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We have answers. We are absolutely committed to full transparency at Uptown. Only the very best Las Vegas French Bulldog breeders and businesses get into our network, and they provide full health and behavioral histories for each pup. So you know exactly what you are getting when you connect with French Bulldog breeders in Las Vegas in our network. What will my French Bulldog puppy be like? French Bulldogs are little dogs with big heads that give them an incredibly cute appearance. French Bulldog puppies for sale Las Vegas are friendly, fun, and adorable. They get on well with everyone, and they are companion dogs too, which means they love nothing more than spending lots of time with their owners. Is there a reason why French Bulldogs are expensive? When you look for French Bulldog puppies for sale in Las Vegas, they can cost more than other breeds. This is because their narrow hips mean they need to be artificially inseminated, and C-sections are needed to deliver pups. This extra skill and work involved leads to the additional expense when you buy a Las Vegas French Bulldog for sale. How can I find a puppy in the Uptown Network? Just search for a French Bulldog Las Vegas, find the available litters, and connect with the breeder. Once you have connected, you can start to make arrangements with them and you could soon be meeting your gorgeous new puppy. Can I go and pick up my new puppy in person? If you find a French Bulldog for sale Las Vegas nearby and find your perfect puppy, simply make arrangements with the breeder and you may be able to pick up your pup in person. But even if your new puppy is over the other side of the country, the breeder can make travel arrangements, so you can meet them at your nearest major US airport. Is this a place where I can find the cheapest puppies? The French Bulldog breeders Las Vegas in our network are the best of the best. They provide a boutique service and they all have incredibly high breeding standards. You can certainly choose a shelter dog, and we are not anti-shelter at all. The most important thing is that you get a dog from a humane and responsible source. But if you want a purebred French Bulldog for sale in Las Vegas or a dog with particular character traits, you may find it easier to use Uptown. How do I know that my new pup is going to be healthy? Because all the breeders in our network provide complete health checks for their French Bulldog puppies in Las Vegas. They will check your puppy's fur, eyes, mouth, skin, ears, and everything else for their French Bulldogs for sale in Las Vegas. What exercise requirements to French Bulldogs have? Compared to other breeds, their exercise needs are low. A short walk each day is recommended, so keep that in mind when you look for Las Vegas French Bulldogs for sale. And they will probably have some more energy to play at home. But other than that, they are happy to relax with their owners. Will my Frenchie pup be quick to learn commands? Many people look for French Bulldogs for sale Las Vegas because these are dogs that love to please their owners. They will love the attention you give them during training, but they can be slightly stubborn. Just be patient, and you will find that your Frenchie puppy will pick up new commands without any problems. No Comments If you are looking for the best quality French Bulldog puppy breeder in Nevada state, you are at the right place. The French Bulldogs are renowned for being easy-going, mischievous, and snuggly. Moreover, since French Bulldogs are polite and adaptable, many city folks have discovered that they make a great addition to their family. However, as long as their family is nearby, these dogs are willing to live anywhere. However, it must be difficult to locate a reliable French Bulldog breeder in Nevada. I believe that this article will assist you in getting your little buddy with minimal difficulty. You can consider RedRock Frenchies as your final destination to get your little buddy. They strive to produce purebred French Bulldogs. They raise not only a little pooch for you, they literally rear your future family member. There is no doubt that the French Bulldog is a special breed of dog breed. RedRock Frenchies makes sure the health history of the breeding line is neat and clean. They also provide all kinds of legal documents and history paper works of the puppy to ensure their authenticity. RedRock Frenchies has been in the breeding business for 10 years. So, you can rest assured that your little furry friend is in the right hand. The ultimate goal of the farm is to produce happy, playful, and healthy Frenchie Bulls for you. They do not hesitate to provide the best facilities for all their dogs. Their ultimate goal is to share their love for pets through the business. So, if you are in search of a French pup, you can undoubtedly give them a knock. They have been in this field for almost 20 years breeding rare-sized and colored Frenchies. They make sure all the parent dogs come with impressive pedigrees. For breeding Frenchies, they consider different factors like the temperament of the pup, top-notch genetic background, the structure of the puppy, conformation, and so on. All puppies come with a health guarantee for all genetic and structural defects, a comprehensive puppy package, potty training, and lifetime support. Puppy owners are welcome to visit after their puppies have received their first vaccination. There is always a long line for such beautiful dogs. So, if you want one of these pups, hurry up!

Here at Blue Frenchies US, we strive to breed quality, healthy, loving French Bulldogs to provide to loving, forever family homes around the country. Hi and welcome to our website from the team at Blue Frenchies US. We specialise in breeding beautiful, healthy Blue French Bulldog puppies. We offer a nationwide delivery service chargeable and have delivered several puppies around the country, including Boston, Chicago, Texas and New York City. As breeders we have over 10 years experience breeding French Bulldogs and have been involved in the breeding of over 80 puppies. After visiting a friend in the UK, we fell in love with their French Bulldogs and knew we had to have one! We visited the UK for a couple of litters to learn how the breeding and whelping process works in preparation for starting Blue Frenchies US. We welcomed our first litter in at the beginning of the covid pandemic and our reputation is quickly building. Our puppies are brought up in a busy family home, around other dogs and plenty of family including children and friends. Our dogs are our pets and receive the upmost love and attention every day of the year and are constantly the stars of the show whether we have guests at home or are out on walks. Our dogs live inside, year round. When breeding, we go the extra mile to ensure that from as early as insemination, all the way until the day our puppies leave to their new forever homes, it is the most relaxed, comfortable and clean experience for our dogs and puppies. We hope you enjoy our website and find everything helpful. If you have any questions, click the contact us link at the top of any page or call us via the numbers on the contact us page. Get in touch for more information. Here at Blue Frenchies UK, we strive to breed quality, champion bloodline, healthy, loving French Bulldogs to provide to loving, forever family homes around the country. Hi and welcome to our website from the team at Blue Frenchies UK. We are located in Lancashire, less than 10 miles outside of Manchester city centre. We specialise in breeding beautiful, champion, healthy French Bulldogs and we offer a nationwide UK doorstep delivery service as standard. Some 14 months after our beloved family dog of 10 years sadly passed away, we encountered a French Bulldog out on a walk and instantly fell in love. After months of in-depth research and preparation we decided we were ready to resume breeding and carefully found our first French Bulldog, Skyler. We welcomed our first litter in April and with a reputation quickly building, our puppies are in huge demand. Our puppies are brought up in a busy family home, around other dogs and plenty of family including children and friends. Our dogs are our pets and receive the upmost love and attention every day of the year and are constantly the stars of the show whether we have guests at home or are out on walks. Our dogs live inside, year round. When breeding, we go the extra mile to ensure that from as early as insemination, all the way until the day our puppies leave to their new forever homes, it is the most relaxed, comfortable and clean experience for our dogs and puppies. We hope you enjoy our website and find everything helpful. If you have any questions, click the contact us link at the top of any page. Get in touch for more information. Me What is a Blue French Bulldog? A blue French bulldog is a variation of the French bulldog breed, known for its distinctive blue-gray coat color. French bulldogs are a popular breed of domestic dogs, known for their small size, muscular build, and wrinkled faces. The blue coat color is a result of a genetic mutation that results in a dilution of the black pigment in their fur, giving it a blue-gray appearance. What makes them blue? The blue coat color in blue French bulldogs is the result of a genetic mutation that dilutes the black pigment in their fur. This mutation affects the melanin pigment in the hair follicles, resulting in a blue-gray appearance. The mutation is caused by a recessive gene, which means that a blue French bulldog must inherit two copies of the gene one from each parent in order to express the blue coat color. Are Blue Frenchies really blue? Blue French bulldogs are not actually blue in color. The blue coat color is a misnomer, and these dogs are actually gray-blue or silver in appearance. The blue color is the result of a dilution of the black pigment in their fur, which gives it a bluish hue. Silver Blue: This is a lighter shade of blue that is similar to silver color. Dark Blue: This is a deeper, almost black, shade of blue. Blue Brindle: This is a blue coat with a brindle pattern, which is characterized by streaks of dark fur interspersed with lighter fur. Blue Fawn: This is a blue coat with a fawn-colored undercoat, giving the dog a blue-gray appearance with a lighter underbelly. French bulldogs are known for being friendly, affectionate, and playful. They are typically good with children and other pets and make great companions for families and individuals alike. They are also relatively low-maintenance in terms of exercise needs, making them a good choice for apartment living or for people with limited time for dog walking. Grooming Grooming your blue French bulldog is important for maintaining its health and appearance. Brush your dog regularly to remove loose hair and reduce shedding. Use a slicker brush or a rubber brush to remove tangles and mats. Bathe your blue Frenchie as needed, using a dog-specific shampoo. Be careful to avoid getting soap in their eyes or ears, and rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residue. Use a cotton ball or soft cloth to gently clean the inside of their ears. Brush his teeth regularly to maintain their oral health and prevent tooth decay and gum disease. Blue Frenchies get on well with children Blue French bulldogs generally get along well with children. French bulldogs are known for being friendly, affectionate, and playful, and they tend to be good with children. They have a gentle and patient temperament, making them a great choice for families with kids. Size Blue French bulldogs are a small breed of dog and typically weigh between 16 and 28 pounds, with males being larger than females. They stand 11 to 13 inches tall at the shoulder. However, French bulldogs are generally a compact and muscular breed with a short, stocky build, and are well-proportioned for their size Lifespan The lifespan of a blue French bulldog is typically 10 to 12 years. Like all dogs, the lifespan of a blue French bulldog can be influenced by several factors, including genetics, diet, and overall health. A French bulldog can appear blue due to a genetic dilution of the black pigment in their coat, causing a blue-grey hue to appear. Are Blue Frenchies rare? Yes, Blue Frenchies are considered a rare coat color and therefore may be more expensive and difficult to find. What is the temperament of a blue French Bulldog? The temperament of a blue French Bulldog can vary, but generally, they are friendly, playful, and affectionate dogs. They are known to be loyal companions and are good with children. Why should I choose Tomkings Kennel? We at TomKings Kennel are committed to the health, well-being, and responsible breeding of French Bulldogs. We put the needs of our animals first, and strive to produce healthy and well-adjusted pets that are well-suited to their new homes. We test our breeding dogs for genetic health issues and work to prevent the spread of inherited diseases. We also provide proper veterinary care for our dogs, including regular check-ups and vaccinations. We carefully plan our breeding programs to produce healthy, well-adjusted offspring. We also limit the number of litters our females produce to ensure that each animal receives the proper care and attention. We provide our dogs with clean, safe, and comfortable living conditions. We also provide our pups with regular exercise and socialization opportunities. We are transparent and open in our communication with potential Frenchie owners. We are happy to answer all your questions and provide information about our breeding practices and the care we provide to our puppies. We have a deep love and commitment to the French Bulldog breed and we work to promote and protect the health and well-being of the breed as a whole.

Life Span Did You Know? The Boxador is a designer mixed dog breed that is a cross between a Boxer and a Labrador Retriever. They are sometimes also called a Boxer Lab Mix, although Boxador tends to be a more popular term. Because this is not an established purebred dog, the Boxador is not recognized by the American Kennel Club, but they are still recognized by other official organizations. With mixed breed puppies, you can get any combination of the physical characteristics and character traits of the parent breeds. A Boxador puppy could take completely after their Boxer parent or their Lab parent or could be some combination of both. In general, Boxadors tend to be intelligent, friendly, energetic, and loving. Overall, these dogs tend to make a great addition to a family. Both the Boxer and the Labrador are known for their happy-go-lucky, friendly temperament. They also have a playful spirit and are known for getting along well with children, other dogs, and other pets. In general, the Boxador tends to have a similar temperament. Playtime with small children should be supervised as these dogs will grow into large, energetic dogs and small children can be knocked over by their excitedly wagging tails and energetic play. They tend to be loyal, friendly, and playful and love spending time with their families. Due to the hunting instinct in the parent breeds, a Boxador may have a high prey drive and enjoy chasing things. Boxadors tend to be highly adaptable dogs. They do tend to be a better fit for larger homes with a fenced-in backyard where they can run. However, as long as they receive plenty of exercise, mental stimulation, and attention, they can adapt well to apartment living. As with many dog breeds, they are sensitive to extreme heat and can be sensitive to cold. But, overall, this dog breed does well in just about any climate. They love to be around their families and have a high energy level, so they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. Mixed dog breeds can inherit some, all, or none of the potential health issues present in their parent breeds. When it comes to the Boxador, they are a relatively healthy breed. Some of the potential health conditions to be aware of include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, cataracts, and heart conditions. Asking the breeder about the genetic history of the parent breeds and to see any relevant health clearances can help allay potential concerns about health you may have. Both the Boxer and the Lab are highly intelligent dog breeds that are eager to please their owners, which makes them both highly trainable. You can expect your Boxador to be highly trainable as well. These dogs respond well to positive training techniques and are a good fit for owners of any experience level. Although it tends not to be necessary with this breed, enrolling in puppy training and obedience classes is an added bonus and can offer some extra opportunities for socialization. Boxadors usually have a short and dense coat. They will shed moderately year-round and more heavily twice a year as the seasons change. Generally, brushing their coat a few times a week is sufficient. This will help keep your dog more comfortable and will keep some of the loose fur contained to the brush instead of all of around your house. In terms of bathing, these dogs only require the occasional bath or more often as needed if they have gotten dirty or have been swimming. Dental care for dogs is especially important. Both of the parent breeds of this designer dog breed are high-energy, so you should expect your Boxador to have a high energy level as well. In addition to regular daily walks and playtime, your Boxador may enjoy running with you, going for a swim, going hiking with you, and taking trips to the dog park. They also are a good fit for several canine sports like dock diving, agility, and more. Their joints are still developing before this age and can be damaged by strenuous exercise. A fully-grown Boxador will usually stand 20 to 25 inches tall at the shoulder and weigh 55 to 80 pounds. A Boxador generally lives 10 to 14 years. Boxador Puppies for Sale. The Boxer Lab mix is playful, energetic, loyal and loving. Boxador puppies are known for being intelligent and enthusiastic dogs. But their spirited temperament is not right for every family setup. Watch these cute Boxer Lab mix puppies playing! The boxer lab mix, also known as the Boxador, is a hybrid of the Boxer and the Labrador Retriever breeds. Compared to its parent breeds, the Boxador mix itself is very new. But, its parents have long histories living and working alongside humans. Labs originated as working dogs, retrieving game for fishermen in Newfoundland, Canada. When they were first bred in 19th century Germany, Boxers were used as fighting dogs. Boxer Lab Mix Characteristics With cross breeds it is often hard to predict which parent a puppy will resemble. Boxers can weigh up to 80lbs and reach 25 inches tall. Labradors are similarly large. Boxador full grown tend to be between 23 and 25 inches tall and weigh up to 80lbs. Although females are smaller than males. Regardless of the mix of your genes your pup ends up with, your Boxer Lab Mix dog is likely to be a medium to large dog, active, loyal, easy to train and very fond of challenges — of both the physical and mental kind! Boxers are fawn or brindle. Often with white patches. Their offspring can be any mixture of these! The Boxador is usually brindle, and these dogs often have white markings. If you want a black Lab Boxer mix, your puppy will likely still have some white on them. Your best bet is to mix a black Lab with a dark Boxer. But, even a black Lab Boxer mix can have unpredictable coloring, despite the dominant genes for black fur. Do Boxer Lab Mixes Shed? When it comes to coat, the Boxer Lab mix usually takes after its Boxer parent. These pups typically have short, smooth hair that sheds very little and is easy to care for. However if your Boxador dog has more Labrador in its genes you might have to deal with some shedding. Thankfully this is usually seasonal and can be kept in check with regular grooming. Are Boxadors Hypoallergenic? The Boxer Lab mix might have a short coat, but it is likely to be a high shedder at least part of the time. They produce allergens in their dander and saliva, and are not suitable for dog allergy suffering owners. Boxador Temperament The Boxer Lab mix will fall somewhere between its parents. But, luckily, the Labrador and Boxer breeds have quite similar temperaments. Both Boxers and Labradors are very loving and loyal. They think nothing of climbing on their people for a cuddle, despite their large size! Both Boxers and Labradors are usually great with older children. They are considered gentle giants and will eagerly run after little ones. Although they have been known to accidentally bowl over smaller family members in their excitement. Labradors also love playing with canine companions, but Boxers are less reliable in this area. Poorly socialized Boxers can be prone to aggression towards strangers and other dogs. Boxers are instinctive guardians and proud to play the role of family protector. But you can reduce this through thorough socialization during the puppy stages and by meeting the Boxer parent and ensuring that they seem happy and confident around strangers. Even the most friendly breed, like the Labrador, will benefit. Finding them puppy friends to play with will encourage them to be calm and docile with other dogs when fully grown. Attending puppy classes is a great way to do this. But, make sure you also socialize them to unfamiliar people, children, cats, other animals, and more. This will ensure your Boxador dog is as friendly outside the home as he is inside. They require a lot of exercise and enjoy running around with the family or playing a game of fetch. This can result in unwanted behaviors like barking, digging, or chewing. But, be wary of a shorter snout in the Boxador. Boxers suffer from a conformity issue called brachycephaly, which can cause trouble breathing and overheating when exercising. Use positive reward techniques for best results. You could even take your mix to a puppy training class, or attend an online dog training class. Boxador Health and Care Genetic diversity is improved in a cross breed compared with the parent breeds and the coefficient of inbreeding COI is much lower. Put simply, the COI of any mating describes how closely related the parent dogs are. Higher COIs are associated with an increase in health problems. The risk of this happening is lower if the puppies parents are not closely related. There are however, some health issues that are not recessive and can be passed on from just one parent. And there are common ancestors in some of our dog breeds that mean some diseases are present in both breeds. For that reason it is still possible that a cross bred dog could inherit genetic health problems. Labrador Health Labradors are not without their issues. This breed can suffer from hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia. It can cause lameness and severe arthritic pain. Another issue to be aware of in Labs is eye disease. Retinal dysplasia was first noted in the breed in .Progressive Retinal Atrophy is a degenerative eye disease that is common in Labs. Only buy your puppy from a breeder who health tests the parents for all the potential problems their respective breeds could suffer from. Boxer Health A study found that Boxers are one of the most likely breeds to get cancer. According to Petplan, mast cell tumors are the 5th most common illness in Boxers. This breed is unfortunately also associated with heart disease. Aortic Stenosis is the most common major problem in the breed. The causes are not known but it is genetic and passed along certain bloodlines. ARVC affects males more than females and is most common in dogs older than .Symptoms include coughing, difficulty breathing and weight loss. Boxers can also suffer from Canine Degenerative Myelopathy. This is a neurodegenerative disease that can cause paralysis. Unfortunately more is not necessarily better and brachycephaly causes breathing difficulties and overheating It may be that being the Boxador rather than a purebred Boxer offers some protection against these diseases. It certainly reduces the skull shortening we see in brachycephalic breeds. This is a bit of a two edged coin because while the Boxer physique may benefit from a longer muzzle, the Labrador physique is unlikely to be improved with a shorter one. Reputable breeders will only breed from dogs that have been tested and cleared of these serious hereditary health problems. To give your pup a long and healthy life, make sure he gets plenty of exercise, a balanced diet and regular vet check-ups. Boxador Life Expectancy Labrador Retrievers have a lifespan of years. And, on average, Boxers live around years So in theory you can expect Boxer Labrador mix puppies to reach anywhere between 9 and 12 years old. In practice studies tend to find that crossbred dogs in general, live longer on average than most purebred dogs. But we currently have no evidence that this is the case for the Boxador in particular. Only you can decide if the Boxer Lab mix is the right fit for your home. These are large dogs with big hearts that will give as much as they take. Boxadors love being part of a family. They are great with children and enthusiastic playmates for families with school age children and up. But this cross breed needs lots of exercise. They are fiercely attached to their people and dislike being left for long periods of time. This is a dog that suits a family with an active lifestyle and lots of love to give. Boxer Lab Mix Rescue Adopting a shelter dog always comes with risk. But Boxadors in shelters need homes and rescuing puppies or older dogs can be very rewarding. Labrador and Boxer breed rescues also sometimes have crossbreeds available. Dogs from adoption centers are usually much cheaper than puppies. But, remember you may need to spend lots of time helping them work through behavioral issues from past experiences. Finding Your Boxador Puppy Never buy a dog from a puppy mill or pet store. Or from the back of a vehicle. Always visit the puppy in his own home in the presence of his mother, who should be relaxed, healthy and friendly. Sadly with any very fashionable breed, or breed mix, there are many out there who are just looking to make a quick buck. Socialize your Boxador very thoroughly, exposing him to all kinds of fun experiences and making sure that he meets many different types of people, places, machinery etc. Given Boxadors intelligent nature and working history, get started on training your dog right away. Boxador Breeders It can be challenging to find a responsible breeder of cross breeds as there is currently quite a stigma against mixed breeding in the dog world. You must ask to see those certificates — they are very important. The parent dogs must have been screened for any genetic diseases and the breeder should be very forthcoming with any questions. Kid-Friendly: Needs a home with kids over 12 years This sweet girl came to the rescue in need of bowel obstruction surgery after she thought a sock was a yummy snack. She made it through surgery and has been recovering nicely! Bella Vida is quite shy and a bit hesitant to open up to new people, so she is looking for a patient family that will give her time and let her know she is safe. Bella Vida is selective with her dog friends and may do better with male dogs. She is looking for a house with no small children and would thrive with an active family with older kids. Bella Vida loves to go on daily walks and will play fetch for hours! She will always follow up these play sessions with a cuddle session on the couch. She loves deconstructing stuffed toys and sometimes her bedding. We would recommend caution in allowing Bella Vida unsupervised access to toys due to her recent sock-eating debacle. Due to our thorough adoption process including home visits, we limit our adoptions to local families in the greater Charlotte area.

Things to do with your English Bulldog Ohio is a great place to live with an English bulldog. The state has a diverse landscape, plenty of outdoor activities, and dog-friendly businesses. Hike the Trails Hiking is a great way to get some exercise and enjoy the outdoors. There are many hiking trails in Ohio that are perfect for English bulldogs. Be sure to bring plenty of water and snacks for your dog, and take breaks often. Visit a Campground Camping is another great way to enjoy the outdoors with your English bulldog. There are many campgrounds in Ohio that allow dogs. Be sure to bring a tent, sleeping bags, food, water, and other supplies. There are many places to fish in Ohio, both in fresh water and salt water. Be sure to get a fishing license and follow all the rules and regulations. Go Boating Boating is another great way to enjoy the outdoors with your English bulldog. There are many places to boat in Ohio, both on rivers and lakes. Be sure to bring a life jacket for your dog and follow all the safety rules. There are many places to swim in Ohio, both in fresh water and salt water. Be sure to supervise your dog at all times and follow all the safety rules. Visit a Dog park Dog parks are a great place for English bulldogs to run and play off-leash. There are many dog parks in Ohio, both in urban and rural areas. Visit Pet-Friendly Businesses Ohio has a number of pet-friendly businesses, including restaurants, hotels, and stores. These are just a few of the many things you can do with your English bulldog in Ohio. With its stunning scenery, endless activities, and friendly people, Ohio is the perfect place to create lasting memories with your furry friend. How do you breed for a healthier English Bulldog? Like all things in life, breeding for health is simply a matter of priority. We are blind to many of the breed priorities that distract other breeders from improving the health of the English Bulldog. We focus on health and personality and very little else. We are not interested in winning a blue ribbon in the show ring. Rather, we test for things like elongated soft palates, narrow tracheas, stenotic nares, luxation in the patellar tendons, heart defects, cherry eye, optic cilia, entropion, ect. We focus and prioritize creating healthy bloodlines, therefore our bulldogs are typically much healthier than the breed as a whole. After breeding for health, what other priorities are you focused on? Our true desire is to create the perfect family bulldog. We also believe a bulldog bred for the correct personality is essential to the family unit as well. A Bruiser Bulldog is bred for intelligence and playfulness. We want our bulldogs to be full of personality and some quirk. We believe a full personality along with a little stubbornness is the true North star of the bulldog breed and is what makes the unique among other breeds. We look for these personality traits in our adult bulldogs and continue to create bloodlines that reflect these qualities. What are the steps of your adoption process if I am located in Ohio? Check out our available English Bulldog Puppies page. At times, we have available puppies but almost always have a waiting list as well. A quick look at our available puppies is the starting point to begin the process. Send us an email or give us call .If approved to adopt one of our puppies you are welcome to place a deposit to hold until your puppy is ready to go home. Greetings from the Wysongs! Northern Indiana based, Bruiser Bulldogs offers purebred English Bulldog Puppies for sale to loving adopters seeking to find a higher quality English Bulldog. As English Bulldog breeders , Mitch and Erica Wysong have dedicated themselves to a lifelong journey of changing the culture and societal pressures of poor breeding practices within the English Bulldog Community. Mitch and Erica believe in producing a healthy English Bulldog puppy first and foremost. Through years of research and development, Bruiser Bulldogs is leading a new movement away from the overdone, wrinkled bulldog that has been long plagued by health problems. By embracing a healthier, more athletic look they are able to ensure that each and every English Bulldog Puppy for sale by Bruiser Bulldogs is supported by a platform of health tested, clean genetics. Upon adoption, each family that takes on the responsibility of a Bruiser Bulldog enters into an active and vibrant communal family of bulldog owners. Mitch and Erica believe it is their responsibility to provide emotional and mental support for the lifetime of each and every English Bulldog puppy they produce. To ensure the success of every adoption, Bruiser Bulldogs will always be committed to helping Bruiser Bulldog adopters care for their English Bulldogs to the best of their ability. I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. It may no longer be relevant Dash the 2 year old English Bulldog was unfortunately surrendered over to the staff at East Holmes Veterinary Clinic due to bladder stones. Being partnered with East Holmes vet clinic in re-homing dogs in need — they quickly got into contact with us as it was apparent he needed to have surgery immediately. We raced down to Berlin, Ohio and picked up the poor boy. We transported him to our veterinarians at West Park Animal Hospital where he underwent his first surgery. The stones were removed and he went into a foster home with Friendship board member, Amy Richards, and her husband. While he was recovering from his surgery, they noticed he was still having trouble going using the bathroom… A week later, it was back to the doctors. This time they sent him home with antibiotics for a possible urinary tract infection. Things did not seem to be improving despite the treatment. In fact, things seemed to be getting worse! We all agreed that it was time for him to see a specialist. We took him to Metropolitan as an emergency patient. It turns out we were all in for a shock at what this poor dog was enduring. Dash had probably been living with bladder stones for so long that they had completely scarred his urethra. It was at the point where a catheter could not pass through from all the scar tissue. His bladder had swelled to the size of a grapefruit due to his inability to relieve himself. There was only one choice — a very drastic surgery to bypass the scar tissue. They made a completely new urine passage for him so he could finally use the bathroom like a normal dog. It is truly incredible! Dash was now able to go to the bathroom on his own! He seemed like a whole new dog that was comfortable for the first time in years. A flip had switched and he was happy, playful and running around! After months of recovering from both surgeries, his foster family could not let him go. His new name is Fred, he has another English Bulldog sibling, and he could not be living a more happy and fulfilling life. Fred is just one of many special dogs that we are able to give a second chance thanks to your generous donations. But the cost of seeing him running around and playing in the backyard…is truly priceless. To help more dogs like Fred, considering supporting the Friendship APL with a one-time or recurring donation. We proudly own and operate the largest animal shelter in Lorain County. Gus came to us after being surrendered to a shelter with a female Bulldog. Unfortunately, the female was too sick and even after an emergency surgery, she did not make it. Gus was in a little better shape so we addressed his medical concerns one at a time! After clearing up his ear and skin infections and getting some much-needed TLC, Gus was cleared to be neutered. The vet noticed one of his testicles didn't look quite right so it was sent for pathology. The results came back positive for cancer. Fortunately, this type of cancer is generally taken care of once it is removed. However due to this, Gus will need closely monitored for the remainder of his life. Despite everything he has been through and the obvious years of neglect, Gus is the sweetest boy! He loves attention and being with his people. He loves a good nap on the couch and prefers a pillow so he can elevate his head. He has not been kid tested, but due to his overwhelmingly sweet personality we do not anticipate there would be any issues. Gus does prefer to be the only dog though and would do best in a home without other pets. He is crate trained and doing better with leash walking and house breaking! Gus is around 50 pounds, neutered, up to date on vaccines, microchipped and heartworm negative. He is looking for a family to love him, spoil him and to let him take it easy for the remainder of his golden years. Donations can be made via our PayPal account - info prodogsohio. You must be willing to commute to the location that the pet is being fostered in order to be eligible to adopt. We do not ship our pets. We also require that you personally bring the pet back to us should the adoption not work out. We do NOT negotiate adoption fees. All money goes to support our rescue operation. We require your current dog s to be current on vaccines and heartworm prevention. Apply online at www. Due to the volume of apps and inquiries, we may not be able to respond to everyone.

Puppyhood The first growth phase — puppyhood — has six development stages. During each of these stages, a puppy learns a lot of things. Neonatal Stage This period lasts from birth to 13 days. The puppy needs a lot of nursing from its mom because it is rather helpless. Its ears and eyes are closed, so it does not have any senses. The little pups should completely rely on their mothers for nourishment and care. By 2 weeks, they double their birth weight. They start crawling, and then their eyes and ears begin to open. The first milk teeth appear. The puppy can even stand up, but too unstably and shakily. This makes it possible for little ones to hear, smell, and taste. They even try to walk. Their baby teeth continue growing. The period between weeks is also called a transitional one. At the end of the third week, the motor skills start developing fast. The puppy can already control its temperature and body, namely, bowel movements. It begins to interact with its littermates. Nevertheless, the pup is still largely dependent on its mother. Though, you can interact with it. At the end of this period, the little cub is ready to explore the world. Its baby teeth are almost complete, and it can stand up more stably. It starts barking and growling a bit. The puppy grows quickly now. It actively interacts with its littermates. The baby dog can walk, and its baby teeth are complete. You can also consider the German Shepherd behavior stages from now. Its mental development starts because it discovers the world actively with its senses. Its walking improves, and it can make attempts to run, so it can even sometimes get in trouble. The puppy can start eating dog food. That is why it is important to begin weaning. The little one can recognize and greet its littermates and people, get interested in new things, and continue to explore the world. However, at this age, the first fear period can be experienced. Read our detailed guide about 6 week old German Shepherd puppy. It is the best period for taking your pet home. This period can be psychologically traumatic, so be careful not to expose the pet to direct sunlight because it may be afraid of it for its entire life. All the fears need your special attention. You need to nurture, but not encourage them. Read our detailed guide about 2 month old German Shepherd puppy. So, your puppy is three months old now. It is playful and active. Its teeth are complete. It is weaned and eats dog food. The feeding recommendation here is the overall one and a half cups, three times a day. It is also time to get your pet vaccinated against distemper and parvovirus. At the end of the third month, your little GSD can simulate its behavior after other dogs and humans. Training can start. Read our detailed guide about 3 month old German Shepherd puppy. Your puppy already has all its baby teeth, and adult canines and incisors begin to push through. It can even try to bite or nip you. The puppy coat begins to disappear and gets ready for replacement by the adult double-layer coat. You can see a racing stripe on its spine where the adult hair will grow. The puppy displays quick growth at this time, and it becomes stronger to withstand the possible fierce competition with its siblings if it is still staying with its family. It needs a lot of biting and chewing now for the correct growth of its adult teeth. Your pet needs consistent socialization and potty training now. After three months old, you should think about such vaccination as DHPP — distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, and parvovirus. The juvenile phase lasts from 3 to 6 months, and it can be divided into three stages by month. Continue socializing and start more substantial training. You can consult the German Shepherd weight chart here to see whether your pup develops properly. So, be attentive to the games you play with your pet. Some of them can be dangerous and traumatic because your puppy may not know how to manage its body during them. You can give it two cups of kibble totally three times per day because it needs a lot of nutrition to grow. DHPP and rabies vaccines are recommended at this age. Your little pup is ready to explore the world. However, as a true teenager, it can become more stubborn and try not to listen to your commands. It starts to understand dominance and tries to persuade you in its leadership. Read our detailed guide about 4 month old German Shepherd puppy. During this month, it can gain about 10 pounds 4. Its ears have stably perked up by this time. It looks more like an adult dog but, as a true teenager, it is very playful and is always ready to go around. The adult teeth continue to appear. Sexual maturity starts emerging. You should feed your pet around two cups three times per day. A lot of training is also needed. Read our detailed guide about 5 month old German Shepherd puppy. It needs a lot of training and positive reinforcement. Now, your pet is fully house-trained, and it needs a lot of new experiences. The sixth month is a transition period to the Adolescent Phase. The ears are completely upright. Males achieve sexual maturity, while female puppies can experience heat cycles. Hormones start working, and male puppies can start marking the territory and looking for females to mate. The adult coat grows longer and gets its normal double layers. Adult teething is about to finish, and all 42 teeth appear. You should feed your dog with the overall two or three cups two times per day. Read our detailed guide about 6 month old German Shepherd puppy. Adolescence Phase Months German Shepherd males are thought to be grown-up when they are 3 years 36 months old. Females become adults when they are 2 years 24 months old. However, these criteria differ for every puppy. That is why the adolescence phase lasts from the end of the 6th month to the end of the second year of age 24 months on average. By the end of this phase, the puppy reaches its full size though it will continue slightly growing. Your dog can display testing boundaries, so disobedience is widely encountered if the dog is not properly trained. German Shepherds do not look like puppies anymore. Within this period, some dogs can display their second fear period at approximately months old , though to avoid long-lasting psychological trauma, you should ignore the fears. Some dogs may occasionally forget their skills that they have already acquired, so you may need to repeat training again. Here, the reinforced training is useful because some puppies can become entirely rambunctious. Your pet will also need more socialization since it reaches its sexual maturity, and some of its reactions can be pretty unexpected. Its sexual maturity continues, which may cause some aggression because of increases and decreases in hormones. The puppy does not gain weight so fast. Teething is finished. The German Shepherd starts looking more similar to an adult dog, with its standing up ears and well-developed muscles. The food your dog needs involves two or three cups total, given two times per day. Read our detailed guide about 7 month old German Shepherd puppy. It displays a lot of aggression. It can bark or lunge at other animals, kids, and unfamiliar people. A lot of training and reinforcement is needed. You can teach the youngster new tricks to deal with their aggression. The dog has strong adult teeth, and its ears are well-formed and perky. The transition to adulthood continues. As for food, your dog needs two-three cups in total two times a day. Read our detailed guide about 8 month old German Shepherd puppy. It does not grow fast, gaining about a couple of pounds per month. The dog needs two-three cups of food two times a day. Read our detailed guide about 9 month old German Shepherd puppy. They are very active and need a lot of attention and training. Sometimes, they can be really goofy or clumsy because they are still learning and do not know how to behave in many events. Your pup is very smart and clever but tends to display a lot of aggression if not supported and reinforced properly. The dogs should eat two-three cups in total per day. Read our detailed guide about 10 month old German Shepherd pupp y. It starts to challenge you as an owner and likes to demonstrate its leadership. You should teach it to be responsible and obey your commands. A lot of training and reinforcement is crucial. Still, give it two or three cups in total per day. It becomes a bit destructive, but be sure not to get angry or upset with it. It needs your patience and positive attitude. Such vaccines as DHPP and rabies are recommended at this age. It should also transit to adult food. Give it three or three and a half cups total twice a day. Read our detailed guide about 1 year old German Shepherd puppy. Years 1. This time is considered a transition period. The dog may have problems with fears and memory breakdowns. It may even forget how to do familiar things and should be trained again. However, its attention span is longer at this age, so it can have a more thorough obedience training. The dog should eat three or three and a half cups two times a day. Year 2 months — The Second Transition Phase This is one more transition period known as young adulthood. Your dog still displays some aggression. That is why they continue to need reinforcement, training, and socialization. It has already gained its athletic frame and strong muscle, and only several pounds are lacking for reaching its adult weight. In fact, you get a German Shepherd full-grown pet now. The DHPP vaccination is recommended at this age. Continue to feed your dog with three to three and a half cups in total twice per day. It has become a loyal and protective family pet or an obedient and enduring working dog. The young adulthood stage lasts from the second to the third year after the puppy was born. Its size is typical now for an adult dog. However, it may continue to grow slightly, but the changes are not noticeable at all. At this phase, you can also notice that your pet becomes more and more active. It needs a lot of exercise and training. A lot of physical activity is essential for the dog to stay in high spirits. The period between the second and third years of life is also called the adult growth stage. This is the time when your friend gets its excellent breed characteristics. It loves attention very much and continues to learn new things eagerly. The dog enjoys training sessions and strives for new experiences. It becomes calmer and more confident. Its hyperactivity slightly decreases. It displays a lot of self-control and discipline. Continue feeding your dog with three to three and a half cups twice per day. It will be its constant adult diet. Vaccination against rabies is recommended and required by authorities at this age. Seniority Phase This is the last phase of German Shepherd development. It may seem wonderful, but your dog can continue to slightly grow. The phase is divided into two periods — early senior years old and late senior years old. Unfortunately, you need to focus on its health rather than on training. Such health issues as hip dysplasia, joint pain, and decreased stamina can appear at this age. You need to have consultations with your vet more often. During this period, your dog does not change its weight and height considerably. Though, you can observe slight changes in weight. On average, these dogs live years. You need to attend to their health and comfort. The dog may remain energetic and playful, but it slightly slows down. It wants to rest more and gets much calmer. The animal may suffer from some pains, so it may need pain relievers for spine and joint problems and arthritis. It may also need nutritional supplements and changes to its diet. Special senior and sensitive stomach food may become the best choice. Avoid jumping and hard playing. Continuous veterinary monitoring is needed if some symptoms are worsening. The accepted proportion that is considered ideal is .The weight is usually not taken into consideration. If your pet does not correspond to this proportion, there may be a health issue you do not know about yet. That is why you need to monitor the parameters carefully. To be sure that everything is OK, multiply the length of your dog by 0. You will get the perfect height. However, there can be some divergences. If they are minor, you have nothing to worry about. The German Shepherd is rather thin, or even skinny. This results in bad proportions. The ideal weight of your German Shepherd is lbs kg for males and lbs kg for females. You can get either a heavy or obese dog, and it can be a result of overfeeding or certain health issues. How to Check the Weight of Your German Shepherd The simplest method to see whether your dog is underweight is to check whether the ribs are visible on the sides. If you can see that the shape of your dog reminds you of a barrel on the ribs, it means that it is overweight. If you cannot feel the ribs, but there is too much skin on the sides, your dog is overweight. However, if you feel the ribs and only a thin layer of skin, it is underweight. It does not matter whether your dog is underweight or overweight. In any case, it can cause health problems if you do not repair the situation. The best way to succeed is to make changes to the diet. If your German Shepherd is underweight, you should enrich the content of its food. However, do not make it eat if the dog does not want to. That can lead to more severe problems. Make a slow transition to food with higher fat content. Or you may even give your dog puppy food because it is rich in nutrients. If your pet is obviously overweight, the best thing is to cut off the food. However, you also need to do it step by step so that the dog finally can eat just half of the amount you have recently fed it. The adult dog has a height of inches cm at the shoulder and an average weight of pounds kg. Nevertheless, some German Shepherds can grow bigger and even reach pounds kg. You need to be sure about its proportions though to understand if your pet meets the standards. If you see some deficiencies, meet your vet for a more thorough evaluation. When does a German Shepherd stop growing? German Shepherd males are thought to be grown-up when they are 3 years old. Females become adults when they are 2 years old. How tall is a German Shepherd? The adult dog has a height of inches cm at the shoulder. An average male reaches inches cm in height, while an average female should be inches cm tall. The body of both males and females should be longer than their height. How big do German Shepherds get? How much does a German Shepherd weight? In general, an average male reaches pounds kg in weight, while an average female should be pounds kg heavy. This is a very strong and brave dog that can become a perfect guardian and protector. If you decide to take a GS puppy, you need to follow its growth stages accurately to be sure that it develops properly. You should follow a high-quality diet, provide your dog with a lot of exercise, and ensure its proper training and socialization. Your German Shepherd cannot stay healthy and active if it gets some health problems related to its weight or height. Sometimes, these issues are not obvious and understandable to the owner. That is why it is important to know the main development parameters of your German Shepherd growth stages to cope with possible challenges. We hope that this article, together with the weight and height chart, will become your effective and helpful guide. David W. I admire German Shepherds. They are magnificent dogs! I have been dealing with dogs, namely German Shepherds, throughout my life. I have been working part-time as a dog trainer and instructor for about 5 years, dealing mainly with German Shepherds. So I know a bit about these animals. Therefore, I decided to share my knowledge and experience about this fantastic breed. If you need help with advice and care tips or want to know more about German Shepherd dogs, welcome to this blog. Height: 26 inches Ratio: .This should give you their height. For example, 26 inches times 0. Using the other example, .Since each dog is going to be different, you need to look at their overall body condition rather than a weight range. Fortunately, there are body conditioning charts that you can use to figure out if your German Shepherd is at their ideal weight. Just look at them from the side and from above, feeling for ribs and pelvic bones when necessary. Younger dogs will also typically be on the thin side before they fully fill out as adults. Years of line breeding has produced several distinct types of Shepherds. Show dogs are known for a sloped back in which the back legs are shorter than the front. This unnatural formation can cause back and hip problems along with an abnormal gait. German Shepherds bred for show will also be thinner than their hardworking cousins. As you can see in this picture, this is a show-bred German Shepherd with an obvious curved back and short back legs. Working dogs, on the other hand, are bred for a sturdy, straight back so they can work long hours without getting sore. They tend to be thicker than show dogs and will, therefore, weigh more, even at the same height. As you can see in this picture, this dog has a straighter back and longer back legs, so it has been bred for working. Something else I wanted to mention here is that, according to some sources, Black German Shepherds are larger than their bi-colored cousins, despite being otherwise the same. So, if you have one of these rare and beautiful creatures, you can follow the same charts that were listed above. If your German Shepherd is diagnosed by a veterinarian as underweight or overweight for their age, then the first thing you should do is ask him or her to help you figure out the underlying cause of the problem. This will determine what should be done next. Do you have a giant German Shepherd? What about a tiny one? Comment below to tell us more about it! About Alexandra Animalso I was raised to be a dog person. My first Shepherd grew up as I did and wanted to be where I was at all times. I got my second dog as a 16th birthday present, and her loyalty for me was just as strong as my first. I hope that my contribution to Animalso will help others find dogs who give them that same unconditional love. American German shepherds have straighter backs then German shepherds. If you have a german shepherd and their lineages are close to their German roots they will have that arch in their back. As the German Shepherd growth chart suggests, a German Shepherd dog reaches full size and adult weight after one year. A growth spurt can occur between 1. The result of this late growth is an up to 10 percent increase in height and weight. Although you can consider a German Shepherd fully grown by one year, there may be additional factors that influence the growth of German Shepherd dogs. Is Your German Shepherd Healthy? Improper development can occur for many reasons. It could be as simple as your dog responding poorly to their dog food. Your feeding schedule and portions might not be sufficient. Your dog could also have a basic nutritional deficiency that you need to correct. Yet, being underweight or overweight can signify serious health problems. Weight loss can occur when the syndrome develops. Dogs typically show signs of EPI at between six months and six years of age. Parasites Dogs are highly susceptible to parasites. Deworming medication helps to reduce the risk. Yet, almost all puppies experience a parasitic infection at least once. Upon infection, your dog is at risk of serious weight loss and other troubling symptoms. Diabetes Mellitus Diabetes mellitus can affect any breed but has an above-average occurrence in German Shepherds. These dogs need insulin daily to accommodate for the inability to metabolize sugars. If your German has diabetes, severe weight loss can occur in a short period. Diabetes typically affects canines that are four years or older. It is the most common cancer in German Shepherds. Up to three percent will develop HSA. In most cases, this condition sets in at around nine to 12 years. Dietary Deficiency Do you have your German Shepherd on a raw food diet? Puppies often run underweight when receiving their nutritional requirements through raw meat. This diet is healthy and effective but needs monitoring, as not all dogs respond the same. Review the diet plan with a veterinarian and confirm there are no digestive or metabolic issues. Also, do not forget the importance of exercise! Clear Your Concerns with Coverage You put your heart into loving your dog like a child, but some things are out of your control. Health struggles can affect canines as much as humans. Even purebreds from AKC-certified breeders are not safe from serious health struggles both early and late in life. All you can do is prepare yourself to overcome complications. What if cancer happens? What else could happen? Peace of mind is great as a dog owner. Is coverage the answer? Get pet insurance quotes and see for yourself. Get Quotes for Your Cat Charitable Giving With every pet insurance policy we generate, we do our bit to help less fortunate animals across Canada and the U. Popular Articles. Puppies When choosing a companion dog, it is normal for coat color to be a major consideration. But how about the German Shepherd coat? Do German Shepherd puppies change color? This article will discuss German Shepherd puppy coat coloring and how that coloring changes over time. Yes, German Shepherd puppies change color as they develop into adulthood. Even after they completely shed their puppy coat and grow their permanent adult coat, you can still expect to see some subtle changes in color. Instead, it sheds and changes continuously from birth to around 6 months. Once your German Shepherd turns 7 months old, the changes to their coat color will be more subtle. Nevertheless, it will continue to transform until they become adults at around 2 years old. Puppies are single-coated and their fur is generally soft and fluffy. Over time, they will shed that coat and develop a double-coat composed of dense fur and coarse outer hairs. Thick, downy fur helps puppies regulate their temperature within their first few months of life. However, their needs will change as they develop into adults. In the spring, German Shepherds blow their undercoats in preparation for the warm summer months. They will again shed heavily in the fall to develop a thicker and possibly darker winter coat. However, their appearance will still change—possibly multiple times—until well into adulthood, which starts at around 2 years old. However, you may still notice some subtle changes in thickness as the seasons turn. The color might also change slightly due to various factors like diet and sun exposure. However, experienced breeders can often tell whether a puppy will be long-coated before they turn a month old. It is also common for some unique markings to appear or disappear at this time. Nevertheless, the change in appearance might still be significant between 7 and 18 months old. Their shade could become darker or lighter, and their coat pattern can show some slight changes as well. Changes could still occur as a result of diet, environmental exposure, or health issues. No matter what color you prefer, your German Shepherd will benefit from proper nutrition and supplements for dog coat growth. She originally escaped from somewhere although the story is sketchy. She had surgery at the animal shelter and I adopted her as soon as she was ready. The first night I had her, I knew there was a problem. She escaped two wire crates initially and ruined them. She tore up the inside of my truck, ripped the seat covers and tore up several beds. I have never had a dog with so much anxiety before and I even had her on medication. At one point 8 mg of Xanax and she still escaped from everywhere! She would panic! I had to find something and get it fast to keep her safe! My friends down in Los Angeles recommended you! I purchased the crate immediately! When my crate arrived in January: I purchased the largest crate you made I think. It came assembled on an 18 wheel Semi Truck! This crate was sturdy! It was well built and it kept her in one place safe. But I did not expect her to absolutely love this crate. I had taken her with me everywhere from day one but she actually loved staying in your crate. She went to work with me every day, basketball games, baseball games, etc with me from the get go, but the crate made her feel secure and safe. She was very happy! During the summer I added additional fans in my truck and left all the windows down in my excursion so she would be comfortable. I parked in the shade at work and left the back of the truck open for her closed the top window but left the split gate open. She would be sound asleep when I would go check on her and sometimes I had to wake her up to take her for a walk. She is also going to be tracking and article detection. Thank you again for the great crate! I highly recommend Impact to everyone! I might be your biggest fan!! She loves your crate. This is my friend who helped me adopt Xena from the shelter! Thank you Impact!! And "now" after a year! Anyway, I owe it all to your crate! It allowed me to calm her and spend time with her while I was working! I spread praises to everyone! By studying the breed standards, we gain a basic understanding of German Shepherd structure and temperament. This guide is not a breed standard, but rather, it serves as a resource for those wanting to show and breed German Shepherds and can provide puppy buyers with the knowledge and confidence they need to quiz prospective breeders and identify quality puppies. The goal of a world-class German Shepherd breeder is to create and uphold a body type that is consistent—and produce healthy animals with stable temperaments—capable of performing a variety of functions. This guide shows breeders how to identify faults and virtues in their breeding dogs and through education, collaboration and commitment, we can help to ensure a healthier future for all German Shepherds. NOTE: There are a number of variations to the breed standard and while this guide is not affiliated with any specific club or organization, it is a culmination of basic breed standard information—presented in a easy-to-follow, visual format. When showing any German Shepherd, please study and understand fully the standard recognized by your show organization. The illustrations presented here are copyrighted and are not endorsed by, or affiliated with, any German Shepherd registry or club. They cannot be reproduced by any means—either electronic or mechanical—without permission in writing from the illustrator and GSDLiving. The German Shepherd Dog The first impression of a good German Shepherd Dog is that of a strong, agile, well muscled animal, alert and full of life. It is well balanced, with harmonious development of the forequarter and hindquarter. The dog is longer than tall, deep-bodied, and presents an outline of smooth curves. It looks substantial, giving the impression—both at rest and in motion—of muscular fitness and nimbleness. The ideal dog is stamped with a look of quality and nobility—difficult to define, but unmistakable when present. Secondary sex characteristics are strongly marked, and every animal gives a definite impression of masculinity or femininity, according to its sex. Height, Weight, Proportion The first step to identifying a quality German Shepherd is to understand fully the basic anatomical structures of the dog. Correct conformation is paramount to general appearance and overall performance. During conformation events, the wicket is first set to the maximum height as outlined in the breed standard. It is then placed at the highest point of the withers A. If the wicket does not touch the ground, your dog is oversize. The length is measured from the point of the prosternum or breastbone to the rear edge of the pelvis, the ischial tuberosity. Height is measured in a straight line from the withers, down the forelimbs and to the ground. German Shepherd Anatomy Understanding Angulation Angulation refers to the angle degree of slant between two or more bones surrounding a joint. The illustration below shows ideal front and rear angulation for German Shepherds, circa .In more recent years, rear angulation has changed significantly in many lines of show dogs—and even in some working lines. Additional information on this angulation transformation can be found under our Then and Now tab under the conformation menu. Anatomically, front angulation is usually dictated by the length of the upper arm humerus. A short upper arm results in decreased front angulation and restricted movement. The scapula and humerus should be approximately equal in length. The longer the lower leg, the greater the rear angulation and rear reach. Note: Your German Shepherd must be stacked correctly to accurately determine angulation. This means the hock on the extended rear leg must be positioned perpendicular to the ground and the forelegs must be positioned directly under the body in a straight line down from the withers. Place your thumb on the joint and follow the humerus bone down to the elbow joint B and note the angle of your hand. While keeping your thumb stationery, swing your hand up until you feel the protruding rib of the scapula bone. Conformation judges frequently use this method to evaluate shoulder angles. Anatomically, the highest point of the scapula should be positioned between thoracic vertebrae T2 and T3. Most steep shoulders are a result of a short upper arm and frequently cause a depression along the topline flat withers where the tip of the scapula withers would be positioned on a properly angulated dog. Rear angulation is discussed in great detail under our Then and Now tab in the main menu. Examples of present day German Shepherd body types with varying degrees of rear angulation. Spine, Middlepieces, Topline Spine: The spine of German Shepherds consists of cervical, thoracic and lumbar vertebrae, the sacrum where the pelvis attaches to the spinal column , and the coccygeal vertebrae of the tail. Middle Pieces: The middle pieces are the bones making up the back and loin and are what determine the length of body in a German Shepherd. This is in contrast to the dog that is too long in body and must exert too much energy while in motion. Topline: The topline runs from the base of the neck, through a high, long withers, into a straight back and towards the slightly sloping croup, without visible interruption. The back is moderately long, firm, strong and well-muscled. The loin is broad, short, strongly developed and well-muscled. The German Shepherd Head The head of a German Shepherd is noble, cleanly chiseled, strong without coarseness, but above all not fine, and in proportion to the body. The expression keen, intelligent and composed. Seen from the front the forehead is only moderately arched, and the skull slopes into the long, wedge-shaped muzzle without abrupt stop. The muzzle is long and strong, and its topline is parallel to the topline of the skull. Nose is black. Noses that are not predominately black are faulty. Lips are firmly fitted. Jaws are strongly developed. The length of the forehead is measured from the occiput to the stop, while the length of the muzzle is measured from the stop to the tip of the nose. German Shepherd muzzles should be black and should be at a length equal to that of the forehead. The jaw should be strong and visible when the mouth is closed and the lips should be firm and not sag. On males, especially, muzzles should not appear narrow or snippy. Because they are the central component of expression, they should not distract from the overall impression of the head by being too light or protruding. The darker the eye color the better. They open toward the front and are carried erect when at attention. The ideal carriage being one in which the center lines of the ears, viewed from the front, are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the ground. Ears should be of a size that compliments the overall outline of the head. The height of the ear should be equal to its width at the base. Any dog with cropped or hanging ears must be disqualified. To check for size, fold the ear down toward the eye A. The tip of the ear should not pass the upper eye rim. The height of the ear should be equal to its width at the base B. The ears should additionally be set high, and well apart, with the base of the ear placed just above the center of the eye D. Secondary Sex Characteristics Secondary sex characteristics are sex characteristics not related to reproduction. In German Shepherds and other breeds, these characteristics include size, musculature and head and expression. Head proportions—including the angle and length of the forehead and muzzle, and slope of the stop—are identical for both the dog and the bitch. When examining the head of a German Shepherd, the sex of the dog should be easily apparent. Body size, head and musculature on stud dogs should be quite different from that of bitches. Overly broad, masculine heads on bitches, or studs with more refined, weak or feminine attributes are penalized. Skull and Bite Alignment: Tooth alignment is affected by several genetic factors including jaw structure, lip structure, number of teeth, and retention of baby teeth. Tooth placement can, however, be caused by an injury or habits such as excessive chewing, repeated carrying or fetching of very hard objects. German Shepherds should have scissor bites. Scissors Bite: The upper incisors just overlap and touch the lower incisors. This arrangement prevents wear on the incisors and keeps the teeth aligned. Level Bite: The incisors meet edge to edge. This bite is acceptable, but not ideal. The canines nor the incisors line up squarely. Crowded Bite: When the teeth are overcrowded, sometimes overlapping. Crooked Teeth: Usually caused by crowding in a too-small or too-narrow jaw or the result of damage to the mouth. Missing teeth are an inherited trait resulting in a weakening of the jaw. The first premolars are the most commonly missed teeth, and though not as serious a fault as missing the second through fourth premolars, or missing multiple teeth, any German Shepherd missing first premolars should not be bred to another dog with this same fault. The pairing could result in progeny with weakened jaws and missing teeth. An overshot jaw or a level bite is undesirable. An undershot jaw is a disqualifying fault. Complete dentition is to be preferred. Any missing teeth other than first premolars is a serious fault. The bottom line of the chest should align with the elbows and the prosternum should stand out just ahead of the shoulder when viewed in profile. Commencing at the prosternum, the chest should be well filled and carried well down between the legs. It is deep and capacious, never shallow, with ample room for lungs and heart, carried well forward, with the prosternum showing ahead of the shoulder in profile. Ribs well sprung and long, neither barrel-shaped nor too flat, and carried down to a sternum which reaches to the elbows. Correct ribbing allows the elbows to move back freely when the dog is at a trot. Too round causes interference and throws the elbows out; too flat or short causes pinched elbows. Ribbing is carried well back so that the loin is relatively short. Abdomen firmly held and not paunchy. The bottom line is only moderately tucked up in the loin. Rib bones should be relatively flat and attach to the spine at the top and to the sternum at the bottom. They should be long and carried well back into the body, keeping the loin short and strong. Ribs and rib cages that are too round barrel shaped push the elbows out and away from the body while ribs that are too flat and short cause pinching in of the elbows. Well sprung ribs that are correctly positioned in the body, function to protect vital organs, yet are flexible enough to allow ample room for proper breathing. Forelimb Alignment Forelimb: The forelimbs of a German Shepherd should be positioned firmly and squarely under the body. When viewed from the front, you should see a straight line from the shoulder to the center of the foot. If an adjustment is needed, make the change by picking up the leg from just below the elbow. Most dogs are very sensitive about their feet and do not like having them manipulated. Working from the elbow is much for comfortable for you and your dog. You do not have to bend all the way to the ground and your dog does not have to have its feet touched. If working with a young dog or puppy, you can place your hand between the front legs at the chest and lift gently until its front feet are off the ground. Then slowly allow the feet to come down naturally to the ground. Turning the toes forward can additionally cause the elbows to turn out. To measure adequate width of chest and correct placement of the forelimbs, slide your hand positioned flat with palm up down the forechest and between the forelimbs. Your hand should fit loosely between the legs. If tight, your dog lacks width of chest, if there is extra space, the chest could be too broad. A chest that is too broad can push the legs of the dog too far away from its center of gravity and will result in a loss of energy while in motion. Forelimb Forelimb: The humerus, ulna, metacarpal and carpal bones provide the infrastructure of the forelimb and play an essential role in supporting your German Shepherd when in motion. The tendons and ligaments however, are what usually dictate correct conformation. The strength, firmness and angle of the pastern provides protection during impact and this cushioning is directly related to the condition and firmness of the ligaments surrounding the joints. Any weaknesses of the forelimbs can make your German Shepherd prone to injury and cause premature arthritic conditions. Feet: The feet of German Shepherds should be tight and well sprung. Toes that are elongated or splayed display weak ligamentation with decreased cushion and spring in the foot necessary for efficient, stress-free movement. Splayed, flat or hare feet are serious faults. Hindquarters Hindquarters: When talking about hindquarters on German Shepherds, we are referring to the pelvis, croup, upper and lower thigh, stifle, and hock. Forward motion begins from the rear as energy is pushed forward through the body. Pelvis: The pelvis is a complex structure that serves as a bridge for the transmission of energy between the rear legs and the spine. Croup: The croup includes the sacrum and the first few vertebrae of the tail. A correctly sloped pelvis is critical for efficient transmission. Upper and lower thigh: The lower thigh on German Shepherds should be only slightly longer than the upper thigh. The length of the lower thigh plays a large role in determining the degree of angulation in the rear. The longer the lower thigh bones, the greater the angulation. Stifle: The stifle or knee joint is one of the most complex joints in the body and is where the femur, tibia and fibula join with the patella to form a powerful lever used for forward motion. Hock: The hock is where forward transmission begins and, because it is covered with a minimum amount of muscle, it is very susceptible to injury. It is crucial that this joint be straight and not bend either inward cow hocked or outward bandy legged. Sickle hocks are hocks that curve inward toward the body. A slight sickle is good, but a curve that causes the dog to walk with its hocks low to the ground like a kangaroo is considered faulty. When viewed in profile, the tail flows gently downward with a slight curved saber appearance. The tail set the point of the croup where the tail begins should be smooth and not bulge or dip. Tails that are set too high tend to form a bulge or tuck of hair at the base of the croup, while tails that are set too low will usually display a dip before transitioning in the tail. Very low tail sets might can also increase vulnerability to perianal fistula in some dogs. Nor should it be rolled up over the back past the base of the croup. Tails that extend above the back and curl forward past the base of the croup are considered a very serious fault. Body type dictates which style is most efficient for your dog. Suspended Trot — There is a period of suspension in which all four feet are off the ground. In a perfectly balanced dog, this effortless, rhythmic stride gives the illusion of slow motion and is spectacular when observed. Some experts believe the flying trot, though elegant and spectacular to watch, is not quite as efficient as the suspended trot. But it does allow the dog to cover more ground—at a faster speed. Flying Trot — There is no period of suspension. The hindfoot touches down before the forefoot even begins to be lifted. There is no period of suspension in a flying trot. The hindfoot touches down before the forefoot even begins to be lifted and also before the opposite forefoot makes contact with the ground. Additionally, the pasterns are usually flipped up in the follow through. With this type of extreme stride and speed, a large dog cannot generate enough power to lift and suspend its body. So which of these gaits is preferred? The dogs decide for us. Breeders cannot train a dog to suspend or fly. Stride is a result of body type, conformation and conditioning, and what breeders desire in our dogs. If you want a fast moving, flashy, show dog, the flying trot is what you strive to develop. If you want a solid, working-class dog with endurance and grace, then you breed for animals with suspended trots. Note that dogs falling in or exceeding the upper limits for height and weight for the breed might not be capable of performing either gaiting style and will have a greater tendency to amble or loaf while gaiting. There is a point in which the reach of a German Shepherd can be too extreme. Though flashy, some of these loosely ligamented dogs, with extreme reach, perform poorly at normal activities such as jumping, and some can have difficultly even standing or walking without appearing off balance. Notice also the tremendous pressure placed on the hocks due to their relative position to the ground. Pacing is when the legs on each side of the body move concurrently in the same direction. This action causes your dog to bounce and roll from side to side while in motion. Pacing is the easiest of the three gaits to perform. If your dog is pacing, it usually means you are not running fast enough for your German Shepherd to transition into a full trot or your dog is tired, overweight or conformationally deficient short coupled, under angulated, etc. You should avoid pacing while in the ring. Your dog will appear clumsy and the judge will be unable to properly evaluate its gait or transmission. Their bodies roll from side to side and their reach is greatly diminished. Dogs of very large stature must be in top condition and be tightly ligamented to successfully compete against smaller, more agile competitors. Shoulders that roll from side to side, and backs and abdomens that bounce while in motion, are typical of large, loosely ligamented dogs. As forward action begins, the forelegs move toward the midline of the body. This shift—or single tracking—increases balance and conserves energy. The forelegs should hold firm in a straight line from the shoulder joint to the toes. A German Shepherd that is wide coming wastes a lot of energy by carrying its feet too far away from its midline and this usually results in a choppy, side-to-side motion. Dogs that are close coming front feet cross over are not balanced and also loose valuable energy. Crabbing, or moving crabwise, is a term used to describe a condition where the front and rear of the dog move in two parallel tracks side by side instead of a single tract down the midline. This occurs when the front or rear overpowers the other. Energy is lost with any shift of energy in a direction other than the direction your dog is moving. Any joints that are not straight are highly susceptible to injury due to the tremendous force applied to these areas when in motion. As the rear leg is brought forward, a well conditioned, well muscled German Shepherd will show some shifting of the leg away from the midline at the knee. This is normal and is indicative of good muscling. However, you should not see any twisting or extreme pushing out of the knee. Poorly conditioned dogs, or individuals lacking muscle mass will move flat, holding both legs too close to the body. These dogs frequently show weakness of back, as well, and a shifting or rolling of the body will be observed both coming and going. A German Shepherd with good movement going will show great firmness of back, dense muscling and an even pressure applied to joints. Any deviations in structure can greatly increase energy loss and fatigue, and in the long term, could result in permanent damage to the affected joints. The illustrations below show how any curve at the hock creates added stress on the joint. Only a dog that is wide going retains a straight line on its driving leg, but looses energy because its legs are too far away from the midline of the body. In this section, we will show you where transmission begins and how it sets your dog in motion. Dogs that are loosely ligamented or poorly conditioned will also have faulty transmission. As your dog pushes off with its rear leg, energy travels from the hock, into the stifle and thighs, into the croup, loin and back, and ultimately into the shoulders and forelimbs. As you can imagine, if your dog has poor hocks, there is little chance for good transmission. Energy will be directed toward the midline of the body if cow hocked instead of up and into the thighs. The incidence of injury in cow hocked dogs is high because of the tremendous stress placed the hock and stifle joints. If your German Shepherd has a powerful rear assembly with great rear reach—but it is not equally balanced in front—its rear components will overpower its front. The hindfeet will likely strike the forefeet, causing your dog to move crabwise—or even result in a high, over exaggerated front reach. Every component of the body must be balanced to achieve fluid, effortless motion with the least misdirection or loss of energy. The pelvis receives all the energy generated by the rear and serves as a bridge to allow that energy to pass seamlessly into the loin and back. The amount of energy taken in by the pelvis is tremendous. Unlike the scapula shoulder , the pelvis is not connected to the spine with muscle, but is fused to the sacrum. A puppy that is born with a steep pelvis will have a steep pelvis as an adult. The angle does not change with maturity. Once energy passes through the pelvis, it moves into the spine toward the forehand. While in motion, the back should remain straight and firm. The forequarters of your German Shepherd generates only a fraction of the amount of energy that its hindquarters produce, but it is equally important because it serves as support for the front of the dog and controls braking and steering. The shoulders must be able to absorb the energy generated from the rear without interfering with it. Its front legs must be able to cover the same amount of ground as its corresponding rear legs. The shoulders of a German Shepherd must be correctly angulated, the upper arm should not be too short, and the withers should be high and well muscled. Any faults in gait or transmission are very serious in German Shepherds and should be penalized. Conformation faults have the greatest impact on transmission. If reach is restricted, transmission will also decrease. Flexors pull the joint closed and bring the limb close to the body. Extensors open the joint and straighten the limb out and away from the body. If your dog has a short upper arm, it will have short extensors. Short extensor muscles cannot contract enough to adequately extend the limb. The same theory applies to the hindquarters. The longer the lower thigh bone, the longer its associated muscles. Longer muscles can contract more and extend the leg further than short muscles. Illustrations A and C show well balanced dogs in motion. It is possible to maintain balance in a dog with an over extended reach C , but it is not typical, and these dogs can appear less stable while standing or walking. Photo B is an example of a moderately angulated, balanced dog. This dog will be able to stand or walk steadily—with ease and balance. Photo D shows a dog with tremendous rear strength that is completely over powering its front. Its short upper arm is also restricting reach. Dog D can sustain this type of gait for only a short period of time before exhausting. Below are examples of dogs with their weight evenly distributed over the length of their bodies and also dogs with increased angulation that shifts a greater percentage of their weight onto the stifle and hock joints. These more angulated dogs are susceptible to injury at these critical junctions. May 18, Reply As an Australian dog judge of three groups and currently learning to judge the German Shepherd Dog this site has been such a valuable learning tool. The illustrations are exceptional and as a visual learner these quality diagrams and explanations are equivalent to a gold mine. Sending sincere gratitude for your skills and sharing this with the world. So glad to hear you are finding this site helpful. Randy February 6, Reply This was a great read. My wife and I picked up our Shepherd when she was 6 weeks old. She is now 13 months old. By reading this I learned a lot more about her. Thank you Rangda January 18, Reply Thank you for this material — very informatiwe and detailed! Asia January 1, Reply I love this so much, I am planning on getting into showing and this is easy to understand. Is it possible to get this in physical form? For my own personal studies. Thank you so much for the feedback. The guide currently has an online version only, but feel free to review as desired. I am glad you find it informative and helpful. Education is the key to breeding healthier dogs regardless of the breed. Trinity July 12, Reply Thank you for this resource! I am hoping to adopt a GSD from a shelter soon and will be using this as a reference to help select a good sport prospect with stable structure. Marlon October 27, Reply Wow, this is very informative I will definitely use this as a reference. I learned a lot! Thank you so much for sharing! Leave a Reply.

Following the Labrador feeding chart by age will give you a rough idea of how much to feed your puppy. Labradors are known for their playfulness, and sweet disposition, and are good at fetch which is why you should provide them with the best nutrition to support their growth. Ensure that the food contains the right amounts of protein, carbs, fat, and vitamins. You should avoid feeding your Labrador puppy too much food as they are prone to joint issues, but also avoid feeding them less food as they will be malnourished and not reach their growth milestones. Continue reading to understand how much to feed a Labrador puppy. The amount of food that your Labrador puppy should eat depends on a combination of certain factors such as activity level, weight, type, and brand of food. Heavier and bigger puppies need to eat more food than smaller puppies, and dogs that have active lives will need more calories than those living sedentary life. Fortunately, all dog food contains a feeding guideline on the packaging to get you started. It is important that you create and maintain a feeding schedule for your puppy so that they can maintain a healthy weight and develop good habits. Consult your pet nutritionist or vet, to learn more about how much food you should give your specific Labrador. Labrador Feeding Chart By Age A Labrador can be fed between one and six cups of food depending on their level of activity, age, and type of food. The amount will differ from one puppy to the other as every puppy has there own requirements. Therefore, you should follow a feeding guideline that is indicated in the dog food brands or the one designed by your vet. As a Labrador owner, it is important to understand that the nutritional requirements of your puppy are different at each stage as they grow. Therefore, adult and puppy dogs should be trained to eat the correct amount at the right schedule. Ensure that you keep a Labrador puppy feeding chart with you. Calculating the Resting Energy Requirement RER of your puppy and doubling it can help you get the right number of calories to feed them. Feed your puppy a little amount, in the beginning, to ensure that they are ready to eat. If they are not ready, do not force the food on them. Be patient with your puppy and they will be on puppy food soon. The puppy will be relying less on the milk. When your puppy starts eating all the food you offer them, you can reduce the amount of water and increase the food amount. The puppy will start becoming active and start exploring away from the mother as they no longer rely on the mother. By the end of the week into week seven, the puppy will be able to eat just puppy food. Ensure that you feed them dry food that is full of healthy protein. They should be eating three to four times per day and need about 2 cups of food. Avoid free feeding the puppy as it may be hard to know exactly how much they are eating. Create a feeding schedule as early as possible and this will help them develop good habits in the future. Put the food out for only 10 to 15 minutes and take the bowl away if they do not finish. This can be tricky if you are working but it is important that you maintain their feeding schedule as this is a developmental stage. Three meals per day will help your growing puppy develop their digestive system and ensure that they are getting their nutrition. This is also the beginning of the teething stage and they will be biting a lot of things including hard dog food and chew toys. They should eat about two cups of food distributed over three meals. But you should still maintain feeding them two cups of food but can reduce the mealtimes to twice per day. Watch out for the amount of food your puppy eats to avoid them gaining weight. Also, ensure that they are getting enough exercise to burn off the food. So, you should transition them to adult food. Ensure that the switching process is done slowly to avoid causing vomiting and diarrhea to your puppy. Your Labrador can be fed once per day now and the amount reduced to about two cups of food. Understanding Labrador Puppy Nutritional Needs If you stick to feeding your Labrador high-quality food, be assured that they are getting all the necessary nutrients. However, it is useful to know the types of nutrients that they need and the ingredients to watch out for. Carbohydrates — healthy carbs are necessary for providing energy for your puppy. Sources like barley, rice, and oatmeal are great. Healthy carbs can also be found in veggies such as sweet potatoes, peas, and lentils. Fiber — it helps regulate the digestive system of your puppy and helps the stool become healthier and firm. Sources include spinach, chicory root, and beet pulp. Sources include fish oils, fish, canola oils, and fish. Vitamins and Minerals — are needed for improving the immune system which helps in protecting your puppy from diseases. Veggies and real fruits like cranberries and blueberries are great sources. The frequency of feeding your Labrador depends mostly on their age. Puppies need to eat three to four times per day while senior and adult Labradors can eat one to two times per day. Labrador is a breed that is motivated by food, meaning that the chance of them turning down food is low. Given their nature, it can be difficult to figure out whether they are really hungry or just food obsessed. Since they cannot regulate their eating habits, it is important that you develop a feeding schedule to prevent them from gaining weight. Both types of food provide your dog with the best nutrition they need to grow and develop. Also, check the label on the packaging and make sure that it contains the perfect balance of protein, fats, and carbohydrates. Kibble is cheaper than wet foods and stores easily as it does not require refrigeration. It also helps clean the teeth by removing tartar and buildup when your puppy chews it. Wet food also provides balanced and complete nutrition for your Labrador. It provides more hydration to your puppy as it contains high moisture content. However, wet food needs to be put in the fridge once opened otherwise it will go bad. Some dog owners mix wet food and kibble to give their dogs the best of both worlds. Therefore, most premium dog food brands have different specially formulated puppy food. Puppies can be fed with puppy food until they are about 12 to 15 months old then transition to adult dog food. When transitioning your dog from puppy food to adult dog food remember to introduce the feed gradually for about seven to ten days by mixing small amounts of the adult dog food with the puppy food. Decrease the puppy food gradually every day with a simultaneous increase in adult dog food. This will helps the pup o adjust to the new meal easily. Experienced Labrador Retriever owners will tell you that not all puppies eat a lot. Studies also have indicated that puppies eat more when fed with other puppies or in a group. When the puppy gets to a new home, they might go off the food for the first few days. They might eat a few kibbles and then leave it. Your puppy may also prefer to eat from your hand and not the bowl. However, call your vet if your puppy refuses to eat for more than four hours. Call immediately if your puppy looks unwell. There are a few reasons you need to keep an eye on because they indicate serious problems: Your pup neither drink nor eat Diarrhea. Made with real meat and no artificial colors or flavors how much should a lab eat? Allergies Labs can also have allergies. Some dogs may be allergic to wheat, macadamia nuts, etc. It can manifest as a runny nose, high volumes of shedding, rashes on the skin, and so on. Different dietary needs are crucial, especially if they display allergy symptoms. Avoid all types of human foods. You can give your lab puppy supplements You can get great quality adult dog food and puppy kibble from companies like Royal Canin Labrador Retriever, Blue Buffalo, Canidae Grain-Free, etc. Only adult food must be given to labrador retrievers who have crossed 1. Your puppy needs 4 small meals consisting of half a cup of food per meal till he is 2 months old. From 2 to 6 months, he needs 3 meals daily consisting of 1 cup of food per meal. From 6 months onwards , you can give your puppy 2 meals daily of 2 cups of dog food per meal. Is This A Problem? Yes, this is a major problem! Fat dogs are adorable but also extremely unhealthy. An adult labrador retriever should weigh at most pounds. Labs that are fatter than this stand at the risk of obesity, arthritis , and other lifelong diseases. Refrain from feeding your labrador too many dog treats. Onions and garlic: surprisingly, anything in the onion and garlic family is incredibly toxic to dogs. Meat with bones: if not chewed properly, sharp edges can rupture the throat, stomach lining, intestines, and other parts of the digestive tract. Other human foods and beverages to avoid giving your dog are alcohol, sugar, citric fruits, and anything with caffeine. Your labrador retriever should weigh between 55 to 70 pounds at full adulthood. Male labs are heavier than female labs, so they can fall on either side of the optimal weight spectrum. Some healthy treats for your labrador retriever are cut fruits and vegetables. Carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, apples, bananas, and berries strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, etc. Dogs also love peanut butter! Veggies dipped in peanut butter also make a great snack for your dog. This is entirely up to you as dog owners. If you have the time and patience to cook meals for your dog, go for it. Store-bought food is easier and is filled with the right nutritional requirements for your lab puppy. On the other hand, with the right recipe, home-cooked food works, too. What Should I Do? A dog growling at you when you go near his food bowl is most commonly a trauma response or a way to protect his food. We often see this with rescues. House training your lab puppy is equally important to avoid food aggression. Labrador Retrievers get piddly after their meals. Dog owners must take out their lab puppy as frequently as they eat sometimes even more often to let their energy out and adult labradors less frequently. A lab puppy needs a ton of exercise. The amount of kibble you should feed your Labrador puppy will vary depending on their age, weight, and activity level. A good rule of thumb is to start with cups of kibble daily and adjust as needed. Best Dog Food For Lab Puppies: The best dog foods for lab puppies include those that are high in protein and low in fillers. The food you should feed a black lab puppy is the same as for any other Labrador puppy. A chocolate lab puppy should be fed the same food as for any other Labrador puppy. A 2-year-old chocolate lab should eat about cups of kibble daily. You should stop feeding puppy food to your Labrador at around months of age. At this point, their growth plates will have closed, and they will no longer need the extra nutrients found in puppy food. Labradors live for years. They start to slow down around 7 and may develop some health problems in their senior years. You should also increase their exercise level. Lab breeders feed their dogs high-quality dog food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. A lab puppy should drink about 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. This amount may increase as they get older and more active. A labrador needs at least 30 minutes of exercise per day. This can be a combination of walking, running, and playing. Golden labs live for years. Chocolate labs live for years same like labs of any color. Labradors lose their baby teeth between 3 and 6 months of age. You can start to transition your puppy to eating twice a day at around 6 months of age. By the time they are 1 year old, they should eat only once daily. You should stop feeding your large breed puppy food at around 18 months of age. Why Are Labs So Hungry? Labradors are a very active breed of dog, and they need a lot of calories to fuel their energy levels. They are also prone to gaining weight, so keep a close eye on their food intake About The Author Shradha Kabra Shradha is a seasoned writer at Labradorandyou. Her experience as a pet owner and dog enthusiast drives her to create meticulously researched and fact-checked content, offering valuable insights on Labrador training, grooming, and health. Each article reflects Shradha's passion and dedication, enriched by personal experiences with her beloved Labradors, Tom, and Kurt. Whether exploring breed-specific training techniques or providing product reviews, Shradha ensures Labrador owners receive the most accurate, up-to-date, and trustworthy information, aimed at enhancing their companions' health and happiness. Keep an eye out for the nursing habits of the mother to ensure that everyone gets a fair share. Some puppies could be overfed while others are underfed, which may lead to differences in growth later on. If you notice some puppies getting thinner than the other litter members, consider consulting your vet for a puppy formula appropriate for them. Your puppies will develop most of their motor skills during their 3rd week, leaving them to slowly explore on their own but still watched over by their mother and you, as their owner. Lab pups might also want to nurse from their mom often due to their energy needs. Developing milk teeth also happens in the third week for Labrador puppies so it will be a challenge if you start weaning during this time. Start with a mix of puppy food and water in a ratio of — adding liquid will help them digest the solids easier. Instead, just wait for them to sniff the food and try to eat it out of curiosity. Remember to be patient when feeding. When your puppy reaches 5 weeks of age, they are likely to eat a bit more solid food than they did last week. By this time, you can try to gradually increase the amount of solid food in their bowl. You may also start to notice the mother doing her job of slowly letting go of her little ones when it comes to the nursing job. This does not generally mean that your puppies will no longer get nursed by their mother — the instances of nursing will only lessen during this transition period. Physical activity is common when your Labrador retriever puppy reaches 6 weeks old. Your pups might also run around even more and become slightly independent compared to when they were younger, which means less time with their mother to get milk. By 7 weeks of age, your puppies will have far less time being nursed by their mother. This translates to being almost done with the weaning process. Continue feeding them food and liquid mixture until only the solid food is left served in their food bowl. Aside from that, you may also want to add a bit of age-appropriate kibble suited for Labrador puppies that they can chew properly. Protein is an important part of their diet, which includes meat sources chicken, beef, and fish , which will help in their energy, strength, and overall health. Consider foods that are rich in protein rather than brands that only contain mostly fillers like corn and wheat. The ideal amount of food per day is 2 cups, which should be divided into 3 or 4 meals per day. When it comes to weight management, keep in mind that different Labrador breeds do exist. This means that not all puppies should have the same amount of food. Take time to observe your puppy visually if you are feeling their ribs. After all, sudden changes in their diet can result in stomach upsets! Food changes are also important to talk about. If, for some reason, the new Labrador pup owner has no access or little budget for the brand you used, consider close alternatives and make sure they introduce the new food properly, gradually, and slowly. Later on, during their 9th week, you can also give them home-cooked meals such as meat bought from the wet market. To avoid food contamination, especially if you live in coastal areas where bacteria could thrive easily, consider removing the food within 15 minutes of not being touched by your pup. This will also help the puppy get disciplined into only eating when they are truly hungry and not out of boredom. Once your Labrador puppy turns 11 weeks old, you could be surprised at their sudden growth. You may find yourself constantly buying stocks of puppy food since this is their peak developmental stage. Either way, as long as you stick as close to the schedule as possible, everything will be fine. Stick to feeding your Labrador retriever puppy about three to four meals per day. If your pup is extra active throughout the day, they might need up to 3 cups of food per day, equally divided into the meals we mentioned. By having three different meals, you are ensuring that your pup gets the right weight and a good amount of nutrition. After all, lab pups tend to eat a lot if not supervised! During their 13th week, lab puppies are likely to roam around and look for items that they might mistake as food. Your job, as their owner, is to keep an eye out for these objects and hide them before little Fido chews them! At times, a Labrador pup might look hungry due to excessive begging, but in reality, it could just be a behavior, so make sure the feeding schedule is strictly followed. It will also be a great bonding time with their owner! Recommended Food for Labrador Puppies On average, your Labrador pup should have around calories if they weigh around 22 pounds. Of course, this number will vary depending on their age, weight, genetics, and daily activities. With that said, what should you feed your lab puppy? Here are some great ideas on what to feed your pup, which can be found in both store food and raw diet plans. Meaty protein As with all dogs and most active breeds, a Labrador retriever needs a generous amount of protein in its diet. This includes chicken, beef, and fish, as well as other wild sources. Always look into the ingredients and make sure that a specific meat source is the first ingredient. If you are feeding raw meat instead of kibble, make sure it is handled properly to avoid bacterial infection. Another option is to incorporate canned wet puppy food with kibble, but make sure it is filler-free. Omega fatty acids Omega fatty acids are commonly found in fish and other seafood. Fish such as mackerel are good for lab puppies to boost their heart health. Aside from that, some omega fatty acids can improve their skin and coat appearance, which will help in handling irritations in the future. We all know the pain of grooming a shedding dog! Vegetables and fruits Greens are important for puppies as well because they will help with their overall digestion and their immune system. Organ meat You may also want to add organ meat to your puppy food, especially if you are feeding raw. Kidneys and liver are common organ meat to look for in a Labrador puppy diet. Organs can be found in store-bought wet or canned food but you can also prepare it at home from the market. Be sure to handle it properly to avoid food contamination. Foods with glucosamine As mentioned above, joint problems are often experienced by labs when they grow up. To prevent the onset of hip or elbow dysplasia, consider foods that are rich in glucosamine, such as shellfish, chicken feet, and beef bones. Bone soup or broth is also a good source of glucosamine. Foods to Avoid While we have some recommended foods for a lab puppy, there are also certain ingredients that you should avoid, such as the following: Fillers such as corn and wheat These fillers are often included in most commercial dog foods. Look for foods with fewer fillers and more protein. An obese puppy may grow into an unhealthy and unhappy dog later on in life. They can catch all sorts of health problems if their weight is not managed properly. For instance, hip dysplasia is more likely to happen if your puppy is too heavy. Moreover, sugary foods will cause diabetes if not supervised. Human foods toxic to dogs These include chocolate, garlic, avocado, grapes, lime, coffee caffeine , lemons, tea, onions, sugary foods, macadamia nuts, and most certainly alcohol. Here are some frequently asked concerns about their meals, diet, and more. If you notice a big change in their appetite, it can be a cause for concern. Changes in their regular food are a normal reason for a puppy to suddenly stop eating because it is new to them. Have you tried gradually changing the food in portions? First, put a little bit of the new food and more of the old food, and then gradually increase the portion of the new food after a few meals. Should I give my Labrador puppy supplements? Generally, lab puppies will already get the nutrients they need from the food you buy or prepare for them. Puppy food is usually manufactured and made to have more nutrients as compared to adult dog food, which is why it should already be sufficient for your Labrador puppy. When can I switch my Labrador puppy to adult food? The best time to make the switch is after their first birthday. Usually, by this time, your pup has reached adulthood and is no longer growing in height and weight. Keep in mind that transitioning from puppy to adult food still requires the ratio method. Put a little bit of the adult food at first into the puppy food mix. Raw feeding a Labrador puppy Many raw diet advocates stress the benefits of feeding this way, such as becoming free from fillers and artificial additives. Get your veterinarian or breeder involved if you want to start feeding a raw diet to your Labrador puppy because when done wrong, it could make your pup sick! Conclusion Labrador puppies, when fed properly, carefully, and smartly, will reward you with TLC and a warm companion for the years to come. Be sure to always stick to the schedule or else it could lead to obesity and joint problems later on! Always make time to prepare the best food for your Labrador pup so that they grow healthy and strong — enjoying life as they go! Before adopting a Labrador Retriever puppy, many owners go to great lengths to deduce the optimal food for their pup. From raw feed to canned food from a local pet store, there are plenty of dog food options for owners to consider, but which is the best dog food? Whether you feed your puppy a raw food diet or commercial dog foods, there are lots of ways for your pup to consume a balanced diet. There are plenty of sources that will describe the benefits of one diet over another, but remember that no one knows your puppy better than you. The decision to feed your dog a diet that you think is best is yours to make. There really is no right or wrong answer when it comes to selecting a food for your puppy. Your pooch will likely enjoy eating wet food just as much as they enjoy commercial dog food. So long as you feed your pup an adequate amount of food, they are likely to live a long and healthy life. If you would like specific advice about feeding your individual puppy, you may wish to consult with your veterinarian or other dog food expert. When you first bring your puppy home, it can be alarming if your dog does not touch its puppy food during the first few days at home. Is this cause for concern? Noticing that your precious pup is not eating can be a frightening realization. Prior to being welcomed to its forever home, your Lab puppy was accustomed to living with its mother and siblings. Therefore, being uprooted from this life can initially be a startling experience for a dog. Fortunately, puppies should develop an appetite within a day or two of entering their forever home-they just need a short time to adjust to their new life. If, after a few days, your puppy is still not eating their dog food, it may be a wise idea to have your puppy evaluated by a vet. Feeding A Two-Month-Old Labrador Retriever Two months old is about the earliest point at which a Labrador puppy can be brought home by their new family. When a Labrador puppy begins to eat solid food, it will not be eating a ton of food. So, owners can start their Lab puppy off with somewhere around 0. As your puppy grows older and gets bigger, owners should look to increase the amount of food for their Labrador pup. By the time a puppy is nearing three months old, it should be eating well over 1 cup of food every day. Some puppies may be consuming close to two cups of dog food at this time. This increase in size means that their appetite has also surely grown since bringing them home. By the time a Labrador puppy is around 3 months old, it should be eating close to 1. Large three-month-old Labrador puppies can be away a substantial amount of food as they are near four months old. Some puppies will be able to consume around 3 cups of food daily at this point in their lives, but most will be eating closer to 2 cups of dog food every day. If your pup seems hungry and looks to be a healthy weight, there is no need for owners to be concerned about how much food their three-month-old Lab is consuming. Your precious pooch will start to look more like an adult with each passing day. Therefore, it is essential to feed your dog enough food to promote the weight gain that makes dogs thrive. Four-month-old Labrador Retrievers should be given at least two cups of food daily. The biggest, most ravenous Labs will eat close to 3. However, only dogs on the large end of the puppy spectrum will need to eat this much at this time. Average four to five-month-old Labs should eat anywhere from 2 to 3 cups of food daily. Labrador Retriever teenagers are characterized by disproportionate body parts, distracted behavior, and dispositions that range from silly to ornery. Therefore, getting enough food to support such development is imperative. A six-month-old Labrador will surely be able to eat at least 2. This will ensure proper growth for your pooch. As your puppy reaches the point in which it is 7 to 8 months old, continue to increase the amount of food that your puppy receives. Labrador Retriever puppies that are close to 9 months old can eat more than 4 cups of food daily. However, your furry friend is more likely to consume 2. Instead, your pup is likely nearing its adult size. So, how much food should ten to twelve-month-old Labs be eating? Puppies that consume quantities of food on the low end of the spectrum should be consuming at least 3 cups of food every day during this time. On the other hand, large Lab pups that are between 10 to 12 months old could be eating 4. If your puppy is on the brink of adulthood, it would be wise to consider weaning it off of its puppy food in favor of adult dog food. All Lab puppies should be offered adult dog food when they reach maturity, as such food replaces nutrients that are essential for puppies with ingredients that benefit adults. Whereas puppies should eat food that increases their body weight, adult Labs should eat food that maintains their weight. So, if you think it may be time to switch your Labrador Retriever to an adult dog food diet, consult with your vet and find a food that is best for your adult Lab. Of course, the mature size of your pooch will dictate how much food it can and should be consuming every day. Generally, it is advisable to feed an adult Labrador anywhere from 3 to just over 4 cups of food every day. Gauge the weight and appetite of your pet to determine the perfect amount for your furry friend. Though the above recommendation will be perfect for most adult Labs, there are some instances in which mature Labradors will require more adult food. Pregnant Or Lactating Labs A Labrador who is pregnant or lactating will require substantial amounts of food to nourish herself and her litter of pups. Therefore, owners should be prepared to offer vast quantities of food to their Labrador mothers. While a typical adult Labrador will consume 3 to 4 cups of food every day, Labrador mothers should be offered around 6 cups of food at least to keep up with their enormous energy requirements. If your mother Labrador snarfs this food down and still seems hungry afterward, be prepared to offer her additional food. Especially Active Labs If your Labrador is an athletic specimen, it may need to consume more than a typical adult Lab to fuel the exercise regime that such a dog is accustomed to. Dogs that receive more than one hour of daily exercise could be considered especially active dogs. Owners can begin by offering these pooches 4. If they still seem hungry, owners can increase the amount of food given to these dogs. Once a dog reaches the golden years of its life, it is once again time to switch up its diet. Senior dogs should consume food that caters to the needs of their aging bodies. These pooches can get away with eating a low-protein diet whereas such food would not be appropriate for puppies or adults. Given that senior dogs are usually not especially active dogs, they do not require as much food compared to adult and large puppies. Therefore, supplying a senior Lab with anywhere from 2 to just over 3 cups of food daily should be plenty for your pooch. Now that you know how much to feed your Labrador, you are likely curious about the number of times that your dog should be fed every day. Some may be looking for a quick answer about how often to feed a Labrador every day, but the truth is nuanced. When it comes to feeding your Lab, it turns out that Labs of different ages should be fed different amounts of food every day. Read on to discover the perfect number of meals for your Lab. An infant Labrador Retriever should have its daily food allotment broken up into at least 4 meals every day. This will help supply these petite pups with the energy that they need to get through the day. Lab puppies that are four to twelve months old do not require as many meals as their younger counterparts. However, these dogs should still receive three meals per day to support their rapid metabolism. Feeding one meal in the morning, one in the afternoon, and one in the evening is optimal. Adult Labs do not need to eat as many meals are puppies due to their slower metabolisms. Supplying an adult Labrador Retriever with two meals every day would be perfect for these dogs. Ideally, adult dogs will be fed one meal in the morning and one in the evening. When your furry friend reaches the point in their life where they are considered to be a senior dog, your pooch will have the slowest metabolism in their life. The slow metabolism for senior Labs means that these dogs do not need to eat as frequently as they did when they were younger. In fact, senior Labrador Retrievers can get by with eating a single meal every day. One to two meals per day is ideal for a senior Labrador Retriever. Owners can see if their senior Lab prefers one or two meals each day by allowing them to try each option. Is this because these dogs are prone to obesity or simply because there are so many Labs out and about? It turns out that Labrador Retrievers are more prone to obesity than many other dog breeds. Labs have evolved to be very active dogs. If owners fail to provide their dogs with proper exercise and feed their furry friends excessive amounts of food, there is a good chance that owners will end up with overweight dogs. Why Is My Labrador Overweight? If you are someone who owns an overweight Labrador, you are not alone. Overweight Labs are still lovable pooches, but they could stand to lose some pounds for their own good. Obviously, feeding your dog less food is likely to be one of the keys to helping your canine companion to lose weight. However, you may be wondering what else you can do to help your Labrador lose weight. Well, if you do not frequently exercise your dog, then this is a good place to start. Try feeding your dog its typical amount of food but increasing its exercise to see if it starts to lose weight. For those that are still struggling to get your pooch to lose weight, be sure to cut out table scraps and dog treats from the diet of your dog. Moreover, be sure that you are not free feeding your Labrador Retriever. Free feeding is acceptable for puppies when they are infants, but Labradors that are any other age should not be free fed, for this can also result in a chunky pooch. If you fear that your dog is consuming its food too quickly, there are plenty of feeding methods to help your pooch slow down. Obesity in dogs is a serious issue. We briefly touched on this subject when discussing the best foods for Lab puppies, and the same advice will apply here. Some owners feed raw to their Labs, while others may feed kibble. Does this mean that those who practice raw feeding are likely to own healthier dogs compared to those feeding kibble to their dogs? Of course not! High-quality dog food may take many different forms. A raw diet could provide your dog with all of the nutrients that it needs, but it is not inherently better for your dog than dry food or homemade food. Ultimately, owners know their Lab better than anyone else, so they should have the final say regarding what to feed their dog. Deciding what to feed your Labrador can be an overwhelming prospect. Consult A Veterinarian Inquiring with a trusted veterinarian about the diet of your Labrador Retriever will help an owner determine the optimal food intake for their precious pooch. They may also recommend certain dog foods that can be purchased to feed a Labrador. A feeding chart will provide information related to how much food to provide a Lab based on its age. A feeding guide may even break down how much food to feed a Labrador based on its weight. There are plenty of Labrador Puppy feeding chart options and feeding guides for adults. Finding a feeding chart that was created by a trusted source like the American Kennel Club can help you make an informed decision about how much to feed your furry friend. Ultimately, a feeding guide is a good place to turn if you find yourself in need of a quick answer about the topic of how much to feed your Lab. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.

Gundog expert Jayne Coley summarises the early training routine that she followed with her own young labrador, Trade. Register for our newsletter To continue reading this content please register for our newsletter. You have to adapt your training to suit the type of puppy you have. The steps below summarise the training routine that I have followed with my young dog, Trade, who has an easy-going temperament. I began to train him properly in the New Year when he was 9 — 10 months old, though I usually wait until the shooting season is over when I have time to do a little each day on a regular basis. Step 1: Foundations By the age of 9 — 10 months, Trade had been toilet trained, knew his name and came back when I called him. He had been well socialised and behaved in company on a lead, was used to going out in my vehicle and had learned to swim. Trade has never been chastised for carrying something he should not, e. I then place the item out of reach. Crucially, by this age we had built up a good bond before formal training began. Step 2: Heelwork It was so wet and muddy at home so I started training on the patio and in our yard where the pup is restricted to a certain area and there are no distractions. We began with heelwork on the lead. To keep the exercise interesting, I walked in straight lines, did figures of eight, included the occasional tight turn and altered my pace. This all helped to keep Trade focused on what we were doing. If he didn't sit immediately, I repeated the command whilst pushing his bottom down with my left hand. Once confident with this routine, I put a lightweight collar on him and progressed to walking to heel off the lead, using my hands to encourage him to keep his head up and concentrate on me, when necessary. If he did move, I calmly walked up to him and, holding his collar, took him back to the exact spot he moved from in a quiet but positive manner. I slowly built up the distance until I could walk around him in a huge circle. Once he did this perfectly, I introduced the recall. Instead of always walking back to him, I would call him back to me, encouraging him to come straight to my hands which were cupped gently in front of my hips. Once I was happy with this, I began to mix up heelwork with sit and stay, and recall. When he didn't move, I quietly picked the dummy up myself. Gradually — over several days — I built on this until I could throw a couple of dummies, one at a time, over and around him and he remained steady. It is always important to lift the pup's top lip out of the way when you put a dummy in his mouth. Trade was reluctant to do this at first, but with patience and perseverance over several days, he accepted it. Slowly, I built on this until I could walk away backwards the length of the lead and call him to me, concentrating on perfecting a good delivery, using my hands to encourage him to bring the dummy right to me with his head held nice and high. Step 6: Retrieving Next, we worked on being sent for a retrieve. I then bent down and pointed my right hand towards the dummy whilst looking at the top of his head to make sure he was looking past my hand at it, before saying his name positively and at the same time letting go of one end of the lead so that he instinctively ran forward and picked the dummy. Initially, I sat back on my heels, which encouraged him to run straight back to me. Slowly we built on this until the lead was no longer needed. Sometimes I would send him for the dummy, sometimes I'd pick it up myself, or I'd walk him to heel in the opposite direction before sending him. On other occasions, I would stand well back from Trade and throw a dummy over his head, call him to me and then send him for the dummy from my position. I like to vary things as this keeps him interested and wondering what I am going to do next. He was at first a little unsure, so I repeated it in a lighter tone, to which he responded. In return, I praised him quietly. Always remember, training a dog is like building a house — it is imperative that the foundations are put down properly, otherwise, sooner or later, cracks will appear. Keep it light and encouraging when you praise, and low and gruff when you scold, so your puppy knows the difference. Especially if you have a boisterous puppy. Keep everything calm and relaxed, and do things in your time. And yet, many new owners get so caught up in the cuteness of these bundles of fur that they disregard any training until the dog is much older. Sometimes new owners are just overwhelmed with taking care of their new puppy. Others lack the information needed to make good decisions regarding training for their new family member. Unfortunately, though, some bad behaviors or missed socialization and exposure opportunities are difficult to address with an older dog. So, if your goal is for you new retriever to eventually grow into an excellent duck dog, here is a guide to raising your Lab puppy to be a duck or gun dog. Picking up the puppy The journey with your new retriever pup starts the day you pick him or her up from the breeder. Hopefully you have done your homework and selected a litter of puppies with parents who have proven trainability. If you have a pick from the litter, you will want to take some time to observe the puppies. Even so, most trainers will tell you that picking a puppy is a complete crapshoot, meaning there really is no way to know how good the dog will be while looking at them as a puppy. Genetics and a proven pedigree are the best way to stack the odds in your favor from the start. Beyond that, if you have a good breeder, they are the next best source for information regarding the pups. A good breeder will give you a recommendation based on what you plan to use the pup for and your family situation. Check out this post on searching for a great retriever puppy and what to look for in breeders. If possible, bring someone with you to pick up the puppy. While you can put a puppy in a crate to transport them home, leaving the litter is a traumatic time for most puppies. Being held on the way home is a good way to start bonding with the puppy. Learn what to buy for your new Lab puppy. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. The first week raising your Labrador Retriever puppy There is very little training needed the first week you have your puppy home. Use this time to hold, pet and play with your new puppy. Bonding with the puppy is important and this is a good time to do that. You will likely be exhausted this week from getting up multiple times each night to let your puppy outside. Learn more in What should I do the first week with my new Lab puppy? Socialization is key for retriever gun dog puppies While socialization is important for all dogs, it is essential for retriever puppies destined to hunt. Socialization is the act of putting your retriever puppy in new situations and allowing the puppy to figure it out. Your puppy may handle new situations well, or she might show timid or frightened behaviors. This is not the time to coddle your future gun dog. Dogs are very aware of their owners and if you act or acknowledge your puppies fear, they will likely think you are scared too. This is the opposite of what we are trying to achieve with socialization. We want puppies to learn to adjust quickly to new situations. We want them to learn how to figure out new conditions and handle them without fear or hesitation. Puppies need to be socialized to people also. Let your puppy interact with people of all ages, including children. In addition, it can be helpful if they are also socialized to other dogs and cats. And yet we see too many retrievers with little to no retrieving desire. Sometimes this is just the result of bad breeding, but it can also be the result of poor introduction to retrieving or using the wrong items for retrieving. Many people like to play fetch with their puppy using a ball or Frisbee. But if your puppy is destined to be a hunting partner, this is going to make some retrieving problems down the line. We may use a ball to encourage a very young week old puppy to retrieve, IF, and only IF, the puppy is struggling with retrieving desire. Otherwise, we strongly discourage ongoing use of these items. Gun dogs and duck dogs are working dogs and they need to retrieve birds that fall to the ground. The rolling action of the ball or frisbee will create an excitement and energy that will make retrieving birds seem boring. We have found that dogs that have only retrieved balls or Frisbee often struggle when they need to retrieve a bumper or bird. We have an entire post on this subject, see How can I teach my retriever puppy to fetch? Expose your Labrador puppy to common hunting elements A retriever that is going to be expected to hunt, should be introduced to hunting equipment and elements at an early age. Hills and mounds, flat areas and shallow divots are terrain that a hunting retriever should learn to traverse with ease. In addition to land, different water is also an important factor. Lakes are good, but you should also try to expose your puppy to dirty water. Water with lily pads, cat tails and algae are all things a duck dog will need to handle to work. Hunting equipment Labrador retriever puppies need to learn all about the equipment you use when hunting. Doing this when they are young and continuing the exposure as they grow, will make this second nature to them. Boats and blinds If you hunt out of a boat or blind, introduce your puppy to it. For boats, start on land. Get your puppy comfortable getting in and out of the boat. Throw retrieves from the boat. Similarly, introduce your dog to the blind as a good thing. If you are using a dog blind or hut, make sure your spend lots of time getting your pup comfortable going into and out of it. Make it a fun place to go to get retrieves. Duck or goose decoys If you will use decoys when hunting, take time to expose your puppy to them. Many times over the next few months, put some out on your lawn and let your puppy learn what they are. Eventually, move them to water and again allow your pup to explore them. Throw retrieves through them and teach the dog that he can ignore the decoys. Guns This is one of the most important things that you need to exposure your new puppy to. And it really needs to be done right. The last thing you want to do is create a gun-shy dog. That is very difficult to fix and the dog may never be able to hunt if the damage is too deep. Learn more about how to do this correctly in Introduction to gunfire. Basic obedience for your gun dog puppy Your puppy is ready to learn obedience early on, and you will find that if you start when they are only a couple months old, they will learn quicker and be more obedient as they age. This will make a huge difference as they get older. Teaching HERE to young pups will require a long lead. Squat down a few feet from your puppy and say HERE as you gently pull them to you. Praise is essential with young pups, but the praise should be given when the puppy does something right. For instance, you say SIT and push his bottom down. You can use treats to teach your puppy obedience and reward him or her for obeying commands. But treats should only be used for very young puppies under 4 months. Many Labs will soon learn to only obey when given a treat, that is not the lesson you want your dog to learn. It can be difficult to discipline a cute little puppy, but it is essential. Here at Otter Tail Kennels, we get more than our share of calls from people whose puppies are out of control and causing problems in the home. The pups are causing friction in the family relationships. Small issues often become much larger issues if they remain uncorrected. If you see your puppy doing something wrong, you need to take action to let him know that the behavior is not acceptable. Final thoughts on raising a lab puppy to be a duck or gun dog The time to start training your Labrador puppy to be a duck or gun dog is now. Right away. Even if you plan to send your retriever puppy to a professional trainer in the future, you still want to take the time to socialize, expose, teach and discipline your dog now. Each week your puppy is growing and learning, and those first five months are the perfect time to get him or her off on the right foot. The socialization, exposure, and obedience are all steppingstones they need to advance in their role as a hunting partner. Do not skimp or disregard this time. You can give your ultimate duck dog some essential skills — the ability to adjust to every and all situations with ease. Nothing could be more important. You can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time happy retrieving. Raising a lab puppy to be a duck or gun dog. This is is a very strong breeding presenting 14 National Field Champions in their combined pedigrees. She is a muscular rock solid 52 pound female of pure energy. She can outrun anyone and her love of retrieving is pure and always front and center. She is definitely her mother's Jet daughter. She taught her well, she is a strong hunting partner and a loyal family companion who loves with her whole heart. She trains the young ones around Bailiwick, she is so very smart. Spend one minute with her and it is obvious, she is "Over the Top", she truly has it all. Retrieve, yes she loves retrieving, ask her and you shall receive. She is a devoted companion who loves with her whole heart, will work all day, not a problem with her. At the end of a long day she is not hard to find, she will be right at your side. This beautiful gal was born dreaming if ducks and duck ponds. Radley is Mr. Personality, he will put a smile on your face. We can retrieve all day or we can just visit and be cool, either way not a problem for Radley. He is truly a pleasure to train, so smart just tell him once and he has it down pat!!!!! This is a very strong breeding.Her love is retrieving, if you have the time she has the energy. She is dedicated, loving and very smart. Training her is a pleasure. What a loving personality, she will put a smile on your face. This is a very strong breeding. Stella presents three National Champions in her pedigree

They are also popular choices for families with allergies, as they do not shed as much as other breeds. Poodle Mixes come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, and colors, making them one of the most popular hybrid dog breeds. While all Poodle Mixes share some common features, their individual personalities can vary widely. Some Poodle Mixes are confident and outgoing, while others are more reserved and shy. Some breeds tend to be independent thinkers, while others are more eager to please. The best way to determine what personality type is right for you is to meet with a local breeder or rescue organization that specializes in Poodle Mixes. Poodle Mix Puppy Health Considerations Though generally very happy and long-lived — with an average lifespan of around years — our Poodle Mixes for sale are not without their unique health concerns. Like every breed of dog, there are a few conditions you should be aware of before you consider purchasing one of our Poodle Mix puppies for sale. Understanding the risks allows you to know the signs and prevent small health concerns from turning into big ones. Of course, not all Poodle Mixes will develop these conditions, but it is important to be aware of them. Finding a Poodle Mix puppy for sale from a reputable breeder can also dramatically — although, not eliminate — the risk of your dog developing some of these conditions. Regardless of the type of Poodle Mix you have, there are a few things you need to know about coat care. First, regular brushing is essential to prevent mats and tangles. Finally, Poodle Mixes need to be groomed every weeks by a professional groomer. This includes a bath, brush out, trimming of the coat, and nail clipping. By following these simple coat care tips, you can help your Poodle Mix look and feel his best. Meet Poodle Mix Puppies for Sale. If a Mini Poodle Mix takes after their Mini Poodle parent, they will be a small dog that is affectionate, loving, and playful. Miniature Poodles are intelligent, sensitive dogs with cheerful dispositions. They tend to get along well with children, other pets, and other dogs. They even tend to be good with strangers as long as they have been properly socialized. They do tend to alert you of things, which can make them prone to barking. Working to train your dog to stop barking early on can keep this from becoming a nuisance behavior. If the other parent breed has similar traits, then you can expect a similar temperament from a Miniature Poodle Mix. You can also meet the mother in person to see what temperament she has and the behavior she is modeling for her puppies. The breeder should have started socialization and training. However, it is up to you to continue to train and socialize a puppy once you get them home to ensure they grow into a well-rounded dog. A Miniature Poodle is a highly adaptable dog that does well in apartments as well as larger homes and in most climates. Because they are so people-oriented, they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. If the other parent breed is similar, then you can also expect a high adaptable Miniature Poodle Mix. The other breed in the mix is likely to have their own quirks, so you do still want to ask the breeder about them. Are mixed-breed dogs healthier than purebred dogs? Just as a mix can inherit none of the conditions common to their parent breeds, they could also inherit some combination of them or all of them. Make sure you ask about the health history of both of the parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. Miniature Poodles tend to be intelligent dogs that are eager to please and easy to train. They tend to be a good fit for owners of all experience levels. As long as the other parent breed is also a good fit for all experience levels, then you can expect a Mini Poodle Mix to be highly trainable as well. If the other parent breed is more difficult to train, then you will want to prepare for that possibility in a Miniature Poodle Mix. A mixed-breed can inherit a coat similar to one of their parents or a coat that is some combination of them both. If a Miniature Poodle Mix inherits the Poodle coat, it will be low-shedding, require daily brushing, and require professional grooming every weeks. Once or twice monthly nail trims keeps them from growing too long. Weekly ear checks with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. Brushing teeth daily or using an enzyme toothpaste every day in addition to cleanings at the vet as needed are ideal dental care for dogs. Although they are small, Miniature Poodles are high-energy dogs that require daily walks plus playtime and extra activity to be happy and healthy. If the other parent breed is also a high-energy breed, then you can expect a Mini Poodle Mix to also be a high-energy dog. If the other parent breed has a lower energy level, a Mini Poodle Mix could take after them, but you still want to be prepared for the potential of a high-energy dog. A Miniature Poodle is usually inches tall and weighs pounds. The other parent breed can have a big effect on this, especially if they are the mother, so you want to ask the breeder about them. Miniature Poodles generally live for years. Although the other parent breed may affect this slightly, you should be able to expect a similar life span in a Mini Poodle Mix. Featured Miniature Poodle Mix Article.

Applications are here on the web site. Our story began with one red standard poodle puppy named Sienna. Rob and I believe when we first held her, that the seed for Winters Wind was planted. It is fascinating how the human heart beat can connect with the heart of our canine family. Parents can understand, as it is similar to the bond that happens when you first hold your newborn. Often we hear from people who do not own a Standard Poodle, that they are fru fru dogs. Far from it! Here at Winters Wind we believe that the Standard Poodle has the capability to perform at any task. We see this in our poodles. We hope to add search and rescue work to this list in the future. It takes time; not just in chores and raising puppies, rather in researching for the right lines and checking for genetic issues within those lines. There is the cost of getting dogs and then they may not make the cut after investing in training, showing, genetic testing and vet bills. So then we start again with a new puppy and the investment begins again. I found one on Pet Finder for less. A puppy is in investment in your family. I remind folks you can invest in a healthy puppy or spend money on vet bills for a less expensive puppy. Winters Wind has health tested poodles because our mission is to improve this amazing and versatile breed. In your puppy packet you can request a copies of all the testing and results or they are available on the OFA site. Diversity is needed within the breed. Not all Poodles are created equal. Winters Wind strives to give each puppy born here an edge or a jump start. Beginning with Momma getting excellent nutrition, supplements, exercise and health checks. Puppies are born in a whelping room right off our bedroom video under the litters tab We have invested in a state of art neonatal unit which includes an special incubator Puppy Warmer , oxygen bubblier, uniquely designed whelping box and our vet makes house calls. You can google these training methods to learn more. On a side note that Dr. Jeannie mentioned in the article owns a Winters Wind Poodle. We also use Puppy Culture in raising these wonderful puppies. Our puppies are given toddler interactive toys for increased cognitive skills, we have a puppy play gym concept is similar to the play sets for infants and toddlers , we host puppy play days; we invite friends and families to come and socialize with our puppies. Puppies when older are exposed to kittens, cats, and other small dogs Yorkies. Puppies are beginning house training at 4 weeks special whelping box design and begin crate training before leaving our home. Puppies move from their whelping room around the age of 4 weeks to our living room. Here they are exposed to the tv, vacuum and other family noises; from here they can romp freely around our home. This is what we believe sets, a Winters Wind Poodle apart. Like children they say the most informative years are up to age 8. Our philosophy is the first 10 weeks of a puppies life are critical for cognitive, social, emotional and physical development. This is why we keep our pups until at least 10 weeks of age. Winters Wind is very proud to be working with serveral Service Dog Organizations, by not only breeding dogs they use but helping to establish through our lines their own Poodle service dog breeding programs! Service Dogs is our passion, however we are very proud of the other legacy we leave. Our dogs are beautiful and also very talented. I truly believe that our dogs are exceptional! They are exceptional! We believe this creates the overall picture of a poodle that glides down the sidewalk, makes heads turn in the show ring, leaps in the fields and creates the wonderful silhouette seen around the world in the Poodle. In breeding we have a high standard for temperament, performance and structure in every Poodle we breed. A poodle is a very active, intelligent and elegant-appearing dog, squarely built, well proportioned, moving soundly and carrying himself proudly. Life for Galavanting Poodles includes hiking, camping, lake and river adventures, as well as backcountry experiences. Outdoor experiences are very important to the growth and well-being of our poodles. Our goal is to raise well-rounded poodles that are equally at home on the sofa as they are in the mountains of Alaska. All of the poodles in our kennel compete in the conformation dog show ring and must earn the title of AKC Champion before being considered for breeding. We use the conformation ring to prove our stock by making certain the poodles we move forward in our Galavanting line are. All puppies at Galavanting Poodles are nurtured through the Puppy Culture program. Puppies are carefully evaluated, both by Melissa as well as outside experts, for temperment, structure and biddability before being placed in their forever homes. Bringing new puppy lives into this world is something we take very seriously. Every puppy is carefully and meticulously planned. The dam and sire of each litter is health tested according to the Poodle Club of America health standards. Puppies Well bred, well raised, well loved We breed poodles with the goal of bringing their natural qualities to perfection Breeding purebred standard poodles is a passion for us at Galavanting Poodles. We are fortunate enough to have access to lovely pedigree lines that date back more than years. Each new litter of poodle puppies that are born in our kennel, strives to improve on the previous generation. We breed to preserve the original standard poodle and its purpose as a companion and helpmate to humans. Our puppies possess the qualities poodles were originally bred to exhibit. They are versatile poodles who are equally at home, binging Netflix, as they are hiking in the backcountry of Alaska. Galavanting puppies are loved all over the world. They lead active lives as valuable family companions, and sporting competitors. They work as service dogs trained to meet the individual and specific needs of their people. They fly in bush planes in Alaska and lounge in brownstones in NYC. If you think you would be a good fit for a puppy from Galavanting Poodles, please fill out the form below to begin the vetting process. Our promise to you is that your Galavanting puppy will be worth it! Any photos that are not mine, I have permission from owners to post. I will also include facts about new testing for modifiers and intensity genes that have been found within the last year or so. Some very exciting things will be coming our way for color testing! There are three legitimate and ethical breed clubs that are the main registries in the US and Canada for solids and these are their breed standards. Please do not be fooled by breeders trying to sell you dogs registered with these clubs. On the flip side however, dogs registered or shown in the clubs above do not guarantee quality dogs or an ethical breeder. Any dog not owned by myself past or present, have been given to me with permission from their owners. Huge thanks to their owners for their permission and photos and their breeders for bringing these beautiful dogs into the world! Cream "e" E locus-photo Harper Alue Poodles Cream is a color that tends to fade into white as the dog ages. As puppies they can either have a cream coloring behind the ears or their whole body can be cream. As adults they can retain spots of cream behind the ears like Harper here. Some dogs do keep a cream tint into adulthood like the dog below. Creams should have dark eyes and dark inky black pigment in their points; their nose, eye rims, lips, and pads. If you have a cream born with liver points, they have incorrect pigment. Creams should have black or self colored ie clear nails. White "e" E locus We have the last in the E series, white! White is timeless, white is classic. White Poodles should have dark eyes, nice dark inky black pigment on their noses and eye rims. They should also have black or self colored nails. Whites can also get what is called "snow nose" across many breeds; in the winter, their dark pigment will fade into a liver color that will then return in the summer. This is not the same as poor pigment. You will see white Poodles with both dark, almost black looking skin when shaved in a Continental, and they can also have white skin. Dark pigment is preferred but there is nothing wrong with a dog with light skin. With whites, there are a number born with a slighty creamy tinge to their coat but grow out into a white coat. True whites, called "ice white" in the breed, are rather rare. Reds tend to fade to an apricot color or a light "washed out" red. There are of course reds who do not fade, but when purchasing a red be aware it's a possibility. There are breeders working towards breeding dark, holding reds, but that can also be a catch .Reds should have dark eyes and dark, inky black points; eye rims, lips, nose, and pads. If a red has liver pigment or spotty pigment, that is incorrect and is a major fault in the breed ring. Reds should have black or self colored ie "brown" nails. Apricot is a less intense version of red. Apricots tend to keep their color more, but they also can start out darker and fade to a shade of dark cream. Apricots should also have dark, inky black pigment on their points, however amber eyes and liver points are permitted but not desired. Apricots should have black or self colored nails as well. Apricots and reds are the "newest" color in the history of the breed, so unfortunately the history with these lines and how the popularity of them exploded, they were bred for color for a very long time before temperament, structure, and health were put first. Brown "b" b locus Firstly it needs to be said that Poodles are not chocolate, they are brown. Brown is recessive to black, which is why it is "b" instead of "B". Brown Poodles will always have lighter eyes, liver points, and self colored nails. Browns, like reds, are affected by fading. There are browns that are holding, but when purchasing a brown be aware fading will happen to a certain degree. There are breeders that are working towards breeding holding browns, and there is inherently nothing wrong with that as long as temperament, health, and breed type come first before coat color. Black "B" B locus Black Poodles. Timeless, classic, stunning!! Blacks should be born inky black and should stay inky black. However, you will hear the term "bad black" which is different from a blue dog. A bad black simply refers to a dog that does not hold it's coat pigment. A black dog who's coat has been sun damaged does not mean it is a bad black. Black dogs should have dark eyes, inky black pigment from top to bottom! Blues will look black when they are born, but there is an "old breeders tale" that blue and silver puppies will have white hairs in between their toes, but that is not a blanket truth. Blue Poodles will fade at varying speeds and degree. The two blues included are siblings but have not faded to the same degree. Most will fade into their 5th and 6th birthdays, but there are also some who hold onto a very slight blue tint for years. Blues will have dark eyes and dark pigment on their eye rims, noses, lips, and paw pads. Nails will also be black. One that is my personal favorite and one that has stumped us for quite some time! Silver is a recessive to black like blue. Silvers are born black and by their first face shave their face should start to be silvering. Silvers, like blues, do not fade on a set scale. It is thought there are modifiers in play that determine how blues and silvers clear and to what degree. You can see silvers from a darker color all the way to platinum silver. Silvers should have dark eyes and dark inky black eye rims, lips, nose, and paw pads. My favorite brownies! Silver beiges are brown based silvers, and like silvers, you will see by their first face shave a silver brown color. Silver beige Poodles are born brown and lighten with age, by two most are a beautiful silver color with a stunning brown hue, but all fade at different speeds and different shades. Silver beige Poodles will have light eyes, liver points, and self colored nails. Parti Standard Poodles - If you love spots, you may want a parti poodle. A parti poodle is a poodle of white and another color. There are several distinct patterns: the tuxedo, spotted, and abstract all refer to a poodle that is white and another color. That color can be black, brown, red, apricot, creme, silver, blue, grey, cafe-au-lait, or silver-beige. Parti poodles are usually more than half white with colored spots. They can range from almost a solid white with just a few spots of color to the more colorful tuxedos. Tuxedos look like a poodle dressed for a party. They have white on the legs and a white collar that may or may not go completely around the neck. Tuxedo-colored poodles also have white on the belly that should extend up to the chest. Some tuxedos have colored legs almost to the feet and others have white all the way up to their back. Abstract poodles have limited white markings and are almost a solid colored dog. The most common abstract poodle marking is a simple white mark on the chest. White splashes of color may also occur on the face, head, chest, and feet. Abstract poodles sometimes have a white chest and white feet that look like they have been dipped in paint. Ticking marks are the small spots found within the white parts of the dog. Dogs may have little to no ticking. Ticking on legs may look like small spots or be large enough to look like stripes. We have standard poodle puppies for sale in these parti color combinations: black and white parti, brown and white parti, red and white parti, apricot and white parti, blue and white parti and silver and white parti. Multi-colored poodles include parti poodles, abstracts, brindles and phantom poodles.