german shepherd puppy exercise limits

View fullsize The first labradoodle was developed in the 's in Australia as a means of providing allergy friendly coats on an intelligent service dog. With the name "labradoodle" being so popular, some breeders are crossing poodles with labrador retrievers and calling the resulting dogs "labradoodles. They might shed, they might trouble people with allergies, they might be a labrador or a poodle or almost anything in between. The goal of Multi-Generation Australian Labradoodle breeders is to develop a consistent breed with predictable traits. By breeding only multi-generation Australian Labradoodles with a lineage that can be traced back to Australia, we are doing our part to perfect and standardize the Australian Labradoodle breed. Many people who are allergic to dogs can have an Australian Labradoodle. Not only are they intelligent, but they are also very funny. With their floppy ears, wide-set eyes and wavy or curly coats, they can look like muppets. When introducing them, we like to tell people that "yes, they are as silly as they look. While resting they can assume what we call the " attack position " where their bellies are exposed, legs splayed out and tongue hanging out of their head that's lying on the ground. Australian Labradoodles are in love with the dishwasher. Anytime we are loading it they will be waiting to inspect everything that goes in. We got Matilda in .One year later we decided that with all three children away at college we should get another Australian Labradoodle and start breeding them. In we bought one of Tilly's unaltered little sisters from Pine Lodge Labradoodles. Look at our Labradoodling blog and our Puppies pages to see lots and lots of pictures. There are more pictures on Instagram. Our house sits on eight acres in Western Washington between Seattle and Bellingham. We had horses several years ago, the mare lived to be 37, the gelding we had out of her, .Now the barn is just where we lock the cat up at night. We let the dogs run wild in a large fenced yard when the weather cooperates, take them for long walks when it doesn't and keep them in the house with us the rest of the time. When the children visit they are all over their poochies, taking them for walks, runs, hikes and bike rides. And road trips. Having had many animals over the years, someone probably grumpy, maybe dad declared that there would be no more animals in the house. We had a barn, a yard and even some woods. There was plenty of room outside for all the animals anyone could need without having one stink up the house. That all changed when we got our Australian Labradoodles. If we wait too long between baths they will eventually smell like grass, which is where they spend most of their time in the summer. Otherwise you can walk into our house and not know we have dogs unless you see them. Or hear them. When you come visit, they'll say hi. The puppies we sell are registered with the ALAA and WALA , come with a two year health guarantee and will be sent to their forever home with their shots up to date, a microchip, a veterinarian's checkup and a free month of insurance available from Trupanion. Our first Australian Labradoodle. View fullsize. Wonderful Dogs Ideal family pets Your furry best friend. Burrinjuck Labradoodles is situated less than three hours from Melbourne. Our labradoodles are treasured members of our family. My husband and I, together with our daughter Bree are devoted to our labradoodles and share the responsibilities involved in training, loving and caring for them. The labradoodle puppies that we breed are raised on our lifestyle property. We understand how vitally important the first eight weeks are for the health, well being and social development of your puppy. It is crucial that puppies have multiple opportunities to interact with people from an early age. We devote many hours of quality interaction time with our puppies, as this is how puppies learn about social bond and develop confidence and trust. Our puppies are raised in an optimal environment for mental stimulation and cognitive learning. Puppies have there own playground, filled with play equipment, obstacle courses and novel toys. Your puppy will have the best possible start to life. Get in touch We are an ethical breeder, providing beautiful Labradoodle puppies that are raised with continual love and attention. Our Labradoodle puppies are raised in a loving home with plenty of cuddles, and human contact, which helps in socialising them from an early age. We utilise our years of experience to implement a balanced approach to breeding. As a result, we have formed a breeding model that is strongly supported by both science and research, as well as morality and ethics. Because of this, our guardian program also forms a pivotal part of our breeding ethos. We are incredibly proud to be a Labradoodle breeder using dynamic methods and producing stellar Labradoodle puppies. Each of our Labradoodle puppies is socialised extensively with humans, and other dogs. As an ethical Labradoodle breeder, they are raised in our home with our children, and are given as many cuddles as they can handle! The love is returned with plenty of sloppy kisses. More information We carry out extensive health and genetic testing on our dogs prior to breeding. See FAQs for more information. Our Labradoodle puppies are multigenerational with a gorgeous nature and temperament, not to mention their stunning good looks! Our puppies are wormed at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks, and are vaccinated, micro chipped, and de-sexed prior to collection for your convenience. We are so confident in the superior quality of our breeding that we also offer a 3-year health guarantee. Contact us or join our waitlist.

I think it's going well, but this is our first time, and I was hoping you wise and welcoming dog people could help me with a couple of concerns. We use all her food to train her, and higher value treats for recall, hide and seek, and the only thing she's hesitant about so far--water. She settles well in her crate and naps about every two hours. If we try to settle her out with us, we end up with the thrashing-biting- zoomies. When we tell her "kennel", I feel like she's relieved, and she enters and sleeps we do close the door and cover with a towel. Am I interpreting her right? Can we keep crating her for naps for now working on preventing zoomies? Or will that mean she doesn't learn to relax with the family? She can't play in our yard anymore because she is attempting to eat her weight in soil. She will also chew up sticks, acorns, grass etc. We stop her, but is this normal and will she outgrow it? If she starts doing it outside our yard, I don't know what we'll do because she has to romp outside somewhere! My final question for now is the water thing. It's been 95 degrees here, she's black lab, and I'm totally mystified that she doesn't enjoy water. I've looked it up and tried a lot of things plastic wading pool in the backyard, and going in with her. We allow her to make all her own choices but do encourage and throw a treat party when she enters. Still, she'll only go up to her "knees" in the bay gentle sloping entrance, no waves, sandy bottom. Should we keep trying once a day, or back off? Other positive things we could try? I'm concerned that if she doesn't swim and love it before 16 weeks, the window of new experience will close and she'll never like water. Not a problem if her eventual family doesn't live near it or like it, but she might go to a child or parent with children who does want to take her to the water. Thanks so much for reading and for any thoughts you want to share! Print If you have a week-old Lab puppy, you probably have your hands full. They are growing quickly, both in size and knowledge, but they are also still a bit like toddlers, always getting into something. Here is the training for your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post seven of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Bubba Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy Here are the things we worked on this week while training of Bubba. Working on control As Bubba matures, we need to work on more control. Bubba must learn to control herself in different situations. We continue to work on these control situations, but we are now adding more opportunities to exhibit control. This is challenging for a puppy her age, she wants to bolt out of the crate, but she must exhibit control and wait for the release command. Obedience training your week-old puppy We continue to work on obedience training using a chain collar and heeling stick. Bubba is learning to walk at our side, but it is far from perfect. She is also sitting on command, with occasional reminders from the heeling stick. I continue to work on strengthening her SIT. I can currently walk away from Bubba steps, and she will remain seated, but she makes lots of mistakes. I move my body while I stand a couple feet from her, and command SIT at the same time. It is very hard for puppies to understand that they must remain seated and still when someone else is moving. But it will all come. It just takes a lot of repetition and enforcement. I will slowly extend the distance between Bubba and myself. A stronger SIT will also take some maturity. As Bubba gets older the obedience will get easier for her to understand and to complete the necessary commands. But I will also make the training more difficult by adding distractions. It is not easy, and I did resort to treat training as I bid time to teach with the electronic collar. The treat training has helped a lot but has also resulted in some bad behaviors. Bubba is now jumping on me more because she anticipates a treat from my pocket. I have been firm and consistent in correcting the jumping, but it is most definitely a result of the treat training. In addition, Bubba thinks she should get a treat for doing things she has been doing for weeks without a treat. I will continue with the treats for the HERE command for the next few weeks, and then I will start weaning her off them. Introducing your Labrador puppy to hunting elements Bubba is almost done her introduction to hunting elements except for gunfire. Gunfire must be done slowly, with the noise getting incrementally closer to Bubba over time. We have already started this introduction, but it will be several months or more before we move the gunfire right next to her. Introducing your puppy decoys in water Swimming is something Bubba loves to do, so this week we added water marks with decoys in the water. We give her the time to check out the decoys with no correction and when she finally picks up the bumper, we praise her with a Good Dog. A few marks through decoys will be enough to teach Bubba that the decoys are not the thing she should be retrieving. I will continue this training for Bubba for the next couple weeks and then will stop since she will be teething, and I do not want to cause her any pain while doing this training. Increased distance for assistant marks Assistant marks are vital for teaching Bubba to mark watch where the bird fell so she can run to the correct area. We make sure she gets marks every day, but we limit the number of marks she gets to three. The reason we do this is because with young pups you want to build their retrieving desire. Desire is built not by giving your puppy unlimited retrieves. It is built by limiting the number of retrieves the puppy gets at any one time. My husband likes to compare it to a Thanksgiving dinner. If you sit down and eat a huge plate full of food, you are not going to be hungry a few hours later. But if you only get a little piece of turkey for your meal and then are told that is all there is, you will be very hungry the next time you are offered food. If you have a dog struggling with desire, you want to limit the retrieves. Sometimes to only one per day, or one every other day. Bubba is not struggling with desire at all, so we stick to three retrieves per day. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy Your puppy is probably advancing well in training at this point. You should see some marked improvement in her obedience and behavior. Set some reasonable boundaries and enforce them. Work on obedience on a regular basis, even if only for 5 minutes a day. If you do, you will see your dog grow in leaps and bounds. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Training your week-old Labrador puppy? Puppy training development after 6 months It is very tempting to get carried away with puppy training. Your young do is so willing to please and such fun to be around. It is important to go at a happy pace for you both. Positive reinforcement training is the right choice for your puppy because there are no negative consequences to getting something wrong. But you can still both suffer from burnout and frustration if you try to reach the later puppy training stages without totally aceing the earlier developments. Your Puppy Training Schedule This may not be exactly the same for each puppy, especially with retrieving which is more Labrador specific. However, it gives you a rough idea. Constantly changing direction. Stopping frequently for cuddles and rewards. This means I blow the recall whistle whenever the puppy runs towards me, no compulsion, and no whistle unless the recall is already underway. Socialisation: Lots almost daily of outings to different places rural and urban carried Visits to family and friends. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow mouthing. Working with food: Learning how to take food gently without snatching or grabbing at the treat pot. I still give the puppy lots of encouragement by running away as soon as I blow the whistle. Socialisation: More socialisation, at least twice a week to busy public places. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow gentle mouthing. Retrieving: Encourage chase and pick up retrieve drive. Hand touch: I teach all new puppies to touch my hand with their noses. This is a great foundation for other skills. Recall: Puppy recall continues, reduce my run to a walk, avoid any distractions. Still frequently blow the recall whenever the pup runs towards me of her own free will. Socialisation: From ground level after vaccination. No other leash walking at all Bite inhibition: No biting, gentle mouthing allowed. Retrieving: Continue to build drive. Positions: I introduce three positions — sit, stand, down. What to expect from your 3 month old puppy Most three month old puppies will be sleeping through the night. And will be having less potty training accidents in the house. There are a few potty training problems that arise at this age, and they are all covered in 15 potty training problems solved. Biting is a big shock and a big problem for many new Lab puppy parents so do check out our complete guide to biting , and join the forum for help and support. Help encourage your puppy to stay in their bed while you are eating. I have a pot of dog treats on our kitchen table, and whenever we sit down to a meal, the puppy gets a treat each time she steps into her basket. Just a treat for stepping in there. What to expect from your 4 month old puppy Your 4 month old puppy will be pretty much potty trained, but accidents still happen if they are left alone too long. Biting is usually starting to subside now, and many four month old puppies will be able to mouth at your hand without hurting you. At this point I start to discourage all mouthing. I teach every puppy to let me touch her face or approach her with my hand, food, a leash etc while holding eye contact and not grabbing at me, or at what is in my hand. This is the age at which people often start to push forward with training. Your 4 month old puppy is capable of quite a lot. There is nothing wrong with teaching your puppy different cues and even some tricks. I recommend you still avoid long duration activities at this point as they are a common stumbling point with puppies young enough to have a short attention span. A ten second sit is ample. Add mild distractions Recall: Fade additional cues. Begin to whistle the pup and stand still. Add mild distractions. Clicker train to polish this in more mouthy puppies. No commands are needed for this. Gradual introduction of distractions. Advanced puppy training begins in earnest This is where I start a programme of sporting training with my Labs. You can begin raising your standards and expectations, asking for longer and more complex behaviors. Teaching your puppy to walk to heel nicely for longer distance and past all kinds of distractions and temptations. Or teaching your puppy to sit and stay for longer periods of time, and even while you go out of sight or while other dogs play nearby. What to expect from your six month old puppy Six months is a common time for people to have a lot of questions and to be struggling with a few challenges. This is now a very bouncy, quite powerful and rapidly maturing young dog. And you may need to patch up a few holes in his training or manners. We have a great article for owners of six month old Lab puppies.

They had been left alone by their owner to suffer through the night — and for one of them it was already too late. The surviving bulldog, dubbed Phoenix, was hairless, sick and clearly terrified by her sudden change of environment. She was started on antibiotics, steroids, medicated baths and foot soaks, and antihistamines, to treat her inflamed skin — and immediately she began to heal. Second Chance Dog Rescue When Phoenix improved to the point that she could be spayed, the surgeon found another horrible surprise. It was a miracle that the little dog had not died from complications or infection — proving that above all else Phoenix was a survivor. Her patient foster mom slowly began to train her on how to be a household pet — exposing her little by little to the outside world, and teaching her basic commands. Second Chance Dog Rescue Three months after Phoenix was abandoned, the little dog has finally learned what having a home really means. And her life as a spoiled pet is far from anything she could have imagined. By signing up, I agree to the Terms and Privacy Policy. Cookie Settings. Published on July 19, PM EDT Photo: roadogs Stanley the fluffy French bulldog has earned the nickname Stanley Smiles because of his big, natural grin, but just a few months ago, this adorable dog was found in "deplorable conditions. Yes, French bulldogs and English bulldogs are cute, but I think a lot of people have no idea how many health issues they can have and how expensive they can be to maintain. We spend a lot on vet bills," Carvey added about Roadogs. In May, authorities confiscated dogs, including Stanley, from a small residence in Modesto, California, after police officers responded to "a domestic violence call and found the dogs being kept in deplorable conditions," Carvey told PEOPLE about Stanley's origins. The authorities found the dogs packed in stacked crates with little room to move. Three Orphaned Bear Cubs Move to California Wildlife Center for a Second Chance "One officer recalled gagging and vomiting at the smell of ammonia and feces outside, and inside there was dry urine and feces all over the floors. The owner was taken to court a month later, and the DA was successful in getting all the dogs signed over to the Stanislaus Animal Services Agency. They then chose to work with several reputable rescues to ensure these dogs get the best homes. Roadogs was one of those rescues. Even though Stanley "stank of urine" and "was pretty disgusting" when he was rescued, the dog's personality shone through the muck. He was used to being confined in a cage, so even though he'll be in the bedroom with space and comfy beds, I'll find him squeezed in a tight spot behind the treadmill — or under a chest of drawers. I'm just letting him come around in his own time," she said of Stanley's recovery. Korean Animal Groups Save 21 Canines Left Behind at Dog Meat Farm from 'Unbearable Situation' While Stanley is rebounding well after his rescue, Roadogs hopes the story of how this cute-looking dog was found crammed in a filthy cage amongst dozens of other canines encourages animal lovers to research where they get their pets. These Greeders focus on creating the next rare 'It' dog just so they can charge more money — despite the fact that many of these dogs will have long-term health issues," Carvey said of illegal breeding operations that sell dogs online. That's how you end up with a situation like Stanley's, where dogs spend their lives in cages, living in filth," Carvey said. Stanley came from a Modesto duplex. And there are many more people out there with dog cages stacked in their homes or garages. Be vigilant. If you see something, report it. If you smell something, report it! Carvey also said that the easiest way to ensure you are not supporting animal cruelty when you get a pet is by adopting your furry friend from a reputable rescue or shelter. And if you adopt, you are definitely not supporting a puppy mill," she explained. For those set on purchasing a dog, Carvey advised that the animal lovers do their research, visit the home of the breeder they plan on buying from, and never agree to purchase a dog online without meeting the breeder and animal first. After some time at Roadogs recuperating from the neglect he experienced at his last home, Stanley is ready to find his forever family. The fluffy French bulldog is looking for a patient family willing to work with him on housetraining and prepared to keep Stanley on his raw food diet, according to Roadogs' Instagram. To learn more about Roadogs rescue and their life-saving work, visit the nonprofit's website. Related Articles. Call Vic Kasser or Email! If you take the time to find a good breeder and a healthy puppy, you will be so happy in the long run. There is less chance that you will have health problems in the long run, including behavioral problems of course this also deals with socialization of the puppy before 16 weeks and training. You will always have a friend in your breeder because they love to hear about their puppies. Luckily, many animal lovers are becoming aware that purchasing a dog-or any animal, for that matter-from a pet store is a big no-no. Almost all puppies sold at pet stores come from backyard breeders or puppy mills, where dogs are housed in cramped, filthy conditions without sufficient veterinary care, food, water and socialization. Furthermore, the breeding stock at puppy mills-the moms and dads-are bred as often as possible, for as long as possible, in order to increase profits. But a growing trend among commercial puppy breeders is to cut out the middleman-the pet shop-and use online retailing to get their dogs directly into your homes. Internet Puppy Scams Consumers trying to find dogs from reputable breeders or breed rescue groups often turn to the Web for advice. But they soon find themselves bombarded with elaborate websites offering the offspring of "champions. Don't be fooled: the Internet is a vast, unregulated marketplace allowing anyone to put up a website claiming anything. Scattered among the websites of reputable breeders and rescue groups, Internet puppy scammers attract potential buyers with endearing pictures and phony promises. However, the AWA does not regulate breeders that sell directly to the public. The AWA was passed in , prior to the Internet boom-lawmakers couldn't foresee that commercial breeders would someday have the ability to sell directly to the public via the Internet. This loophole allows some puppy mills to operate without a license and without fear of inspection-meaning they are not accountable to anyone for their breeding and care standards. The Scams An informal online survey conducted by the ASPCA reveals that just as many Americans are now purchasing their dogs over the Internet as buying from pet stores. That said, according to the Internet Crime Complaint Center, hundreds of complaints are filed every year from victims who were scammed when buying a dog online. What the consumer doesn't realize is that these are stock photos taken from a clip-art file-or simply stolen from other websites. In this scam, virtually all contact is done via email, and the puppy is typically shipped without the buyer ever seeing the dog in person. The scam is revealed when the dog is delivered and the buyer is faced not with the adorable puppy from the photos, but a sickly dog, often of a different color or with different markings. Scammers count on people feeling guilty or compassionate and choosing not to send the puppy back. They also resort to verbal deceit. With the "free to good home" scam, the perpetrator will often post a sad story of having to find homes for his purebred puppies immediately-he just lost his wife, they must be placed for a dying relative, he is going to Africa to be a missionary, etc. Buyers are asked to send all payments via a Western Union wire transfer or money order. These methods are favorites among scam artists because they are the equivalent of sending cash-the money can't be recovered by the victim. This scam is particularly heartbreaking because there is no real dog involved! Victims usually arrive at the airport to pick up their new puppy, only to find that they have been scammed. Unfortunately, this next scam preys on animal lovers who want to help dogs in need. In this scenario, the puppy mill will actually set up its website as a "rescue group" or "sanctuary," offering purebred puppies who have been rescued from shelters, bad breeders, even from puppy mills! Breed rescue groups charge nominal fees-usually no more than a few hundred dollars-because their goal is not to make money, but to find wonderful homes for their rescues. While many people believe AKC registration means their puppies came from reputable breeders, being AKC-registered means nothing more than your puppy's parents both had AKC papers. The fact is, many AKC-registered dogs are born in puppy mills. The best way to avoid being scammed is to simply never buy a dog you haven't met in person. Please also keep in mind that adoption is still the best option, even if you have your heart set on a purebred dog. There are thousands of dogs waiting for good homes at local animal shelters, including purebreds! Keep an eye on your local shelter, as purebreds turn up more often than people think. There are also a number of reputable breed rescue groups passionate about finding great homes for purebred dogs who have been abandoned, abused or surrendered to shelters. It's also important to note that the Internet is a very valuable tool for finding reputable breeders and breed rescue groups in your area. Reputable breeders and rescue groups will be more than happy to offer you a tour. A reputable breeder or rescue group will always take the puppy back, regardless of the reason. Do not meet at a random location. One such dog was Marty. In January his owners surrendered him to a rescue organization, and I decided to foster him. When I took Marty to his initial veterinary exam, I was shocked to learn of his extensive medical issues. He had splayed paws, was almost blind and had a serial number tattoo on his little, blond bat ear—all signs of the cruelty he had suffered for so many years. Marty was also in terrible pain from two abscesses in his mouth and severe spinal degeneration that left him struggling to walk. Through surgery and targeted laser therapy, Marty was able to regain some of his mobility, but he will continue to suffer the consequences of his puppy mill upbringing for the rest of his life. Marty now lives with a family who gives him constant love and care. Puppy mill operators care more about profits than puppies. All dogs deserve the good life—but as long as the secretive puppy-breeding industry continues to hide the truth, too many dogs will remain victims of its cruelty. Visit Barred From Love to find out how you can make a difference and stand up for dogs like Marty. Share Your Story Did you purchase a puppy from a pet store or online? Did you rescue a puppy mill dog? Your story and photos could aid us tremendously as we work to educate the public and expose inhumane breeders. The Bonhams have been linked to Petland. Missouri Department of Agriculture 1. Her ribs jut out; her hip bones and spinal column are starkly visible. And just beside her emaciated body is a pile of five tiny puppies sleeping next to an empty bowl. Protect dogs from cruel puppy mills! A Missouri Department of Agriculture inspector documented this boxer, whose name is Lindy Lou, at a breeding facility that is still licensed, not only by the state, but by the U. Department of Agriculture. Lindy Lou was not confiscated; the inspectors required the owner to have her treated by a veterinarian within two days of the inspection. An emaciated mother boxer documented with her puppies at Rocky Top K-9s by a state inspector. Something must be done. Every year in our Horrible Hundred report, we expose problem puppy mills across the U. The cruelty is never easy to witness or read about. But sharing the plight of dogs like that mother boxer and her puppies is essential to correcting a broken enforcement system that fails to prevent animal suffering. We publish the report in the hopes of raising that number every year. Among other things, the Horrible Hundred report concentrates pressure on government agencies to prioritize the enforcement of humane laws, to confiscate animals who are suffering and, where charges are warranted, to apply strong penalties. The report also serves as a powerful reminder for the public, educating them about common problems at puppy mills and urging people to do their due diligence when searching for a new puppy to bring home. Everyone can take a stand against cruel puppy mills by sharing this information with friends and family members about the shameful industry so often behind cute puppies in pet shop windows or pictured in ads online. We want to raise awareness of these problems and spare families from going through this painful and expensive experience. Takeaways from the new Horrible Hundred report show systemic problems with mass-scale breeders: Many of the puppy mills in this report have been featured in five, six or even eight previous years. For the 11th year in a row, Missouri had the most dealers in the report, with 31 dealers on the list, followed by Iowa and Ohio 13 each Pennsylvania eight and Kansas and New York six each. At least 12 of the puppy mills in the report have sold to Petland, the only national chain of puppy-selling pet stores still operating. Horrible Hundred highlights prove that dogs cannot wait for stricter enforcement: At the Rocky Top K-9s property in Missouri, an operation that appears in our report for the eighth time, state inspectors found cockroaches, piles of feces, and many other issues, in addition to the emaciated mother boxer. This adds to the many violations that have been found at the property over the past decade. Large dogs were confined in tiny airline crates and did not have access to water. At a breeding operation in Nebraska Clem Disterhaupt Jr. To underscore the urgency of helping dogs at these facilities, we are releasing undercover footage of some of the dealers listed in the report. You can advocate for better treatment of dogs currently languishing in puppy mills by asking your lawmakers to support the Puppy Protection Act of , which would require greater standards of care at commercial dog breeding operations licensed by the USDA. Animal shelters are full of dogs and cats who would make wonderful companions. And sign this pledge to never buy a puppy from a pet store or online , as you could be supporting puppy mills with your purchase. It was a relief to see it on my schedule as the last appointment of a busy day. As soon as I entered the room, however, I noticed the grim faces of the clients, and when I saw the little female dog, I knew why. The pup, skinny and pot-bellied, was less than half the size she should have been. She weighed just two pounds; I was shocked to discover that she had been trucked from Kansas to Massachusetts just three days earlier. The couple, who had paid a considerable amount of money for her, did not believe she was from a puppy mill. They had carefully chosen the breeder, they explained, who had been recommended by a friend. The breeder had sent them photos and even videos. But the pup had been purchased online—which to me had become a warning sign that meant: from an online puppy mill, a sinister new frontier in the fight against commercial dog-breeding. Puppy mills are factory farms that mass-produce dogs. Pet stores rely on puppy brokers to act as distributors and source animals from various puppy mills. Now, with pet stores facing criticism for selling these puppies , puppy mills and brokers have shifted online, where they can maximize profits by selling directly to consumers. Yet all too often, the opposite is true. Read More: The U. The puppies that are born at the mills are not blank slates; like children, their personalities are affected by their surroundings. Rescues, shelters, and reputable breeders identify the temperaments of animals and try to match them to prospective families. A lack of socialization is a recipe for anxiety, and many grow up to become anxious dogs. A Golden Retriever puppy I saw who was purchased online was so fearful he had to be carried into the veterinary clinic, where he cowered under the table. Puppy mills also breed without screening for genetic diseases, and neglect to consider health or temperament when choosing breeding stock. They love their chosen breed and are devoted to their dogs, who are properly screened for breed-specific genetic health problems. Breeding dogs are well treated, not overbred, and typically live in the home, not a kennel or cage. Breeders also take an active role in puppy rearing, learning the temperaments of each individual and matching them to families. A great deal of care and attention goes into planning and raising each litter. As a result, the puppies are not mass produced, and these breeders may not have puppies available, might have a waiting list, and, like animal rescues and shelters, often ask prospective buyers an annoying number of questions to ensure their pups will go to a good home. That pup with the markings you fell in love with? She may be shy, and only allowed to go to a home without young children. This can be especially important for breeds prone to chronic medical problems, like French Bulldogs, who often suffer from Brachycephalic Airway Obstruction Syndrome BAOS and may require expensive surgery just to breathe comfortably. Now the most popular breed in the U. Yes, locating a pup from a rescue, shelter, or breeder can take more work, time, and patience than purchasing one from an online puppy store. But it can result in a healthier, happier dog that is a better fit for your family. It can also help end the abuses of puppy mills, support more informed breed choices, and ensure better care for animals. What I could tell them, though, was that they currently had a special-needs puppy on their hands, one who required extra care and who faced an uncertain prognosis. If they chose to return her, she might not survive being shipped back to the breeder, who would likely euthanize her. A sickly puppy is a risk breeders take, but only an industry which puts profits before puppies would sell and ship an animal in such poor condition and pocket thousands of dollars. Puppy mills are taking advantage of both people and animals with misleading websites and false claims. We cannot fall for them. If you are considering applying for one of our puppy mill survivors, please read the following essay and think very carefully about whether you can provide the consistency, patience, experience and care that a puppy mill dog requires to thrive. If you are a first time dog owner, a puppy mill dog is probably not for you. However, once you have been an experienced dog owner, you may find that sharing your life with a puppy mill dog creates a unique bond. Please note that an adopted puppy mill rescued dog may be at different stages of rehab so we have tried to start this from the beginning. Permission is granted to use this article, unedited, on your website or in print, as long as credit is linked to this page. Every mill survivor is different. What works on one, or many, will completely fail on others; the only thing that is consistent is that they will need lots of patience, understanding, love, and probably most importantly, unconditional acceptance of what they are and what their limitations may be. At first glance a mill survivor may look like many of your friends' dogs; maybe not a perfect example of the breed, but close. What you won't see is the condition they were in when they came into rescue. Many have fur so matted that it all had to be shaved off, and even the short haired breeds suffer from thin dull coats. Many times removing the filth and matting have revealed open sores, usually from flea allergies or sarcoptic mange. Their ears are often full of filth and usually mites, and some survivors suffer from permanent hearing loss because of untreated ear infections. Most survivors require the removal of rotten teeth, even young dogs. Their gums are usually very infected and the teeth have excessive buildup on them. Many vets who are not familiar with puppy mill rescued dogs will miscalculate the age of the dog if using only the teeth as their guide. Many survivors also suffer from swollen, splayed and sore feet from so much time walking on wire. While finally getting some good nutrition and extensive medical care after arriving in rescue, all too often there remains the psychological damage that can't be fixed with a bath, medicine, or surgery. We would love to say that every puppy mill survivor only needs love to turn it into a wonderful family pet, but that would be a lie. Love is definitely needed in large amounts, but so is patience. The damage done during the years in the mill usually can be overcome, but it takes time and dedication. It takes a very special adopter for one of these dogs. Not being "up to it" is no crime, but you need to be honest with yourself, and us, about your expectations. These dogs have already been through more than their share of heartache and if your entire family is not willing to make the commitment, the dog is better off staying in our care until the perfect home for them is found. Handling: Many mill survivors have spent their entire lives in the mill with only an elevated wire cage to call home. Puppies growing up in a mill miss out on many crucial socialization periods with humans and they never learn to trust, to love, or to play. They have had minimum physical contact with people and have virtually no concept of what to expect or what is expected of them when they are placed in a family situation. Their life in the mill may have been what we would consider unpleasant, but it is the only life they have ever known. In the mill, they were probably fed and watered using automatic dispensers, and their feces and urine was only cleaned after it fell through the wire that they lived on. Actual human contact normally came when they were being vaccinated, dewormed, or moved to a new cage to breed or to whelp puppies. Many of the quirks that mill dogs might have will be discovered while the dog is still in our rescue, but there are things that may develop after the dog feels a little more comfortable in your home. Most of the dogs we encounter have had their spirit broken many years before and aggression is not normally something we encounter; however, there are memory triggers that the dog may experience after it is settled in your home, so we will talk briefly about these. The physical contact that they have received probably has not been pleasant. For one thing, because they are not handled enough, they are scared. Many mills handle their "stock" by the scruff of the neck. They have work to do, and don't really want to stand around holding some stinky little dog any longer than necessary. It is not uncommon for these survivors to be sensitive at the backs of their necks, after all, touch there brings the unexpected. Many mill dogs will try to always face you, not trusting you enough to give you easy access to them from behind. NEVER startle a mill survivor from behind: you will lose any trust that you may have gained. Always make sure that they are anticipating being picked up and consistently tell them what you are going to do with the same word, like "up". It is not uncommon for a mill dog to drop their bellies to the floor when they know you are going to pick them up, some will even roll on their backs, often urinating in the process. This is a submissive move on the dog's part, and while it may be frustrating trying to pick up a dog in this position, these dogs will seldom show aggression in their lives. It is okay to pick up a dog while they are in this position, but if time is not of the essence, encourage the dog to come to you by sitting a few feet away and calling him. The most common posture we see in mill dogs is the "freeze;" the dog will initially try to escape you, but when they realize there is no escape, they simply freeze up--rigid, like a statue--and accept their "fate. Always be gentle and try to avoid picking them up until you see that they are receptive to it. Imagine how you would feel if taken hostage at gunpoint. The gunman may never harm you in any way, but you are aware of the danger the entire time, and you don't have the ability to leave when you want. No matter how nice the gunman is to you, you will never enjoy the experience and will always watch for an escape route; however, you can turn the tables around and see a ray of hope. Imagine the gunman has been captured and you decide to visit him in jail. Now you are in control. You call all the shots, and you have the ability to leave at any time. The bottom line is that these dogs have to progress at their own pace. Anything you force them to do will not be pleasant to them; let them visit with you on their terms, whenever possible. .Learning about the House: Many times when you bring a mill survivor into your home, it is their instinct to hide in a quiet corner. Any new dog that you bring into your home should be kept separated from other family pets for 7 days. During this time it is fine to crate or confine them to a quiet area. After that, though, they should have exposure to the household. If crating, the crate should be in a central location. The ideal spot is one where there is frequent walking and activity. This allows the dog to feel safe in the crate, yet observe everyday activity and become accustomed to it; they need to hear the table being set, the dishwasher running, phones ringing, and people talking. Very few mill dogs know what a leash is. After the quarantine, when the dog is out of the crate and supervised, it is not a bad idea to let them drag a leash around with them. Let them get used to the feel. It is easy to fall into the mindset that they must be pampered and carried everywhere, but leash training is important. It will make your life easier to have a leash trained dog, but it will also offer your dog confidence in the future. Gaining Trust: A mill dog has no reason to trust you. Your trust needs to be earned, little by little. Patience is a very important part of rehabbing a mill survivor. We have seen a lot of mill dogs that don't want to eat whenever people are around. It is important that your mill dog be fed on a schedule, with you nearby. You don't have to stand and watch over them, but you should be in the same room with them. They need to know that their yummy meal is coming from you. For the majority of mill dogs, accepting a treat right out of your hand is a huge show of trust. Offer treats on a regular basis especially as a reward. Don't concern yourself too much if your dog does not eat for a few days. Because most of our mill rescues have been fed with self-feeders and confined to small places, it is not uncommon for them to be a little overweight. If there is no vomiting or diarrhea and your dog is otherwise acting healthy, a few days of nibbling at their food while they learn to live by your schedule, is not going to hurt them. It is important to teach them that food is fed on a schedule and you should not be leaving food down at all times. While you shouldn't force yourself upon your dog, she does need to get used to you. Sit and talk quietly while gently petting or massaging your dog. It is best to do this an area where she, not necessarily you, is the most comfortable. Some dogs sadly, never will adjust, and we'lll talk more about them later. Never allow friends to force attention on a mill survivor. Ask them not to look your dog directly in the eyes. It is not uncommon for mill dogs to simply never accept outsiders. Let your dog set the pace. If the dog approaches, ask them to talk quietly and hold out a hand. No quick movements. Ask that any barking be ignored. Remember that these dogs bark to warn and scare off intruders. If you acknowledge the barking you may be reinforcing it with attention. If you take your guest outside, you have just reinforced to your dog that barking will make the intruder go away. Housebreaking: A child spends the first one to two years of their life soiling their diaper and having you remove the dirty diaper and replace it with a clean one. A puppy mill dog spends its entire life soiling its living area. Potty training a child and housebreaking a puppy mill dog are the exact same procedures.A regular schedule, constant reinforcement, praise, and commitment on your part are musts! Would you scream at your child, march him to the bathroom and make him sit on the toilet AFTER you discovered he soiled his diaper? A dog is no different in this sense; scolding them after the deed is done is of no benefit to anyone. The two most important things you can do are to get your new dog on a regular feeding schedule which will put them on a regular potty schedule and to observe them closely after feeding time. Getting them on a premium, low residue food is very important. This will produce a stool that normally is firm very easy to clean up and only one or two bowel movements a day are normal. Low cost or over the counter foods have a lot of fillers, and it is very hard to get a dog on a regular cycle using these foods. Before you even begin to housebreak them, you must learn their schedule. As soon as they are finished eating, command "outside". Always use the exact same word in the exact same tone. Watch them closely outside and observe their pattern as they prepare to defecate. Some will turn circles, some will scratch at the ground, some may find a corner, some may sniff every inch of the ground, some will get a strange look on their face.We could give you a million tips that our adopters have found to work best for them, but as we have said, every dog is different. As long as you always keep in mind that housebreaking and potty training are one in the same, you should eventually see results. Never do to a dog what you would not do to a child. It may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year.In most cases, the success of housebreaking depends on your commitment. While we have focussed mainly on bowel movements, urinating in the house is just as hard to correct as defecating in the house if not worse. Below we will discuss "marking," which many people associate only with male dogs. We will go into that in more detail, but if urinating in the house remains a problem for your dog, we highly recommend crate training. This can be researched online in more detail, but if crate training is not working because your dog is soiling in the crate, you should discontinue the training immediately--as you are only reinforcing that it is okay to soil their area. In general, if you can understand your dog's bowel patterns, you will usually find that they urinate before or after a bowel movement. Reinforce the positive and work on the negative, as most dogs will understand "outside" and associate it with both urinating and defecating. Of course, in the meantime, you will want to protect your carpets by either removing any that can be rolled up, or confining the dog to a tiled floor when you aren't holding it on your lap. This should only be done during the training process, as socialization is just as important as house training and often tiled floors are in areas that we don't spend a lot of time. Marking: Puppy mill survivors all have one thing in common.A dog that marks its territory is 'warning' other dogs that this is its area.However, in a puppy mill situation, the dog's area is normally a 2X4 cage with other dogs in and around their 'territory'. It becomes a constant battle of establishing territory and it is not uncommon to see male and female survivors with marking problems. Normally, marking is seen in dogs with a dominant nature. This is good in the sense that these dogs can normally withstand verbal correction better than submissive dogs. The word 'NO' will become your favorite word as you try to deal with the problem of dogs that mark. Don't be afraid to raise your voice and let the dog know that you are not happy. Always use the exact same word and don't follow 'NO' with "now what has mommy told you about that, you are a bad dog. You have to teach them that it is not acceptable to do this in the house. The only way to do this is to constantly show your disappointment and stimulate their need to 'dominate' by allowing them more time outside, and even to areas where you know other dogs have been.While you and your survivor learn about each other, and your survivor develops a sense of respect towards you, you will have to protect your home from the damage caused by marking. Here are a few tips that you will find helpful. White vinegar is your best friend. Keep a spray bottle handy at all times. Use the vinegar anytime you see your dog mark. The vinegar will neutralize the smell that your dog just left behind. Using other cleaning products may actually cause your dog to mark over the same area again. Most cleaning products contain ammonia.Your dog will feel the need to mark over normal cleaning products, but normally has no interest in areas neutralized by vinegar. Potty Pads.These can be found in any pet store, but most 'housebreaking pads' are treated with ammonia to encourage a puppy to go on the pad instead of the carpet; since we are trying to discourage your dog from marking, these aren't always the best choice. You might check at a home medical supply store. The blue and white pads used to protect beds usually work best. Staple, tape or pin these pads white side facing outward to any area that your dog is prone to mark walls, furniture, etc. Do not replace the pads when your dog soils them.These are not a solution to the problem, but will help protect your home while you deal with the problem. Scotch Guard. Scotch Guard is really nothing more than a paraffin based protector. It puts a waxy substance down which repels water and spills and in our case, urine. Shake and spray this onto the fabric areas you want to protect, such as the base of the sofa and the carpet below doorways or areas your dog is apt to mark. It may make the area stiff feeling at first but it will normally 'blend' in with normal household temperatures and humidity. After the first use, you will need to microwave the bottle and emerge the spray mechanism in a bowl of hot water so that any wax residue will melt. I have never had any problems, but it is always best to check beforehand. Belly Bands. Belly bands can be easily made at home out of things you probably already have. Depending on the size of your dog you can use the elastic end of tube socks, the sleeve of a sweatshirt, etc. Simply fit the material to your dog and then place a female sanitary napkin under the penis. Another easy way is to measure your dog, cut the fabric and sew on Velcro to hold it in place. There are also many sites on the Internet to order these if making them yourself is just not up your alley. Just remember to take the belly band off every time you bring your dog out to potty. Again, this is not a solution, but a protective measure. Quirks: Poo-poo, shoo-shoo, ca-ca, doo-doo, 2, feces, poop, stool.But nothing is more gross than owning a dog who eats poop! Coprophagia is the technical term, but for the purpose of this article, we're just going to call it the 'affliction'. Dogs of all breeds, ages and sizes have the affliction but in puppy mill rescues, it is not uncommon at all to find dogs afflicted with this horrible habit. As in any bad habit, the cure lies in understanding the unacceptable behavior. There are three primary reasons that a puppy mill survivor is afflicted. We'll start with the most common, and easiest to remedy. It tastes good and they are hungry! Rescues that have come from a mill where dogs were not fed properly often resort to eating their own or other dog's feces as a source of food. These types of situations will usually remedy themselves when the dog realizes that he is always going to get fed. It is also easy to discourage this behavior by adding over-the-counter products to their food which are manufactured for this purpose. Ask your vet which products are available and you will normally see results in weeks. Learned behavior. This is usually the cause of puppy mill dogs that have the affliction. There are several reasons why a dog learned to behave like this, but the most common cause is being housed with dominant dogs who fight over food. These dominant dogs will often guard the food dish and prevent the more submissive dogs from eating even if the dominant dog is not hungry. Food aggression in caged dogs is usually fast and furious and often results in severe injury to the submissive dogs. Because the dominant dog is often eating much more than is needed, the stool is virtually undigested and contains many of the nutrients and 'flavors' of the original meal; therefore almost as tasty to the submissive dog as if he'd ate the real thing. Puppies that were raised with a dominant mother or dominant litter mates also pick up this habit very early--in this case, it is a little harder to treat, but it can usually be done. This eating pattern is usually maintained throughout the dog's life, so the age of your dog will play a big role in how hard it is to correct the behavior. It's become habit.Dogs with the affliction will actually go hunting for a fresh stool when you take them outside. The key is to give your dog something better to hunt for. You may find something that he likes better and is as readily available and affordable. The good thing about popcorn is what your dog doesn't eat, the birds will. We can almost guarantee that once your dog has learned to search out the popcorn, he'll pass those fresh turds right up, LOL! It may take weeks or months before your dog 'unlearns' to seek out stools but most dogs are receptive to this training. You may have to sprinkle the lawn with popcorn the rest of your dog's life.As mentioned above, Coprophagia means 'eating poop'. Coprophagia is a form of a much more serious problem called Pica. Pica is the unnatural compulsion to eat foreign objects. Dogs suffering from Pica will eat not only stools, but rocks, dirt, sticks, etc. A good rescuer will observe dogs prior to placement and will recognize the seriousness of this problem. A dog suffering from Pica should never be placed in an inexperienced home or any home that is not aware of the problem and the dangers. Dogs suffering from Pica will often end up having surgery.If you are the owner of a dog which you believe suffers from Pica, I suggest you consult your vet; these dogs often require medication for their disorder and only your vet can guide you on the best way to proceed. Before we close this section on Pica, we want to say that true Pica is rare. Most dogs will chew on sticks or rocks--or sofas and table legs. However a dog suffering from Pica will not just chew on these items.Just because your dog is eating his own stool.If in doubt, consult your vet. The "special" ones: Occasionally, we see the survivor who has survived the mill, but at such a great cost that they can never be "brought around". These are the dogs that have endured so much suffering that they remind us of children who are abused, and survive by separating their mind from the body. These damaged dogs will never fully trust anyone. So where does that leave these poor souls? Most are still capable of living out a wonderful life. They need a scheduled environment but most importantly, a home where they are accepted for who and what they are. They may never jump up on a couch and cuddle with you, or bring you a ball to play catch, but you will see the joy that they take in living each day knowing that they will have clean bedding, fresh food and water, and unconditional love. To them, those small comforts alone are pure bliss. These "broken ones" are the ones that normally never leave their foster homes. Ironically, these types of dogs normally do very well in a group-dog setting. They seem to have shunned the world, and most certainly mankind, and have created their own little world without humans. Whenever we suspect that a mill rescue may be "too far gone" for a fast paced family, we try to place them in experienced homes; quiet homes; or homes with other dogs. These are by far the hardest ones for our hearts to accept, but they are also a constant reminder of why we do what we do. We work not only to adopt dogs, but to educate their new owners about the truth behind that puppy in the pet store window. We hope that you will keep a journal or blog on the reform of your puppy mill dog, and we hope that you will join us in our campaign to educate the public--through the eyes of the survivors--by always taking the opportunity to further educate others. Together we have made a difference in the life of just one dog, but together we can also make a difference in the lives of hundreds of thousands of dogs still caged in puppy mills. It is only when the public realizes the connection between pet stores and puppy mills that we will end the demand, end the supply, and end the abuse! Copyright A New Start on Life,

It all started when we became empty-nesters and purchased our first lab, since then our Lab family has continued to grow. We strive to breed for great all around family Labradors that are healthy, calm, intelligent, and are of the beautiful English type Labs stocky bodies, square, blocky heads. We're happy to answer any questions you may have. Thanks for visiting! Healthy Parents We welcome litters a year with the goal of producing healthy family dogs, all purpose Labradors placed in loving homes. We strive for good temperament, structurally sound, intelligence and to improve the breed. Our Labs are sweet, intelligent, easily trained, and so eager to please. Our Labrador Retrievers have superior pedigrees with champion bloodlines from traditional English lines. We do recommended Genetic health testing. The puppies are also dewormed at recommended times. We keep puppies until 8 weeks of age. Labs take 2 to 3 years to develop mentally and physically, training is an important part of the development of your Lab. We strongly recommend you locate a Beginner puppy class, enroll and take several classes. Labs are very intelligent and require socializing, training and exercise. Labs do not socialize themselves. Commitment to the welfare of your dog is extremely important. This puppy will be with you the next years. It's important our puppies are placed in homes where they receive the type of care Lab puppies need. Striving for excellent quality with emphasis on temperament, conformation, intelligence and all around health. Our dogs come from top pedigree, filled with champion lines. Our goal is to produce calm, intelligent "English" Labradors who will provide wonderful companions to you and your family. We are a small kennel, located outside of Alliance, Ohio and believe in producing the utmost quality in our pups. Therefore, we are able to make sure all of our breeding stock and pups receive lots of attention and care. We believe that Labs are at their best when they are in the companionship of people, and where they have freedom to run and play. We take great pride in the quality of the pups we produce emphasizing temperament, conformation and all around health. Our dogs have great pedigrees, filled with champions, from traditional English lines. Our pups are in homes throughout the United States and have proven to be accomplished service dogs, therapy dogs, hunters and companions to many families. You can see many, many years of our dogs, growing from pups to seniors, as well as testimonials from puppy families, on our Facebook page at Maple Creek Labradors. Our Labradors are the 'English' type, meaning they have a square or 'blocky' head, a well muscled body and thick bone. Their soft, kind expression make them instantly lovable. They are not separate color genes. We do not breed dilutes, nor do we support them.

Puppy Supplies Welcome to Buck Family Farm, a place where our love for Golden Retrievers has evolved into a passion for providing families with affectionate, intelligent, and healthy Golden Retriever Puppies. Our goal is to make sure your next family pet is everything you expected and more. Our Dogs Our family specializes in raising Golden Retrievers of all coat shades who enjoy our spacious 20 acre farm. It is important to us that each dog gets special attention and care each day. Our family-style setup allows our dogs to have the luxury of running free and romping around to their hearts' content while playing together and with our family. Also, since this is our at-home classroom, someone is always available to play ball or give a much needed scratch on the belly and pat on the head. Genetic testing is also performed on each dog to help us make wise choices for the best pairings and to produce puppies with the best probability of excellent health. Of high importance however, is taking into consideration the temperament of each of our Golden Retrievers to produce a well balanced and friendly companion, who exhibits all of the classic traits of the breed. Puppies Buck Family Farm puppies are AKC registered, vet certified, have first shots, are wormed and will come to your home with a 1 year health guarantee and a first bag of puppy food. We also send a blanket with mommy's scent and all appropriate NYS paperwork as well as copies of parents' health clearances. Our desire is to make your experience with us and our puppies everything you expected and more. Puppy Applications If you are interested in purchasing a puppy from our farm please fill out an adoption application to help us get to know you a little better. When your application is accepted you will have the opportunity to place your name on our waiting list for an additional fee. This ensures a courtesy call when a particular color, gender or litter of choice has arrived. You will then have the opportunity to place a deposit on one of our puppies. You will receive a courtesy notification of the litters' arrival and have opportunity to place a deposit. However, deposits that are not submitted promptly will affect your pick-order. Deposits are usually non-refundable. Placing a Deposit Once a new litter is born and determined to be healthy and thriving, we open them for deposit. First, to those on our waiting list, and then to families who have pre-approved applications. We choose puppies at 5 weeks of age in the order that deposits were placed. Please contact us for Paypal, zelle and Venmo handles. Visiting We frequently update pictures of all puppies on a regular basis. You will not be allowed to visit the puppies or parents until mommy is settled in and feeling comfortable with visitors. At 5 weeks of age we have adopting families visit our farm and choose their puppy. Puppies are chosen in the order that deposits were placed. Homecoming At 8 weeks of age and after veterinary examination, puppies will be united with their forever families! Both of which conduct yearly inspections and verify my dogs are all well cared for. I have been breeding Golden Retrievers since .I hold a degree in Animal Science. I have worked several years in an active animal hospital. I administer most of my own vaccines, conduct progesterone testing with my own machine determines best timing of breeding through collection of blood sample , and I conduct my own ultrasound at home for confirmation of pregnancies. I conduct natural breeding with all my dogs. Delivery of puppies also occurs at my home naturally unless an emergency health issue dictates otherwise. I am very passionate about the care of my dogs and strive to have the healthiest and happiest puppies possible. If you would like to see more detailed information about Hilltop Golden Retriever, please continue to read on and click through all the tabs of this website. Hilltop Golden Retriever Location: If your still unsure of where South Westerlo is located, we are about 25 minutes northwest of Catskill and 35 minutes southwest of Albany capital of NY. We are closest to Albany International Airport if you are looking to fly. If you are looking for a direct flight, you might want to look into Newark but would require a car rental and some travel time on the road. If you are traveling from decent distance away and in search of a hotel. If your early for your puppy pickup appointment and looking to get something to eat, a few minutes away in Greenville you can find the Tasting Lab or the Tiny Diner to sit down at. If you want something quicker check out the hot dog stand in front of the Tiny Diner or the Dunkin Donuts just up the road off of .I worked several years as a veterinarian technician assistant in a very active animal hospital. Over the years I learned so much and gained a lot of experience that has helped me excel as a breeder. While I was attending college, I ended up meeting my husband. He also shared my passion in dogs. She was my dream come true and truly encouraged me to be the breeder I am today. I fell in love with a dark female puppy from the litter. Over time and seeing so many families pleased with our puppies we wanted to grow. We felt that a large property was a must for our dogs to exercise and play. We ended up selling our first home and purchasing the house where we reside now. Technically our mailing address is in Greenville however we are in fact in South Westerlo within the hills of Albany county. Both of our families are from the area, so the transition was very supportive and the location is very easy to travel from or to the New York State Thruway or from Interstate I.Soon after our move we have spent so much time with creating the best environment and care for our dogs. Throughout the year we get visited by the state and AKC to verify our dogs are in the best care possible. Everything was thought of during this build. The building consists of two floors. Fans are optional throughout the entire interior. We have additional propane heaters that will work with no electricity. The floors have built in drainage and are covered in grippy flecked epoxy. Our dogs have constant access to water and have comfortable Kuranda beds to lay on. We have designated areas for our older puppies after mom is done nursing them. These areas consist of very nice over-sized play areas. The walls are made out of washable white plastic, and we use g-flooring with fresh wood chips for the bedding. The puppies have plenty of toys and their own Kuranda bed s that they love to lay on or hide below it. Our outside run area consists of a fully covered roof, so our dogs are protected from the elements, with lighting and fans. The play area has over feet of beautiful black chain link fencing. The large play area also offers a doggy playground area where they have plenty of toys to tug and pull on. About our Dogs: We strive to provide the best and healthiest lines of Golden Retrievers. We spend endless hours in search and communication with multiple breeders from all over the United States. Checking pedigrees and clearances prior to committing with a new line. We have made some amazing relationships with some of the best breeders, all of which share the same common goal of breeding healthy AKC Golden Retrievers. We raise and train all of our puppies within our home. We work with commands, potty training, and socialization on many different platforms and various environments. Early on we are verifying their personality and traits are conclusive with a possible prospect for future breeding. As time goes on, we decide if they are a good candidate or not for breeding. If they are a good candidate additional health testing is scheduled per their age. We conduct several medical tests to verify healthy lines prior to breeding. The health tests set us apart from most breeders that claim their dogs are healthy per a veterinarian check or that claim that they conduct DNA genetic health testing but nothing else. One of the first health tests that we conduct and one of the most important tests on all our dogs, is DNA genetic testing. We have used Animal Genetics in the past but have been shifting towards using Embark. This test allows us to verify we have the best pairing of parents prior to breeding and that we are not passing on bad genes that could be avoidable issues in the future. After our dogs turn 1, they proceed to get OFA testing of their eyes and heart. A specialist either looks at their eyes or heart to verify they have no health conditions that could be passed to their offspring. If we are lucky enough that our young golden passes, we will move forward to the next health testing stage. The next health test that we typically conduct once our young golden is 1. While they are sedated to have these x-rays we usually also have Penn Hip testing done. Also, per our vet the Penn Hip is a better test to know the overall health of the hips as they test the elasticity and movement rather then judging based on an image. Last health test we do is done at the age of 2 years old. As the dogs age their bones calcify, a dog with failing elbow or hips younger then 2 could very well change to passing once they turn 2. Under each dog there is a link from K9 data. Unfortunately K9 data will not allow preliminary testing information in the link which is the OFA elbow and hip test results if the dog is under 2 years of age when the test is conducted. However we do list the preliminary test results under each dog. Once we have the official results K9 data will be updated to reflect their latest test results. We are constantly conducting health tests and updating K9 data as well as the webpage. Lots of factors could play into why a dog could fail their OFA elbows or hip tests. It may not necessarily be genetic but instead could be from the environment that they are raised in. Limiting their jumping heights is extremely important. Simply slipping on ice can cause unforeseen affects to their overall development. It is also highly recommended for additional joint supplements as they grow, we prefer the use of NuVet supplements see link on website tab for further information on NuVet products. Lack of vitamin C in their food is another considered attribute to not having passing scores. All of these factors are highly overseen during the raising of our potential breeding dogs. Unfortunately, sometimes our dogs do not pass all of their tests. We sometimes keep them, but we also have found amazing homes for them. We are even more particular in their home placement as we know their personalities and what would be the best fit. They will be spayed prior or be contracted to be spayed soon after being placed in their new homes. We are very focused on ensuring we know our breeding stock through both their individual health and their genealogy testing. Our dogs and puppies get a lot of socializing. Daily they are engaged with our other dogs, our young sons, our friends, and other family members. They all get a ton of love and attention. This ensures they keep up on their house manners and it also makes it incredibly easier when pregnant moms deliver within our home. Our dogs are not kept outdoors like you might see with other breeders. We also have them go into large fenced in play areas where they play in large groups with each other. We do not show our dogs or conduct any competitions with them. When I am not raising my children, I am constantly spending time with my dogs or interacting with potential customers. My husband works many hours in his law enforcement career to dedicate any additional time in competitions, trials, or shows. Once he retires and the children are older, we may pursue that however it is not our current focus. Some of the lighter goldens that we have also known as English Creams do have championship titles in their bloodlines as does our darker red field goldens. Any of our puppies with proper training could and would be amazing for shows or hunting trials as its in their bloodline. About our Puppies: I usually make the determination of puppies after 30 days of a breeding. I have my own ultrasound machine and can get a good determination of how many puppies are present. It does not give me an exact count. Only way to really narrow down the number of puppies is by an x-ray, around the day mark. I do not conduct my own x-rays and that would require a visit to the animal hospital. To reduce stress on mom and the puppies we do not do x-rays. I get a final count upon delivery keeping mom where she is most comfortable. Delivery of puppies take place in my home around the days after being bred, unless an emergency C-section requires otherwise. Typically, all our puppies are delivered naturally. Someone is always with the mother for the entire delivery. It is very strenuous but has the best outcome for both mom and pups. When all the puppies are born, we will post pictures on the Facebook page. We will then reach out to anyone on our waiting list. If by chance, there are any extra puppies we will make an announcement on Facebook after exhausting our wait list. Sometimes people back out and puppies do come up available at various times. During the initial few days into the few weeks mom and puppies are spending a lot of quality time together. We are keeping a close attention that everyone is gaining weight and seem to be progressing. The pups are handled daily by us. After about 2 weeks eyes and ears will begin to open. The fourth week they are starting to find their legs and moving around exploring. The fifth week if all are doing well, I begin the weaning process where mom is nursing less and less as I introduce kibble to their diet. We begin the deworming process and also begin the first vaccine. We do not travel with the puppies to an animal hospital. I feel it could be stressful for the puppies and creates an opportunity for the puppies to be exposed to other pet sicknesses. I have a traveling vet come and conduct full physicals on all of the puppies. You will receive a copy of her report in the puppy folder upon pickup date. We have outside play areas and toys for them to interact with. They will also be played with by children and handled by adults. They will have several toys to interact with. Obstacles will be in there play pens to learn jumping and crawling. Process Purchasing a Puppy: If you decide that you would like to move forward with getting a puppy, we recommend that you first look at the females and the males that we have. Sometimes the males could change if multiple females come into heat at the same time. We also have an additional tab where you can view planned future breeding so you can have a better idea of potential pairings. Next, I would like to have a phone interview so we can find out more about yourself and the home that a puppy of mine would be going to. In our discussion I would like to know which mother you were leaning towards and whether you prefer a male or female puppy. I can go over all additional questions that you may have including total costs. If both parties are fully satisfied, I will move forward with sending you over the contract. I sell all my puppies with limited AKC registration. Under certain circumstances I will offer full AKC registration for an additional charge. If you are wondering what the difference is between limited and full registration. Limited registration means you can never breed a puppy from me and it will be expected upon proper age that the dog is spayed. Full registration is only for breeders that want to purchase a puppy with intentions of breeding. I am not against giving another breeder full registration however it must be discussed prior, and all requirements must be met that I have. I do require the final payment to be in cash upon pickup of the puppy, so there no issues of bounced checks or issues with sending monies from one bank institution to another. No exceptions. I typically only reserve the first 3 females and the first 3 males as there are no guarantees of how many puppies are born. I go in order of when I am contacted. For an example if you contacted me in May for a female, and John Doe contacted me in January for a female from the same mother then John Doe will get first pick and you would get second pick. It seems to be the fairest method I have come across and will be moving forward with that process unless I discover a better way. I also reserve the right to have first pick so I can sustain my future breeding line as it dictates. I do not allow visitation to the puppies until they are ready for pickup. It also increases the chances for the puppies to get sick and potentially all die from a condition call parvo, as they are not full vaccinated. I have scheduled meetings with individuals that would like to meet me and the adult dogs fully vaccinated prior to making a commitment but not when I have current litters. I would recommend if you want to see the puppies earlier to log into Facebook and follow my page on there. I conduct live videos where you can see all the puppies. After a few weeks old we begin to collar them so you can tell them apart better. I do not place or pick certain pups for certain homes. Some people may not like that due to a puppies drive or behavior. I personally feel training is key to your dogs behavior. You have to spend time with this puppy and be consistent. Goldens just want to please you, but they will test you to learn their place in the household. If you lack experience in training dogs, I do recommend you work with a trainer and read literature so you can achieve the most success with your puppy. You will get an hour to choose your puppy. Please be mindful as I will have others scheduled after your hour of time is completed. I will need some of that time to go over paperwork that is required through the state to complete. I have no problems if you want to bring a trainer or conduct your own tests to see if one puppy might be a better fit based on their opinion. Please be respectful of my property and do not go adventuring around wherever you may like without me being present. Once you pick your puppy and all paperwork has been completed, you will be provided with vet records of your puppy and the vaccines that were previously given. At this time, I do not microchip any puppies. I personally feel the best time to microchip a puppy is when they are sedated which I recommend during the spay. We do require that you schedule an appointment with your vet within 14 days of the pickup date. You may want to schedule this prior to arrival as animal hospitals have been extremely busy. We will have gift bag for you. There will be some surprises in there for your pup, including enough puppy food for the next several days so you can either remain on it or gradually change the food to one of your liking. We highly recommend slowly changing the food over time if you decide to change it as they have extremely sensitive stomachs at this age. The only thing he knew was his name. We were new parents and all we knew was that we liked to hunt, and Rusty was a heckuva duck dog. Long story short, we purchased a mate for him from Torch Flinn in , Tigathoes Morning Mist, as we couldn't bear the thought of life without a big red golden. Over the years thoughtful outcrosses with exceptional Canadian field studs enabled genetically safe line breedings with emphasis on the strengths and talents of the dogs we knew intimately. Not just names on a pedigree, we know health and accomplishment statistics on siblings, offspring, and offspring of siblings. Adirondac Goldens excel in so many venues because the traits a Master Hunter needs are the same that every competitor must have - - - work ethic, courage, perseverance, athleticism, and problem solving skills. The puppies just need to go home with the right owner, and we like to think that "pick of the litter" goes home with every buyer. A dog craves purpose. Dogs want to expend energy, solve problems, engage with others and embark on interesting adventures. Dogs are eager to comfort or protect; to herd or to hunt. A dog's purpose is it's passion. Preference is given to working homes.

Look no further! Our stock photo collection features a wide range of images that are perfect for any project, from print ads to web design. Our collection includes a variety of American bulldog images, including photos of puppies, adult dogs, and even show dogs. We also have images of bulldogs in different poses and settings, such as running, playing, and sleeping. Our photos are high resolution and can be downloaded in both small and large sizes, making them perfect for both web and print projects. Our American bulldog images are perfect for a variety of projects, including: Print ads and brochures Web design and social media graphics Product packaging and labeling In short, anywhere you need a high-quality bulldog image, we have you covered! How to Choose the Right Image for Your Project Choosing the right image for your project can be a daunting task, but with our collection of American bulldog images, it's easier than ever. Here are some tips to help you choose the right image: Consider the tone of your project: Do you want a playful and cute bulldog image, or a more serious and regal one? Think about your audience: Will your audience respond better to a photo of a puppy, or a more mature dog? Consider the context: Where will the image be used? A web design project might require a different type of image than a print ad. Take into account the image's resolution: High-resolution images are best for print projects, while lower resolution images work well for web design. Get Started with Our American Bulldog Images Today Our collection of American bulldog images is perfect for anyone looking for high-quality photos of these adorable dogs. Whether you're a designer looking for the perfect image for your latest project, or a breeder looking to showcase your puppies, we have something for everyone. So why wait? Browse our collection today and find the perfect image for your project! He has a great disposition and loves his exercise. He is very active which is why he is nice and calm around us. He loves to play with his spring pole and has been a pleasure to train. Krajewski DA KillDozer aka Dozer relaxing—he walks great on a leash, sit, lay, roll over, and stay at 12 weeks old. He is the first dog I have ever had, and I am definitely impressed with his progress. I am waiting till he gets a little older, but I think he has a great temperament, and hopefully he will be able to become a therapy dog. I think that would not only be fun for him, but would also paint a very positive picture of this breed and the things they can accomplish. He has a very laid-back personality. Very friendly with other dogs. Loves people, loves the water. Just started obedience training. Before any formal training he easily learned the basics sit, stay, lie down ,shake, etc. Although he is very large, he is a very good inside dog. In the six months that I have had him, he only has had one accident in the house. He is CKC registered. He was also crate trained in a matter of days. He is exercised daily. Extremely loyal to me and loving with anyone he meets. His mostly brindle markings I have been told and researched to be on the rare side. She thinks she is a lap dog. I've never been a big "dog person" until we got her. I never imagined myself loving a dog as much as I love her; I look at her as if she was my own child.Everyone tells me she is the best-looking dog they have ever seen, and I agree! This is what he thinks he was put on this earth to do. His registered name is "The Game's Tankus Maximus. He weighs pounds and lives with a female mixed breed that is 45 pounds lighter than he is. She is the alpha dog. I guess he just doesn't know he is bigger than she is. He was 18 months old when this picture was taken. I took this picture of him when we took him out on the Puget Sound on a boat. We didn't expect him to get so excited about the water; he leaned very far over the edge of the boat, so to be safe we put a flotation device on him since he is not a very strong swimmer. He is a very sweet and well-behaved dog, although he can get overly excited in some situations. He has a lot of energy. Hanah the white American Bulldog at 5 years old weighing pounds.

All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. We may receive commissions from purchases made via our links. As a dedicated Labrador parent, one of your primary responsibilities is ensuring your pup remains healthy and achieves all growth milestones based on his age. However, some of the most overwhelming factors to crack through are size and weight. So, is your Lab puppy too small for his age? Your Lab puppy might be too small if it weighs less than 12 lbs 5. Lab puppies generally weigh about 2 lbs 1 kg with every week of growth. If your puppy weighs a lot less than that, he may be too small for his age. If you're worried that your pup might be too small for his age, you're in the right place. In this article, I'll outline Lab puppies' size and weight facts to help you understand where your young canine friend stands. Keep reading! In this article How Much a Lab Puppy Should Weigh This is one of the most common concerns and one of the most challenging to address directly. This is because a puppy's weight and size may differ based on his gender, genetic composition, or underlying conditions. However, there's a trick that may help you determine your pup's weight range. In most cases, average puppies add about 2 lbs 1 kg with every week of growth. And just like the weight, Lab puppies have different sizes. You may notice a huge size variance in a litter of Lab puppies. Some may appear too big or too small for their age. Below are 3 factors that can affect a Lab puppy's size and weight. Genetic May Affect Size A canine's size is partially genetic. Therefore, a Lab puppy born of small parents may inherit the genes and appear smaller for his age. However, this isn't always the case because some small-parents puppies sometimes grow into huge dogs. So, it's possible to note a considerable size variance on puppies from the same litter. Diet Greatly Influences Weight A puppy's diet also has a lot to do with his size and weight. Poorly fed puppies may fail to grow properly. Thus they may be low in weight and small in size. When feeding puppies, it isn't always about the amount of food the pup consumes but rather the nutritional value. So, to be on the safe side, it's advisable to consult your vet on the right foods for your pup based on his age. Health Problems Can Inhibit Growth Puppies that have been ill or have underlying conditions may portray slow growth. Their size and weight may be small compared to healthy pups within the same age limit. However, you shouldn't worry about this because such puppies often catch up later after recovery. Note that this chart only gives a weight limit, and it doesn't mean your puppy should weigh precisely that. It's only meant to help you protect your pup's weight and easily point out when he's seriously under or overweight. Between 8 weeks and 10 months, your puppy has a ton of growing to do, and they change drastically from month to month. Each stage of growth requires specific attention, exercise, and diet, so there is much to learn and pay attention to these different growth stages. There may be behavioral challenges while your pup adjusts to their new life without their mother and siblings. This period of adjustment can sometimes lead to fearful and timid behavior, and your puppy will need as much attention and affection as possible. They should be eating 3—4 small meals a day at this stage. You can begin basic command, leash, and potty training at this point too. Although the schedule is not complete this is a critical period to begin socialization and making sure they are calm and friendly with other dogs, just make sure they are also vaccinated. We highly recommend making training a part of their daily activities at this age. Biting can be an issue at this stage too, as they will begin teething, and they will start exploring and chewing whatever they can find. Chew toys and consistent command reinforcement are both vital for avoiding this behavior. The good news is that your puppy will grow out of this habit at around 6 months old. Your lab should also be house-trained by this point, but there may still be the occasional accident. Remember to be gentle but firm when this happens, and your pooch will likely move through it swiftly. They will begin losing their baby teeth at this point, and biting and chewing may reach its peak. Firm but gentle commands, chew toys, and loads of patience are essential at this stage. Your puppy will be testing the limits and may start showing dominance, ignoring known commands, and asserting more independence. You can now drop their meals down to two meals per day, but be sure that they are not eating too quickly. Your puppy will start to closely resemble an adult at 6 months, but remember that mentally, they are still puppies and will need loads of direction and training. Females may enter their first heat at 6—7 months, so keep a careful watch for stray males. They will still display puppy tendencies and traits and have a ton of excitable energy, but they should be fairly obedient and well-trained by this stage. Be sure to give your Labrador plenty of exercise at this stage to help keep them from misbehavior. They will have reached their full height by now but may still gain weight and muscle mass in the coming months. Unless you intend on breeding, you should consider neutering and spaying your puppy to avoid wandering and unwanted pregnancies. While some breeders recommend that you wait until a year old, this is a perfectly suitable time to perform the procedure. They may still gain weight and muscle mass but much slower than during the past few months. They will still display puppy characteristics and even test boundaries, but all in all, they should be obedient and well-trained by now. They will have a ton of energy and still enjoy playtimes and loads of exercise. While they are at their full height at this age, some Labs may appear lanky and still have weight to fill out in the coming months. When Do Labradors Stop Growing? All dogs are unique, and the question of when they stop growing is largely dependent on the individual. Anecdotally, your Lab should have reached their full weight by 18 months and full height by 9—12 months. Most breeders agree that your Lab will stop growing at some point during their second year. Even so, any weight gain during their second year will be minimal, and they will have done the majority of their growth by their first birthday. Mentally, they are out of the puppyhood phase of testing boundaries and disobedience by their first year— if correctly trained. If you have been consistent in training thus far, your Lab should be friendly, obedient, and well-behaved from their first birthday and into adulthood. In males, neutering can sometimes result in a calmer, more relaxed dog, and this, in turn, will slow down his need for exercise and may result in weight gain. A study in showed that dogs neutered before 37 weeks may gain more weight, while dogs that had the procedure after 37 weeks had a slower growth trajectory. The difference was minimal, though, and there is no reason to assume that these procedures have much of an effect on growth rates in dogs. Dangers of Growing Too Quickly or Stunted Growth While some puppies may grow quicker or slower than the agreed-upon average, this is usually nothing to be concerned about due to the individual and unique nature of dogs. However, if your pooch is gaining weight rapidly or not gaining enough, there may be deeper issues to look into. If your dog is from working or hunting stock, they may be smaller than average Labs and are usually lighter for work in the field. Size may also be genetic, and if your Lab comes from small parents, they will be smaller than average. The same may be true of heavier-than-average Labs—if their parents are large, they will likely be similar in size. However, larger-than-average weights may also be due to overfeeding or a lack of exercise , or a combination of both, so be sure to keep their exercise and feeding habits consistent. Image Credit: rebeccaashworth, Shutterstock Growth Distinctions of Different Labradors Although they are designated under the same breed, there are two different types of common Labradors: English and American. English Labradors tend to be stockier and more muscular than their American counterparts and have a thick, waterproof coat , while American Labs have a slender build with a slightly finer coat. English Labs are slightly shorter, topping out at around 22 inches, but their stocky and muscular build often makes them heavier than American Labs. In fact, English Labs have been known to weigh up to 20 pounds more than American Labs without being considered overweight. American Labs are known to be slightly more active and energetic than English Labs, while English Labs tend to be less excitable and more laid back. English Labs are by no means lazy, though, and they still have plenty of energy and stamina to go around. Conclusion: Monthly Labrador Growth Pictures Hopefully, this guide has helped you understand the growth rate of your Labrador puppy and given you a better idea of what to expect during the different stages. See also:. Labrador puppy weight. It can be hard to know what the right weight is for your specific pup. An American Lab is likely to weigh less than an English Lab in general, but not always! How much do Labs weigh in general? Male Labradors weigh between 60lbs and 80lbs, while females weigh in at between 55lbs and 75lbs. But many healthy Labradors fall outside these averages. As you can see, there is quite a range! Labrador Puppy Weight Lots of our readers want to know how much should my Labrador weigh at this age or that age. Labrador puppies are growing fast, and their weight is constantly changing. We used the data from our forum to create the Lab weight chart below. If you want a rough idea of how much your pup should weigh at different stages of their young life, just compare them to this chart and see how they match up. But remember, average Labrador weight is not totally straight forward… Average Labrador Weight Labradors come in a wide variety of sizes. So average Labrador Retriever weight figures can be misleading. As a very rough guide an adult female Labrador might weigh between 55 and 70lbs. An adult male Lab will weigh 65 — 80lbs. Female Lab weight will on average be lower than male Lab weight, but as you can see there is a considerable cross over. But Labradors also come in a couple of different types, and his type will have an impact upon his ideal Labrador weight. English Labs bred from show lines are likely to be at the upper end of the scale. You can expect English Lab weight to be around 60 — 70 lbs for a female and 70 — 80 lbs for a male. Some of our chunkier, show bred Labs can be a good twenty pounds or more heavier than their field bred cousins, without necessarily being overweight. Whereas the American Lab who is field bred is likely to be at the lower end of average. Volume for volume, muscle weighs more. So it is worth bearing in mind, that a very fit dog will have more muscle and may weigh more than an unfit dog of similar dimensions. Black Lab Weight In theory there should be no difference in weight between Labradors of different colors. Black Labrador weight for an English black Lab will probably be at the higher end of the range, for an American black Lab it will likely be lower. Black Labs are frequently found in both these categories, but some Lab colors differ. For example the chocolates. Chocolate Lab Weight Chocolate Labs are more likely to be show bred than field bred. English Labs weigh more than American Labs in general, and may therefore be at the higher end of average when it comes to weight. This is because yellow Labs are commonly found in both categories. White Labs are more likely to be English Labs, and will therefore probably be at the heavier end of the scale. Fox red Labs are normally American Labs, and will often be thinner in build and therefore lighter in weight. The way to effectively judge whether your Lab is at an ideal weight is not through the scales. It is by feel and appearance. You should not be able to see ribs, but if you press firmly along his sides you should just be able to feel your fingers bumping along them. But in most cases it really is not necessary to weigh your puppy every day, or even every week! Any more than you would weigh your three year old child on a daily or even weekly basis. There are however, some exceptions. Very thin puppies Occasionally we have people post up about puppies that are desperately underweight and clearly failing to thrive. Most of these comments come from people that have purchased puppies that are not ready to leave their mothers, and should not have been sold by the breeder. Some of these puppies are as young as three weeks old. If you have inadvertently been sucked into this horrible trade in underage puppies, do contact a vet for help with feeding your puppy, as a matter of urgency. If you are concerned that your puppy might be seriously underweight, again, your vet is the first port of call. As a very rough guide, many Labrador puppies will weigh around a kilo for every week of their lives. So you would expect a ten week puppy to weigh something in the region of ten kilos or around twenty-two pounds. A twenty percent variation around this would be fairly normal. If your puppy falls outside this variation he may still be perfectly healthy, but if you are inexperienced, a check with the vet is a good way to put your mind at rest. Should I Weigh My Dog? You may need to weigh your dog if he needs medical treatment. Determining the appropriate dose of some drugs requires that we know the exact weight of the patient. But in this case your veterinarian will probably do it for you at their check-ups and assessments. The main reasons to weigh a dog are loss or gain. Trying to put weight on a very thin puppy? You may want to check your progress with regular weigh-ins for a while to make sure they are sufficiently gaining weight. Trying to help your adult Labrador weight decrease? Checking their weight each week will help you to know that you are succeeding, along with visual checks. How to weigh a dog If you need to weigh a puppy, and he is small enough to hold in your arms, you can do this at home. Just weigh yourself on the bathroom scales without him, then weigh yourself again whilst holding the dog, and subtract the first weight from the second. This is accurate enough for most purposes. Larger dogs will need to be weighed on purpose built scales. Most vet surgeries have one in the waiting room, and some pet stores have them too. Really tiny dogs can be weighed accurately on a good sized set of kitchen scales. For once, this is a situation where appearances really do count. Try to get into the habit of looking at your dog objectively and of avoiding comparing with other dogs, many of whom will be overweight. You may find that some other dog owners will tell you your nice slim Labrador is actually too thin. This happens a lot, largely because people are simply getting used to so many dogs being overweight, including some of those receiving the highest accolades in our show rings. Again, if you are worried, check with your vet, but the chances are if someone is telling you this that actually your dog is healthy, and it is really their dog who is overweight. The Lab puppy weight chart shows you the average weight for male and female Labs every month from 2 months old, up until 12 months if you have a puppy Lab, check out our New Puppy Checklist to learn more about what to bring home for your first 24 hours and beyond. Doing so helps you and your veterinarian keep your puppy healthy. Are There Different Sizes of Labradors? Among the retriever breeds, the Labrador is one of the largest, where an adult male can top the scales at 80 pounds. Labrador Retrievers may differ in size due to individual variation and outside influences, such as the amount or type of food they eat, the amount or frequency of exercise they get, or underlying health conditions that may affect appetite or growth. But overall, a retriever should ideally hit a 5 out of 9 on the body condition score, regardless of the actual weight number on a scale. A healthy size Labrador has an evident abdominal tuck and observable waist, viewed from both the side and top of the dog. The AKC considers Lab puppies to be in adulthood when they reach 12 to 18 months of age, though there are outliers — those who grow faster or slower, reaching maturity either before 1 year old or not until 2 years old. Like other large dog breeds, Labs go through multiple stages of puppyhood until they reach adulthood. The average height for Labrador puppies is largely unknown due to insufficient data, but the average adult Labrador Retriever gets to be about inches tall at the shoulder. These numbers are contingent on the puppy receiving top-notch care, good nutrition, and appropriate levels of exercise. Different factors, such as health, breeding practices, and nutrition, may alter these estimated numbers. The below Labrador weight calculator can help you determine approximately how big your Labrador will be. But there are dogs who will fall outside of these parameters. The Waltham Petcare Science Institute offers puppy growth charts for veterinarians to use with their clients. You can also learn more about the ideal size and weight at different ages for different breeds with our Goldendoodle growth chart , a Golden Retriever size chart , Great Dane growth chart , or Chihuahua size chart. For that advice, consult your veterinarian. Possible Common Thus, a black or yellow Labrador can belong to either breed. It is more likely for chocolate or white Labrador to belong to the English Labrador breed, and it is more likely for a fox red Labrador to belong to the American breed. Singe English Labradors frequently weigh more than American Labradors; these colors may give insight into heritage lines and reasons for differentiating weights. Physical Condition Even though these figures are universal amongst Labradors, it can be challenging to decide whether your Labrador is healthy solely based on weight. Fitness and physical capacities will have a considerable influence on whether or not their weight is healthy. Many Labradors may be over or under the healthy weight range, but they may be fit and active. This means they may weigh less due to being lean and toned without much body fat, or they may weigh more due to increased muscle mass. To assess the health of your Labrador , their weight will need to be compared with their fitness levels as well. Labrador Gender Weight Differences Generally speaking, male Labradors weigh more than female Labradors since males grow faster and typically grow larger than females would. While Labrador puppies may have similar figures on the scale at very young ages, their average weight may begin to diverge as they draw closer to the cusp of adulthood. Average Labrador Puppy Weight Irrespective of the breed and gender, ensuring a healthy weight as your Lab ages will rely on observation and care from a very young age. Weight is typically very similar during this time irrespective of differentiation, affecting their average healthy weight ranges into adulthood. They should be gaining approximately 2lbs per week up until they are 6 months old. Once Labrador puppies reach adolescence, inherent differentiations will begin to affect their average weight, after which owners will need to assess their weight maintenance according to their breed and gender. However, gender plays a prominent role in determining healthy weight in maturing Labrador puppies, and males typically weigh more and grow faster than females. Owners will need to ensure that their weight is maintained through exercise and adequate dietary compositions. Nutrition, physical activity, and a balanced diet will all play a role in supporting a healthy weight as they grow into full adult Labradors. How much should a Purebred Lab weigh? Purebred Labradors still experience a diverse range concerning their weight. However, numerous purebred Labrador owners have come together and created an average healthy weight range from adolescence to adulthood, based on experience with their fit and healthy purebred Labradors whether male or female. Labrador Age months.

Call Morgan at for specific pup identification if you are leaning towards placing an early deposit. Please check back, we update our website daily! Please see our Deposit Page and our Transportation Page for information on getting your puppy. We love the English bulldog temperament, physique and expression, I just personally like it to be about lbs. We find the smaller sizes are more buoyant and playful and, though still very heat sensitive, are better able to cope with life in general. Downsizing an AKC breed takes time. Our girls all come from long lines of lb. We not trying for 20 pounders…our goal is to have healthy, beautiful babies that consistently mature at lbs. If you see a puppy that tugs on your heartstrings please call, or go to our deposit page for more information. In the last few years it has become clear that most people would prefer their puppy to be transported using our White Glove transport or Nanny Flight transport. Today, we have requests for our Puppies from all over the country. Because of this, the majority those requesting a Sugarplum Bulldog Puppy have also requested transport to their area of the country; those in Florida, for example, cannot easily make the drive to RI. As such, the majority of our Puppies have shifted to a transport model; this gets them closer to their new forever home. Because of this, we have come to the decision, that for the well being of our Puppies and for the benefit of our new Sugarplum Bulldog owners, we have developed a transport model for our pups using our Puppy-Mobile with direct transport to the pups new Forever Home! Our Mid-Western breeding home is co-owned by Sugarplum Bulldogs, and our partner. I realize that not having a chance to play with the Pups is disappointing to some, but please understand that our team are dedicated to the highest level of care for our little Pups. We truly feel that this new model is in the best interested of our Puppies and their new homes. Please feel free to ask me any questions…. Upload Image.They were created during the s by reproducers who were hoping to make a canine like the English Bulldog, however in a more modest , better bundle. A scaled down Bulldog and a toy bulldog are frequently mistaken for the smaller than normal English Bulldog. For the wellbeing of correlation: Miniature English Bulldog Physical Characteristics The small scale English Bulldog has a typical load of 15 to 30 pounds and can contain some Pug or Boston Terrier in its genealogy, contingent upon the raiser. The English Bulldog can arrive at up to 16 inches tall at the shoulder. The smaller than expected Bulldog is a crossbreed of an English Bulldog blended in with a Pug, and they burden normal 30 to 40 pounds. Toy Bulldog The toy bulldog was reared in Britain and does not exist anymore. These canines were blends of French and English Bulldogs and weighed around 20 pounds. They are between 13 to 14 inches tall at the shoulder, with guys being bigger than females. They have a brachycephalic face- meaning they have a wide, short skull — and a low-thrown, solid body. It comes in mottle, brown, grovel, red, white, or fixed. They require week after week brushing to keep their skin solid and to eliminate hair from shedding. They additionally need the folds of their skin cleaned consistently to hold skin conditions back from creating. Alongside their jacket and skin needs, be ready to manage a great deal of slobber. They are friendly canines who really do well with kids and love to nestle. They can likewise show a few defensive propensities around their home and family, and are faithful to their families. They can likewise be troublesome for certain different canines because of their bulldog legacy. Because of the medical conditions and unscrupulous rearing practices that flourish with this variety, research your reproducer cautiously prior to getting one of their canines. On the off chance that you choose to safeguard a canine, you can attempt the Bulldog Club of America, which might have postings of these more modest renditions of their variety, as well as the Petfinder and Embrace a-Pet sites. Smaller than expected miniature english bulldogs are most certainly charming and well disposed, however they accompany a great deal of medical conditions. It might likewise be more enthusiastically to track down a very much reproduced canine. Know there are many worries in the canine extravagant about reproducing these canines with such poor actual wellbeing possibilities.

Please be sure to provide many chew toys to help with this transitional period. Cow hooves can be found at many pet stores and are recommended. Stay away from pig ears and cheap rawhide, and "greenies," as these can cause severe diarrhea, bloat, and are a choking hazard. For instance, keep an eye out for diarrhea if you change your pup's food. If your bulldog develops diarrhea then stop all food for 12 hours. If it persists for more than 24 hours, contact your veterinarian immediately to prevent dehydration. Puppies can dehydrate very rapidly so you need to take it seriously when diarrhea occurs. Dogs can pick up some unwanted guests: ticks, fleas, mites, lice, and intestinal worms. Your dog can be the perfect host for these pests if regular treatment for these nasty pests is not given. Your veterinarian is the best source of knowledge for the local bugs that bug the local dog population and how to prevent these pests. Heartworm is a widespread disease present spread by mosquitoes throughout most of the United States. There is a treatment for heartworm, but it is expensive and takes a toll physically on the dog and can take months to combat. This is especially important for dogs that spend a lot of time outside, that live on farms, or that hunt, as they are at increased risk of contracting this tick-borne disease. Puppies will generally have a first veterinary visit at the age of six weeks by the person who has the mother dog. The veterinarian will examine the puppies to make sure there are no hernias, heart, lung, or eye or ear problems in any of the pups. At 9 weeks, and then again at 12 weeks, the de-wormer and distemper vaccines will be repeated. Then these can be given once a year or on a schedule determined by you and your veterinarian. Lowell Ackerman. This vaccination is required by many communities. There can sometimes be severe penalties if your dog is not rabies vaccinated especially if the dog bites a person or another pet. As your dog ages, more frequent examinations will need to be given. Twice yearly examination will catch medical issues before they become big problems. Older dogs frequently suffer from arthritis and heart disease just like elderly humans. There are effective and safe treatments that can help your older dog live reasonably pain-free and pleasant golden years. It is important to spay females or neuter male your puppy. In addition to various health benefits for the dog decreased chances of certain tumors and infections , there is a big societal benefit in the decreased number of unwanted dogs. Microchipping is also encouraged in case your dog ever becomes lost. The inner ear part of the ear is normally white or darker colored, usually corresponding to the color of the dog's coat, so look for discoloring. The puppy's ears should also not smell nor have any discharge in the ear or on the flap. The ear should be free of debris, dirt, or parasites, like ticks or mites. Any of the following are abnormal: [9] X Trustworthy Source American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty Go to source Scratching or pawing the ear. Shaking the head excessively. If in doubt, or if you suspect an ear infection, have your veterinarian look in the ear using an otoscope to examine the eardrum. Never stick a q-tip or similar type of product into the ear canal. You will not be able to see the entire ear canal and should not try to put anything down there. Never use human toothpaste on a dog; only use dental toothpaste made for dogs. The fluoride in human toothpaste is poisonous to dogs and can cause serious health problems. Place a little puppy toothpaste on your fingertip and let your puppy lick it off. The next day put it on your finger and rub it along the outer gums. Then try to put a little on a dog toothbrush, let the puppy lick it then run the toothbrush along the outer edges of the teeth and gums. Only the outer part against the cheeks needs to be brushed. Even with regular tooth brushing, dogs may need dental cleanings once in a while. Plaque and bacteria can build up under the gum line causing problems there or in the roots of the teeth. Just like with their human owners, regular mouth examinations by their doggy dentist should be done once a year. The English Bulldog — Quite a Chap! The English Bulldog can be expected to have certain traits: Affectionate, easygoing, and lovable Quiet—not much of a barker Good with kids and other pets An excellent guard dog, courageous and dependable Adaptable to a wide variety of living conditions Outgoing and friendly personality You may also these characteristics in your bully buddy: Can be gassy and drool a lot Makes a lot of snorting, snuffling, and wheezing noises, and she may snore Can become overweight easily if not exercised regularly Can be rambunctious and rowdy, especially as a puppy Sensitive, matures slowly Can be possessive of toys and food, tending to show dominance She is an intelligent and dependable companion that forms close human bonds. With early socialization and consistent leadership , she is a social and cheerful addition to any family. The modern Bulldog, with a heavy, thickset, low body and massive head, originated in England after the elimination of bull-baiting in .The Old English Bulldog was crossed with the Pug to create a more docile and affectionate family pet. The Bulldog retained its protective and fearless nature, but aggressive and ferocious tendencies were removed from the breed. Bulldogs serve as popular mascots, representing strength in the face of adversity for the US Marine Corps and more than 30 US Universities. Bulldogs are famous for their gentle nature, fondness of children, and clownish antics. The Bulldog is a generally healthy breed with an average lifespan of years. That is why we have summarized the health concerns we will be discussing with you over the life of your Bulldog. By knowing about health concerns specific to Bulldogs, we can tailor a preventive health plan to watch for and hopefully prevent some predictable risks. That does not mean your dog will have these problems; it just means that she is more at risk than other dogs. We will describe the most common issues seen in Bulldogs to give you an idea of what may come up in her future. This guide contains general health information important to all canines as well as the most important genetic predispositions for Bulldogs. At the end of the article, we have also included a description of what you can do at home to keep your English Bulldog looking and feeling her best. And unfortunately, your Bulldog is more likely than other dogs to have problems with her teeth. It starts with tartar build-up on the teeth and progresses to infection of the gums and roots of the teeth. Infections Bulldogs are susceptible to bacterial and viral infections — the same ones that all dogs can get — such as parvo, rabies, and distemper. Many of these infections are preventable through vaccination , which we will recommend based on the diseases we see in our area, her age, and other factors. Obesity Obesity can be a significant health problem in Bulldogs. It is a serious disease that may cause or worsen joint problems, metabolic and digestive disorders, back pain and heart disease. Instead, give her a hug, brush her fur or teeth, play a game with her, or perhaps take her for a walk. Everything from fleas and ticks to ear mites can infest her skin and ears. Hookworms, roundworms, heartworms , and whipworms can get into her system in a number of ways: drinking unclean water, walking on contaminated soil, or being bitten by an infected mosquito. Some of these parasites can be transmitted to you or a family member and are a serious concern for everyone. Spay or Neuter One of the best things you can do for your Bulldog is to have her spayed neutered for males. In females, this means we surgically remove the ovaries and usually the uterus, and in males, it means we surgically remove the testicles. Spaying or neutering decreases the likelihood of certain types of cancers and eliminates the possibility of your pet becoming pregnant or fathering unwanted puppies. Performing this surgery also gives us a chance, while your pet is under anesthesia, to identify and address some of the diseases your dog is likely to develop. For example, if your pet needs hip X-rays or a puppy tooth extracted, this would be a good time. This is convenient for you and easy for your friend. Routine blood testing prior to surgery also helps us to identify and take precautions for common problems that increase anesthetic or surgical risk. Genetic Predispositions for Bulldogs Bone and Joint Problems A number of different musculoskeletal problems have been reported in Bulldogs. While it may seem overwhelming, each condition can be diagnosed and treated to prevent undue pain and suffering. Both hips and elbows are at risk for dysplasia, an inherited disease that causes the joints to develop improperly and results in arthritis. You may notice that he begins to show lameness in his legs or has difficulty getting up from lying down. We can treat the arthritis—the sooner the better—to minimize discomfort and pain. Surgery is sometimes a good option in severe and life-limiting cases. Keep in mind that overweight dogs may develop arthritis years earlier than those of normal weight, causing undue pain and suffering! When Bulldog puppies are allowed to grow too quickly, the cartilage in their joints may not attach to the bone properly. This problem is known as osteochondritis dissecans or OCD. If this occurs, surgery may be required to fix the problem. Feed a large-breed puppy diet rather than an adult or a regular puppy diet. Weigh your puppy every three to four weeks. The cranial cruciate ligament is one of the four tough bands of tissue that hold each knee together. A torn cranial cruciate ligament is a common injury in active dogs, which includes your English Bulldog. Usually surgical correction is done to stabilize the knee and help prevent crippling arthritis. Physical therapy and multimodal pain management are necessary to get the best outcome. Keeping him at the right weight, feeding a high-quality diet, and avoiding too much twisting of the knees like playing Frisbee are key in avoiding this painful injury. Spinal Deformities Bulldogs are more likely than other canines to be born with spinal deformities a condition called hemivertebrae , which may lead to spinal cord damage, instability, or disability. Unfortunately, Bulldogs can inherit or develop a number of different eye conditions, some of which may cause blindness if not treated right away, and most of which can be extremely painful! We will evaluate his eyes at every examination to look for any signs of concern. Distichiasis is a condition caused by extra hairs that grow inside of the eyelid and rub on the surface of the eye. This is one of the most commonly inherited diseases in dogs, and your Bulldog is more likely than other dogs to develop this painful condition. If untreated, these abnormal hairs can cause corneal ulcers and chronic eye pain. Several treatment options are available, and the prognosis is good once the hairs have been permanently removed. Entropion is a condition where the eyelid rolls inward, causing the eyelashes to rub against the cornea surface of the eyeball. This is an extremely irritating and painful condition that can ultimately lead to blindness. It can happen in any dog breed; however, your Bulldog is especially at risk for this heritable disorder. Surgical correction is usually successful if performed early. Dry eye, also known as keratoconjunctivitis sicca or KCS, is common in Bulldogs. The tear glands no longer produce enough tears to keep the eye moist, which results in sore, itchy eyes and infections. Symptoms include a thick discharge, squinting, pawing at the eye, or a dull, dry appearance of the eye. This is a painful condition; please call us immediately if you notice any of these signs. Dogs have a third eyelid that contains a gland that produces about one-third of the fluid that bathes the eye. If the gland is sore or swollen, it looks like a red blob in the corner of the eye. This condition is called cherry eye, and it can occur very suddenly in one or both eyes. If this happens to him, we may treat it with ointment first, but surgery is often the best option. Bladder or Kidney Stones There are a few different types of stones that can form in the kidney or in the bladder, and Bulldogs are more likely to develop them than other breeds. Call us immediately! Respiratory Distress Syndrome This disease, also known as brachycephalic syndrome, affects dogs with a short nose, like your Bulldog. As a consequence, the soft palate the soft part at the back of the roof of the mouth , is too long and hangs down into the airway. The nostrils are often too small, and sometimes the trachea, or windpipe, is narrow and undersized. All of these things lead to a narrow and obstructed airway. Many of these dogs can barely breathe! Watch for exercise intolerance, loud breathing, coughing, bluish gums, or fainting. With his short nose, he is also more likely to develop other problems, such as flatulence from excessive air intake, pneumonia from aspirating food, or heat stroke. In severe cases, surgical correction may be recommended. Bleeding Disorders There are several types of inherited bleeding disorders that occur in dogs. They range in severity from very mild to very severe. Many times a pet seems normal until a serious injury occurs or surgery is performed, and then severe bleeding can result. Reproductive Difficulties Breeds with a large head and small pelvis are more prone to difficulties during the birthing process. Her pelvis is just too small to pass puppies and a C-section is often required for her health and that of her puppies. If you are interested in breeding your English Bulldog, speak with us first. We can help you make an informed decision based on body conformation of both sire and dam. Heart Disease Bulldogs are prone to multiple types of heart disease , which can occur both early and later in life. Veterinary dental care and weight control go a long way in preventing heart disease. Multiple Skin Problems Your English Bulldog is susceptible to different kinds of skin infections and diseases. One of them is caused by yeast Malassezia dermatitis. When it infects the ears, it causes itching, redness, and an accumulation of brown waxy discharge. On the skin, it leads to greasy, hairless areas, especially on the neck and throat, with a characteristic odor. Another common skin disease called seborrhea can cause dry, flaky skin or greasy, oily skin. These diseases make your pet itchy and uncomfortable. The earlier you call to have his skin problems checked, the less likely it is that you will end up caring for an itchy, bald, smelly dog. Mange Demodex is a microscopic mite that lives in the hair follicles of dogs. All dogs have them. In mild cases, pet owners may notice a few dry, irritated, hairless lesions. These often occur on the face or feet and may or may not be itchy. Secondary skin infections may occur. Prompt veterinary care is important to keep the disease from getting out of hand. Many pets seem to outgrow the problem, while others require lifelong management. Laryngeal Paralysis Older Bulldogs may develop this disease, in which the vocal cords become paralyzed and hang down into the airway. Watch for noisy breathing, especially when exercising or in hot, humid weather. In severe cases a pet can collapse and have difficulty breathing. Mild cases can be managed with changes at home and possibly medication. Cancer Cancer is a leading cause of death in older dogs. Your English Bulldog will likely live longer than many other breeds and therefore is more prone to get cancer in his golden years. Many cancers are cured by surgically removing them, and some types are treatable with chemotherapy. Early detection is critical! Dental Abnormalities Teeth abnormalities are often genetically induced and are relatively common in dogs, especially in purebred dogs like your Bulldog. An overbite or underbite is called a malocclusion, or a bad bite. Oligodontia is a condition where only a few teeth are present. Misaligned teeth can also occur and cause lots of problems, but can usually be corrected with braces or extractions. Yes, dogs can get braces! Taking Care of Your Bulldog at Home Much of what you can do to keep your dog happy and healthy is common sense, just like it is for people. Be sure to adhere to the schedule of examinations and vaccinations that we recommend for her. Another very important step in caring for your pet is signing up for pet health insurance. There will certainly be medical tests and procedures she will need throughout her life and pet health insurance will help you cover those costs. Routine Care, Diet, and Exercise Build her routine care into your schedule to help your English Bulldog live longer, stay healthier, and be happier during her lifetime. We cannot overemphasize the importance of a proper diet and exercise routine. Supervise your pet as you would a toddler. Keep doors closed, pick up after yourself, and block off rooms as necessary. She has low grooming needs. Brush her coat as needed, at least weekly. Clean her ears weekly, even as a puppy. Her deep wrinkles need to be cleaned and dried often to prevent infections. As an adult she can have a tendency to be lazy, so you must ensure she receives adequate exercise by providing a daily walk. She is sensitive to temperature extremes; avoid any prolonged exposure and be very alert to the signs of heat stress. Feed a high-quality diet appropriate for her age. What to Watch For Any abnormal symptom could be a sign of serious disease, or it could just be a minor or temporary problem. The important thing is to be able to tell when to seek veterinary help, and how urgently. Many diseases cause dogs to have a characteristic combination of symptoms, which together can be a clear signal that your Bulldog needs help. Feb 7, You are getting or already own an English Bulldog, so what are the things you should have on hand to keep your bulldog looking fabulous? Here is a list of some of our favorite items, and some things you should have on hand in case you need them. Healthy Treats. Giving your bulldog great dog food can be backfired if you give bad treats. No pupperonis or Bacon snacks! Find treats that are natural, preferably grain free. Fresh and Frozen Vegetables and Fruits. Give these as an alternative to store bought treats. Frozen Green Beans are my personal favorite, almost no calories and no sugar, just vitamins! Give them a spoon of yogurt on their food as an extra treat. Yogurt aids in healthy digestion. Note that if your bulldog is overweight, you may not want to do this with every meal. Canned Pumpkin. Canned Pumpkin is considered a 'super food'. This is NOT pumpkin pie mix, but all natural pumpkin. Keep this on hand if your bulldog is not moving the bowels correctly, it is full of fiber and will help get the pooping process going. You can even freeze it into ice cubes to give as a snack every other day. Do not over use canned pumpkin, or it will give your bully the runs! Salmon Oil or Coconut Oil. Add salmon oil or Coconut Oil to their meal at least once a day to keep their skin healthy and shiny! Adding a supplement such as NuVet Plus to their diet can help build the immune system and keep them healthy! Get a shampoo that will help aid the moisturizing of the skin, and help keep the coat soft and shiney. Oatmeal based is great if there is not a bunch of added perfumes and dyes. I personally use Tea Tree Oil Shampoo, and if you have a bully with allergies you can get a prescribed anti-fungal shampoo from your vet. The shampoo you use could make all the difference in the world when it comes to bulldog itchiness. Snout Soother, Aquaphor, or coconut oil. As your bulldog ages, so does their nose. In dryer climates, the nose can become crusty looking. In my experience, vaseline does not help. Snout soother is all natural and keeps bully noses moist, and you can also put it on dry paw pads as well. Baby Shampoo. Wash the top of the head and ears with baby shampoo. Just in case it gets into the eyes, it will not sting them. Cotton Balls. Put a cotton ball into each ear during bathing by stuffing it in so that the entire ear opening is covered. This will keep water from going into the bulldog ear canal, which is deep. If water gets into the ear canal, your bulldog will get an ear infection. Good Ear Cleaner. If your bully has nice healthy ears, you should clean them once a week, and especially after a bath. I recommend using vet prescribed ear cleaner, like Malacetic Otic, it has good cleaners and drying agents in it. Squeeze some into the ears and massage the ears to really get them clean. Wipe out excess moisture when finished and after bully gives you a shake of their head! Get a good pair of nail trimmers. Keeping bulldog nails trimmed is extremely important. The more often you trim the nails the better. If you let their nails grow long, the quick grows with them. Then when you try to trim them back, you will cut the quick. This is very painful for your bulldog! I use trimmers to cut off any access nail, then use a dremmel to file them down as close to the quick as possible. I love my dremmel and will never cut nails again without it! Bar Soap. Yep, keep a bar of soap handy, just in case you cut the quick during nail trimming time. Push the cut nail into the soap to clog the bleeder. It is kind of like putting a cork on a bottle. If you don't have soap handy, you can use flour or cornstarch. Acne pads like stridex but just the generic brand or Witch Hazel. This will help kill bacteria and dry out moist areas like wrinkles and creases. Diaper Rash Ointment. You can apply diaper rash ointment like Desitin in wrinkles to keep them from getting moist. Make sure the wrinkled area is completely dry prior to application, and keep away from the eyes. Do not allow them to lick it either. Every Vet will probably say they are qualified to care for your bulldog. This is not always the case! Find a vet who has many bulldog patients. Mix 1 part ACV with 3 parts water to ward off yeast. Epsom Salt. Soak your bully's paws in Epsom Salt if they develop interdigital cysts. Hydrogen Peroxide: Use Hydrogen Peroxide if your bulldog has a fresh open wound. You can also mix Peroxide with Cornstarch to make a paste that can be used on stubborn tear stains. Neosphorin or other anti-bacterial ointment. Keep this on hand to treat wounds that are scabbed over. Gold Bond Powder. Use a pointed tip plastic bottle such as a ketchup bottle or hair dye bottle to get the powder in the desired areas. Use Gold Bond on moist wrinkles and tail pockets, or especially if they get any diaper rash. Dental care: Don't forget those toofies! Dental brush and paste, or you can also get the finger cleaners. Chew toys also promote dental health, we do NOT recommend 'Greenies' or other dental chews due to the ingredients. Get 25mg benedryl tablets and keep them with your bully at all times. If your bulldog gets hives or an allergic reaction to something, this could save their life! The dosage is 1mg per pound, so a 50lb bulldog would get two 25mg pills. Panalog Ointment from your vet. Most vets will prescribe panalog to you to keep on hand. Other names for this are Animax or Entoderm ointment. If you bulldog gets yeast, bacteria of fungus in the nose rope, tail pocket or any other deep wrinkles, putting a bit of panalog in there will get rid of the nasty bacteria and the smell that stems from it. Depending on how bad the area is, will depend on how long you should use it for, and how long it takes to go away. Lemon Juice. If your bulldog becomes overheated or overexcited, their airway can become blocked. Squirt some lemon juice into the side of their mouth, or under the tongue. DO NOT put it down their throat, or they could aspirate it!!!! Take lemon juice with you to the park, on walks, or anywhere they can get overly excited. You just got an English Bulldog, so you must show them off! They will draw more attention than your average dog, so don't forget to deck them out in plenty of fabulous items! If you love to dress your bully, make sure they have a fabulous wardrobe with stuff that FITS bulldogs! Toys, toys and toys! Bulldogs love their toys, and love to chew! Make sure you get toys that are tough and can hold up to your bulldog. Remove smaller toys from their puppy box as they grow. Empty Water Bottles. These make a fabulous play toy, but never leave unattended! This is a must for every bulldog owner, so you can supply our members with plenty of photos and videos of your bully! A Gas Mask and Earplugs could also come in handy. How to care for your English bulldog puppy Posted on by Kiran English bulldogs are one of the exclusive dog breeds known for their cuteness and sturdiness at the same time. This bulldog breed is one of the ideal choices to have as a pet. Belonging to the brachycephalic dog breeds, English bulldog puppies often requires additional care. As a pet lover who owns an English bulldog puppy, there are certain factors you need to consider to ensure optimum health of your pooch, continue reading to get an insight about some of the important factors. Diet schedule As puppies require additional nutrient supplement when compared to the adult bulldogs, you can start feeding your puppy thrice a day, at least for the first four months. From the fifth month, you can cut back to feeding him twice a day and once he is a year old, you are good to feed him only once a day. Even though, he will happily accept all the anything edible item that you give him, it can be dangerous to his system. Always restrain your dog from ingesting the following food items, which can be toxic to his system. Chocolate: can have adverse affect on his heart and nervous system Avocado : can cause diarrhea or vomiting Alcohol: can cause intoxication Walnuts: known to affect the nervous system of English bulldog puppies and even cause muscle damage Caffeine: can induce diarrhea and vomiting Monitoring health Once you have bought your English bulldog puppy home, it is crucial to have a close eye on him for the first couple of weeks. It is during this period, he will be experiencing several changes from diet to medications. Keep him hydrated by giving him plenty of fresh water; the strategy can also help you to prevent him from eating a lot than necessary. Health checkup and treatment against pests Your new guest can easily fall prey to different pests like ticks, fleas, lice etc. Closely monitor your puppy, scan his skin for any irritations caused by excessive scratching and also look for redness in skin. If you find any abnormal skin issues, you need to take him to a local veterinarian. While you are at the veterinary clinic, you can subject your puppy for a complete checkup to sort out any issues pertaining to ear, heart, lung etc. It is important to get the ear of your bulldog inspected by the veterinarian; pests like tick and mites can easily find their way through to his ears to make a living out of the dirt and debris. Therefore, while you are at home with him, always give special attention if he seems to scratch his ears or shake his head excessively. English bulldog puppies are always an ideal choice as pets, as a caring pet owner, it is your duty to spend some time with your pooch, train and let him socialize at a very young age. Blog Posts.