50 to 70 pounds. German Shepherd Coat? GSDs have an inner and an outer coat. Indeed, they shed heavily at times, but quick daily grooming with a coat "rake" helps greatly! GSDs make superior family pets. Great with adults, children, and infants alike. GSDs typically live 12 to 14 years. Guarding Skills GSDs are of the shepherding class of dogs and are thus inclined to protect the home and family. Many of my customers decide on a German Shepherd because of their renowned loyalty. They became familiar with the breed when they were growing up either with one in the home or through a neighbor or friend that had one. The fore legs are parallel and straight, while the rear legs are placed one more forward, and the other further back. This causes the head to be high, and the rump lower, looking at readiness and nobility. The stack pose is used in the show ring to exaggerate the dog's overall structure and is not the normal stance or position of the show line dogs. In short, it is an ordered examination of a dog's abilities in the disciplines of tracking, obedience, and protection, while Kkl is an abbreviated form of the German word "koerklasse. It is the final evaluation of many tests and trials to determine one simple thing about the dog.A dog with a Kkl rating of "passed" is deemed worthy to pass on its traits to the next generation. Call us to learn more about our puppies. We are a small hobby breeder of West Showline German Shepherds with only a few litters a year. Our dogs are part of our family, share our home, and travel with us. We are located in Halifax, PA about 30 minutes north east of Harrisburg. I was impressed with their working ability and superior intelligence along with a loving demeanor that was absolutely unmatched. As I was learning more about the breed and looking for my perfect addition to my family, I saw the Long Coats for the first time and fell in love. Our dogs have brought pure joy and happiness into our home and it is our goal to bring the same joy and happiness into yours! They have sound temperaments, are very intelligent, easy to train, loyal, and protective. Everyone is encouraged to stop in for a visit of our home, meet our family, and see our GSD's. It is our goal to produce top quality German Shepherds with a stunning black and deep red coat with loving personalities, outstanding character, and family protection in one perfect package. Integrity is Very important with us, you will Never feel pressured into getting a Puppy, we are very honest and direct with our process and time table when we will have Puppies available. All the Information Posted about our Dogs can be verified through Documentation. Our Pictures are Never Altered or adjusted to mislead you into thinking our dogs are better than they are, and to be Honest we do not need too : The day you pickup your Bergerhaus puppy you will be invited into a Secret Facebook page called Bergerhaus Puppy Club if you so choose to accept here you can interact with others Bergerhaus puppy owners, watch littermates of your baby grow, become friends with other puppy owners, and ask advise from everyone in the group!

By Yvonne Villasenor Yvonne Villasenor is a freelance writer and animal lover who just so happens to be allergic to cats and dogs. That doesn't stop her from cuddling with them! When Yvonne's not working, you can find her lounging with her charming Chihuahuas, weightlifting, or wandering around Halloween stores. Having such unique and versatile fur means there are countless poodle haircuts for you to choose from, and a professional groomer can give your poodle a makeover with a hairstyle that best matches her personality and lifestyle. With so many options available, learn how your poodle can look like anything from a plush toy to elegant royalty! Teddy Bear Cut The teddy bear cut is a popular trim for poodles and other long-haired breeds. With this look, your poodle has longer hair on her face for a soft, rounded "teddy bear" appearance, and the rest of the fur on her body is cut at a shorter, uniform length throughout. Talk about cuddly cuteness! Summer Cut Because poodles have a single coat, they can enjoy the luxury that comes with it: the summer cut. Known as one of the most low-maintenance poodle haircuts, the summer cut is a practical haircut option that keeps your poodle's fur short so she stays comfortable in hot weather. So if you're looking to cut your hair to beat the heat in the summer, you and your poodle can rock shorter hairdos together! Puppy Cut No matter your poodle's age, you can seemingly turn back time with the puppy cut. Also a popular choice among poodle parents, the puppy cut is a simple, natural-looking trim that leaves your dog with an evenly cut length, typically 1 to 2 inches, all over. This is a highly modifiable look, so consult your groomer for a length that best fits your and your dog's preference and lifestyle. Continental Cut The continental cut is a glamorous and traditional hairstyle often worn by poodle show dogs. With this look, your poodle's face, throat, feet, and part of the tail are shaved. This look is characterized by full hair on the rib cage and chest, pom poms of fur on the tail, ankles, and hips, as well as a banded topknot on the head. German Trim Looking for a haircut that looks fancy but not too fancy? The German trim uses the power of angles to give your poodle a sharp profile. The hair on your furry friend's legs is left long, while the hair on the body and ears is cut short. This is a great option not only if your poodle is more active but also if your pup is prone to ear infections or ear matting. Modern Cut The modern cut is an elegant hairstyle that combines aesthetics with your poodle's natural features. This cut keeps the hair on the body short, accentuating your poodle's shape. The fur on the head, ears, and tail is left longer to create a fluffy appearance. When your dog has such curly, coarse locks, you may wonder how many trips to the groomer you and your poodle may be making. Poodles and poodle-crosses also go through a coat change in the first year of life, so they need to be groomed more often," says Danna Alexander, owner of Prestige Dog Grooming School. To keep mats and tangles at bay, it's best to brush your poodle at least two to three times a week. Toy poodle haircuts aren't off limits for miniature and standard poodles, just as standard poodle haircuts aren't off limits for miniature and toy poodles. While any poodle can sport any style, there may be common options you'd like to choose from. Because there are various names for different types of poodle haircuts, make sure to bring your groomer a photo of the haircut you'd love your pooch to have. Was this page helpful? Poodle Clips Overview One of the most fascinating and interesting elements of the Poodle breed are the amazing clips of the coat. The owner of a pet Poodle may simply choose to keep the entire coat trimmed to a certain length.Or the owner of a pet or show Poodle may want the appropriate show cut. The AKC requires certain cuts depending on the age of the Poodle. Let's take a look at the proper Poodle clips for AKC conformation and what each clip entails. When showing, this is the only acceptable clip for Poodles under 1 year old. Many pet owners opt for this cut as well, as it allows for the Poodle to have full coverage over the body, without exposing any skin, except for the dog's small paws. When skin is exposed it is subjected to the sun and can develop possible sores from playing around in the yard or when exposed skin is resting against carpeting. With this type of clip, the Poodle's face, throat, paws and base of the tail are shaved. The entire shaven foot is visible. You may opt to have a pompon on the end of the tail. In order to give a neat appearance and a smooth unbroken line, shaping of the coat is done with scissors to even things up and get rid of any long, straggly hairs. The face, front legs between poms and elbow, hind quarter to the pom area and with the exception of the hip rosettes, feet, and base of tail are all shaved very closely. The pack area is left very, very long and scissored into shape. The top knot is left very long and pulled into a ponytail. The tail is given a very large pompon. Poms on the legs are started just above the wrist and hock joints and end just above the feet. They are also scissored round. The hip rosettes are placed directly over the Poodle's hip joint. These are also scissored round. The reason that this is allowed is that the only element which is "modified" is the lack of the hip rosettes, which are optional. English Saddle With this clip, the Poodle's face, front leg between pom and pack, crescent on the flank, base of tail, separations between poms on rear legs and paws are all closely shaved. The pack is left rather full and is scissored into shape. The top knot on the head is left long and pulled back into a pony tail. The poms on front legs are leg long and started above the wrist joint and ends above the feet. The area over the hips and flanks are scissored shorter into a smooth blanket. The tail's pom is left long and shaped into a ball. The poms on hind legs are rounded off and spaced evenly apart. The bottom pom begins just above the hock and ends above the feet. With this Poodle clip, the face, feet, throat, and base of the tail are shaved close, leaving a scissored cap on the top of the head. The rest of the dog's body, and legs are clipped or scissored to follow the outline of the dog leaving a short, soft blanket of coat approximately 1 inch long. The hair on the legs may be slightly longer than that on the body. There is a nice, fluffy pompon at the end of the Poodle's tail. It is also referred to as the 'Second Puppy Clip'. The hair on the top may be left puffed out or pulled into a topknot. The coat is allowed to be very low on the legs, only showing a bit of the paw. It is a nice clip that offers a pleasant shape while not exposing any skin. Since coat growth can quickly cause this clip to loose shape, it is retouched approximately 5 to days before a show event. Kennel Clip - This is a pet clip, meaning that many pet owners opt for this easy clip and it is not permissible in the AKC show ring. Body hair is short all over and just scissored into shape. The top knot and tail are left longer than the body hair. The length of the body hair is completely up to the owner, some opt for a shorter length in the hotter months and longer in colder months. Lamb Clip - This is very similar to the Kennel Clip. The only difference is that the coat is left longer. With this Poodle clip, the dog's face, feet, and base of tail are shaved closely. Body hair is left fluffy but not too long and then scissored into shape. The legs are shaped into a pom at the bottom starting just above the wrist and the hock ending just above the feet. The length of the hair is up to the owner, however, most opt for a very short clip. Dutch Clip - This is an interesting pet clip. The Poodle's face, neck area, belly band, feet, and base of tail are shaved closely. The belly band may be shaved thin or wide, as shown in the photo. The lines between the withers along the spine and between the hips along the spine are also shaved. These lines are very narrow. The top of the head, the legs, and tail are left very fluffy. As you can imagine, the coat cannot be brushed in the traditional sense, cords must be separated out by hand. This used to be a very popular way to keep the coat long ago, however now this is exceedingly rare since most pet owners simply do not have the time to braid the section, keep the coat clean or wait for the exceedingly long drying time that comes with such large dread-lock type sections. This an exceptionally difficult style to do and to maintain which keeps owners away even if the look is a desired one. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us.

Contact Us We have a beautiful litter of stunning chocolate labrador girl puppies available to only the best loving homes, born on 22nd July. Our dogs are championship show winners, and our puppies are bred from hip X rayed, eye tested parents of superb quality from long-established proven bloodlines, with wonderful temperaments. We would like potential Labrador owners to realise that it is a huge responsibility and long-term commitment purchasing a chocolate labrador puppy, which is going to mature into a large, strong dog requiring plenty of daily exercise. Homes where the puppy is to be left alone all day are unsuitable, as labradors require company, affection, house-training and exercise. It will be necessary to have a fully-fenced garden and, whilst our labradors are wonderful with small children, puppies should not be regarded as their toys and they must be very well cared and above all loved. Since then family life at Llanstinan has included a house full of Labradors, later to include blacks and yellows. The first litter was bred to give Lynda's 4 young children an insight into life with Labradors. All Llanstinan labrador puppies are insured, microchipped and have excellent pedigrees. They are sturdy chunky puppies with lovely heads and superb outgoing temperaments. They are always whelped in the house, are lavishly reared and are very well socialised with other animals and small children. Lots of relatives of the puppies are resident at Llanstinan, including mother, sometimes father, grandmother, and great grandmother, along with aunts and uncles who all welcome visitors giving a true labrador welcome. Puppies leave for their new homes after they have been checked by the Vet and micro-chipped. They leave with a full puppy pack which includes copies of both parents' health certificates, a 5 generation pedigree, contract of sale and a detailed diet sheet. A copy of Ann Britton's book 'Labrador Retriever' - understanding and caring for your breed, is also given to each new puppy owner. The author of this excellent book, Ann Britton has spent a lifetime with labradors. She judged bitches at Crufts , she is an international show judge and is a breeder of Champion labradors. She also has a weekly column in 'Our Dogs'. Her dogs, several which have Llanstinan breeding, can be seen on www. The children used to dress them up, sleep with them, play with them, and love them. Now the children are all grown up, their own children all have an endless passion for our gorgeous chocolate brown labrador puppies. Chocolate Lab puppy Gallery. It quickly became clear that this new dog, at the time called the St. Then, in the 19th century, visiting Englishmen took note of these incredible dogs, brought them home to England, and soon perfected and standardized the breed—which had now been dubbed the Labrador Retriever. When they began as the St. While this is still true today, the recessive colors of yellow and chocolate have become more and more coveted by those seeking Labs as pets. Thanks to years of breeding efforts, those recessive colors are not as difficult to find as they once were. Chocolate Labrador Retriever Puppies for Sale Chocolate Labs are a favorite among those looking to add a member of the breed to their family. Coat shades can range from a warm, light brown to a deeper chocolate color. Both parents must carry and pass on the recessive chocolate color gene in order for a puppy to be born with this coat. Just like their black and yellow counterparts, chocolate Labrador Retrievers are known as doting and capable dogs. You can put them to work as hunting or service dogs, but they make excellent cuddle buddies as well. Their beautiful coats and breed stature make them great show dogs too. The chocolate lab puppies we breed for sale at Hidden Pond Labradors come with their first round of shots, one-year written health guarantee, and a veterinarian health certificate. We are dedicated to breeding our puppies for premier health and pedigree, as well as raising them in our home so their personalities and happiness can blossom. Experience the love, joy, and comfort this amazing breed has to offer with a chocolate Labrador Retriever puppy of your own from Hidden Pond Labradors. Give us a call at or message us online to inquire about our available and upcoming Lab puppies!