diet for french bulldog puppies

The protein will come from readily available sources such as chicken or beef, and not exotic or boutique sources like kangaroo or venison as you saw in second study mentioned above. According to the AKC , quality, regulated animal byproducts can be good for your dog. These byproducts can include organ meats or entrails, which often contain more nutrients than, say, plain chicken breast. Another misconception is that dogs should eat grain-free diets. As you saw in the second study mentioned above, that can actually be very harmful for your dog and cause DCM. But food labels can be a little vague and confusing, so below is an explanation of what some of these terms mean, according to the Merck Veterinary Manual and the AKC. There is one caveat though. For instance, flaked corn, ground corn, and kibbled corn could be sprinkled in an ingredient list and not be listed as the first few ingredients, but in reality, if you were to add them all up they are all corn, after all , you might find that this food is made mostly of corn. The same goes for chicken, chicken meal, and chicken byproduct. Meat vs. Meat Meal vs. The quality of these ingredients can vary widely, so be sure to talk to your vet about this and choose a reputable brand of food. Below are a few examples: Obesity. Golden Retrievers love food and they do have a tendency to become overweight if you let them. This problem can often affect these next two problems… Joint issues. Golden Retrievers are prone to joint issues and growing too fast because they eat too much can often make this problem worse more on this in the next section. Heart issues. Skin issues. Golden Retrievers are prone to hot spots and excess protein in their diets can be a factor that causes them. Many goldens suffer from food allergies. One cup of Brand X food may have calories per cup, while Brand Y has calories per cup. During a vet visit our veterinarian said he looked too small and lethargic for a puppy his age about 8 weeks at the time , and he recommended we feed him a little more. As far as how often to feed your puppy, this same rule applies. For us, we fed Oliver three times per day until he was a little over a year old. Getting a Golden Retriever Puppy? Get the gameplan for raising them right with the Golden Retriever Puppy Handbook. Those two statements may sound random, but they are related. According to the Banfield Pet Hospital , overfeeding your Golden Retriever can cause them to grow too fast and increase their risk of hip dysplasia. You probably noticed that a raw diet was the fourth-most popular diet Golden Retriever owners feed their dog. Since puppies are growing and adults are just maintaining their weight, they have different dietary needs. And for fats, puppy food should have at least 8. As far as when to switch from puppy food to adult food, talk to your veterinarian. To see a list of other milestones your puppy will hit like when they lose their first teeth, or when their coat is fully grown check out this timeline of Golden Retriever puppy milestones. Like most of the other questions in this post, this is something to talk to your veterinarian about. Many foods will have the same vitamins that pills have already in them, but on the other hand, some breeders require that you give your puppy vitamins for their health guarantee to be valid. First, we unknowingly started him off on one of the brands listed in the graph above that is correlated with DCM. Then we switched to another brand that he just sort of liked. If we were to have another puppy, we would definitely start with the Royal Canin Golden Retriever Puppy food. How To Switch Food Brands The other day I was talking to someone who was complaining that her puppy was having lots of stomach issues. Dogs have sensitive stomachs so if you want to switch foods, you need to do it slowly. You should take about a week to transition from the old food to the new brand. Also consider how long the brand of food has been around, whether or not there have been any recalls of that brand, and if there is any research behind it. What do you feed your Golden Retriever puppy? Have any questions about what to feed them? Let me know in the comments below! Related articles:. Royal Canin makes dry food tailored explicitly to particular breeds. Its Golden food variation uses chicken and brown rice ingredients to support digestive health, strong bones, and a healthy coat. Gorgeous coats, healthy body conditions, great activity levels- perfect puppies! With a combination of healthy proteins, fruits, vegetables, and more, this dry dog food will encourage healthy muscle development in your Golden Retriever as well as strong teeth, a healthy heart, and improved skin and coat texture. Looking at the ingredients makes me feel that I have purchased a quality product for my guy. With ingredients like real protein, fruits, and vegetables, this dry food increases energy, strengthens bones, improves immune strength, and neutralizes free radicals. Her coat is healthier and shiny. She even trimmed down a little as her old dog food was making her fat. They produce high-quality dog food for your Golden Retriever at an affordable price. Veterinarians recommend IAMS Proactive Health because it uses ingredients like animal protein and antioxidant-rich veggies to nourish your dog and meet their complete health needs. Highly recommend it. Good for maintaining a decent weight too. Gobbles it down! With fish as the main protein, this kibble promotes a gorgeous coat and healthy skin and improves digestive issues. He eats it enthusiastically, and it has really helped him thrive! He is energetic, has a gorgeous coat, and devours his meals! She is a much happier dog. The Save Shredded Puppy Blend includes probiotics to help ease the digestion in growing Golden Retriever puppies with sensitive stomachs. I mix it with wet food, and he loves it. He loves the chunks of shredded chicken! I highly recommend it. This large-breed dry food can help your Golden Retriever maintain a healthy coat and great skin as well as smooth digestion. All of them love this food! Their coats are shiny and soft, and their poops are small! The exclusive formula also increases energy levels! We tried another brand, and it caused all kinds of allergic reactions. We went back to Eagle Pack, and all is right again. Great product! That may be because they have a senior Golden Retriever who is struggling with dental issues or feel that dehydrated food options are healthier. This particular food contains real protein and essential nutrients that can benefit dogs of all ages. Once we got this, she became a food-crazed puppy! This food includes a combination of freeze-dried raw-coated kibble with real pieces of freeze-dried raw meat! This variety has lots of meat sources plus several strains of probiotics. In general, your dog will benefit from puppy food from about 8 weeks of age until they are six months to a year old. Check with your vet to determine the right time to switch from a puppy food to one for adult dogs, as recommendations vary based on the size of your dog. A few days later, you can begin making it a half-and-half blend. Make sure to watch for loose stool from your pup as you transition — if you notice that your Golden is struggling with the new diet, wait for a few days before increasing the blend. When in doubt, check with your vet! Most dog foods come with specific volumes listed on the side. Overfeeding your pet can lead to a variety of health concerns. To determine what food will suit your dog the best, check out 17 of the top dog foods on the market for Golden Retrievers, no matter their age. Check with your vet to determine whether your Golden will need any special dietary considerations. Foods considered toxic to Golden Retrievers are macadamia nuts, chocolate, onions, garlic cloves, grapes, raisins, walnuts, alcohol, and any foods sweetened with xylitol. Try to avoid feeding your Golden food containing any of these ingredients. Grain is an essential component to the diet of Golden Retrievers. The absence of grain has been known to lead to a deficiency in taurine, which can potentially cause heart problems for your golden. Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. They are growing quickly, so while they eat smaller quantities of food than adult dogs, they need to extract far more nutrients like protein, minerals, and vitamins, to sustain their growth and development. Different Dogs, Different Diets Nutritional needs vary from breed to breed. One only needs to look at golden retrievers to know they require a different diet than a Chihuahua! For example, joint and bone problems are much more common in big dogs than in little ones, but choosing the right puppy food can reduce the risk. Large-breed puppy food has reduced amounts of calcium and phosphorus, which helps control the rate of skeletal growth. Also, you may find puppy foods that contain glucosamine and chondroitin to support joint health and mobility. By consuming too much food, your puppy will have elevated levels of the very nutrients that should be limited. Additionally, overweight puppies may develop other health issues such as diabetes and heart disease. Good eating habits developed during puppyhood will lead to a healthy mature dog in the years to come. Nutrition For The Outside One of the most visible components of your dog is its fur. Nutrition plays a vital role in this area. A large percentage of the protein your puppy takes in goes towards maintaining its coat. Omega-6 and Omega-3 fatty acids are also essential for healthy skin and fur. Which Food Do I Choose? There will always be those who buy the cheapest brand on the market. Some will opt for the most expensive, while others will simply go with a brand name they recognize. The key is to find the right food for your particular puppy. One thing you cannot afford to ignore is the nutritional content. Because they are still growing, puppies need more protein than adults. Proteins foster muscle growth and development in puppies and lean muscle maintenance in adults, so the more of it there is in a diet, the better it is for your growing retriever. Fats, too, are important for golden puppies because they provide the energy required for everyday activities. You should be careful, however, not to feed your golden excess calories because this will result in excess weight or obesity. Eventually, your dog will end up battling joint problems. For instance, less expensive dog foods typically have lower-quality ingredients. The contents are often inexpensive, low-grade animal protein sources, like by-products and fillers. Fillers are frequently things like cornmeal, rice flour, or seed hulls. In general, thoroughly review the nutritional content of your chosen diet. Are the ingredients wholesome and natural? Does the diet have controlled calcium and phosphorous levels? Is the calorie and fat content limited to manage growth? Does the label state that the diet is complete and balanced? This can lead to obesity and will certainly cause increased defecation. The latter of these two issues will make house training more difficult than it already is. By contrast, costlier dog foods usually have higher-quality ingredients. The scales will be tipped heavily in favor of high-grade animal protein sources and fillers will be few and far between. Price is not, however, a guarantee of quality. The best dog foods for a golden retriever puppy are made with high-quality natural ingredients and have high levels of protein. Make sure the food is complete and balanced for daily feeding and formulated to meet the nutritional needs of large breed puppies. At this point, golden retriever puppies have likely already been switched to dry puppy food and you should continue feeding your pup the same type of food the breeder used. From the day you bring them home until they are six months old, you should feed your golden retriever puppy three times a day. Ideally, your pup should have breakfast, lunch, and dinner every day. A grain-free diet is the default meal for golden retrievers that are sensitive to grains, but if your dog is healthy, feeding her such a meal boils down to choice. A lot has been said about grain-free diets. Reports and studies have been carried out in recent years trying to establish any connection between it and Canine Dilated Cardiomyopathy DCM. That all starts with choosing the best puppy food for golden retrievers. Avoid low-cost foods that are more filler than substance, and look for better foods that are packed with nutrients to help your puppy grow. In particular, consider trying a large breed formula to meet the specific needs of your golden retriever puppy. Good nutrition is an essential part of any health regimen, and providing high-quality puppy food will lay the foundation for a long, and enjoyable life. You May Also Like. They are famously loving and playful family pets, always eager to jump in the pool or snuggle up with you on the lounge. They are patient and energetic dogs who are easy to train, making them excellent service animals as well as loyal companions. If you are bringing a Goldie into your family, you might also be aware of their reputation as food lovers. Your Goldie might want to eat anything and everything you put in their bowl — and maybe even anything left on an unattended plate. In this Golden Retriever feeding guide, Hypro Premium will take you through everything you need to know when it comes to food options for your pup. The best food for most young puppies is milk. If you are weaning a puppy, you can start to mix in a little dry kibble with their puppy milk to create a paste. You can feed this mix to your puppy up to four times a day, slowly reducing the amount of milk you mix in. Over time, your Goldie puppy will get more comfortable with solid foods, until you no longer need to include any milk in their diet. While chubby little puppies are cute, your Goldie should not build up too much excess fat once you start feeding them solids. Goldies go from a small 4kg puppy at 7 weeks old to an almost 30 kg adult dog in the space of only 10 months. At six months old your puppy will still be growing, but more slowly as they reach most of their body development milestones. This is why appropriate feeding in the first year of their life is vital to the overall health of your Goldie for years to come. Over time this can increase to up to 4 cups a day at 10 months old, though females should usually only need 3 cups a day. The amount you feed your puppy is often dependent on their size and sex. While they may have some growing left to do, it depends on your dog. Some Goldies will continue to experience growth spurts before their second birthday, while others will stay the same size. Large breeds can be at risk of growing too fast, which can make them more vulnerable to skeletal and weight problems when they get older. Golden retrievers are especially prone to hip and elbow dysplasia, which can be avoided through diet control. You should feed your Goldie between 3 — 4 cups of food per day over two meals. Adult dogs and puppies have different nutritional needs. This is important to take into consideration as you are establishing a feeding schedule for a Golden Retriever puppy. Puppies require more calories to support their rapid growth than adult dogs, but they also have much smaller stomachs, which means they get fuller faster. Because of this, puppies can easily overeat, especially Golden Retrievers. You can help your puppy avoid overeating by allowing them a short amount of time to eat, and then removing their bowl. All puppies grow a lot during their first year, but large breed puppies are more likely to suffer from negative health consequences as a result. In order to provide your Golden Retriever puppy with the most appropriate food to support their rapid growth, consider choosing a large breed puppy food. Goldie puppies need lots of protein, fibre, and fatty acids to support the development of their bodies and provide them with energy. These foods also take into account the difference in nutrient digestion between small and large breeds. Too much of these nutrients can cause your large breed puppy to develop skeletal abnormalities. So how much do you feed a Golden Retriever? Your adult Goldie could need anywhere between and 1, calories per day. The amount of food you feed your dog will be determined by a few important factors. The first thing to consider is the sex of your dog. On average, your male Golden Retriever will need slightly more food than a female dog. Senior dogs will usually be less active and so will need less food. Goldies in particular can have a lot of variation in the amount of food they need on a daily basis. No matter how much you feed your dog, it is ideal that you feed your adult Golden Retriever two meals a day at evenly spaced time intervals. Feeding your dog twice, once in the morning and again in the evening, can be useful for establishing a routine and avoiding overfeeding. This routine can also include exercise, and is useful for encouraging healthy behaviour around food and toilet training. Special Considerations Your Golden Retriever could be predisposed to several health conditions that are important to consider when you make decisions about their diet. Firstly, Golden Retrievers are known for their beautiful coats, but their skin can often become infected. Goldies love swimming, but this can cause problems if water irritates their skin. They can also be susceptible to atopic dermatitis, which causes extreme itchiness, resulting in licking and biting behaviours in dogs that can cause even more damage. For dogs prone to skin and coat issues, a fish-based diet can help alleviate symptoms. Fish contains plenty of fatty acids, which support coat and skin health, and rarely triggers any allergic reaction in dogs. Goldies often benefit from healthy grains in their diet, especially as avoiding them can actually leave your dog more vulnerable to nutritional dilated cardiomyopathy, or nutritional DCM. This heart disease is common in Golden Retrievers, and can be triggered by consuming too much grain-free pet food that contains legumes like lentils and peas. You should consider feeding your Golden Retriever foods that are full of grains and proteins like chicken or fish. These are the benefits and drawbacks of the three most popular options — wet food, a raw food diet, and dry food. Wet food can be a great option for dogs that need plenty of protein and fat, like working dogs or dogs with certain health conditions. It also hydrates your dog while they eat, which can be useful for dogs suffering from any illness. For dogs with highly restrictive diets, raw food prepared by you can be a great way to avoid allergens. You can have complete control over a raw diet, which does require a lot more work on your part, but can have great results. For instance, a Golden Retriever with heart issues should eat a low salt diet, which can be easier to achieve if you are preparing their meals from scratch. However, low quality kibbles tend to be made up of a lot of low quality fillers, which can be hard for your pup to digest. Whatever option you choose for your Goldie, make sure it is suitable for large breeds and contains high quality ingredients. This will help prevent degenerative health disorders in the long run. Your Golden Retriever will probably love food, and will probably try to eat anything you put in front of them, which means you need to help them avoid the negative consequences of overeating. Golden retrievers, like other large and active breeds, need plenty of exercise. Not only is this vital to their physical health, but it also ensures they grow up well socialised and mentally stimulated. As your Goldie grows from a puppy to an adult dog, the amount of meals they need a day will reduce as their digestive systems become more developed. Your dog will need two meals a day, once in the evening and once in the morning, from the age of 6 months.

View Our Available Bernedoodle Puppies! Standard Bernedoodles are bigger than Mini Bernedoodles reaching weights of pounds. They average inches in height at the shoulders when fully grown. Our Standard Bernedoodle puppies are all 1st generation-F1 variety puppies. They have purebred Bernese Mountain dogs for moms and the dads are Standard poodles. Their Standard Bernedoodles life expectancy is years old. Blue Diamond Bernedoodles have a loving, easy-going, and calm temperament. Bernedoodles are very loyal and social and love to spend time with their parents. Standard Bernedoodles need regular grooming because of their curly and thick coats. Shedding is very minimal after their first haircut and grooming. This breed is known to be a hypoallergenic choice. Here at Blue Diamond Family Kennels, we specialize in breeding Standard Bernedoodles along with a few other great breeds. We have teamed up with a few other reputable Bernedoodle breeders that breed and raise Bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. On our Standard Bernedoodle puppies page you will see all of our available puppies for sale. View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near Peru Indiana and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups! You will be able to find all their current contact information, as well as a link to their website, so you can see what puppies they currently have available for sale. We provide you with all this information so that you can research each breeder individually and find the one that has your perfect puppy available! If you are considering getting a Bernedoodle, you'll want to check out the incredible book "The Complete Guide to Bernedoodles". It's written in an easy-to-understand way but still has the expert knowledge to help any new Bernedoodle owner successfully raise their new "Dood" from puppy to old-age. It's widely available, so pick up a copy if you see one, here is the link to grab one on Amazon, or you can download the audiobook version here. If you can't find the perfect Bernedoodle puppy in your state, try checking at your local animal shelter or rescue organization. Many Bernedoodles young and old need a loving home and adopting one can be a great way to save a life. We are so happy that you have chosen Local Puppy Breeders to help you find the puppy of your dreams. In addition to visiting us often here, you can check us out on Facebook , Twitter , and Pinterest for more information, pictures, and videos!

Top of Page Iowa Meadow's Labradoodles are wonderfully intelligent family dogs! With low to non-shedding and allergy friendly fur. Their lush silky fleece textured fur ranges from wavy to straight. Australian Labradoodles can range in size from Standard, Medium, or Miniature. Showing little difference in general appearance. Weight can range from 15 to 65 pounds. Check our photos of past litters to get an idea of what color or patterns you like the most. Any dog- owner can relate to this! The more I researched, I realized this breed in particular was perfect for our family and any family around. Not only are these dogs adorable and shed little to none, their wonderful temperaments and health guarantee sold us. We have never looked back and are so in love with our girls. Dogs from this cross typically were bred to each other over future generations, whereby the Australian dogs are also known as 'Multi-generational' Labradoodles. The resulting labradoodles subsequently have been bred to each other continuing the multi-generational tradition. I am also a momma of two girls and my sweet boy who keep me busy with their fun and crazy personalities. Aside from being an Australian Labradoodle Breeder, I also love painting, sewing, and running when I have free time. Iowa Meadow Family Brenna, my oldest is an old wise soul. Her passion and love have always been horses. She makes my heart burst with pride with the devotion she pours into a dream she has and lets nothing stop her. He loves exploring with the dogs, riding his bike, running everywhere and every sport there is. He can't wait to grow up to be a farmer. His best quality is spoiling his momma and telling her she is pretty. Bria is 14 years old and is our sassy spitfire who always keeps us on our toes. She is witty and smart too smart. She loves school which makes life pretty easy for us. Her passion is dancing!! She has been shaking and moving since she came out of the womb. She dances and sings all day long and puts the biggest smile on our faces. She set and reached her goals to join competition dance and continues to improve and impress me. Searching for forever homes.SITE Thank you for visiting our website! We are so excited to be able to provide quality, well bred Australian Labradoodle puppies for you. Please browse through the website and see what we have to offer. You are sure to find some of the cutest puppies you have ever seen! Whether you are looking for a puppy, or just curious about this lovely breed, please feel free to email me with any questions you may have. Many of my previous puppies are placed on the East Coast, and some on the West Coast, so don't let location deter you! I love having families fly in to pick up their puppy, or I can even hand deliver! Click here to visit our puppy page!! Both of these usually make great options for someone looking for a shed free pet, or someone with allergies. They have wonderful personalities and make great family pets, as well as top service and therapy dogs! Most Australian Labradoodles and Bernedoodles from my program are non shedding and allergy friendly. My puppies come in all colors, including chocolate, black, cream, apricot, red, caramel, phantom, tricolor and parti. I have standard, medium and mini Australian Labradoodle and Bernedoodle puppies. Raising healthy, well socialized pups is my top priority. My Australian Labradoodle parent dogs are health tested for hereditary diseases, and I provide a 2 year guarantee on my puppies. So if you are looking for a healthy Australian Labradoodle, you have come to the right place! Australian Labradoodles also called Cobberdogs are, simply put, a multigenerational combination of Labradors, Poodles and Spaniels, though in their distant ancestry there are other breeds that have a very minor influence on the Australian Labradoodle as we know it. They have been bred for many generations to correct coats and set the standard for future generations. Australian Labradoodles are, as a general rule, more predictable in size and coat than the early generations. They are almost always non shedding. That cross can then be bred to another Bernedoodle to make multigen aka "Teddy Bear Bernedoodles", or to a Poodle to make F1b Bernedoodles. Also a Bernedoodle or Bernese Mountain Dog may be bred to an Australian Labradoodle to make Australian Bernedoodles, all of which can help set non shedding traits. While the majority of my puppies are placed in Iowa, Nebraska, Illinois, Minnesota, Wisconsin, I have puppies across the country from coast to coast! I can hand deliver your puppy to nearly anywhere, or you are welcome to fly in to Iowa and pick up your puppy. Please check our available puppies page to see what we have, as well as the upcoming litter page to see what is on the way! Puppies will come up to date on all vaccinations, wormings, and properly socialized. Some litters are spayed and neutered prior to leaving. My adult breeding dogs are raised as family pets in guardian homes nearby, where they are loved and cared for as part of a family. All of my girls are retired at a young age, so that they may enjoy relaxing at their forever home. I do not have a "facility", my program is based in my home. Please feel free to email me any time with questions! We specialize in authentic multi-generational, non-shedding and allergy friendly Australian Labradoodles and Australian Labradoodle Puppies. More information. They are night time crate trained at our bedside and have beginning leash and potty training skills on board before going home at 9 to 10 weeks of age. We serve families and work with breeders all over the world, traveling with your puppy in cabin with me to your local airport if families are too far to drive to us to pick up their puppy! Whether you are in search of non-shedding, allergy friendly Australian Labradoodle Puppies for Sale or wish to learn more about the breed, you have come to the right place. As a multi-generational Australian Labradoodle Breeder since , Heartland Labradoodles breed and raise the finest in Australian Labradoodles and educates new owners about their new life-long companion. About Heartland Labradoodles Raising all of our Australian Labradoodles in the safe and secure environment of our home, Heartland Labradoodles guarantees all of our visitors will truly love our puppies for sale, coming from a small Iowa family farm that is dedicated to raising happy and healthy animals. We are located in Iowa near the Illinois and Wisconsin borders, allowing all of our adorable Australian Labradoodle puppies to have plenty of free space to roam under the care of a true and dedicated Australian Labradoodle and Labradoodle Puppies Breeder. First, it is that we only select, breed and raise multi-generational Australian Labradoodle Dogs For Sale that displays the best of breed characteristics. As a caring and concerned Australian Labradoodle Breeder and retired Registered Nurse that Iowa residents have come to trust, we selectively breed dogs with proven bloodlines and excellent temperaments with extensive health testing, yielding Australian Labradoodles for Sale that Iowa and surrounding area dog enthusiasts will treasure. At Heartland Labradoodles, we know that Iowa residents and families everywhere will want one our Australian Labradoodle Puppies for long-term healthy companionship, as we strive to place all of our dogs in safe and loving homes. Therefore, all of our new puppies are handled on a daily basis to ensure each dog is learning, growing and developing as expected. This way we get to know their personalities and evaluate their individual temperaments. Daily handling of our puppies also allows each dog to become used to voices, touches, and movements that their humans make. By the time they are welcomed into your home, all of our Iowa area and surrounding customers will find our Australian Labradoodles are well-adjusted and will fit right into their new family environments. To make the perfect match, if you see a puppy you may be interested in or are interested in an upcoming litter you wish to inquire about, please take the time to fill out our Puppy Application so we can help you make the perfect puppy-new owner pairing. The Labradoodle, a cross between a Poodle and a Labrador Retriever, is consistently a top doodle breed choice because the breed is family-friendly and hypoallergenic. If you and your family have decided that a Labradoodle puppy is the right fit for your home, you will want to purchase your new family member from a professional and reputable breeder. Other articles you might like: Labradoodle vs. This breeder produces Australian Labradoodles and specializes in multi-generational breeding lines with proven family-friendly puppies. The breeder provides everything a new pup parent could desire: a well-socialized puppy who is up-to-date on vaccinations been wormed bi-weekly and has been examined by a veterinarian. The breeder offers a two-year health guarantee on every puppy, and ships to anywhere within the United States. Puppies can go to their new homes at eight weeks old. Iowa Meadow Labradoodles offers multiple means for you to receive your puppy, including driving the puppy to you in local areas or flying the puppy to your airport. Pup parents are also welcome to pick up their puppy from the breeder as well. Iowa Meadow Labradoodles also offers a Guardian Home program to ensure that all of their puppies will live in a home and never in a kennel setting. Labradoodle Breeder Information.

They are small, affectionate, and easy to train. We have a wide selection of Frenchies for sale, and our knowledgeable staff can help you find the perfect one for your lifestyle. Stop by Citipups today and take home your new best friend! French Bulldogs are relatively easy to train and make good watchdogs. They need moderate exercise and do well in small spaces, making them ideal for city living. French Bulldogs are a popular breed and make great family pets. We also offer financing options to make it easier for you to take home your new furry friend. Stop by our store today and find the perfect French Bulldog for your family! Animal shelters sometimes have French Bulldogs available for adoption, and many breeders offer discounts on puppies that are not show quality. You can also check online classifieds websites like Craigslist or eBay for French Bulldog puppies for sale. If you're looking for a Frenchie, be sure to do your research first. French Bulldogs are a popular breed, but they're not right for everyone. Make sure you know what to expect before you bring one home. Citipups is the best place to find Frenchies for sale in NYC. We have a wide selection of Frenchies for sale, and our knowledgeable staff can help you find the perfect one for your family. Stop by our store today and take home your new best friend. Some of the best places to find French Bulldog puppies for sale are: Citipups. Training French Bulldogs can be stubborn, but on the positive side also people pleasers, and therefore not too difficult to train. Early socialization is key, and we do our best to make that happen. After the dog is in your care enrolling in a puppy class would be beneficial. Don't forget to bring snacks - they are very food motivated. Ethical Frenchie Blog French Bulldog blog for new puppy owners. Tips and tricks on care. Home made treat recipes and more. .Adopters Saying Got a puppy from Ethical Frenchie in .My baby is super happy, healthy and no breed related issues so far. Great quality French Bulldogs for sure! We felt very comfortable working with them as such experienced breeders. It was obvious that they care very much about each puppy that is placed and follow up. We are happy to be part of the Ethical Frenchie Family! We absolutely adore our Sweet Violette! They are professional, kind, accommodating and answered all of my questions confidently without hesitation. We still keep in touch and they check on our little boy constantly. Highly recommend. Olivia Patterson Food. Be caring and responsible. Research the breed and make sure you are ready to commit before exploring French Bulldog puppies for sale. Check out to see what we recommend. Questions about French Bulldog puppies for sale in New York? We have answers. How does French Bulldog puppies for sale in New York work? Many factors contribute to the prices of French Bulldog puppies in NYC including color, coat, and pedigree. Prices typically vary from breeder to breeder, with the most experienced businesses charging higher. Searching for your Frenchie through the Uptown network allows you to find the best puppy in your area that fits your price range. What kind of dog is a French Bulldog? French Bulldogs were first bred in the s and were designed to be smaller versions of the English Bulldog. They were meant to be lapdogs and were well-loved by socialites of the time. To this day, Frenchies have maintained their reputation of being wonderful pets and are adored by small and big families everywhere. The short answer is that French Bulldogs are difficult to breed. Their narrow hips make both getting pregnant and giving birth a challenge. Frenchies are artificially inseminated to get pregnant and later, they have to undergo C-section to deliver the pups. No, you are welcome to search the entire Uptown network for your dream Frenchie! This means you can search all 48 states Alaska and Hawaii excluded to find your best match. Most breeders are knowledgeable in transporting puppies safely across state lines so you can pick up your new family member in a major airport near you. Once approved, the breeders are required to take a legally-binding pledge to uphold high breeding standards and quality canine healthcare. Our mission is to help loving families and breeders who truly love dogs connect so that puppies can go to happy homes. We make your search for a healthy Frenchie puppy easy and simple by making sure that everyone that you meet through our network is an ethical dog breeder. Uptown Puppies would never allow a puppy mill to join our network. Puppy mills only care about making money. These horrible places produce litter after litter of puppies at the lowest cost possible meaning that they eschew proper healthcare for the dogs. French Bulldogs from puppy mills in NYC are often sickly or have developed behavioral issues that are very expensive to treat later on. Uptown Puppies makes finding healthy and happy Frenchies easy and hassle-free.

We were founded to save Houston area German Shepherd Dogs from neglect, abuse, abandonment and euthanization at high kill shelters. We are an excellent alternative for owners who must give up their cherished pets. Our team of tireless volunteers care for our foster dogs as family. We are based on the concept of placing all our dogs into loving foster homes, where they live with and become part of our fosters family until they find a forever home. Every dog in our care receives proper medical care, nourishment and the socialization needed to discover a new life without hunger, sickness, loneliness, or fear. We live to see these German Shepherds blossom as they realize that they are important to someone who genuinely loves having them as family. We are the guardians of the dogs and funds that you trust us to protect. Our entire organization is comprised of dedicated animal loving people who receive no compensation for their countless volunteer hours. We joined this team for the camaraderie and joy we get from working together to help man's best friends in the most important journey of their lives. Let us know! We are always looking for volunteers to help us make our vision a reality. We'll help you find a way to volunteer that best suits you. We're excited to have you join the team! Find out more about volunteering Thank You Whether you help through monetary donations, volunteering your time, or spreading our mission through word-of-mouth, thank you. We couldn't accomplish our goals without the help of supporters like you. Together, we can make a difference. We decided to form Lucky Shepherds from the belief that our society can never have too many animal advocates. Great rescue folks come from every walk of life. Each day gives us examples worldwide of rich and poor alike making personal sacrifices to help protect and shelter the forgotten and unwanted animals sharing our planet. Every political, economic, gender and race recognize equally the need to protect and cherish the joy that saving one dog can bring to each of us. Rescue work is a rare area of our society where we can truly come together and accomplish great works regardless of our worldly views. We will respect, appreciate, learn from and assist our fellow Houston area animal rescues whenever and however possible. There will always be more dogs than we can save as individual rescues. Working together in a collaborative, competent and organized manner benefits the dogs we serve as well as the good natured people who choose to give us their most cherished, non-replaceable resource, the time they volunteer with our organizations. We owe it to our volunteers to work together as efficiently and effectively as humanly possible. Our rescue strives to offer the support structure and organizational planning to ensure that our volunteers can focus on the rewarding side of our rescue without having to recreate the wheel on every mission. We all support each other in the village concept and never forget that it is our responsibility to create as rewarding of a volunteer experience as possible for those willing to give their time to our rescue. We do not have a brick and mortar shelter to house dogs that we take in. All of our dogs live in an approved animal loving foster home. Our foster families welcome each new Lucky Shepherd into their home as a part of their family. The foster families show these incoming dogs the love, nurturing and nutrition that most of them have never known. Our rescue provides the needed medical care, food and ongoing preventative care. All of our dogs are spayed or neutered, microchipped and brought up to date on all of their vaccinations and immunizations before we place them up for adoption. Almost every shelter dog rescued will cost our rescue far more than the adoption fee we collect. We need funding to keep this rescue open. Please donate to us if you can. We operate this rescue with sound business judgement and respect for our donors and the funds they trust us to manage. The money that you give us will be used to support the dogs in our care. Thank you for your interest in our rescue. Please click the web page link for more information on our program. She makes very little noise at all. Inside, there might be the occasional audible sigh when she is trying to communicate something. She is so well-behaved at home. She does not go to the bathroom in the house and thinks that pee pee pads are for resting on. She loves going for rides in the car and also enjoys meal time- she is food motivated! She prefers being with the company of her humans. A good licky mat and calming treats keep her occupied when left alone at home and when she is bored with that, she will just wait by the door until your return. She responds pretty well to a firm tone, She sometimes gets extra excited when she sees other dogs so be mindful when walking her on leash because she will occasionally grumble. I take her on short walks in the morning, evening and sometimes late afternoon and then one longer walk when I can. As far as people go, she is not shy — Champagne is very comfortable going right up to anyone and smelling them. She is excited to go out and she gets playful when you are trying to put her harness on. But she definitely does not play rough. She will make someone a very sweet, gentle companion!! The best way to find free German shepherd puppies in Houston is to use the internet. They are very energetic dogs, very protective and loyal, and easy to train. This makes them great pets for kids and grown-ups alike. But these same qualities make them expensive to adopt. Luckily, you can save a bundle of money on German Shepherd puppies Houston if you know where to look. If you go to the right place on the internet you can find GSD wanted ads and adopt a German Shepherd puppy. You will have to pay a nominal adoption fee but if you are looking for a good honest, good-natured dog, this should not be a problem. Also, when you find a GSD wanted ads like craigslist, you will have an option of contacting the owners directly or posting your ad on craigslist in hopes of catching someone who is looking for a German Shepherd. Houston people looking for GSD puppies can use craigslist as a front door to contact owners of lost or unwanted dogs. Many times, when you are adopting a German Shepherd puppy from a shelter or the local dog pound, they only have German shepherd puppies available and nothing else. When you find these adverts on craigslist, you can contact the owners and make arrangements to bring the puppy home with you. You should keep in mind that the majority of these owners are caring and loving but there are always a few that are not and these are the ones you need to watch out for. Many of these owners may be only willing to exchange the dogs for shelter. There are several reasons why German shepherd dogs fall into this category and shelter or rescue groups should never trade these dogs in for any reason. They should only be traded in if they have no other place to go. It is easy to see why so many people get sad when they think of having to give up their German shepherd puppy in exchange for an AKC registered dog. However, when you look at free German shepherd puppies for sale in Houston, it can be very possible to find them. Just because a person is selling their dog does not mean that they are sick or have a death wish. There are many reasons why owners get fed up with their dogs and want to get rid of them. Some turn to shelters, some to puppy mills. But, most simply give up and choose to give up their German shepherd dogs. One reason why so many owners give up on their German shepherds is that they get sick and need a lot of attention. You have to be able to provide that for your dog if it happens to get sick. This means you need to have a large and healthy dog healthy enough to go on an airplane, a cruise ship, a train, and a boat. Your GSD can only go places that you let it go. If you are unable to keep it in the comfort of its own crate then you will have to have someone come and take it out. On craigslist, there are ads for puppies, adults, and kittens. Not only do you find free German shepherd dogs but you may also find other dogs that you would like to adopt as well. There you will find not only listings of local Houston German Shepherd breeders but you will also meet people who are interested in selling or adopting German Shepherds. On the forum, you can also meet other professional German shepherd breeders and rescue groups. You can ask questions, make deals, and buy dogs at your own pace. Share this:. Proof of service or military ID must be presented at the time of adoption. Pets younger than two years will have normal adoption fees. What is included in the adoption fee? All Pet Adoptions Include: Spay or neuter surgery, dewormer, age-appropriate vaccinations, rabies vaccination, flea prevention, a pet microchip, and a one year registration with the City of Houston. BARC strongly recommends taking your newly adopted pet to a veterinarian within 72 hours for a follow up exam. If the pet becomes sick BARC offers treatment for newly adopted pets within two weeks of the adoption date. Heartworm disease is a serious and potentially fatal disease which affects dogs and other mammals in the United States and other parts of the world. This disease is transmitted by mosquitos. It does not spread from dog to dog so it is safe to adopt a heartworm-positive dog. Heartworm disease can be resolved and most dogs respond well to treatment and can live long and happy lives! If the dog you have chosen to adopt is heartworm positive, we will have you speak to a medical team member prior to completing the adoption. The team member will be able to answer any questions you may have, help you learn more about this disease, and what the treatment will entail. Heartworm disease can be prevented. Due to the high density of the disease and mosquitos in our area, all dogs in your household should be on heartworm prevention. Visit www. How do I adopt a pet in Foster Care? Pets in Foster Care are not physically in the shelter except for on special event days. If you have found a pet from foster care that you would like to adopt or learn more about, Email barcfoster houstontx. Please allow at least 48 hours for the foster caregiver to reach out. Once you have met the pet and confirm you would like to adopt, our foster team will reach out to you on how to start the adoption process. For most pets, the adoption will still have to be done in person at BARC. For more information on adopting a pet from foster care, please contact barcfoster houstontx. Please come to BARC before 1 p.

Key Takeaways Crate training can help you provide a safe and comfortable environment for your Golden Retriever. Avoid rushing the crate training process to ensure your dog feels comfortable and secure. Please do not use the crate as a punishment or leave your dog in it for extended periods. Crate training can be more effective and enjoyable for your dog if you use consistency, positive reinforcement, treats, and toys. Make it more comfortable by providing toys, blankets, and treats. Step 2: Once your pup is at ease, close the door and bring toys and treats inside. Keep an eye on them and let them out if they become distressed. Step 3: Increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed gradually, and step away from the crate while they are distracted. Step 4: Extend the time you are away from the crate. Selecting The Right Crate Size To ensure your Golden Retriever is comfortable and has enough space in their crate, you need to measure them accurately. Golden Retrievers will typically grow to by 20 to 24 inches tall and up to 75 lbs, so you need to make sure to get them the right size crate. Follow these steps to determine the size of your dog: 1. Measure the height of your Golden Retriever: Have your dog stand up straight, Measure from the floor to the top of their shoulder blades. Add around inches to this measurement to determine the minimum height for the crate. Measure the length of your dog from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail. Remember to add 2 to 4 inches to the measurement. Measure their width by having your Golden Retriever standing with their legs slightly apart. Focus your attention on the widest part of their body, which tends to be the chest area. Once again, always add up to 4 inches to the figure. Finally, you want to consider the age of your Golden Retriever. For example, if you have a puppy, keep in mind that they will grow rapidly. You may want to choose a crate that will work for their adult size or opt for an adjustable crate with dividers, so you can gradually increase the space as they grow. Your Golden Retriever puppy will rapidly outgrow a nice crate that is not suited for an adult size. Now that you have all the measurements, you can refer to this Crate Size Calculator to find out the right and best dog crate size for your golden retriever. What Is Crate Training? Crate training is the process of teaching a dog to accept a crate as a familiar and safe location. Here are some of the reasons: House training: Using a crate, you can help your dog learn where and when to go potty. This will make house training more effortless and less stressful for both of you. Safe space: A crate can be a relaxing and safe place for your dog to relax and sleep. It can also help keep your dog out of a mess by preventing them from chewing on inappropriate items or getting into dangerous substances. Traveling: Whether driving or flying across the country, a crate can help keep your dog safe and comfortable. Additionally, many hotels and other accommodations allow crate-trained dogs. Separation anxiety: A crate can provide security and comfort if your dog gets anxious when you leave. Knowing they have a safe place to go can help alleviate their anxiety and make their time away from home less stressful. Overall, crate training is an excellent way to provide your dog with a secure and comfortable environment to call their own. You should start crate training your puppy when you bring them home. However, with patience and positive reinforcement, an older dog can be trained to use a crate. Crate training can be a helpful way to provide a safe and comfortable space for your Golden Retriever to rest and relax, but it should never be used as a form of punishment or confinement. When done responsibly and positively, crate training can be a positive and effective method for you and your Golden Retriever. However, with time, consistency, and positive reinforcement, you can help your dog get used to his crate. Add treats, toys, and blankets to the crate to make it more inviting. Increasing the time your dog spends in the crate gradually is crucial. Remember that crate training should be enjoyable for you and your Golden Retriever. You can quickly make your furry friend feel safe and secure in their crate with a little effort! Benefits Of Crate Training Your Golden Retriever Crate training can be super helpful for your furry friend and offer them a bunch of benefits, such as: Prevents Destructive Behavior: By giving your Golden Retriever a cozy and secure space, crate training can prevent them from chewing, digging, or scratching on household items. Potty Training: Crate training can teach your Golden Retriever to associate the crate with their den, making it easier to hold their bladder and bowels until you take them outside. Prepares Them For Travel: If you need to take your Golden Retriever on a trip, crate training can help them feel comfortable and secure while in transit. Crate training is a great way to help your Golden Retriever feel safe, secure, and comfortable while preventing destructive behavior and keeping them healthy and happy. Adult dogs: They can handle up to 8 hours in a crate, ideally with a break in the middle. Overnight: Many dogs can stay in a crate overnight without issues. Always ensure that any time in the crate is a positive experience for the dog, supplemented by regular breaks, exercise, and playtime outside of the crate. The shift is a delicate balance of patience, supervision, and positive reinforcement. Gradual Exploration Start by letting your dog explore a restricted, safe space under supervision. As comfort grows, extend the time they spend outside the crate. Monitor and Supervise Observe your dog closely during early freedom stages to prevent accidents or mischief. Ensure your home is dog-proofed to minimize potential hazards. Essential Amenities Keep their water bowl accessible. Designate a comfortable resting spot outside the crate. Positive Reinforcement Reward good behavior with treats or praise. This encourages adherence to house rules and reinforces desired behavior. Display patience and affection throughout their transition. With time and consistent guidance, your furry friend will seamlessly integrate into the household, striking a balance between freedom and behavior. Before leaving your dog alone in the crate, be patient and make sure your furry friend is comfortable and safe. For them, the crate should be a positive and safe space, and associating it with negative experiences can cause anxiety and fear. While some time in the crate is acceptable, providing sufficient opportunities for exercise, socialization , and bathroom breaks throughout the day is essential. Maintain a consistent routine and use the same commands each time you place your dog in the crate. Use Toys And Treats: Place toys and treats inside the crate to entice your dog to enter. This will make the crate a more positive and enjoyable environment for them to be in. Ensure your pup gets enough exercise and playtime throughout the day, so your furry companion can relax in the crate when the time comes. Excessive whining, barking, panting, and restlessness are all signs of stress in a Golden Retriever. If your furry friend exhibits these behaviors in the crate, they may be too stressed. Can I use a crate for my adult golden retriever? Yes, as long as it is appropriately sized and they are comfortable in it, you can use a crate for your adult Golden Retriever. Can you leave a puppy crying in the crate? Leaving a crying puppy in the crate is not recommended because it can cause separation anxiety and other behavioral problems. Instead, it is critical to gradually acclimate them to the crate and create a positive and comfortable environment. Should you put a blanket over a dog crate? Yes, draping a blanket over a dog crate can provide a sense of security and darkness, but ensure proper ventilation is maintained. What age is too late to train a puppy? Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. When should I put my dog in a crate? Choose a room that you use often. Your dog may still be able to see what activity is happening around them, feel included, and settle more easily. On the other hand, if your dog has to leave everyone and go off to a remote part of the house, they may learn to associate the crate with a more traumatic and negative experience. Consider putting the crate on the same level of the house that they will be going out to the bathroom during potty training. Where exactly in your house you choose to put the crate may vary. However, most choose out of the way of main traffic and away from any hazards such as a fireplace or an area of direct sunlight. Why use a crate? Aids in bowel and bladder control Helps prevent destructive behavior Teaches your dog to settle Gives them a familiar place when they are tired Conditions relaxed behaviors Helps them feel comfortable if they have to use a crate at daycare or boarding Important training for travel and staying in hotels How long do I leave my puppy in a crate? Crate time is mostly based on their bathroom needs. For puppies, the general rule, when they are awake, is they can stay in their crate for one hour for each month of age. When Emma came home, she was two months old, so we only kept her in the crate for two hours at a time. Allow your puppy to go to the bathroom before going in their crate, which will help ensure all their needs are met so they can rest comfortably. Likewise, take them out to potty immediately when letting them out of their crate. She never barked, whimpered, whined, or tried to execute a grand escape. I used these 5 steps for crate training! Step 1 Give your dog treats around the crate. Do not try and contain them or control where they go. Open and close the gate near them. Allow them time to sniff and explore on their own and offer yummy treats. Step 2 With the door wide open, throw a high-value treat just a few inches inside the crate and let them enter and exit on their own. Repeat a few times. The theme is to avoid picking up and placing your dog in the crate. Allow them time to go in and out as they feel ready. Keep the treats flowing! Step 3 Keep the gate wide open and throw the treats halfway in the crate and then to the back of the crate. Step 4 Throw a treat to the back of the crate. Once all four paws are in, shut the door and open it back up! Allow your dog to come out of the crate and throw a party like they just completed the most impressive trick you have ever seen. Step 5 Gradually increase the time the door is closed. Keep praising them in an upbeat, high-pitch tone, offering their favorite treats. Important Note: Do not reach into their precious space and yank them out. Keep it a positive experience by letting them come out on their own or use treats to lure them out. What about when I need to leave my dog in the crate for a longer period? Hopefully, after completing the five steps above, your dog will be more comfortable going in and out of the crate. Dogs, especially puppies or high-energy dogs, often seek something to do. So if they go in the crate and everyone leaves, you start getting the behaviors of chewing on the bed, chewing on the side of the crate, barking, and scratching at the door to get out. A solution? Give them something to do! How to Let Your Dog Out of the Crate You may have devoted a lot of time and training to getting your dog to go into their crate. Training them on coming out of the crate can be just as valuable. Try this! Wait for calm behavior before opening the door. I do not recommend: Opening the crate when your dog is scratching at the door, barking, or whining. If you let them out now, you are reinforcing that when they bark, the reward is that they get to come out. Reaching into their precious space and yanking them out. You may also be interested in… About the Author Kevin Bubolz is the founder of Golden Retriever Life, an online community with a mission to spread smiles. Food bowl Treats Make sure you have all the above items before you bring your Golden retriever puppy home so that you can get started crate training him right away. Position The Crate Before you set off to collect your puppy, decide where you want his crate to be. Prepare The Crate Fit the crate with a non-slip crate liner, comfy bed, or crate pad, and put a tempting chew toy inside. Put a bowl of water and a packet of treats close by. Cut a small piece of the blanket and put it in the crate. Keep the rest of the blanket for future use. Let the puppy check out the area around the crate. Curious pups might even voluntarily venture inside the crate! Put a few tempting treats inside the crate, close to the door. Golden retrievers are notoriously food-oriented dogs that will most likely be enticed into the crate by those yummy treats. Never force the puppy into the crate. Chat to your pet, offer him more treats, and add a fun toy to the mix to persuade your furry friend to go into the crate. Generally, placing the crate around people will help to encourage your puppy to feel comfortable spending time inside it. Play Crate Games Crate sessions can be made more enjoyable for your puppy by incorporating some crate games. Use treats, cuddly toys, or a KONG toy stuffed with frozen peanut butter or treats to reward your puppy for entering his crate. Crate Feeding Your Golden Retriever Puppy Golden retrievers are very food-oriented, and you can use that to enhance and speed up the crate training process considerably. Allow your puppy to watch you prepare his meal, and then place the food bowl just inside the crate. Once your puppy is confidently going into the crate to get the food, move the food bowl to the back of the crate. Shut The Door By now, your Golden retriever puppy should view the crate as a safe, comfortable, fun place to be. So, try closing the crate door when your puppy is happily tucking into his food. The first time the door is closed, open it again once your pet has finished eating. At each crate training session, leave the door shut for a little longer. Step Back Away From The Crate Assuming that your crate routine is going well, your Golden retriever puppy should now associate the crate with a couple of treats, toys, games, and eating his meals. A common mistake people make is that they try to move too far away from the puppy too soon. Provided that the puppy is calm, you can now move away from the crate. If your puppy starts whinging, turn your back on your pet, and wait a few minutes until the whining stops. After ten seconds of your pet remaining calm, you can turn around and allow him to come out of the crate. Watch your puppy throughout this exercise, and let your pet out of the crate as soon as he shows signs of anxiety. Very young puppies aged up to ten weeks old will need to relieve themselves immediately after a meal. Potty Breaks When you begin your crate training puppy schedule , observe your pet closely for tell-tale signs that he needs to go potty. Generally, puppies will start whining, circling, and sniffing the ground when they need to relieve themselves. When that happens, immediately grab your puppy, and get him to his assigned toilet spot. Eight-week-old puppies typically need to go for a pee around every 30 to 60 minutes. During warm weather or after exercise, when the puppy drinks more, he might need to go more often than that. Once the puppy is older, he will be able to wait for longer between potty stops. What About Bedtime? The safest place for your puppy to spend the night is confined in his crate. Although your pup might experience a bit of separation anxiety from bedtime crating at first, you can help to mitigate that by putting the crate in your bedroom with you. Use a crate cover to create that safe, den-like space that encourages your canine companion to settle down and sleep. Sometimes, giving your Golden retriever puppy a special treat reserved for bedtime can help him understand that his crate is a comfortable space to spend the night. Expect Disturbed Nights! When your puppy is very young, you can expect to be disturbed by his cries for attention during the night. Dogs are clean animals, and they will resist soiling their sleeping area if at all possible. So, set your alarm to wake you up every couple of hours throughout the night so that you can take your puppy outside to relieve himself. Immediately Clean Up Accidents Unfortunately, dealing with potty accidents is all part and parcel of raising and training a new puppy. When that happens, never punish or scold your pup. When accidents happen around your home, use an enzyme cleaner to remove the scent of urine from your floor coverings. If your puppy has an accident in his crate, you must wash all the bedding immediately. Ensure that you have a good supply of spare bedding to grab if you need it, and clean the crate thoroughly to remove any lingering smell of urine. Golden retrievers are especially quick at remembering simple words, and these trainable dogs are typically pretty obedient. So, from the get-go, you need to begin using verbal cues. Pick short and clear words so that your puppy can easily recognize and remember them. Combine your cue words with crate training. Increase The Difficulty As crate training progresses, you can make things more challenging for your puppy. Ask your dog to stay in the crate with the door closed for longer periods, and begin to move out of sight. Just like little kids, puppies will throw tantrums during the first few days of crate training. That behavior is perfectly normal and to be expected, especially when you first close the crate door. Instead, reward calm behavior with treats verbal praise, and let your puppy come out of the crate. So, when a tantrum kicks off, simply turn your back on your furry friend, and wait until he settles down again. Consistency Is Crucial! One of the most common problems people experience when crate training their puppy is not being consistent. Yes, it can be tough when your adorable fluffy bundle is crying and whining inside his crate. Unfortunately, giving in to your fur baby when he complains simply teaches your pet that whining and other bad behavior get him what he wants, which sets your training regimen back. Playtime Is Vital A lively Golden retriever puppy bursting with energy is not likely to settle calmly in his crate. Final Thoughts I hope you enjoyed our guide to crate training a Golden retriever puppy. If you did, please remember to share it. Crates are also useful tools for potty training your puppy and preventing bad behavior, such as chewing and eating harmful substances. Always be consistent and patient when crate training your puppy; use cue words and positive reinforcement to make learning fun for both your pet and you. Did you use a crate to train your Golden retriever puppy? Tell us how you did in the comments box below. Meet our writer Alison Page Alison Page was brought up with dogs and various other pets! For a few years, Alison worked as a Practice Manager in a small animal veterinary clinic. Alison is now a full-time writer, specializing in creating articles on the care and training of dogs, cats, and fish. Leave a Comment. Read the full disclosure here. I know that, and eventually, your dog will know that, too. In this article you will learn exactly how to crate train a puppy or dog, no matter their age or level of previous training. You should read the whole guide before starting, to gain a complete understanding of the process, including the tips and troubleshooting at the end so you can find the speediest success. Why do we do this? We do this so we can use the crate as a place for short-term confinement, to keep our dogs and our belongings safe when we cannot supervise them. Then we can confine them short-term when needed, and they are happy to do so. Yes, they can even enjoy their time in the crate! In contrast: A properly crate trained dog will enjoy time in there happily and stress-free, even relishing the chance to get down to some occupational chew toy time or just to chill out and relax. Dog obedience is key to get this result! Benefits such as: Dramatically speeding up house training. Giving your dog a cozy and comfortable place to call their own where they can sleep and relax, overnight or whenever they wish. Giving you a tool to use for managing problem behaviors or to use for time outs to calm your puppy when needed. Giving you a safe way to transport your dog both by car and air if the need should arise. So they can enjoy trips away and holidays with you. Preparing your puppy for boarding at the vets, a kennel or at home to recover after medical treatment. There are many benefits to using a crate when used correctly, but they can also be misused. And there are also times when you should never crate a dog, regardless of their age or how much or little they can be trusted: Times And Ways That You Should Not Use A Crate There are a small number of dogs that suffer true anxiety and panic when placed in a crate. Under no circumstances should these dogs be crated…ever! The signs you need to look out for are: Any damage to the crate that show signs of attempting to escape. Urinating or defecating in the crate. The crate has moved at all while your dog is inside they must have made some frantic movements for this to happen. Never if your dog has sickness or diarrhea. Never when the weather is extremely hot. Never for any time longer than 5 hours. Not any time your vet prohibits it for medical reasons. Never as a way to punish your dog or for punishment. Use obedience training to correct bad behavior instead. Crating your dog for any of the reasons above is either inhumane, dangerous or purely selfish. Getting Prepared Before you can start crate training, you obviously need a crate. But you also need to make it a comfortable and happy place for your dog. Choosing A Crate Dog sleeping in crate There are many different sizes and style of dog crates available, from tiny inch crates all the way up to inch and bigger! XXL heavy duty dog crates. There are wire dog crates , plastic, fabric and even high quality wooden crates that look just like pieces of furniture. But the most important aspect of the crate you choose is its size: Too small and it would be cruel to expect your dog or puppy to spend time in there Too large and it loses the den like feeling dogs crave, not to mention they can use one end to sleep in while using the other end as a toilet, so it loses its effectiveness. For detailed instructions on measuring your dog for a crate and selecting the right size and type to suit your needs, please see my article: Choosing The Right Size And Type Of Dog Crate 2. Making The Crate Comfortable And Safe Dog In Soft Crate After choosing the right crate, you then have to make it a comfortable, safe and pleasant place for your puppy or dog to love spending time. For a detailed guide on where to place your crate and what you should put in it, you can read my article on: How to make a crate comfortable and safe for your dog. Make sure the crate is out of any direct sunlight, away from heat sources like fireplaces or radiators, and away from any possible cold drafts. Place soft, comfortable bedding inside. Place 2 or more chew toys inside to keep them occupied and develop good chew toy habits. If you have a wire crate, cover it either with a purpose bought crate cover or an old blanket or towel. Following the above 5 tips ensures the crate is a nice comfortable place for your dog. These pose a risk of choking if they happen to snag on anything, so no collars or leashes allowed. Your dog or puppy must be completely naked when crated. You must not rush through and you must make sure you are successful at each stage before you move on to the next, otherwise you could end up causing your dog or puppy to hate the crate by leaving them crated before they are ready. This unfamiliar box can be scary! The ultimate goal is for them to use it voluntarily. So the first task you have on the journey to crate training your puppy or dog is to form in their mind an association between the crate and all the things that they enjoy in life, so they see the crate as a good thing. Fail at this and you could saddle yourself with a dog who hates the crate, refuses to use it and maybe even fears it which can be a very hard thing to undo. So how do you go about achieving this? Technique 1: Magically Appearing Toys And Treats Set up the crate before you bring your dog home or if you have an existing pet, assemble the crate without them seeing so it just magically appears. Now let your dog or puppy into the room. So what should you do? Just act as you normally would, do what you would normally do. Play with your dog or puppy, or sit and watch TV, just act normal. Hopefully they will investigate this new thing in their world, enticed by the treats around and inside it, but also out of plain curiosity. Just draw no attention to the crate at all. Every dog will eventually at least eat the treats around the crate, if not the ones inside. This has the effect of the most prized things in their life being magically conjured up by the crate. Do this for a couple of days or more before you start crate training, and then occasionally for the few weeks after starting so your dog learns to love the crate and what it provides. You should find after a very short time they venture into the crate on their own just to look for some goodies, all without any encouragement from you. NOTE: Any treats you give this way have to be subtracted from their daily food portions or they will be overeating. And I say to do this just for the first few days and then only occasionally because to help house training you want your puppy eating on a schedule to promote defecating on a schedule, not eating at random times and pooping at random times. Feed these meals inside the crate. At first, place their food bowl just inside so they only have to poke their head in to feed. Then after the first couple of times, place it half way into the crate. After a couple of times of this, place it all the way at the back. You might be successful with this right away, or you may have to place it at the front for a few meals over a few days. Some dogs confidence builds quicker than others. Eventually and not before too long you should find your dog expectantly running over to and maybe even into the crate every time they see you holding their food bowl. After a few days of magic appearing treats and your dog eating dinner from the crate, basically once they are used to the crate and associate good things with it, we are ready to start crate training. When you do release your dog you do not want them bolting out and bumping into you, particularly important if you have a large dog such as a Golden Retriever that can easily bowl you over on their way past! You want them to reliably leave the crate when you ask. You can only achieve these three things if your dog understands that they must stay inside until told they can leave, or must leave when they hear the cue word. Choose whatever words you like, just be consistent. You do not want to spook your dog at this stage. Sit close to the crate armed with some high value treats, show them to your dog and then throw one inside the crate. Move away so they can easily exit and just stand patiently and quietly waiting for them to do so. Repeat this 8 to 10 times then take a couple of minutes break. Then do another set of 8 to .Yes, for real. Repeat this whole exercise a few times over the course of a day or two until your dog is comfortably, happily and reliably going in the crate when you throw in a treat. Training your dog to do this is a huge step! Make sure they really are confidently going in to get the treat before moving to the next step. And remember to use your cue words every single time so they quickly learn them. Step 3: No Treat For Free! The next step is to ask your puppy or dog into the crate before you treat them. Make them work for the treat instead of using it to lure them into the crate. To start, do 2 or 3 exercises of throwing a treat in and using the cue word as they go in to get it. When they do, give them a treat or two while you praise them profusely. Then use the cue word to leave and praise them when they do. Repeat this 8 to 10 times, take a couple of minutes break, then do another 8 to 10 before finishing up for this session. Repeat this step many times over the course of a day or two until you are certain your puppy or dog truly understands the commands and is happy to both go into and leave the crate on cue before you move to step 4. Now, many of you will have a dog at this stage that goes in, gets the treat or their toys and cannot wait to get back out again. But some will already be sitting, laying and sleeping in the crate of their own accord. Regardless though, what you want to achieve is your puppy or dog to sit and lie in the crate on cue, which is different to doing it of their own accord. Begin this just a couple of days after getting them home because they need to understand the cues outside of the crate before you can hope to have them follow the commands inside it. Other things you should have been doing before this step are: feeding your dog or puppy their main meals inside the crate occasionally leaving stuffed Kong toys in the crate this gets them used to spending time in there, usually in a sitting or laying position this will have made things easier Now, run through 2 or 3 repetitions of steps 2 and 3 before you start step 4, always remembering to use your chosen cues! Next, when your dog is inside the crate: Simply cue them to sit, praise and reward them profusely when they do. Then ask for a down and do the same. Then cue them to leave the crate before repeating the exercise. Try this 8 to 10 times before a few minutes break, then repeat for 8 to 10 times more. Repeat this whole step a few times over a day or more, but as you repeat the exercises, ask them to stay sitting or lying down for longer periods before you release them. And you should vary the duration to keep them guessing what it takes to earn a treat. Try just 1 second, then 5, then 2, then 10, then 3 and so on. Try to stretch the time out over a few practice sessions. Remember to be gentle and that your tone of voice throughout training matters. As always: Start with 2 or 3 repetitions of the easier steps first, going through steps 3 and 4 before trying to close the door. When ready: Cue your dog to go into the crate, praise and treat them, then ask for a sit, praise and treat and then slowly close the door. You ask for a sit because this position is automatically a more calm and relaxed position than standing. Continue to praise your dog and give a couple of treats through the closed door for remaining calm and sitting. Then open the door, and cue them to leave the crate. If your dog looks fearful or panicked when you close the door some will! Start by closing the door just part way for a few repetitions, then half way for a few, then most the way before finally closing it fully. This may take one training session or a few over days. Are you ready to move on? Once your dog is happy to sit a few seconds with the door closed, begin to latch it. Praise and treat for calm, then release the latch and open the door. For a training session, do 8 to 10 reps, take a few minutes break and then repeat. During each set, vary the time they have to stay calm and sitting, 3 seconds, then 10, then 4, then 15 and so on. You should aim to extend the time they stay calm and sitting with the door closed to a full minute before moving on to the next step. Again, this could take an afternoon, or it might take a few days. Go at your dogs pace and never force things. The base is serving as a staging facility for hurricane relief operations. Air Force photo by Master Sgt. Jack Braden Once your puppy or dog can sit calmly in the crate with the door closed for a full minute, the next step is to start moving away with the ultimate aim of being able to leave the room. First of all, perform a few reps of steps 4 and 5 as a warm up, remembering to always use your cues. Next, follow these steps: Cue your dog into the crate, close the door, latch it, praise and reward them and take a couple of steps backwards away from the crate but still facing it. Then return, praise and reward. Open the door and cue your dog to come out. Do this exercise 8 to 10 times, then take a few minutes break and repeat. For each repetition, mix things up: Try walking away a different distance in a different direction, but remaining in the room. First 2 steps backwards and pause 5 seconds before returning, then 4 steps to the side and a 15 second pause and so on. Work up to walking right to the exit or the wall and pausing for a full minute. Next, you will want to amp things up even more: Perform this exercise while you actively walk around the room, looking busy doing other things, but return to praise and treat your dog often. Tidy some magazines, rustle through a drawer, just look busy doing other things a few times in the house. Then, go even farther: Perform this exercise but back yourself up to the exit of the room and leave for just a couple of seconds before returning and heading to the crate to treat and praise. Do this a few times. The time this takes and the success you have will vary from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Always stop at 10 repetitions max, and never more than two batches in quick succession followed by a big break. Otherwise your dog will get bored and the training is less effective. Now you just need to start increasing the time they are happy to spend time alone. Before you begin, something that goes a long way toward helping is to make sure your puppy or dog is well exercised before asking them into the crate. Why is that? A tired dog will be far more willing to relax and chill out for a length of time, compared to one who is full of energy and keen to play or wanting attention! After exercising them, the first step is to increase the time they are happy to spend in the crate while you are still nearby. To achieve this: Crate feeding: Feed your dog in the crate, or give them a stuffed Kong toy or good tasting bone chew toy. Hang out nearby: Ask your dog into the crate, give them their food or the toy, then close the door and take a seat nearby to read a book or a magazine. Engage occasionally: Every now and then, give them a further treat and praise, then go back to your book or magazine. Gradual build: Try to work up to a good half hour of quiet and calm in the crate while you read and they chew. Ignore them: After a couple of times like this, crate your dog or puppy with their meal or a stuffed toy and move around the room busying yourself, paying little attention to your dog. You want them to be eating their meal or chewing a toy in the locked crate while you do other things. Leave the room: After a couple of repetitions of this, repeat the exercise but move freely in and out of the room a few times, as well as occasionally sitting nearby. Disappear: Start by leaving the room for only 5 or 10 minutes, extending the time over a few sessions until you eventually achieve a full hour of alone time. As always, how long this takes will vary wildly from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Go at their pace. It helps massively to succeed in this step if you only ever give your puppy or dog the bone chew toys or stuffed Kongs when in the crate and never outside of it. It builds excitement and anticipation, something to look forward to in the crate. Step 8: The Grand Finale! Wait for them to start chewing and then leave and come back into the room a couple of times. If they stay calm and pre-occupied with their chewing, simply leave the house. Then, do this: Go outside and walk to the bottom of your garden, just hang there for a few minutes and then go back inside and walk around your home for a couple of minutes before going to the crate and your dog. You want them to think that this is nothing, a complete non-event. And certainly do not go straight to them when you come back in. Remember: this even means nothing! From now on, practice alone time in the crate when you leave the house at least a couple of times every day, for varying lengths of time. Never make a fuss of any sort before you go, never make a fuss on your return. Over a few sessions, build up the time you are out of the house with your dog in the crate to a couple of hours as long as they are old enough to hold their bladder this long. You can now use the crate to keep your dog and your belongings safe when you cannot supervise them, and use the crate as a sleeping place for your dog at night. Always leave a few toys in there with your dog, and continue to repeat the exercise where you crate them with a stuffed Kong or chew toy if natural opportunities do not arise, just to keep them happy with the situation. If you have a dog that: Some puppies will take regular naps in the crate before you even start crate training. They might go on to show little interest or care about the door being closed. They might be super confident and happy right away with a little alone time. You might be able to crate train such a dog in just a few short days. Dogs like this can take many weeks to crate train: Some puppies may show fear of the crate and not want to go anywhere near it. Once carefully trained to go in, they might feel panic and fear when you close the door. You have to go at your own dogs pace because if you rush them you can instill dislike or even fear of the crate in their minds, and then it will take far longer than it ever should have. But many or most dogs will take to it quicker, and most puppies certainly will as they have no preconceived ideas, habits or emotions to overcome. When going through the steps above, if your dog excels at any stage you can quickly move to the next step. If they do not, if they show any fear or uncertainty, spend more time at a particular step until they are comfortable before moving on. Your dog will show you when they are ready to progress and you should go at their speed, however fast or slow that may be. They need to be able to: move around exercise their muscles enjoy some mental stimulation If they are regularly crated longer than this, behavioral problems will be the result, as well as the fact they have little in the way of a fulfilling life. In my experience this is a bit optimistic, all dogs are different and when a puppy is very young, this is certainly too long. This is with the exception of puppies from 8 to 12 weeks old who will need letting out once during the night. But after 12 weeks, they can last the whole night through. Crating your dog when you work full-time means two lots of 4 or more hours crated and this is a long time, so quality time, exercise and stimulation before and after crating is essential. Tips For Better Crate Training What follows are a few useful tips to keep in mind when crate training your puppy or dog. They will make the process easier and faster, while making sure your dog is comfortable and happy throughout the process: Always make sure you take your puppy or dog to their bathroom spot before you crate them for any length time. They will be uncomfortable and noisily complain with a full bladder…but rightfully so! Also take them the moment you let them out as they will usually be ready to go. Make sure the crate door is always open and your dog always has access to it so they can use it as and when they please. Most dogs will use it as a place to rest and this is a good thing. Always leave chew toys in the crate for your dog so there is something for them to do while crated. This will minimize boredom and teaches good habits of chewing on the right things. Continue to feed them their meals in the crate. Also, reserve special treats like bones and stuffed Kong toys for the crate only and never outside of it, so they really look forward to spending time there. Exercise your dog or puppy well before crating them for any length of time. A tired dog is one who is happy to relax and chill out. If you find your puppy nodding off and completely unable to stay awake this happens a lot! This will speed up their acceptance of the crate considerably if they snooze and find themselves waking up in there often. The worst thing you can do is force them in because chances are it will heighten their fear and make things even worse. Instead, break the task down into easier steps for your dog by employing some of the following tasks: Practice asking your dog to step in and out of cardboard boxes. First trimming the sides down to look like a small tray, then using further boxes and increasing height of the sides. Place bedding in the box and practice asking them to lay down. Some dogs may not like the roof aspect of the crate. Ask your dog to step underneath, even sit under there yourself and read a book while enticing them over for treats. Start with a big gap and a wide area covered, then lessen the gap between furniture in later training sessions to make it feel more crate like over time. If you have a plastic travel style crate airline crate then remove the top half and practice having them step in and out of the bottom half only. Start asking your dog to step into the bottom tray only. Then put on 2 of the walls for a couple of training sessions. Then three walls for a few sessions. Then the roof until finally the crate is fully assembled. Then cover the back third of the pens roof with a sheet and do the same. Then cover a half. Then remove a part of the pen to make the area smaller and ask them in to play with them. Whichever of the above you try, make sure an exit is wide open and easy for your dog to use for escape so they will feel less anxious. And take things very slowly, making sure they are visibly comfortable at any stage before taking a next step. After a few days maybe more of slowly getting them used to stepping into things that progressively get more and more crate like, you should be able to begin crate training. This type of reinforcement will not help the cries. Yes, you getting angry and telling your dog off will actually make the issue worse. This will train them to think that if they cry long and loud enough, you will eventually come and let them out. Not a good idea. Wait for 5 seconds silence before you approach, then give them a treat. You ruined it! Wait for at least 5 seconds of silence before you return, then treat them. Enough repetitions of this will teach them that silence gets rewarded and noise makes you go away. Why did they whine? You might want to go back a step or two in your crate training though. Make sure they are comfortably happy and silent in the crate, for a reasonable length of time with the door latched and you present, before you ever try to leave them alone. Young puppies cannot hold it through the night without having a potty break. But how do you know if the whines are because they need to eliminate or just crying for attention? For a puppy 8 to 9 weeks old, you will need to set an alarm to take them to potty twice during the night, at 2. For a puppy 9 to 12 weeks old, set an alarm to take them to potty half way through the night, 3. Make sure you do not feed them anything in the 3 hours before bed, take away water at least 2 hours before bed, and take them to their toilet spot to empty themselves as the very last thing you do before you go to bed. When you take them to potty, make sure you do so in silence. No playing, no words, no attention, otherwise they will learn that night-time is a time for play and attention. You obviously do not want this. They are very different things. But if when you leave your dog alone crated they show these symptoms: anxiety.

Mini Labradoodle vs Mini Sheepadoodle Comparison Two dog breeds, one purpose: to make your life a joy-filled journey powered by strong bonds, friendship, and unconditional love. Meet the Mini Labradoodle and the Mini Sheepadoodle. Two very adorable and friendly dogs with upbeat personalities, the Mini Labradoodle and Mini Sheepadoodle make the perfect addition to any lucky family. Your way of life, hobbies, and work schedule are all important factors that can help determine which of the two dog breeds is a good fit for your lifestyle.Welcoming a new puppy into your home is an exciting time filled with joy, cuddles, and a few inevitable challenges. One of the most common questions new puppy owners ask is, "When can puppies go outside? They are fun, easygoing, and gentle. Mini Labradoodles enjoy canine games like chase, fetch, and Frisbee, and thrive on cuddles and love. Energetic, friendly, and full of life, the Mini Labradoodles make wonderful jogging and hiking companions. They are known to enjoy a good swim, a long stroll, and are very fond of adventures. The Mini Labradoodle puppies are happy, energetic, and bright bundles of joy. They are loving and eager to please, love to play and cuddle, and are excellent training students. A cross between Labrador Retrievers and Mini or Toy Poodles, the Mini Labradoodle may take after one parent breed or the other in appearance or they may have their own unique look with an added bonus of a hypoallergenic coat. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Pittsburgh Pennsylvania and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted. Welcome to the Pennsylvania state page on TrustedPuppies. Situated in the Northeastern and Mid-Atlantic regions of the United States, Pennsylvania offers a rich history, diverse landscape, and plenty of dog-friendly activities, making it a fantastic place for Mini Labradoodle enthusiasts. PA sits 6th among the other states, with a hefty dog population of around 2. Our site features reputable PA breeders who specialize in raising healthy and happy puppies. Our breeders are committed to raising the highest quality puppies. They provide their puppies with all the necessary vaccinations and veterinary checkups to ensure they are in the best of health before they go to their forever homes. They also provide ongoing support and advice to ensure a smooth transition for both you and your new furry friend. Pennsylvania is a paradise for dog lovers, featuring an array of dog-friendly restaurants, parks, and events to enjoy with your canine companion. At TrustedPuppies. Most of our trusted Mini Labradoodle breeders offer safe and affordable flight delivery, with a devoted flight nanny accompanying your new pup throughout their journey, ensuring a secure and comfortable trip as they make their way to their new home in the Keystone State. In addition to flight delivery, most breeders also offer affordable vehicle delivery utilizing specialized pet delivery services. This option guarantees your Mini Labradoodle puppy is safely transported to your doorstep by a professional who understands the unique needs of pet travel. Begin your search for the perfect Mini Labradoodle puppy today on TrustedPuppies. Puppy Breeds The Labradoodle is a hybrid breed of dog derived from breeding a Labrador Retriever and a poodle. At their best, Labradoodles are intelligent, friendly, and affectionate. They come in three sizes: miniature weighing 15 to 30 pounds , medium 30 to 45 pounds , and standard 45 to more than pounds. Because they are a crossbreed their traits are not fixed, so there is no guarantee that the Labradoodle puppy you purchase will fall into the desired weight range. Labradoodles have a moderate activity level. Larger Labradoodles may be more active than their smaller kin. They need a good walk or active playtime each day, and, if youre interested and the dog's overall health is good enough , they are athletic enough to participate in such dog sports as agility, flyball, obedience, and rally. They can also be excellent therapy dogs. Both of the breeds used to create Labradoodles tend to be smart and learn quickly. If you begin socialization and training early and use positive reinforcement techniques such as praise, play, and food rewards, you will be rewarded with a wonderful companion. Their large size gives them the sturdiness to withstand roughhousing with little children. Their endearing temperament makes them the perfect addition to any family. They are also a very hearty dog, being a hybrid. They can live for years on average. Poodles have a reputation for being hypoallergenic, meaning that they can be tolerated by people who have allergies to dogs. Because they have the Poodle in their heritage, Labradoodles are sometimes promoted as being hypoallergenic. But allergies are not caused by a particular dog coat type but by dander. Some people with mild allergies react less severely to particular dogs like the Labradoodle. Do you think a Labradoodle puppy might be right for you and your family? Check out our available puppies page to see our precious Labradoodles for sale! Name Required.

What Causes Older Dogs to Cough? A pug can start coughing for a number of reasons, ranging from kennel cough to a congenital condition that produces a distinctive cough. Most of these are treatable. If your pug starts coughing, listen to him, then take him to the vet. Collapsed Trachea Tracheal collapse or narrowing is a congenital condition commonly seen in small dogs such as the pug. The distinctive coughing sound a pug makes if he has this condition is usually compared to the honking sound that geese make, or to a child with croup. You need to take him to a vet, who will examine his windpipe using various diagnostic tools such as a fluoroscope, X-ray and endoscope. The trachea consists of rings of cartilage. In affected pugs the cartilage is weaker than usual, and over time normal breathing flattens the rings, causing narrowing or collapse. Standard treatments for the condition are cough suppressants, bronchodilators, anti-inflammatory drugs, steroids, and sometimes tranquilizers to keep your pug from overexcitement that can bring on a coughing fit. If your vet can't manage the condition with medication, he might recommend surgery. Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease A significant number of pugs are affected by chronic obstructive pulmonary disease. Because of their shortened airways, this condition is harder on pugs than on humans. At its most basic, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease is an obstructed airway, with coughing, wheezing and gurgling sounds as typical symptoms. Environmental factors such as smoke, dust and chemical irritants are external causes of the disease. An elongated soft palate is the most common cause of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease in a pug, but a swollen larynx, enlarged tonsils, narrow nostrils and asthma can also cause it. A pug with asthma usually has a chronic cough. Coughing and gagging up phlegm are often signs of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease, combined with louder than normal breathing. See your vet if you notice any of these signs. Your vet will treat your pug with a bronchodilator and anti-allergy drugs, treatments also used for humans. Kennel Cough Kennel cough is an infectious disease that your pug can catch from other dogs. As its name suggests, boarding kennels, grooming salons, and places where dogs hang out in groups are often sources of the infection. Typical signs are a high-pitched, honking cough if your pug's vocal chords are swollen, or a dry, hacking cough. Other symptoms are fever, nose and eye discharge and breathing problems. Pugs are prone to upper respiratory tract diseases like this, so prevention and treatment are important. Vaccination is the main form of prevention. Treatment usually consists of cough suppressants or expectorants, but if the condition persists, the vet usually prescribes antibiotics. Because kennel cough is so infectious, it is important to seek your vet's diagnosis as soon as possible, particularly if you have other dogs, or if your pug regularly socializes with neighbors' dogs. Fluid builds up in the lungs over time, and your dog coughs or gags in unsuccessful attempts to bring up the fluid. This is most noticeable after exercise. The coughing increases if the condition is not diagnosed. If your vet diagnoses a cough related to a heart condition, he will prescribe medication to improve the pug's heart function. More Articles. Shop All Cat Food Key Takeaways: Some of the most common reasons why your dog is coughing are heart disease, pneumonia, kennel cough, tracheal collapse, heartworm disease and canine influenza. Keep track of any other symptoms, such as coughing blood, mucus, foam, etc. If you've noticed your dog coughing and your curious about all the different reasons why dogs cough, know that many different conditions, ranging in severity from mild to life-threatening, can lead your dog to cough. Fortunately, though, most conditions that cause a dog cough are easy to treat. Here are five common conditions that cause dogs to cough: 1. Heart Disease One of the most common reasons for a dog cough is a disease of the heart valves or heart muscle; this prevents a dog's heart from pumping blood efficiently. Coughing results when parts of the heart enlarge and compress the major airways in the lungs, or when fluid backs up into the lungs. You can usually tell if a dog cough is caused by heart disease if their cough is soft and continuous. If your dog is coughing due to heart disease, their cough will likely be worse at night or when they're resting on their side and may be accompanied by a decrease in energy and stamina. If your dog's veterinarian diagnoses that the cough is the result of heart disease, they may prescribe a heart medications. Pneumonia Pneumonia is another common condition that pet parents often worry about when they notice their dog coughing. Dog pneumonia inflammation of the lungs can be the result of bacteria, a preexisting viral infection such as canine influenza or distemper , swallowing difficulties, regurgitation or certain metabolic disorders. With pneumonia, a dog cough sounds moist and soft. If your dog has pneumonia, they'll likely have a high fever, poor appetite and low energy. They'll need veterinary treatment, lots of fluids and rest, and they might even need hospitalization to recover. Kennel Cough Kennel cough — another one of the most common causes of coughing in dogs — is a catchall term for tracheobronchitis, inflammation and infection of the windpipe and the main lower airways. While kennel cough is more common among younger dogs, dogs of any age can be affected. Dogs in group settings — whether at obedience training, doggy day care or boarding — are at higher risk of contracting the infection. So, if you find yourself noticing that your dog is coughing after they've been at day care, there's a chance they could have a case of kennel cough. Dogs with kennel cough have a hacking, dry and raspy cough that sounds worse if they pull while being walked on their leash. Kennel cough can even lead to retching and subsequent vomiting. Kennel cough may resolves on its own, but antibiotics and cough suppressants are often prescribed to reduce coughing and the likelihood of secondary problems, such as pneumonia. Dogs with kennel cough are very contagious to other dogs. Kennel cough is a form of Bordetella bronchiseptica, for which there is a vaccine that can help protect your dog from getting kennel cough in the future. Talk to your vet about vaccinating your dog to reduce the chance of getting kennel cough. Tracheal Collapse Tracheal collapse is a condition that causes the trachea, or windpipe, to become soft and floppy; it affects small and toy breeds most often, including Pomeranians , Chihuahuas , pugs and shih tzus. The official name for the condition is tracheal chondromalacia. Dogs with tracheal collapse have a dry, hacking and spasmodic cough. They cough repeatedly and have a hard time calming down. Their coughing will worsen if they pull while they're on a leash. If your dog's trachea has collapsed completely, their cough can sound asthmatic. The cough is also worse in obese dogs, dogs who are hot or excited and dogs exposed to irritants or allergens in the air. Treatment for tracheal collapse includes weight loss as well as medicines including cough suppressants, bronchodilators, steroids and antibiotics. In severe cases, your dog's vet may recommend surgery. Heartworm Disease Depending on where you live, heartworm disease may be a more or less likely cause of coughing in dogs. While heartworms are more prevalent in warmer areas, such as Florida and California, the risk of heartworm disease exists anywhere there are mosquitoes transmitting the disease. Dogs with heartworm disease may have a cough or they may exhibit no signs at all — it depends on the dog's size, how many worms they're harboring and the dog's overall health. If your dog does show signs of the disease, they may have a mild, persistent cough; low energy; weight loss and reduced appetite. A severe heartworm infestation could result in signs of heart failure, including a swollen abdomen from fluid buildup. Canine Influenza Dogs, like humans, are subject to contracting the flu, known in dogs as canine influenza. The cough exists as the result of the respiratory infection that can last anywhere from ten to thirty days. Your dog will likely be prescribed medicine as a course of treatment. If you have other pets in the home, it is best to quarantine your sick dog to their own area of the home, as canine influenza is contagious between animals — but lucky for you, it cannot be transmitted to or from humans. Many causes of coughing in dogs are completely treatable, but they need to be properly diagnosed in order to be treated. When you bring your pup in to see their vet, be sure to describe their cough in detail and to tell the vet about any other signs your dog has had such as coughing blood, mucus, white foam, etc. With the right care from your veterinarian, your dog will be back to howling and barking in no time. Contributor Bio Dr. Sarah Wooten Dr. Wooten divides her professional time between small animal practice in Greeley, Colorado, public speaking on associate issues, leadership, and client communication, and writing. How to prevent coughs in dogs? Why do dogs cough? As your pet explores the world with their nose or mouth, they encounter germs, dirt, tiny bugs, bits of grass, and many other particles. If some of this material is breathed in, your dog may cough to expel it. No big deal, right? And if the coughing is accompanied by changes in breathing, it could indicate something more serious. Set goals. Compare with dogs like yours. Monitor sleep. Detect issues and keep them healthy. Shop Dog Trackers Is it a cough or a gag? Coughing and gagging may sound similar when they happen, but they are not quite the same. A cough is caused when your dog forces air out of the mouth and throat. Gagging is more akin to vomiting, but nothing comes out except some phlegm or mucus. Gagging can lead to coughing and coughing can lead to gagging, but either can happen on its own. Gagging is often the result of your dog gulping down large chunks of dry food or swallowing something distasteful. Gagging is a natural process to rid the body of the swallowed or partially-swallowed item. What are the various types of dog coughs? Your pooch feels the same way! Take action sooner rather than later to help your pup recover from the cough and head off a more serious illness. This will help your vet decide the best way to care for the cough and make your pooch more comfortable. Dry, hacking, cough that is deep-sounding Gagging and high-pitched cough Wet and phlegmy Deep and honking, like a goose Each type of cough indicates a different problem. Take a video of your dog coughing and show it to your vet. This will help the vet decide if the cough signals an emergency or could be contagious, like kennel cough or canine influenza. What are the symptoms of kennel cough? Kennel cough typically causes your dog to produce a deep, dry, honking cough. Kennel cough is caused by several types of bacteria or viruses, but it produces only mild illness. Kennel cough is highly contagious and is often spread in group settings such as obedience classes, boarding facilities, or dog parks. Your veterinarian can prescribe medication to alleviate the cough. Be sure to keep your pup away from other dogs until they are no longer contagious. The Bordetella vaccine can protect your dog from getting kennel cough. It can be administered as an injection or nasal spray. Talk to your vet about this vaccine, especially if your dog is boarded frequently. Look around for clues to determine if your dog recently chewed on or ate something that could have lodged in the throat. If you suspect a foreign object is lodged in the throat, seek veterinary care as this could block the airway or cause infection. Just keep a close eye on your pup after an incident like this. Environmental allergens Pollen, smoke, fungi, and other inhaled allergens can cause coughing in your dog. If your dog has allergies, consider keeping them indoors during peak allergy season, or ask your veterinarian for medication to alleviate the symptoms. Toy dog breeds and obese dogs have an increased risk of developing a collapsed trachea. Tracheal collapse occurs when the cartilage surrounding the airway weakens. Treatment for a collapsing trachea includes weight loss and medication to reduce coughing. Pneumonia A wet, phlegmy cough may indicate a buildup of fluid in the lungs. If the fluid becomes infected, then your dog will have pneumonia. One way to know if your dog might have pneumonia is to watch their breathing. If breathing is labored even when the dog is resting and not coughing, that may be a sign of pneumonia. You may notice the cough becoming more prevalent when your dog is lying down. Heart disease is more likely to occur in older dogs. Canine influenza Coughing, along with sneezing, runny nose, runny eyes, fever, and lethargy can signal canine influenza dog flu. Ask your vet about supportive care for your pup, such as fluids and other medications to reduce fevers. If your dog has coughed daily for more than two months, they may have canine chronic bronchitis. This chronic condition is unlikely to resolve, so treatment focuses on addressing the symptoms. Other reasons for coughing in dogs include heartworm disease — which should not be a problem if your pup is on regular heartworm medication. In a reverse sneezing episode, a dog actually sucks air in rather than forcing it out. If reverse sneezing becomes a daily occurrence, contact your vet to rule out any other conditions. Laryngeal paralysis is another condition that may seem cough-related. In laryngeal paralysis, the muscles that surround the voice box larynx become weak. Your pup may pant loudly and their voice may change. Always see your veterinarian when your dog experiences changes in breathing. Lung cancer can cause persistent coughing in dogs. But lung cancer is not a common reason that dogs experience coughing. What to do if my dog is coughing Coughing is uncomfortable for your dog and can be tough to listen to for days on end. Plus, it can be a sign of a serious or contagious illness. Do your dog and yourself a favor and seek treatment as soon as possible. And if your dog has a life-threatening underlying cause, beginning treatment early can improve the outcome for your dog. Persistent coughing can irritate the throat. Add a spoonful of honey to a bowl of water, up to three times per day. Close the bathroom door so the room gets extra steamy. Allowing your dog to plenty of rest is important for recovery form any illness. Their body just needs time to recover. When should I bring my dog to a vet? Most cases of coughing in dogs are completely treatable. By Sandra C. While dog gagging can be a benign behavior, there are things you need to know and be aware of so that you know when it is time to visit your veterinarian. It sounds sort of like they are trying to vomit while also coughing. There is a difference between coughing, vomiting and dog gagging, and it is important to be able to distinguish between them. If you can take a video of the behavior, it will help your veterinarian to distinguish what is happening. When a dog vomits , it is usually pretty obvious because food or stomach contents wind up on the floor. Dog gagging usually happens in conjunction with a cough. When a dog is gagging, they may widely open their mouth and make a retching sort of sound. With gagging, there will be no expulsion of stomach contents, like with vomiting. Believe it or not, it does matter. For a veterinarian, the order in which these two actions happen can help them determine which types of diseases they need to be considering. What Causes Dog Gagging? Gagging is caused by inflammation in the area of the larynx. There are a number of things that can cause a dog to gag, and it will often require a veterinary exam to sort the problems out. When a dog coughs first and then gags, we are commonly thinking about problems which cause bronchitis and lower respiratory disease. When a dog gags first and then coughs, we are considering things along the lines of dysfunction of the larynx. Two very common things that can cause gagging in dogs are infectious problems and laryngeal paralysis. Kennel cough , which is a type of respiratory infection, is a common cause of dog gagging, which results in a harsh, goose-like cough, sometimes followed by a gag. There are other infectious diseases that can also cause gagging, and a more severe disease—pneumonia—can sometimes cause gagging in dogs, as well. Laryngeal paralysis can occur often in older Labrador Retrievers. In this condition, the larynx no longer closes properly, allowing some food and fluid to access the airway. Another feature of this condition is a very loud, harsh panting. Laryngeal paralysis often starts out subtly and worsens with time. If your pet is bright, alert, breathing normally, eating and drinking as expected, and appears to be feeling fine, you should monitor the problem for hours. If the gagging lasts longer than this, it may well be something more significant than just some minor reaction from swallowing wrong. If any other symptoms are present—your dog appears worried or distressed, is having ANY trouble breathing, has an increase in noise during breathing, or is not feeling well in any fashion—I would recommend an exam sooner rather than later. Whenever the respiratory system is not quite right, we tend to take the condition seriously as veterinarians. What happens at the veterinary appointment will vary quite a lot depending on the specifics of what your dog is displaying. In all cases, a complete physical examination is indicated. Sometimes, the doctor may be able to make a tentative diagnosis based on this exam alone. Other times, some additional tests may be required. The most common initial tests include blood work looking specifically for signs of infection as well as radiographs of the neck and lungs. Particularly, if the veterinarian is concerned that laryngeal paralysis is a possibility—or if the dog may have swallowed some foreign material such as a ball that is lodged—sedation may also be required for a complete exam of the larynx. The good news is that most cases of dog gagging are relatively straightforward to treat. Even the causes that are more significant, such as from pneumonia or laryngeal paralysis, do have treatments available to either cure or significantly reduce the gagging and make your dog more comfortable. By: Dr. Sandra Mitchell. Prevention Back to Top If your dog suddenly starts to make gagging noises or cough, it can be alarming. Sometimes, it's just a single cough or gag, while other times it is chronic problem. If the symptoms are ignored and there is an underlying disease causing them, things can progress to a potentially life-threatening situation. Find out what causes a dog to cough or gag and what you can do to help prevent unnecessary issues from developing. Coughing vs. Gagging A cough and a gag are similar but not the same. A cough is a hacking noise that occurs when your dog is forcing air out of the throat and mouth. A gag is a retch that is similar to vomiting but nothing comes up and out, except maybe a little phlegm or mucous. Sometimes a dog will both cough and then gag at the end of the cough, but either can happen on its own. Causes of Coughing or Gagging in Dogs Airborne debris, food, diseases, and more can result in your dog developing a cough or gag. Knowing the cause of your dog's symptoms may help you determine whether or not they are serious. Food Sometimes a dog will eat so quickly that the food will go down the trachea instead of the esophagus. This can cause a dog to cough or gag in an attempt to get the food out of the wrong tube. In this case, you could encourage your dog to eat more slowly and place food in a bowl that is at an appropriate height for the size of your dog. Slow feeders and elevated dog bowls can help. It's caused by inflammation and irritation of the trachea or lungs and until it is treated, the coughing and gagging will continue. Pneumonia , kennel cough , influenza , tracheitis, lungworm infestations, fungal infections, distemper , and other diseases that cause respiratory tract issues will require veterinary attention. Heart Disease Certain types of heart disease can cause a dog to cough. Fluid accumulation in the lungs can lead to coughing and difficulty breathing. Heartworm disease can interfere with heart function and cause inflammation within the lungs. With these conditions, a dog is likely to cough and gag in an attempt to clear the airway, but that won't help. Only veterinary attention can get your dog some relief. Nausea If a dog is nauseated or experiencing gastrointestinal reflux, gagging may occur. Dogs with chronic reflux can develop a chronic cough. Tracheal Collapse Some dogs, especially small breeds, are prone to tracheal collapse. This occurs when the cartilage holding the trachea open weakens. Coughing may result due to a decrease in the opening of the airway. Treatment for Coughing or Gagging Your veterinarian will perform a full physical examination and obtain a patient history to see what may be causing your dog to cough or gag. X-rays, bloodwork, echocardiograms, and other tests may be needed to make a diagnosis depending on what your vet suspects the problem is. Depending on the reason for your dog's coughing or gagging, the treatment plan will vary. If your dog is diagnosed with a disease or illness that requires short-term treatment, medications including antibiotics, steroids, and cough suppressants are likely to be prescribed. Dogs diagnosed with heart disease may be prescribed life-long medications to manage the disease and its symptoms. If the problem is so severe that your dog is not well-oxygenated, oxygen therapy may be needed, too. How to Prevent Coughing or Gagging in Your Dog While you can't prevent all things that can cause your dog to cough or gag, there are still several things you can do. Keep your dog current on its vaccinations , on heartworm prevention , and away from dogs that are not fully vaccinated or sick. Additionally, keep up with regular check-ups with your veterinarian to help with prevention and early diagnosis. This will enable your vet to start treatment as soon as possible. More from The Spruce Pets. Why is My Pug Coughing? Most of the time, this is nothing to worry about. This could be a sign of an underlying health condition, allergy, obstruction, or illness. For example, a cough that sounds wet or mucousy can be a sign of fluid build-up in the lungs due to infection. If your Pug has a lung infection they will need prescribed antibiotics. Coughing is a natural bodily function that helps protect the respiratory system. Coughing is a reflex process. That could be anything from mucus or dust to a larger obstruction caused by a foreign object or blockage. Pugs and other dogs may be prone to coughing because they spend so much time nuzzling and exploring the world around them. So, coughing is perfectly natural. Not all coughs are the same and, depending on what is causing your Pug to cough, each type will present with different signs and symptoms. Hacking cough A hacking cough is a dry cough accompanied by a raspy, hacking sound. Your Pug might sound like they are trying to remove something from their throat, airway, or mouth. Hacking coughs should be taken seriously as they could indicate that your Pug has developed kennel cough, or that your Pug has an obstruction that needs to be removed. Honking cough A honking cough is a dry cough accompanied by a honking noise a bit like a goose honk. Again, honking coughs should be taken seriously as they could indicate kennel cough, infection, or even a tracheal collapse. Ensure that you visit your veterinarian immediately if you notice that your Pug develops this kind of cough. Wet cough A wet cough will sound moist and usually indicates the presence of excess phlegm. This could be a sign of dog flu or canine pneumonia. You may notice a gurgling sound and your Pug may try to cough up phlegm. Pugs may let out high-pitched coughs if they have a sore throat, blockage, or upper airway irritation. It is really important that you bring this up with your vet as soon as possible. Common causes of Pug coughing Again, much like for humans there is no one, single cause of Pug coughing. Coughing is an accompanying symptom of many conditions, ailments, and allergies. Heart disease Coughing can sometimes be a warning sign of a heart condition. Other symptoms that might indicate heart disease include: breathlessness, panting, lethargy, weight loss , fainting, exercise intolerance, and heart murmur. Heart disease is a very serious condition that must be treated by a veterinary professional. Bacterial lung infections will need to be treated with a course of antibiotics that can only be prescribed by your veterinarian. Kennel cough Kennel cough is a well known phenomenon in boarding kennels, doggie daycares, salons, or any place where dogs are together on mass. This infectious disease often causes fever, eye discharge , abnormal breathing , and a very dry cough. Kennel cough can be experienced by any dog breed. However, Pugs are particularly prone to upper respiratory diseases such as this. If you suspect that your Pug has kennel cough it is essential that you contact your vet as soon as possible. Kennel cough is extremely infectious and you will need to keep your infected Pug away from other dogs until they have recovered. Canine distemper is characterized by a persistent cough caused by a viral infection. If not treated, canine distemper can be fatal, so if in doubt visit your vet immediately. Top-tip: Canine distemper can be easily prevented by ensuring your Pug gets their annual vaccinations. Obstruction Coughing might also be caused by an obstruction. If your Pug swallows something that then gets stuck in their airway then they will cough to try and get it back up. This is very common especially amongst puppies because, as we all know, puppies like to chew…. This video will help you take the right steps if your Pug is choking. Tracheal Collapse Coughing is sometimes an indicator of tracheal collapse especially with small breed dogs like Pugs. A tracheal collapse occurs when the rings of cartilage that surround the trachea become weakened and the trachea collapses in on itself as a result. This is a progressive condition that develops over time and gradually restricts the airway. Pneumonia Coughing is a common symptom of canine pneumonia. Pneumonia occurs when the lungs and airways become inflamed due to bacterial infection, canine influenza, or kennel cough amongst other causes. Chronic obstructive pulmonary disease Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease COPD , otherwise known as chronic bronchitis, is quite common amongst pugs due to their short airways. COPD is caused when an airway becomes obstructed. Typical symptoms include coughing, wheezing, and gurgling. Other possible causes include:.

The dog sits in front of you Guard The dog is more alert and looks for hazards Bite Dog bites an object that you want A list of GSD obedience commands for advanced training. Now that you have a list of training and obedience commands for your German Shepherd, you need to understand how to use them. Issuing your commands is essential to successful obedience training. Instead, you must first show them and then tell them exactly what you want. Make your command clear, concise, and consistent. There are four parts to command good performance. This alerts them that the words you say following their name are for them, unlike the hundreds of millions of other words you say in a day talking to others. A lure to perform the behavior. Naming the command you want. After multiple times of luring your GSD into position correctly, give the action a name. The reward for performing the behavior. When your dog performs the behavior correctly, praise them and offer them their tasty reward the lure for a job well done. Now you need to know if your dog understands the command you give. How many times do they need to get the command right? Aim for the correct response from your dog ten times in a row. If they correctly perform the action that matches the command you gave 10 times in a row, then: move on to increase your distance away from them when you give the command the time they hold the command and practice with different distractions vary your training environment. If you touch your dog while giving a command, your dog may pay more attention to your action of placing them into the position, rather than the command word. So, the command then loses its value for your dog, and your training becomes much harder. Come is the most important dog command to teach your German Shepherd. Let your dog run around in your house on the long lead. You can throw one of their favorite toys or a treat to get them moving away from you. You may also gently tug on the lead. Get down on their level by crouching and offer them a lure treat to understand what you want and entice them to come back to you. Once they come to you, give them their reward. Practice letting them wander, then using the word come to get them to you for their treat at least 10 times. But for now, start indoors in a quiet area. Another life-saving essential command is No. Most owners use no while their dog is performing an unwanted behavior. When your dog looks at you, offer them a more suitable behavior. Or, have them come to you for a tasty treat and put away the shoe. This is generally enough to get your dog to stop performing the action you want, or at least to get their attention so you can offer them a better behavior option. Your dog will quickly catch on as they learn what you expect from them. The stop command takes a bit of skill and timing since it requires your dog to quit moving. While it does take time and patience, it is essential you train your GSD to this basic command. Have them on a long lead to start for safety. Walk away to a distance of approximately 20 to 30 feet as long as your long lead is. Then, turn and face your dog without making eye contact. If you make eye contact, they may run to you thinking you want them to come. When you are ready, call your dog to you. As soon as they move, take a few steps towards them saying stop in a stern voice with your hand up with a flat palm facing them. This command works best when taught with both verbal and hand signals. The simple fact you are coming towards them makes them hesitate, which is a normal reaction. Always reward them with a tasty treat when they stop by going to them. Once they learn to stop on command, start extending the distance until they stop and stand, sit, or get into the down position at any distance on your verbal command. You will eventually train what command you want after the stop, such as a down or stay. But the most important thing to remember is that your dog stops. You always want to have a reliable stop in case of an emergency think about if your dog were to chase a squirrel or rabbit into a busy road. And, if your dog ever begins to pick up or sniff an unsavory item, then you can also use the German Shepherd leave it command for lesser emergencies. Sit is an easy enough command that even your puppy can learn it! Teaching sit is essential in creating the training relationship, as it is an excellent opening to a training session or a closer after a troublesome session when you want to end on a high note. Instead, move your hand with a tasty reward over your dog and lean over them a bit. Most dogs want to keep eye contact with the reward, which causes their head to go up and their rear end to drop to the ground. This is called luring your dog into position. Move your dog with the lure into the sit position. Once they get the action right while you say the command 10 times, start telling them to sit while you walk away at different distances. If you plan on having guests over, down is invaluable to prevent jumping or overexcited behavior. Do this by holding a treat on the ground a foot or two in front of them. Use the lure to get them moving into the down position. You may have to let them smell and see the lure in your hand. Once they go into position properly, say the word down and give them the treat. Repeat the down position 10 times correctly. Try having your dog perform down from both the sit position and from a standing position. It sometimes helps to take the treat and move under the nose and head, toward their bodies, in which case your dog should fold their legs under them to smell the treat. Work on the down command in different areas of your home and in varying distracting, but safe, environments so your dog learns to follow your command more reliably. Teaching the stay command takes plenty of patience and practice. The command is still in the beginner training category list because it is an essential skill. If your dog stands up to follow you—as they probably will—tell your dog to sit again. Lure them with a treat back into position. Then, once they sit, say stay. You can increase the steps you take back from your dog before you return to them for their reward. Lengthen this distance slowly as your dog learns impulse control and the stay command. Ultimately, your dog will stop following you, sit, and stay in its position. They will need more training for longer distances. Stay in safe areas to avoid your dog running off to chase a car, person, or animal. You could go out and spend a few hundred dollars on lots of tools to help you train your German Shepherd. Basic obedience equipment includes: a short five or six-foot heavy-duty leash with a padded handle a long at least feet lightweight lead a safety collar a collar that snaps apart if your dog gets hung up on an object and saves their life! Try this reflective leash with a padded handle to comfort your hands when you have a strong pulling German Shepherd. Buy a long leash of at least 20 feet for outdoor training. A long leash helps you maintain control while still allowing your dog to enjoy a playful romp and roll. This is the long leash many training professionals prefer because the clips withstand pulling and hold up well to consistent, daily use. Your final necessity is a breakaway collar. But, you can also use pea-sized amounts of fresh-cooked chicken or small bits of cheese. Pay attention to your dog during training, and you can tell which treats are their favorite by their willingness to perform the training. Buy a treat that is healthy and low in calories, preferably pick one from this list of the Best Healthy Treats for Your German Shepherd. Treats are how you pay your dog for their work. They also help build a positive bond between training and you, so that your dog is happy to engage in their training sessions. Using a training command list for your German Shepherd allows you to identify the commands that you need to work on. Place the list where you will see it often daily as a reminder to continue and work through your training. This allows you to understand where your training is and to begin the next, more advanced steps with your dog. Start with the beginning obedience items and keep adding a new command, preferably at a consistent pace. Once your GSD masters the new command, keep building on their training by adding in the next command. Keep your training sessions short, around 5 minutes long. And practice multiple times per day. Some handlers and trainers use a different version to those on the German Shepherd training commands list to train their dogs, but you can use whatever command works best for you and your GSD. Just remember to stay consistent with your command word. With a very young GSD, train for short periods. But train frequently throughout the day. Think of training in short bursts. Around 6 months of age, your GSD should know the basic commands—sit, stay, down, no, and come. Use this guide on the perfect exercise routine for your German Shepherd. German Shepherd Training Tips Stay patient and confident your dog will learn. Go easy and take your time. Make sessions short and simple—only 3 minutes long for a puppy and 5 to 10 minutes for an adult. Train in different areas where your dog is always safe. Start indoors, and work your way to outdoors that are more distracting. Remember, your most important tool while training is your good attitude. And a sick or over-excited dog is less responsive to any goodwill that comes their way. Try again the following day when you both are in better states of mind. A positive way to phase out rewards once your dog has mastered a distinct command is to present the reward as part of the training of a new command. Once your dog has mastered down, instead of providing a treat after giving them the down, offer them a lesser treat, verbal praise, or petting instead of their usual expected reward. Reintroducing Treats with a New Command Start training new commands with tasty treats again. Show them you still have a treat ready by letting them see and sniff the hand with the treat. But now they have to work for it a little more than usual by learning a new command. Once you have their attention, start teaching the new command. You can also use a popular toy instead of treats when training. Be sure you use a safe and durable toy, which will last through a strong chewer, like one of these durable toys for powerful German Shepherd chewers. A clicker is a small, hand-held tool that makes a slight clicking noise when you press a button. You can use your voice and see wonderful results using positive, reward-based training also known as lure and reward training. Give your dog the command from different distances. Practice your training in different positions and in different places of your home. Try stepping farther away every time you work through a command during your training session. Increasing the distance your dog performs the command is challenging because they want to stay close to you naturally. With time and repetition, you will train your German Shepherd to perform the command at almost any distance from you with success. Once your dog masters a command in a quiet environment, try training them in a more distracting environment. This could mean that you turn on the TV or radio, have your family in the room, or move near a window they like to look out. Ultimately, your dog learns that you still expect them to obey you, no matter the location or environment. Sometimes it will take time to adjust to the idea that a local park is a place for learning too. Keep working with them and stay positive. As you practice, your dog learns to tune out the distractions and pay more attention to your training and you. Remember to practice having your dog perform the command from different distances from you so they learn the command is the same, no matter your distance or location from them. And always, always, always… Make sure your dog is safe! Keep them on a short or long leash when outdoors! And stay aware of your surroundings, including busy roads, bicyclists, children playing, and other obstacles to avoid. Do you have problems getting your German Shepherd to listen to your commands? If your German Shepherd is not listening to commands, then you need to go back to their basic training commands. Your dog might also be feeling unwell, stressed, or need more exercise or their meals. You also need to train your German Shepherd not only to the basic commands but also in various locations and distances. You might need to take a day off your usual training every now and then to add some excitement to their lives. Go back to the last command they performed right and begin from there. Or, just play a game instead where you can incorporate your training. Try a few games from this list of fun German Shepherd Games! Using the German Shepherd Training Commands the Right Way The cornerstone for good training is consistency, positive rewards, timing, a favorable attitude, and patience. Use this German Shepherd commands list to improve the relationship between you and your dog. Begin with the easiest commands on the list for your German Shepherd and work your way through to the more difficult commands. Your GSD wants to please and is one of the smartest dogs. Having and using a list of German Shepherd training commands takes the stress off confusing the basic commands and gives you a goal to aim for. Understanding how to use the list to create a well-behaved dog truly makes you a boss level trainer! The valuable book gives you the tools for helping turn your playful pup into a happy, healthy, well-adjusted adult. The expert authors cover all the questions that a new owner generally has, as well answering questions you might not know to ask. Brain training is fun and teaches obedience skills! Enjoy a perfect performance using kind and scientifically-based training in a private group with thousands of others using a brain training program to train their dogs! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. Knowing the best commands to teach your German Shepherd is essential to living happily with them. Commands for German Shepherds establish a two-way street of communication. First, there are basic commands, and then I jump right into more advanced commands and tricks. After getting a German Shepherd, new owners often complain about a lack of communication with their dogs. This makes teaching your GSD easier since you have an essential foundation built. You can also teach different commands for German Shepherds for fun, fitness, impulse control, and even bonding. Basic Commands for German Shepherds Your goal for training commands for your German Shepherd is to master the basics first. German Shepherd Dog training commands generally begin with the basics. Teaching your dog good manners and how to behave in public helps you to handle a large breed dog with confidence. These basic commands for your GSD are useful in your daily life and are a great place to start. A marker word is any word or sound such as a clicker used to mark when your German Shepherd does something correctly. The most common marker words are yes and good. But first, you must teach the meaning of this word to your dog so they understand. You must say the marker word or click the clicker followed immediately by a treat. Repeat your word, along with giving them a treat, until your dog becomes excited about the word. Name Recognition The foundation of German Shepherd training is teaching your dog their name. If you have a multi-dog home, then training their name will let your dogs know who needs to obey. Sit The sit command is part of basic training. It helps them settle down, stay still, and keeps them from jumping on guests. Sit is a great behavior to have on cue to teach your German Shepherd to ask for something they want, prevent them from darting out open doors, and keep them in the car for you to leash them before releasing them. Down The next command is down. Down teaches your German Shepherd to relax, settle for longer periods, and to rest until their next command. Having your German Shepherd in a relaxed down position provides you with better control. But, the most important command will be your following stay command. Stay Stay, while a basic command, is actually a more complex behavior. This is because in order for you to teach your German Shepherd to stay they need to resist distractions. This training is called proofing a behavior. Come Teaching your puppy the come command is a life-saving skill. The come command, also called the recall, is an essential life-saving skill you must teach your German Shepherd. Mastering this command not only gives your dog more freedom but also allows you to take your dog more places. When your dog understands the come command gives you more confidence because you know your dog will return when called. Speak Most owners find that teaching their German Shepherd to speak is much easier than training them to be quiet. The German Shepherd is bred as a watchful and alert companion and is a notorious barker. Generally, when your German Shepherd barks you can add in a command, such as speak, to capture their barking. Quiet As a herding breed, one of the jobs of the German Shepherd was to bark at predators or hazards. This is engrained in the breed. Early on, teach your German Shepherd to be quiet to help counteract their barking. They bark a lot by nature to ward off danger from their home and keep their family safe. Need help with your dog barking at strangers? Often thought of as one of the most useful German Shepherd training commands, the cue wait means to respect the boundary. The wait is also valuable when you need to have your dog pause in certain areas or rooms of your house. It only means your dog must hesitate until you give your permission to cross over the boundary where the wait due was delivered. Watch me or look at me is another great command to teach your German Shepherd. German Shepherds that learn this training are less likely to become distracted in public settings, learn patience while waiting for rewards, and develop better self-control skills. With everything else going on, watch me can get your dog in a better frame of mind. Plus, it allows you to give your dog another command to follow. There are also other ways to get your German Shepherd to listen to you , without a command. While out on walks you might need your dog to ignore old food in the dirt or a neighborhood cat or dog that has her attention. Telling her to leave it keeps her away from those distracting objects for a moment. Drop It Has your dog ever grabbed your shoes and ran through the house with them? If so, then you must teach your German Shepherd the drop it command. Train your dog to drop it by using the reward method to make the training positive. Repeating this training with different items of value, and always keeping your reward worth more than what she has to drop, will give you better results. Stand Why would you ever want to teach your German Shepherd the stand command? Stand also gets your dog up from another position like down or from a trick like a rollover. Especially useful for puppies, the settle cue lets your dog know they need to behave calmly. Heel The purpose of the heel command is to teach your German Shepherd to walk on a loose leash beside you. Have your GSD on your left side, which is the traditional heel side. Hold a treat in your left hand and guide your dog along the seam of your left leg while walking a few steps. Give her the treat for following along on a loose leash. For most herding breeds loose lead walking is a difficult behavior since dogs naturally walk faster than us. Training this command will help you to enjoy safer and more relaxed walks. You can also start training your German Shepherd to walk on a leash right now. You can introduce your dog to new commands to keep up their training skills or purely for entertainment. With the right set of commands, you can give your German Shepherd a job around the house to keep them mentally stimulated and out of trouble. Here are some training commands to give you something fun to teach your German Shepherd and keep their intelligent minds engaged. Maybe you want them to continue walking and pass another dog. Up Training your German Shepherd to get up on something is a great trick. Plus, if your dog learns to jump up when you ask, then they can join you on the couch for movie night, jump onto a stool for easier grooming time, or even increase their activity on walks. Off The off command tells your dog they need to place all four paws back on the ground. This means if they have paws on you, on someone else, or on the furniture they should get all of their paws onto the floor. Instead, teach them the off command so you can guide them with your voice. Shake An easy and cute trick to teach your German Shepherd is shake, also known as give paw. Teaching your dog to give you their paw even helps to desensitize your German Shepherd to having her paws touched. To spice things up with this trick, teach your dog to shake with each paw by naming them different commands. Little by little, your dog will slowly start to lean over to reach the reward. Some German Shepherds are more reserved and will need time to go into the rollover. Not all German Shepherds understand how to return a toy or ball to you once thrown. So, training your German Shepherd to fetch or bring will help them learn how to carry their toys to you for a game. Plus, fetch is a great way to exercise your dog to keep them fit and happy. Use take it to give them permission to have their food, treat, or toy. Go Potty If you want to train your dog to use the bathroom on cue then a potty command is useful. Go potty is a good cue to pair when your puppy does their business outside. After pairing the cue enough times, your German Shepherd learns that go potty is their command for using the toilet. Place instructs your dog to go to a designated spot, sometimes a platform or mat, and wait for the next cue. This is a great behavior to have in your repertoire. Imagine being able to send your German Shepherd to their place when someone knocks on your door. This trick takes more patience than rollover because your dog must stay very still to make the trick convincing. Pair this trick with a few others and you have a complete show for your next party. When your dog goes to bed she will lay down and remain there quietly. Unlike with her place command where she waits for your next words. You can also give your dog a treat to keep her busy and make her go to bed cue rewarding. Try a Kong toy for your German Shepherd that she chews to help relax her while in her bed. You can get your dog to stay in their bed longer by offering them the best bed for your German Shepherd. But, in the beginning, you might notice your new German Shepherd is hesitant to put her paws on you. Spin Spin is a beginner trick for German Shepherds. Use a bit of tasty food to lure your dog into a turn. Keep repeating this action, then pair the word spin with the behavior. For another challenge, teach your German Shepherd to spin the other way. Spin also helps your dog stay limber by stretching her neck and back muscles. Use the word free to tell your German Shepherd that she can go about her own way. For example, use free when releasing your dog from a wait at your back door into an enclosed yard. Before you give the free cue, always make sure the surroundings are safe and free from dangers. Instead, try the break command to teach your German Shepherd to stay near you for her next cue. Then, move on to the next cue so your dog keeps learning and improving. Training Command. A dog that is well trained is a pleasure to live with and also safer in your home and while out in the community. Along with helping your dog be more manageable, and teaching them how to behave in all environments, dog training is also fun and provides hours of mental stimulation for intelligent dogs, like German shepherds. How many commands you teach your German shepherd is up to you but most of them can easily learn all 29 on this list: 1. Sit Teaching your dog to sit on command is useful throughout their life. Teaching your dog to sit is also very helpful when trying to calm an excited dog or when meeting new people. Come Teaching the come or recall command is a very basic, potentially lifesaving, must do. All dogs need to learn that the word come means that they stop what they are doing and come back to you. Before taking your dog off leash, or into areas with lots of distractions, they should master the come command. Wait Wait is a useful command to teach because it teaches your dog to pause and wait for directions and get permission from you. Use wait before walking out the door, getting in or out of the car, greeting guests, at mealtimes, the list is endless. Stay Teaching a dog to stay is one of the most important commands they can learn. This command should be reinforced throughout their lifetime, in case you ever need it in an emergency. Dogs should also learn to be released from all commands and this will help reinforce that when practicing their training. Break or release This command is used to release your dog from their sit, stay, down, or other commands. Down Teaching the down or belly on the floor command is another go-to and should be started in puppyhood. This command is very useful in many situations but one important place is at the vet, during an exam or nail trimming. The down command is also great for getting control over an overly stimulated dog. Stand Use this command when you want your dog to stand up on all four paws from a down or a sit. This command is helpful when you want your dog to hold still to be handled, groomed, or for an exam at the vet. Off The off command is used to teach a dog to remove their paws off something, such as a person or furniture. No Just like kids, dogs need to be taught that no means no for their own safety and your sanity. No is used to stop them from taking unwanted action. Leave it Similar and often interchanged with no, the leave it command is used to teach your dog to leave something alone. Taught in conjunction with the leave it command, the command helps teach impulse control and also teaches them to look to you for permission to take something. Drop it Next comes the drop it command. By teaching your dog to drop something, you will help protect their health and your valuables. Heel Teaching your dog to heel, or properly walk on a leash, is a vital command for all German shepherds to learn. They need to learn how to walk anywhere politely. Here Here means come and stand in front of me or at my side. This is a great obedience command to use to begin an off-leash heel, when putting on a leash, or to get your dog next to you. Take care of business You can use whatever command you choose for going outside to take care of business go pee and pooh , just be consistent with the word you choose. Place Teaching your dog to place, or go to a designated place in the house such as their bed, is very important and a lifesaver when you need them out of the way so that you can easily get them out of the kitchen, away from a mess, to calm them down, or remove them from a situation. It is also useful in teaching them how you want them to get physically get into the car. Back up Teaching your dog to back up is fun and also helpful when you need them to move out of the way by backing up. Stop Teaching your dog to stop teaches them to immediately stop what they are doing and stand still. This is a great command to improve impulse control but is also useful in many situations, including emergencies and when playing games. Kennel up If your dog is crate trained, use this command to send them to their crate. Roll over Roll over can be used for more than a cute trick. It can be useful when grooming, looking your dog over, or at the vet. Go eat By giving your dog permission to go eat, you help prevent them from going after their food before the bowl is on the floor, and they also learn to wait for permission to eat so it helps improve impulse control. It communicates exactly what you expect from your dog and is especially handy when traveling or staying at new places. Go out Teaching the opposite, go out from a room is also great for setting expectations and communicating exactly what you want your dog to do. Quiet Teaching the quiet command teaches your dog that they need to be quiet and stop barking. This command is great for many reasons but especially when traveling or when they are barking and you need them to hush. Speak The opposite of quiet, teaching your dog to speak actually reinforces the quiet command because the dog learns both. Teaching your dog to bark on command is fun and also can be useful, for example if you want to warn someone that a dog is nearby. It is a means to establish communication cues that enable you to understand each other and develop a bond. Additionally, trained GSDs are more confident and have lower tendencies to develop behavioral issues simply because they know how to interact with and respond to their environment. Read on to learn some of the most useful German Shepherd training commands you can teach your dog. German Shepherd Training Commands There are an infinite number of commands you can teach any dog, especially one with the work drive of a German Shepherd. Some of them are useful in everyday situations while others are simply for fun, entertainment, and bonding. These 13 commands will enable you to live harmoniously with your GSD and enjoy the best traits of the breed: 1 Sit Teaching your dog to sit is one of the most useful commands because it helps them stay still and settle down. Eventually, it can also be a way for them to greet you or ask for something. While in this position, they are less likely to run off or pull on a leash. It is one of the most useful commands to keep your dog out of trouble and out of the way. Mastering this command enables you to give your dog some independence. Calling on their name prompts them to become more alert and ready to obey. This is especially useful when you have multiple dogs at home. Additionally, the speak and quiet commands are useful to control needless barking and reduce excessive noise. Getting them to look at you on command is especially useful in public settings where there can be many distractions. This keeps them more focused and work-oriented as compared to loose-leash walking. This is essential to keep them away from potentially hazardous finds. This is useful to keep them out of the way when doing chores or entertaining guests. Additionally, it helps them settle down even when things are going on around them. These might be purely for entertainment or to give your dog a job to do. Either way, these 12 training commands will give you something fun to do while providing excellent mental stimulation: 1 Shake Hands Shake or shake hands is a fun way to say hello to strangers or introduce your friends to your dog. But beyond a greeting, this is a good way to teach them to offer their paw for inspection or grooming. It is also a fun part of your repertoire when you show off to guests. Nevertheless, you can teach your dog to hug for times when your mood needs a little pick-me-up. This is also especially useful for dogs providing emotional support. The more dramatic, the better. Giving them their own bin and teaching them to tidy up their own toys is definitely a doable chore that makes them feel useful around the house. This can also be used to prompt them to search, sniff, and track. It also gives your dog more ways to use their working abilities around the house. This is typical among dogs that participate in Schutzhund but not limited to that purpose. Generally, teaching your dog commands in another language lowers the risk of them following commands from other people. This is especially important for personal protection and service dogs. German is a good option not only because it has been used for decades to teach GSDs but also because the nature of the language itself sounds terse and forceful, which is effective for commanding dogs. Here are some of the most common German Commands for German Shepherds, along with the pronunciation of each: English Commands.