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If your poodle has recently become pregnant, there's likely one question plaguing your mind: What color will my poodle puppies be? Believe it or not, you can actually predict—and even control—the coat color of your soon-to-be poodle puppies! These tests are used to help dog breeders make more informed decisions and manage the traits of their litters. His online resource contains Hundreds of Excellent Dog Training Videos that will take you step-by-step through the process of developing a healthy, happy well-behaved dog. Understanding Dominant and Recessive Genes: The First Step in Predicting Poodle Puppy Colors Determining the color of your poodle's puppies isn't as easy as it may initially seem because of one factor: hidden genes. Here's the thing about poodle parents: alongside the colors they display as adults, they may also carry the genes of other colors that have been passed along their ancestral tree. Poodles —and dogs in general—can carry either dominant or recessive genes. In some cases, they can carry both. They're usually identified by capital letters; e. Recessive genes are overruled by dominant genes. If a puppy has inherited both dominant and recessive genes, he'll appear as the dominant color but will still carry the recessive color. Black is a dominant color, so if one of the poodle parents is black, there's a high chance their puppies will also be black—unless they're carrying the Rufus gene, in which case the puppies may appear red. But this is where it gets a bit tricky. If a black poodle carrying a brown gene is mated with another black poodle carrying a brown gene, there's a possibility that some of their puppies will be brown. This means that the pup has inherited both copies of the recessive gene, one from each parent. This makes the pup a recessive color. For a poodle to be born with a recessive color, he must have two copies of the recessive gene. For it to be born with a dominant color, he needs only one copy of the dominant gene. Solid-color coats are also dominant genes. When a solid-colored poodle gets together with a parti-color or piebald poodle, most of their pups will either be solid-colored or have residual white markings. Note that this rule doesn't apply if the solid-colored parent carries a parti-color gene. If a puppy inherits two copies of the piebald gene, he'll be born with a lot of white in his coat. How to Determine the Coat Color s of Poodle Puppies According to Parent Coat Scientists have yet to master the science of dog color genetics, so coat color predictions are just that: predictions. Still, researchers have determined some possibilities and likely outcomes depending on the poodle parents' colors after decades of testing. If either of the parents has a hidden gene, the color predictions can go in a completely different direction. It should be no different for your dog. But you need to help him. The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health is the answer. This handy guide will help you recognize the symptoms of the health problems above. Get the knowledge to stay ahead of these terrible issues that can rob your lovely dog from vigor and life. Still, genetic testing is the only way to test a puppy's coat color before it's born. They also determine possible genotypes. Here are some locus types found in dogs , as well as possible genotypes: E Locus L Locus determines the relationship between the Black dominant gene and the Yellow recessive gene. The Yellow gene represents a variety of light colors, like reds, creams, apricots, and whites. In the past, these dogs were culled as an attempt to remove them from the gene pool. This did not work, and as simple recessives they pop up often even in seemingly all solid bloodlines. Just one copy of dominant black KB will cause a dog to be black or brown. Seal and ghost tan are potential exceptions, but we're not getting into that just yet. The pattern produced will depend on what the dog has on the A locus. The 4 genotypes on the A locus in order of dominance are; agouti aw , sable ay , phantom at , and recessive black a. Agouti poodles are breathtakingly beautiful. Certain poodles are sometimes mistakenly referred to as "phantom sables". This isn't genetically possible, and oftentimes these dogs are in fact agouti, and may have characteristics of both a phantom and sable dog. A sable dog can be nearly solid cream, or appear agouti. Often, they will be mostly solid cream or apricot with black ears and tail, along with black hairs mixed in on the back. Sable puppies change significantly as they grow. The only thing you can guarantee is they won't be the same color as an adult as they are as a puppy, and that they will be gorgeous no matter the final pattern! It produces the pattern most commonly associated with breeds such as the doberman or rottweiler. Phantom poodles will usually have tan "eyebrows", cheeks, chest spots, lower legs, and under the tail. It is striking and beautiful! There are also modifiers that can cause what we call creeping tan or saddle tan which can cause the tan areas to grow and spread, much like what is seen in some German shepherds. This modifier is still being studied and isn't fully understood. It is unique as it doesn't produce a pattern, but actually causes the dog to be just black or brown. This is one reason color testing is important. A solid black dog could produce patterns very unexpectedly in a breeding program. Combinations Patterns can be produced on a dog at the same time. You can have a dog that is both parti and sable. The dog would have the white areas to the coat, and the colored areas would be sable. The same goes for brindle. That would cause the colored areas of the coat to be brindled. You can have a dog that is parti, phantom, and brindle. This would be a parti colored dog that also had tan points, and within those tan points there would be striping. There are many possibilities and combinations. It all depends on what the parent dogs both express and carry. Two such patterns are seal and ghost tan. Both of these patterns will express occasionally in dogs that are genetically dominant black. For some reason in these dogs the pattern from the A locus leaks through and expresses in a unique way. If a dog is sable or agouti on the A locus, this pattern will show up slightly. If they are phantom, you will be able to see faint tan markings. It does seem to be inheritable as some poodle breeders are breeding these dogs and getting consistent results. However, it is the red Poodle that is so rare, so stunning and so special. Bringing this color into the Poodle genes and being able to produce such a shocking and beautiful dog was not easy. Let's take a look at how this was done and what you should know about his particular dog. Red poodles are rare and are of a faded gene. When they are produced, the pups usually come from dogs with apricot lines, which can be confusing to many since of course red is a much darker and deeper color. This gene may work to darken an apricot or sometimes a brown coat. One thing that is clear is that the red gene has absolutely no affect on blacks. The apricot gene is recessive to all Poodles except for the white. A true red will have black points. Liver points are acceptable but not preferred in the U. It took quite a while to achieve the amazing red Poodles that we see today. It was Ilse Konig of the Shangri-La Kennel who first came up with the idea of developing a red color standard. Experimental breeding was done by mating a small miniature apricot female Poodle to a large standard sized red at Palamares. The very first litter produced four red Poodle puppies. It is said that the color was simply amazing. Due to the rare pairing of two different sized Poodles, this placed the dogs into a category that is between the Miniature and the Standard, called the Klein or Moyan, which is popular and recognized in Europe. The biggest puppy from each litter was then bred…And this is what helped to slowly increase the size of the dog. After quite a few years of breeding and keeping red Poodle puppies, red Standards were then able to be bred relatively easily. Reds can go through many color changes as the dog grows. They occasionally are born a very bright red and then lighten over time. Some will stay lighter, however in some cases the Poodle will then darken up again as he or she ages. When a red does lighten, the color will usually become a sort of cinnamon color. In most cases, they are exceptionally dark and then lighten between 1 year old and 18 months old. Since a color change can occur during puppyhood.Or in the later adult stages, this means that the owner of an Apricot or tan my have a huge surprise if their Poodle's coat develops into this amazing, bright and rare color. So, do be aware that a red Poodle can fade, as fading is common with this breed. The exceptional color that one may see in a young puppy will often change with time; although this is not to say that the adult coat will not be gorgeous in its own right. When one does know that they have a red, here are the most popular names that are given: Amber. Poodles are known for their distinct curly coats that are often associated with the breed. Curly Toy Poodle Curly coats are the most common coat type among poodles, and they can produce darker puppies. This is because the curly coat type is associated with the presence of the B allele, which can produce black or brown coat colors. Therefore, poodles with curly coats are likelier to have puppies with darker coat colors, such as black, brown, or parti-colors. Corded Royal Poodle Corded coats are less common than curly coats and are characterized by long, thin cords that are formed by matting. Poodles with corded coats are more likely to produce puppies with dark or solid colors, as the cords can mask any color variations. Wavy Doodle Wavy coats are the rarest coat type among poodles and are characterized by loose, gentle waves. Poodles with wavy coats are likelier to produce puppies with lighter coat colors, such as cream or apricot. This is because the wavy coat type is associated with the absence of the B allele, which produces lighter coat colors. Poodle coat colors are diverse, with shades and patterns that can be predicted through an understanding of their inheritance patterns. Common poodle coat colors include black, brown, white, red, apricot, cream, parti, phantom, and sable. Black is the most common poodle coat color, and a dominant gene produces it. This means that if one parent has a black coat, there is a high likelihood that the puppies will also have a black coat. Brown is another common poodle coat color produced by a recessive gene. This means that both parents must carry the brown gene for the puppies to have a brown coat. White is another poodle coat color that is produced by a dominant gene. This means that if one parent has a white coat, there is a high likelihood that the puppies will also have a white coat. Red and apricot are also common poodle coat colors, and they are produced by a combination of genes that include a recessive gene for red. Black Standard Poodle Cream is a poodle coat color that is produced by a recessive gene. This means that both parents must carry the cream gene for the puppies to have a cream coat. Parti and phantom are two coat patterns found in poodles, and they are produced by a combination of genes that include both dominant and recessive genes. Sable poodles have a unique genetic makeup that determines their coat color. A dominant gene produces sable coat color, but other genes can also influence it. As a result, sable poodles can have puppies with a range of colors, including black, brown, and red, depending on their genetic makeup. Understanding Poodle Genetics To understand poodle genetics, it is crucial to have a basic understanding of genetics concepts. In poodles, genes determine physical traits such as coat color. Therefore, different genes can interact to produce various coat colors. Dominant vs. Recessive Genes Dominant genes are the genes that are expressed and determine the physical trait. Recessive genes are not expressed unless paired with another recessive gene. Coat Color Genetics Coat color genetics in poodles is determined by a combination of genes that interact to produce different coat colors. Understanding Alleles Alleles are different versions of the same gene. In poodles, different alleles can interact to produce different coat colors. Common Poodle Coat Colors Black, brown, and white are the most common poodle coat colors. White Poodles White poodles are one of the most popular coat colors for poodles. White poodles are often bred for their elegant and sophisticated appearance, and they are commonly seen in dog shows and competitions. However, breeding for white poodles can be challenging, as the white color is recessive and can be masked by other dominant coat colors. Additionally, white poodles can be prone to certain health issues, such as deafness and skin problems, due to their lack of pigmentation. Therefore, responsible breeding practices and genetic testing are crucial for producing healthy and high-quality white poodles. Black is the most common and dominant color for poodles, and black poodles can range in shades from jet black to a softer charcoal. Black poodles are highly sought after for their elegant and sophisticated appearance, and they are commonly seen in various settings, from family pets to show dogs. Standard Black Poodle Brown Poodles Brown poodles , also known as chocolate poodles, are a popular and striking coat color for poodles. Brown poodles range in shades from a light cafe-au-lait color to a deep dark chocolate color. Brown poodles can have various markings, such as white patches on their chest or toes, and they are highly sought after for their unique and stunning appearance. However, breeding for brown poodles can be challenging, as the brown color is recessive and can be masked by other dominant coat colors. Red Poodles Red poodles are a vibrant and eye-catching coat color for poodles. Red poodles range in shades from a light apricot color to a deep, rich red color. Red poodles can have various markings, such as white patches on their chest or toes. Red poodles are highly sought after for their unique and stunning appearance, and they are commonly seen in dog shows and competitions. However, breeding for red poodles can be challenging, as the red color is recessive and can be masked by other dominant coat colors. Apricot poodles range in shades from a light, peachy color to a deeper, rusty color. Cream poodles are lighter in color, ranging from pale ivory to creamy white. Apricot and cream poodles can have various markings, such as white patches on their chest or toes. Apricot and cream poodles are highly sought after for their soft and elegant appearance, and they are commonly seen in various settings, from family pets to show dogs. Apricot Toy Poodles Parti Poodles Parti poodles are a unique and eye-catching coat color pattern for poodles. The parti pattern features patches of two or more colors on a white background. The colors can vary widely, ranging from black and white to brown and white, and even red and white. Parti poodles can have a variety of markings and patterns, and they are highly sought after for their unique and stunning appearance. However, breeding for parti poodles can be challenging, as the parti pattern is recessive and can be masked by other dominant coat colors. Parti Standard Poodle Phantom Poodles Phantom poodle colors are a unique and striking coat color pattern. The phantom pattern features solid patches of one color on a background of another color. Typically, phantom poodles have a base coat color of black, brown, or red with lighter-colored markings on their eyebrows, muzzle, chest, and legs. The markings can range from a cream or apricot color to a silver or grey color. Phantom poodles are highly sought after for their unique and beautiful coat color pattern. Sable poodles have a unique color pattern where the hairs have multiple colors, often dark at the root and gradually lightening to a lighter color at the tips. The sable color can range from a deep mahogany color to a light fawn color. Sable poodles are highly sought after for their unique and striking appearance, and they are commonly seen in various settings, from family pets to show dogs. However, breeding for sable poodles can be challenging, as the sable color is controlled by multiple genes and can be difficult to predict. Sable Teacup Poodle Puppy Breeding Poodles for Coat Colors Breeding poodles for specific coat colors is a complex process that requires careful consideration of genetics and inheritance patterns. Understanding the principles of poodle genetics can help breeders produce poodles with desired coat colors. To produce poodles with specific coat colors, breeders must first understand the basics of genetic inheritance. Coat color is determined by a combination of genes, with some genes being dominant and others recessive. In addition, each poodle has two copies of each gene, one inherited from each parent. When breeding poodles for specific coat colors, breeders must consider the genotype of each parent. The genotype refers to the genetic makeup of a poodle and determines which genes are dominant and which are recessive. For example, if a poodle carries two dominant genes for a certain coat color, all of its offspring will also have that coat color. Standard Poodles Breeders must also consider the phenotype of each parent. The phenotype refers to the physical appearance of a poodle and is determined by the interaction between the genotype and the environment. For example, a poodle with a genotype for a certain coat color may not exhibit that color if it is exposed to certain chemicals or if it is affected by a health condition. To produce poodles with specific coat colors, breeders can use selective breeding to combine desirable traits from each parent. This involves selecting poodles with the desired coat colors and breeding them together to produce offspring with the same coat colors. However, it is important for breeders to avoid breeding practices that can lead to genetic health issues. Inbreeding and line breeding, for example, can increase the risk of genetic mutations and health problems in poodle puppies. Therefore, responsible breeding practices are essential to ensure the health and well-being of poodle puppies. This includes using DNA testing to identify potential health issues and avoiding breeding dogs that are closely related or that carry genetic mutations that can cause health problems in their offspring. Factors That Affect Coat Color Standard Poodles Factors that can affect the coat color of poodles can be numerous and include both internal and external influences. For example, a black poodle may develop gray or silver hairs as it gets older. This is a natural process and does not affect the genetic makeup of the poodle. Environment: The environment can also affect the coat color of poodles. Exposure to sunlight can cause a fading effect on some coat colors, such as red and apricot. Similarly, exposure to certain chemicals or shampoos can alter the coat color of poodles. Certain health conditions can cause changes in the pigmentation of the coat, such as hormonal imbalances or skin allergies. Genetics: The most significant factor affecting the coat color of poodles is genetics. The genetic makeup of the parents determines which coat colors are most likely to be passed down to their offspring. Breeders can use DNA testing to identify the genetic makeup of their poodles and predict the coat colors of their future puppies. Breeding Practices: Breeding practices can also affect the coat color of poodles. Responsible breeding practices ensure that only healthy and genetically sound poodles are bred, which can increase the likelihood of producing healthy and desirable coat colors in their offspring. Crossbreeding: Crossbreeding can also affect the coat color of poodles. For example, a poodle that is crossed with a Labrador Retriever can produce puppies with a range of coat colors, including black, chocolate, and yellow. By taking into account their age, environment, health, genetics, breeding practices, and crossbreeding, breeders and poodle owners can have a better understanding of what coat colors to expect in their puppies. The Role of DNA Testing DNA testing is a powerful tool that can help breeders and poodle owners identify the specific genes that determine coat color in poodles. By analyzing the DNA of a poodle, breeders can gain a deeper understanding of their genetic makeup, including the genes that influence coat color. DNA testing can provide accurate predictions of future puppy coat colors by identifying which genes are dominant and recessive. This can help breeders make informed decisions about which poodles to breed together to produce desired coat colors in their offspring. Some coat colors and patterns are associated with certain health conditions, such as white poodles being more prone to deafness. By identifying these potential health issues early on, breeders can take steps to minimize the risk of passing on these genetic conditions to their puppies. In addition, DNA testing can help prevent unethical breeding practices that can lead to health problems in poodle puppies. By identifying the genetic makeup of a poodle, breeders can avoid breeding dogs that are closely related or that carry genetic mutations that can cause health problems in their offspring. Different coat colors have unique inheritance patterns, and understanding these patterns can help breeders produce poodles with desired coat colors. DNA testing can also help identify specific genes that determine coat color and potential health issues. Email address: Leave this field empty if you're human: Popular Posts. Solid colored Poodles are the same color all over with no markings. Poodle Colors Black — Black is one of the most popular colors and many Poodles seen in the show ring are black. A black Poodle has black fur, black points pads, nose, lips, and eyelids , and dark grey skin. A black should be easy to recognize right? Silver or blue pups also appear black when they are very young. A true black Poodle will remain black throughout his life and will never fade. White — White is the color that many people think of when they think Poodle. In fact, I have spoken to many people who thought that all Poodles were white! White Poodles are born white unlike creams and apricots who sometimes fade to white and always have black points. Cream — Cream is the lightest color of the red series, lighter than apricot. Many cream pups will eventually fade to white. Most creams will have slightly darker areas on their ears and tails. Apricot — Apricots and creams are quite hard to tell apart, but apricot is a slightly stronger, warmer color with the ears appearing almost red. Many apricots have a darker stripe running down their backs. Apricot Poodles often fade to cream with age. The points should be black. Red — Red Poodles can vary greatly in shade from rich dark red to almost apricot. Red is very striking and coveted by many people but red often fades and some dogs that are red as pups end up only slightly darker than apricots. Brown or Chocolate — Brown Poodles are born a rich dark brown color and all the points are also brown. Blue — Blue is a beautiful color but as pups blue Poodles are black! As they get older, they will become more of a muted shade and end up an ashy or charcoal color. A blue Poodle is lighter than black but darker than silver. Silver — Silver Poodles initially look black but when you shave their noses as many breeders do at a few weeks old you will see that they are grey underneath. Silver dogs take a few years to reach their final color. Silver Beige — Silver beige pups have brown points and look like brown pups at birth. You will not see the true color unless you shave them or look into the roots of the hair where you may see creamy undertones. As adults, they are often slightly darker than the silver beige Poodles. Poodle Patterns Patterned Poodles are very striking and are growing in popularity although they are rarely seen in the show ring where the solid colors seem to take precedence. Some die-hard Poodle fans look down on these multi-colored beauties and it has even been suggested that Poodles that are not solid-colored are not pure. You may be surprised to know that the original Poodles were parti or multicolored and solid-colored coats were produced by selective breeding. Multicolored and patterned Poodles are making a comeback and I for one, am very glad to see this. What could be more splendid than a Poodle of many colors? Parti Colored — Parti colored Poodles are one of the most popular and eye-catching of the multi-colors. Parti Poodles are predominantly white with patches of any other Poodle color irregularly placed all over them much like a piebald horse. Parti Poodles can also fade like many of the solid-colored dogs. For example, a puppy that appears black and white at birth may turn out to be blue or silver and white. A black and white or brown and white parti Poodle with ticking can look particularly beautiful, almost as if he has a sprinkling of frost over his coat. Tuxedo or Abstract — A tuxedo Poodle is technically a parti-color. Rather than having irregular patches of color the tuxedo is predominantly solid colored but with white markings on his chest, abdomen, and paws. Many tuxedos also sport a white blaze on the head or muzzle and a white tail tip. Phantom — Phantom Poodles are also predominantly one color but have points of another color much in the style of a Doberman or Rottweiler. Most Phantoms are black or chocolate with tan points but can also be silver or blue with tan, cream, or white points. Sable Poodles have coats that are usually a shade of brown though can be blue or silver with black tips. Sable pups change color completely by the time they reach adulthood with the original color remaining on the ears and around their face. For this reason, you should never choose a sable pup based purely on color as what you see is most definitely not what you get. Brindle — Brindle is a very common pattern in the dog world but is most often associated with other breeds, such as Danes, Mastiffs, Boxers, and Greyhounds. Not Poodles! Brindles can be any color but what sets them apart is their tiger stripes. Dominant and Recessive Genes This is where it becomes tricky. Others are recessive overruled by dominant genes. When we talk about color genetics, we use the terms Genotype and Phenotype. Genotype means heredity so all the genes the dog has got from his parents. Phenotype is how he appears, so the color that he shows. If a dog has inherited both dominant and recessive genes he will appear as the dominant color but may carry genes for the recessive color. Black is always dominant, and this must be considered when breeding black Poodles as a dog carrying black will appear black unless he also carries the Rufus gene when he will appear red but may also carry brown. If the recessive brown gene is carried and the black dog is mated to another black dog also carrying brown, there is a possibility that a brown puppy will be born. This happens because the pup has inherited two copies of the recessive gene, one from each parent. For a dog to be a recessive color he must carry two copies of the recessive gene as we must remember that dominant always overrules recessive so only one copy of the dominant gene is needed to make the dog display a coat of a dominant color. Recessive genes bring complications to breeding for color as they can stay hidden for generations before making a sudden appearance. White, whilst being considered one of the standard Poodle colors, is still a largely unknown gene and as of yet, there is no test for it. This means it is unknown whether it is a recessive or dominant color. The gene for a solid-colored coat is also a dominant gene. Where a solid-colored dog is mated to a parti-colored or piebald dog there is more chance that most of the pups will be solid-colored or have residual white markings. Unless the solid-colored parent also carries the parti-colored gene. If a pup inherits two copies of the piebald gene it will show a lot more white in the coat. If it only inherits one copy it will display much less white in the coat, if any. Hidden Genes Hidden genes are exactly what you would expect from the name. They are genes that the dog carries but does not express. A dog will express the color of the most dominant gene that he carries but if he also carries recessive genes for other colors these are the hidden genes. Put very simply if you have a puppy born that is a different color to either of his parents that is because he has inherited two copies of a hidden gene carried by both parents. To express a color that is recessive the dog must inherit two copies of the gene. What Colours are possible from different coloured parents Predicting what colors, you will get from any two particular parents is extremely difficult as color genetics is still not an exact science. However, we have determined some of the possibilities and likely outcomes. Remember that the color of the pups depends on many factors including hidden genes. We must presume there are no hidden genes in this instance and simply look at the color that is expressed:. People want to know what color puppies they will get if they breed this color to that color. All you can do is make a guess. With some research and knowing the background of your lines, one can make a more educated guess, but once again its just a guess. I have spent a lot of time and effort to study pedigrees and colors but even I am still learning. Especially when it comes to the multi colors its all still a guess. Vet gen does have a DNA test that will supposedly tell you the color genes that your dog carries. I will warn people that you should never bank all your money on that test. I have known of quite a few people that have tested their dogs and gotten strange colors in their litters that were not even talked about in the test. I am also unsure if this test takes into account the multi colors. I am going to take this page and talk about what I have learned and what I have had personal experience with colors. First off what you personally are breeding for in color, is what you have to take into account. Just throwing 2 poodles together and hoping for the best is NOT good breeding practices. Once you have established that two dogs are proper breeding material and that they offset each others faults, then you have to take into account, color compatibility and what you are working towards in color. Most reputable breeders you will find will specialize in certain colors. Trying to work on too many colors at once can become frustrating and confusing, even though the temptation is great! Just throwing 2 colors together can seriously destroy the colors and their points pigment of the nose, lips, eye liner, and pads are considered the points. All other colors should have black or self colored points. This also comes into play when talking about Multicolors and mixes of the above colors. You can pretty much count on a Sable ALWAYS carrying the fading gene and that the puppy will not stay the color that it is when it is born. There may be a color hidden there that you did not know about and need to consider. Its a good way to tell the recessive color genes in your dog. This includes the parti colors. This is why many breeders think blues are a great basis for a breeding program, depending of course upon what colors you are breeding for. Mixing of these colors will cause incorrect pigment on the points since the brown shades have liver colored points and Red, Apricot, Cream, and White should all have jet black points. Breeding red or apricot to silver causes the color to fade even more than they already do as the silver and blue colors carries the fading gene. True I have bred blue to red before due to the fact that was what I had to work with at the time. But if you are truly working to deepen and darken reds and apricots and produce beautiful dogs that hold their color, you do not want to introduce any more of the fading gene into these already fading colors than you have to. These colors once again will introduce the fading gene into your browns that you are trying to keep dark. These colors will ad a yellowish tone to your whites. However, there are some breeders out there that do breed for creams and off whites by using these color combinations. Other than the absolute DO NOT's listed above, how you combine colors totally depends upon what your end goal color is in your breeding program. When using a black every few generations in a red breeding program you will hopefully help to keep dark points on the puppies and also to darken their color. HOWEVER, be very careful what colors are in the background of said black that you do not inadvertently introduce more of the fading gene. Many people consider a color bred red to have apricot in the background. This is because apricot is a dilute of red so still in the same color family. HOWEVER, do not forget that this apricot causes more fading gene to be present in your reds, so the fewer apricots used the better to keep the color. Breeding true blacks to a brown is a great way to help reduce the fading that we see in most browns. HOWEVER, once again be very careful what colors are in the background of said black that you do not inadvertently introduce more of the fading gene. Remember white is already a fading color so breeding it to another fading color will not hurt the color. You really do have to be careful when breeding whites as it is easy to loose the pigment in the points. Putting a Silver, Blue, or Black in the background will help to keep these points nice and dark. Your best chances exist when one parent being bred to these colors is a silver. I would stay away from using whites, as I have said above, or you will have to worry about pigment on resulting white offspring. When it comes to color and pattern breeding in the parti colors and by parti I mean the old definition of more than one color , it is VERY difficult to say what you are going to get. This is probably due to breeders here in the US focusing on the solid colors for so long and looking down upon the parti colors as something that is undesirable. NOTE: If you are breeding for a specific color pattern it is recommended to breed like pattern to like pattern for best results. It is very hard to say though how heavy of markings you will get in a breeding as of yet. I have had very heavily marked piebalds that have been bred together and have produced piebalds will very little spotting at all. Since each and every piebald has a unique pattern and no two are alike its very hard to guess at how the genes will come together. You also have the new trend of people trying to produce heavier marked piebalds. These piebalds are know as true Tuxedos a dog that has white in a bib around the neck that may or may not go all the way around the neck, totally white on the belly and up into the chest, white on the legs that may extend all the way up to the elbow and or knees, may or may not have white markings on the face or head, and with the rest of the dog being predominately the darker color. There are many breeder out there that are incorrectly calling their abstract mismarked poodles a tuxedo. These puppies are usually produced from solid dogs or a solid bred to a piebald and not from two piebalds bred together. They are heavier on the dark color than the white but still are considered to be a piebald and are produced by piebalds. Once again your best chance of getting a tuxedo is to breed to a tuxedo. However you will also get regular piebalds in the litter. Since these tuxedo piebalds are just a heavily marked version of a piebald, the exact formula of breeding to get these markings is still being worked on. It all depends upon what the background of that phantom dog is and if that dog will carry the piebald gene. If the phantom carries the piebald gene I have found that the phantom gene is recessive to that of the piebald gene. If the phantom does NOT carry for piebald, then usually what you will get is a mixture of heavily abstract mismarked and even solid colored puppies. Every once in a while you will get a phantom patterned puppy but as I said it seems to be recessive so that would mean that the piebald would carry the gene for phantom. Puppies produced from such breedings are usually referred to as parti factored. Meaning that they carry the gene for parti. However this is still debated among parti people. Genetically they should carry for parti regardless, however when some of these parti factored are bred to a piebald they will not produce piebald puppies. It all will depend upon how these recessive gene line up in the produced puppies. Also remember that you can breed a pair together one time and get totally different results the next time they are bred together. Some colors seem to be more conducive to producing piebalds when bred to solid colored dogs such as white and silvers. It is still unsure as to why these solid colors seem to produce piebalds more than others but is speculated to be because they are recessive colors and not dominate to the piebald color. I personally have noticed that blues will tend to produce piebalds as well as other parti colors when bred to a parti patterned dog. Once again I believe this is because blues carry the gene for all colors. Once again as with the piebald puppies it may or may not come through in your breeding. It depends upon how the recessive genes line up. Also as with the piebalds there are some colors that are more conducive to producing phantom when bred to a solid than other colors. There seems to be a link between the phantoms and the red poodles. It is unsure what the correlation is yet but there is a lot of speculation. I have also noticed that whites and silvers will allow the phantom gene to come through. Also surprisingly I have known of quite a few solid blacks that will throw phantoms that have not had phantoms in their background that we know of. Many of these solid blacks have had a lot of red in the background, which leads us back to the correlation between reds and phantoms. If you look at the dogs that were used to create the poodle, such as the Portuguese water dog, you will see where these abstract markings come from. Abstract markings are called mismarks by many of the older breeders. I find that the term abstract used by the UKC is a lot more pleasing to most people. Contrary to the belief of the old time solid breeders this is not a flaw but something that is in the poodle genes from the beginning as I explained above. These dogs will usually have white on the chest, some white on the feet or toes and may or may not have white markings on the face or head. In the old days all the parti patterns were lumped into the mismark category, however today we know that the abstract gene and the genes for the other parti patterns are separate genes. Since most dogs carry for the abstract, you can get abstracts in any litter, whether its solid bred to solid or solid bred to another pattern. On the other hand I have bred to poodle that were abstracts together and gotten some of my most beautiful solid colored puppies. You do have to be careful as these solids will then carry this gene recessively and if you are working to produce only solid colored puppies you will have to breed accordingly. It is unsure as to where that particular gene originated but I believe this gene too comes from the dogs used to create the poodle breed. I have found that most brindles are produced from a blue parent. Once again this would go to show that blue carries for everything. Brindle bred to brindle will produce almost nothing but brindle as this gene seems to be quite dominate. Brindle bred to a solid color will usually produce a litter with mostly brindles and a few solids. These solids produced WILL carry and produce brindles. The brindle pattern can be produced in a variety of colors. SABLES Sables have also been around since the beginning in poodles and in my opinion is a difficult color to reproduce. A sable bred to a sable is of course your best bet to produce sable but it does not always result in sables. I have seen two sables bred together and the result was nothing but solid colored puppies with no markings what so ever. I have also noticed that many sables will come from a blue parent just as with the brindle pattern. I have also seen sables produced by solid silvers and whites. It is difficult to try and tell someone how to breed for sable when not much is known about the sable gene. I also do not know of a lot of breeders out there breeding just for sable. Like piebald markings on the body and phantom markings on the face, or a brindle with abstract markings, or a piebald with brindle or sable being the spotting color. These are the most difficult to determine where they came from. Its all in how these usually recessive genes line up. Sometimes they appear out of seemingly thin air. Until more is know about how the parti genes combine, and more test breedings are done to try and produce more multi patterns, its almost impossible to tell someone what to breed together other than the obvious combinations that may or may not produce the desired effect to produce a multi patterned parti. Just for an example, many people think that breeding a piebald to a phantom will produce a dog with piebald markings on the body but phantom markings on the face. Where this may have been the way some have been produced in the past, it will usually not result in a multi patterned dog. Article written by Keisha C. It just wastes my time and yours. I do not have any puppies or adults for sale. All articles on this site unless otherwise states are written by me, Keisha of Arpeggio Poodles. Articles by other people have been given their due credit. I am sorry I have to post this but I am finding my articles being stolen and being placed on other peoples sites. All photos are sole property of Arpeggio Poodles unless otherwise noted. Reproduction of photos without express written permission is prohibited! All pictures and graphics unless otherwise stated are of my own design. Please do not take them. Most of the information on my site is from my own views, opinions, or research that I have done. Where appropriate I have sited my sources and links to their sites. Do not take my opinions as that of a licensed vet. Any person that relies solely on my information does so at their own risk. Thanks for all the support! We have reached so many visits that our counter that only goes to 1,,, has started over for the 6th time now. Thanks everyone for making this site such a success! This site is dedicated to my Mother and Father. Bless you both. I know you are happy once again being reunited. Thank you for being my friends, my teachers, my heros and my parents. I miss you both greatly. Your loving daughter. Poodle Colors March 18, Poodles come in all shapes, sizes, and colors, to the point that the terminology can become quite bewildering. In this article, we shed some light, rather than hair, on the rainbow world of Poodle colors, exploring the most common coat hues and patterns before delving deeper into the weird yet wonderful world of ticked and parti Poodles. Table of Contents 12 Common Solid Colors of the Poodle Most Poodles, regardless of size, come in solid colors, some of which are more common than others. Although black Poodles are often overlooked in favor of lighter-colored puppies or rescues, they are no more aggressive or less intelligent than any other color Poodle. There is one slight health discrepancy, however, in that studies have found that black and other dark-colored Poodles are more susceptible to squamous cell carcinoma of the digit SCDD than other lighter-colored dogs. Due to their poor visibility at night, these dogs should always wear an LED collar when getting walked in the dark. Some may take a year to develop the blue tinge to their coats, while others hang onto the vestiges of their puppyhood black for 24 months. A quick examination of their paws may also reveal some silver or white hairs between the pads. As a blue Poodle puppy ages, so its color clears, becoming almost gun-metal grey. Some shading is acceptable in blue Poodles, but to be true to the breed standard, they should, like the black Poodle, have black noses, dark eyes, and black toenails. Silver Another diluted version of the black Poodle, like the blues, silvers are born black but will start to clear much earlier. By the time they reach six weeks, silver hues will be apparent around the face and paws, with the rest of the coat following suit over the next year or so. Silver is recessive color, making it more difficult to breed for, and silver puppies are only really guaranteed if both parents are also silver Poodles. This process is caused by the Progressive Graying gene which is found in some black, blue, and brown Poodles. Although some Poodles are born gray and remain that way throughout their lives, others will start to change color at around two or three months of age, gradually fading as they mature. Regardless of how the gray coat is produced this color is recognized by the AKC. Like the black, blue, and silver Poodles, gray dogs should also have black noses and nails and dark-colored eyes. Cream Cream is one of several off-white colorations found in all sizes of Poodle, and distinguishing one from another can be challenging. A cream Poodle is fairly easy to identify as it is one of the few light-colored Poodles that have black rather than liver-colored noses. Establishing whether a Poodle is white or cream is more difficult as both have black points and a pale cream, in certain lights, may appear white. Experts will no doubt dismiss this confusion as pure ignorance as the two are very different. While white indicates the complete absence of color, the cream is a very diluted brown, not far from apricot. Indeed, many cream-colored Poodles are born light or even medium brown and then clear as they mature. White White is one of the most popular and most common colors for Poodles. Despite being white, a white Poodle belongs to the black hair type and therefore has a black nose, nails, and eye-rims, as well as dark-colored eyes, giving it a striking appearance. In the past, a white Poodle with pink toenails or a patch of pink skin would still have succeeded in the show ring but, these days, the AKC insists on white Poodles with black extremities only. This color needs to be washed with a special shampoo for Poodles often to stay bright and clean. Both the Toy and the Miniature Poodle carry this trait, however, and it does appear to affect those with white pigmentation more than other colors. Brown Once lumped together with Red Poodles, brown Poodles should ideally be the color of dark mahogany or a rich walnut brown, as opposed to chestnut. Nevertheless, brown Poodles boast more color variations and a wider range of hues than almost any of the other colors. Most brown Poodles are born dark and then fade as they mature, producing stunning shades of cinnamon brown and coffee. One of the biggest problems facing the brown Poodle is its tendency to have very pale yellow, almost green eyes. This is an undesirable trait in the show ring but difficult to eliminate in breeding. The most sought-after brown Poodles have amber-colored eyes, a liver nose, and dark toenails, as per the breed standard. Rufus is a recessive allele, which is perhaps why red Poodles are so rare. Red Poodles are particularly prone to color change, with some fading as they age and others darkening. Apricot Like red, apricot is a relatively new color for Poodles, having only been accepted into the breed standard comparatively recently. The first apricot-colored Standard Poodle was born in but categorized as liver at the time. Since then, apricot Poodles have won a variety of prestigious awards, and their popularity has continued. Last year, world-famous Lionel Messi welcomed an apricot Toy Poodle named Abu into his family, adding a splash of color and cuteness to the Messi tribe. Although Poodles of this color may look similar to red ones, the cafe au lait hue is closer to silver than red. Silver Beige Unlike cafe au lait, silver beige is a diluted shade of brown, and most silver beige Poodles are born brown, clearing around their face and paws within the first six weeks of life. Silver beige is much more popular than cafe au lait, but the two are frequently confused. While cafe au lait puppies are usually born that color, silver beige Poodles are born brown and subsequently fade to silver beige. Parti Poodles Parti Poodles have large amounts of white on their body. This can be mixed with any of the regular colors: red, black, brown etc. These dogs are highly sought-after. You will probably have to look for a bit in order to find the Parti Poodle of your dreams! This is produced by a specific gene and can even be seen in pure white Poodles that, if they have the ticking gene, will appear dirty. More of a marking than a color in its own right, it can be difficult to spot the spots on a Poodle puppy. More commonly found on parti Poodles than solid colors, ticking becomes increasingly obvious as the puppy matures. While the United Kennel Club sees ticking as an acceptable trait in a Poodle, the AKC disqualifies such dogs from conformation classes, as it does parti Poodles. Some Poodle owners are convinced that certain colored dogs are cleverer than others. The idea behind this theory is that black and white Poodles were the original breed standard colors and have therefore been bred for temperament and intelligence, rather than color. You may indeed have a particularly intelligent white Poodle at some stage in your life, but you could equally have an Einstein-style Tuxedo Poodle. At the end of the day, Poodles are as varied as humans, and some are blessed with superior intelligence just as others are endowed with an especially friendly temperament. What is the Most Popular Poodle Color? Whites are common and much-loved for their regal appearance, while the black is easier to keep to clean, making it popular among more practical Poodle owners. Are Parti Poodles More Expensive? Do Poodles Have a Favorite Person? While most dog breeds adore whoever feeds them, Poodles are a little more particular, selecting their favorite human based on their personality, rather than their ability to provide care and sustenance. The Bottom Line The world of Poodles is full of color and variety. While traditionalists may prefer to stick with the standard breed colors, those drawn to the exotic may find the parti Poodles more attractive. An ancient breed dating back to the 15th or possibly even 14th century, it seems unlikely the Poodle will ever lose its popularity. She spends all her waking hours with her Australian Cattle Dog, Koala, either walking, horse-riding, running, or just hanging out. Originally from the UK, Nicky been living with dogs for over 40 years and is a passionate dog-owner. With a Masters Degree from the University of London under her belt, Nicky has had a diverse career, training and riding horses, running safari lodges, and hosting volunteers. Unleash the real potential of your companion! We will email you daily with training tips, ideas and videos. This is an introductory course into our training philosophy. You will get customized video lessons based on your training goals — and you can implement them in just 5 minutes a day.

SC Tax, Training, boarding and delivery are all additional. Australian Labradoodle Sizes: Australian Labradoodles come in these size ranges: Micro mini Australian Labradoodles are " to shoulder and grow to be 10 to 15 lb. We occasionally have them here and there but it is hard to determine which are truly micro minis since puppy choosing happens at 6 weeks of age when all our puppies are tiny. Our miniature Labradoodles are " to the shoulder and around lbs. Our miniature Labradoodles or minis are the result of a miniature Australian Labradoodle bred to a miniature or medium Australian Labradoodle. The vast majority of our puppies fall into this category. Medium Labradoodles are " to the shoulder and weigh 30 to 45 lbs. Standard Labradoodles are about 20" to 22" to the shoulder 45 to 60 lb. The breed standard for "Standard Labradoodles" is 20" and up. We do not breed standard sized Labradoodles in our breeding program. Coat Types: Fleece: also known as borderline or wavy, is soft to the touch - an allergy friendly coat. It can be curly or wavy. Wool: also known as curly, slightly coarse feeling to the touch - an allergy friendly coat. Hair: also known as flat or slick coat, this is a shedding coat and is NOT allergy friendly. Grooming requirements of Australian Labradoodles: There are several factors to consider in grooming your Australian Labradoodle. One is: how long do you want to keep the coat, or what look are you going for? The "shaggy" look is most popular and they can be groomed just a couple times a year. If you keep your pet indoors most of the time you can get away with an occasional bath and brushing every few days. If you want the shorter look, which requires less brushing you will want to groom your pet every couple of months. The next thing to consider is coat type. A curly wool coat is not one you can keep "shaggy" but would tangle and mat if let grow long - they should be groomed every months, depending on care given. A fleece wavy coat will allow for the two different grooming options I spoke about and is the most desired Labradoodle coat. The other coat options we do not breed as they often produce shedders - that is why we breed multi-generation Australian Labradoodles, to produce the best coats and temperaments. Other costs include healthcare, toys, insurance, and the cost of any training, socialization, and canine sports classes you join. You can get wellness or preventive care plans to help spread the cost of some of these monthly fees. You can feed commercial or opt for homemade food, but if you do make the meals yourself, you will have to calculate protein, carbs, and vitamins and minerals to make sure your dog is getting everything it needs. If your dog has allergies, sensitivities, or general health problems, you may need special food that caters to these requirements. Labradoodles can have similarly high requirements. Some owners choose to undertake grooming and maintenance themselves while others book and attend regular grooming sessions with a professional. Which route you choose will ultimately determine the cost of grooming. A good compromise is to pay for professional grooming every 6 months and to brush, trim, and clip between professional sessions. If treatment and medication are not covered by pet insurance, you will have to meet these costs yourself. While this is true, insurance does offer peace of mind , as well as financial protection. If your dog is involved in an accident or does come down with an expensive illness, you may be hit with a vet bill of thousands of dollars. With pet insurance, the majority of this should be paid by your insurer, which means that you can decide on the best course of treatment according to how beneficial it is and not how expensive it is. If you have the kind of dog that gets through toys in no time, consider subscribing to a dog toy box. If yours gets bored of their toys, rotate new toys in and out of circulation, keeping old toys in a cupboard before giving them back after a few months. Your dog will treat it like a new toy. Image Credit: Mariusz S. It can be trained, enjoys working or taking part in canine sports, and does benefit from regular walks. Otherwise, the primary costs for owning one of these dogs will be food, insurance, and the cost of any professional grooming. The Labradoodle also benefits from being given plenty of exercise, but also mental stimulation. Canine sports, including agility, are a good way to provide the stimulation your Doodle needs, and these do cost money. If your dog develops behavioral issues that you are unable to fix yourself, there is a cost associated with training or canine behavioral work. First, consider adopting rather than buying, and if you do buy, do you really need a dog with an exceptional pedigree? You can save money on food by buying in bulk when the food is on offer, and ensure that you are getting the best value for money from the food you do buy. Insurance is another area where you can reduce regular costs. It is a good idea to have insurance but look at the level of coverage you get, as well as the excess and the copayment levels. For a slightly higher excess, you may be able to save some money on your monthly bills. Preventive care, or wellness, plans can also save you some money in the long run, but you do need to do the math and ensure that they really do represent good value for money or whether it would be cheaper to pay for each treatment individually. Grooming costs can add up , especially if you visit the groomer every month. Conclusion The Australian Labradoodle is considered a Breed in Development by the American Kennel Club and one should be fifth generation from the parent breeds, at least, to be considered a true Aussie Labradoodle. The breed is smart and intelligent, level-headed, and it gets along with family and friends while also tending to be friendly with strangers. Puppies are ready for their new homes starting at eight weeks old. We do have fall and winter reservations for and available. Older puppies are priced by their age and level of training. There is no deposit due until your application has been approved. We do not like to accept deposits before speaking with and approving our adopting families. If you would like to be considered for a puppy, please fill out our application located on this website. All puppies have a full 3 yrs health guarantee and lifetime support. Puppies are ready for their new homes starting at eight weeks, if we ship your puppy, they will be prepared to travel at nine weeks in the USA only. All other international destinations vary. We will hold your eight-week-old puppy free of charge for seven days and start potty training crate training , after that date, there will be a .We also offer customized puppy training packages. All deposits are transferable to other litters. We work very hard to find the best fit for our puppies and your family. Occasionally you find the timing unsuitable to receive your new puppy; you will be moved to the next available litter Each Australian Labradoodle puppy is sent home with the following: three-year health guarantee. Labradoodles are a very popular mix-breed pet and they are highly sought-after because of their lovable personalities. However, the cost of an Australian Labradoodle can greatly vary across the board with some costing hundreds of dollars and many costing thousands. There has been a huge increase in demand for Australian Labradoodle puppies in recent years — with more people buying this breed than ever before. This is an amazing dog with so many great personality traits to offer a household — hence the popularity. An Australian Labradoodle originates from the Poodle and Australian Labrador dog breeds, which give this dog a very playful and affectionate temperament, as well as highly intelligent and clever. To add more dynamic characteristics to the coat, the pup is then bred with an Irish Water Spaniel. With that being said, Australian Labradoodles are often priced quite a bit higher than your average dog. There are a number of different factors that contribute to this and we need to carefully assess all of them to determine the actual price of an Australian Labradoodle. After extensively researching Australian Labradoodles, I have been able to gather enough information to determine the cost of this breed. Cost of an Australian Labradoodle An Australian Labradoodle is not your everyday breed and they can be priced quite higher because of it. They are priced differently based on how the Australian Labradoodle was bred — with reputable breeders charging the most. On the other hand, amateur breeders may sell their Australian Labradoodles at a much cheaper price, but you need to approach them with caution. We also need to consider that not every Australian Labradoodle has had the same upbringing. Although most people buy their Australian Labradoodles as puppies, some get theirs for specific purposes such as for therapy dogs. Cost to Adopt an Australian Labradoodle The most affordable way to buy an Australian Labradoodle is to get one from a shelter. There are a number of different rescue shelters that specialize in Labradoodles but you want to ensure that you choose your dog carefully if you are specifically looking for an Australian variation. That is why people often prefer to pay extra for their dog and get it as a puppy from a reputable breeder. Cost Factors of an Australian Labradoodle The Australian Labradoodle is quite dynamic and there are a number of different factors that influence the price of this dog. There are defining characteristics that certain owners search for when picking out an Australian Labradoodle and they are generally willing to pay more for them. High Demand In recent years, there has been a growing demand for Australian Labradoodles — and understandably so. These are loving, affectionate, and intelligent dogs that will fit right into any household. However, the increase in demand has resulted in prices becoming higher for these dogs. Breeders that work with Australian Labradoodles are intentionally increasing their prices due to the demand surge from customers. The demand for Australian Labradoodles in some regions has become so high, that many people are having to sit on waitlists. Reputable Breeder Depending on where you go to buy your Australian Labradoodle, you will see that their prices can fluctuate quite a lot. This usually has to do with the type of breeder that is working with the animals. A reputable breeder that has built credibility within the industry will charge more for their work. They are professional breeders who put effort into ensuring the health of their animals and the satisfaction of the customers — but it comes at a price. An amateur breeder or puppy mill will charge a fraction of this cost. However, there are a number of issues with getting an Australian Labradoodle from one of these breeders. It is easy to get conned and buy a pup that is not a genuine Australian Labradoodle — with an American Labradoodle sharing many of the same qualities. In addition, a reputable breeder will take steps to ensure the long-term health of your Australian Labradoodle. Not only are the dogs kept in safe and humane conditions but they will be bred to prevent future health issues. These pups are known to develop hip dysplasia — a common hereditary disease for the breed. Reputable breeders run tests on their dogs and only use those that have healthy hips, which greatly lowers the chances of the disease developing. Size Australian Labradoodles come in a few different sizes — standard, miniature, and toy. The reason for this is that these pups originate from the poodle, which can also be seen in these size variations. This can influence the price of an Australian Labradoodle quite a lot. In general, Australian Labradoodles that are small and toy-sized will have a marked-up price — sometimes costing double the amount. This is what you can expect to pay for an Australian Labradoodle based on its size. However, this also has to do with demand. A lot of people are more than willing to pay extra for a miniature or toy variation and breeders mark up the price because of this. These pups have three different types of coats — curly, wavy, and flat. In general, each type is known for being hypoallergenic and hardly sheds at all. For people with dog allergies, the Australian Labradoodle is one of the few breeds that they can buy, which increases the demand for these pups. Although each coat has hypoallergenic qualities, curly coats are highly-regarded for shedding even less than the other options. With that being said, an Australian Labradoodle with a curly coat tends to fetch a higher price, as people are willing to spend more for it. Professional and skilled breeders will work specifically with Australian Labradoodles that have curly coats for this very reason. In addition to coat types, we also need to consider that Australian Labradoodles have unique hair colors and patterns. A lot of this comes from the careful mixing of additional breeds such as the Irish Water Spaniel, which creates a dynamic and unique coat aesthetic. Australian Labradoodles that have rare hair colors and patterns can often be seen sold at a higher price. Labradoodles are intelligent dogs and enjoy playing games and playing with a variety of toys. Australian Labradoodles may benefit from a monthly subscription to a dog toy box because they can get bored easily and will most likely appreciate a fresh set of toys. Additional Costs to Factor In Make sure to include a budget for unexpected or occasional care items. Sometimes, your Australian Labradoodle can get into an accident, or you might require pet-sitting or boarding services if you plan to be away from home for more than a day. Many Australian Labradoodles also benefit from obedience training classes or one-on-one sessions with a professional dog trainer. If you live in an apartment or condominium, you may need to start paying a pet fee. Some buildings require an annual pet fee or a one-time fee. You can cut down on your budget in practical ways by making smart choices with the products you use. For example, you can always request cheaper alternatives or generic brands of medications from your veterinarian. Also, be wary of pet food brands that use fancy word choices to make their products sound more appealing. Make sure to check and compare ingredient lists. There are some occasions when a premium food brand and a more budget-friendly brand share similar ingredients. Saving Money on Australian Labradoodle Care You can save on costs by finding a good balance between purchasing high-quality products and generic products. You can also find discounts if you choose subscription options. Many pet food brands and pet supply retailers offer discounts if you sign up for monthly shipments of food and toys. Conclusion Overall, you can expect to pay a couple of thousands of dollars on initial costs for an Australian Labradoodle. You can expect to pay a couple hundred dollars more if you include pet insurance, pet sitting or dog walking fees, and professional grooming. You can experience some savings by looking for discount opportunities and making smart pet supply purchases. Featured Image Credit: litthouse, Pixabay Written by Jessica Kim Author Jessica is a freelance writer who spends most of her day researching and writing while her fluffy Cavapoo, Nora, naps beside her. As a dog mom, she understands the special connection that pet parents have with their pets. So, she loves sharing helpful information that people can use to better understand their pets. When she isn't writing, you may find her walking dogs, tending to her plant babies, or drinking her nth cup of coffee.Read more Advertisement. PRA-prcd occurs as a result of degeneration of both rod and cone type Photoreceptor Cells of the Retina , which are important for vision in dim and bright light, respectively. Evidence of retinal disease in affected dogs can first be seen on an Electroretinogram around 1. The rod type cells are affected first and affected dogs will initially have vision deficits in dim light night blindness and loss of peripheral vision. Over time affected dogs continue to lose night vision and begin to show visual deficits in bright light. Other signs of progressive retinal atrophy involve changes in reflectivity and appearance of a structure behind the retina called the Tapetum that can be observed on a veterinary eye exam. Although there is individual and breed variation in the age of onset and the rate of disease progression, the disease eventually progresses to complete blindness in most dogs. Other inherited disorders of the eye can appear similar to PRA-prcd. Genetic testing may help clarify if a dog is affected with PRA-prcd or another inherited condition of the eye. Affected dogs are typically identified before 2 months of age with a combination of marked skeletal malformation particularly in the front limbs and severe vision deficits. As these puppies grow, forelimb dwarfism becomes evident and the forelimbs become severely bowed resulting in abnormal joint development of the elbow putting dogs at risk for early-onset arthritis. Owners of affected dogs may also notice abnormal, dome-shaped skulls. The ocular abnormalities of affected dogs range from mild to severe. Abnormal development of the retina, retinal detachment, and cataracts are common and frequently result in blindness or severe vision deficits. A DNA variant in the RSPO2 gene, which functions in hair follicle development, results in the production of furnishings in multiple breeds and is found in all wire-haired dogs. Due to the nature of our program and careful attention to the development of each puppy, they are usually reserved before they are born. For your convinience, we accept the following means of payment: cash at the time of your puppy pickup Venmo and Zelle you can use our phone number or email address texasdoodles gmail. Therefore, if, for whatever reason you do not receive a puppy from the litter you made a reservation for, or you are unable to take the puppy home at the time of puppy pickup, your deposit will transfer to the next litter of your choice. It is your responsibility to let us know which litter you are interested in and you would like your name to be added to. The adoption price of your Authentic Multigenerational Australian Labradoodle includes the following: 1. Microchip 2. De-worming and Age-Appropriate Vaccinations 3. Important Puppy Care Information .A Lifetime of Support pertaining to questions you might have regarding your Authentic Multigenerational Australian Labradoodle .Puppy Gift bag: Snuggle Puppy Toy with the scent of their litter mates and parents. Visit our store! Prices Now that you have seen our Australian Labradoodle puppies and want to see what is available visit the available puppies page or if you arent ready right now visit the f uture litter page. If you what to see what more of my Australian Labradoodles look like, visit our photo gallery. I am sure you are wondering what they cost. The price of Australian Labradoodles or American Labradoodles can vary greatly amongst breeders, generations, and types of Labradoodles. A breeder that does not put any time or money into caring for their dogs and puppies or does not spend any money on health testing will have the ability to sell puppies cheaply. Is it cheap when you get a puppy with a bad temperament, shedding coat, or health issues? Your puppy comes with: Microchipped with application and Tag Current vaccinations and worming Day trail Pet Insurance from Trupanion note: must be activated within 24 hours of adopting your pooch Spay-Neuter contract required Puppy certificate for registration with the ALAA. We only feed our dogs top-quality dog food. This ensures healthy skin and coat. It also ensures proper growth and nutrition from the balance of various vitamins, proteins, and fats. Information on how to care for your new puppy, potty training, feeding, grooming, etc. A lifetime of continued customer support There is no price difference for gender. Both males and females make great family pets. Payments can be made in the following ways: You can email us for an invoice or select the Buy NOW buttons below. The amount below reflects a convenience fee included. Puppy Reservation Fee.

They are also known for their distinctive "bat ears" and squishy faces, compact and muscular body and a broad head with a flat forehead. They come in a wide range of colors, patterns and sizes which makes them appealing to different tastes. French Bulldogs can be found in colors such as blue, lilac, and merle, which are considered to be rare and unique colors. At Country Club Frenchies, we are a reputable and responsible breeder based in Georgia, dedicated to breeding quality French Bulldogs. We have strict breeding practices in place and only breed dogs that meet certain health standards. We are transparent about our breeding practices and are happy to provide information about the parents of our puppies, as well as any relevant health certificates. We have a wide variety of French Bulldog puppies for sale, with a variation of colors including blues, lilacs, merles and tri-colors. Our French Bulldogs are well socialized and have great personalities, easy to train, and make great companions. We also offer stud services for other reputable breeders in Georgia. We understand that bringing a French Bulldog into your home is a big decision and we are happy to provide all the necessary information about French Bulldog care, training and health. Our dogs receive the best care and nutrition, and we also provide information about genetics and how to keep your French Bulldog healthy. We also believe in the option of adoption, and we encourage people to consider adopting French Bulldogs from shelters and rescues, who are waiting for a loving home. French Bulldogs are low maintenance and don't require a lot of exercise or grooming, which makes them a great option for people who lead busy lifestyles. If you're interested in bringing a French Bulldog into your home, please visit our website www. You can gain further insights about us by exploring our informative blog posts. Our primary objective is to assist you in locating the appropriate French Bulldog puppy for sale in your neighborhood History of French Bulldog French Bulldogs are considered one of the most popular dog breeds in the United States and around the world. They are known for their affectionate and playful personalities and are often kept as companion animals. The breed is a descendant of the English Bulldog, which was brought to France by English lacemakers. The French Bulldog was then developed by crossing the English Bulldog with local small breeds, such as the Terrier, to create a smaller, more delicate version of the English Bulldog. During the 19th century, French Bulldogs were used for bull-baiting and dog fighting. They quickly gained popularity among the upper class in France, especially in Paris, where they were considered a symbol of luxury and elegance. In the late 19th century, French Bulldogs were brought to the United States by American tourists who fell in love with the breed while visiting France. Temperament of Frenchies The temperament of a French Bulldog is generally described as affectionate, playful, and sociable. They are known to be good with children and other pets and make great companion animals. They are also known for their intelligence and trainability, which makes them easy to train and manage. French Bulldogs are very loyal to their owners, and they have a strong desire to be close to their family. They have a playful nature, and they love to play and interact with their owners. French Bulldogs are known for their expressive personalities, and they are known to be very vocal. They are known to make a variety of noises, including grunts, snores, and snorts, which can be quite endearing. They are also known for their sense of humor and their ability to make their owners laugh. One of the most striking characteristics of French Bulldogs is their easy going nature. They are known to be adaptable and easy to live with, which makes them great family pets. They are also known to be relatively low maintenance, as they do not require a lot of exercise or grooming. Meet Coco! She is a French Bulldog looking for her perfect companion. This amazing gal is AKC registered, vet checked, vaccinated, wormed, plus the breeder provides a 1 year genetic health guarantee. She is super social and is being raised with children that play with her daily. Her momma is Suzanne. Coco is ready to brighten all your days with kisses.

They are outgoing, active and affectionate companions who have a lot of energy and love making their owner happy. They have strong retrieving instincts as they were bred to be gun dogs, so they love both soft toys and diving into bodies of water. It is highly unusual for the puppy's owner to care for them during this time and is best left to a responsible, reputable breeder. Your puppy's body will double in weight as their muscles, organs and bones develop. Nutrition During the neonatal stage, your Labrador puppy will get most of their nutrition from their mother's milk. At around 4 weeks you may wish to introduce a mush of minced protein such as beef, but always consult your vet first before changing your puppy's diet at this stage. Health During this time it is important to monitor your Lab for any infections, diseases or birth defects. Puppies are unable to urinate or defecate by themselves initially, so their mother helps them but may additionally require your assistance. Keep your vet's contact details close by and educate yourself thoroughly on this stage of puppy development. By the end of this period, your puppy will be mobile and will explore the world mouth first — be sure to keep choking hazards and toxic foods out of their reach. Behaviour During most of this time your Labrador puppy will be asleep or inactive, but they will soon be playing with their brothers and sisters. After weeks they will go through as much sensory development as a human baby does in a few months. It is important to avoid disturbing the puppies' mother as she will be likely be protective, but some interaction with the young pups is normal so they become used to human touch. This is a formative time for your puppy and will be when they learn to walk, play, bite, hold their bladder, and interact with others. You will soon notice their attentiveness to you and their intense love of play — many Labs keep this caring and fun attitude for their whole lives if you foster it. Nutrition During the weaning stage, you should slowly introduce into their diet a nutritionally complete dog food which is appropriate to your Labrador's large size and young age. Labs are notoriously greedy and will quickly gobble down food and snatch treats from hands. You should familiarise yourself with lists of toxic foods and plants to avoid and hide as your puppy will soon find ways to get into forbidden snacks found only in bins. Labradors puppies instinctively like to 'dig' inside their water bowls so much of their water will end up on the ground. Make sure to get your puppy used to touching inside their small ears as they are prone to ear infections and will need regular checkups. Behaviour Due to the changes in their environment, your Labrador puppy will likely be under a significant amount of stress. It's important that you provide lots of attention and positive reinforcement for good behaviour at this time to establish boundaries early. Labradors are eager to love anyone but can be overbearing, so you should introduce them to a number of different people and environments so that they are not overwhelmed with excitement later in life. PUPPY By the time your Labrador Retriever reaches puppyhood their personality will be well developed and you will have established a loving, social friend who wants to maximise time with you and others. Your Labrador puppy will do well socially and behaviourally from puppy training classes as long as treats are involved. Nutrition Your Labrador puppy's diet should be based around a high quality, nutritionally complete puppy food. You may also wish to introduce them to fresh, lean raw meat — however, don't feed your puppy any meat you would not feed to a fellow human being. Bloat is potentially fatal but can be combatted by feeding your dog two smaller meals per day, a habit you should start while they are a puppy. A rough guide is that they should exercise for minutes per day and less after 5 years when many lose their appetite for long marathons of activity. Your pup will need brushing every few days, with more frequent grooming during seasonal changes to combat shedding. Bathing should be infrequent as this can damage the waterproofing of their coats, however, you should wash them after swimming or rolling in muck. After around 8 weeks your puppy will be due for some vaccinations, so they will need a checkup at the vet and to arrange for boosters after that. Studies showed that dogs supplemented with a diet of bovine colostrum had a quicker and stronger immune system response to CDV vaccine as compared to dogs fed a control diet. Colostrum supplemented dogs maintained a higher antibody level even after 40 weeks A diet supplemented with Colostrum helps bridge the immunity gap in puppies that occurs between 3 weeks and 5 months of age. Behaviour Do not be complacent with training your Labrador puppy — almost all are very gentle and well behaved, but this does not mean that training is unnecessary. Labs are very loving and patient with all that they meet, but they often do not know their own size. To combat this, they should be trained in how to act around small dogs and children to avoid intimidation or accidental injury. They will also benefit from obedience training to drop things from their mouths, avoid rushing across busy streets and make sure they come when called. Recommended Articles. Following the Labrador feeding chart by age will give you a rough idea of how much to feed your puppy. Labradors are known for their playfulness, and sweet disposition, and are good at fetch which is why you should provide them with the best nutrition to support their growth. Ensure that the food contains the right amounts of protein, carbs, fat, and vitamins. You should avoid feeding your Labrador puppy too much food as they are prone to joint issues, but also avoid feeding them less food as they will be malnourished and not reach their growth milestones. Continue reading to understand how much to feed a Labrador puppy. The amount of food that your Labrador puppy should eat depends on a combination of certain factors such as activity level, weight, type, and brand of food. Heavier and bigger puppies need to eat more food than smaller puppies, and dogs that have active lives will need more calories than those living sedentary life. Fortunately, all dog food contains a feeding guideline on the packaging to get you started. It is important that you create and maintain a feeding schedule for your puppy so that they can maintain a healthy weight and develop good habits. Consult your pet nutritionist or vet, to learn more about how much food you should give your specific Labrador. Labrador Feeding Chart By Age A Labrador can be fed between one and six cups of food depending on their level of activity, age, and type of food. The amount will differ from one puppy to the other as every puppy has there own requirements. Therefore, you should follow a feeding guideline that is indicated in the dog food brands or the one designed by your vet. As a Labrador owner, it is important to understand that the nutritional requirements of your puppy are different at each stage as they grow. Therefore, adult and puppy dogs should be trained to eat the correct amount at the right schedule. Ensure that you keep a Labrador puppy feeding chart with you. Calculating the Resting Energy Requirement RER of your puppy and doubling it can help you get the right number of calories to feed them. Feed your puppy a little amount, in the beginning, to ensure that they are ready to eat. If they are not ready, do not force the food on them. Be patient with your puppy and they will be on puppy food soon. The puppy will be relying less on the milk. When your puppy starts eating all the food you offer them, you can reduce the amount of water and increase the food amount. The puppy will start becoming active and start exploring away from the mother as they no longer rely on the mother. By the end of the week into week seven, the puppy will be able to eat just puppy food. Ensure that you feed them dry food that is full of healthy protein. They should be eating three to four times per day and need about 2 cups of food. Avoid free feeding the puppy as it may be hard to know exactly how much they are eating. Create a feeding schedule as early as possible and this will help them develop good habits in the future. Put the food out for only 10 to 15 minutes and take the bowl away if they do not finish. This can be tricky if you are working but it is important that you maintain their feeding schedule as this is a developmental stage. Three meals per day will help your growing puppy develop their digestive system and ensure that they are getting their nutrition. This is also the beginning of the teething stage and they will be biting a lot of things including hard dog food and chew toys. They should eat about two cups of food distributed over three meals. But you should still maintain feeding them two cups of food but can reduce the mealtimes to twice per day. Watch out for the amount of food your puppy eats to avoid them gaining weight. Also, ensure that they are getting enough exercise to burn off the food. So, you should transition them to adult food. Ensure that the switching process is done slowly to avoid causing vomiting and diarrhea to your puppy. Your Labrador can be fed once per day now and the amount reduced to about two cups of food. Understanding Labrador Puppy Nutritional Needs If you stick to feeding your Labrador high-quality food, be assured that they are getting all the necessary nutrients. However, it is useful to know the types of nutrients that they need and the ingredients to watch out for. Carbohydrates — healthy carbs are necessary for providing energy for your puppy. Sources like barley, rice, and oatmeal are great. Healthy carbs can also be found in veggies such as sweet potatoes, peas, and lentils. Fiber — it helps regulate the digestive system of your puppy and helps the stool become healthier and firm. Sources include spinach, chicory root, and beet pulp. Sources include fish oils, fish, canola oils, and fish. Vitamins and Minerals — are needed for improving the immune system which helps in protecting your puppy from diseases. Veggies and real fruits like cranberries and blueberries are great sources. The frequency of feeding your Labrador depends mostly on their age. Puppies need to eat three to four times per day while senior and adult Labradors can eat one to two times per day. Labrador is a breed that is motivated by food, meaning that the chance of them turning down food is low. Given their nature, it can be difficult to figure out whether they are really hungry or just food obsessed. Since they cannot regulate their eating habits, it is important that you develop a feeding schedule to prevent them from gaining weight. Both types of food provide your dog with the best nutrition they need to grow and develop. Also, check the label on the packaging and make sure that it contains the perfect balance of protein, fats, and carbohydrates. Kibble is cheaper than wet foods and stores easily as it does not require refrigeration. It also helps clean the teeth by removing tartar and buildup when your puppy chews it. Wet food also provides balanced and complete nutrition for your Labrador. It provides more hydration to your puppy as it contains high moisture content. However, wet food needs to be put in the fridge once opened otherwise it will go bad. Some dog owners mix wet food and kibble to give their dogs the best of both worlds. Therefore, most premium dog food brands have different specially formulated puppy food. Puppies can be fed with puppy food until they are about 12 to 15 months old then transition to adult dog food. When transitioning your dog from puppy food to adult dog food remember to introduce the feed gradually for about seven to ten days by mixing small amounts of the adult dog food with the puppy food. Decrease the puppy food gradually every day with a simultaneous increase in adult dog food. This will helps the pup o adjust to the new meal easily. Experienced Labrador Retriever owners will tell you that not all puppies eat a lot. Studies also have indicated that puppies eat more when fed with other puppies or in a group. When the puppy gets to a new home, they might go off the food for the first few days. They might eat a few kibbles and then leave it. Your puppy may also prefer to eat from your hand and not the bowl. However, call your vet if your puppy refuses to eat for more than four hours. Call immediately if your puppy looks unwell. There are a few reasons you need to keep an eye on because they indicate serious problems: Your pup neither drink nor eat Diarrhea. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. As we all know too well, what we put in our belly has a huge impact on our health, vitality, length and quality of life. They have to strike a fine balance between getting enough nutrients to grow and avoiding an over-abundance that can lead to abnormal growth and disabling conditions. In this article you will learn precisely how to feed your puppy. What they can eat, what they should not, how many times you should feed them each day, basic information on home-made diets and the pros and cons of various commercial dog foods. The majority of Labrador owners feed their puppy kibble. Kibble is ground meal, shaped into dried biscuit-like pellets that are extremely convenient to buy, store and feed, providing everything a puppy needs in one easy to handle product. All the major brands carry a range of kibble and many are specifically formulated to suit the precise needs of puppies. For our recommendations of the best puppy food for labs, please read our article on: The Best Food for Labrador Puppies. Good breeders will supply you with all the information you need to feed your new puppy and you should follow this advice. Puppies almost always get upset tummies during a change of diet. The stress of moving to a new home is enough to deal with without them potentially having tummy upset on top. So try to avoid this. But expect your puppy to get diarrhea after such a sudden change. What Can Puppies Eat? With a bewildering choice of different puppy foods available, what to feed your puppy may not be the easiest decision to make. You Can Feed Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is ground up food, formed into pellets and dried for easy storage and convenience. It is a specially formulated, complete and balanced diet, containing everything a puppy needs to grow and be healthy. Many people believe kibble is the best way to feed a puppy, with it being so easy to buy, store and feed while containing every nutrient a puppy needs in the right proportions. Wet, Complete Puppy Foods Are An Option As the name suggests, complete wet dog food is complete and balanced, meaning nothing should be fed in combination. Everything needed is included in this one food. Complete wet foods come in individual pouches or tins with one pouch or tin containing one single serving. In the main these foods are low in nutrition, contain a high amount of cheap fillers, by-products and water and need mixing with a biscuit to give them some substance and to make them more complete. Because the food is such low quality, you have to feed a lot of it. And what goes in, must come out. This type of feeding was popular decades ago and I do remember my parents feeding our first dogs this way, but most people have moved on from this and are feeding their dogs in better ways now. Raw Food, BARF And Home-Made Diets Raw feeding is a diet that consists of mostly raw meat, edible bones and animal organs, though most practitioners also mix in small portions of fruit, veg and selected other foodstuffs. There are many people feel strongly that this is the best possible way to feed a dog. But I would caution most people that to feed this diet successfully, you need to do A LOT of research, gain a lot of knowledge and truly understand a dogs nutritional needs to make sure they get exactly what they need in the right amounts. Many people wonder if they can feed their puppy human foods, anything found in the fridge or larder. Furthermore, there are many human foods that are toxic to dogs that you should avoid at all costs. Too much of some nutrients can be bad in itself, but also prevent the absorption and use of other nutrients too. So supplementing a balanced diet is a bad thing to do. Can You Give Puppies Milk? Assuming you get your puppy at the recommended 8 weeks, they will have been fully weaned before you bring them home. Many puppies are intolerant of cows milk and drinking it leads to an upset tummy and diarrhea so you would do best to avoid giving your puppy any milk at all. One exception is for very young puppies under 6 weeks of age. When we have newborn puppies at our house we sometimes need to supplement and use Esbilac Milk Supplemen t. However, if you have a very young puppy that you think may need supplementing please first consult with your veterinarian. Are They Necessary? You will likely be feeding your puppy a commercially available complete and balanced dog food, in which case you certainly should not supplement their food. Supplementing this will mean too much of one or more things, making it unbalanced which can actually lead to harm. But an excess amount of calcium in the diet of a Lab puppy can lead to skeletal development problems. So adding a calcium supplement to an already complete diet can actually do more harm than good. There may also be times your vet advises you to do so. But if feeding raw, you should know more about nutrition than I do. This is a hard question to answer and sadly I cannot give you a definite quantity or weight to feed them each day. Puppies grow at different rates, some are more active than others and there can be large differences between metabolisms too. However… The biggest determining factor is how concentrated the nutrients and calories are in the brand of food you feed them. High quality foods are nutrient rich and give a puppy all they need from quite small amounts of food. But cheaper brands are full of low quality and nutritionally empty fillers that mean a puppy needs considerably more to get what they need. Start by feeding your puppy according to the guidelines on the label of the puppy food you buy for them. Then see how their body develops. Puppies should not be fat! But at the other end of the scale if they start to look and feel a little slim, up their portion sizes a little. The guidelines on the food you buy are just that…guidelines. You might also be interested in:. Made with real meat and no artificial colors or flavors how much should a lab eat? Allergies Labs can also have allergies. Some dogs may be allergic to wheat, macadamia nuts, etc. It can manifest as a runny nose, high volumes of shedding, rashes on the skin, and so on. Different dietary needs are crucial, especially if they display allergy symptoms. Avoid all types of human foods. You can give your lab puppy supplements You can get great quality adult dog food and puppy kibble from companies like Royal Canin Labrador Retriever, Blue Buffalo, Canidae Grain-Free, etc. Only adult food must be given to labrador retrievers who have crossed 1. Your puppy needs 4 small meals consisting of half a cup of food per meal till he is 2 months old. From 2 to 6 months, he needs 3 meals daily consisting of 1 cup of food per meal. From 6 months onwards , you can give your puppy 2 meals daily of 2 cups of dog food per meal. Is This A Problem? Yes, this is a major problem! Fat dogs are adorable but also extremely unhealthy. An adult labrador retriever should weigh at most pounds. Labs that are fatter than this stand at the risk of obesity, arthritis , and other lifelong diseases. Refrain from feeding your labrador too many dog treats. Onions and garlic: surprisingly, anything in the onion and garlic family is incredibly toxic to dogs. Meat with bones: if not chewed properly, sharp edges can rupture the throat, stomach lining, intestines, and other parts of the digestive tract. Other human foods and beverages to avoid giving your dog are alcohol, sugar, citric fruits, and anything with caffeine. Your labrador retriever should weigh between 55 to 70 pounds at full adulthood. Male labs are heavier than female labs, so they can fall on either side of the optimal weight spectrum. Some healthy treats for your labrador retriever are cut fruits and vegetables. Carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, apples, bananas, and berries strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, etc. Dogs also love peanut butter! Veggies dipped in peanut butter also make a great snack for your dog. This is entirely up to you as dog owners. If you have the time and patience to cook meals for your dog, go for it. Store-bought food is easier and is filled with the right nutritional requirements for your lab puppy. On the other hand, with the right recipe, home-cooked food works, too. What Should I Do? A dog growling at you when you go near his food bowl is most commonly a trauma response or a way to protect his food. We often see this with rescues. House training your lab puppy is equally important to avoid food aggression. Labrador Retrievers get piddly after their meals. Dog owners must take out their lab puppy as frequently as they eat sometimes even more often to let their energy out and adult labradors less frequently. A lab puppy needs a ton of exercise. The amount of kibble you should feed your Labrador puppy will vary depending on their age, weight, and activity level. A good rule of thumb is to start with cups of kibble daily and adjust as needed. Best Dog Food For Lab Puppies: The best dog foods for lab puppies include those that are high in protein and low in fillers. The food you should feed a black lab puppy is the same as for any other Labrador puppy. A chocolate lab puppy should be fed the same food as for any other Labrador puppy. A 2-year-old chocolate lab should eat about cups of kibble daily. You should stop feeding puppy food to your Labrador at around months of age. At this point, their growth plates will have closed, and they will no longer need the extra nutrients found in puppy food. Labradors live for years. They start to slow down around 7 and may develop some health problems in their senior years. You should also increase their exercise level. Lab breeders feed their dogs high-quality dog food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. A lab puppy should drink about 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. This amount may increase as they get older and more active. A labrador needs at least 30 minutes of exercise per day. This can be a combination of walking, running, and playing. Golden labs live for years. Chocolate labs live for years same like labs of any color. Labradors lose their baby teeth between 3 and 6 months of age. You can start to transition your puppy to eating twice a day at around 6 months of age. By the time they are 1 year old, they should eat only once daily. You should stop feeding your large breed puppy food at around 18 months of age. Why Are Labs So Hungry? Labradors are a very active breed of dog, and they need a lot of calories to fuel their energy levels. They are also prone to gaining weight, so keep a close eye on their food intake About The Author Shradha Kabra Shradha is a seasoned writer at Labradorandyou. Her experience as a pet owner and dog enthusiast drives her to create meticulously researched and fact-checked content, offering valuable insights on Labrador training, grooming, and health. Each article reflects Shradha's passion and dedication, enriched by personal experiences with her beloved Labradors, Tom, and Kurt. Whether exploring breed-specific training techniques or providing product reviews, Shradha ensures Labrador owners receive the most accurate, up-to-date, and trustworthy information, aimed at enhancing their companions' health and happiness. Remember, Labs do not have a natural food intake regulator so you will need to monitor them with portion control. Using a cheaper brand is a poor option at half the price. You will use twice as much and you will have to clean up larger amounts of waste in your yard. To allow for an accurate control of body weight and growth rate, this amount of food can be dispensed over 3 meals per day. After 5 months of age, the feeding regularity can be reduced to two meals per day with the commensurate increase in food quantity. The amount of food a Labrador puppy requires will increase then level out during first 14 months of their life. At months, their bone density is increasing and their growth plates are set. We do not recommend desexing you pup until at least 3 years of age. This allows for an appropriate development and supply of hormone which in turn produces proper bone, muscle and vital organ development. Table foods dispensed randomly to dogs are not nutritionally balanced. We do not offer our dogs table food at all. There will be no problems if you are feeding a puppy with a homemade diet but it should be prepared from prescribed recipes that are nutritionally complete and balanced. Diets consisting of an unplanned and indiscriminate mixture of human foods particularly including carbohydrates will likely result in obesity and even dietary-induced disease. When you Lab reaches 14months of age, it should be given an adult food that contains less energy and calcium. This will decrease the risk of obesity and orthopaedic conditions. And do not feed them coffee or tea as they can contain caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline. These toxic substances can dangerously affect the heart and nervous system. Onions, garlic, raisins and grapes can be severely toxic in labradors. Raw meat is potential source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria for your puppy. Eggs yokes are an excellent source of protein. Raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin a B vitamin. This can, in extreme cease, lead to skin and coat problems. Liver contains higher levels of protein, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. Raw liver can be a source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria. Excessive amounts of liver can cause Vitamin A toxicity. Raw bone chewing will control tartar buildup on a pups teeth. However, bone chewing can cause intestinal blockages and perforations. Never use cooked bones. Commercial Puppy Foods Most commercial puppy foods are designated for small, medium, large and giant breeds. This designation can be found on the label. Puppies of medium sized breeds are less than '25 kg fully grown adult body weight'. A full grown and lean Labrador will usually weigh between 25kg and 45kg. We feed our dogs at the 'lower' level of the recommended range. The 'Hills Body Fat Index' is a very helpful body shape indicator. The same food as the bitch You should feed your new puppy with the same brand of food as the bitch received during lactation. From 2 weeks into pregnancy, our expectant mothers are fed 'Royal Canin Labrador Puppy' food. Introducing a new brand of food If you are wanting to introduce a new brand of food to your puppy, then blend it gradually with the existing brand in increasing amounts over 3 days. This should prevent food rejection and any kind of gastric upset. It is best to choose a diet designed for large breed puppies. Selected commercial feeds should contain a limited percentage of filler compounds. Pawlinglabs uses Royal Canin Labrador as our preferred option. Growing labradors Labrador pups have a very steep growth curve, and their total daily energy needs do increase as they grow. Calculate the amount of puppy food that will satisfy that need. The feeding guidelines on the commercial pet food label provides an estimated quantity of feed for several different ranges in body size. These instructions will give you an estimated starting point for the particular brand. Medium or large? Medium breeds should be transitioned to an adult diet by 12 months of age, while large breeds between 14 — 18 months of age. Mature female labradors are medium and weight approx kg. Mature males are large and weight approx kg. Their calcium and energy content should not exceed that level recommended by a registered nutritionalist. Sound skeletal development Sound skeletal development in labradors is produced by the interaction of genetic, environmental, and nutritional factors. The phase prior to weaning and the growth phase, up to 14 months are integral to sound skeletal structure. Don't take your young pup on extended distance walks and certainly not 'running' until at least 18mths of age. You must avoid stairs and slippery floors for the same reasons. Their growth plates are set at about mths of age. Feeding and Overfeeding Large breeds like Labradors are the most susceptible to skeletal disease. Feed consumption, nutrients balance and feeding methods influence our ability to produce sound skeletal development and eliminate skeletal disease. Appropriate food consumption and nutrition plays a critical role in bone development. Overfeeding will not increase or benefit the growth rate of young and growing labrador puppies. And it does not correlate with optimal adult size. However, it does increase the risk of skeletal abnormalities. The vast majority of skeletal disorders occur in large breeds including labradors and they are associated with consumption of table food and an excessive intake of a commercial food and supplementation. The large breeds like labradors are limited in their ability to cope with an excess of minerals such as calcium. The result of this over consumption is abnormal bone development and skeletal disorders. Nutritional management will be critical in the to prevention of bone and joint diseases. In most cases, skeletal disease can prevented by appropriate quantities of feed in a regulated diet with optimal nutrient levels. A complete and balanced commercial diet is essential. Dietary deficiencies will be of little concern if your labrador pup is fed with a complete and balanced commercial diet. Brands like Eukanuba and Royal Canin are specifically formulated for young, growing labradors. There is real potential for harm by over feeding and giving additional supplementation. Housing safety and activity levels Housing safety and activity levels are under the your influence. Nutrition is also under your control and it is the single most important factor affecting the development of the musculoskeletal system. Energy, protein, and calcium are the critical nutritional components affecting skeletal development. However, if they are given in excess, they will be detrimental to normal bone and joint growth. Most pet owners feed commercial dog food. These prepared diets are balanced and complete. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. The source of protein matters when considering a high-quality diet. FATS The rest of the diet should be made up of fats, carbs, and vitamins. Labs need to have a correct protein -to-fat ratio, where protein takes the lead. Dogs tend to convert fat into glucose, so this is an important source of energy. Dogs rely mostly on protein and fats, but carbs are necessary. That said, a low carb diet is best for puppies. However, you still need the right percentage of carbs, since this gives your dog the sensation of being full. These include starches, fibers, and sugars. Try to opt for more complex carbs like starchy grain and veggies because these are easier to digest. Your Lab puppy will thrive when his or her diet includes: Vitamin B12 especially during puppy development , Vitamins A and E, C, Vitamin D, phosphorus, and calcium, Potassium Each of these required vitamins and minerals contributes to a healthy, happy, and energetic puppy. They also help offset issues like obesity. Vitamins A and E are important because they help your dog burn calories and promote eye and skin health. Vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus, on the other hand, are part of a trifecta that works to strengthen teeth and bones. Potassium is a heart health-preserver. Labs with poor genetics are especially prone to orthopedic issues. Osteoarthritis and hip dysplasia are common health problems for this breed. Glucosamine, an amino-sugar, together with chondroitin sulfate, helps replace and support naturally degrading cartilage during old age. Recently,"grain-free" foods are being championed as a preferred and even high-quality form of dog food. That's, not the whole story. An investigation launched by the FDA revealed that there are potential links between a form of canine heart disease and grain-free foods. So far, researchers have provided an update to this researchers have provided an update to this research staring that the issue may not just be grain-free diets. Grain-free may be part of other trends knows as "BEG"- boutique companies. Puppy diets don't' need to be complicated. They also don't need to include ingredients that humans might enjoy. Enjoyment doesn't necessarily bring any nutritional value to your puppy's development. Keep it simple, using the guidelines for fats, proteins, and carbs above and don't shy away from food with grains in them. It's not their presence that's a problem it's often the ratio. There shouldn't be more carbs or grains than protein. Nor does including only legumes, seeds, lentils, or chickpeas as the primary ingredients make the food more superior. It's perfectly healthy to include complex carb sources like starchy rice and other grains. Grain-free isn't and shouldn't be a qualifying factor for your choice in puppy food. Feeding Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is dried, pelleted food that stores well is easy to eat, and is pre-formulated with everything your puppy needs to thrive and grow in his early developmental months. There are plenty of popular brands that don't measure up to the Snowy Pines standard. That's why it's so vital for you to learn how to read puppy food labels. Puppies should stick with "puppy stage" food, while adults should stick to bags marked "adults. Instead, your dog should have regular bowel movements, allowing them to absorb all the nutrients available. You should also keep in mind that caloric intake is calculated a little differently for puppies. Kibble diets are measured by how many calories the proteins, fats, and carbs represent for each gram. For puppies, this should be 3. Sticking to these ratios will help ensure your kibble choice is a healthy one. It's also important to note that kibble calories are often higher when compared to wet food. If it's high-quality wet food, it won't have as much fat to preserve it, which means fewer calories. You may have to supplement with dry food, especially if you're trying to keep the calories of carbs, proteins, and fats in the right per-gram ratio. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. Are you wondering why your German Shepherd destroys everything when they were once your angelic-like companion? Are you regretting getting a beautiful, smart, high-energy German Shepherd at all? There are a number of reasons why your puppy might begin to destroy everything, but luckily there are steps you can take to help solve the problem and stop their destructiveness. So, why is your German Shepherd destroying everything in its sight and chewing all your stuff? The top reasons why your German Shepherd becomes destructive are a lack of the right type of exercise, not enough mental stimulation, normal puppy teething, stress or illness, separation anxiety, and acting out for attention. If your German Shepherd is suddenly destroying things when it was previously well-mannered, then there could be an underlying medical issue or emotional problem causing the sudden onset of this behavior. Get your dog booked in for a thorough medical examination from your veterinarian to rule out medical reasons your dog is destructive. They are a highly intelligent breed that requires an owner willing to invest time with them. Consider why your German Shepherd might turn to destroy things so you can understand how to help and train them to stop. Here are some reasons why your German Shepherd is destroying everything. They are still used as herding dogs and in the military for their stamina. Your breed is a high-energy fireball who has an obedient and alert temperament by design. This means they are bred to do a job that requires them to stay physically active. German Shepherds require a large number of mental activities that keep them working their minds. Stimulate their minds using interesting mind games for German Shepherds or finding ways to keep your GSD entertained. If your German Shepherd is a puppy that has just started teething then this could be the cause of its destruction. Instead, train them early. As an alert breed, their watchful nature may cause them to become overly excited and worried about the noises to the point they become destructive. You can help them by learning their unique personality through bonding with your German Shepherd. Some owners might even fail to appreciate that the German Shepherd is an athletic working dog that thrives on a variety of activities. Why is this important? Because a tired German Shepherd is less likely to be a problem inside the home. You MUST learn how to exhaust a German Shepherd the right way to give both you and your dog a better quality of life together. Some types of illnesses that cause your German Shepherd to destroy everything can be helped through a visit to your veterinarian for medical treatments which can help their behavior issues. Never punish a stressed or ill German Shepherd or you will make their destructiveness worse and increase their levels of stress to the point they shut down. Get a vet appointment right away to see if your dog is unwell. To reduce destruction when you leave your dog alone, try to work on only leaving your dog alone for very short periods of time at first. This breed is known for attaching to one person and should their person not give them the attention they want or deserve they will certainly let them know by ruining their furniture, clothing, or electronics with destructive chewing. Maybe you think your German Shepherd is acting out and being stubborn. The German Shepherd is one of the most easily trained and obedient of all breeds—when you are present and make a plan to actually train them. Think of it like this: The German Shepherd is literally bred to walk and run for hours on end when herding and working. Can you run for hours a day to keep up with the exercise needs of your breed? If you can, then enter you and your dog in a marathon! Try some exercise that gets their body moving in unique ways and keeps them physically active. How should I exercise my destructive German Shepherd? Try a tail-teasing flirt pole to entice your dog to hone their herding behavior, or find a set of hills nearby and race your dog to the top to develop their powerful agility skills. Your German Shepherd may get into the habit of using the same walking trail, so switch it up to challenge them and keep them from getting bored. Unfortunately, many owners are away from home for long hours and are too tired when they return to engage their dogs in a mind game. But, mind games and mental stimulation are a necessity for the German Shepherd. You can, however, give their minds a way to engage with you and their environment in a positive manner! There are many types of mind games or brain games on the market. Some owners even make do-it-yourself games, while others prefer games that are premade. These reward-based strategy games mentally stimulate your dog and keep your pup from destructive boredom. The quickest way to train your German Shepherd to stop being destructive is by setting them up for success using daily obedience training. Obedience training helps engage your dog through positive, reward-based interaction that helps them learn not only basic commands but also how to listen and pay attention to you. Plus, it helps keep your German Shepherd from getting out of control. A German Shepherd who destroys things is definitely a great candidate to introduce to nose work to help them focus their natural scenting abilities. You can give your German Shepherd a course in nose work by having them search and find their food for some of their weekly meals. To start, hide the plates or bowls of their portioned meal in easy-to-find locations in one room of your house. This makes the game easy enough for an untrained puppy or older German Shepherd. After a few times of serving a meal this way, your dog begins to understand the game of nose work and will readily seek out their food by sniffing the area on their own. You can make it more challenging for them by using more than one room to hide their food or by moving outdoors to your secured backyard and hiding their plates of food. German Shepherds were bred to use their noses to find things, but in the modern world, their scent-finding abilities get neglected. This can lead to them destroying everything. Your focus should be on using these helpful ideas for German Shepherd enrichment. Chewing is natural and helps your dog release stress. Show them the right chew toy and encourage them to play with it. Instead, use a positive voice and reward them when they come to you and stop chewing your things. You can clap your hands or even whistle to get them to listen. What are the right things for German Shepherds to chew that can withstand being destroyed? Did you know…? Many dogs tend not to play with toys without their owner there, but food or treats placed inside specially-made toys encourage toy exploration. You can leave them a stuffed Extreme Kong , which is a heavy-duty chew toy you stuff with food and treats so it gets their attention. The idea is that your dog chews on it, instead of your things. Some owners like to create a safe place to leave their dogs, such as an area that has tempting items removed and put away. The gates still allow your dog to see through easily, which keeps your dog from developing too much stress when you leave them alone. Pick up items that your dog finds interesting and place them in a secure area. Some German Shepherd puppies find shoes, pillows, remotes, and even electric cables interesting enough to chew on and destroy. If loud or unusual noises stress your German Shepherd to the point they destroy things, then move them to a quieter area away from windows. Get a white noise machine to play soothing tones, or leave the TV or radio on low to help drown out the frightening sounds. Some owners also prefer to crate train their German Shepherd so they can secure them when they leave. The best way to prevent your German Shepherd from destroying everything is to not give them access to those items in the first place. You can also use a step-by-step guide to discipline your German Shepherd to get you started. You might wonder… How does play help reduce destruction? Some ideas for constructive play include: Playing catch or tug in your backyard for 15—30 minutes a day. Enroll your dog in doggy daycare or have a dog walker stop by. Find an agility course or teach your dog to catch a frisbee. Avoid spraying anti-chew deterrents Some owners resort to using anti-chew spray products to prevent their German Shepherd from chewing destructively. Instead, they may become wary of chewing anything — even the things that are safe to chew, like their toys. Never use physical punishment If you use physical punishment when your dog destroys things, you will lose their trust. They learn to fear you and can develop stress and anxiety. Especially a German Shepherd prone to destroying everything! Set aside time each day for their basic obedience skills. Want more help for your German Shepherd that destroys everything? Instead, find ways to encourage yourself through this troubling time. You and your dog both deserve Brain Training to ease your stress. And, for an easy step-by-step training plan, use a scientifically based program, Brain Training for Dogs. Remember, a big part of teaching your German Shepherd to stop destroying everything is the right training and management. Take action before it becomes too stressful for you to handle. Your sanity will thank you for it! Logically speaking, it makes sense. As a herding breed, shepherds have to be cognitively capable of problem solving to some extent in order to determine how to move all their wooly charges where they need to be. Unfortunately for us, most people who own German shepherds do not also own sheep! Dogs do chew while teething, but most chewing occurs because a dog is simply bored. Why Dogs Chew Our dogs all have the genetic code to hunt and kill prey, yes, even the tiny teacup Chihuahua believes he can catch that rabbit twice his size. Thousands of years of evolution does not simply disappear because we bred Sparky to be 2 lbs. Because our dogs survived by using their predatory drive to catch food, that drive still lingers to this day. To catch a rabbit, Sparky has to sniff around and find a trail, stalk his prey, chase, grab, rip apart, and chew up the pieces. Every dog has the genetic code to perform those steps, and even if they are not forced to catch their own food to survive your pet still enjoys doing those behaviors. Address the source of the behavior. If your dog is chewing or showing any other types of destruction it is important to ensure they are getting enough mental stimulation. There are a number of different chews that may help your dog alleviate some of that need to gnaw on something. Bully Sticks Our primary choice should be bully sticks given in moderation. Because bully sticks are capable of being gnawed on for extensive periods of time, and they are fully digestible so your pet can chew them up and eat them , your dog will tackle some of that basic instinct to bite. These are not intended for complete consumption, so if your dog breaks off chunks remove the antler pieces as they could present a choking hazard. Kong Toy Another type of work-to-eat toy that is mentally stimulating for dogs is the classic KONG toy, when used properly. Instead, fill your KONG with a mixture of pumpkin and peanut butter, and then freeze. Because the mixture is frozen it will take longer for your pup to eat, and when it melts the pumpkin keeps its texture without getting watery and making a mess. If we address the source of a behavior, and simultaneously provide an alternative to the undesired behavior, the likelihood of success is much greater. Lets use our teacup Chihuahua as an example again: if Sparky has stolen a dish rag and is chewing it when I get home, and I snatch it from him and spank him with it, there are a few different behaviors that could follow. Sparky could immediately aggress towards me, because I have activated his fight or flight instinct. Alternatively, Sparky could cower in fear, and my bond with him could potentially be damaged. Though he may not cower in fear for the rest of his life, Sparky may always show a fear of soft toys with a texture similar to that of the dishtowel, or may become fearful every time I am near the dishtowel while doing dishes or cooking. This is causing undue fear and punishment when Sparky has done nothing wrong. Sparky becomes accustomed to me angrily snatching away the dishtowel, and begins snarling anytime I come near him when he has a toy expecting the same results as the dishtowel. I used Sparky as an example because a 2 lb. German Shepherd. Though they have been domesticated, anything with teeth can bite, and when you are working with a large and potentially dangerous animal it is important to make sure that you are giving that animal proper feedback and avoiding creating dangerous behavior patterns. Why punish a behavior when the results will most likely create more problems and not even aid in a solution? Empathize with your dog, they are intelligent animals that need lots of mental stimulation to live an enriched life, and if we are not providing well enough for them they will seek it elsewhere. Rather than blaming your dog, ask yourself if you are doing enough to keep them satisfied. By preventing the problem from occurring in the first place, and giving them safe and effective alternatives, your pup will be on the road to success in no time. It is alright to let your GSD chew on its toys, but it becomes a problem when it begins to chew on your personal items like your shoes, underwear, pillows, and much more. Contents When Does the Chewing Start? A GSD starts to chew at the age of three to eight weeks. This is the time when your GSD puppy is developing teeth, a process known as teething. During the teething period , a GSD pup will chew on almost anything that it finds. This behavior is a result of extreme gum pain that is eased off when the puppy applies pressure with its gums. Biting on things with excessive force will numb the gums which will not cause irritating pain. Many owners make a mistake of letting their pup chew on things during its teething. What happens when you encourage this behavior? A GSD pup will look absolutely adorable chewing on its toys and other items, and it is almost natural for its owners to let it enjoy. However, if the puppy is not stopped, it will adopt chewing as a habit. So, how do you stop your puppy from chewing on things? How do you differentiate between good or bad chewing? Let Your Dog Chew on its Toys If your puppy likes to chew on everything that it finds on the ground, then this is a problem that should be addressed immediately. Make sure you do not scold your pup as it will trigger its destructive behavior and due to its dominant nature, it will ignore your commands. However, if you find your GSD pup chewing on your personal items, react right away. You can make this behavior stop by encouraging it to chew on its toys. Offer your GSD a soft chewable toy the one that is filled with water when it mouths one of your shoes. If your pup accepts its toy and leaves your shoe, offer it a treat or some cuddles. This way your pup will know that chewing a toy is right. You can also push your pup backward using one hand so that it knows that this behavior is not acceptable. This is the basic way of letting your dog differentiate between right and wrong. When your dog has plenty of its things to chew on, it will less likely be destructing your things. The chewing toys you choose for your puppy should be non-destructible, non-toxic, and non-swallowable. If your GSD pup is an aggressive chewer, make sure you buy both, hard and soft toys for it. The toys that are filled with water are good for less aggressive chewers. Make sure you do not over-pamper your pup by providing it with more chewing options. Keep Your Items Safe Another strategy, rather an evil one is to spray your items with an anti-chew spray. These sprays are readily available at pet shops and big stores. Anti-chew sprays are made with natural ingredients that are harmless to your pup. The taste of these sprays is bitter which irritates the puppy and keeps it away from chewing on things. Many GSD owners get too excited when they buy a puppy. Instead of becoming the pack leader by training their dog , they become overly affectionate and loving towards their pup. This behavior of owners often ruins a dog, and it starts to see itself as your friend assumes that it is equal to its owner. When a GSD pup sees you as a friend, it begins to chew on things and do whatever it feels like. The dog knows that you are its friend, and a friend cannot scold you or become your leader. This behavior gets out-of-control when the pup grows into a big sized dog. To avoid this behavior of your dog, you need to start training it at an early age. Stay calm and composed when dealing with your dog and avoid behavior problems like chewing and mouthing. Puppy-proofing means that you set your home in such a way that your puppy stays safe in it. You will need to remove toxic substances from the reach of your pup, get rid of anything that could be harmful to your pup, remove pointy, sharp, and slippery furniture or items from home, repair broken wires or open sockets, etc. Moreover, remove small items from the reach of your pup that will be appealing to it including shoes, socks, cushions, etc. When you play with a puppy, it will get tired after a few minutes and fall asleep. This is the perfect way to abstain the puppy from chewing. A GSD with bad chewing habits will sooner or later irritate you. Last Updated on September 5, by Post navigation. Veterinarian Appointment Chewing is also a way for dogs, particularly young ones, to understand the world around them. However, destructive chewing by a German Shepherd is considered abnormal and should be prevented. Chewing is necessary for a dog to properly digest its food. It helps to break down the food and increase the surface area for enzymes to aid in chemical digestion. Additionally, it assists the stomach in mechanical digestion. However, it is worth considering whether excessive chewing is beneficial for a dog. Are German Shepherds bad chewers? No, German Shepherds are not inherently bad chewers. Chewing is an instinctual behavior for them. By providing them with appropriate toys to chew on, bad habits can be avoided. Therefore, it would be incorrect to say that they are bad chewers. In fact, German Shepherds are good chewers. It is the responsibility of their owners and veterinarians to ensure that they do not develop bad habits. Chewing is generally considered a positive behavior in German Shepherds. At what age do German Shepherds stop chewing everything? A German Shepherd typically stops chewing everything by the age of 7 to 8 months, as at this point their teething issues are resolved and they have developed their essential and basic behaviors and habits. How to stop my German Shepherd from chewing everything? Dog-proof your home You need to deter your German Shepherd from destructive chewing. It can be difficult for a dog to understand the difference between chewing a toy and chewing a pillow if they were not taught the distinction as a puppy. Positive reinforcement techniques, such as rewarding the dog with a treat for exhibiting the desired behavior, can be effective in reinforcing good habits. To prevent your German Shepherd from chewing on valuable or harmful items in the house, it is important to dog-proof your home. When you first bring a German Shepherd puppy home, closely supervise them in the house to ensure they do not chew on anything they should not. Introduce your German Shepherd to the distinction between what they can and cannot chew on. It may take a few months for these efforts to take full effect. Remember that your German Shepherd needs clear and consistent rules. This creates a sense of security and comfort, which can help prevent destructive chewing in adulthood. Provide Appropriate Chewing Toys Chewing is a natural tendency for dogs and should not be discouraged. However, destructive chewing should be prevented or addressed through providing alternative activities. According to professionals in dog care, providing your dog with toys like bones to chew on as an alternative to valuable items can promote healthy stimulation and maintain their interest. Additionally, it is recommended to regularly switch out the toys to prevent habituation, and reduce the likelihood of the dog chewing on inappropriate items. This will help you choose the most appropriate chew toys for your dog. It is important to remember that your German Shepherd should not be allowed to chew on toys all day, as this can lead to other behavioral issues. When your dog shows signs of attempting to chew on something they should not, redirect them to chew toys instead. The rest of the day should be filled with training , exercise, rest, and time spent bonding with you. Additional nibbling consideration: Tasty snacks can be a fun way to break up the monotony for your German Shepherd. While they may not last long, I personally like to use them as a reward for my German Shepherd when they exhibit good behavior. Leave it Command Despite proper training, your German Shepherd may occasionally attempt to chew on items they should not, such as the leg of a wooden kitchen table. When you notice your dog becoming interested in a non-chewable item, such as hardwood furniture, it is important to use anti-chew techniques to discourage this behavior. You can also expand on this command by giving your dog the object they are trying to chew, and repeating the command when they put it in their mouth. Each time your dog obeys the command, reward them with a treat, their favorite chew toy, or a compliment to reinforce the desired behavior. Exercise A mature German Shepherd requires plenty of physical and psychological engagement, as well as at least 2 hours of strength training per day. This can be split up into morning and evening walks, as well as daytime games and workout stretches. If your German Shepherd is not receiving plenty of exercise, his high energy and intelligence will have to be channeled elsewhere. Likewise, he will become bored and confused, which can lead to deteriorating behavior, such as unnecessary chewing. Studies have shown that when compared to those who received the appropriate amount of daily activity, puppies with minimal physical activity were more susceptible to anxiety disorders and auditory intolerance. Chew Alternatives Many pet owners believe it is acceptable to give their German Shepherds old footwear or scraps of discarded clothing to chew on, rather than more valuable items still in use. This is incorrect thinking. Anti-Chew Deterrents Consider using safe anti-chew dog deterrents if your German Shepherd is chewing on things. Use a Crate If you must keep your German Shepherd dog confined at home, keep him contained in a crate. Most dogs view their crates as a special place where they can relax or nap after exercise. Crates with double doors are commonly used. They provide you with more options when it comes to placing it in your home, but a single-door option works as well. Make sure to get a size of 48 inches so your German Shepherd has enough room to move around and stretch easily. To keep him occupied, you can leave him with two or three chew toys. Veterinarian Appointment Medical conditions such as anemia, diabetes, or gastrointestinal diseases can lead to destructive chewing. This allows for early detection and treatment of any illnesses that your German Shepherd may be experiencing. Reasons Why Your German Shepherd Destroys Everything Destructive behavior is a common canine behavioral problem that includes chewing of items in the home. Chewing is a natural instinct-driven behavior of both puppies and adult dogs but without regulation and control, it leads to the destruction of items in the home. For sure dogs do not intentionally do this but are driven to this behavior. The first step is to determine the specific cause of destructive behavior to implement the appropriate method to teach your dog against this behavior. Below are the reasons why your German Shepherd displays this behavior. To entertain themselves, they direct their attention to items in the home that they can chew on. The German Shepherd is a high-energy dog that needs to expand its energy in activities and plenty of exercises and when not provided with adequate outlets of energy, they get bored and result in directing the energy on chewing which is fun. This behavior is also seen when a German Shepherd is left alone and does not have anything to engage it. Puppy Teething If your German Shepherd is a puppy, expect chewing behavior. It is normal dog behavior and this will be frequent especially for a puppy during teething which occurs between 3 to 4 months of age. They do this to ease the discomfort and pain they feel when they are teething. They will find anything on site to chew on. By understanding the stage of development of their dog you can put the appropriate measures to help your pup during this growth stage. Recommended Reading : Why does my German Shepherd puppy sleep so much? Separation Anxiety As a dog owner, your German Shepherd will be highly attached to you and they will want to be close to you all of the time. They become anxious and stressed which is displayed by excessive barking, constant pacing, scratching on doors, and chewing on items so that they can cope. It is important to always calm down and teach your dog how to be ok while you are away which will also prevent destructive behavior. A German Shepherd can also become anxious when his or her environment changes like moving to a new home, change of items in the home, or when a new pet is introduced. Inadequate Training Dogs will naturally and instinctively be compelled to chew on things and without control, this can result in the destruction of your home. Your German Shepherd needs to be taught appropriate behavior, for example, what to touch and what not to touch. This is primarily done through dog-training to discourage any inappropriate destructive behavior. You can teach him or her items that are off-limits and show items that they can direct their attention to such as their toys. Train them on anti-chew commands which will assist in helping them understand this. Remember to use positive reinforcement by giving praise or treats to assure them that they are doing well. This will encourage them and enforce good behavior. If you also need help in teaching good behavior, you can also seek assistance from a dog trainer that can help you in the process. Attention-seeking Sometimes destructive behavior is a call of attention from your dog. Your German Shepherd may just want to spend more time with you and to communicate that they may turn to destruction things they know you will have to address by directing attention to them. Identify if this is the reason for the behavior to rectify it. Fear German Shepherds can also be afraid of very loud noises such as fireworks or thunderstorms. To hide or run away from this perceived danger, your German Shepherd may scratch on walls or doors in an attempt to escape and protect themselves. Identify if this is the cause of destructive behavior to apply the appropriate method to calm them down. Get to determine the reason behind their behavior to take the appropriate step in stopping it. The following comprise of what to help stop the behavior : Provide Adequate Exercise Plenty of exercises can help in alleviating boredom in your German Shepherd and help him or her use their excess energy. This will greatly reduce destructive behavior as a result of boredom. Also, play with them regularly so that they can use their energy. In cases where you simply cannot, you can take them to a dog daycare where they will be engaged with activities. Provide Toys Providing toys such as chew toys to German shepherd puppies or an adult dog will minimize the destruction of items in your home. Puppies will be able to ease their teething discomfort with toys while the adult German Shepherd will be able to enjoy his chew sessions and jaw stretching moments with an item they are allowed to use. You can also use these toys in the training sessions to show your dog what items are ok to chew on and what are off-limits. This will help your German Shepherd distinguish what is not allowed and toys that they can chew on. For example, prevent access to certain rooms or use indoor dog gates to restrict movement to areas not accessible. This will prevent your dog from reaching things that they may chew on or destroy. Also, whenever your dog is in the house, supervise them to see what they are up to. Keeping watch will allow you to be aware of inappropriate behavior when it happens and be able to correct and teach them not to do it again. Provide Training You can also engage a professional animal behaviorist to assist you in the process of training your German Shepherd against destructive behavior. Teaching your dog boundaries consisting of items in your home that they should not touch is important to regulate and control the behavior. Containment By Use Of A Crate One way of preventing destruction in your home is to contain your puppy or adult German Shepherd in a crate especially when you are away from them. This will limit them from accessing items in the home that they would get a chance to damage. Also, provide them their favorite toys in the crate so that they will be kept busy playing with the toy. Use Chew Deterrent On Items To prevent your German shepherd from chewing on items in your house, you can use a safe bitter solution sprayed on the items to discourage your dog from chewing and destroying them. A simple mixture of apple cider vinegar and water sprayed on furniture legs or other items acts as a deterrent. When your German Shepherd tastes this when he or she begins to chew on an item the bitter taste of the vinegar will deter them from continuing to chew. This will prevent further destruction of the item. Conclusion: Why does my German Shepherd destroy everything? Destructive behavior is a common behavior problem that includes excessive chewing. It is important to know the causes of this behavior to know the right action to take to tame the habit. Remember to be patient with your dog because even the most trained German Shepherds can have slip-ups where they damage items. Do not punish your German Shepherd because this will only increase their anxiety and stress which will negatively impact them. I hope this article helped you know the reasons why a German Shepherd may destroy everything in your home and also how to stop this destructive behavior. By following The different methods as provided you should be able to curb this behavior and prevent the destruction of valuable items in your home. Your German shepherd will also understand what they can and cannot touch. If you liked this article you may also like to learn more from the below resources on German Shepherds. The information is not meant to substitute formal and individualized advice from a veterinarian. If you're concerned about the health of your dog, seek medical advice from a vet. Related Posts. Below are some possible reasons why your German Shepherd is being destructive. Boredom German Shepherds are dogs that need a lot of exercise to be properly stimulated. Separation anxiety The cause of the destruction could be caused by separation anxiety where your German Shepherd does not like being left alone. To reduce this type of destruction you can try to get it used to being without you for longer time periods by starting by only leaving for a small amount of time. You can do this by simply leaving the room for a few seconds and then to reward it for being well behaved and then to gradually increase the time that you are away. There can be a lot of other issues with this type of destruction so a good idea would be to get the help of a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist in your area. Related post: Why is my German Shepherd so anxious? Fear It could be that something happened in the past that has caused your German Shepherd to become fearful of something which could result in it becoming destructive. Related post: Why is my German Shepherd afraid? Nature It could just be that your particular German Shepherd is more destructive than others. Train it to not be destructive Training your German Shepherd to stop being destructive can be a difficult thing to do but with a lot of patience and persistence you can make a lot of progress. Then, when it starts to chew things, get its attention and then when it gives you its attention get it to sit or lay down then reward them with a treat. When it does start destroying things in your presence avoid physically pulling the German Shepherd away unless you have to. This teaches them what is ok to chew on and what is not. There are a number of ways that you can do so that I will mention below. Instead, you should try to leave it in an area where there is less for it to destroy. One way to reduce its access to things that it can destroy is to make use of pet gates that block its path into different rooms. You can also make sure that you have high fences that are hard to break through since it might decide to start chewing on the fence. Easy objects to move would include remotes, wires, shoes, poisonous fluids like dish soap and pillows. Give lots of exercise German Shepherds are very active dogs that are designed to be able to run for hours. With this being the case one of the most important things for you to do is to make sure that your German Shepherd is getting lots of exercise daily. You might find that your German Shepherd can handle more exercise than you normally give it so you might want to find ways to make the exercise even more tiring. You could also teach it to play fetch. By doing so you will be able to wear it out quickly because it will have it doing a lot of sprinting without much rest in between. You could also teach it to swim. When dogs swim they have to move their legs around a lot which can cause them to use up a lot of energy. There are apps that you can download now that let you hire a local dog walker through the app. Get help from a behaviorist If all of your attempts to get your German Shepherd to stop destroying things has not been working then try getting help from a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist in your area. They will have dealt with similar issues before and they will be able to assist you with getting your German Shepherd to be less destructive. If you would like some more tips on how to train your German Shepherd take a look at the German Shepherd training book on Amazon. Instead, they simply make it choose not to chew the particular thing that you sprayed. If you just train it to be well behaved once then it will likely forget its training. Related Questions Why is my German Shepherd suddenly destroying things? If your German Shepherd is suddenly destroying things when it was previously calm then there could be emotional issues causing the behavior. It could also be that it is ill or injured and that it is causing it to be destructive. To get it to stop you should consider getting help from a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist in your area. If you want a happy and obedient German Shepherd, this is one of the best online dog training programs available right now. You can get the first month free using This link. Discover the online program that more than 57, dog owners have used to rapidly transform their dog into a well-behaved, obedient furry friend. The phrase "destructive chewing" may sound redundant, because — by its very nature! Your German Shepherd has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth: just about anything she starts to chew on is probably going to show the effects of it inside of a minute. So just to clarify, when I use the phrase "destructive chewing", I'm referring to inappropriate chewing: the kind of chewing that's focused on your own possessions and household items, instead of on your dog's own designated toys and chews. The three main reasons why dogs chew: - Most dogs have a natural desire to chew. It's fun, it passes the time, and it's a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity for example, if she's chewing on something that tastes good. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing — it's the doggie equivalent of comfort food. How to prevent destructive chewing Dogs are perfectly capable of learning not to chew your stuff — you just have to put in a little effort first, that's all. Destructive chewing can be prevented. Take control of destructive chewing: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved dog in the world, there's still no reason to test her self-control — after all, dogs explore the world with their mouths. Dog-proofing your home means taking whatever you don't want to end up in her mouth, and making it unavailable. Consider her size and agility when deciding whether something's out of reach: can she jump? Can she climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object? How tall is she when standing on her back legs? Common targets for destructive chewing in the home include books, eye wear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls. It should go without saying that all food needs to be put securely away: don't leave snacks on low tables or even counter tops. You'll be surprised how acrobatic your dog can be when there's food at stake! Rinse your dirty plates clean of any food scraps before leaving them by the sink. Prevent her from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times she manages to snatch a jaw full of a forbidden substance — a chair-leg, a pillow, a running shoe — the more readily she'll target those items in future. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first place, it's a lot easier for her to understand what you expect of her. Practically speaking, this means confining her in a dog-proofed area until you're confident of her understanding of the house rules. Don't set her up for failure by blurring the boundaries between her stuff OK to chew and your stuff not OK to chew. Don't offer your dog cast-off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can't possibly expect her to be able to tell the difference between your brand new shoes and the one she's got in her mouth that you gave her five minutes ago. Provide her with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff to avoid destructive chewing in the first place. If her environment is relatively barren of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can hardly blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she's an adolescent under three years or a puppy under one year , her needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give her two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for her. Spend lots of time in active supervision to prevent "destructive chewing". Yes, it might be easier for you to just keep her penned up in her crate, run, or the yard — but that's boring and horrible for her, and hardly much fun for you either if you wanted a pet that you don't need to interact with, you'd have got a goldfish, right? She can't learn what you expect of her if she's spending all her time boxed up in the dog-proof zone: she needs the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations, so she can understand what's appropriate and what's not. When you catch her chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her by making a loud noise: clap your hands or make an "Ah-ah-aaaah! Then, immediately hand her a tasty and dog-appropriate alternative a rawhide bone or other chew toy ; as soon as her jaws close around it, praise her lavishly. There is no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing "her" toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals trouble. Maintain a productive attitude Above all, remember to keep your expectations realistic concerning destructive chewing and chewing in general. Return from Destructive Chewing to Puppy Teething When you feel dog tired at night, it may be because you've growled all day long. Nylabone Big Chew Chew Toy Remember that your German Shepherd should not be chewing toys the entire day, as this can become another behavior problem. Instead, give chew toys when your dog shows signs of putting his mouth on what he should not. Other chewing considerations: Edible chews are a good alternative to mix things up a bit for your GSD. Edible chews for teeth cleaning are also ideal, and my GSD loves Dentastix from Amazon, especially the variety pack. Avoid rawhide chews , as these can be dangerous for some dogs. I prefer alternatives to rawhide, but it really does depend on your dog. This interesting study investigated the effects of giving the horn of a calf hoof as a chew. The resulting finding was that although the hooves provided a positive experience for the dogs as a chew, they should not be given to prevent tooth lesions. Using anti-chew commands is important in deterring your dog from destructive chewing when you notice his attention to a non-chew object, such as wooden furniture in your home. Keep Your German Shepherd Dog Well-Exercised As a high-energy and extremely smart dog, an adult German Shepherd requires plenty of mental and physical stimulation with at least 2 hours of exercise daily. This can be distributed between a morning and evening walk and the play and training exercises during the day. If your German Shepherd is under-exercised, his high energy and smartness will have to be directed to other outlets. Besides, he will feel bored and frustrated, resulting in destructive behavior and that could be excessive chewing. Research on dog anxiety found that those who had little daily exercise as puppies were more prone to separation anxiety and noise sensitivity when compared to those who had the recommended amount of daily exercise. Do Not Offer Old Possessions As Chew Alternatives Some dog owners think that it is ok to offer their German Shepherd old shoes, rags, or cast-off clothes to chew instead of the valuable ones still in use. Wrong thinking! If you give your dog an old shoe to chew, you are reinforcing his preference for chewing shoes. Once the old shoe is all destroyed and no longer good to chew, your German Shepherd will look for your latest purchase to replace the consumed one! Dogs are dogs, and they do not know the difference between an old shoe and a brand new one! Spray the appalling deterrent on the objects you want to keep your dog from chewing. Reapply the deterrent daily for weeks so that your dog permanently associates the object with the smell or taste. Note that coupling the deterrent with another form of training that redirects your German Shepherd to chew permitted objects such as toys will be more effective in making your dog cease chewing your valuables. However, be careful with the latter as although the pepper is not harmful to your dog if swallowed, it may irritate his eyes if he gets it on his paws and then rubs his face. Also, you will need to supervise your German Shepherd when you use a deterrent for the first time. Some dogs can be daring and will brave bad odor or taste to get what they want! Ensure you use deterrents that are alcohol-free and safe for both your dog and your valuables, as well as non-staining. If using a homemade deterrent, make sure you know which foods are poisonous to your German Shepherd. Most dogs love their crate and see it as their special place where they can go to relax or sleep after a good exercise session. They give you more options when deciding where in your home to place it, but this one also has a single-door option. You may want to leave him two or three toy chews to keep him busy. Your GSD should be caged for the rest of the time. Remember that the maximum number of hours you should leave your dog in a crate is four. More than that is considered extreme, and your dog may even turn to self-destructive behavior like biting himself or chewing his crate to the point of hurting his teeth and mouth. This allows for early diagnosis and treatment should your GSD be suffering from any of the conditions. Suppose the medical condition is psychological, like in anxiety, working with a behavioral therapist is advised. However, in all cases, ensure that your dog has a proper professional diagnosis before initiating any treatment or therapy. Final Thoughts Chewing is a normal and instinctual exploratory behavior in German Shepherds and all dog breeds. This means that you should not try to eliminate it. Dogs chew to find relief from teething discomfort or strengthen their teeth and jaws. When chewing is constant, targets valuables, and causes harm to your German Shepherd, then it becomes abnormal and destructive and should be stopped. Abnormal chewing in German Shepherds can be caused by poor training in puppyhood, anxiety, insufficient exercise, boredom and frustration, attention-seeking, and predisposing medical conditions. Related Posts You May Like:. Chewing is a natural behavior for dogs, they enjoy it, and it helps keep their teeth clean and jaws strong. All dogs explore the world with their mouths. The problem starts if your German Shepherd starts to chew your personal possessions such as socks, shoes, coats, or even the wooden leg of your dining table! This is known as destructive chewing. Causes of destructive chewing are a lack of training, insufficient exercise, boredom, attention-seeking, anxiety, or other medical causes. Anxiety can manifest itself in three forms; noise sensitivity, fearfulness, and separation anxiety. The latter is common in German Shepherds but research shows that all three types of anxiety can cause behavior problems in dogs. There are plenty of methods that you can use to stop this destructive chewing. Rather than scolding them and causing fear, use these 16 ways to stop your German Shepherd from destructive chewing and teach him what he can chew on. This needs to be varied and not just leash walking! GSDs need to run, play fetch or frisbee, or do agility. They also need a good amount of attention throughout the day to keep them stimulated. Remember, never leave a German Shepherd alone for more than 4 hours, even less for puppies. Research on dog anxiety and exercise found that puppies who had very little daily exercise were more susceptible to separation anxiety and noise sensitivity when compared to pups who had the recommended amount of daily exercise. Especially when you leave your GSD alone, you need to make sure they have enough chew toys to keep them entertained. Some owners believe that dogs love shoes, which is actually false! They love variety. German Shepherds are one smart cookie, so they know when a toy looks or feels similar to another. You will need to buy plenty of toys that look, sound, and feel completely different. This process will prevent them from seeking different types of chew toys! I always choose KONG toys as there are loads to choose from, and last forever. They are made from strong rubber that not even your German Shepherd can chew through! You can read more about her favorite ones here. Instead, stick to a specific word or phrase that will make them connect their disliked behavior with the sound. Use Treats as Rewards When faced with a destructive chewer, make sure you have small treats to hand. Rather than scolding them over and over, show your German Shepherd that good rewards are given to puppies who obey! This method helps to stop unwanted chewing because it teaches your pup that chewing is only for toys and food, nothing else. Check out my recommended treats for German Shepherds here. They are all healthy and made with quality ingredients. You can buy cheaper ones, of course; however, most will be of poor quality with added fillers, artificial ingredients, or preservatives. Use a Clicker Clicker training is a great way to train your German Shepherd. It is a form of positive reinforcement. Dogs quickly learn that if they do something good and please you and they get a treat, they are likely to keep repeating the rewarded behavior. Timing is very important when clicker training but first you need to introduce your pup to the clicker. When you press the clicker and your GSD hears the noise, you then give him a treat. Do this a few times so he now associates the noise with getting a treat. The best way to distract a German Shepherd is to get their attention by either a clap of hands or a snap of the fingers and then quickly get eye contact with your dog. You can then start to play with them yourself. They love your attention! GSDs seek a strong bond with their owners more than almost any other dog. Patience and consistency are the key components of training your dog not to chew your stuff! Shouting will not work when trying to discipline your German Shepherd. This will force them away from their chew toys and make them confused or sad. Your GSD could even end up barking, which is much more challenging to tame and prevent than chewing. They will want to chew on anything to soothe their sore gums whilst their adult teeth are coming through. At this young age, German Shepherd puppies are super inquisitive and want to learn and experiment with their mouths by chewing everything and anything. Tuck and tie away electric cords, curtains, and headphones, or anything your pup may be attracted to. I recommend crate-training your pup as this provides a safe environment where he can gnaw those interesting KONG chew toys. Most dogs love their crate as it is their special place to go and rest or play. If you opt not to have a crate, one idea is to segregate a part of your home using a dog gate. You can also use a particular room and make it puppy-proof. Make a Homemade Chewing Deterrent It might be a bit messy, but you can make a homemade anti-chew deterrent and put it on or near your valuables that your German Shepherd has started to chew. Some things to try are pepper, vinegar, or Tabasco. You can also use lemon oil or orange citrus. Along with spicy food, dogs tend to steer clear from the smell and taste of sour or bitter food. The idea is to first introduce the deterrent to your GSD by putting some on a small piece of cotton wool, placing it in his mouth, and seeing how he reacts. You may need to experiment before you find one that works on your dog. These sprays are non-toxic and will make your GSD gag or cringe when he licks or starts to chew the material, making him never want to do it again! Get Everyone On Board Friends, family, and anyone else who comes in contact with your German Shepherd all need to be on board when training your dog to stop chewing. Different commands and gestures can be confusing and impossible for your dog to hold onto. Instead, make sure that you all use the same motions and phrases. A simple way to do this is to lay the foundations as soon as the destructive chewing begins. Write down on a whiteboard all the commands that you plan to use and leave in a handy place as a reminder for everyone. Rather than only chewing on the toy shoe, they may start to chew all shoes in their sight. This will usually occur between weeks of age and may last until 6 months old. Try to keep them occupied with a delicious bully stick which is a healthy natural chew made from high-protein beef muscle. It combines the rewarding treat suggestion with the distracting toy tip! Your German Shepherd will eventually associate the behavior with time-out, making them stay away. Only use time-out if you have a separate kennel or crate or area specifically for it. Some puppies have extra-itchy or painful gums when their adult teeth are coming through. This causes them to scratch them by biting everything they can. Final Thoughts German Shepherds have plenty of needs, including the need to have something to chew on. Never yell at your German Shepherd for any form of destructive behavior, instead, use a calm, commanding tone and teach him the right way using positive reinforcement as detailed in this article. Related Posts You May Like:. Breed Info German Shepherds are highly intelligent, highly active dogs who can easily get themselves into all sorts of interesting situations. Have ever wondered why does my German Shepherd destroy everything? This article will give the most common reasons why German Shepherds can be destructive as well as provide some solutions to stop or reduce this behavior. German Shepherds can destroy things for a variety of reasons. However, normally their destructive behavior stems from boredom, a lack of training, a lack of exercise, teething or to get attention. This is especially true for puppy and adolescent German Shepherds who have more energy that they need to burn off. Although German Shepherd puppies will sleep a lot , when they are awake, they need to be engaged with or they will easily get bored and find something to play with or destroy. Adolescent German Shepherds will be awake more during the day than puppies, and as such will need to have more activity throughout the day to keep from getting bored. Although German Shepherds calm down with age, older GSDs still need physical exercise and engagement on a daily basis to keep them happy and from being bored. If your GSD is destroying things look at how much you engaged with your dog that day, if you have been busier and had less time to walk or play with your pup boredom could be the reason for their antics. Too Much Freedom Another big reason why GSDs destroy things is because they have too much freedom and access to items that are easily destroyable. Lack of Exercise Another common reason for destructive behaviors with German Shepherds is a lack of exercise. This kind of goes hand in hand with the boredom reason. Training helps teach your dog discipline, as well as helps them to learn what type of behaviors you deem as acceptable or not acceptable. The saying any attention is good attention is very accurate when it comes to our dogs. Your dog is smart enough to figure out that when they take your clothes, shoes, or something you care about you react very quickly. So, if your dog wants to get your attention, they quickly figure out that taking something of yours is the way to get them noticed. Teething Teething is another reason why your German Shepherd could be destroying everything. When your puppy is teething, they will go looking for things to chew on to soothe their gums. You may even find your dog chewing on furniture during this phase. The Puppy Biting Phase If you have a puppy that is destroying things another culprit could be the puppy biting phase all GSD puppies go through. During this phase, they are likely to bite your hands, ankles and even chew on many of your favorite items. This phase is normal and your puppy will grow out of being mouthy with age. Fear Some dogs destroy things because they are afraid. Sometimes prior negative experiences can cause our dogs to be fearful when reminded of that instance. For example, some dogs are scared of thunderstorms or certain sounds remind them of a negative experience from their past. When some dogs get scared, they get anxious and start looking for something to do to keep them occupied, this is when they can become destructive. Separation Anxiety Separation anxiety is also a reason some dogs destroy everything. German Shepherds in particular, are known to be a breed that more regularly suffers from separation anxiety when their owners are away. GSD who have separation anxiety get anxious and nervous when their owners are away. This nervousness and anxiousness cause them to search for other things to do or destroy to help them pass the time and feel better. A tired dog will likely sleep instead of hunting for something to get into. If you know you are going to be busy, give your dog exercise before you get started so they will be tired while you are busy. A long walk , fetch , biking , rollerblading , flyball , agility , and Schutzhund are all good ways to give your dog exercise. Keep Your Dog Mentally Engaged Another good way of reducing boredom is to keep your dog mentally active. Physical exercise is only one way of tiring your dog out. Mental exercises and puzzle toys are also good ways of keeping your dog engaged indoors. Since German Shepherds are very intelligent, they need to be challenged mentally and these toys and activities help them engage their minds more than just going for a walk. Incorporating mental exercises into your play routine will help cut down on boredom and destruction. Train Them As stated above, a lack of training can contribution to destruction. Teaching your dog new tricks is a great way to keep them mentally engage but also teach them discipline as well as your expectations for their behavior. All German Shepherds should know common commands like sit, stay, and down. However, it is also fun to teach your dog other commands like how to hug , rollover , army crawl , and how to shake hands after your dog has mastered the basics. Crate Training Crate training is a big part of potty training, but also is an important part of keeping your dog from destroying the house when you are away. There are many items that can be harmful to dogs, like certain household plants and chemicals. If your dog has access to roam and likes to destroy things they may get into something or swallow something that could harm them while you are away. Providing your puppy with safe teething toys gives them something safe to chew on to relieve their pain other than your clothes, shoes, and furniture. Keep Easily Destroyed Items Out of Reach The best way to keep your dog from destroying things is to keep items that can be destroyed out of reach. If you know your dog likes to chew up your shoes, maybe keep your shoes in a closed closet instead of out in the open. Just do the best you can to remove all items that a dog could be attracted to out of reach and this should greatly reduce the destruction. Leave Them With Safe Chew Toys Another good thing to do to keep your dog occupied when you are away or busy is to leave them with some safe chew toys to play with. Toys like KONGs are a great option for leaving with your GSD because they are tough enough to not get destroyed and you can stuff treats and peanut butter in them to keep your dog licking and entertained for quite some time. Just calmly remove the shoes and ignore your dog. Now when your dog does something you want them to do, like downs when commanded, you should go crazy with praise letting them know they did the right thing. This will teach your dog that destructive behavior will not get them attention but listening to you will. Over time, they will stop destroying things if they are only doing so to gain your attention. Remember it is still important to set your dog up for success by reducing their ability to destroy things but keeping those items out of reach. Reducing Fear and Separation Anxiety Dealing with destruction caused by anxiety because of fear or separation anxiety will take some patience and time to resolve but it is possible is many cases to at least reduce the unwanted behavior. You will need to drill down onto what is causing the behavior so you can better know how to address it. This article about German Shepherd separation anxiety will help give you some tips on how to handle separation anxiety. Sometimes, in severe instances you may need to find a specialist who can provide guidance in curbing this behavior, your vet should have some recommendations. Final Thoughts Being that German Shepherds are a high drive, high energy breed they are prone to destroying a thing or two. Understanding the reasons why they destroy everything will help you figure out how to stop this behavior. If your dog is destroying thing because of a lack of exercise, give them more physical activity, whereas if your dog is destroying things because they are teething, your need to provide them with some relief. Keeping your dog active both physically and mentally, crate training, and putting away easily destroyable items are some of the fastest ways to stop your German Shepherd from tearing up everything in the house.

Conclusions I asked the experts — when to start grooming a Goldendoodle? While I had a fair idea of when I would first start grooming a Goldendoodle puppy — I decided to ask the experts! I sent the following short survey to four Poodle Mix breed groomers, two Goldendoodle breeders, and 8 actual Goldendoodle owners. I then ran a poll on a Goldendoodle owner Facebook group and verified the results were consistent. There were four simple questions that we asked to find out when to start grooming a Goldendoodle Puppy. How old should a Goldendoodle be for first grooming What age should a Goldendoodle start being shampooed? What age to start cleaning Goldendoodle ears? How often Does a Goldendoodle need to be trimmed in its first year? I then asked for any special comments, some of which you can see in the results below, supporting what we found. As always thank you to our experts — we are thrilled our panel was willing to answer our surveys and help us out. Here are the results! The experts mostly agreed that a Goldendoodle should be first groomed around 5 months of age. A pie chart of the expert survey results showing how the experts recommend when to start grooming a goldendoodle puppy. The breeders trended a little higher, recommending first grooming around 7 months of age. The owners and groomers settled at 5 months. Everyone mostly agreed around 5 months of age is the first time to groom a Goldendoodle. The primary reason for this is that around this time most Goldendoodle will be shedding their puppy coats. It is also around this time that you will get a clearer picture of what type of coat your Goldendoodle actually has. This will influence the frequency and cost of grooming over the lifespan of your Goldendoodle. Straight coats shed a lot more but are lower maintenance. Wavy and curly coats are low to no shedding but require more frequent grooming. There are lots of sounds, sights, smells and touching that a Goldendoodle needs to get used to. The earlier the better they feel about grooming when older. This is great because Goldendoodles can get stinky. There were four options to select from. Many owners use puppy shampoo for the first year or two. This is especially true if they have a super cute teacup or toy miniature Goldendoodle. It varies dog to dog! Any Poodle Mix Breed needs to be acutely aware of the issues that our awesome mixbreed dogs inherit from the Poodle. The shape of the ear canal and hair that grows can lead to troubles and ear odours. Cleaning a Poodle Mix ear canal is something that can easily be done at home. Goldendoodles will require regular grooming and upkeep. You can trim your Goldendoodle at home! If you feel up to it — it is a worthy challenge! Even if it is not going to be a regular thing — I recommend everyone learns how to do a Goldendoodle puppy cut. With that said — our awesome Groomers do an amazing job — and are usually worth the money if you can spare it! They can be magnificent at keeping your Goldendoodle calm and enjoyable. Depending on the generation and coat type of your Goldendoodle , this can be subtle. For others, it is a very noticeable change. Our experts recommended 5 months and older for grooming because Goldendoodle tend to be in the start of the puppy coat transition at this point. This only refers to a whole body trim, as a hygienic and comfort trim of the paws, eyes, and around the butt are safe and common. The change is so minor in some wavy coated Goldendoodle that you will not even notice it. For straight hair or curly, it can be a significant difference in softness. Cutting the Goldendoodle puppy hair at the right time around 5 months plus gives the easiest foundation for soft fur and easy maintenance. An exception is if your Goldendoodle just ends up too dang shaggy before they hit 5 months. Some Groodles just have fast growing hair! It is unavoidable for such dogs to have a full body trim earlier. Conclusions You should start grooming your Goldendoodle early to get them used to the procedure. The first full groom will come around 5 months of age. This is an ideal time as the Goldendoodle puppy coat will be shedding. A Goldendoodle puppy cut and coat trim will keep your puppy looking and feeling fresh. It is very possible to figure out the type of Goldendoodle coat early using these tricks. You can wash a Goldendoodle puppy with shampoo and conditioner from a very early age. You should only wash when indicated till the dog is older. For puppies only wash when there is dirt or bacteria. Choose the best shampoo for Goldendoodle puppies based on reviews and testing. You can safely groom a Goldendoodle at home, from cleaning their Poodle Mix ears , right through to full haircuts and groom following online guides. For more information about Goldendoodles, consider reading our comprehensive Goldendoodle Vs Labradoodle breed guide. If you enjoyed this article, consider checking out our extensively researched article about what do do if your Goldendoodle barks all the time. We figure out the causes, and find ways to minimise and eliminate problem barking behaviour. All from home, all for free. A Pinterest friendly image for this article. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Adding some conditioner can help remove tough mats. Daily brushing is the best way to prevent painful mats from forming. It also helps your Goldendoodle if they see the same person every time they go in for grooming. That makes it feel like going in to see a friend for a familiar experience. You see, every professional groomer, even at the same grooming salon, has their own routine and way of doing things. If your dog likes how a groomer does their nails, might as well stick with them. If you can find a good groomer and stick with them, that groomer will get to see your Goldendoodle grow into an adult and can report physical or behavioral changes. There are so many reasons to try to stay with the same groomer. It really is the best thing for your Goldendoodle. Before we talk about the different haircut styles and variations in lengths available for Goldendoodles, we need to talk about their different hair types. Goldendoodle Hair Types Since Goldendoodles are hybrids, they can have one of three different coat types depending on their genetic lottery. Most people opt for lengths between half an inch and an inch. Talk to your groomer about what length you think you can manage. These kinds of hairstyle that leave a mane and a tight clip on the rest of the body are a fun hairstyle, ideal for hot summer months. Kennel Clip for Goldendoodles If you or your dog hate the brushing process, or your Goldendoodle just loves to spend time in the woods, in a lake, in the mud, or anywhere except indoors, a kennel clip may be your best bet. This is a great summer cut because the short hair keeps your Goldendoodle cool. You can add a poof to the end to give them a flag tail, give them clean feet, round feet, or add pom poms. It all comes down to your personal preference and whether those areas are matted when you take your pet to the groomer. Make sure you discuss these areas in detail with the groomer at drop-off. Final Thoughts The best thing you can do for your Goldendoodle puppy is to start brushing them as soon as you bring them home and take them to the groomer early and often so they can get used to the process. Goldendoodle puppies should have their face, feet, and potty area trimmed as soon as possible to get used to the grooming process. Goldendoodle puppies will likely have their first full haircut between 6 months and 1 year old. Introduce your Goldendoodle puppy to daily brushing as soon as you bring them home. Use a metal comb to run through every inch of your dog after brushing to avoid missing tangles and mats. Make brushing part of your daily routine to prevent painful mats from forming. Find a groomer early and stick with them to ensure a lifetime of success with grooming. Puppy Grooming: First Haircut When should a goldendoodle puppy go to the groomer? What do you do? The first trip to the groomer Your puppy has hopefully! She should have already had her initial introduction to her lifetime of being groomed. Your goldendoodle puppy should visit a professional groomer for the first time after her week immunizations. Since she will need regular grooming throughout her life, both she and her groomer will benefit if she is accustomed to being groomed from a young age. The first big girl or big boy haircut The wavy, curly adult coat will start replacing the soft, fluffy puppy coat around months of age. Waiting to cut the hair until the adult coat makes its debut beneath the layers of puppy fur helps ensure that the adult coat remains soft. Poodle groomers and poodle fanciers claim that shaving a poodle or goldendoodle down before her adult coat starts coming in could damage the adult coat, affecting the texture. Take your goldendoodle puppy for her first full big girl haircut at months of age, once her adult coat has started coming in. As aforementioned, take her to the groomer for a puppy clip after her week immunizations. Before your first big trip to the groomer for that full haircut, spend time looking through pictures of goldendoodle haircuts. You can also read about what to expect when you take her to the groomer and how to avoid a poodle-style haircut. You should regularly groom your puppy: brushing her hair, cleaning her ears, brushing her teeth, clipping her toenails , and checking her for any anomalies i. You want your puppy to become accustomed to being brushed from a young age. Do the brief bonding exercise with your puppy each night before bed to ensure she is used to being touched and handled. Your groomer with thank you. Trust me. Still have questions about goldendoodle puppy grooming? Learn more about what shampoos and brushes to purchase for grooming your goldendoodle from a professional goldendoodle groomer. Share this:. How you want her hair styled is completely up to you! The good news is, hair grows back! Round feet are more commonly seen on goldendoodles but clean feet track less dirt into the house. An all over clip can be done at any length. You can also try lamb cut, where the body is one length blended into longer legs. Unless you already know your preferences, try short clipped ears rather than shaved or fluffy ears and round feet. We recommend waiting 6 months before taking your goldendoodle puppy her first full clip down grooming. The wavy, curly adult coat will start replacing the soft, fluffy puppy coat around months of age. Waiting to cut the hair until the adult coat makes its debut beneath the layers of puppy fur helps ensure that the adult coat remains soft. Shaving a goldendoodle down before her adult coat starts coming in could damage the adult coat, affecting the texture. You should regularly groom your puppy: brushing her hair, cleaning her ears, brushing her teeth, clipping her toenails, and checking her for any anomalies i. What tools do you need for this regular maintenance grooming? A metal comb works best for curly coated goldendoodles while a grooming rake may work well for wavier coated goldendoodles. Either a cordless dremel or nail clippers can be used for this, whichever you prefer. Since goldendoodles have ears that hang down, they are prone to ear infections if water is left in their ears or if their ears are not cleaned regularly. You can even pull this page up on your phone to reference when you drop your goldendoodle off. Once your goldendoodle is all groomed, be sure to post a picture to our Facebook group for other people to use as a reference! Share this:. How often should I brush my puppy? Your puppy needs to be brushed daily with a slicker brush followed by a metal comb. The slicker brush will only brush the surface. The comb will help you detect any mats that are forming underneath, which is a vital part of the process. Daily brushing will keep your puppy mat free and will also teach your puppy that grooming is a routine event. Typically they need to be clipped weekly to be kept at the proper length. As they grow, you can move to once or twice a month. A groomer will typically clip nails as part of the grooming service. How often can I bathe my puppy? As long as you use a tearless shampoo, you can bathe as often as you like. Be sure to fully brush after a bath to avoid matting. When should my puppy have its first hair cut? Your puppy will probably be ready for its first hair cut at months of age. You will want to find a groomer before you bring your puppy home so that you can take them to the groomer before their first hair cut to get them comfortable with the groomer and the process. How much does a professional clip cost? Pricing will vary based on location, kind of cut requested, and the length and condition of the coat. How long does a professional clip usually take? You can expect the grooming appointment to be hours depending the size dog and the kind of cut you request. This is a widget ready area. Add some and they will appear here. For all other questions: Email: admin goldendoodleassociation. Your membership helps to fund research and development regarding health, genetics, puppy development, and more. Member Application. If you have any tips that we could share with our Rainfield Goldendoodle family, please contacct us through Rainfield Facebook page or at my email at laurie rainfieldgoldendoodles. Goldendoodle Puppies at weeks old. Their coats are fluffy and getting thicker. The pup in the middle will be the first to need the hair around his eyes trimmed. We are not being paid or compensated to advertise these. These are just items we have research and added to our grooming set up. Here at Rainfield, we have puppies whose coats range from quite curly our F1bb or some F1b puppies to shaggy wavy coats our F1s and some F1bs. Goldendoodles take a couple years to get their full and final coats, so their coats will change and transition during those first two years. They usually start off pretty fluffy with baby fuzz underneath. Gradually the curlier doodles get more of a curly, poodle-like coat, although usually with looser curls that a poodle. The shaggy wavy coated doodles, get a longer, fuller, straighter coat, often with a little curl in it. In our experience, curlier goldendoodles need their first actual grooming experience a little earlier monhs old than the shaggy wavy doodles months. Two different coat types. Marcus the Great is an F1 doodle and has a shaggy, wavy coat. Princess Neely is an F1b Mini Goldendoodle puppy. She has a beautiful curly coat. Get Your Puppy Started with Weekly Grooming Maintenance Regardless of the coat type, before you start full-on grooming a goldendoodle puppy,they need to get used to regular brushings and the sounds of the grooming table blowers, clippers, etc. Go ahead and blow dry them a little bit after each bath. If you have clippers or beard trimmers, turn on the clippers and let your goldendoodle get used to the sound. Bring the clippers close to their fur in different places, their head, legs, feet. Give your doodles dog treats while the blower or clippers are going so your doodle develops a positive association with those sounds. Brushing your goldendoodle puppy at least once a week is very important. The earliest grooming a goldendoodle puppy needs is often an eye, ear and sanitary trim. When their hair starts getting in their eyes, or fuzzing out their ears, and when poop residue starts clinging to their fur near their butt, your doodle is ready for their first light grooming. Amber is a 5 month old F1 Goldendoodle Puppy. With our puppies that often happens at about weeks of age. You can either take them to the groomer to get this done, or, if you are more of a DIYer like we are, you can do this at home. A little trim around the eyes, a light buzz on the inside of the ears with a small trimmer like this one and some scissor clipping around their potty areas might be enough to tide you over until their coat is thick enough for their first official grooming. Just be careful because doodles can be bouncy. We use safety tip grooming scissors that have rounded ends for the areas around their face. A scissor clip will even her coat out a bit. With that nice coat, we want her to be used to regular grooming and the grooming table as well. Our doodles seem to need their first grooming at about 5 months old, but puppies with an especially thick, full coat, may need it sooner. Puppies with thinner coats, may be able to go longer than that. We do most of our own grooming, when possible. We prefer the longer, shaggier look on our goldendoodles, so we prefer to start with scissor clipping when grooming a goldendoodle puppy. Scissor clipping is all Amber needs for now. A grooming table makes all the difference. We use the large Flying Pig Brand. Grooming a goldendoodle puppy takes skill, but Violet 16 has learned her grooming techniques by watching Youtube videos. Amber feels good and looks so much cleaner and neater after getting all that puppy fuzz off. Dogs with long ears can have more ear trouble as the hair grows and gets trapped in their ears. Once this happens, moisture is retained and yeast and other bacteria can become a problem. Part of your weekly grooming maintenance should be checking their ears and using an ear wash. We use Zymox Otic and use that for 3 or 4 days. Brownie has those long, floppy doodle ears that need regular cleanings to keep yeast growth at bay. Submit a Comment Your email address will not be published. By Whitney on January 5, This page may include affiliate links. If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Can she get groomed to help? However, you can actually start getting your puppy full-body groomed whenever your groomer believes the pup is ready. They recommend doing this to gradually introduce puppy to the grooming experience, so they can get used to the process without too much stress. Did you know? Poodles get their feet and face shaved for the first time before they leave their mom, usually somewhere between weeks of age. Your groomer will be the one to let you know when they are ready. Actually, private salons all have their own rules. The week thing is just a general observation, so be sure to call around to double-check. You might get lucky! Also, it is said that Petsmart does not require rabies shots in dogs under 4 months, and will take puppies as early as 8 weeks with the recommendation that they have at least rounds of puppy shots to help keep them safe while in the salon with other dogs. This reduces the risk of your puppy contracting diseases from other dogs. This is great for helping to introduce grooming to your puppy as young as possible. The nail trimming is especially important so your puppy can get used to people handling his feet, as well as to stay on top of ideal nail length. Related Content.

I have a great love and passion for German Shepherds, due to their intelligence and loyalty. I have a large, close family that are helping me raise, train, show and breed the dogs I love. Tiltonhaus kennel is attached to our home so that our German Shepherds can live primarily in our home enjoying family life with us. Rotating the dogs this way gives each dog lots of quality time with us. We strive to give our dogs the environment and attention that best enhances their well being and health. We live on 10 acres of land where our dogs can run and explore, along with several secure yards and runs for outdoor activity. Tiltonhaus German Shepherd dogs enjoy family outings, such as hikes, bike rides, picnics, camping, vacations, etc. All of our German Shepherds are purebred, AKC Registered, and come from top West German champion bloodlines known for producing dogs that are not only beautiful, but have balanced temperaments and strong work ethics. Degenerative Myelopathy. Our breeding dogs have had their hips and elbows certified with either the German SV a-stamp program or through OFA, which gives us the confidence to have all of our Tiltonhaus puppies guaranteed for hips and health in writing. Our puppies are handled and socialized from birth. So we become very attached to these little pups and care about their well being. Potential buyers should be prepared to answer questions about why they want to purchase a puppy and their plans for their puppy. We recommend that your new puppy get basic obedience training to be a happy, well-adjusted dog. Tiltonhaus is family owned and operated, fully licensed business located in Deer Park, Washington 15 minutes north of Spokane, WA. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. The dogs are members of our family, and share our home in the open countryside. They enjoy hours of daily exercise for a sound mind and body. A German Shepherd is a strong dog that requires attention, obedience training, and most of all socialization. Here at Breezy Meadows our goal is to produce healthy and devoted family members, with fabulous temperaments, that are a joy to live with. Our loyal dogs adore people young and old, are very well socialized, and possess extraordinary character. The Long Coat German Shepherd is admired for their beauty, gentle disposition, working ability, and their outstanding balanced and trainable temperament. We respect them for their courage, spirit, and power. Anyone who owns a long coat German Shepherd would describe a dog who is more human than canine, with a soulful understanding of their human counterparts. Thank you for visiting our website. We welcome you to come back for updates on available puppies, and new photos of our long coat German Shepherd dogs. Click here to follow us on Facebook Contact us at:. Our breeding program has earned the the highest level of accomplishments that a kennel in the United States can achieve. Nadelhaus breeds purebred German Shepherds year round and we also import both German Shepherd puppies and adults direct from Europe for our clients. Long-haired German Shepherds are technically called a long coat German Shepherd, while a short-haired German Shepherd is called a normal coat or stock coat German Shepherd. Dogs with either coat have the same physiological structure and both have double coats: an undercoat and a top coat. The only difference between the two is the top coat. The long haired German Shepherd will have a heavier top coat than the undercoat. The double coat of a German Shepherd is an important feature of the breed. The double coat weathers and insulates the dogs—it protects them from the cold in the winter and the heat in the summer. The length of the coat of a German Shepherd has no impact on its ability as a working dog. What does a long haired German Shepherd look like? The skeleton and structure of a long-haired German Shepherd will be the same as a short-haired German Shepherd. Both dogs will have an undercoat, but the difference is that the top coat of a long-haired German Shepherd will be longer. The long coat GSD has longer and silkier hair on the chest, back, face, tail, and on the backside of its legs. Short on the head, including the inside of the ears, on the front side of the legs, on the paws and toes, somewhat longer and more strongly covered in hair on the neck, almost forming a mane. On the back side of the legs the hair extends to the carpal joint or the hock and forms clear trousers on the back side of the haunches. Historically, German Shepherds originated in Germany and were native sheepdogs. He firmly believed that the standard of the German Shepherd breed should not include dogs with long hair. Throughout the s, long haired German Shepherds were considered unsuitable and unacceptable for breeding. It is important to note that long-haired German Shepherds are the result of natural genetic diversity and not a separate breed. Their long coats are an inherited trait that can occur when both parents carry the recessive long-hair gene. This gene manifests as a more luxurious and abundant coat, offering a striking contrast to the traditional short-haired German Shepherd appearance. The breeding of long-haired German Shepherds follows the same rigorous standards and principles as their short-haired counterparts. The focus remains on maintaining the breed's exceptional temperament, working abilities, and overall health. Over time, breeders recognized the value of long-haired German Shepherds and began selectively breeding them to maintain and enhance their unique characteristics. Through careful pairings and strategic breeding programs, the long-haired variety established itself as a distinct and cherished branch of the German Shepherd breed. How big do long-haired German Shepherds get? Long-haired German Shepherds are structurally the same as short-haired German Shepherds, therefore they can both grow to similar sizes. Males: inches tall, pounds Females: inches tall, pounds Since both German Shepherds are physiologically the same, they also have the same temperaments: loyal, intelligent, energetic, courageous and protective. German Shepherds are ranked 2 on the AKC Breed Popularity list and make for wonderful family companions and working dogs. How can I identify a long-haired German Shepherd puppy? In the photo below are two litter mates from a recent Nadelhaus litter. The puppy on the left is a long coat and the puppy on the right is a normal coat. The long coat has wispier hair on the chest, back, face, tail, and on the backside of its legs. Long-hair female German Shepherd next to short-hair male German Shepherd. Genetically in German Shepherds, the short hair gene is dominant and the long hair gene is recessive. This means if two short-haired German Shepherds are mated, but neither carries the recessive long hair gene, then no long haired puppies can be produced. However, if two short-haired German Shepherds are mated and both carry the recessive gene, then long-haired German Shepherd puppies can be produced. Long-haired German Shepherds are considered a less common variant of the breed, adding to their allure and exclusivity. While short-haired German Shepherds dominate the breed standard, enthusiasts of long-haired Shepherds appreciate their unique beauty and elegant appearance. Due to their rarity, finding a reputable breeder or rescue organization specializing in long-haired German Shepherds may require some research and patience. However, the joy of owning one of these beautiful dogs is well worth the effort for those who appreciate their longer coats and exceptional qualities. Do long-haired German Shepherds shed more than short-haired German Shepherds? No, this is a common misconception. Although they shed less than short haired German Shepherds, their coats still require regular maintenance. They will need regular brushing and grooming, especially if you enjoy hiking or outdoor activities with your GSD. While it is a rare occurrence for a long-haired GSD to not have an undercoat, most of them do have undercoats. And just like short-haired GSDs, their undercoats will shed more or less throughout the year depending on the season. Should I trim my long haired German Shepherd's coat? The decision to trim a long haired German Shepherd comes down to personal preference, but it is not a necessity. Trimming can help make for more manageable living around the house. If you choose to trim, you can trim around the backs of the ears, on the back of the legs both front and back and then thin the bushy tail. Shaving a German Shepherd on the other hand is never recommended. Their double coats help keep them warm in the winter and cool in the summer. What are long haired German Shepherds called? Regular brushing: Long-haired German Shepherds require regular brushing to prevent matting and tangles. Aim for at least a few brushing sessions per week to keep their coat in good condition. Finish your brushing session with a gentle dog brush to clean up loose hairs. Bathing and drying: It's important to bathe your long-haired German Shepherd as needed, using a dog-specific shampoo. Be sure to thoroughly rinse out all the shampoo to prevent any residue. After bathing, use a high-velocity dryer or a cool air dryer to dry their coat thoroughly, as moisture trapped in the fur can lead to skin issues. Professional grooming: Consider taking your long-haired German Shepherd to a professional groomer for occasional trimming and coat maintenance. A groomer can help keep the fur around sensitive areas, such as the paws and ears, tidy and reduce the chances of matting. Watch for seasonal shedding: Like all German Shepherds, long-haired ones will undergo shedding seasons. Be prepared for increased shedding during these times and brush your dog more frequently to remove loose hair. A de-shedding tool can be helpful in managing shedding and keeping their coat healthy. Remember, each dog is unique, and the specific care requirements may vary. Does Nadelhaus sell long haired German Shepherd puppies? Nadelhaus breeds German Shepherds puppies year round and while the majority of puppies we sell are short hair, we do have occasionally have long haired puppies. We breed all our German Shepherds in the black and red color. If you are looking for a long haired adult German Shepherd, we can also import long-haired German Shepherds direct from Europe. Contact us for more information. These dogs are perfect for special needs, families, emotional support, veterans, and more. Our Long Coat German Shepherds look incredible and are bred from some of the best bloodlines originating from Germany. Take a look at the long coat German Shepherd puppies and adult dogs that we currently have available here at Regis Regal. Long Haired German Shepherd Adults For most people it's probably fairly easy to determine what a long coat German Shepherd is - it simply refers to the length of their fur. Whilst a "standard" German Shepherd will traditionally have short fur, long coats are the result of a recessive gene that any dog can carry. It doesn't mean long coats have any problems - far from it, and for many people they are an even more desirable dog than the standard breed German Shepherd. Long haired German Shepherds look incredibly handsome, and if you're happy with the additional effort required in grooming them and keeping their hair in good condition then they're as loyal and obedient as any other German Shepherd. With our private courier service, we can safely deliver your puppy to all fifty states with utmost love and care. More information here on the long-coat puppies we currently have available for sale. What is their Temperament Like? There is no discernible difference between the temperament of a long coat German Shepherd and a normal short coat dog. For a long time they've been unfairly labeled as being difficult, but sadly this really stems from them not being accepted due to falling outside the normal breeding standard. The Long haired German Shepherds we've raised here at our top breeding facility in Illinois. Our specialized trained dogs have gone on to be used as search dogs, rescue dogs, police dogs, service dogs and therapy dogs. There's no reason long coats can't perform as well or better than short coats since they do look quite incredible at the same time! Whilst a long coat can be a far more desirable dog for some people, when it comes to price they can actually work out around the same price, or even cheaper, than a standard or "normal coat" German Shepherd. The dogs we breed and train here at Regis Regal come from some of the best bloodlines in the world. We conduct Schutzhund training to develop desirable traits including confidence, desire to work, and self-control. Inquire about one of our Long Coat German Shepherds If you would like additional information about our prestigious long coat German Shepherds or our available puppies and service dogs for special needs, please contact us at or regisregal gmail. Your name.

Next » by docrad on 26 May - I have been on a quest to find a nice german shepherd. You would think that would be easy. I was referred to Mittelwest Kennels in Illinois. With that price in mind, I pictured in my head a really nice kennel. Entering the property with the gate that let you in was impressive, what was not impressive was the kennels itself. After getting a tour of the kennels I noticed that there were dogs sitting in crates in the barn but I did not see any empty kennel runs. I asked about that and was told their kennel was being cleaned, there were not any empty kennels to clean. During my 2 hour visit I seen things that did not impress me. Some dogs did not have water and were panting heavily, fur was a mess. When I returned home I checked her web site out, I should have done this prior to going. There are several litters, lots of litters coming soon. Where are all these puppies going to live? So, can anyone give me their experiences with this kennel and lead me to others if they think I should go somewhere else. Thanks by Blitzen on 26 May - Maybe try to find a local kennel that has fewer dogs and breeds less? If you let us know the general area where you live, someone may have some recommendations for you. I assume you are looking for a German showline? You could also try to find out if there is a local GSD breed club or an all breed club in your area. Many times they can refer you to member breeders. Good luck.If you're looking for a showline, there are 2 breeders in close proximity that I would not hesitate to refer you to. I breed working lines, but I "know" both of these women well enough to recommend them and their dogs.Either is easily found online. If you are not set on showlines, I might have something for you in the near future, but that would really depend on what your plans were for the dog. My contact info is in my profile if you want further info, but living in the same area as Mittlewest and the others I mentioned has given me a pretty good idea of where I would and would not send someone for a SL puppy. I've sold a few dogs to people who previously owned dogs from Mittelwest. I would buy this dog if the plumbing were different. In fact, I was planning on buying one of these, but alas, nature does not take puppy orders. This is a super opportunity. That is good use of this forum. They both live in Lake county so they are local. If you are looking for a working line dog Zyta and Seastian Piotrowski out around Dekalb have some that you should consider. Zyta also trains, handles and titles all her own dogs. I recently sent and LE officer to her for a family dog and he is very happy with his pup she may still have some I'm not sure. Decide what you want to do with your pup, how much time and effort you want to put into training and let the breeder whoever it is know, so they can match you up with the correct pup. Good luck Trudy by nanu on 27 May - by gsddreamer on 05 June - My boy is going to be 21 months this month. When I first got him I was going there on a regular basis for training and never saw a bunch of dogs sitting in crates. I started going again for ring training and again haven't seen that. My boy is from Mittelwest but he actually was born at the dam's owne'rs home and was with them till I got him at 2 months old. It seems to me that all the owners want are the puppies from these poor animals and don't give a damn about the animals themselves!! Isn't that being nothing but a glorified puppy mill???? The cruelty is unforgivable!! I'd love to see the owners in crates, without water, living in their own waste and being bred over, and over!! As 2 Investigator Pam Zekman reports, the outbreak happened this year with dogs from a local breeder. Puppies for sale at Mittelwest Shepherds in Wonder Lake are either bred on site or imported from Germany. And my only thought he was gonna die. Mittelwest's owner Julie Martinez blamed the German breeder that the puppy originally came from. It's not something that could have been foreseen," said Martinez. McHenry County Animal Control reports include a violation warning for "failing to provide veterinary care" for two puppies. It gave the breeder 24 hours to take the puppies to a veterinarian. They were taken to the vet and tested positive for parvo the next day. Experts say getting puppies with parvo symptoms to a vet fast is critical because it's highly contagious. Seven puppies in one litter all died at Mittelwest this year. In all CBS 2 can confirm more than a dozen puppies got parvo. In February, the Illinois Department of Agriculture placed a quarantine on the facility that meant none of the dogs or puppies could be moved or sold. That quarantine was lifted 18 days later by the Department of Agriculture due to the puppies "not showing any signs or symptoms" and Mittelwest "being cleaned and disinfected. But, Megan Swiechichowski purchased her puppy after the quarantine. Three days later it tested positive for parvo. Martinez says she believes Megan's puppy got a false positive, but agreed to pay for the vet bills and refund half Megan's money and all of the Barry's. She also says she routinely provides vet care. Inspectors revisited Mittelwest last week and found no evidence of parvo. More from CBS News.

You may think it'll be six months or a year before your pal outgrows his puppy ways, but Labs don't show signs of complete maturity until they're about 3 years old. Size Although Labs can vary in height and weight according to genetics and diet, a sign that your Lab is nearing maturity is that he reaches his full height. Usually full height is reached at 1 year of age, but your dog may still appear gangly and awkward—much like a teenager. His frame will fill out with muscle and bone in his second and third years of life, and he'll achieve a weight of between 65 to 80 pounds. Females are generally slightly smaller, weighing in between 55 and 70 pounds. Chewing Puppies chew to explore their environment, exercise their teeth and relieve tension in their jaws. As your Lab ages, the voracious chewing that once encompassed the aluminum siding on your house will subside. A sign of maturity in your Lab is his ability to refrain from chewing everything in the house. Be warned, however, that even a fully mature Lab may chew if left alone for hours or underexercised. Labs need at least an hour or two of full-blown activity daily and enjoy the companionship of their pack—meaning you. Chewing past the age of 2 years is usually a sign that your dog's needs aren't being met. Sexual Maturity A Lab is capable of breeding before he or she is fully physically and mentally mature. Humping, urinating often and aggressively holding down other dogs are signs of sexual maturity. If you do not plan to breed your Lab, ask your vet about the best time to get your pet spayed or neutered. This helps reduce the pet population and also confers some health benefits. Mental Maturity When your Lab reaches 3 or 4 years of age, he is generally considered mentally mature. He will show signs such as following a very specific routine and showing increased affection. Although Labs remain active most of their lives, your mature dog may spend more time on the couch or his bed than he spends jumping around eagerly to get your attention. More Articles. They are almost square in appearance, with a strong body and sturdy legs. The maximum height for a male is 24 inches, which puts them in the medium-size dog category, but their sturdy build can make them seem much larger. Weights range from 85 pounds for a large male to 55 pounds for a smaller female. Field line bred dogs are often taller and somewhat thinner in build. Labrador retrievers are easily recognized by their broad head, drop ears and large, expressive eyes. Two trademarks of the Lab are the thick but fairly short double coat, which is very water repellent, and the well known "otter tail. The feet are described as "webbed," with longer skin between the toes to aid in swimming. The Labrador retriever is a moderately fast maturing breed, reaching adult height from six to 12 months, but possibly still filling out up to 2 years of age. Many Labs reach 12 to 14 years of age. Personality: In general, Labrador retrievers are excellent family dogs, as long as you keep in mind their need for exercise and training. These are dogs bred to work and work hard and they love to have jobs to do, particularly retrieving. Labs are usually good with other dogs, other pets, and children as long as training has toned down their natural exuberance. They are strong dogs and need some obedience training at an early age or they can be seen dragging their owners down the street at will. Owing to their energetic nature, Labradors who are left alone or not well exercised can become destructive — chewing, digging and barking to excess. The field line dogs are especially high-energy dogs, while some of the show line dogs become perfect couch potatoes at an early age. Chewing can be a problem because the strong retrieve urge gives them an oral fixation. Sturdy chew toys, exercise and training all help with this. Living With: Obviously, Labradors have a number of endearing traits or they would not be so popular. They are intelligent and fairly easy to train, partly from their desire to work with people. They are "easy keepers" and can become overweight if they are not exercised and food portions adjusted as needed. Labs are excellent family dogs because they do want to be with people and many do not do well as kennel dogs. Labradors do tend to be protective of their families and homes but are usually happy to greet company, too. With the strong retrieving instinct, they can develop into destructive chewers if not given appropriate toys and guidance. Labs may tend to "mouth" people and the solution is often simply to give them a toy to carry around, so their mouths are already full! These are very strong dogs and early training is necessary to have a dog that walks nicely on lead. The wonderful double coat that keeps the Labrador warm while retrieving in icy water also gives this breed top billing as shedders. Normally, their coats do fine with a quick weekly grooming, but at shedding time daily grooming is needed. The amount of exercise they need varies with the different lines: field line dogs can run all day, whereas show line dogs only need moderate exercise. History: Early in the s, some of the multipurpose dogs used in North America mostly Canada by hunters were shipped back to England. Many of these "water dogs" were of the Newfoundland type, but the smaller ones were often designated "St John's" dogs. In England, the breed was developed and refined probably with some flat-coated retriever input into the breed we recognize today. As is evidenced by their name, Labrador retrievers were bred and selected for their outstanding retrieving abilities, particularly in water. They have worked as partners with duck hunters in all kinds of weather and conditions. Their intelligence and desire to work as a partner with man has led to many other jobs, and to their current status as popular pets. Today, Labradors excel as service and guide dogs, family pets, scenting dogs for the military, customs and arson task force dogs, search and rescue dogs as well as hunting companions and performance dogs. The breed's good nature has propelled it to the number one ranking in popularity in America, a position it intends to keep. Despite their fame as indoor pets, they are even more at home outdoors. It should always be remembered that Labradors are water retrievers at heart and from early on, puppies show a strong desire to carry things around with them and a strong attraction to water, even puddles! Related Pet Care Articles. Labrador Retriever Puppy Growth Chart and Development with Pictures Large breed dogs, like Labs, gain weight and grow rather rapidly in their first year. They also develop certain skills at approximately the same time. Lab puppies at this age are entirely dependent on their mother. They are born without teeth, vision, or hearing. The mother Lab will also stimulate them to eliminate and eat their waste to keep her nesting area clean. Most Lab puppies will have their eyes opened at 2 weeks of age, and their ears will begin to open around this time too. This period can be called the awakening of senses, as they are growing to be more conscious and inquisitive. Try to spend some time with each puppy daily, so they get used to being handled. They should not be removed from their litter for more than 10 minutes at a time as this could cause them to miss out on important life lessons. Mama dogs will teach her pups some discipline and dogs that are taken from their mom before this age often suffers from behavioral issues. You should handle them often and can begin basic training. Treat your puppy gently, with no harsh discipline. Your 8-week-old Lab puppy will be able to start sleeping through the night and have better control over its bowel movements. Potty training can be introduced at this age, but you should avoid bringing them to crowded places. Most puppies get their first vaccination before heading to their new homes. You should keep your new puppy away from other dogs until they complete their vaccinations to prevent them from contracting infectious diseases like distemper or parvovirus. Lab puppies eating their dog food At 2 months, Lab puppies should be fed 4 small meals a day. Knowing how much to feed them is key. Your Lab puppy will begin to test you in order to figure out what their position is in the family. Labrador Retriever puppies at 3 months might ignore commands they are familiar with. Some dogs might start nipping. To combat this, direct them to chew appropriate toys instead. Be patient with them and keep reinforcing positive behavior because they will grow out of it soon enough. They are still establishing their role in the pack and might assert their dominance over little children or pets. You can start incorporating other activities like obedience or agility to divert their attention and help them understand their role in the family better. Some dogs will go through another fearful stage at this age. You can help them through it by desensitizing them and being kind and understanding. They are still puppies at this age, after all. They should not be forced to face their fears in hopes they will get used to it. Appropriate exposure with lots of praise, attention, and treats will do the trick. They will have grown into the dog they are meant to be and will have a consistent personality. They should also have settled into a routine and know their place in the family. Following a UK study, Labs grow into their adult weight by their 1-year-old birthday. Mentally, Labradors will stay a puppy till they are 2 or 3 years old, but some never really do grow up. When Do Labs Stop Growing? Lab puppies generally gain 2 lbs 1 kg a week from birth until they are 6 months old. After that, their weight gain tapers off slowly. Most people think that dogs mature at the same age, but small dogs like a Terrier or a Pomeranian might reach adulthood at 9 months of age whereas a Great Dane might fully mature at 3 years of age. It has been noted that they reach their full height at 1 year of age, and their adult weight at 2 years of age. How to weigh a Labrador dog? Weighing your dog is a good way to keep track of its growth. A less strenuous and stressful way to weigh your dog would be to buy a weighing scale for dogs and weigh them regularly. You can incorporate this into your dog training and reward them every time they stay still on a scale. There are reasonably priced pet scales on Amazon but if you do not have a budget for a dog weighing machine, you can get your dog weighed at the vet. This is because muscle weighs more than fat. A chubby-looking Labrador might have the same weight as a lean and strong Lab. Testing Physical Appearance There is a system called BCS or Body Condition Scoring that allows owners and health providers to assess whether their dog is at a healthy weight from a glance. There are 9 levels, with the 1st level representing extreme emaciation, level 5 being optimally fit, and level 9 being life-threateningly obese. However, if they are outside of that spectrum, you might want to consider seeing a specialist as your dog might have some underlying health issues. It can also cause lots of health problems such as joint problems, respiratory or heart diseases, and even cancer. The bad news is that Labradors are prone to obesity due to their genetics. A large portion of the Labrador population has a malfunctioning POMC gene that stops them from being full. Even without the condition, Labs are notoriously greedy! Look at Midnight eating in her dreams: Hyperthyroidism and Insulinoma are disorders that can cause unexplainable weight gain. How to help your Labrador achieve a healthy weight? If they are suffering from certain disorders, you will need to treat them first. If they are simply being fed too much, remove any excess calories from their diet by cutting down treats including table scraps! You can also encourage them to move more through exercise, play, or work. Being too thin is also unhealthy, especially if your puppy is still growing. Weight loss or not being able to gain weight can be caused by worms, illness, or a lack of calories. Active dogs will need to be fed more than those that lead sedentary lifestyles. What you can do is increase their intake and monitor their growth rate. Another commonly asked question is when to fix their male or female Labradors. The general consensus is that you should fix your dog around 6 months, but there are new studies to suggest that early neutering might create more problems for your dog. Another specialized study suggests pet owners to neuter or spay after 37 weeks. This prevents excessive growth that can aggravate hip or joint problems. Will my Lab still grow after being neutered? Depending on when your dog is neutered. If it is neutered after sexual maturity, it will most likely have already reached its adult size and will not grow any taller. However, most neutered pets gain weight much more easily due to a decrease in sex hormones. This will cause their metabolic rate to slow down so you should adjust their diet accordingly. Differences between variations of Labrador Retrievers English Labs are show dogs that are bred to be more heavyset. Therefore, they can be slightly on the heavy side. As for American or working dogs, they are generally more athletic and lighter. Gender also plays a role in their weight, with females nearing the lighter end of the spectrum and males being on the heavier side. Chocolate Labs and White Labs are usually bred for the show ring. It is entirely possible to have an English Fox Red and vice versa for all other colors. Leading a healthy lifestyle will keep your pup healthy. Further reading: Additional puppy growth chart guides. When are Labradors considered adults? Labradors are generally considered adults when they reach about 18 months of age, though not all Labradors have reached their full size or maturity level by this point. However, this age is hotly contested, and many other Labrador owners have differing opinions. Quick Navigation What makes a Labrador an adult? Determining when a Labrador actually becomes an adult is a surprisingly difficult process. The general consensus is that 18 months constitutes adulthood, but there are many people who disagree with this statement. Labradors reach sexual maturity around 6 months. They can also reach physical maturity before reaching the month mark. Who decided that 18 months is the age we would use to separate puppyhood from adulthood? Labradors just grow, and eventually, they become large enough and mature enough that we consider adults. Many people still consider year-olds to be nothing more than glorified kids. This lack of a legally defined age of adulthood makes it extremely difficult to assign a specific age that Labradors become adults. In my opinion, the best way to decide when your Labrador is an adult is to use your own judgment based on their behavior and growth. Differences between Labrador puppies and Labrador adults Puppies are way more inquisitive One of the biggest differences between young Labradors and adult Labradors is that adults have more or less figured out how their small, contained world works. They know which time food is generally laid out, they know which areas are acceptable for sitting, they know where to go or who to bother when they need to go to the bathroom. This can be a problem for your home, especially if your Labrador puppy is an avid chewer. Despite your best efforts, your puppy will inevitably bite, chew, and attempt to swallow everything in its path. It can be tough to deal with if you have expensive furniture or leave your shoes lying around though. Puppies are oblivious to danger The scariest thing about owning a puppy is how oblivious to dangerous situations they are. For example, adult Labradors are less likely to get themselves tangled up in your feet. They are also more mindful of stairwells and are less likely to fall down them and get hurt. While adult Labradors can still have accidents, they are much more likely to hold it in and wait until they get outside to go to the bathroom. Adult Labradors have grown accustomed to the surroundings of your home and therefore look forward to the wild and interesting adventure that is a walk outside. Puppies are more independent Human beings typically become more independent as the years go on. Labrador puppies go through a stage of life called the flight period. This typically occurs between months old, and is characterized by the following behaviors: The puppy runs away and hides when you call them The puppy stays just out of reach of your hand when you reach out to put a leash on them. The puppy attempts to break free of its leash and run away. If you can successfully train your dog to come to your side whenever you want, the stresses of the flight period will be much less severe. This quest for independence only increases when your dog enters the adolescent phase, which typically starts at around 8 months. It might be a good idea to move any fragile valuables to unreachable places, lest your dog knock them over as he flies around the building. Your dog will become defensive and aggressive toward strange men. Your dog will either become afraid of or aggressive toward other dogs. Your dog may stop listening to commands as it vies for the leadership spot in the pack. Just know that their bond with you might not be as strong as a dog who has spent their entire life living with you and learning to trust you. Do other dog breeds take this long to become adults? Labradors are considered a medium-sized dog, which is where the consensus of 18 months until adulthood comes from. Again, there is no hard and fast rule on when your dog is technically an adult. While there are certain milestones you can use to estimate their maturity level, the best way to figure out whether a dog is an adult or not is to examine their behavior and make your own judgment. When do Labradors calm down? If your Lab seems to be acting out, or is refusing to follow commands, you may need to reflect on their training. Sometimes you need to go back to the beginning to move forward. When Do Labradors Mature — Physical Maturity Large breeds like the Labrador Retriever will reach physical maturity somewhere between the ages of 11 and 18 months. This can vary based on genetics, sex, and more. Physical maturity can affect a lot of things, including, the type of food your dog eats. When are Labradors Fully Grown? This question will depend a little on the size of your Lab when fully grown. Even within one breed, adult sizes can vary a lot. Fully grown Labs can range from 55 to 80 pounds in weight, and from .Females are usually smaller than males. Your Lab will usually reach their full grown height and weight at some point between 11 and 18 months old. But, the exact time will depend on their adult size. When Should I Neuter my Lab? This is because, after being neutered, your dog lacks the hormones that would switch off his growth. Studies have shown that early neutering or spaying Labradors before 6 months old can increase their risk of developing joint problems like hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and cranial cruciate ligament tear. Speak to your vet to get the latest information on this topic. Neutering or spaying your dog can have a number of health benefits, including the obvious birth control. This study suggests that neutering a Lab before 6 months old can significantly increase their risk of joint problems. So, you may choose to wait until your Lab is physically mature before you neuter or spay them. Puppy food and adult dog food have very different balances of nutrients. Puppy food will contain higher levels of protein than adult dog food. But, this can vary from dog to dog. Some dogs will still be growing at this age, so should wait a little longer. The best person to advise you about this is your vet. They will be able to offer advice tailored to your specific Lab. Generally, Labradors will usually reach sexual maturity somewhere between 6 and 9 months old. Although, this stage could be later. This means it is very possible for your Lab to get pregnant whilst she is still a puppy. When Can my Labrador Breed? As Labradors can reach sexual maturity from as early as 6 months, some Labradors can technically mate from this young age. When your female Lab has her first heat, it is possible for her to get pregnant. Male Labs will usually start showing interest to females at around this age, so you should assume they can impregnate another dog from this age. Whether you have a male or female Lab, you should avoid breeding them at this age. Female dogs need to be both physically and sexually mature before they are bred. But, they also should not be too old. Ideally, somewhere between 2 and 4 years old is the right age for breeding your Labrador. If you are not looking to breed your Lab, you may wish to talk to your vet about spaying or neutering them after they reach sexual maturity. Just remember the affect this can have on their physical growth, and the risk of joint problems. When do Labradors Mature Mentally? The third type of maturity that will be of interest to Labrador owners is mental maturity. Labs have a reputation for being friendly, affectionate, and eager to please. Lab puppies, like any puppies, can be boisterous, destructive, and bitey. This can lead to stress, exhaustion, and hopelessness in puppy owners. The bad news is that this stage of maturity takes the longest to reach. In fact, some Labs can take up to two years to reach full mental maturity. Labrador puppies are known for their biting phase. But, this stage does pass as your Labrador puppy matures. Some of this biting is down to teething. Lab puppies will usually start teething from around 3 or 4 months old. This stage can last until around 7 months old, when your Lab will have their full set of adult teeth. But, not all biting is due to teething. Puppies will also bite during play. So, practice calm behavior and ignore any biting that does happen. These steps can help to shorten the bitey period. When do Labradors Calm Down? Along with biting, Labrador puppies can seem very boisterous and over-excited, particularly when they are playing with you. So when do Labradors mature and settle down? It can take up to 2 years for Labs to completely mature mentally. This means, boisterous and excitable play can last up to two years. But, there are things you can do whilst your puppy is growing to reduce this boisterous behavior. Make sure to reward your puppy when he or she is calm. This could be when they are entertaining themselves with a toy, or just when they are chilling around your house. This way, your puppy will learn that calm behavior earns them great things! And, they will be more likely to act this way in the future. There may still be times when your Lab seems boisterous, noisy, or over-excitable, even with this tactic. But, it will help calm your pup down before they reach their full mental maturity. Can you tell how big a puppy will get? Your puppy will be growing very fast when you first bring them home. But that growth rate slows down quite quickly. So when do dogs stop growing for good? And how will you know when your puppy has reached their adult size? Labrador Puppy Growth Chart We have a fascinating and long running thread on our forum, where members enter the weights of their puppies at different ages. The Labrador growth chart below shows the data we have collected, in a Labrador weight chart by age. Labrador dog weight chart by age and breed Each dot represents a snapshot in time of an individual puppy. You can find his or her age in weeks along the bottom of the chart and his weight in pounds up the left hand side. You can see how all the dots taken together follow a pattern, but there is still a considerable range of puppy weights at each age. When Do Dogs Stop Growing? But what about a two year old Lab, or a one year old? Well, in broad terms, dogs stop growing sometime between one and two years old. But it varies between breeds. Most dogs are fully grown by their first birthday. In general small breeds reach their adult height several months before large breeds do. Yet dog size varies greatly among individuals, even within the same breed. Larger dogs are often slower to mature than little dogs, and carry on growing for longer. Small dogs are sometimes fully grown by the time they are 9 months old. Whereas giant breeds can take up to three years to reach full size. Adult size, temperament, and coat type are all likely to affect energy requirements, and affect the rate a puppy grows. In fact even breeds which end up similar in size can grow at very different rates. There is very little scientific research — but a lot of anecdotal evidence — about when Lab puppies stop growing. In , a UK study following 37 Lab puppies through to adulthood revealed that all of them had reached their adult weight by their first birthday. But more recently, a much larger lifestyle study of over 4, UK Labradors found that their weight continued to increase between one and four years old. When Do Labs Stop Growing? The Labrador puppy growth chart finishes when the dog reaches adulthood. General wisdom from breeders, vets, and experiences Labrador owners is that Labs stop growing during their second year. In fact, he will be quite close to his final adult Labrador height at around nine months of age. Does color change the Labrador puppy growth chart? When is a chocolate Lab full grown? Is it the same time that a full grown black Labrador or yellow Lab? So your average chocolate Lab will be adult sizes at the same time as the average yellow or black Lab. How Quickly Do Labradors Grow? Our Labrador puppy growth chart shows that all Labrador puppies follow the same breed specific pattern of growth spurts and slower growth, even though the actual numbers on the scale will vary from individual to individual. The most rapid period of growth will take place in the first month or so after you bring him home. In , a study of Labrador puppies in Norway found that Labrador weight gain is most rapid at 89 days old in females, and 95 days old in males. So around the week mark. And Labradors usually reach half of their adult weight by the time they are 18 or 19 weeks old. How much do Labs grow after 6 months? Another trend you can see in our Labrador puppy growth chart is that Lab puppies gain weight much less rapidly after their 6 month birthday. Once your Lab has hit this milestone you can expect them to gain a little height, and probably continue to fill out for up to a year or so. In other words, the point when you Lab stops getting any taller. It is estimated that in the UK the average height at the shoulders of a male Lab is cm taller than the breed standard. Will my dog still grow after being neutered? Whether or not dogs should be routinely spayed or neutered is a subject which divides opinion. Labrador owners deciding whether and when to neuter usually end up with a lot of questions, few of which have straightforward answers. Many veterinary care providers and shelters advocate neutering at a young age, or even make it a requirement of the adoption contract. A study found that neutering before 37 weeks old is linked to very slightly more rapid growth, and neutering after 37 weeks leads to very slightly slower growth. How big do Labrador Retrievers get? As we all know, very few dogs fit the mathematical average — they are much more likely to occupy a range of normal sizes. But most of us like a more precise answer than that before we commit to sharing our home with a puppy. So, how big do Labs get? Labradors are remarkably variable in height and weight. The biggest male Labs can be almost twice the size of the smallest female ones. But you want me to give you some numbers, so here are some averages. Many adult female Labradors reach a weight of lbs and stand inches high at the shoulder. This will be the same whether they are a female chocolate Lab or a female black Labrador. Many adult male Labradors reach a weight of lbs and stand inches at the shoulder. But remember, your dog is probably not an average dog! Can you always predict size with a Labrador puppy growth chart? These Labrador height and weight numbers are very broad guidelines, and they may give you a rough idea of how big a pup will grow. How big your Labrador will get depends partly on his parents. Assuming that your puppy had healthy not overweight parents, their own weights will give you an idea of how big your Lab is likely to grow. But there are always surprises in any group or family of dogs! Has your puppy stalled on the Labrador puppy growth chart? It is possible that your puppy will weigh less than the average examples. Labrador puppy weight and size can vary widely depending on a number of different factors, many of which are normal and harmless. American Labrador puppy growth Labrador puppies from working stock are often less heavy than those bred for the show ring or pet homes. Dogs bred for hunting and field trials tend to be faster and lighter in build because they are expected to be agile and quick when working in the field. Small parents Size is also partly genetic. In other words, if your puppy had small parents he might well be on the small size for his age, throughout his life. Again, this is only a general guide. Even puppies from the same litter can vary quite considerably in size when plotted on a Labrador puppy growth chart. How much should my Labrador puppy weigh? But this kind of rule of thumb is of limited use, and there are problems with judging whether or not a puppy is thriving by his weight alone. Because it is so difficult to know exactly what size your puppy will be as an adult, no-one can really say what he should weigh today, or any other day. It may however give you an indication if your puppy is seriously under or overweight. It is rare for puppies to have any kind of growth disorder. Or for their families to starve them by mistake! But it is also normal to worry a little if your puppy seems on the small side. Is my puppy is too fat or too thin? The very best guide to whether a puppy is the right weight for him, is how he looks and feels. Not where he falls on an average Labrador puppy growth chart. Physically examining and observing your puppy will help you decide if they are doing ok in this respect. Just like older Labradors, puppies should not be too heavy. Most experts nowadays like to see a waist on even quite young puppies. Does it matter if my puppy is a bit plump? We all used to think that puppy fat was a good thing. When I was a child fat puppies were the norm. Perhaps this extra layer of fat was helpful in sustaining the puppy during illness before vaccinations were widely available for dogs? Nowadays, the thinking is that puppies should be slim. With a defined waist, just like an older dog. It causes their bones to grow too rapidly as well. And this may result in painful skeletal abnormalities in later life. Chubby Lab puppies might be plotted higher than average on the Labrador puppy growth chart, but if they are a shorter stature they could be following the line. You need to assess your pup by how they look and feel. Weighing your puppy If your puppy has been ill and is very thin, or if he has become rather overweight , you might consider weighing him in order to monitor his progress on a Labrador puppy growth chart of your own. If you can see his ribs, or feel them very easily just beneath his skin, your Labrador puppy is too thin. If in doubt, check with your veterinarian. You can show them your Labrador puppy growth chart too, so they have a good idea of how they are progressing. My dog weighs 35lbs at six months old. Is that OK? I mentioned above that an average Labrador might weigh around 50lbs at six months old. But there is huge variation around this figure. To illustrate how much very healthy puppies may vary, there are 6 month old Labs on our forum weighing 30lbs, and others weighing 60lbs! These are very different points on the same Labrador puppy growth chart, but could both be healthy animals. And the truth is, no-one can tell you exactly what your six month old pup should weigh, or indeed your Labrador of any age. What age does a puppy turn into a dog? When does a puppy no longer belong on a Labrador puppy growth chart but instead have reached their adult size? And when will your puppy be a fully grown up dog? There are three aspects to changing from puppy to dog: physical maturity and mental maturity. Sexual maturity in puppies People are often surprised to discover that puppies become sexually mature before they are full grown. These sexually mature pups still belong on the Labrador puppy growth chart, and will gain weight and height. Most Labradors are physically capable of breeding while still puppies. Though of course they should not be allowed to do so. Many female Labradors come into season for the first time between at between six and nine months old. Though some will be over a year old. And most male Labradors are ready and willing to mate well before their first birthday! Mental maturity in puppies Not only is your Labrador physically still a puppy when he or she reaches sexual maturity. He is also very much a puppy mentally and emotionally. In fact, many experts do not consider a Labrador to be fully grown up and mature until they are around two years old. In practice, there is no exact age at which you can definitely say your puppy is a grown up. Some puppies mature mentally and physically quicker than others. As a broad guide, you will often hear people use 18 months as the divide between Labrador puppy and adult dog. When do dogs stop growing? Most Labradors will have completed much of their growth by their first birthday and will stop growing completely before their second. Beyond this point there is no need to plot their weight on a Labrador puppy growth chart, but instead they should just be monitored physically. Weights vary greatly among individuals of this breed and puppy weight unless very extreme, is not a great guide to health. Enjoy your puppy for what he is, large Labrador or small. Just remember to check with your vet if you think he is unwell or not growing as he should. Is your Labrador puppy still growing? Do you think the runt of the litter is going to surprise you by reaching the upper end of the scale? Were your predictions at X months completely confounded? Share your anecdotes in the comments box down below! In terms of friendliness, affection, intelligence, and loyalty, this breed is hard to beat. A non-aggressive nature, a playful and exuberant disposition, an eager-to-please attitude, and a love of people has endeared the Labrador to thousands of dedicated enthusiasts. What you may not be aware of is that while Labs are absolutely wonderful companions, it can take a while for them to reach that point. Actually, quite a while. When do Labradors mature? Labs will reach physical maturity by 18 months. Sexual maturity will occur between months 6 .Though some maturity will be noted before age 2, a Lab will usually take 2 to 4 years to reach full mental maturity, and by the age of 5, a Lab should be well mannered, calm, and a joy to own. No more puppy issues! No more chewing slippers! Not going to happen. Your Lab will go through several developmental phases, some more drawn out than others, before becoming fully mature. Still, maturity in Labs can be difficult to measure, because, in some ways, a part of them always seems to retain some endearing puppy characteristics. Physical Maturity Most Labs will be close to their final height by around the 9-month mark. By 12 months of age, a Lab has reached his full height. Until about 18 months, a Lab will continue to add muscle and fat to his frame and fill out quite a bit, leaving behind that gangly, adolescent look. Generally, English Labs have a stockier appearance, a broader head with a shorter muzzle, a thicker coat, and are slightly more laid-back than their American counterparts. American Labs have a finer bone structure, more slender appearance, and narrower, longer muzzles. Fun fact: English Labs are more commonly seen in the show ring while American Labs are used more extensively in field trials due to their athleticism and above-average enthusiasm, but both types are Labradors through and through. Sexual Maturity Anytime between the ages of 6 -9 months both male and female dogs become sexually mature, capable of producing a litter. Be sure to speak with your veterinarian about having your Lab spayed or neutered. Large breeds like Labs take longer to mature physically, sexually, and mentally, but Labs, in particular, are famous for taking an extra-long time to finally grow up and calm down a little. Brace yourself, because the answer here may be far from what you were expecting. While defiance, limit testing, and destruction should be on a downward trend by the second year, a 2-year-old Lab is still very much a puppy and will have a ton of energy. Labs who are between 2 and 4 years of age usually have an unrivaled zest for life and are always ready for action. For this reason, a sturdy crate is highly recommended until your Lab is fully mature and trustworthy enough to be left on his own in the house. By the fifth year, most Labs will be well behaved, calm, obedient companions with lower energy levels and a true desire to please their owners. Destructive behavior will begin to subside, not everything will still be viewed as a game, less time will be spent roughhousing, and more time will be spent relaxing. Puppy and adolescent behaviors such as stealing shoes, testing the limits, and outright defiance will be gradually replaced by a more calm demeanor and trustworthy behavior. Will the Teething and Chewing Ever End? Take heart! Unfortunately, no. Labradors, by nature, are a mouthy, orally fixated breed. They were, after all, bred to retrieve for hours on end, using their mouths to carry back downed waterfowl and fish a long time ago to their masters. When playing outside, many Labs will constantly have something in their mouths such as a stick, pine cone, ball, anything will do really. Socks, shoes, remotes, table legs, the list goes on and on have you ever seen Marley and Me? Training your Lab what is acceptable and what is an absolute no-no is crucial. Related Posts:. Save to Pinterest The Stages of Puppy Growth and Development Month by Month The following are the stages of puppy growth and development, starting at birth and ending when your dog reaches adulthood. The Neonatal Stage 0 to 2 weeks This is the newborn puppy growth stage that lasts until two weeks of age. At this developmental stage, puppies are blind and deaf. Expect puppies at this point to sleep almost constantly and their mother will take care of everything, keeping them warm, feeding them, and keeping them clean. The Transitional Stage 2 to 4 weeks At this puppy growth stage , they will start to open up their eyes and respond to sounds, light, and movement around them. You will also notice a puppy at this point starting to get more mobile, although they will still tend to crawl instead of walking. They do, however, have enough strength to stand up, but will stumble a lot. A puppy in this developmental stage will just be starting to recognize their siblings and mother. Lab puppies open their eyes at about two weeks old. By this time, Labrador puppies will have their eyes fully open and most will be at least partly open. Ears open at this point too and your puppy will begin to hear. Period of Awakening of Senses 3 to 4 weeks At this period , a puppy develops various senses rapidly. They start to get fully alert and aware of their environment and may recognize you and other humans that are frequently around. The Socialization Period 4 to 7 Weeks Once a puppy is around four weeks old, they start to learn the most important things in life-related to social development. They will learn to not bite all the time and how to interact with their siblings. Interactions with humans are especially important between five and seven weeks. This is also the time they will start to understand discipline thanks to their mother. She will start weaning her puppies and teaching them manners, like acknowledging she is in charge. As the owner, you can start introducing food to your puppy when they are around four weeks old. Start small and begin to give them more food as the mother continues to wean them. You should also continue handling the puppy every day. However, be sure not to separate them from their siblings or mother for over ten minutes each day, since this can lead to issues with training and socialization. Dogs who are separated too soon may also be nervous and more likely to bark and bite. During this period, let the mother dog take care of discipline; you should not correct the dog for mouthing or housebreaking mistakes until later in life. To help ease them through this process, avoid traumatic events, loud voices, or harsh discipline. You should also make sure your pooch has plenty of human contact during this stage. If you want, you can start leash training and even teach simple commands such as sit, down, stay and come. In terms of development, you will notice that your puppy can sleep through the whole night and starts to develop better control of its bowels and bladder. Most vets suggest that new outings should wait until they are fully vaccinated. We rub the Calmeroos Puppy Toy on littermates and mom to get their scent. When we get home the Calmeroos Puppy Toy helps our puppy feel comfortable and adjust more quickly to his new environment. Many puppies will go to their new homes at around 8 weeks old. We recently put together a blog post on our sister site detailing what you can expect from an 8-week-old puppy. The Juvenile Stage 3 to 4 Months At this point in development, a puppy can be compared to a juvenile. They will be more independent and may ignore the basic commands that they know very well. If this happens, firmly and gently reinforce the commands and other training. You may also notice your pup starting to test your authority by play biting or similar actions. You can also redirect your dog to a toy that they can bite. Either can end up teaching your pooch that it is okay to fight with you and challenge your authority. The Ranking Period 3 to 6 Months When your puppy is between four and six months old, you should expect them to be somewhat bratty, showing more willfulness and independence. They are more likely to test your limits and may try to show dominance over children or other family members. If they fail to listen to you or come when called, it can be dangerous as it puts them at risk of injury when in public. It can also hurt future responses to you, making them less likely to listen. This is also when your dog will be teething, so give them toys like frozen dog Kong toys to relieve pressure and pain. Chewing behaviors will also start growing at this point so look for some safe chew toys to keep your dog entertained. This is when hormonal changes start to occur and is the ideal time to spay or neuter your pup. UC Davis published a study comparing the long-term health effects of neutering in Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers. Adolescence 6 to 18 Months After six months, your pup is already in the final stage of puppy development but is still young. This is a fun and exciting time for your pooch since they will be learning, full of energy, and exuberant. During this time, it is important to remember that even if your puppy now looks like a grown-up dog, they are still a puppy, at least in its mental capacity and emotional maturity. Work to slowly increase training and other activities. You can even work on advanced training such as agility or herding. Another option is to simply keep training them to ensure they interact in a non-aggressive and non-threatening way with other animals. It is also possible that your dog will go through another fearful period of time at some point after they reach six months. You can speed up the process with counter-conditioning and desensitization. It fits very well and is quite apt! Final Thoughts With the knowledge of how and when your new puppy will develop, you are better able to meet their needs. Provide socialization at the appropriate times and be sure to give your puppy plenty of social interactions with their siblings as well as humans and any other pets in your home. Your dog should reach maturity at some point between one and two years old with plenty of variation based on breed, Labradors are considered mature at between 2 and 2. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining.