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At what age is a Poodle fully grown? Poodles are considered fully grown adults at two years old and tend to show emotional signs of maturity, like a calmer nature, around 18 months. At a year old, most Poodles will have reached their final height or very close to it. However, most Poodles will require a full two years to fill out their chest and reach their final weight. Image Source: Pexels How big should a 6-month-old Poodle be? A six-month-old male Poodle will weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a six-month-old female Poodle will weigh about 28 to 34 pounds. Both male and female Poodles at this age stand at around 18 to 22 inches tall, which for some Poodles is already their full adult height. Pro Tip: Check out this ultimate pet parent guide with 39 dog care tips on pet first aid kits, puppy-proofing practices, training, veterinary appointments, and more! How much bigger will my Poodle get? There are a few ways to assess how much bigger your Poodle will get. The first is age. If your Poodle is less than a year old, they still have significant growth left! If your Poodle is between one and two years old, they are likely still filling out a bit, but are probably at their adult height. Do they still look oversized next to their legs and body? If this is the case, they are probably still filling out as this is a classic puppy feature! A Poodle puppy will rarely grow larger than their bigger parent, so this will also give you an idea of their maximum size. What is the size of a full-grown Poodle? According to the American Kennel Club Official Poodle Standards , an adult male Poodle is 60 to 70 pounds while an adult female Poodle weighs between 40 and 50 pounds. By these standards, full-grown Poodles will be over 15 inches tall when measuring from the ground to the highest point of their shoulders while standing. Most Standard Poodles will stand between 18 and 24 inches tall. Smart lifestyle choices are essential in keeping your Poodle happy and healthy. The Veterinary Centers of America recommend a long walk, jog, or intense play to fulfill their daily exercise needs. Poodles were bred as retrievers and, as such, are keen on games involving retrieving like fetch. Many Poodles also enjoy swimming. Due to their full coats, Poodles can put on excess weight without their pet parents realizing it. Poodles are not overly prone to weight issues with a balanced diet, but their coat can disguise weight changes. Their full coats also require regular upkeep like brushing and combing every other day, professional grooming every six weeks or so, and watching for potential eye problems. Poodles are prone to weeping eyes and eye irritation from lashes or hair, so keeping their eye area free of long hair is ideal. As a purebred dog breed, Poodles are more susceptible to genetic health problems. Many of these genetic health problems can be screened for early on using DNA technology. These early screenings can help you and your veterinarian prevent and minimize health complications from these genetic diseases. A bove all else, regular veterinary care is the best way to make sure your Poodle stays healthy. Between health screenings, regular veterinary care, bloodwork, x-rays , dental cleanings , and more, your veterinarian is your best resource in caring for your precious Poodle puppy. Be aware, vet visits can quickly become expensive - especially when immediate treatment or surgery is needed for an emergency or illness. With many treatments and surgeries costing thousands of dollars, this can quickly put pet parents in a pinch should the worst happen to their pet. Poodles are larger dogs, which can also increase the price of treatment. This is where pet insurance comes in. Pet insurance reimburses you for out-of-pocket veterinary costs and provides a safety net should the worst happen to your Poodle. As purebred dogs, Poodles are more prone to genetic health problems, like bloat or hip dysplasia, which can quickly become expensive to treat. Final Considerations Poodle puppies grow into elegant, proud dogs who are true aristocrats of the dog kingdom. We know how much your Poodle pup means to you and that they deserve the best! Give yourself peace of mind today when you use Pawlicy Advisor to compare personalized pet insurance quotes from the top Poodle pet insurance companies. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Proper care for the Poodle will involve many aspects that will all work in combination to maintain excellent health and promote learning and good behavioral habits. It is important to establish a foundation of proper care during the puppy stage that will carry over throughout the Poodle's life. We will discuss: The items that you should have to care for a Poodle puppy Details on the 5 most important tips for proper care - Feeding, house training, offering the right amount of exercise, grooming and how to offer a healthy environment. Toy Poodles and Mini's will be puppies for the 1st year; standards mature at a somewhat slower rate and are considered to be puppies until the age of 2 years old. During this time, much care is needed for both physical growth and mental development. Bringing your new Poodle home is not as simple as just picking up your new family member from the breeder. Good care involves planning ahead. It helps to have all needed items well in advance so that you can focus on the puppy without having to rush out for a needed supply items. One of the most important elements to be aware of is that no matter what the puppy has been fed since he or she began eating solid food, you should have the exact same brand on hand. Quickly switching foods can cause upset stomach and other issues…and in the case of a puppy it can be the cause of hypoglycemia. A slow change must be made. If you opt to go with a different brand or to home cook, have enough of the 'old' food on hand for several weeks, as well as the 'new' so that that you can make gradual changeover. A quality dog bed — A new puppy will feel stress going to even the best of new homes. This is why making sure that you have a nice, soft, comfortable dog bed is important. You should show your Poodle that this is the area in which he can rest, sleep or just get away from noise when things seem to overwhelming. If you will be leaving your puppy home alone during the day, it is best to have the bed placed in the area where he will be staying. A gated off section of a room or inside a canine playpen works well. The entrance to this can be left open when you are home with your puppy can of course, closed off when you are away. In this way, the puppy will become accustomed to the area. If you will be home with your puppy, place this in the corner of room that is frequently used but not chaotic. Dogs like to have their own quiet spot, but not feel isolated. Walking and ID accessories — Along with a retractable leash and a collar for ID purposes, it is highly recommended to have a harness for your puppy. Toy Poodles no matter what the age and all Mini and Standard puppies should have on a harness and not a collar when they are on a leash. When a leash is connected to a dog collar, this can create too much tension on the neck, which can cause collapsed trachea. The trachea windpipe is protected by rings of cartilage…when this happens, those rings collapse in, causing pain and breathing problems. These can be purchased at a pet supply store and come in many unique and interesting designs so that your Poodle always looks stylish. If you are not sure which harness would be best for your Poodle puppy, you may wish to look to both 'Accessories' and 'Clothing- Harness' in the Poodle Specialty Shoppe. A Car Safety Seat - Long ago cars did not even have seat belts for humans. But now, of course, we all know how many lives they save. The very same is true for dogs. Even if you are a conscientious driver, you cannot be in control of those who are driving near you. Be sure to secure your Poodle into a canine car safety seat. All it takes is 1 second of you having to quickly brake for your Poodle to go sliding off of the seat, completely unprotected. These are also great for dogs that are prone to car sickness. A raised booster seat will assist a puppy in being able to look out of the window which reduces motion sickness. However, choosing high quality toys that can stand up to continual chewing and hold a puppy's interest is better. Puppies are full of energy and filled with curiosity; having a good supply of toys at all times will be very helpful. Puppies that are in the teething phase will be experiencing discomfort and teething toys will help to sooth sore gums and offer a chewing outlet See also: Poodle teething Grooming Supplies - Poodle care certainly involves proper grooming. This includes nails, dewclaws, bathes, drying, wrapping, trimming, clipping and topknots. See also: Bathing a Poodle Clothes - Particularly for tiny toy Poodles, protection against the elements should be implemented as needed. During cold, icy winters the use of canine shoes or paw wax helps protect paw pads from ice melt chemicals and aids with traction. A sweater or cute vest can keep a small Poodle puppy from becoming chilled. During hot months, shoes help protect sensitive paws from hot surfaces. Bowls - Plastic bowls often contain heavy dyes that can cause staining on a Poodle's coat. In addition, tiny scratches that easily develop in plastic bowls can also harbor dangerous bacteria. It is best to use stainless steel or ceramic bowls for both food and water. Dishes should shallow so that a puppy can easily reach both food and water without bumping their heads or straining to reach. Toys and Mini's may like raised bowls. However, Standards - who are prone to bloat- should only eat and drink from bowls that are at floor level. Free feed until 3 months old leaving food out at all times and then give your puppy 3 meals per day plus healthy snacks. Please choose your food wisely; cheaper foods with fillers will not offer the proper nutrition needed to aid with the rapid growth that is associated with the puppy phase. You will find that if you reserve snacks and treats as rewards for training, housebreaking and command training will go smoother. Read more: Feeding a Poodle 2- Start house training right away, keeping in mind that it is your commitment to the process that will bring about success. Generally, housebreaking takes 2 to 3 months. If your Poodle puppy will be expected to use an outdoor area, do not focus too much on indoor training when the pup is home along, since it is difficult for puppies to learn 2 different methods. Do keep in mind that young puppies should not be over-exercised since it can interfere with growth plate development; however a daily 20 to 30 minute per walk is perfect. Walks allow a puppy to release pent up energy, it expands their view of the world and is a good staring point for socialization techniques and learning proper heeling. Poodles are generally very active dogs. Aside from a walk each day, this breed loves to run , jump and show off their agility capabilities. Playing catch, Frisbee or training your Poodle to jump through hoops will keep them in good health, both physically and mentally. See also: Poodle Exercise Requirements 4- Begin a routine of grooming and care. While many puppies will balk at the idea of being brushed or having teeth cleaned, doing these tasks on a regular basis allows a puppy to become accustomed to being touched and taken care of. Taking care of the teeth during the puppy stage is important since dental hygiene will affect the adult teeth that have not yet erupted. Read more: Poodle dental care 5- Limit stress, focus on fun. One of the most important elements of Poodle care is to offer a loving, safe environment. Puppies and dogs are sensitive to their owner's moods and the atmosphere of the house in general. Puppies can become easily stressed in noisy, chaotic homes. Puppies should be given a designated area to retreat and rest if feeling overwhelmed. Often, a gated off area that is secured when a pup is home alone, but the entrance is open when owners are home works best. Speak to your pup in a pleasant voice and remember that positive reinforcement for good behavior works much better than scolding for bad behavior. Take time to puppy proof the home, clearing the floors of any small items and stowing away shoes and other objects to higher ground. This should be done before bringing a puppy home but also on a regular basis. See also: What it means when a Poodle puppy shakes - If a Poodle is suddenly shivering, you'll want to look to these top reasons. Poodle Winter Care - Everything you need to know about caring for your Poodle during the wintertime. Other Articles: Apricot Poodles - This is a super popular coat color. Details and photos. Black Poodles - Another gorgeous color. Poodle tear stains - Putting to rest the old myths on what works. A list of the most effective at-home treatments to remove stubborn stains. Poodle hair tangles - Due to the nature of the curly coat, tangles are not uncommon yet should be removed as soon as possible with a method that does not affect hair growth. Are You a Member Yet? When you sign up to become a Member of the site, this allows you to receive a friendly notice when new pages of information have been added. Always something to help keep your Poodle happy and healthy. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us.

Meet Our Dogs Our dogs are more than just pets — they are family! Our dogs grow up in a loving, family oriented environment and are socialized from a young age. All of our moms and dads have passed genetic testing specific to their breed. Nora is just a happy girl with a happy heart and she passes this on to her sweet puppies! She loves to be loved and gives it right back! Margot is a Bernese with a big heart! Ivy lives with friends who have been guardians for several of our girls. They describe her as sweet, quirky, and the biggest lap dog ever! Ivy insists on being close to her people, preferably touching! Bebe is goofy and affectionate, loving and silly, very much a Bernese. She is so engaged and careful with her babies, an adorable dog and Mama through and through! She is a talker like her Mama, loves the family bunny, and adores her family. Millie loves to learn and is proud of her accomplishments. Millie makes her guardian family laugh and the favorite part of her day is when the whole family is together! Pure sweetness with just a dash of mischief ; that would be Pumpkin! Rosey is such a good mix of love and affection, adventure and playfulness, with just a dash of mischievousness! He has a wonderful fleece coat with big waves. Flynn is a sweet and energetic little guy, he has no trouble keeping up with the big dogs! He has produced stunning traditional tricolor litters with some of the prettiest coats we've seen! Rocky is as sweet as he is mischievous! He also fancies himself a lap dog - which is a small problem at pounds! He is a lover with the most soulful eyes! He is playful, curious, and full of energy! Sully is a "moyan" poodle which is a small standard poodle. He weighs 27 pounds and when bred with a Bernese he will produce mini - medium tricolor bernedoodles! Full of love and cheer, he keeps us on our toes! Max is one of the happiest guys we know! Arlo Male tricolor standard poodle Arlo is the epitome of a standard poodle, goofy, goofy, goofy, and intelligent! He is truly a delight, fun-loving, and energetic. Arlo is the master of the head tilt and its so cute to see his babies following suit with impressive head tilts of their very own! Every one of these girls truly made the world a better place and we are so grateful to each and every one of them! As a full time Breeder, you have to have a lot of dogs. We usually breed our dogs when they are around 18 months old, and we will breed a maximum of 3 times. If you think about that, as soon as a Mama has her first litter you need to have a new puppy in the line up so she is ready for her first breeding as your 3 year old girl is retiring. As a result we quickly had a house full of retired dogs - not a good business plan! We buy the dog, pay for all testing and medical care, but she lives with another family. All of our guardians live very close to us and we give them all the support they need. When the girl is ready to have a litter, she comes to our house to have her pups and stays with us until the puppies are weaned, usually about six weeks. Of course their guardian families come to visit too! After 3 breedings, the dog is spayed and she officially becomes the guardian families forever dog! You did such a good job, we are so lucky we found you! We kept Mala from our first litter from Snow White. Thank you for making such sweet babies! Belle has such a fun loving spirit which she passed onto each of her beautiful pups! Thanks for all of your hard work Belle, you did a wonderful job! Ramona produced a pot-potpourri of stunning, colorful puppies. She had litters as big as her heart! Thank you Ramona, you did an amazing job! Shelby is fun loving and lively! We loved delivery days with Shelby as she always gave us beautiful and unique pups! You did a great job Shelby, thank you! Willow is a delightful Bernese, her personality encompasses the best of the breed. Willow, you made so many families happy, we thank you! We love her eyes and freckles! Koda, you left a wonderful legacy, thank you! Coco loves and lives life large! She always had big litters and handled them with grace and ease. Thank you Coco - you absolutely rocked it!! They allowed us to use Grisz to sire a few litters over the years. Thank you Snow, you made the world a better place! Love you. Beazus only produced one puppy and she was a loving and attentive mama! Her daughter, Ramona, is now having her grandchildren for us! Bella is a little girl who always had big, beautiful litters! She was so patient and loving with every single one of those pups! Thank you Bella! Chama is sister to Clarke and cousin to Snow White. She produced cuddly, adorable tricolors every time! Chama, you are wonderful, we love you! Zena is a stunning Bernese from Russia. Now her daughters will be having puppies! We love you! Sicily came from Italy. Thank you Sicily, we love you. She made gorgeous babies and loved them to pieces! Thank you Stella. Georgie is spunky and loving. She adored her puppies and was a fierce Mama! We owe a special thanks to Georgie for our Bernedoodle, Spicy Tuna!! Lily is the happiest of girls! She brought love, energy, and tail wags to every puppy. A loving Mama who is now loving life! Kahlu is from the first litter we had. Kahlu had such unique puppies, every litter brought new surprises! Sophie produced beautiful big litters everytime! She brought so much fun and love to every single puppy! Thank you, Sophie, you are special! Brooklyn Standard Poodle Retired Nov. Brooklyn is a beautiful tri-color standard poodle. She had big colorful litters every time! Thank you for bringing so much joy to the world Brooklyn! Clarke, you made a lot of families very happy! Thank you! She loved her puppies so much. Thank you Bailey, you did an awesome job! Gabi is so full of fun and adventure, love and affection! She surprised us with lots of colors, patterns, and unique pups! Gabi, you left your mark! Parker is our big Panda Bear! Parker always had small litters and a huge heart. You did good Parker, thank you! Several of her pups are service dogs. Zoli, you have made a difference in the world. Tragically we lost Cru, and my heart still hurts for her. Cru will forever be at the heart of Ranch House Bernedoodles. Meet the Family Over the years myself and our grown up kids have owned at least 6 doodles and they have all been exceptional. Now we hope to bless other families with the same quality of loving pets that we have enjoyed. We live in Montrose, CO and we are excited to breed bernedoodles. Our goals for our puppies are a great temperament, good health, loving and fun personalities, and high intelligence! We work hard to assure you are getting a wonderful new family member, not just a pet. We breed our Bernedoodle puppies for outstanding temperament, exceptional conformation, and of course, most important of all, superior health. Why Daisy Hill Bernedoodles? We are not what you think of when envisioning a traditional kennel. Our dogs are part of the family. Five of them are lying around my office napping and snoring right this minute as I work on our website. Our dogs have a dog door and have run of their yard as well as full access to our home. They lay patiently beside the dining room table as we eat. They snore softly as we watch TV. They ride in the back seat of our vehicles for family outings. They go on mile walks almost daily with their housemates. But, mostly, they are a loved as part of our family. Just contact us at DaisyHillPups gmail. I have had rescue pups in the past so that could be part of the difference I see, but she is just really responsive and quick to learn and please. Thanks for all you have done! What a wonderful experience you have given to Jeanne and me. You are the best caretakers and breeders ever. She is a beautiful mini bernedoodle, so well-adjusted, easy to train, and truly the delight of our family! After dreaming and researching Bernedoodle breeders for nearly a year, we were thrilled to find Daisy Hill Bernedoodles right here in Colorado Springs! Cat and Randy are genuine, kind people with a true love for their dogs and a sincere interest in breeding healthy, beautiful puppies. I am so grateful for the ENS Early Neurological Stimulation work they did with the puppies during that critical early neurological development stage and the continued care and puppy socialization they did during those formative weeks leading up to when we got to bring her home. We enjoyed being able to meet the momma dogs when they were pregnant and visit the puppies multiple times. Thank you Cat and Randy! She loves everyone and has made several doggy and people friends that adore her. We get compliments on her behavior and looks everywhere we go. Thank you guys for doing such a good job with her. We are in love.

This article gives guidance on how to crate train an older dog. A List Of Dog Crates Highly Recommended By Labrador Training HQ A high quality, durable crate of the correct size and type is essential to guarantee safety, comfort and to get the best out of the crate training experience. But with so many styles, types and sizes available, selecting a suitable crate is no easy task. So we at Labrador Training HQ have taken the hard work out of the hunt by putting together a hand picked selection of the best crates available that you can see by reading this article. Travel safety — A crate is a very useful tool to confine your dog safely during travel by car or by air and reduces the stress they feel due to being in a comfortable and familiar crate. Security — A dog learns to view their crate as a special place all of their own, where no human ventures and they can get away from it all to be alone when they desire. A crate is the one tool that can be used to dramatically speed up the time needed to train your lab to toilet outside and to improve their bladder and bowel control. Protecting your possessions — A crate is a useful tool in teaching your puppy to be fixated on chew toys and not your furniture and shoes. A quick note about boarding and kennels. When our Linus got sick he had to stay in the kennel at the vets office while he recovered. Thank goodness he was crate trained. When I came in to stay with him he was comfortable in his crate with an IV hanging out of his leg. These are just some of the benefits you and your Labrador can enjoy if you take the time and trouble to crate train your dog. Is Crate Training Always Successful? Sadly not. Dogs are individuals and come with their own likes and dislikes. So although a crate can be used to benefit the vast majority of dogs, there will always be a select few that just will not enjoy or accept being crated. It helped our last 3 puppies Charlie, Doni, and Downey get used to their crate in only a few nights. This is particularly true for the occasional adopted dog for which their background is unknown. Dogs up for adoption may have had bad and traumatic experiences with crates earlier on in their lives, where owners used a crate as a form of punishment or misused a crate amounting to imprisonment. Obviously in these cases, a crate should not be used. These cases though are the exception and not the rule. The vast majority of dogs learn to love and enjoy spending time in their crate. I believe everybody should at least educate themselves on the subject and give it a go. By soaking up the knowledge in this guide and following the steps I outline for crate training, you and your Lab can enjoy the rewards that using a crate provides. Your Lab will be happier, safer, more secure, less likely to engage in destructive behavior and from these facts you can enjoy a greater peace of mind that you are doing the very best for your dog. One of our favorite features is the crate comes with a divider that allows you to adjust the size of your crate as your puppy grows. I will always try my best to respond to every one of them. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Print Crate training your Lab puppy, why you should and a guide on how Labrador puppies are so cute and cuddly, it almost seems wrong to put them in a crate. But crate training is one of the best things you can do for your new puppy and for yourself. There are many benefits to crate training your retriever puppy, but it is a process. Learn how to properly crate train a Labrador puppy and why you should start crate training as soon as possible. Why should I crate train my Labrador? While some people think putting a dog in a crate is cruel, experts disagree. Most veterinarians, trainers, and breeders recommend crate training dogs from a young age. Dogs are den animals and often feel most safe when they are in a tight, confined area. A crate can represent this den-like experience for your puppy and give them a place to retreat when they feel stressed, confused, or just need some time alone. Dogs that are crate trained properly do not fear the crate, in fact, they love it and will often seek it out for a nap. Easy and safe transport Crates are the safest way to transport dogs. A dog contained in a crate cannot move around within your vehicle, get in your way while driving or create distractions. In addition, you can buy crates that are 5-star crash tested , possibly giving your dog superior protection if you are involved in an accident. Crates help with housebreaking As discussed in our post on housebreaking your Labrador puppy , crate training can make housebreaking easier and quicker. Crates allow you, as owner, some off-time — time when you do not have to be constantly watching your puppy for potty accidents. In addition, crates help encourage your puppy to hold it, to wait a little longer before going potty, since most puppies hate to mess their bed. Note: My husband and I are professional retriever trainers, so any products listed here are items we use on an almost daily basis. We only recommend products we know are good quality and will stand the test of time. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission, but all opinions and recommendations are my own. Learn more. Can help hunting dogs with blind manners and patience Hunting dogs often need to sit still and quiet for hours on end. Sometime in dog huts or MoMarsh stands. Crates can help hunting dogs by teaching them there is a place that they should simply lay down, rest and keep quiet. Better dog to family relationships and more control Crate training your puppy can provide many benefits for your entire family. Crate training your puppy at a young age means that when you need to put them in a crate they will go in willingly and without a fight. As professional retriever trainers, we crate train all the puppies we raise as custom trained dogs. We also crate train all our own dogs. We find that it makes for a better adjusted puppy all around. Choosing the right crate for crate training Lab puppy Getting ready to crate train your puppy means you need to buy a crate. And the size and type of crate do matter. Size of crate for crate training retrievers You want the crate to be large enough that your puppy is comfortable laying in the crate, but not so big that your puppy can walk around. The puppy should feel snug and protected, but not uncomfortable. The unfortunate thing about crate training this way, is that it means that as your puppy grows, you will need progressively larger crates. While inconvenient and bit more costly, this really is the best way to crate train your puppy. But if you do not wish to buy multiple crates, there are other methods. Some people buy a large crate, the size their dog will need as an adult and then section off some of the crate. Blocking off a portion of the crate will give the puppy that tighter, den-like, experience and ensure that the puppy cannot walk around inside the crate. While this can work, be careful what you use to section the crate off. You would not want to use a material that can be chewed or ingested by your puppy. Puppies are naturally chewers, so keep this in mind. Type of crate for crate training retriever Technically, any kind of crate will work for crate training. But over the years we have found that some crates just simply work better. Plastic crates seem to be the best option. They can be found easily at a local pet store, superstore, or even bought online. There are some inexpensive options that provide the protection and privacy of a den-like experience for the dogs. In addition, they have a solid bottom so should your dog get sick, or if you are in the process of housebreaking, cleanup is rather easy. Wire crates , the kind that you can see right through do not seem to work as well as plastic crates. Wire crates are wide open, they do not provide dogs the opportunity to get away and relax. The wire offers little protection and privacy, and many dogs do not like them as dens. We discuss crate options in more detail here. How to crate train a Lab puppy? Crate training is easiest when done with young puppies. We recommend starting crate training the day you bring the pup home from the breeder. Often this is at around weeks old. The sooner you start, the easier the process will be. Crate training can be done with older dogs, but it may take more effort and patience on your part. Step 1 — Let puppy explore the crate The first step is to place the crate in an area that is frequented by the puppy. Prop the door open in some way, a small bungee works well and let your puppy explore the crate on his own. Puppies are naturally curious, so often they will walk right into the crate on their own. It is best if you do not move the crate around the house. Instead, find a place for the crate where the dog will spend a majority of their time and leave it there. The crate should not be right next to a bed or a bedroom. Your puppy will be sleeping in their crate and your puppy will make more noise and wake up more if the crate is close to you. Also, your puppy is bound to make some noise the first few nights in the crate. Step 2- Establish a routine Develop a routine of putting your puppy down to nap inside the crate. You can put one or two small toys in the crate if you wish and a small towel that you do not care if it gets ruined. I know this sounds self-explanatory, but I have seen it. Also, do not put a dog bed in the crate. A dog bed is too big and bulky to fit into crates well and your puppy will simply chew it to pieces or accidently have a potty accident on it. Once that happens, the bed will have the scent of potty and will work against your housebreaking efforts. That is natural and nothing to be worried about. Simply walk away from the crate and allow the puppy to settle down. Depending on the nature of your puppy this may take a few minutes to an hour or more. It is vital that you stay away from the crate during this time. If you follow this advice, your puppy will quickly learn to be content in the crate and over time the noise will become less and less until they finally understand they must stay in the crate. Step 3 — Watch the clock While I suggest you do not take your puppy out of the crate while they are making noise, you do need to keep an eye on how long your puppy has been in the crate. You do not want your puppy to have an accident in the crate if you can help it. With week old puppies, I start by leaving the puppy in the crate for 1 hour at a time followed by playtime. As the puppy gets older, they can naturally hold their bladder longer. This should go without saying, but you should never leave your dog in a crate 24 hours a day every day. Socialization of young puppies is vital. Block the crate door open again. The door should be blocked open anytime the puppy has not been placed in the crate for some quiet time. The puppy will see or smell the toys and go inside the crate to get them. Some people play crate games. They will throw a toy inside the crate so that the puppy must go inside the crate to retrieve it. These games can help your dog become extremely comfortable with their crate. Over time you will notice that your puppy is not afraid to go inside their crate while the door is open. Sometimes, they will even go inside the crate and lay down when they are tired. This is the reaction you are seeking. How long does it take to crate train a dog? There is no set amount of time it takes to crate train a dog. Each dog will progress on their own schedule. But if you continue to place your puppy inside the crate on a routine basis and make the crate available to your puppy at all times, you will reap the benefits of having successfully crate trained your puppy. Final thoughts on how to crate train a Labrador puppy Crate training is a greatly beneficial thing for Labrador puppies and other retriever breeds. It can mimic a den for these beautiful animals and give them a safe and secure place where they can rest without stress or fear. This helps them with emotional stability and can curb behavior issues. It also makes for a more enjoyable home life with less dog induced strife. How to crate train a Labrador puppy. You can find a summary of these in my crate training schedule chart below Stage 1 Introduction to crate training for puppies from 8 weeks old This stage covers the first week that you bring your puppy home. Your objective at stage 1 is simply to get the puppy used to being in and around the crate with the door open. Leave the door open Start by placing puppy in his crate frequently and each time you place him in there drop several little edible treats through the roof for him. Just let him come straight out again when he has finished his treats. This introduces the crate as a fun and enjoyable place to be. He will soon come to associate this phrase with going into his crate for a treat Closing the door briefly The next step is to close the crate door momentarily and then open it again. Leave it shut only long enough for the puppy to finish his treat and notice that the door is closed. Then let him out. Do not wait until he gets upset or cries. Repeat many, many times during the course of the next day or two. If he is left alone at night whilst he is still homesick he is likely to howl, and howling in his new crate is not a habit we want to establish. Tending to your puppy during the night If the box is right up against the side of your bed, you can put your hand in and comfort him if he cries. Moving your puppy downstairs at night After the first three or four nights, or by the end of the first week, your puppy can be placed in his crate in the kitchen before you go up to bed at night. So if you put him to bed at midnight, you will probably need to get up around 5am to let him out for a wee to begin with. If a puppy has fallen asleep in his crate and slept for more than a couple of hours then you will need to let him out if he wakes up crying. Getting more sleep! If all goes well, you can stretch this five hours out by 15 minutes or so a night until you are getting seven hours sleep. If he wets the bed you will need to get up earlier the next night. And some puppies will be 12 to 14 weeks before they can cope this long. You can find lot more information on teaching your puppy to be clean and dry in our potty training sections. Crate training during the day There is no immediate need to crate your new puppy during the day for more than a few minutes at a time. The main purpose of crating a puppy during the day is to Help the puppy learn to hold onto the contents of his bladder for a bit longer. To keep him safe when you are busy for short periods, or if you need to leave the house for a while. To give him chance to calm down or a break from small children. However, you do need to get the puppy used to spending longer periods in the crate in preparation for being left alone from time to time when he is older. So gradually, you will accustom the puppy to a few longer spells in his crate. These are tough hollow rubber toys that you fill with mushy food and freeze. You can freeze several Kongs at once by standing them on a baking tray in the freezer. Each time you put the puppy in his crate for more than a couple of minutes, you will leave a frozen food filled Kong in there to keep him company. Puppies love these and will soon grow to associate the crate with the pleasure of the frozen Kong. How to get the puppy used to longer crate times Once you have got to the end of the first week and the puppy has accepted the crate as a nice place to be, the next task is to get the puppy to accept the closed door for longer periods of time. This may take a day or two. Place him in the crate with his frozen kong and close the door for 30 seconds. The idea is to leave the door closed for a few seconds longer each time you crate the puppy. But it is very important only to open the door when the puppy has been silent for several seconds. What to do if the puppy cries in his crate If the puppy starts to whimper or howl you will need to turn away from the crate and ignore him. Wait for the silence as he stops crying and gets to work on his puppy kong. Tell him what a good dog he is. Let him out immediately and go back to much briefer periods of closed door for a while. Try ten seconds or five. Build up again gradually, but do not be tempted to avoid crating him because it upsets him. Once the puppy is happy in his crate, you can use it to help with his potty training. Until then, make sure that you crate him for very short periods when you know his bladder is empty. Otherwise he will wet himself when he gets upset. Puppies that cry need crating more often! If your puppy whines in the crate, you need to crate him more often not less, and for shorter periods. Check out our in-depth article on coping with a crying puppy for more information Just make sure that each time he is crated is very, very brief to begin with. That way he will learn that being crated is not a big deal Warning: if you open the crate door whilst your puppy is howling, he will howl longer and harder next time! Build up slowly to a minute, then two minutes, then three, five, seven, ten, fifteen minutes and so on. How long can a puppy be left in a crate People often ask how long a puppy can be left alone in his crate. For puppies three to six months old I think two hours is a maximum, and for puppies under three months, one hour. If you need to leave your puppy for longer than this, then you need to consider a puppy proof room or pen where water and puppy pads are always available, or even a weatherproof outdoor kennel and run. This involves putting puppy pads down in a large puppy pen or puppy proofed room so that your puppy always has access to a toilet area. You can find out much more about overcoming the problems of being a working puppy parent in this article: combining a puppy with full time work. Stage 3 Training your puppy to go into his crate on command! As your puppy grows bigger, picking him up and putting him in his crate becomes more of a physical event! Provided you are not leaving your puppy alone for too long, he should be happy to go willingly into his crate. This can be achieved through training. This will probably take a couple of weeks. Maybe more if your puppy really does not like his crate at the moment. Have several training sessions each day — at least three. And do 20 or 30 repetitions of the following exercise in each session. This will take you about five minutes. If you are have never used one before, check out this article before you begin: Charging your clicker. Imagine a zone around the crate. It should not be so small that the dog avoids it altogether. A couple of feet in each direction is fine. The object is to get your puppy to choose to enter this zone. You are teaching him to chose to approach the crate. EXERCISE 2 entering the crate doorway In this exercise, you are going to click and treat the dog for putting a nose, or a paw through the opening into a crate. For some dogs this is too big a jump and you will need to work on a smaller crate zone first. We are moving the goalposts and the dog will be surprised when you do not reward him for entering the zone. He will quickly try something different. Have the dog in the room with you Make sure the crate door is wide open Click and treat each time the dog enters the crate zone Repeat five times Throw the treat outside the zone so that he has to re-enter to get the next reward. The next time he enters the zone, wait for him to go closer to the crate and put his nose in the opening What if he fails to do this? Repeat from step 3 until the dog repeatedly puts his nose through the crate door. Now you can stop rewarding him for simply entering the zone. It just takes longer with some dogs than others. Use his entire food ration if necessary. Remember, if you have to go out, scoop him up without a word, and place him in there bodily. Do not use the clicker or any other part of this process, or attempt to lure him in. You going out is a punishment in his mind. Behavior that is punished will diminish. When you click, he will come dashing out again for his treat. Again, we begin the exercise with something we know he can already do Have the dog in the room with you Make sure the crate door is wide open Click and treat each time the dog puts his nose through the crate doorway Repeat five times Throw each treat outside the zone so that he has to re-enter to get the next reward. The next time he puts his nose through the doorway, withold the click. Wait for him to go further in Repeat and gradually raise the criteria you are setting so that more and more of the dog must be through the doorway to get a reward. The exercise is done when the dog repeatedly goes right inside his crate. With a dog that is not crate-shy, you can often work through these three Exercises in a day or two. EXERCISE 4 spending time in the crate Have the dog in the room with you Make sure the crate door is wide open Click and treat each time the dog goes inside the crate Repeat five times The next time he enters the crate withold the click and treat for two seconds If he remains in the crate click and treat If he leaves the crate wait for him to re-enter Repeat from step five until he can wait 2 seconds in the crate and then increase to 3 seconds Work your way up to ten seconds When the dog can cope with ten seconds waiting in the crate, you are ready to close the door. To begin with this will be momentary EXERCISE 5 closing the door Have the dog in the room with you Make sure the crate door is wide open Click and treat after 10 seconds, each time the dog goes inside the crate Repeat five times The next time he enters the crate close the door and immediately open it again Wait a few seconds then If he remains in the crate click and treat If he leaves the crate wait for him to re-enter Repeat from step five until he will go into the crate, watch you open and close the door, and remain in the crate for a few more seconds after you have opened the door. We are nearly there! Use the cue you have chosen. You know the procedure now. We want him to have absorbed the association between this cue and the act of entering the crate. Now it is time to use the cue in advance of the behavior. Once the dog is repeatedly racing into the crate on your cue, we need to make sure he can distinguish this command from other commands. In this case the dog is not discriminating between different cues, but rather making assumptions about what game you are going to play. So the next step in training is to mix in another cue. If he is confused, and he may be, show him what you want, just like before. You now have a dog that actually understands the meaning of In Your Crate and happily complies with your command. It is time for him to adapt to being confined after being told to go in there. Start slowly and build up EXERCISE 9 adding duration Place a Kong with food in it, or some treats on a slow feed bowl into the crate without your dog spotting you Cue the dog into the crate call him into the room first Shut the door and leave it closed for one minute Open the door again and ignore the dog. It is up to him if he stays in the crate or comes out Repeat from step 1 gradually increasing the time you wait before opening the door Vary the length of time you keep the door closed. Sometimes two minutes, sometimes as much as fifteen minutes. Now you can begin to send the dog into his crate for longer periods, such as when you go out for an hour or so. Maintenance tips Send the puppy into his crate often, not just when you need to. Make sure there is always a tasty treat or a Kong in there waiting for him Sometimes when you send him in, close the door If you know you are going to go out shut him in at least ten minutes before you start getting ready to leave If you know you are going to go out always leave him with a Kong full of frozen food When you are not going out, vary the times he is shut in from two to thirty minutes Send him in from time to time without closing the door Provided your dog is not left overly long in a crate on a regular basis, this should overcome any shyness he has about going in there. Dogs of any age can be trained to crate on cue using this system. For more information on using a clicker check out : Ten great reasons to start clicker training Stage 4 Growing up By twelve weeks or three months old, many puppies will be sleeping 7 hours or more at night and going happily into their crates on cue, if they have been taught to do this. When to let your puppy out of the crate at night If all goes well, by about six months of age, your Labrador puppy should be clean and dry in the house, and sleeping soundly through the night in his crate. At this point, many puppy owners breath a big sigh of relief and start to look forward to the prospect of removing this massive and annoying crate from their kitchen for good. So, at what age is it OK to start leaving a puppy loose in the kitchen overnight? And how do you get your dog used to a basket or dog bed, rather than sleeping in his crate? Age related crate training schedules Most people are reluctant to give out information on how long a puppy should be crated, or what to expect at different stages, because puppies are so different from one another. So, I have included a rough guide or puppy crate training chart above. It really is just a rough guide. Your best approach is to simply follow the four stages outlined above, from start to finish, and not worry too much about where your dog is at the moment. Crate Training and Toilet Training Crate training Done right, crate training is possibly the best thing you will ever do for your dog. Crate training is a very popular way of keeping puppies safe and is a highly effective tool to fast track toilet training. The dog comes to see the crate as his own space, his den, his safe-haven, and his favourite place to sleep. Some puppies love their crates immediately, while others need a little time to acclimate. Our labradors are crate trained very early, and by the time you pick up your puppy from us, he will already be familiar with a crate. Most dogs quickly choose a small area, such a corner of a room, or under a table, or near a couch where they like to relax. Crate training techniques Make the crate comfortable with bedding and safe toys. Encourage him to enter the crate of his own will, by tossing some treats inside the door of the crate. Provide a crate-mountable water bucket. For a puppy, the bucket should be shallow with only a small amount of water in the bottom. Once the puppy is comfortable inside the crate with you nearby, gradually move further away and out of sight, building up the duration. Feed him his meals inside the crate to continue a positive association with the crate. If the puppy whines or barks in his crate, wait until he is quiet before opening the door and letting him out. The process of crate-acclimatisation can be adapted to adult dogs too. The crate is a not a punishment tool. It is a safe and comfortable place to go, so do not punish him by confining him to his crate when he has done something wrong. The crate is not a long-term confinement means. Dogs should be allowed to exercise and freely move about in the yard, a secure area, or within the home. The puppy only goes into his crate for short periods of time, and to sleep at night. He may sleep in there for scheduled rest periods each day and of course during the night , when you have visitors or are cooking in the kitchen, or anytime he needs a nap or quiet time to relax. A young puppy has limited bladder control. If you leave him there too long, you are forcing him to soil his bed which dogs absolutely hate soiling their own bed. This will cause him to be very upset and is very unfair. Always toilet him before asking him to go to his crate. Keep reading below for toilet-training lessons. Whining and barking are fundamental aspects of puppyhood, especially in young puppies. Make sure to never reinforce the behaviour by letting him out of the crate while he is crying or whining. Wait a short time until he is quiet before letting him out. This way he learns that he is allowed out when he is quiet and calm, and that yelling does not get his way providing you have met all his physical needs such as toileting, feeding and watering. The crate should be big enough for the puppy to stand and turn around comfortably. If the crate is too big, your puppy might find a corner to soil in. To make the crate more den-like and feel safe, put a blanket or crate cover over the crate, leaving one end or side open for movement of air. This has a calming effect for most dogs. Good places to keep the crate are near your kitchen or family room. A radio or television playing in the background or a clock ticking nearby, may help to calm the dog when you are out of his sight in the house, as this can mask environmental noises that can stimulate him to vocalize. Toileting training or house-training your puppy Probably the first thing puppy-owners wish for is a house-trained puppy. This achievable and only requires you understand your puppy and are consistent. Your puppy has no choice about going to the toilet, it is the most natural thing in the world. If your puppy has run of the house unsupervised, you are setting him up to fail — toileting inside the house is inevitable and impedes house-training. Crate training helps fast track the process because a puppy never desires to soil his own bed he is the one who has to sleep there. Crate him for his meal, take him out the toilet on his leash about 10 minutes after his meal and stay with him to observe he has done his business. Puppies have very little control over their small bladder, and have no idea that there is a right and wrong place to toilet. If you can avoid accidents as much as possible from the start, you will make faster progress — this means the more effort you put in at the beginning the better things will be. Puppies will toilet where they have been before. So, if an accident occurs, be sure to clean up very well, as he will smell that is where he has been before and likely try to go there again. You have to teach your puppy where he needs to be before he takes a pee or poop. Times when your puppy is guaranteed to toilet: within 10 minutes of any food or water or play, and when he wakes. These are the times you especially need to take him to his toilet spot. Signs of an impending pee or poop include: circling and sniffing, a bulging anus, agitation and whimpering. A labrador puppy can be toilet-trained by the age of 4 months old if you are diligent and consistent in your toilet-training. Be aware that despite all your hard effort, the occasional accident might still occur. You missed the signs that he needed to go. Never punish a puppy for an accident. Toilet him sooner the next time and praise him. At night, carry him out quietly no talking to him , ask him to go to the toilet when you place him down in his toilet area, and quietly return him to his bed so he will resettle. Crate of the correct size for your dog Treats Blanket or dog bed According to the American Kennel Club, Labs are one of the most popular breeds in America , and for good reasons. Many love to play fetch, and others are glad to be your running buddy. You have a long fun life ahead of you with your Labrador retriever puppy. Should that life include crate training? Crate training a Lab puppy is actually a good idea. Image used with permission by copyright holder Are Labs easy to crate train? You may have some pet-parent guilt about putting your fur baby in a crate. The good news is that Labs often make crate training easy on their parents. They love making their humans happy, so they take to all kinds of training well, including crates. Every puppy is different, though. Your veterinarian or a trainer can help you through any troubles that may arise. Crate training a Lab puppy is one of the best ways you can help them thrive in their new home. Experts say your new pup will reap many benefits from having a crate, including: Easier potty training. Housebreaking can be one of the tallest tasks new pet parents have to work on with their Lab puppies. Crate training makes it a little easier and less messy. Reduced stress. Labs tend to be adaptable, but a new home can be stressful for anyone. Even social pets need to chill sometimes. Consider it a space for self-care, kind of like your bedroom may be for you. Safer car rides. A crate is one of the safest spots for a pet in the car. Image used with permission by copyright holder How to crate train a Lab puppy Though Labs tend to take to training quickly, they still need some guidance from you. Step 1: Select the correct crate size for your puppy. Labs will generally grow to weigh 55 to 80 pounds. You want a space your pet can move around in comfortably. They should be able to sit , lie down, stand, and turn. The puppy may soil the space if they have enough room. Most crates will have height and weight specifications on them, and once you have that information, you can purchase one. Step 2: Make the crate comfy. You probably made your bedroom into a comfortable spot for you to sleep at night. Make it a cozy hangout spot by putting some blankets or a bed in there. Toys keep it fun.

Please keep in mind that these are estimates to give you a general idea of how tall your French Bulldog puppy will be. At what age is a French Bulldog fully grown? A French Bulldog will reach close to their full weight around eight to twelve months old and maximum height around nine to twelve months of age. French Bulldogs will continue to slowly fill out anywhere between nine to fifteen months of age. They are considered fully grown around 12 to 14 months old, but may continue to put on muscle until they are two years old. How big should a 6-month-old French Bulldog be? A male French Bulldog will weigh between 17 and 22 pounds at six months old and have an average weight of .A six-month-old female French Bulldog will weigh between 13 and 20 pounds with an average weight of 17 pounds. Both male and female French Bulldogs will stand around seven to nine inches on average. Learn all about your puppy's physical characteristics, breed history, personality traits, and more in our comprehensive guide. French Bulldogs usually reach their full height when they are between nine and twelve months old. As short dogs, French Bulldogs barely double in height from three months of age to 1 year old. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, this is a telltale sign that they are still growing! What is the size of a full-grown French Bulldog? Most female French Bulldogs will weigh about 17 to 24 pounds, while male French Bulldogs weigh about 20 to 28 pounds. Both male and female French Bulldogs will stand 11 to 13 inches tall and have a muscular, heavy-boned build. How do I make sure my French Bulldog is healthy? As a purebred dog breed, French Bulldogs are more prone to genetic health problems. In particular, French Bulldogs are predisposed to skin problems, ear infections, diarrhea, eye problems, spinal injury and respiratory distress caused by their brachycephalic syndrome. Brachycephalic syndrome causes them to have a flat nose and shorter esophagus, creating a heightened risk of breathing problems. The Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine found that about half of French Bulldogs have significant breathing problems and .In addition to this, French Bulldogs are prone to obesity , which can lead to type 2 diabetes, osteoarthritis, disc disease, high blood pressure, heart disease, and further respiratory issues. Pro Tip: Compare pet insurance plans to save on veterinary expenses and ensure that the cost of care never interferes with the essential treatment your pet deserves. Most French Bulldogs do well with a leisurely walk or active playtime. Be careful with taking your French Bulldog out in hot weather though as their brachycephalic syndrome makes them prone to overheating and heat stroke. As a general rule temperatures over 80 degrees should be avoided for French Bulldogs. As loving pet parents, we never want to think the worst could happen to our furbaby. However, we must prepare for both everyday costs, like vaccinations and veterinarian appointments, and emergencies. Dog Insurance is here to help you with emergency costs, as well as expected costs like veterinarian care see the wellness options many pet insurance plans offer. Only .Pet insurance can help you provide your pup with quality routine and emergency care. Some people can predict the future. For everyone else, there's pet insurance. Use Pawlicy Advisor to easily compare plans from top providers so you can find a great deal with great coverage. Key Takeaways On average, French Bulldogs weigh between pounds at age one, with inches in height. French Bulldogs stop growing around months old, so pet owners should be mindful of weight gain after their first birthday. As a breed, French Bulldogs are exceptionally prone to obesity, which can worsen breathing problems and lead to a number of secondary health concerns. Use our French Bulldog growth chart to monitor your puppy's weight and ensure they stay within a healthy range. Pet insurance promotes positive veterinary care and offsets the cost of services should your Frenchie get sick or injured at any point in life. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. The early months are critical. The timing is vital. Some apply to all dogs, such as distemper and rabies. If your French Bulldog is in contact with other pups, you should get him a kennel cough vaccine. Likewise, if you take him on the trail with you, consider getting him a Lyme disease vaccine. They are starting to learn social skills and how they fit in the hierarchy with their littermates. They are becoming more independent and starting to show signs of their unique personalities that will define them as adults. Socialization is critical at this age as it will determine how well he gets along with other people and pets. Anything is fair game for this pup. You can transition him to a dog food for pups at this life stage. A French Bulldog reaches his adult size at 12 months. Unfortunately, this pup has a relatively high tendency to gain weight. That puts him at risk for many chronic health conditions that can complicate the ones associate with him being a brachycephalic breed. That brings a host of other health issues that advisable to avoid. While breeding also can have adverse effects, keeping your pet intact may offer a viable option. More likely, stunted growth is the outcome. Growing up takes a lot of energy. The danger of stunted growth also extends toward so-called teacup varieties. These pups are at a greater risk for health problems because of their size. We recommend buying puppies from reputable breeders who understand the particular needs of the French Bulldog. The best way to gauge the weight of your French Bulldog is to look down at his body shape from above him. He should have a well-defined waist. You should also be able to feel his ribs. The feeding guidelines on the back of the package or can are not written in stone. Base his feeding schedule on his current weight and state of health. An online calorie calculator can help you plan his mealtimes correctly. Conclusion The cuteness of the French Bulldog makes it easy to overfeed him. His cute face begs for a treat. It will reduce his risk of chronic health conditions and improve his quality of life. After all, you want him to hang around as long as possible as your BFF. See also:. Call Vic Kasser or Email! A French Bulldog is considered a small to medium breed dog depending on the Sire and Dam size and weight. One of the first questions anyone asks when considering purchasing a dog or puppy is how big will it get? This is a very relevant and important question considering your need to ensure your puppy is cared for appropriately in your home. Double Up: Generally, an adult dog will weigh about twice as much as he did when he was 4 months of age; giant breeds will double what they weighed at 5 months. Four Fold: The weight of your puppy at 8 weeks is a quarter of his adult weight. You can also obtain the weight of the sire father and dam mother of purebred puppies. Female puppies will weigh about what their dam weighs. Male puppies will weigh about what their sire weighs. Try Puppyweights. Factors Affecting Growth While much of a French Bulldog's growth is determined by genetic factors, early environmental factors also affect growth. Puppies who nurse frequently in the first weeks of life get better nutrition and are more likely to grow quickly. A healthy diet after your puppy is weaned can also affect her growth rate. Puppies who don't get enough food or who get low-quality food may end up smaller. Overfeeding can cause your dog to become obese. Medical conditions may also affect growth. French Bulldogs who are sick in the first few weeks of life tend to be smaller. Estimating Adult Size You can estimate your puppy's adult size by weighing her at eight weeks. Be sure to get the weight in ounces, since French Bulldogs don't grow very large and a few ounces can make a difference. Double this number and then double it again. For example, if your French Bulldog is 88 ounces at six weeks, double it to get ounces, then double the number again to get ounces. Divide this number by 16 to get your dog's weight in pounds. The ounce puppy will be about 22 pounds as an adult. Growth Rate On average, French Bulldogs tend to grow to their full size height at the withers and length from the base of their neck to their rear-end between the ages of 9 months to a year, and then they tend to "fill in" and bulk-up during their second year, fully maturing by the time they're around 2. During their growth stages, puppies can certainly grow to be heavy, and then they start getting leaner and more toned in their second year, so it's not unusual for a puppy to be heavier when they're under a year, and then drop a couple of pounds in their second year. Small-breed dogs, such as Chihuahuas, do not have room in their bodies for large litters, therefore they tend to produce only two to four puppies per pregnancy. Large-breed dogs, such as Great Danes, usually have larger litters, 10 to 12 puppies being common. Breed type also impacts the size of the newborns. Small-breed puppies are typically several inches smaller than large-breed puppies, regardless of the number of dogs in the litter. Small Puppies the Mother's Health Unusually small puppies are not a result of large litters. Instead, their size can usually be traced back to the health and nutrition of the mother dog before and during her pregnancy. Because the unborn puppies share the nutrition she takes in from her food, she needs an ample diet to properly nourish the puppies. Without sufficient food, the puppies will not reach appropriate size and may suffer health problems. According to veterinarian Kathleen Hefner, writing for the American Kennel Club, most puppies who die soon after birth were probably born from malnourished mothers. Litter Size Problems Even though litter size does not impact puppy size, large litters can cause problems for the mother dog and her new babies. If the mother's uterus attempts to carry more puppies than she can physically handle, her life and the puppies lives can be threatened. Also, large litters tend to produce more stillborn puppies and runts. With so many neonatal puppies vying for nutrition, those in the center of the womb often do not get sufficient nourishment, which can cause them to be born small or to die. Great Pyrenees breeder Catherine de la Cruz warns that large litters can trigger earlier-than-expected whelping, which can be a problem for the puppies unprepared human grandparents. Predicting Litter Size While accurately predicting the size of an expectant mom's litter is difficult, some other factors do contribute. Research shows older mother dogs have smaller litters than younger canine moms. Also, dogs who had their first litter at an older age will have smaller litters. The mother's weight can be a factor. Obese female dogs tend to have smaller litters than healthy-weight dogs. However, any pregnant mom can experience a large litter relative to normal within her breed. Dog litter sizes vary from one puppy to more than a dozen newborns. The recorded largest litter had .While litter size can impact many aspects of whelping and raising puppies, it does not actually impact the size of the individual puppies. The parents genes, the puppys breed, and the mother's health and nutrition determine the puppies size at birth. This is just a tool to be used along with observations of mom and dad weight, bone structure, previous puppy mature weights and more! However, we'll still link The file. French Bulldog Adults: Average Weight and Height On average, a full-bred adult French Bulldog weighs between 18 and 28 pounds and is 11 to 12 inches tall. Again, this can vary, and all pups grow at different rates. Everything you need to know about French Bulldog weight can be read here. Can I predict the size that my French Bulldog puppy will be? Double up: Typically, an adult dog will weigh twice as much as it did when it was 4 months old. This may vary. You can also compare your pup to the height of their mother for females or their father for males. Genetics As mentioned, genetics play a major role in the size of a puppy. A high-quality breeder will happily answer questions. A responsible breeder also ensures that the mother is provided with top-notch nutrition before breeding. Diet Like with plants and babies, puppies need proper nutrition in order to grow. Keep in mind some dogs show less interest in food and may not finish their entire bowls at meal times. Vets tend to recommend giving your dog a certain amount of time to eat. After a certain amount of time is up, you pick up the bowl with the remaining food. This is to train your dog that they need to eat all of their food at one time, or they will have to wait until the next scheduled meal time. Check out this complete guide to French Bulldog food. Mental Health If a French Bulldog is under stress or suffers from anxiety, it may show a loss of appetite. If you notice your pup being uninterested in meal times, try changing up its food. When is a French Bulldog full grown? Is my French Bulldog overweight? You can determine if your French Bulldog is overweight by noticing the following: Stand over your Frenchie and feel their ribs. You should be able to feel the ribs, but not see them. While Frenchies may show difficulty breathing due to being a Brachycephalic breed short muzzles can cause obstructive breathing , dogs of a healthy weight should be able to exercise at least for a bit without struggling. Of course, getting a second opinion from your vet is the best way to determine if your French Bulldog is overweight. Can I help my French Bulldog lose weight? Providing your pup with regular exercise and a balanced diet that includes protein, fat, fiber, and water and following the serving size provided on the nutrition facts is the best way to ensure your Frenchie is at a healthy weight. Wholesome food made with natural, high-quality ingredients like this can help your pup maintain a healthy weight. Less active dogs, like French Bulldogs, should eat about 25 calories per pound a day. So, if your pup is 20 pounds and eating about calories daily, its daily treats should consist of about 50 calories. Apple slices and carrots are nutritious, tasty treats. Is my French Bulldog underweight? Can I help my French Bulldog gain weight? When a pup gains too much fat instead of healthy fats combined with muscle, it can face health issues such as joint, heart, and lung problems. If your pup seems to be underweight according to the French Bulldog growth chart or it looks malnourished, certainly contact your vet. Disclosure HappyFrenchBulldog. The content on this blog is not a substitute for veterinary advice. Always seek advice from a certified veterinarian in a case of emergency. Contact Have questions about our content? Contact us at info [at] happyfrenchbulldog. Footer Nav. Excellent nutrition is important in order to have a healthy and happy dog. There are many varieties of food out there; wet, dry, freeze dried, raw, or cooked. Regardless of what food you decide on, they do need to be on a high-quality and nutritionally balanced dog food. What are the signs of high-quality dog food? The food should contain lean meat-based protein sources such as chicken , turkey , pork and beef. Feeding Your French Bulldog at Different Life Stages Once your puppy is fully grown, generally, between months of age they will progress on adult dog food. As young puppies, they have a huge requirement for calories and high-quality ingredients to promote puppy growth. Puppies grow rapidly during the first six months of their life and they continue growing more after this period. Without proper nutrition, they might be stunted and underweight. Check out our other article to learn how to switch puppy to two meals per day! Once your puppy is fully grown, generally, between months of age they will progress to adult dog food. This food will provide the nutrients and calories required to maintain an adult weight. Very active dogs will need more calories while sedentary dogs will need less. Dogs that have been neutered will have slightly different nutritional requirements than other adult dogs. They generally need fewer calories to prevent weight gain which can happen in the months after neutering surgery. This can be achieved by feeding a diet with relatively low carbohydrates and high-quality lean protein. Senior dogs require highly digestible foods and a good source of omega fatty acids for potentially stiff joints. They might require varying levels of protein depending on their kidney function and body condition. Good quality nutrition will keep your dog at optimal body condition and health. Feeding stage-of-life specific recipes allows your dog to have the optimal nutrients for the life stage they are in. However, regardless of small differences, most dogs will loosely follow the growth chart below. Age of French Bulldog.

Breeders VS. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. For more about the true price of a golden retriever puppy, you can read our full price breakdown here. Location Information for Rhode Island Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Rhode Island? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Rhode Island? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Golden retriever puppies for sale in Rhode Island. We are a family breeder that offers top quality Golden Retriever puppies and stud services throughout Rhode Island. About Our Dogs All of our dogs come from excellent pedigrees with champion lines, sweet and gentle temperaments, and great looks. Our mom and dad dogs and puppies are surrounded by attention and love from day one, and we socialize our pups from birth to help ensure that you get the sweetest addition to your family. All of our breeding dogs have OFA hip, elbow, eye and heart clearances. In the United Kingdom and other countries around the world, they are recognized by this name because of their attractive coats and gentle temperament. Our dogs are all AKC credentialed, have been trained and have gentle and well mannered temperaments. We use call names for our dogs and not their given names for the simple reason it makes them easier to train. For more information on their given names, feel free to contact us. Because of our own personal preferences, we made the decision long ago to focus our breeding efforts on the Light Golden category of the breed. If you are looking for a medium or dark golden retriever, we are NOT your breeder. Our Caring Approach We treat our mom and dad dogs and puppies as they are part of our family, and we look for adoptive families that will do the same. We specialize in matching the right puppy to your home, and we recommend the pup for you based on your family, lifestyle and activities. Offering a beautiful country setting great for raising dogs, where located in Bethlehem, Connecticut, in Litchfield County. We are about a 30 minute drive southeast from where the Connecticut, Massachusetts and New York state lines meet, and about 45 minutes northwest of downtown Hartford. Contact us today for your golden retriever puppy or stud service needs. Share this:.

Narwhal, the so-called "unicorn puppy" was a biological marvel that drew adoption offers from all over the world. But not all the messages sent to the rescue shelter in Missouri were kind. Rochelle Steffen Because of "so many death threats and hints of danger", the founder of the shelter Rochelle Steffen decided to keep him. Narwhal is now a happy, curious and friendly four-year-old dog. The puppy was named after the whales known best for their tusks sticking out the middle of their heads. Narwhal was initially thought to be a golden retriever, but his small size indicates otherwise. Rochelle Steffen "He also absolutely loves to be outside," Steffen told nine. He loves to inspect the yard and run around and lay around in the grass or if there is sunshine. Narwhal's forehead tail doesn't grow or wag, but it doesn't bother him either. Rochelle Steffen But the initial publicity given to the puppy hasn't made him shy. Rochelle Steffen Narwhal's tail doesn't wag, and does not appear to have grown since his birth. The cause of the forehead tail hasn't been determined, but a popular theory among biologists is that it is the remnant of a parasitic twin. Such twins are the result of a late-splitting embryo, which results in a fully-formed animal with some leftover parts from the other. Sign up here to receive our daily newsletters and breaking news alerts, sent straight to your inbox. Continue reading. Select Page Unicorn pup: Rae a golden retriever — with a single ear in the middle of her head Rae is a twelve-week-old golden retriever dog. It is a sturdy, a muscular dog which is famous for a dense lustrous coat of gold color. This golden retriever pup has a broad head, sharp eyes, intelligent and capable working breed. It is a female pup. This pup has grabbed special attention on the internet platform. It is due to the right ear of the dog moved to its forehead. During her birth time, this crazy accident occurred. This pup gained a rare feature of the right ear at the top of the forehead as well as lost her left ear. It is a birth defect to this golden retriever pup, but it has gained a positive effect from this defect. It has become famous out of the other pups because of this rare feature. So it is a boon to Rae to be born like this. Brianna Aaderma wanted to raise Rae as her pet. Unicorn is a legendary creature that resembles a horse with its horn at the forehead. Similar to a unicorn instead of a horn, Rae has an ear on its forehead. It has gained many followers and fans in social media because of its different defective feature… A positive attitude is a boon to every creature whether it can be a pup or human. Have a look at goldenunicornrae on the Instagram page.

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. We put these two on our puppies from day 1 to get used to the feeling of a leash and collar. We have some more detailed information on best leashes and collars for your puppy below. I would advise against trying during the first 2 or 3 days in your home as they have enough to deal with getting used to a completely new environment and family. But by getting them used to a collar and leash at 10 weeks old, they will be comfortable wearing them by 12 weeks when you can start to walk them outside. How long will it take to get them used to a leash and collar? Some take hours, some take days, most will be comfortable by the end of 2 weeks as long as you take care to introduce them to it methodically. I have two highly informative buying guides for choosing the right size and style of leash and collar for every situation that you can find here: How to choose the right collars and how to choose the right leash. Otherwise it will be too heavy and uncomfortable. Choose a small, lightweight collar. The lighter it is, the easier it will be to get used to. Choose a wide, flat collar and not a thin round one. So get a wide flat collar, but one that is as light as you can find. Choose a collar with quick and easy to use clips and not a buckle fastening. You need to get the collar on and off as fast as possible and not have to fiddle with it. This makes the experience is as stress free as possible. Opens in new window. Be patient. It may take hours, it may take a couple of weeks, not all puppies learn at the same speed. So be patient and eventually they will get it. Try to act as though wearing a leash and collar is no big deal and is completely normal. Calm energy from you promotes calm energy in your puppy. They can become snagged on things and cause strangulation. For a puppy that constantly chews on the leash, spray it with Tabasco sauce, bitter apple or one of many other pet-safe bitter-tasting sprays available to deter their chewing. What you want to do is the first time you put it on, leave it on for just 5 minutes then remove it. Repeat this every half hour or 45 minutes for the first couple of days. Then leave it on for 10 minutes in each hour for the next day. Then 20 minutes in each hour the next day, and so on until you can leave it permanently on. By day 6 or 7 most puppies are used to their collar and comfortable wearing it for hours at a time. A puppy will learn at their own pace. To have the best chance at the quickest success, use the following tips and techniques. Any tighter than this is uncomfortable for your puppy and may even restrict their breathing. Any looser than this and they may be able to slip it off. This is why a plastic clip fastening is best as you can do it in a second. Some will remain quite calm rarely! A few will go absolutely crazy, scratch at it, roll around and make a huge fuss. You need to ignore their struggling. Just ignore all the fuss. To help combat this, you can use the power of distraction. Put the collar on before you feed your puppy one of their meals. Or put it on and then offer to play with them and their favorite toy. Also: You should only take the collar off when your puppy is calm and relaxed. Obviously you want to avoid this. So use food, training or play to distract them and get them into a calm state before you remove the collar. Then they will offer calm behavior to get it. You have to wait for calm. And you should also avoid giving treats when you take the collar off. Now, once your puppy is comfortable in a collar, you can move on to training them to get used to a leash. How To Get Your Puppy Used To A Leash ikostudio The following tips will get your puppy used to a leash and lay a great foundation to build upon for future leash training. You will learn to avoid developing bad habits that lead to pulling later on and develop good habits that help in future training. First of all, make sure your puppy is comfortable and confident wearing a collar, then in a secure and familiar room of your home you can attach a leash. As with the collar you want to almost ignore them. No encouragement, laughing or telling them off if they chew at or try to remove it. If the need arises, you can calm your puppy by using distraction. Call them over to you, ask for some obedience commands or offer them food or a toy and it will redirect their focus and attention away from the leash. Leave it laying just outside of their confinement area where they can see it but not get at it and use it as a chew toy, or place it near to their food bowl when eating so they can see it but will be too busy eating to want to play with the leash. We want them seeing the leash around to learn its nothing to fear, without being able to play with or chew on it. A good tip is to practice this from the minute you get your puppy home, a couple of weeks before ever attempting to attach the leash. Now you can start to pick up the other end. Instead, hold the leash and follow your puppy around, keeping the lead slack for them as you both go. It pays to have a pocket full of treats so if this does happen you can grab their attention and lure them toward you with a treat. You should practice this a few minutes every hour for a day or two. The first few times you lead them, have a treat in your hand or one of their favorite toys and use it to lure them around the room with you. Now put your puppy on the leash. Just encourage them your way you by calling their name and slapping your thigh. Make a HUGE fuss to make it a massive reward that they came to you. They will come eventually, just wait until they do and then praise and treat enthusiastically. Now repeat steps 1 to 4. Step 6: Repeat this exercise 5 to 10 times per session, each hour of the day and repeat for a few days until your puppy consistently moves toward you when they feel the slightest bit of pressure on the leash. This will not take long and once it is learnt it will benefit your future leash training massively! Step 2: As soon as they stop freaking out give total release of all pressure on the leash and give warm praise and a treat. This rewards them being calm. A few repetitions will teach them that outbursts get them nowhere and being calm gets the leash to slacken off and earns a treat. Step 3: Once your puppy has learnt to be calm to earn a loose leash, they have to do a bit more to earn their treat. Repeat this a few times. Step 4: Now only reward them for coming even closer. They will soon catch on to the fact that being calm and moving toward you earns praise and a treat. You can now follow the processes of stopping them pulling on the leash and leading them around the room as described earlier in this article. So try to avoid the following: Pulling on the leash yourself: This will achieve absolutely nothing. Additionally, dogs like most animals fight against restraint so when you pull, it just makes most pull harder. Also, your puppy pulls, they go forward. You pull back a bit, then eventually give in, they still go forward. So they learn your pulling is only temporary anyway and their pulling gets them where they want to go. Rushing forward to slacken the leash when your puppy pulls: This teaches the puppy that pulling works! When you snap or jerk a leash, you loosen it first, then snap it tight to startle a dog and get their attention. But when used incorrectly and too often, your puppy pulls, feels the leash go slack and then gets yanked back. Not good. We want them to think the pressure on the leash is totally released when they move toward us, so never add any back in although this is usually only a problem when using a long leash to be fair. Well, maybe this works to a degree. But by following the techniques described in this article, the process will be as stress free as possible, and you will have laid the foundations for training your puppy not to pull on the leash later, instead of them learning bad habits that you then have to break. Are you having problems getting your puppy used to his collar and leash? What techniques have your tried? Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. These tips will also help you to advance your dog so that, eventually, you can trust them to be off the leash in a safe area. Don't release your dog until they can demonstrate knowledge and obedience on the long leash and in many different settings. To begin with, walk them in the house and in the yard. Dogs learn 'contextually and by repetition'. These hints will help you to become the pack leader. Be certain that this is only reason that your dog will follow you. Make time to walk your dog Whether you walk your dog in the morning or evening will be influenced by your program. Whenever you exercise your dog, the walk should allow for 'focused time' and 'free time'. Two leashes will facilitate this. If they are under 12 months old, take some water with you. Also take a back-pack and a treat belt available on Ebay. I recommend no more than thirty minutes of walking in total for a dog under 14 months old as their growth plates are not set until this time. Be careful of overly vigorous activity, particularly if you have an older but playful dog. I don't recommend running for more than very short bursts for the same reason. Healthy hips and elbows are critical for a healthy, active and long life. Use two leashes - a long leash approx 7m and a short leash approx 1m Start your walk with the labrador pup on a short leash. The short leash will help you to direct and guide the dog. This allows you to maintain full control over your dog. Set up your walk for success. Start by getting the dog to sit or at the least be stationary and under your control. As you begin, keep your dog behind your body alignment. Be patient and encourage your dog. Do not show aggressive frustration. This will only cause confusion and fear or aggression. If your dog is not complying, stop and reset. You are the master Walking in front of your dog demonstrates that you are the master or the pack leader. You should be first out the door. The dogs should exit the compound only at your command. This is essential whether you are walking 1, 2 or more dogs. If your dog controls the pace and direction of the walk, they are the pack leader. Your dog should be beside or behind you during the walk. Dogs learn contextually The next two hints are important training essentials. Firstly, labradors learn contextually and their training in not immediately transferable to a new environment. Using the same disciplines and routines, train your dog the same way in different settings. This will entrench your expectations. Correct immediately Secondly, a labrador has about a five second retention of information. After five seconds the dog has lost any association between your assertiveness and their behaviour. If they disobey you, you must correct them within five seconds or not at all. If the dog is disobedient or simply does not understand, reset and start again. The long leash I'm a big fan of the long leash. A long leash will help you to correct bad behaviour at a distance. After a period of training with the short leash, remove it and connect the longer lead. Keep the leash in your hand, releasing it slowly and progressively. As they master this, you can back away while the dog is 'sitting and staying'. Reward your labrador pup with vigorous affection and a treat. After this, you should allow them to wander and sniff around. All this time you will keep your dog on the long leash and under your control. Be sure that the free time is less than their focus time. During the socialisation phase, 8 - 16 weeks, you will need both leashes as you expose your labrador pup to other dogs. As you walk your dog, you will come across small and large dogs that are aggressive. Walking on either leash will give your complete control. And it will ensure safety at all time. You new labrador pup has no innate road sense. Walk them, getting close to roads. Expose them to vehicles so that they do not panic. Reward your dog for good behaviour. Remember that dogs register tones and frequencies, not words. Use higher tones to affirm, reward and encourage. You approval is the greatest reward for a Labrador. Direct eye contact without high vocal affirmation will be interpreted as aggression. Use lower growling tones to reinforce disapproval. Try to avoid 'No' as a command. It is too general and therefore confusing to the dog. Always reward and reinforce obedience to specific commands. Use food treats to begin with, however you must gradually phase them out. Your vocal affirmation and affection should be your longer term goal. As your dog maintains the proper behaviour, reward them with treats. Reward your dog after the walk I recommend that you reward your labrador pup after the walk. Let them have a drink firstly then give them a portion of food that is less than a meal but more than a treat. It will not take long for your dog to anticipate the whole experience. When you appear with the leashes, they will become very enthusiastic. If you adhere to these eight hints and maintain the discipline of your training, you and your dog will value and enjoy the experience. Finally, remember to pick up after your dog. Don't go on a walk without your poop bags on hand! Find a vet you can have confidence in. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. Andorra and Spain I wouldn't use a front-fastening harness for a young puppy. They are generally used for stopping a dog from pulling, but don't help with training. Front fastener tend to either work by tightening around the dog as he pulls, making it uncomfortable to pull, which we'd call an aversive and most of us would choose to avoid. Or they work by preventing the dog from getting traction into the forwards motion, often by turning the dog slightly. If you have a problem with a dog pulling, and either have to have them on lead before they've been trained not to, or if you're physically unable to have the dog pulling you at all due to injury or somesuch, then they're fine. But in the case of a brand new puppy, I'd suggest that they're unnecessary, and you should be focussing on training him to walk without pulling from the get-go, which you can achieve perfectly well on a standard back-fastening harness. Since the puppy has no real weight to put behind it at this stage, you should be able to manage without the mechanisms in a front-fastener. I'd recommend looking at the articles on teaching your puppy to walk on a loose lead and start putting the recommendations into place immediately. Here are some articles that may help:. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. Then you get a reality check. Walking nicely on a leash is not an instinctive behavior, and your Lab is just as likely to try and pull you in whatever direction they choose. Until they start getting into their senior years, Labs are excitable, curious, and powerful animals. Labradors are well known as strong leash pullers. But, like any desirable behavior, your dog can learn and you can teach. If your Labrador pulls like a rambunctious plow horse, read on to find out how to get back on the straight and narrow. There are times when a dog will attempt to assert itself as the leader of the pack, and some people believe that pulling is just such an attempt. The simple truth is dogs are overcome with excitement and overwhelmed with sensory input when they get outdoors, especially someplace other than their own backyard. Over stimulation Before long, your dog is so caught up in seeing, smelling, exploring and peeing, that all training goes right out the window. Even the act of pulling itself can be rewarding if your Lab likes the feeling of a little extra exercise. Freedom and autonomy in the great outdoors! Now your dog knows that pulling on the lead pays off in spades. But once the association is made between the leash and going for a walk, it becomes one of the single most exciting objects in the world! Once all four paws are on the floor or the dog is sitting; whatever your preference then move to attach the leash again. If the bad behavior continues, you back off once more. Why leather leashes? Short Practice Sessions A simple way to preserve your patience is to keep the length of your training walks to a minimum. The more time you spend with your dog pulling you along, the more likely you are to become exasperated. Nothing good will come of that for either of you. You need to be in the right frame of mind to convey reinforcement to your dog. A good idea is to choose a short route in your neighborhood, and walk it repeatedly. A familiar walk is still a pleasant one, though considerably less stimulating. Your dog will be less distracted if he sees the same things repeatedly. Burn Off Extra Energy in Advance Dogs in general, and Labradors in particular, have a lot of energy and they need to expend it in some manner. Short walks will not be enough to keep them satisfied, and they may be inclined to try to make up for it by pulling extra hard. Have an exercise session before your training walks to help combat this problem. Have some fun throwing a ball around the yard, or get in a good game of tug-of-war before heading out on the town. I always figured playing toss with a tennis ball was enough, but three things sold me with the Chuck It. You can launch the ball further with less effort. Keep Up the Pace Being a fairly large breed, your Labrador will have no trouble outpacing you without much effort. Reward Good Walking You know from your other training sessions that your Lab loves treats! When the walk is going just the way you want, offer praise and a tasty reward. Do this frequently to keep reinforcing the good behavior. And make sure they are compact and easily chewed treats that can safely be eaten on the go. When your dog starts to pull, you stop walking! If your dog is already proficient at coming when called, even when there are distractions, this may be the method for you. This technique may be difficult for smaller individuals, the elderly, or anyone with a physical disability. Ask your dog to come to you and give the sit command. At this time, resume your walk. If they continue to walk along beside you, repeat your praise word and offer another treat. Keep doing this periodically. Should they start to pull again, come to a stop and repeat the first step. When they pulls towards an object, stop as you did before. Call them back and have them sit. Again, offer the word of affirmation, but do not give a treat. Instead, walk to the item they want to inspect and have let getting to the object be the reward. Load up your pocket with treats, or carry a treat bag on your belt. Keep several in your hand at all times while walking, and replenish from your reserve. Cut them up into smaller pieces to make perfect training treats! Every few seconds, pop a treat in their mouth. Should they start to veer off or get ahead and start pulling, the walk stops. As with the previous method, call your dog back to you and get them to sit. When they do, give praise and then resume the walk, once again with the treats held in front of the nose. After a bit of uninterrupted practice, say a week or so, stop carrying treats in your hand, but have them nearby. Keep offering them frequently. Begin offering treats less frequently; start by giving a reward every 5 steps or so, and then gradually space them out over larger distances. Be aware, this method should only be used if your dog is not wearing a head halter or slip lead. The idea of this technique is to surprise your dog when they reaches the end of the leash. First, start with a verbal warning cue for your dog when they are about to run out of slack. Give praise and a reward as you continue to walk. Keep walking in the opposite direction, and praise your dog as they catch up to you. Once your Lab is back beside you, resume walking in the original direction. Repeat this step as necessary. The idea is to teach your dog that walking too far ahead and pulling leads to an unpleasant sensation, and diverts the walk away from where they want to go. Use this method if positive reinforcement is not having the desired effect. Watch for signs that your dog is under extreme duress; cringing, cowering, yelping or any other outward display of fear or pain are clear indications that this method is not working. Desist immediately and try something else. Collar Tug Like the previous method, this technique also uses a bit of negative reinforcement, and should not be used in conjunction with a slip lead, or a head halter. Again, this should only be tried if positive methods are not proving fruitful. As before, when your dog is approaching the end of the leash, administer a verbal warning. The force of the tug will depend on the size of your dog, and it may need to be repeated before you really get their attention. In the case of my own dog, his neck muscles are far too strong to make this effective, and the same may hold true for your own Lab. Exercise extreme caution with this technique. Choosing a good collar and leash will help as you teach your Lab to walk nicely. The Classic Collar Of course a traditional collar is perfectly acceptable, either with a buckle or snaps. For a selection of classic collars recommended by us, please click here. Harnesses A harness is a good option, especially for anyone who has had difficulty walking a dog using a collar. Many dogs will respond to pressure around their neck by pulling even more in the opposite direction. Pull that one out at parties and impress your friends! Head halters and no-pull harnesses can be very helpful during training. They make your dog easier to control, and discourage pulling almost entirely on their own. Be warned, though, that they should not substitute for actual training if you really want your Labrador to learn to walk on a loose leash. While your dog will walk perfectly well when using this equipment, they are unlikely to repeat this behavior with a traditional collar. Choosing a Leash Make sure you give some thought to what leash to buy. When yours truly bought his first leash, the selection was based on color and not quality, a decision I regretted when my very eager puppy snapped the leash and made a run for it! This gives enough length to give your dog a bit of freedom, but keeps it short enough for you to maintain control and have them close enough to praise and reward. Click here to see a selection of leashes as recommended by us. Things to Avoid No decent dog owner wants to hurt their dog, and yet pain-inflicting devices are all too commonly used for training. As mentioned earlier, negative reinforcement can be helpful if used cautiously and sparingly. However, to use it as your sole method for loose leash training is not acceptable. Choke and prong collars deliver strong doses of pain to a dog in order to deter them from unwanted behavior. It is extremely difficult to control the amount of pain generated during a correcting move with such a collar, and the force delivered invariably exceeds the required amount. It is our very firm belief at Labrador Training HQ and in the dog community in general that these items are cruel and barbaric. Avoid them at all costs. The good news is the repetition can be fun and rewarding. You and your dog will get plenty of exercise and quality time together, and opportunities for socialization and training , too. Labradors are strong and energetic dogs, especially in their youth. They love to get out and explore, and this desire coupled with their devotion to their owners, make loose leash training, well… a walk in the park. Get out and enjoy! Are you having trouble with your Lab pulling on leash? What have you done to help get your dog to stop pulling? Tell us your experiences in the comment section below. A very good, 4-part guide with steps to follow to train a loose leash walk. I highly recommend checking this out! You might want to try some yourself? Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Basic Dog Training How to Teach a Puppy to Walk on Leash The key to teaching a dog to walk on leash is taking it slow—and using lots of positive reinforcement. She is passionate about human-animal interactions, having founded the nonprofit Animal Assisted Professionals, which provides animal-assisted interventions, including animal-assisted therapy and activities. She has held roles in the pet industry that have included service and therapy canine training, rescue and shelter management, veterinary care, and animal behavioral consultation. In her free time she is passionate about providing animal-assisted interventions, training and preparing therapy dog teams, and spending time with her wonderful husband, charismatic daughter, two glorious dogs, and two very fluffy cats. Daily Paws' Editorial Guidelines Published on February 12, Whether you just brought home that tiny, fluffy bundle of puppy joy or you recently found your perfect canine match at the local shelter, every dog-owner relationship involves a great deal of time and effort dedicated to teaching important life lessons and skills. Our dogs are not born with the ability to comprehend human words and they certainly don't come equipped with the ability to walk nicely on leash. Walking on a leash is something every dog should know how to do. Not only does it allow them to journey about with you, their favorite human, but it also keeps them safe and protects other dogs and people, too. It doesn't matter if you live in the city or enjoy the quiet country life, your dog should always be walked on leash. Teaching them to walk by your side takes time, but with patience and positive reinforcement , you and your dog will be enjoying daily walks together soon. Teach a Marker A marker or bridging stimulus is a sound or hand signal that pinpoints the exact moment your dog did something that earned them a reinforcer a treat. A clicker is a great example of a marker and a conditioned reinforcer. If you don't have a clicker you can use a consistent word like "yes" or "good," or a hand signal like a thumbs up. But pick one and stick to it. Mark the behavior the second you see it. The more accurate and quick your mark is, the more effective your teaching becomes. Build a Positive Association Before he goes off on an outdoor adventure with you, your dog needs to feel comfortable and enjoy wearing walking equipment. This includes his collar, leash, and possibly a body harness. Be sure you are in a quiet, non-distracting area of your home like your living room. Start by giving your dog time to get used to wearing each item. Put his collar on while he plays in the house or goes outside to potty and each time you put it on, mark and reinforce by giving your dog a treat. Attach the leash to the collar for short moments throughout the day, being sure to mark and treat him as he moves a few steps while wearing it. If you plan to use a body harness , introduce it slowly, providing treats and praise as you place it over his head and connect the straps. Teach Your Dog to Give Attention It may seem as though you should just start walking with your dog but before you can move, you need to make sure he is actually paying attention, otherwise he may pull and dart about. Be patient and wait for your pup to offer you this is capturing even a tiny moment of eye contact or look at you—then immediately mark and reinforce. Repeat this frequently so that your pup understands looking at you equals treats. You can add a "cue" for attention, too. Say "look" or "eyes" right before your dog is about to look at you and then mark, reinforce, and praise. Start Moving by Backing Up This may seem counterintuitive, but the backward steps are a great way to begin moving without encouraging your dog to pull. With your dog wearing his collar and leash, take a few steps backward and as he follows you mark, reinforce, and praise. Gradually increase the number of steps backward you take. Start with two or three steps and then turn to walk forward two or three steps. Mark and reinforce him if he stays by your side. Practice With "Come" Teaching your dog to "come" while on leash is a great way to help prevent future issues or pulling or forging ahead. It also gives a good opportunity to teach your dog to come on cue without the risk of him running away. With your pup wearing his collar and leash, toss a treat just a few steps away from you. After he eats the treat and turns back around to face you, say "come" and quickly mark and reinforce the moment he moves towards you. Repeat this so it becomes a game of tossing a treat and then turning around to come to you for another one. Practice Taking a Few Steps on Leash Outside Once your dog has mastered the basics of leash training inside, you can begin to move outside, but be sure to find a place that has few distractions. Your backyard or garage are good options. Practice walking just a few steps and stopping and asking for attention. Mark and reinforce for moments of nice leash walking every few steps while in motion and anytime you stop, wait for their attention and then reinforce, too. Don't rush it! Baby steps, baby steps, baby steps. Gradually Increase Distance Slowly begin to move from your home to the neighborhood. Begin by walking the distance of just a house or two and gradually increase the distance as your dog masters the skill. Be sure to mark and reinforce constantly until your dog becomes better and better at this set of skills. It takes time to get good at coordinating the mark and treat delivering while moving, but after a few days of practice rest assured you will be a pro. Keep with it and stay positive! Remember that puppies have short attention spans despite their seemingly endless amounts of energy. Don't expect a young dog to walk long distances with you until they are more mature and grown. Be patient and allow your dog to sniff, to pee on trees and bushes doggie email , and to enjoy being outside with you. Walkies should always be fun, not a chore nor a time for perfect heeling. Was this page helpful? How to leash train a Labrador. Labradors can pull like trains Everywhere you go, you will see dogs on leashes. Others have a rather different style. You will see their owners, hurrying along with one arm stretched desperately out in front. A stressed hand grips an outstretched leash, and at the end of it a dog fighting for air. Front feet scrabbling at the pavement, this dog is intent on choking himself! One way to help resolve this unpleasant situation, is to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. And you can do that by waiting them out. Where you just stand still and refuse to move forwards while the lead is tight. But this can take a very long time with a determined puller. Please avoid retractable leashes. Make sure the leash is attached to a body harness , which is much safer for a strong pulling dog. Later on, your dog will not need frequent feeding to maintain his loose leash, but to begin with generosity is the key. An event marker A clicker is used to accurately tell your dog exactly when she did what you wanted her to. It is a very helpful aid in the training process. But you can equally use your voice. If you have to drive your dog to a deserted car park or quiet street so be it. A hard surface tarmac or paved is ideal is helpful as it enables the dog to quickly find and pick up the treats. How often to train your dog Set aside at least ten minutes for this training and do it at least twice a day. Three or four times a day is even better. Try not to miss a day, at least for the first week How to leash train a Labrador Take your dog to your chosen training location and attach the lead to his collar or harness Step 1: Start Set off walking forwards Step 2: Stop As soon as your dog to gets to the end of the leash this may be almost immediately , stand still Step 3: Wait Now wait for the dog to give you some attention. Drop a treat just behind you for him to collect as he reaches you. Start walking forwards Step 1 again as soon as he has gathered his treat from the ground. The dog will probably then charge past you to the end of the leash. You know what to do. STOP walking. Make like a tree. Pause, gather your thoughts. Rinse and repeat the steps from 1 through 4. Make a little kissy noise with your mouth for example. As soon as he looks at you drop a little food on the ground then turn away from him. The idea is that when he eats the food he will be in the right position just behind you, and that this position will become attractive to him. Start associating a kissy noise with food, at home, in the garden, and elsewhere. Your rewards may need to be upgraded to something more attractive and smelly. He should be hungry and eager to eat. Making progress with loose leash walking The first few sessions will be a bit boring. There will be waiting, and hanging about. Hang on in there, you need to be determined. Just focus on the fact that you have simply had enough of letting your dog drag you around. It may take three or four sessions before the dog figures out there is no point in charging past you, starts to pay you more attention, and watch where you are walking. But these occasions will become fewer and further between. And you will be able to walk longer distances and get to where you want to go, without stopping and changing direction every two seconds. All you have to do is stand firm when your dog gets it wrong, and reward him when he gets it right. You can do this. It takes a little patience, but you can do it. Introducing distractions to loose leash walking Just like any other skill you teach your dog, you need to start in a distraction free area. But there comes a point, when the dog has really grasped what you are teaching him, when you need to introduce some distractions into your training. Dogs eventually have to learn to walk past other dogs, people and the neighborhood cat, without charging about like lunatics. It helps to start with any distractions at a distance and to set up training exercises where it is easy for the dog to win because you have some control over the other participants. You can do this with friends or at a training club. Write it down At the end of each session, I suggest you make a note of how you got on. Rewarding good behavior As your dog gets better at walking on a loose lead, it becomes tempting to forget the rewards altogether. This is a sure way to see your efforts undone. Always carry a few treats on you when you are out with your dog. Reward him from time to time when he is being good. He deserves it. Before you learn how to leash train a Labrador This is a simple exercise designed to help people who are struggling with a dog that pulls them around on a lead. This is because every forward movement your dog makes on the end of a tight leash is a reward for him an reinforces the pulling behavior. There are various ways to tackle this You can drive your dog to his exercise area You can stop exercising the dog outside of your own garden whilst you train him to walk to heel You can use an anti-pull device whilst you are not training him Just remember, you can teach an old dog new tricks. And if you stay calm and patient, your Lab will get there in the end too.

Scroll down for LIVE puppy cams! However, if mama needs a little help, we are very close by monitoring the process to assist removing the sac or stimulating a puppy to breathe. When mama has finished her clean up, we remove puppy for a quick weight, add an ID collar, and treat the umbilical stump with a disinfectant. For the first few days after birth, we practically have to drag mama away from her babies to get her to go out to potty. After the first few days, mama begins to leave the puppies for brief periods of time—usually she lies just outside the box on the cool floor—she needs an occasional break from the higher temperature that is so necessary for her babies. We also have a heating pad area the puppies can choose to move to if they need more warmth when mama is away. Puppies are little heat seeking missiles—they have heat sensors on the sides of their noses. This heat seeking instinct guides them to mama to nurse, to each other to puppy pile and to warm areas in their nest. We also add one additional step by presenting the puppies with a new scent stimulation daily. This series of brief, specific exercises we perform are in addition to our normal daily handling of the puppies as we weigh them, trim toenails, move them to clean their area, etc. One Week Old: The puppies continue to spend all their time nursing or sleeping. During this week, we give them their first toenail trim and continue to weigh each puppy two-three times a day. We monitor weight gain carefully, since that is our first indication that a puppy might need a little extra boost of supplemental formula. Puppies generally double their weight in their first week of life! These rails originated on farms to protect piglets—hence the name pig rail. Puppies often gravitate to the outer edges of the box and wedge themselves down in a corner. Since mama is spending most of her time in the box with her babies all around her, she often leans back against the walls and falls deeply asleep as she recovers from her labor and delivery. The rail stops her from crushing or smothering a baby that has burrowed in behind her along the edge. We remove the rails when the puppies are about three weeks old and are strong enough to raise a ruckus if they get trapped. Towards the end of the first week, we see their eyelids begin to become more defined and separate, and their eyelashes grow longer. By the beginning of the second week, the eyes are starting to open in the inner corner and working to the outer corner of the eyes. By days old, their eyes will be open. Two Weeks Old: The puppies eyes are all open now and their ears will be opening in the next few days. At this age puppies do not experience fear, so the startle is not fear driven. In these next few weeks before they begin experiencing fear around weeks of age, we will mildly stress them with noises to build their recovery response. We are carefully watching the intensity of the startle and the speed of recovery—our goal is to elicit a very mild startle followed by a rapid recovery. By repeating the noise several times in a row, the startle response will diminish and go away and the recovery will become immediate. This will help the puppies be stable to new sounds and experiences as they grow into adult dogs. The puppies continue to gain weight at a remarkable rate—often several ounces a day. Mama is still stimulating puppies to potty and cleaning up completely after—she keeps the nest fastidiously clean. Their awareness of their surroundings is awakening. We start enriching their environment during this week—we generally remove the whelping box at this point to give them more room to explore, adding soft toys to give texture to their area. We place potty pads at the back of their area for the beginning of potty training, and we help define that potty area by adding sleeping beds, changing the bedding in the main area of their pen several times a day and leaving the soiled pads in the potty area. The puppies will gradually begin to follow the scent to the specific potty area, and in a matter of weeks they will regularly go to the designated potty area to eliminate. Four-Six Weeks Old: During these weeks we continue to add enrichment items to their area and also expand their area as they show signs of needing more room to move and explore. The puppies become more stable on their legs and start to interact with one another, play bowing, barking at one another, and noticing us. We have continued the weekly toenail trims and daily handling—touching paws, ears, body. At this time we increase our interactions with the puppies and spend more individual time with them. As the puppies continue to wake up and become more aware over the next several weeks, we will start our clicker training exercises, following our Puppy Culture protocols. Although the puppies are still nursing, during this time they are introduced to food. We start them with puppy formula, gradually adding in raw lamb and baby rice cereal, then softened kibble and diminishing the formula. Mama dog is usually tired of sharp teeth nursing and she pushes the puppies to weaning. She no longer lies down to nurse and only spends brief times in the pen with them cleaning them and checking on them—then out she jumps to lie just out of reach, keeping an eye on things, but no longer feeling as protective. At this point, she is fine to let the other older dogs interact with her babies, and she happily rejoins her guardian family once her puppies are eating solid food on their own. Seven-Nine Weeks Old: Weather permitting, puppies are introduced to the outside area through the doggy door and discover a whole new world of running, larger toys and obstacles, wind, sun, rain, the chickens, etc. Such fun times they have outside! They become proficient at diving through the doggy door, in and out all day. In the warmer months, we have a wading pool for them to play in, in fall and winter they chase leaves, dodge rain drops, and play in rain puddles. We welcome visitors once the puppies are six weeks old, and the puppies love meeting children, teens, and adults. At about eight weeks of age we do our temperament and structure evaluations and veterinarian check up. The big day arrives all too quickly that we make puppy allocations and at nine weeks old our puppies head off to new horizons, adventures, and wonderful lives with YOU! All rights reserved. Furbo Dog Camera and Furbo Dog Nanny works together to send alerts of any important events happening at home. So that you can be alerted of any emergencies in real-time. How is Furbo different from generic security cameras? Every element of Furbo is designed for dogs. Furbo Dog Camera is what started it all! This is our most basic option and consists of a standalone camera that allows you to see, talk, play, and toss treats to your pup in real-time. Furbo Dog Nanny is what allows you to keep tabs on your pup with important dog-related alerts, fun recordings of their day, a daily recap, and lots more! This money-saving bundle gives you the convenience of paying less upfront. How do I cancel my Furbo Bundle subscription? You are eligible to cancel your Furbo Bundle subscription after your subscription ends. What treats can I use? During the development process of Furbo, many dogs of different sizes, breeds, and personalities tested out the sturdiness of Furbo. We recommend placing Furbo inches above the floor or based on the height of your dog and its mobility. What is the return policy? If you are not fully satisfied with your Furbo, you will have 30 days to return or exchange your Furbo. Does Furbo come with a warranty? The Furbo Dog Camera comes with a one year hardware warranty. And the Furbo Bundle comes with a Lifetime warranty as long as you continue subscribing to Furbo Bundle. Christopher Verified Purchase Great for keeping track of your pup while at work After purchasing this as a gift previously, I finally got around to purchasing this for myself, and boy was that a good decision! This is by far the best interactive pet camera ever. While my pup is home alone I can check on her, give her a treat or just make sure she's safe. I was always concerned about leaving my puppy home alone because he will cry a lot. When I got Furbo, things got much better! I don't typically write reviews but last week Furbo actually saved my dog's life! I bought Furbo thinking it would just be something fun to see what my dog does while I'm away. Little did I know it would help in a dog medical emergency!

A Day In The Life.Puppies The link has been copied! Welcoming a new member into the family? Every puppy deserves a collar as it is a helpful tool for training and in case they ever go missing. Read on to find what size collar for your puppy you will need. How to measure your puppy's neck size All puppies are different and vary neck size, much like how people come in all sizes and shapes. For a proper fit, make sure to measure your dog's neck and don't just guess! Measure a few inches down from their head and then add an inch for very small dogs or two inches for medium and large dogs. Pull the tape snug but not tight. Collar Types Martingale Collars Martingale collars , sometimes called no-slip or limited-slip collars, are a type of dog collar that provides more control than a typical flat collar, and prevent dogs from backing or slipping out. Originally popular with Greyhound owners, they've become much more popular in recent years. They look similar to a flat collar, but about a third of the length of the collar is actually a smaller loop of fabric with a D-ring to attach a leash. On some martingale collars, the smaller loop is made from chain instead of fabric. The collar works by constricting when the dog pulls on the leash, which causes the smaller loop to tighten up to a point. Unlike choke chains or slip leads a type of training leash , Martingale's can only tighten so much before they stop, so are a great option to prevent a dog from backing out of their collar but need to be used with care. They offer comfortable security without harming your dog. In between sizes? If your puppy is in between the sizes listed, pick the larger of the two sizes to give them the most room to grow into. As they reach their full size, you'll want to pick the smaller of the two to avoid having extra material on the end of the collar. There are a huge variety of colors, patterns, and widths available. Ideal for dogs to wear around the house and on walks, nylon collars are the multi-purpose, standard collar. Biothane These collars are the ideal collar for dogs that love water. They are a great alternative to neoprene and leather, as they are softer, more flexible, and less expensive. Patterns and styles are more abundant than neoprene and can be a more fashionable option for pet owners looking for both style and function. Neoprene This material is a soft rubber material that is used in wet suits, and is reinforced with nylon webbing for added strength, stretch, and durability. Neoprene makes for excellent dog collars for dogs that spend a lot of time in the water. Leather These dog collars are a classic, durable style of collar that provides a great balance of both looks and practicality. While more expensive than most collars, quality leather collars can be expected to last for years. Make sure when you are buying your dog's leather collar that you choose a collar made from genuine leather. Bonded leather, while made from real leather, is a conglomerate of scrap leathers with a bonding agent to bind them. This type of leather may look and feel like genuine leather, but it is not as durable and is an inferior product. While bonded leather would still be suitable for a dog collar, it won't have the same durability. Rolled leather collars are generally recommended for dogs that have thick hair that easily mats around their collar. How to plan for a growing puppy Buy a collar that fits well now When buying your puppy a collar, you want to get the most for your money, but don't let go overboard and put your dog at risk. Buy a collar that fits your puppy well at his current size. While you should keep the future in mind, the most important thing is that your puppy is safe. A collar that is too big can slip over the dog's head or be chewed on. Too small collars can choke your dog, cause skin irritation, or even obstruct breathing. Lay the one collar myth to rest If you are fitting a collar for your puppy, you will buy another collar at some point in your dog's life. Very few dogs will fit the same collar from when they are a couple months old through adulthood. Expect that you will need to buy another collar when your dog reaches adulthood or perhaps several times for labs! Find a collar that leaves room for your puppy to grow Puppies grow. While buying a cute and impossibly small collar might be tempting, it's better to choose a collar that will fit your dog in a couple of months. Puppies grow a lot, particularly in the first few months, so you want to make sure your puppy's collar is adjustable so that you can resize it as they grow. Usually there is some overlap between sizing. If you can find a bigger collar that fits well, choose it over a smaller one that they will outgrow quickly. Typically, the bigger the collar, the more adjustable range, so as they get bigger, the collars will also last longer. Size your puppy regularly Because of your puppy's rapid growth pattern, you should be sizing its neck at least every two weeks to make sure everything continues to fit well. You should be able to slip two fingers underneath your dog's collar at any time. Adjust your puppy's collar as needed or purchase a new one. Considering a GPS Collar? If you're looking to get a Fi GPS Collar for your puppy , the good news is we offer several sizes and the electronic portion of the collar is transferrable to new bands as your pup grows. For more information on how to do this, click here. Finding a suitable collar for your dog matters, especially if you own a smaller dog like a pug. Pugs are adorable, but finding the right collar can quickly become challenging as you review various options and understand what they include, requiring you to consider multiple points. Ensure you review the best collars on the market, see what you should consider while you buy a collar, and keep your pug safe. Best Dog Collars for Pugs You should start by reviewing the best pug collars on the market. Doing so will help you see what matters the most, which options you like, and pick your favorite. A lightweight and comfortable design Supports 40 percent more GPS satellites Waterproof design Three months battery life Over pound resistance This collar focuses on tracking your pug and keeping them safe and healthy. It has a waterproof design It supports the Fi GPS unit Includes a quick-release collar The webbing is flexible It includes a D-ring A waterproof design on your collar never hurts since you can use it in the rain and various weather conditions. You can also add the GPS unit to track your dog with the collar if you have it. Nylon Collar Speaking of other options on the market, you should look into a Nylon collar to see if your pug may prefer it. Includes sliders for adjusting Custom nameplates on the collar No-slip design D-ring for your leash Over 20 colors The collar focuses on customization to meet your needs and help you make it perfect for your pug. For example, the sliders ensure you find the perfect tightness to keep it on without becoming uncomfortable. Go with this option if your dog tends to escape or run away. Rope Hounds Collar You can use an aluminum and plastic combination if you purchase a Rope Hounds Collar Band while enjoying various features. Over one dozen color choices Supports a GPS device A lightweight design A clasp to keep it on Since you have multiple color choices, you can pick whichever one you like the most. The design prioritizes a lightweight and comfortable design, utilizing webbing to offer more comfort. You also have a clasp to put it on and take it off your pug whenever needed. What Makes a Collar Good for a Pug? You want to consider multiple crucial points as you think about what works best for pug collars. Comfortability Size Durability You can choose an option your pug can comfortably wear at most moments. Owners usually have their dogs wear their collars most of the day, so they can keep a tag on them in case they run off, and they can easily take them on walks as needed. Size also plays a role in what works for your pug. You also want to go through the options and determine which ones hold up the best. That includes finding one made of excellent material. Choosing the right collar for your dog depends on what your dog needs. For example, some people prefer to focus on materials, others like the idea of GPS trackers, and others care about which color they purchase from the store. You can even find ones with quick-release or sliding buckles. Quick-release options allow you to easily take off the collar while sliding buckles let you adjust the collar to the perfect size. Plastic and nylon Fabric Leather Plastic works well for various collars since they have good durability while also maintaining a waterproof design. Aluminum matters as you look into options with buckles and loops on them. Leather is a comfortable choice if you purchase it for your dog. Do Pugs Need a Special Collar? You should also think about your environment and other circumstances. The same applies to collars with reflective strips if you walk your pug during the evening. In short, think about what you want to do with your dog, see which course of action works the best, and do what you can to find the best pug collars available. A global positioning system GPS collar also matters as you review your options for pug collars. If your dog runs off somewhere, you can look up their location, find them, and protect your puppy from dangerous situations. Track Activity and Sleep You can also keep track of your pug while they spend time nearby. You can also see when they sleep and determine if your pug sleeps enough during the day. Final Thoughts Pug collars matter as you consider your options and your furry friend's needs. As you do, consider an option with GPS to find your pug if they ever run off alone. Doing so will help you protect your pug, keep them nearby while you walk, and do whatever you must to make your furry friend comfortable and happy. For additional pet-parenting tips, head over to TryFi. And don't forget to check out TryFi's innovative Fi Dog Collar , which offers GPS tracking, activity monitoring, and escape alerts to keep your furry friend safe. The link has been copied! You might also like. When it comes to puppies, particularly short-haired breeds, you should look for a soft collar made of a non-abrasive material. Fabric collars are a good option, and collars made from a breathable fabric that is also machine washable are even better. When should a puppy wear a collar? Even if your puppy is still too young to go outside for walks, getting them used to wearing a collar is a good idea and will prevent any tiny tantrums further down the road! Collars should be worn most of the time, even around the house, but taking it off every so often to let the skin breathe is recommended. Try leaving the collar off for a couple of hours every time you brush or bathe them. Can an 8-week-old puppy wear a collar? Responsible breeders recommend puppies should not be brought home until 8 weeks old, and you can start getting them used to their collar shortly after this. It may be a good idea to let them settle into their new environment before introducing something new, but getting them used to their collar in their second week at home is a good idea. Should puppies wear collars at night? Most dog collars are designed to be non-abrasive, and perfectly safe for pups and older dogs to sleep in. This can also help puppies get adjusted to wearing a collar for the majority of the time. However, many vets also recommend including a contact telephone number, in the event your dog goes missing. Although microchipping has been mandatory for pet dogs since , tags are still a legal requirement and provide a quicker way to get in contact with you if your dog is found, without their microchip needing to be scanned first. We hope our puppy collar size guide has been helpful, as well as our dog collar FAQs! If you enjoyed our puppy collar size guide, you might like our other article, What do I need for a New Puppy? Owners who wonder if a collar or a harness is better for a Pug dog, the answer is that both are important accessories for this breed and each will serve different purposes. However, for the Pug this is should not be the case since this is a brachycephalic breed. Being brachycephalic, the face is flat with a short snout. Nasal and airways passages are compressed, with many Pugs having some level of stenotic nares narrows nasal openings. The soft palate located in the back of the throat is often elongated, causing some issues with breathing. Due to the structure of the face and the short neck of the Pug, ability to breath correctly is already an issue with this breed. If the leash is connected to the collar all pressure, force and tension is placed directly onto a Pug's neck. This can cause several serious issues including: Compression and constriction whenever the Pug pulls ahead and the leash goes taut, causing increased breathing difficulties Injury to the windpipe if the Pug lunges to the side or jerks his head including the very serious issue of collapsed trachea in which rings of cartilage surrounding the windpipe collapse inward. The Harness A proper harness should be the apparatus that is used any time that a Pug dog is on leash. As opposed to a collar, the harness will distribute pressure, force and tension across the dog's shoulders, chest and back. These areas of the body are much sturdier since they are comprised of bone and muscle as opposed to softer cartilage and ligaments of the neck. Using a harness frees the Pug's neck from potential injury and allows the Pug puppy or dog to breathe easier when on leash. In addition, the right harness will give an owner better control when walking a Pug. This is a curious breed that often tends to want to lead while on walks. A harness allows an owner to better control the puppy or dog, keeping him on course, without having to worry about causing any type of neck injury or pulling that would inhibit breathing in a dog that already has struggles in this respect. Choosing a Collar for Your Pug Though connecting a leash to a collar is not recommended, you may still want your Pug to wear one for other reasons. This would including to hang a dog tag for ID purposes. And many owners find it easier to have a collar on their dog inside the home to help facilitate handling such as grooming. There are over 20 different types of collars and there are only a couple that are ideal for this breed. Let's first look at what type of collar should NEVER be used: X Flat Buckle Collars - These are similar to a belt in which the sizing of the collar's diameter is adjusted with prongs that slip into punched holes. The issue with these is that you need to fidget with the buckle when taking it off and with this breed, breathing issues can come on very quickly. You'll want a collar that you can take off almost instantly. X Choke collar - These are exceedingly dangerous for the Pug breed. Made of chain with rings at the ends; both 'dead' and 'live'. When a leash is attached to the live ring, the chain instantly slips tighter when the dog pulls, causing a massive jerk to the neck. X Prong collar - These are used as a means of control via pinching the dog's neck when he pulls while on leash. The interlocking steel link collar's metal spikes are considered - by many- to be inhumane for any dog. The choke and prong collars mentioned above have been associated with whiplash, spinal cord injuries leading to paralysis, fainting, collapsed trachea, asphyxiation, fracture of the bones in the larynx, bruising of the esophagus, dislocated neck bones, damage to the skin and tissues in the neck, brain damage and dislocated eyes the eye s are forced from the socket due to excessive restraint to the head and neck. Now, let's look at the best collars for a Pug puppy or older dog. For this breed, the two best options are: Flat collar, quick release - This consists of one flat, adjustable strap that fits around the neck. It closes with a clasp that is ideal for fast removal. You'll want it to be lightweight yet sturdy, weather resistant and with stitching only on one side to prevent irritation. Examples would be if the Pug's collar got accidentally caught on an object such as fencing, a part of a safety gate or even a chair, in which the dog would otherwise be strangled. Material - The material that the collar is made of along with its thickness will determine how heavy it is and therefore how much weight will be placed on a Pug's neck. Flat collars the type recommended for this breed can be found in an array of materials that include leather, polyester or nylon webbing. Let's look at the choices: Polyester - This is a cheap material that is made from synthetic polymers. This low quality fabric wears out extremely quickly, absorb and hold body oils that can lead to terrible smells and are not a good choice. Leather - These collars can look very stylish though the downsides are that these are not waterproof and some cheaper leathers can stretch out over time. Nylon - Webbed nylon, flat collars with a quick release or breakaway clasp are the best choice for most Pugs. A quality collar made of nylon webbing will be weather resistant, washable, resistant to odors and sturdy. Size - The general rule of safety and comfort is that once the collar is on, you can easily slip two fingers between it and your dog's neck. This allows it to be loose enough to avoid any type of constriction but be tight enough that it cannot slip off or be easily snagged onto something. While the collar for your Pug will be adjustable, you'll want to make sure that as your puppy grows, it can be sized to still fit those two fingers underneath. Pug puppies often wear collars sized for toy breeds, though this will change after the first year. Since the Pug is the largest of all toy breeds with an adult weight of 13 to 18 pounds 5. How Many Collars You Should Have for Your Pug You'll want to have at least 2 quality collars so that if one is taken off your Pug and misplaced, you'll still have one on hand. The collars should be periodically checked for any wear and tear. Depending on their use if you always use one and the backup one is rarely used you may need to replace the collar anywhere from every 2 to 5 years. Times to Remove the Collar Many owners wonder if it is okay to keep the collar of a Pug when the dog is at home inside the house. One element that you'll want to be exceedingly aware of is the chance of the door being opened and the Pug darting outside. If you do take the collar off when at home, it can help to have a rule that even household members knock on the door to announce their presence so that the dog can be held while the door opens. While it can be freeing for a dog to be collar-free while sleeping and playing inside of the house, for some this can cause intolerance for times that it must be placed on. Bittoo, 20 months old Photo courtesy of Vishnoo Sangeet Dubey For puppies in the house training phase, it's best to keep it on at all times since you may only have seconds to bring the pup to the designated bathroom area and spending time putting the collar on can result in an accident inside the home. It is recommended to take a Pug's collar off when brushing the coat. Since this is a heavy shedding breed, the collar can impede proper grooming. You'll want to be able to do long strokes down the back of the head, over the neck and along the back in addition to the front of the neck and down the chest. It should also be removed during baths to properly scrub and rinse the coat; keeping in mind that a wet dog is quite slippery and all exit points of the house should be secured to prevent an unplanned escape. For Pugs that have breathing problems due to tracheal collapse or other medical issues, the veterinarian may recommended that the collar be kept off while the dog recovers. Choosing a Harness for Your Pug As mentioned above, a harness is a necessary accessory to use any time that a Pug is on leash. Some owners shy away from harnesses due to a bad experience of the Pug resisting or showing intolerance for it; however in most cases this is just a matter of the dog needing time to become accustomed to it and having one that is comfortable. The best type of harness for a Pug will be easy to slip on and will fit comfortable without pinching the skin. Let's look at some things to keep in mind: 1 A comfort wrapped, strapped harness is the best choice for most Pugs as these are designed for flat faced breeds with wide chests. If the straps are too thin, they will pinch and cut into the dog's skin, causing discomfort, redness and even sores. This way, it's super easy to put on and off within seconds. However, adult Pugs are more powerful and this type of harness often does not properly distribute pressure on a dog as large as a full grown Pug. Leaving it on can cause body oils to accumulate under the strapping, blocking healthy air circulation to both skin and coat. Our favorite choice: It has these great features: Quality nylon that is sturdy but soft to the touch won't chafe a Pug's skin Has quick-snap buckles on both the shoulder and belly making it super easy to put on Has a Martingale loop on the chest piece this prevent the harness from twisting The strap that goes under the Pug is a slightly different color, so you'll always know how to put it on Did you find this article helpful? All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Rated 5. There are plenty of options available for this breed. What Size Collar for Pugs? Pugs are considered to be small dogs with neck sizes that measure about 10 to 14 inches around. You should be able to easily fit two fingers underneath the collar when it is attached to the pug. Pug Temperament The existence of Pugs were first recorded in China as pet companions for Chinese nobility. Pugs are popular as pets for a reason. Their sociable and gentle nature is full of personality and are known to be charming, affectionate, and mischievous. These pups are very intelligent and clever, so training them can sometimes be a challenge. Choosing the right collar for a pug is extremely important. The best type of collar to fit your precious pug are those that are flat with a quick release or break away. The reason for this is because pugs are a brachycephalic breed, dogs that have flat faces and short snouts. This can cause difficulty in breathing when a collar with a leash is used on them. It can cause injury to their windpipe if they pull and jerk their head, resulting in a collapsed trachea among other possible injuries. For that reason, we recommend using a harness with a leash. With that in mind, there are plenty of options available for collars—including leather and nylon. Leather Collars for Pugs Calmer and more obedient Pugs will benefit from a leather collar, which can provide a combination of durability and comfort. Also, for Pugs with super sensitive skin, leather collars are the best option. Nylon Collars for Pugs Pugs that are calm and have a good temperament will also benefit from a nylon collar. Regardless of the temperament of your Pug, our selection has what you need to balance control and comfort. Sign up for Doggie Deals By signing up, you will receive an email every week with new deals only for Mimi's Doggie Deals subscribers. We believe that your dog is a reflection of yourself. We believe that you have really great taste. Learn About.