bulldogs puppy for sale

Typically a Black Poodle is bred with a Black Lab, but since black is a dominant color, sometimes another color of poodle red, chocolate, etc , can still have black puppies. Black Labradoodles have become wildly popular for their sweet, lovable nature, familiar black color, low-shedding and hypoallergenic coat characteristics. Labradoodles come in other colors, such as chocolate, yellow, cream, parti-colors, and occasionally red, but some people love the sweet nature of a Black Labradoodle. Many first generation Black Labradoodles f1 will shed. We recommend getting an F1b Black Labradoodle if you're worried about shedding or have dog allergies. Friendly Black Labradoodles One of the most desirable characteristics of the Black Labradoodle is their deep love of people. A Black Labradoodle is the happiest when they are surrounded by people that they love. They are highly intelligent and trainable, Black Labradoodles enjoy the stimulation of training and are eager to please their loved ones so they pick up on the cues very quickly. Some Black Labradoodle puppies receive many of the Poodle characteristics of being reserved, having a coat that is very fine and needs regular trimming. While other Black Labradoodles receive the excitable and almost immature nature of the Labrador Retrievers. As the Black Labradoodle becomes more common and breeders are crossing them with more consistency the discrepancies are becoming less of an issue and the breed is becoming more consistent. It is important to realize that the AKC does not yet recognize Black Labradoodles as an official breed, though most other registrations recognize them. The AKC actually does not yet recognize any of the doodles. Most families that want a wonderful dog, and are not concerned about show events do not care that the AKC does not officially recognize the Black Labradoodle currently. Black Labradoodle Best Breeders The best way to avoid the inconsistencies of the Black Labradoodle breed is to adopt from a reputable breeder. Avoid puppy mills at all cost and make sure that the breeder you buy from is caring for the health and wellness of your Labradoodle or mini Labradoodle puppy from before conception until you take your Black Labradoodle home with you. A Black Labradoodle should have a sleek, black coat with no sprinklings of any other color and have a black nose. Talk to your breeder about silver and blue Labradoodles as they often appear black as puppies. Some people prefer the looks of a silver or blue Labradoodle to a Black Labradoodle. A Blue Labradoodle, for instance, will start out looking like a Black Labradoodle, but as it grows its coat will come in a beautiful "blue" color. Although the color is called "blue" in the dog world it is almost a gun metal gray. Silver Labradoodles are a lighter silver color than a Blue Labradoodle. Finding a healthy black Labradoodle puppy. A lot comes into play when breeders attempt to create a specifically black Labradoodle. That is because both the purebred Labrador retriever and the purebred poodle come in three different color varieties. Genetics are difficult to control, and sometimes it takes a few generations for breeders to get the desired color of a Labradoodle right. Especially when working with a first generation F1 black Labradoodle. Where Do They Come From? The Labradoodle craze is believed to have begun in Australia. Enthusiastic breeders went on a mission to create an intelligent, friendly and responsive service dog that had all the desirable traits of the Poodle and the Lab. Still, because the Labradoodle is a newer generation crossbreed, there is a lot of speculation regarding the majority of his roots. The Labrador is an ancient breed who hails from Newfoundland, Canada. The Standard Poodle is of German descent and is believed to be over years old. Both breeds were used as waterdogs for fishing and duck hunting, and were renowned for their intelligence and retrieving abilities. Defining Characteristics of the Black Labradoodle Just about the only thing you can guarantee about what your black Labradoodle will look like will be his color. This is because he is a crossbreed. For that reason, his coat texture, size, weight and more will be left up to chance. Despite having similar temperamental traits, the poodle and the Labrador are very different looking dogs. Both the Labrador and the poodle come in three color varieties. The Lab, for example, comes in chocolate, black and yellow, while the poodle comes in black, brown and apricot. Both breeds are athletically built water dogs, however. So a prospective black Labradoodle owner can expect this crossbreed to be similarly built, with a long tail, floppy ears, and a sweet, expressive face. How Big Is a Black Labradoodle? An adult Labradoodle size is going to depend on several factors. Because he is a crossbreed, your Labradoodle full grown will vary in size. This will be based not only on which genetic traits he inherits from his purebred parents, but also how big each parent breed is. On average, the black Standard Labradoodle is around 15 to .Black Labradoodle Grooming and General Care While the Poodle is considered to be a hypoallergenic dog who hardly sheds and produces very little allergy-inducing dander in his coat, the Labrador sheds heavier twice a year during shedding season. For this reason, grooming maintenance could vary when it comes to your black Labradoodle mix. They might also shed. On the other hand, if the black Labradoodle has a coat more like his Poodle parent, his fur could be prone to matting and will need brushing a bit more frequently. However, your black Labradoodle will need an occasional bath every few weeks. He will also need his nails trimmed regularly to keep them from breaking and his ears cleaned to keep them from developing infection due to waxy build up. But these are claims based mostly on biased and superstitions, with little to no evidence supporting them. Truth be told, a black Labradoodle is still just a Labradoodle. And he will carry whichever temperamental traits he inherits from his purebred parents. As previously mentioned, the Labrador and the poodle have very similar temperamental traits. They are both family-oriented breeds who do well with children and are incredibly intelligent. However, they are also both highly energetic and athletic. For this reason, a black Labradoodle will more likely than not require a lot of time and patience when it comes to training and exercise. The black Labradoodle is the crossbreed offspring of two very intelligent and active breeds. He could therefore be prone to boredom and becoming destructive if left to his own devices without doggy jobs or activates. For this reason, we recommend early socialization and obedience training beginning in puppyhood. This will help to ensure the black Labradoodle is a well-adjusted and happy dog. Can You Show a Black Labradoodle? The black Labradoodle makes an excellent family pet and service animal when properly trained and socialized. However, he is a newer generation crossbreed and is still not officially recognized by official clubs and organizations, like the American Kennel Club. For those interested in show dogs, purebreds are the best and safest bet. Still, there are purebred standards that dogs used for show require. This means their black Labradoodle offspring is likely going to be similar. A dog with smarts and energy will require a lot of exercise. Anyone considering getting a black Labradoodle crossbreed should prepare to spend an adequate amount of time every day providing this dog with what he needs to be happy and healthy. But what kind of exercise do they require? Daily walks, jogs, hikes and swimming can all serve as excellent exercise outlets. Your black Labradoodle will also enjoy games of fetch, chase, and Frisbee in a large, fenced-in backyard. Keep in mind that the Labradoodle is the crossbreed offspring of two dogs who were bred for hunting. Make sure that you spend plenty of time working on your recall. Now, what about training? The Labrador and the Poodle are both very smart breeds, but with intelligence comes independent thinking. For the most part, the Lab and the Poodle are eager to please and make loyal, hard-working students. So long as the training sessions are kept fun, positive and rewarding for them. This means that your Labradoodle should be simple to train. Health and Lifespan A Labrador Poodle mix is likely to live into their teens. Provided the dog is well treated and that both parents have been fully health tested. February 10, Table of Contents The Labradoodle is next to the Goldendoodle the most well-known type of Doodle dog. A cross of Labrador Retriever and Poodle, he is a large, goofy and always happy dog. While this Doodle mix can come in a variety of colors, the most popular one by far is black. Today we want to look at black Labradoodles in particular. How much can you expect to pay for a black Labradoodle? Are they hypoallergenic? Do they turn grey with age? Origin The black Labradoodle comes — like Labradoodles of all colors — from a pairing of Labrador and Poodle. The Poodle parent is typically a Standard Poodle. Labradors themselves come in three distinct colors: Black, yellow and chocolate. Poodles have a larger color variety: They can be black, apricot, brown, grey, silver, white … and also have irregular patterns, such as in the Phantom Poodle or Parti Poodle. Color genetics can be complicated. The best way to guaranteed get black Labradoodle puppies is to cross a black Labrador and a black Poodle. In such a litter, most of the puppies should be black. Are Black Labradoodles hypoallergenic? If you have spent any time researching Doodle breeds yet, you know that this is not an easily answered question. On the one hand, there is no such thing as a guaranteed hypoallergenic dog. On the other hand, chances are that your Labradoodle will be a lot more hypoallergenic than most other dogs out there. Whether your Labradoodle is black or a different color does not play a big role when it comes to their coat qualities — a black Labradoodle will be as hypoallergenic as a yellow Labradoodle. Training Labradoodles require consistent and positive training in order to turn into well-behaved companions, regardless of their color! As very energetic and outgoing dogs, it is crucial to teach them to be calm and focused in public and have good leash manners. Since these dogs become invisible at night due to their color, it is advisable to walk them on an LED collar in the dark. Coming when called is a very important skill to add to the list, as well as politely sitting and greeting visitors. You should not delay getting started in training your Labradoodle — the early you begin, the faster your dog will learn. Labradoodles are typically very food-driven. Use high-quality treats and food for your Labradoodle , and he will happily learn any trick you want to teach him! Do Black Labradoodles shed? As a Doodle breed, Labradoodles will not shed — or only shed minimally. If you are not a fan of dog hair around the house, a black Labradoodle certainly fits the bill. This is not true! You can either buy some clippers and groom your dog at home or take him to a local groomer. It goes without saying that this will be tied to daily brushing and monthly baths with a good shampoo. Do not let it mat or your dog will suffer from painful skin sores! Here you can find our recommendations for the best brushes for Labradoodles. Do Black Labradoodles turn gray? You might have gotten a black Labradoodle puppy, but within the first year he seems to become more and more grey. This dilute gene can be passed on without being expressed. Dilute puppies often look black when first born and start to lighten during the first year of their life. This might appear as if your black Labradoodle is turning grey — but in fact, he was just a grey Labradoodle all along who looked to be darker as a young puppy. If you have a true genetically black Labradoodle, he might start to get grey and white hair around his muzzle in his older years. Do they get hot in the sun? If you live in a hot climate you should consider keeping your dog in a short coat. Both the Labrador and the Poodle are waterdogs — meaning that your Labradoodle will probably gladly cool off in any kind of pool, puddle, pond or stream he can find. By wetting him down frequently you can prevent him from overheating in the sun. Remember that dogs cannot sweat and panting can only regulate their body temperature so much. Providing shade and cool water is crucial for keeping your black Labradoodle happy and healthy in the sun. How much is a black Labradoodle? Black Labradoodles will cost around the same as brown or cream Labradoodles. Yes — they are not cheap. However, it is really important that you do not price-shop when looking for a puppy! It is impossible to breed and raise healthy, well-mannered puppies with a good temperament for low prices. Labradoodles are prone to inheritable conditions such as hip dysplasia, and you need to make absolutely sure that your breeder tested both parents for potential issues. Unleash the real potential of your companion! We will email you daily with training tips, ideas and videos. This is an introductory course into our training philosophy. You will get customized video lessons based on your training goals — and you can implement them in just 5 minutes a day.

Discover the online program that more than 57, dog owners have used to rapidly transform their dog into a well-behaved, obedient furry friend. Then you're in the right place! Because you can find loads of great German Shepherd pictures, of both puppies and adult dogs, all throughout this website. And the purpose of this page is even more specific. What do I mean? Well, because this page allows you, as a German Shepherd owner, to not only look at other adorable German Shepherd puppy pics, but also the chance to upload your own pictures of your own German Shepherd puppy and the ability to tell us all about your own little furry friend. Come on guys, now is your time to brag a little even about your own German Shepherd puppy. It's okay - we all do it. And we all understand how "our German Shepherd" is the best one on the planet. And now is the perfect time to let us all in on your own special secret. Plus you get the chance to have a whole web page dedicated to nothing but your very own German Shepherd puppy. And what German Shepherd owner wouldn't love that opportunity? So if you have a German Shepherd mix puppy or dog, we would love to hear about them too. Just use this page instead to tell us about your German Shepherd mix puppy or dog. So here's what you need to do next and it's pretty simple : Just fill out the form below, add your own German Shepherd puppy pictures, and click the Submit button when you're through. A new web page all about your German Shepherd puppy for the whole world to see. Be sure and tell your family and friends to come and visit. Plus they can leave comments too! Our extensive collection features hundreds of stunning photos of these adorable canines in various poses, settings, and backgrounds. Type of Images Available Our collection of German Shepherd puppy images features a variety of different types of photos, including portraits, candid shots, outdoor and indoor images, and more. From close-ups of their expressive faces to action shots of them running and playing, our images capture the energy and character of this amazing breed. Our images can be used for a multitude of purposes, including websites, blog posts, advertisements, social media, books, magazines, and more. Whether you're sharing photos of your own German Shepherd puppy or you need images for a commercial project, our collection is a great resource. Tips for Choosing the Right Image Choosing the right image can make all the difference when it comes to creating a compelling design or message. Here are some tips for selecting the perfect image: Consider the mood you want to convey Think about the context in which the image will be used Look for images with high resolution and clarity Take into account the color scheme of your project and select images that complement it Choose images that have a clear focal point and aren't cluttered Why Choose Our Images? Our collection of German Shepherd puppy images offers a unique combination of quality, variety, and affordability. We pride ourselves in providing images that are visually stunning while still being accessible to a wide range of individuals and businesses. Plus, we offer flexible licensing options, including Royalty-free and Extended licenses, to fit your specific needs. With our images, you can create compelling projects that capture the essence of this beloved breed, no matter what your design or marketing goals may be. So why wait? Browse our collection today to discover the perfect German Shepherd puppy image for your next project! She loves exercise. I always tie her to my bike and she runs next to me. She has never shown aggression but usually barks when a stranger knocks at the door. I taught her the commands sit, down, stay and come here. My sister taught her to say "Hi" with her paws. Her parents May and June came to Nepal from Japan. My Japanese friend gifted me with Dixy at the age of 1 and a half months. She is very friendly to every person who comes to my house. She likes to sit beside me all the time. Early mornings she likes to drink half a liter of cow's milk, at around 11 a. She enjoys chewing bones all of the time. Beau is trained in protection and obedience. She is a bit overweight due to her hip dysplasia, but still maintains her amazing personality and quality look of a Shepherd. Beau loves to play in the snow or in her kiddy pool in the summers. She is a very active old girl. She is super friendly and just strives on attention. Beau has three siblings, which happen to be cats. She loves to curl up with the cats in the living room to take a nap. She is currently training for her CDX, has won a few blue ribbons in conformation, and just began Schutzhund training. Apollo the GSD—"He is very clever and energetic. He weighs 85 pounds and his height is 26 inches.

Boxers make great pets for both families and individuals, with their energetic and loyal traits. Adopting a puppy requires a lot of time and research to find a breeder that is best for you. While there are many to choose from, how do you make a decision? To give you some options, here are 5 Boxer Breeders in Florida to help you find your new furry friend and loyal companion. They are based in the Northeast Ocala area of Florida. Our goal at Shoquest is to produce puppies of the highest quality that will bring a lifetime of joy to their families. For more information, you can send them an email at shoquestboxers gmail. Our Boxers are raised inside with us and are part of our family. We do not have a kennel. The puppies are also raised inside, along with my children, and are well socialized. They come pre-spoiled. Their puppies are socialized from the day they are born and until they are at least 8 weeks of age. They will have their tails docked, dew claws removed, have their 1st set of vaccinations, a Florida Health Certificate and their AKC registration form. To learn more and get in touch, you can visit their website here. We could not be happier with our puppy and the process itself from start to finish. We will definitely be using the JCS Boxers again for our next puppy. They follow a meticulous diet for their puppies, with all of it starting with the health of the mom. Additionally, they plan their litters responsibly. Currently, their next litter is for January and you can view their gallery of puppies on their website here. In order to stay in touch about upcoming litters or to answer any questions you may have, you can send them an email at info jcsboxers. They are located in Central Florida and have been in business since .Boxers are our passion and ours are part of our family, living beside us inside our house because that is where they belong. We have owned Boxers as far back as I can remember. They are a very special breed but they are not for everyone. They require little grooming but they do need daily exercise. Boxers are very intelligent and loving.They are also very playful and have plenty of energy. They are great with children but need proper early training. They are all AKC, will have their tails docked, dew claws removed, vaccinations and health certificates before you take them home. And, they require an application before placing their puppies with you as they want to make sure they are going to loving, forever families. To get in touch about their next litter, you can contact them on their website here. They pride themselves on having a business that focuses on American production including all of the food and everything they use to raise their puppies. We believe we have achieved this with our boxers. We have spent time and research on choosing all our boxers. Boxers are born to show off and they do plenty of that. Their puppies are a part of their family, they have areas to exercise and play and have the best quality care. Currently, they have one boxer from their litter that is available. To keep in touch with their future litters, you can visit their puppies page here. And, to learn more or get in touch you can call them at .With the cost of veterinary bills rising each year, you could easily find yourself paying thousands out of pocket if an accident or illness were to occur. Let our team at Fursure help you get started on finding the best pet insurance policy for your furry friend. You pet will thank you! To get your pet protected and covered in just a few minutes , buy a pet insurance policy today! Join the Pack No spam. Just the very best in show products, expert pet parenting advice, and more.Read about our privacy policy. Thank you! Your submission has been received! Something went wrong while submitting the form. Introducing pet insurance that pays your vet directly. We let you keep your cash on hand, so you can focus on giving your pet the best care possible. We have the answers! What is the price range for a Boxer? The price range for Boxer puppies for sale Florida can be pretty wide. Breeders consider a number of factors when putting a price tag on their precious puppies including gender, coat color, and pedigree. Browse our featured Boxer breeders Florida to get started. Will I meet only local Boxer breeders? When looking for a Boxer for sale in Florida, your initial top choices will be breeders in your city or state. Your chosen breeder can then arrange to have your puppy safely transported to an airport near you. Our vetting process is designed to keep inexperienced breeders and puppy mills out of our network. Breeders and businesses who wish to join us undergo a strict screening process where their breeding knowledge, practices, and facilities are examined. How is Florida Puppies different from other puppy websites? They are good at marketing though! What is a puppy mill like? Puppy mills are dishonest breeders who mistreat their animals and forego essential newborn puppy care to make a bigger profit. Are there any Boxer puppies available in Florida right now? We can help you find out! You can also let us know if you have a specific Boxer puppy in mind! Where are Boxer dogs originally from? Boxers have quite an interesting history that dates back to the late s. It is still up for speculation which specific breeds were crossed to create the Boxer but the list includes the German Bullenbeisser and the Bulldog. The Boxer was created to be a guard dog, a role that it took upon with great success. Today, Boxers do police work but are also popular family dogs. What can I expect from the average Boxer? Boxers are energetic, alert, even-tempered, loyal, loving, and goofy. Boxers are smart and can be trained to do almost anything but keep in mind that they mature slowly -- they are basically puppies until the age of three! As a family dog, Boxers will do anything to protect their family and they are also known to be gentle with kids. How big do Boxers get? Boxers are medium-sized working dogs that can reach a weight of 70 pounds. Male Boxers usually stand at inches at the shoulder while female boxers can reach up to .They are muscular, sturdy, and quite quick. How does Florida Puppies work? Florida Puppies is a network of ethical breeders and businesses and your best source for finding Boxer puppies in Florida. Boxers's Available! Rescued, and still Counting! Ready to Help a Boxer in Need? When taking a dog into the program, they sometimes need a temporary home while in search of their perfect "FURever" home. Fostering a Boxer helps give a dog a healthy start and a new leash on life. Old Dogs, New Tricks.Everyone loves puppies but older dogs deserve attention too. Our silver Boxers don't let a little gray hair get in the way of loving life and are fabulous loyal companions. Consider adding a senior to your family! Seeking a New Best Friend? One who is goofy, playful and makes you laugh? One who is loyal and happy just being with you? One who will love you unconditionally and provide comfort when needed? With so many dogs in need of homes, you're bound to find the perfect Boxer. See Our Available Dogs! Florida Boxer Rescue is always in need of volunteers. Are you thinking about fostering a Boxer in need? Fostering is the most rewarding experience you can imagine. The number of dogs we save is limited by the number of foster homes we have - please help us to save all that we can.Basic obedience commands like come, down, sit, stay, place and more Our Balanced Theory We base our training around the "Classical Conditioning" model a. This includes developing conditioned or automatic reflexes to commands. In its simplest form after proper conditioning , when the owner says "sit," the dog automatically sits without thinking about it. Our unique techniques ensure our program is a success no matter what behavior we encounter. Empowering Owners We empower Owners to train so their dog knows who to obey at all times. Personalized We deal with problem behaviors on a personal basis. Environment Specific We train wherever issues tend to arise i. Supportive We support Owners in the off-hours when training is "not in session". Involved We work with all members of the household. Satisfaction Ratings Our high client satisfaction rating sets us apart from competitors. We help your dog become a valued companion and beloved member of the family. Read what our customers have to say and then give us a call! These words are not enough to thank Tonya for what she did with our beloved Sheepadoodle Teddy! She started teaching him the basics sit, off, stay, place, heel, down and being so smart that helped us to teach him a few extra commands like "paw", "watch". Teddy is a lovable puppy but has TONS of energy which gives him frequent "zoomies" or burst of enthusiastic desire to play, run, and jump over us and being big and heavy, by accident tends to push or pulls us really hard. Tonya has been able to teach him and us! She is a natural animal lover so she does her job with that in mind: LOVE.

Exercise Grooming In the 19th century, Shepherds bred all kinds of dogs mainly to herd and guard flocks. Thus, the dogs needed to display a high level of intelligence, extra normal strength, resilience, courage and bravery, a keen sense of smell, and trainability qualities, etc. These mongrel combinations provided dog breeds that could efficiently guard and herd flocks but differed in appearance and ability, from one locality to another. German Shepherd dogs are well known to be highly inquisitive which makes them excellent for rescue mission training. The German Shepherd has a noble character and shows very high levels of loyalty to its owners. The dog is also described as extremely territorial and has displayed characteristics of overprotectiveness in some cases. The German shepherd can survive in all types of environment; their thick furriness makes them better prepared for cold climates. German Shepherds are considered extremely playful and active. These breeds spend half of their daily routine with activities. The German Shepherd is popularly known as an athletic natured dog and requires a good dose of daily exercise to keep up muscle tone, build and development. If improperly exercised the German Shepherd has been known to become frustrated and exhibit undesirable behaviors. The German Shepherd requires an occasional brushing, as this helps with removing loose hair from its fur. The German Shepherd sheds fur once or twice a year and in this time the breed requires a lot of soft brushing. This can be done using a soft to medium bristle brush. The German Shepherd occasionally requires that its nails are trimmed off when they grow too long, however, some breeds instinctually file their nails against any hard surface that can be fine. Excessive nail growth can cause much pain and even lead to structural concerns. In choosing a German Shepherd breed you must ask yourself what it is you want in a dog and what kind of person are you? Our German Shepherd puppies for sale come from either USDA licensed commercial breeders or hobby breeders with no more than 5 breeding mothers. We only purchase puppies from the very best sources, and we stand behind every puppy we sell. Healthy German Shepherds live for as long as between nine to thirteen years, however, some german shepherd has lived much longer than Thirteen years. How fast can German Shepherds run? An adult German Shepherd can run approximately 30miles per hour. Originally the German Shepherd was bred for guarding and herding of flocks. The German Shepherd dog is highly intelligent and a fairly quick learner and that is why Police and Military institutions use them in operations. How do I care for a German Shepherd dog? The German Shepherd sheds lightly all through the year so be sure to brush it at least twice weekly. Bathe it after each shedding season. Brush its teeth at least once a month. Feed with healthy meals. Routine exercise of at least 45 minutes each day is crucial to the existence of a German Shepherd. Do they shed a lot? Yes, German Shepherds sheds heavily all year round and blows the thick, dense fur under its harsh topcoat twice a year. Are German Shepherds good with kids? German Shepherds are good with kids, however, they can become very protective because of this adult supervisor is highly recommended. At what age are German Shepherds fully grown? In moderation German Shepherds, reach full maturity between months i. There have been known cases of some Eastern European lines taking up to 3years i. Why do German shepherd ears stand up? During the early puppy age weeks German shepherds have floppy ears but this usually becomes pointed ears, standing up due to the cartilage in the ear becoming hard and strong thereby making the ears stand permanently. Are male or female German shepherd more affectionate? The female may also be less tolerable than the male when it comes to playing with children. Are you interested in purchasing a German Shepherd? Fill out the below form and we'll get back to you as soon as possible. Social Media: Facebook Instagram 4. The rescue was started in .It can take as much as a month from when your application is received for it to be approved and you to be considered for adopting a dog. Typically, the rescue receives multiple applications for every dog in the rescue. Applications are not considered on a first-come-first-serve basis, but rather, dogs are matched to the best possible home for them based on their particular needs. Application review involves a check with your veterinarian and employer and a mandatory home visit in which all members of your family must be present. If you want to adopt a puppy under six months of age, you must work part-time or work from home so that you will have sufficient time to care for the puppy. Fenced yards are required and crating is highly recommended. Daytona Beach German Shepherd Rescue relies on foster homes to provide a place for shepherds to live until they can be adopted. Fosters are provided with everything they need to care for the dog, but they are asked to exercise, train, and generally provide rehabilitation for rescue German Shepherds. As a foster parent, you have the first option to adopt your foster dog. This program can be a wonderful way for you to try out several different German Shepherds before you arrive at the perfect dog for your home. Rescue and Adoption Details Website: dbgsdrescue. German Shepherds are extremely intelligent, fiercely loyal, and driven to work. Unfortunately, some of these characteristics are why German Shepherds often end up being rehomed. People may buy a German Shepherd puppy because they like the way the breed looks, they want a protection dog, or they are unaware of the special needs of this breed. Faced with a powerful breed dog with high drive, who can often outsmart their person, many people end up surrendering this breed to a shelter or rescue. Most German Shepherds face a significant adjustment period when they are rehomed. Make sure that you have the time and energy to give your rescued German Shepherd plenty of exercise, training, and structure as they adapt to their new life with you. Try not to come to any conclusions about an individual German Shepherd within the first few weeks or even first months of having them, as it takes this breed a long time to settle into a new home and become the loyal, loving, intelligent companion they are meant to be. Florida has a high rate of homeless dogs of all breeds, and homeless German Shepherds may be even more common than other breeds. The German Shepherd is a popular breed in Florida but rules restricting this breed in rental homes and condos means that it can be hard to find somewhere to live with a German Shepherd. Be sure you know the rules of your HOA, condo or apartment before contacting one of these rescues. Some of the rescues listed here understand these restrictions and will make sure you have verified any rules that you need to follow. If you contact the rescues on this list, there is a very good chance that you will find the perfect German Shepherd for you. Leave a Comment. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Who We Are We are a breed specific home-based foster and adoption rescue for the loyal, intelligent, active and protective German Shepherd dog. Johns, Baker and Clay counties. Our rescue is a c 3 non-profit organization. We are not a shelter, our dogs are all fostered in the loving homes of amazing volunteers. Our mission is to help stop the needless overpopulation of this amazing breed. To that end, all shepherds that we have rescued and are approved for new homes will be spayed or neutered prior to adoption. We try our best to match the perfect home with each German Shepherd we rescue. We pay for our rescued pups to see a licensed veterinarian for a health check and then for any care the dog needs such as vaccinations, heart worm treatment, behavioral training, and medications. We also require that every adoption family's resident dogs be spayed or neutered. Each of our dogs is evaluated to find a forever home that allows them to be the best that they can be! Complete the application and submit. Upon approval, one of our representatives will contact you to schedule a home visit. If all goes well, we will review the contract with you. Lastly, train and love your beautiful new family member! We don't adopt out our dogs as surprises or gifts. All family members must be present at the meet and greet and home check. More About Us We are a small rescue with me, my husband and some amazing volunteers in the entire rescue. Sometimes it's hard to keep up with all of the applications. We make calls, check references, do home checks, transport dogs all over town, take them to vet appointments when our fosters can't, and handle adoptions. We do this for our love of this amazing breed. We do our best. If you put in an application and you are interested in fostering or adopting and you don't hear from us, please reach out. We almost always have dogs waiting in que and more that we turn down almost every day. Thank you! Proudly created with Wix. With a sleek coat of rich black and warm tan, this pound pup already shows promise of growing into a magnificent companion. His expressive eyes gleam with the promise of endless adventures and playful antics. Resilience is Shep's middle name. His early days were marked by confinement, yet he never let it dim his spirit. Shep radiates boundless love and seeks nothing more than the opportunity to share it with a family that cherishes him. His previous owners, regrettably, couldn't provide the love and attention he craved, relegating him to a pen in the yard. When they decided they no longer wanted him back, it became clear that Shep was meant for a brighter, more loving future. Now, this exuberant Shepherd is on the lookout for a forever home where he can thrive, grow, and be the best furry friend a family could ask for. Shep's friendly disposition, combined with his happy-go-lucky nature, make him the ideal companion for anyone ready to embark on a lifetime of laughter, love, and adventure. If you're seeking a loyal, fun-loving canine companion, Shep is eagerly waiting to join your pack! Please note that submitted applications will be given priority over inquiries. We receive many inquiries and may not be able to answer them in a timely manner. We start all of our adoptions with a one-week sleepover to ensure a good fit for everyone. For that reason, formal applications will be given priority over the aforementioned. Submit Application 2. Interview 3. Home Check 4. German Shepherd Puppies are lovingly home raised and socialized at our modern 5 acre park like Kennel Facility in Florida Jacksonville. These are just a few words that describe our German shepherds. Life with a German Shepherd is a joy that one must experience to appreciate and understand, and the intelligence of these great dogs must be seen to be believed. AKC Registered Puppies In Jacksonville Our dogs have provided countless individuals and families with a loyal pet that has a high aptitude, as well as the ability to provide protection. Each of the German shepherd puppies we have for sale are AKC registered and come from a superior lineage. Notably, our German Shepherds go through rigorous testing to qualify for breeding, as our dogs are bred with top sires that have at least a V or VA show rating. German Shepherds are well known for their character and temperament. Poised and confident, our pups are faithful and intelligent companions. They are also great protection dogs, as many safeguard homes, property or livestock. Our breeding program has earned the the highest level of accomplishments that a kennel in the United States can achieve. All of our German Shepherds come with a written guarantee and have been vet-checked, socialized, vaccinated to date, temperament-tested by a professional dog trainer, and above all, have been very much loved. Our German Shepherds are gorgeous Black and Red color, big boned, and correct structure. This price is determined by the size of the puppy, and includes the flight ticket, pre-flight vet exam, a crate the perfect size for your puppy, and travel to the airport. Every year we hand select dogs to add to our breeding program to improve the breed. Breeding top producing west German Sieger show Line German Shepherds is number one in producing quality German Shepherd puppies for sale. Being a German Shepherd dog breeder requires breeding high quality German Shepherds from some of the top rated German Shepherds in Germany They are superior in health with parents being x-rayed with clear hips and elbows by the OFA or the SV. These German shepherd litters of puppies for sale will make great companion dogs as well as excellent conformation, show and working dogs. Their inclination towards making their masters happy, their mental soundness and their high degree of intelligence have made this dog a successful working dog and masterpiece companion for their owners. Our breeding male shepherds are from top pedigrees. You can also visit us on our Facebook page to see recent news. Visit our website, at any moment you may feel you need more information than what we supply here feel free to Contact Us. Our main goal is to produce dogs that will become very special to you. Contact Us with any questions you have about our puppies or anything else.

This girl is currently super scared of new things and will need a lot of work to grow her confidence. Willow is a 2 year old, female Golden Retriever. She weighs 59 Pounds but looks way smaller and compact. She will be spayed, vaccinated and microchipped as part of her adoption. She is thankfully Heartworm negative. Willow does have a serious medical issue. She has a higher level heart murmur. She will need a family that can afford cardiology visits and likely medication for life. This is not fixable, it is something that needs to be managed throughout her life. Currently you would never know there is anything wrong with her health. If you do not have serious funding for vet care please do not apply to adopt her. She needs a home capable of supporting her through this for life. She is very shy at first and startles easily with loud noises. If you give her a few hours she becomes your shadow. She loves to cuddle up with you and get all the pets. She is doing great with other dogs and another confident dog in the house really helps her. We do not know how she would do with cats. She is not fostered with kids but did great at the vet with children loving on her. She does need the kids to give her space for the first few days while she adjusts. Willow is doing great with her training so far. Shes potty trained and crate trained. She will go in her crate on her own and relax if you leave the door open. Shes great in the car and does well on the leash. She has a medium energy level currently. When she settles in she gets more playful and excited but also has a lot of relaxed cuddle times. She loves you to be petting and touching her at all times. She likes running around the yard and is starting to play with toys. Due to her shy nature and her heart issues we are requiring a fenced yard for her. So far we have not seen any issues with her sharing food, treats or toys with other dogs or people. Goldens are just like other dogs. They need training, exercise and socialization. There seems to be a false narrative that they are instantly easy perfect dogs and that is just not true. Every dog needs their owner to support them with the things listed above. They also typically have a high energy level until they get a little older. Proper exercise is crucial. Shes overall a very sweet and gentle girl with so much potential. Please only apply if you meet all the requirements and can provide her the life she deserves. Share 0 Shares When purchasing any new puppy from a dog breeder, it is crucial that you look into them to make sure that they are reputable before actually buying a puppy from them. When it comes to Golden Retrievers, the best breeders will health test their dogs before breeding them and offer new owners a health guarantee. Good dog breeders also make sure that puppies are up to date on things like vaccinations, vet visits, and other types of preventative care. All of their dogs come from established pedigrees, and they are all cleared through health testing before being bred. This ensures that their adult dogs and puppies are all in genetically sound health. Of course, puppies are all kept up to date on all of their age-appropriate and vet-recommended vaccinations, deworming, and vet visits. This gives them plenty of room to run, play, and explore. It is important to note that you will likely need to be placed on a waitlist and put down a deposit before purchasing a Golden Retriever puppy from Meadow Grace Goldens. One or both of this puppy's parents have undergone genetic testing. One or both of this puppy's parents are hip certified. One or both of this puppy's parents is OFA Heart certified. This puppy has had early neurological stimulation exercises. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. We even have all types of golden retrievers for sale! At My Golden Retriever Puppies, we pride ourselves on our golden retriever price being fair and affordable for high quality puppies. Location Information for Virginia Beach Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Virginia Beach? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Virginia Beach? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. The OFA, working with the breed's parent club, recommends the following basic health screening tests for all breeding stock. Each of our dogs has a link to the K9data showing test results. Tests that are performed: Echocardiogram The examiner must be able to perform two-dimensional, pulsed-wave Doppler, and continuous-wave Doppler examinations of the heart. The availability of color Doppler is valuable but not essential for most examinations. The echocardiographic examination should be performed and interpreted by individuals with advanced training in cardiac diagnosis. Board certification by the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine, Specialty of Cardiology is considered by the American College of Veterinary Medical Association as the benchmark of clinical proficiency for veterinarians in clinical cardiology, and examination by a Diplomate of this Specialty Board is recommended. Other veterinarians may be able to perform these examinations provided they have the appropriate equipment and have received advanced training in echocardiography. This view is accepted world wide for detection and assessment of hip joint irregularities and secondary arthritic hip joint changes. To obtain this view, the animal must be placed on its back in dorsal recumbency with the rear limbs extended and parallel to each other. The knees stifles are rotated internally and the pelvis is symmetric. Chemical restraint anesthesia to the point of relaxation is recommended. For elbows, the animal is placed on its side and the respective elbow is placed in an extreme flexed position. Eyes Genetic diseases are those that are passed on from parent to offspring through genes that carry the codes for each specific trait. Many of the diseases and disorders that affect the eyes have genetic factors. OFA Eye Certification examinations are screening exams performed by board certified veterinary ophthalmologists. The exam is performed 30 to 40 minutes after pupil-dilating drops are placed in the eyes. The Eye Certification exam consists of indirect ophthalmoscopy and slit lamp biomicroscopy. It is not a comprehensive ocular health examination, but rather an eye screening exam. For example, Eye Certification exams do not entail measuring tear production, staining the eyes for the presence of corneal ulcers, or measuring intraocular pressures. If a serious ocular health problem such as glaucoma is suspected during the Eye Certification exam, the examiner will recommend a more comprehensive ocular examination. The diagnoses obtained during an OFA Companion Animal Eye Registry exam refer only to the observable phenotype clinical appearance of an animal. Thus it is possible for a clinically normal animal to be a carrier abnormal genotype of genetic abnormalities. Embark DNA Testing for genetic diversity, health conditions, and traits. Complete and return Puppy Questionnaire, please be thorough as this help determine puppy placement. Puppy application cannot be completed on a smart phone sorry you will need to complete it on your computer. Once puppies are born I will reach out to schedule a phone conversation. If there is a mutual agreement that Argos Golden is the right fit and we are able to accommodate your request for a puppy, your deposit will be required at this time, with a signed copy of the contract. What if I don't want a "show dog"? Why do people recommend choosing a breeder who shows their dogs to folks who are just looking for a pet and have no interest in showing? Why should breeding to breed standard be important to a pet home? Soundness: The state of physical and mental health when all organs and faculties are functioning properly, each in its rightful relation to each other. Type: Breed type encompasses appearance, character, condition, bone structure, temperament, and movement; "breed type is all these things. Gait: The gait of a dog is its quality of movement. You want to see ease of movement, unimpaired by illness or poor structure. Temperament: The general attitude a dog has towards other animals and people. The ideal disposition is one of a kindly, outgoing, tractable nature; eager to please and non-aggressive towards man or animal. The Golden has much that appeals to people; his gentle ways, intelligence and adaptability make him an ideal dog. Aggressiveness towards humans or other animals, or any evidence of shyness in an adult should be severely penalized. You want a pet, a companion, not a show dog, right? Well, you chose a Golden for a reason. That their good and kind nature predisposes many Goldens to be excellent therapy dogs. Good, responsible breeders seek to preserve those definitive and positive characteristics. What about type and structure? How the dog is put together, able to move freely and comfortably? Or just trust someone who has no interest in proving their dogs? Well-bred, but maybe with a slight imperfection, and those are the puppies placed in pet homes. If you want a healthy dog, with a properly sweet temperament, choose your breeder wisely! This was authored by Terri Lewin Gilbert. Please direct any inquiries to her if you have any questions about sharing it on any other media. The simple answer to that is no. You decide what sex you would want. I will do an aptitude test called The Volhard Pet Aptitude Test on the puppy to help determine which puppy will be placed with each family. Top Dog Tips: The ideal age to test the puppy is at 49 days of age when the puppy is neurologically complete and it has the brain of an adult dog. With each passing day after the 49th day the responses will be tainted by prior learning. These tests determined that it was indeed possible to predict future behavioral traits of adult dogs by testing puppies at 49 days of age. Testing before or after that age affected the accuracy of the test, depending on the time before or after the 49th day. PAT uses a scoring system from and consists of ten tests. The tests are done consecutively and in the order listed. Each test is scored separately, and interpreted on its own merits. The scores are not averaged, and there are no winners or losers. The entire purpose is to select the right puppy for the right home. Together with Social Attraction and Following a key indicator for ease or difficulty in training. During the testing make a note of the heart rate of the pup, which is an indication of how it deals with stress, as well as its energy level. Puppies come with high, medium or low energy levels. You have to decide for yourself, which suits your life style. Dogs with high energy levels need a great deal of exercise, and will get into mischief if this energy is not channeled into the right direction. Finally, look at the overall structure of the puppy. You see what you get at 49 days age. If the pup has strong and straight front and back legs, with all four feet pointing in the same direction, it will grow up that way, provided you give it the proper diet and environment in which to grow. If you notice something out of the ordinary at this age, it will stay with puppy for the rest of its life. He will not grow out of it. Puppy Development and Stimulation Before your puppy goes home with you it will have experienced many interaction with people and situations. Grooming: Your puppy will have had many baths along with being placed on a table for drying and grooming. Nails will have been trimmed weekly from week 2 of age. Starting with a clipper and ending with a dremmel tool. Potty training: Potty training starts early at 4 weeks of age. Crate training: Your puppy will have a great head start on getting used to a crate and will have taken many naps in the crate by itself. Crate training is VERY important for the safety of your puppy. Socialization: Your puppy will have been exposed to many different people, noises, smells and situations. My goal is for you to have a even tempered, well socialized puppy.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. C is a group of breeders with the same vision. We consider each other a family. Officially established as a breed in the making in this tight-knit breeding program began before with Adam Parcelli and George Garibay teeming up with dogs who were brothers Pacific Blue's Kong and Pacific Blue's Heff, both produced by Adam Parcelli and their descendants. All dogs coming into the program are approved by Adam Parcelli, the founder of the Pacific Bulldogs. After 5 years in of being established many in the group had left and others had entered. George decided to go his own way. The family then made the necessary adjustments to continue with the original vision. Now in , the PBKC has a solid group including 31 official breeders and many in the approval process. When a person wants to enter the PBKC they 1st need to acquire a Pacific Bulldog or two and produce a litter and be accepted by displaying ethical business and breeding practices. It is easiest to enter the family by being mentored by an Official breeder. We only have up to go from here as the gene pool increases. This is a breed in development. English Bulldog Companion Dog Group The goals and purposes of this breed standard include: to furnish guidelines for breeders who wish to maintain the quality of their breed and to improve it; to advance this breed to a state of similarity throughout the world; and to act as a guide for judges. Breeders and judges have the responsibility to avoid any conditions or exaggerations that are detrimental to the health, welfare, essence and soundness of this breed, and must take the responsibility to see that these are not perpetuated. After bull-baiting was banned by the English Parliament in , the English Bulldog eventually developed into a shorter-legged, thicker, companion version of its working predecessors. Bulldogs that are made to be massive, with excessive nose wrinkle, and muzzles of insufficient length, are unfit for an active, healthy lifestyle. For this reason, English Bulldogs of moderation are preferred. History The English Bulldog of today would not be recognized by fanciers of the earliest dogs of the breed. Those early dogs had a specific use, that of bull holding, which was a legitimate part of the butcher's business. Unfortunately, this also developed into the grisly sport of bull baiting, and they were also pitted against other animals, as well as their own kind. The Bulldog eventually developed into a shorter, squattier version of its progenitors, as that is what was preferred in the show ring. Regardless, the Bulldog has endeared itself to many because of its loving, gentle temperament. General Appearance The ideal English Bulldog is a medium size, short coated dog with a thick body that is wide and heavy in the shoulders and lighter in the hindquarters. When viewed from above, outline should be a pear shape. He is powerful and compact, with a head that is fairly large, short and broad in proportion to the size of the dog. General appearance, coupled with attitude, suggests great stability, vigor and strength. The dog appears fit and capable of great athleticism. When comparing both sexes, due consideration is to be given to females as they do not bear the breed characteristics to the same degree as the males. All points of the standard are well distributed and bear good relation one to the other. Disqualifications: Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Characteristics The English Bulldog has an equable and kind disposition; and is resolute and courageous. The characteristic demeanor is one of peace and dignity. These attributes are evident in the expression and behavior of the breed. Disqualifications: Viciousness or extreme shyness. Head When viewed from the front, the head is broad and square. In profile, the head appears high and moderately short from the occiput to the point of the nose. The forehead is flat, never rounded or domed; and never too prominent nor overhanging the face. The well-defined temples frontal bones are broad, square and high, causing a deep furrow that extends from the stop to the middle of the skull. The stop is a deep, wide indentation between the eyes. The well-rounded cheeks protrude sideways and outward beyond the eyes. SKULL The skull is relatively large in circumference, and appears high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the skull. The muzzle is turned slightly upward and is very deep from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. The distance from the bottom of the stop between the eyes to the tip of the nose should not be less than the distance measured from the tip of the nose to the edge of the under lip. The jaws are broad and very square. Jaws should not be wry. The thick, broad, pendant flews, referred to as the "chops", are very deep. They completely overhang the lower jaw at each side. In front, they join the under lip, covering the teeth, which are not noticeable when the mouth is closed. Serious Fault: Wry mouth. The canines are wide apart; and the incisors are in an even, level row. Eliminating Faults: Teeth or tongue showing when the mouth is closed. EYES The very dark eyes are quite round and moderate in size; never being sunken nor bulging. When the dog is looking directly forward, the lids cover the white of the eyeball. There is no haw showing. Viewed from the front, the eyes are situated low down in the skull well away from the ears. They are set in the front of the head and are wide apart but with their outer corners within the outline of the cheek, when viewed from the front. The eyes and the stop are set in the same straight line. Eyes are free from entropinism, cherry eye, and excessive amounts of loose skin. No white is showing while the dog is looking straight ahead. Serious Faults: Visible haw. Whites of eyes showing while dog is looking straight ahead. Eliminating Fault: Excessive amounts of loose skin around eyes. NOSE The nose is large, broad and black in color. Its tip is set back deeply between the eyes. The wide, large nostrils are open. Nose roll does not protrude over the nostrils, constricting breathing. Very Serious Fault: Any nose color other than black in adult dogs. Eliminating Faults: Pinched nostrils. Over-nose roll, even if broken, that covers any part of the nose. EARS The small, thin, "rose" ears are set high on the head. The front inner edge of each ear joins the outline of the skull at the top back corner of the skull, placing them wide apart and well away from the eyes. Very Serious Faults: Erect ears; prick ears; button ears; cropped ears. Neck The short, thick neck is deep, strong, and well-arched. The skin is moderately loose, thick and wrinkled, forming a dewlap on each side from the lower jaw to the chest. Forequarters The shoulders are very broad and muscular. They are widespread providing stability and great power. They are set wide apart. The legs themselves are not curved or bandy. The low elbows allow free movement of front assembly. Pasterns are short, straight and strong. Body The body is moderately short and well knit, with stout limbs, well-muscled, and in hard condition, with no tendency toward obesity. The brisket and body are very capacious, and the chest is very deep and well let down between the front legs. Forechest is prominent. The body is well ribbed up behind the forelegs, and the ribs are well rounded. The back is short and strong, wide behind the shoulders and comparatively narrower at the loin. The topline is a distinguishing characteristic of this breed. There is a slight fall off behind the shoulders to the beginning of the back, which is the lowest part of the entire topline. It then rises to the loin, which is higher than the shoulders. The croup then curves downward to the set on of the tail, creating the arch that is distinctive to the breed. The belly is tucked up. Hindquarters The rear legs are strong and large, and they are slightly longer than the forelegs, which elevates the loin above the shoulders. The stifles are rounded and they turn very slightly outward, away from the body, which results in the hocks turning inward and the rear feet turning very slightly outward. Feet The compact, thick feet are moderate in size. The toes are well split up and have high knuckles. The front and rear feet may point straight ahead or slightly outward. Flat feet or splayed toes should be penalized. Serious Faults: Flat feet. Splayed toes. Tail The short tail is set low, and has a thick root, a decided downward carriage and a fine tip. It may be straight or "screwed," but never curved or curly. A straight tail is cylindrical and is tapered uniformly. A screw tail has well-defined bends or kinks that may be abrupt or even knotty, but no portion of the tail may be elevated above the base or root. Absent, inverted or extremely tight tails should be heavily penalized. Serious Faults: No tail. Inverted tail. Tight tail. Skin The skin is soft and fairly loose, especially at the head, neck and shoulders. There should be two folds forming the dewlap at the throat, from the lower jaw to the chest. Eliminating Faults: Nose roll overhanging or partially covering the nose. Coat The short, straight coat lies flat and close, and is smooth, glossy and of a fine texture. There are no fringes, feathers or curls. Color Coat color is uniform, pure, and brilliant. The various breed typical colors are to be preferred in the following order: 1 Red brindle; 2 All other brindles; Note: to be considered perfect, brindles are to have a fine, even, and equal distribution of the composite colors. Note: a perfect piebald is preferable to a muddy brindle or a defective solid color. Solid black and black and tan are very undesirable, but black is not so objectionable if occurring, to a moderate degree, in piebald patches. Note: A small white patch on the chest is acceptable in brindles and solid-colored dogs. Color patches on piebalds are expected to be well-defined, of pure color, and symmetrically distributed. Disqualification: Albinism. Weight Dogs are to be fit and without excess weight. The weight range for mature males is from 50 to 55 pounds. The weight range for mature females is from 45 to 50 pounds. Serious Faults: Males over 55 pounds; females over 50 pounds. Gait Movement and carriage are distinctive to the breed. There is a characteristic roll to the gait, which allows effortless movement without the pounding of the front assembly on the floor, or having the rear assembly so turned in or out as to cause cow-hocked or spread-hocked rear movement. Movement is somewhat constrained, moving with short, quick steps on the tips of the toes. The rear feet appear to skim the ground; they should not be lifted high. They always appear sound and efficient while in motion. Eliminating Faults A dog with an Eliminating Fault is not to be considered for placement in a conformation event, nor are they to be reported to UKC. Teeth or tongue showing when the mouth is closed. Pinched nostrils. Over-nose wrinkle, even if broken, that covers any part of the nose. Disqualifications A dog with a Disqualification must not be considered for placement in a conformation event, and must be reported to UKC. Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Females: pounds. Height Males: inches. Females: inches. Not only was bull-baiting considered entertaining, but many believed baiting the bull before killing made the meat tastier and more nutritious. The cruel sport of bull-baiting remained widely popular until it was outlawed in , nearly resulting in the breed's extinction. Those who admired Bulldogs rescued the breed by carefully choosing those with distinct physical characteristics, not those with ferocious tendencies. In fact, the characteristics that make the English Bulldog a breed apart have also resulted in an extremely unhealthy phenotype. The extreme brachycephalic skull type, heavy body, and wide chest and forequarters have resulted in breathing difficulties, heat intolerance, inability to whelp naturally, and a number of other debilitating ailments that plague this wonderful breed. Today, many organizations are out to save the English Bulldog breed by adjusting stringent breed standards that reward physical extremes such as a flat head profile to be less punishing and extreme. Allowing the English Bulldog to have a muzzle and less wide forequarters allows the dog to tolerate heat, whelp naturally, breathe better, and enjoy a better quality of life. No other breed is more deserving than the English Bulldog. Responsible breeders are on board with the newer conformation style, which, ironically, is more in line with how the Bulldog originally appeared. CKC encourages all who know and love the English Bulldog to read the English Bulldog standard and strive to apply it to their dogs and breeding stock. Breed Characteristics Head: Somewhat brachycephalic skull-type, moderate in size, broad, square, and substantial. It should always be in proportion to the rest of the body, never so large as to hinder the natural whelping process. In profile, the head should never appear flat-faced. From the stop to the occiput, the head is high and well-muscled as opposed to elongated and narrow. From the front, the plane of the skull appears flat and not rounded. The cheeks and temporalis areas are well-muscled and filled, giving breadth and depth to the head. Extreme brachycephalic skull types lacking a discernible muzzle or exhibiting a completely flat profile are incorrect. Wrinkling on the head and face should not be excessive to allow for a neat and clean appearance, with the head appearing overall neat and rather clean-cut. The head may exhibit some minimal wrinkling, but never in excess or with exaggeration. A clean, minimally wrinkled head is preferred. Eyes: Eyes are medium in size and may be open almond, slightly rounded, or lemon-shaped. They are set well apart. The eyes exhibit a fair amount of skull above and between one another. They should appear far from the ears in profile and when viewed from the front. Eyelids should be sufficiently tight as to avoid exposing haw, inner membranes, third eyelids, or whites. The eyes should never appear sunken, bulged, or overly droopy. Ears: Set wide apart, yet high on the head. They are small in size, thin, and may be buttoned, tulip, or rose. The ears should appear to have sufficient distance from the eyes from any angle. Ears should never be carried erect or cropped. Muzzle: The muzzle is broad, deep, full, and short. The upper and lower jaws are broad and have good bone substance. There should be enough muzzle length to allow the nose to protrude for easy breathing and prevent the soft palate from extending into the airways of the throat. The lower jaw is slightly longer than the upper jaw and somewhat turned up, giving the English Bulldog a slight pouting appearance when viewed from the front and giving the muzzle a rounded profile; however, the lower jaw should never protrude beyond the break of the lips. The teeth and tongue must be completely concealed when the mouth is closed. Nose: The nose is well-pigmented and black or self-colored according to the coat in non-standard color varieties. The nostrils are well-opened. The nostrils should never be narrow or closed. Neck: Broad, of a moderate length to allow for proud head carriage, and powerfully muscled, with a slight arch. The neck tapers smoothly from the deeper and broader body toward the head. The neck is fairly clean-cut, but somewhat loose skin or a very slight dewlap may be present. Chest: Deep and broad, but never wider than deep. The brisket extends to the point of the elbows preferred but may drop just below. Body: Compact, deep, solid, and of good substance and strong bone. The body is never racy or refined. The width at the forequarters is approximately equal to the width at the hindquarters. Feet: Oval to round, compact, with well-arched toes and tough pads. Front feet may be slightly toed-out. Tail: Set low on the croup, thick at the base, and tapering toward the tip. The tail may be short to medium in length and straight, pump-handled, or gently curved, or it may be curled over the back in a loose or tight single or double curl. Preference is given to straight, curved, and pump-handled tails. Inverted tails, corkscrew tails, and kinked tails are extremely undesirable and potentially unhealthy. Docked tails that can hide such faults are not preferred. Movement: The English Bulldog should demonstrate movement that is capable, powerful, effortless, and efficient; all of the characteristics that one would expect to see in a dog once used to apprehend livestock. The characteristics of a healthy structure are evident. When moving away, the forelegs and rear pasterns should remain parallel to one another. When viewing movement from the front, the forelegs should remain parallel, with elbows and paws moving neither in nor out. From the rear, the back pads should be visible when the rear legs are extended. As speed increases, the forelimbs and hindlimbs will converge to the center line of gravity. From the side, the topline should remain firm and level. Good reach of movement in the front allows the forepaw to extend out in line with the nose. When extended, the width between the forefeet should be approximately equal to the width between the hindfeet when extended, indicating balance, good reach, and good drive. Dogs that exhibit any sign of breathing or locomotive difficulty shall be disqualified from the show ring. Temperament: A true English gentleman, the English Bulldog is renowned for their noble, calm, yet amiable character. Any fearful or unprovoked aggressive or fearful behavior toward people is incorrect for this breed. The body is somewhat off-square to slightly rectangular in proportions, with the length of the body measured from the point of the forechest to the point of the rump, being just slightly greater than the height at the withers. The ideal body height-to-length ratio is between and .The body is well-put-together, with sturdy substance and solid bone. Males should appear masculine, being more substantial in size and mass, while females should appear more feminine and slightly less substantial. Neither should lack overall type. The weight of a male or female is always in proportion to height. The English Bulldog recognized by the Continental Kennel Club is a capable and healthy dog without extremes in breed type. Head General Appearance: Somewhat brachycephalic skull-type, moderate in size, broad, square, and substantial. Expression: Regal, capable, alert, and intelligent. Stop: The stop is definite, preferably forming a degree angle between the topskull and muzzle. Skull: The ideal muzzle-to-skull ratio is between and , with the topskull being longer than the muzzle. The ideal muzzle-to-skull axis is convergent. Lips or Flews: The lips are wide and thick, yet rather clean and well-fit. They just conceal the lower jaw without extending well below the lower jawline. Cheeks: The cheeks are well-developed and well-filled. The protrusion of the cheeks should extend to or beyond the corner of the eyes. The cheeks should never appear chiseled or flat. Some minimal wrinkling around the cheek, extending from the outer corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth, may be present. Dentition and Bite: Forty-two strong, clean, and white teeth. The bite may be level, reverse-scissor, or slightly undershot. Contact preferred between the top and bottom incisors. Missing or broken teeth as a result of routine work are not to be penalized. Body and Tail General Description: Compact, deep, solid, and of good substance and strong bone. Topline: Straight and level from slightly prominent withers to croup or may be just slightly arched at the loin. The back is broad, strongly muscled, and straight, yet supple. The loin is taut, flat, level, slightly arched, and yet supportive. The back is never swayed or roached. Croup: May be flat and level with the topline or gently sloped preferred. Underline: A slight tuck-up is present or the underline may run parallel to the topline. The underline is taut and firm, without any indication of sagging or excess weight. Ribs: Long, well-sprung, well-laid-back, oval-shaped, never barrel-chested or slab-sided. Forequarters and Hindquarters Forequarters: The forequarters are always balanced with the hindquarters and well-angulated with well-laid-back shoulder blades. Shoulder blades are approximately equal in length to the upper arm and forearm. NOTE: The shoulders and elbows should never be loose or so broad that they appear disproportionate or like a person's shoulders. Loose elbows detract from agility and stamina, causing the dog to work harder to move them properly. Elbows: The elbows are close to the body. The distance from the withers to the brisket may be equal to or greater than the distance from the elbows to the ground. Forelegs: Frontal View: Straight, of good muscle, strong bone, and parallel to one another. Side View: The forelimbs appear straight with strong pasterns. Pasterns: Never weak or broken. Hindquarters: The upper and lower thighs are equal in length, strong, sturdy, of strong bone, and well-muscled. Rear View: When viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are parallel to one another. Side View: Good angulation will allow the rear toes to align with the point of the rump or within one to two paw-lengths behind the point of the rump, with the rear pasterns remaining perpendicular to the ground and parallel to one another. Stifle Joint: Well-angulated with a good bend to well-let-down rear pasterns. Angulations: The angulation of the hindquarters is always in balance with the angulation of the forequarters. Coat Skin: Well-fitted, yet supple. The skin should never obstruct the outline of the dog. Coat Type: Short, close, glossy, fine, and straight without feathering, fringing, or waves. Standard coat color variety: Solid white, solid colors in various shades of fallow to light tan to red, various brindles, fawn, and smut, all with or without white markings piebald. Non-standard coat color variety: Black, liver, blue, all with or without tan or brindle points, all with or without white markings piebald. Movement The English Bulldog should demonstrate movement that is capable, powerful, effortless, and efficient; all of the characteristics that one would expect to see in a dog once used to apprehend livestock. Temperament A true English gentleman, the English Bulldog is renowned for their noble, calm, yet amiable character. Faults All dogs should be in proper healthy condition, free from disease or defect. Any departure from this description is considered a fault. Unless altered, all male dogs should have two fully descended testicles. Find a Puppy.

I have a great love and passion for German Shepherds, due to their intelligence and loyalty. I have a large, close family that are helping me raise, train, show and breed the dogs I love. Tiltonhaus kennel is attached to our home so that our German Shepherds can live primarily in our home enjoying family life with us. Rotating the dogs this way gives each dog lots of quality time with us. We strive to give our dogs the environment and attention that best enhances their well being and health. We live on 10 acres of land where our dogs can run and explore, along with several secure yards and runs for outdoor activity. Tiltonhaus German Shepherd dogs enjoy family outings, such as hikes, bike rides, picnics, camping, vacations, etc. All of our German Shepherds are purebred, AKC Registered, and come from top West German champion bloodlines known for producing dogs that are not only beautiful, but have balanced temperaments and strong work ethics. Degenerative Myelopathy. Our breeding dogs have had their hips and elbows certified with either the German SV a-stamp program or through OFA, which gives us the confidence to have all of our Tiltonhaus puppies guaranteed for hips and health in writing. Our puppies are handled and socialized from birth. So we become very attached to these little pups and care about their well being. Potential buyers should be prepared to answer questions about why they want to purchase a puppy and their plans for their puppy. We recommend that your new puppy get basic obedience training to be a happy, well-adjusted dog. Tiltonhaus is family owned and operated, fully licensed business located in Deer Park, Washington 15 minutes north of Spokane, WA. Our breeding program has earned the the highest level of accomplishments that a kennel in the United States can achieve. Nadelhaus breeds purebred German Shepherds year round and we also import both German Shepherd puppies and adults direct from Europe for our clients. Long-haired German Shepherds are technically called a long coat German Shepherd, while a short-haired German Shepherd is called a normal coat or stock coat German Shepherd. Dogs with either coat have the same physiological structure and both have double coats: an undercoat and a top coat. The only difference between the two is the top coat. The long haired German Shepherd will have a heavier top coat than the undercoat. The double coat of a German Shepherd is an important feature of the breed. The double coat weathers and insulates the dogs—it protects them from the cold in the winter and the heat in the summer. The length of the coat of a German Shepherd has no impact on its ability as a working dog. What does a long haired German Shepherd look like? The skeleton and structure of a long-haired German Shepherd will be the same as a short-haired German Shepherd. Both dogs will have an undercoat, but the difference is that the top coat of a long-haired German Shepherd will be longer. The long coat GSD has longer and silkier hair on the chest, back, face, tail, and on the backside of its legs. Short on the head, including the inside of the ears, on the front side of the legs, on the paws and toes, somewhat longer and more strongly covered in hair on the neck, almost forming a mane. On the back side of the legs the hair extends to the carpal joint or the hock and forms clear trousers on the back side of the haunches. Historically, German Shepherds originated in Germany and were native sheepdogs. He firmly believed that the standard of the German Shepherd breed should not include dogs with long hair. Throughout the s, long haired German Shepherds were considered unsuitable and unacceptable for breeding. It is important to note that long-haired German Shepherds are the result of natural genetic diversity and not a separate breed. Their long coats are an inherited trait that can occur when both parents carry the recessive long-hair gene. This gene manifests as a more luxurious and abundant coat, offering a striking contrast to the traditional short-haired German Shepherd appearance. The breeding of long-haired German Shepherds follows the same rigorous standards and principles as their short-haired counterparts. The focus remains on maintaining the breed's exceptional temperament, working abilities, and overall health. Over time, breeders recognized the value of long-haired German Shepherds and began selectively breeding them to maintain and enhance their unique characteristics. Through careful pairings and strategic breeding programs, the long-haired variety established itself as a distinct and cherished branch of the German Shepherd breed. How big do long-haired German Shepherds get? Long-haired German Shepherds are structurally the same as short-haired German Shepherds, therefore they can both grow to similar sizes. Males: inches tall, pounds Females: inches tall, pounds Since both German Shepherds are physiologically the same, they also have the same temperaments: loyal, intelligent, energetic, courageous and protective. German Shepherds are ranked 2 on the AKC Breed Popularity list and make for wonderful family companions and working dogs. How can I identify a long-haired German Shepherd puppy? In the photo below are two litter mates from a recent Nadelhaus litter. The puppy on the left is a long coat and the puppy on the right is a normal coat. The long coat has wispier hair on the chest, back, face, tail, and on the backside of its legs. Long-hair female German Shepherd next to short-hair male German Shepherd. Genetically in German Shepherds, the short hair gene is dominant and the long hair gene is recessive. This means if two short-haired German Shepherds are mated, but neither carries the recessive long hair gene, then no long haired puppies can be produced. However, if two short-haired German Shepherds are mated and both carry the recessive gene, then long-haired German Shepherd puppies can be produced. Long-haired German Shepherds are considered a less common variant of the breed, adding to their allure and exclusivity. While short-haired German Shepherds dominate the breed standard, enthusiasts of long-haired Shepherds appreciate their unique beauty and elegant appearance. Due to their rarity, finding a reputable breeder or rescue organization specializing in long-haired German Shepherds may require some research and patience. However, the joy of owning one of these beautiful dogs is well worth the effort for those who appreciate their longer coats and exceptional qualities. Do long-haired German Shepherds shed more than short-haired German Shepherds? No, this is a common misconception. Although they shed less than short haired German Shepherds, their coats still require regular maintenance. They will need regular brushing and grooming, especially if you enjoy hiking or outdoor activities with your GSD. While it is a rare occurrence for a long-haired GSD to not have an undercoat, most of them do have undercoats. And just like short-haired GSDs, their undercoats will shed more or less throughout the year depending on the season. Should I trim my long haired German Shepherd's coat? The decision to trim a long haired German Shepherd comes down to personal preference, but it is not a necessity. Trimming can help make for more manageable living around the house. If you choose to trim, you can trim around the backs of the ears, on the back of the legs both front and back and then thin the bushy tail. Shaving a German Shepherd on the other hand is never recommended. Their double coats help keep them warm in the winter and cool in the summer. What are long haired German Shepherds called? Regular brushing: Long-haired German Shepherds require regular brushing to prevent matting and tangles. Aim for at least a few brushing sessions per week to keep their coat in good condition. Finish your brushing session with a gentle dog brush to clean up loose hairs. Bathing and drying: It's important to bathe your long-haired German Shepherd as needed, using a dog-specific shampoo. Be sure to thoroughly rinse out all the shampoo to prevent any residue. After bathing, use a high-velocity dryer or a cool air dryer to dry their coat thoroughly, as moisture trapped in the fur can lead to skin issues. Professional grooming: Consider taking your long-haired German Shepherd to a professional groomer for occasional trimming and coat maintenance. A groomer can help keep the fur around sensitive areas, such as the paws and ears, tidy and reduce the chances of matting. Watch for seasonal shedding: Like all German Shepherds, long-haired ones will undergo shedding seasons. Be prepared for increased shedding during these times and brush your dog more frequently to remove loose hair. A de-shedding tool can be helpful in managing shedding and keeping their coat healthy. Remember, each dog is unique, and the specific care requirements may vary. Does Nadelhaus sell long haired German Shepherd puppies? Nadelhaus breeds German Shepherds puppies year round and while the majority of puppies we sell are short hair, we do have occasionally have long haired puppies. We breed all our German Shepherds in the black and red color. If you are looking for a long haired adult German Shepherd, we can also import long-haired German Shepherds direct from Europe. Contact us for more information. We are a small hobby breeder of West Showline German Shepherds with only a few litters a year. Our dogs are part of our family, share our home, and travel with us. We are located in Halifax, PA about 30 minutes north east of Harrisburg. I was impressed with their working ability and superior intelligence along with a loving demeanor that was absolutely unmatched. As I was learning more about the breed and looking for my perfect addition to my family, I saw the Long Coats for the first time and fell in love. Our dogs have brought pure joy and happiness into our home and it is our goal to bring the same joy and happiness into yours! They have sound temperaments, are very intelligent, easy to train, loyal, and protective. Everyone is encouraged to stop in for a visit of our home, meet our family, and see our GSD's. It is our goal to produce top quality German Shepherds with a stunning black and deep red coat with loving personalities, outstanding character, and family protection in one perfect package. Integrity is Very important with us, you will Never feel pressured into getting a Puppy, we are very honest and direct with our process and time table when we will have Puppies available. All the Information Posted about our Dogs can be verified through Documentation. Our Pictures are Never Altered or adjusted to mislead you into thinking our dogs are better than they are, and to be Honest we do not need too : The day you pickup your Bergerhaus puppy you will be invited into a Secret Facebook page called Bergerhaus Puppy Club if you so choose to accept here you can interact with others Bergerhaus puppy owners, watch littermates of your baby grow, become friends with other puppy owners, and ask advise from everyone in the group! These dogs are perfect for special needs, families, emotional support, veterans, and more. Our Long Coat German Shepherds look incredible and are bred from some of the best bloodlines originating from Germany. Take a look at the long coat German Shepherd puppies and adult dogs that we currently have available here at Regis Regal. Long Haired German Shepherd Adults For most people it's probably fairly easy to determine what a long coat German Shepherd is - it simply refers to the length of their fur. Whilst a "standard" German Shepherd will traditionally have short fur, long coats are the result of a recessive gene that any dog can carry. It doesn't mean long coats have any problems - far from it, and for many people they are an even more desirable dog than the standard breed German Shepherd. Long haired German Shepherds look incredibly handsome, and if you're happy with the additional effort required in grooming them and keeping their hair in good condition then they're as loyal and obedient as any other German Shepherd. With our private courier service, we can safely deliver your puppy to all fifty states with utmost love and care. More information here on the long-coat puppies we currently have available for sale. What is their Temperament Like? There is no discernible difference between the temperament of a long coat German Shepherd and a normal short coat dog. For a long time they've been unfairly labeled as being difficult, but sadly this really stems from them not being accepted due to falling outside the normal breeding standard. The Long haired German Shepherds we've raised here at our top breeding facility in Illinois. Our specialized trained dogs have gone on to be used as search dogs, rescue dogs, police dogs, service dogs and therapy dogs. There's no reason long coats can't perform as well or better than short coats since they do look quite incredible at the same time! Whilst a long coat can be a far more desirable dog for some people, when it comes to price they can actually work out around the same price, or even cheaper, than a standard or "normal coat" German Shepherd. The dogs we breed and train here at Regis Regal come from some of the best bloodlines in the world. We conduct Schutzhund training to develop desirable traits including confidence, desire to work, and self-control. Inquire about one of our Long Coat German Shepherds If you would like additional information about our prestigious long coat German Shepherds or our available puppies and service dogs for special needs, please contact us at or regisregal gmail. Your name.

Ohld ing-glish Bool-dawg Description The Olde English Bulldogge is a muscular, medium sized dog of great strength, stability and athleticism. He is well balanced and proportioned, with no features exaggerated or standing out. He has the appearance of a dog capable of doing his original job, bull baiting. The OEB head is prominent and dramatic. The cheeks are large, well developed and display powerful jaw muscles. A slightly wrinkled forehead is acceptable. There is a crease from the stop to the occiput. It has a narrow skull and domed forehead. The muzzle is square, wide and deep, with definite layback. Distance from the tip of the nose to the stop does not exceed one-third of the distance from the tip of the nose to the occiput. Height of the muzzle from the bottom of the chin to the top of the muzzle is equal to or greater than the length of the muzzle, thus producing the deep, square muzzle. There is slight to moderate wrinkle on the muzzle. Flews are semi-pendulous. The bite is undershot and horizontally straight. Lower jawbone is moderately curved from front to back. Eyes are round to almond-shape and medium sized. They are set wide apart, with the outside corner of the eye intersecting with the outside line of the skull and are set low, at the level of the muzzle, where the stop and muzzle intersect. Eye color is brown, with black pigmented eye rims. Canine teeth are large. Broken, chipped or extracted teeth are acceptable. There are 6 corn row teeth between canines. Nostrils are wide with a line running vertically between nostrils from the tip of nose down to the bottom of the upper lip. Nose is large and broad in relationship to the width of the muzzle. Nose color is black. Ears are rose, button or tulip, with rose preferred. They are set high and to the rear of the skull. The ears are positioned as wide as possible on the outside of the skull. They are small to medium in size. Neck is medium length, wide, and slightly arched. It is a little smaller than the head where the two meet, and gets wider from that point to the shoulders. It is slightly loose from jaw to chest, forming a double dewlap. They are broad, heavily muscled and have a separation between shoulder blades. The scapula shoulder blade should be at an approximate degree angle to vertical and form an angle approximately degrees to the humerus forearm. Scapula and humerus should be roughly equal in length. A vertical line drawn from the point of the scapula top to the ground will pass directly through the elbow. The elbows are not turned in or out. The legs are set wide apart, coming straight down from the shoulders. They are straight vertically on inside of legs and well-muscled, giving a bowed appearance of front quarters. The forelegs have medium bone and are in proportion to the body. The pasterns are medium in length. They are straight, strong, flexible and nearly perpendicular to the ground. Body is sturdy and powerful. The length from tip of breastbone to rear thigh is slightly longer than the height from ground to withers. The back is wide and muscular, showing power. Topline has a slight roach or wheel back. There is a fall in the back, to its low spot behind the shoulders. From this point the spine rises to the loin. The high point of the loin is a little bit higher than the shoulders then there is a gentle curve, forming an arch, down to the tail. Loin back of ribcage to hips is muscular, medium in length and slightly arched. The chest is wide and deep with a muscular brisket. Ribs are well sprung and rounded, being at their fullest directly behind the shoulders. Shoulders to forelegs are well muscled. Hips and thighs are strong and muscular. Hind legs are well muscled and slightly longer than the forelegs. In a natural stance they are straight, parallel and set apart when viewed from the rear. Distance between hind legs is less than distance between front legs. Angulation is moderate. Stifles have a gentle convex curve when viewed from the side. Stifle angle roughly matches the angle of the pelvis. Hocks are perpendicular to the ground when viewed from the side and back. They are parallel to each other when viewed from the back. A line drawn from the rear-most part of the buttocks, perpendicular to the ground, should fall to the front of the toes. They are straight when viewed from the front. Rear feet are smaller than front feet. Tail should be set low and tapering from base to end. It can be pump handle or straight, with pump handle being preferred. Tail should reach the hocks or be slightly shorter and carried down or horizontal. Some breeders choose to dock the tail. Coat is short, close and of medium density. It should be shiny, showing good health. Color can be brindle of red, gray, fawn or black; either solid or pied with white. Solid white, fawn, red or black; solid color or pied. Temperament Olde English Bulldogges are docile, but capable and protective, fearless and athletic, fierce-looking, determined and courageous, bold and friendly around their family and friends, but fearless adversaries to anyone who threatens their masters or property. This breed likes to chew and should be supplied with plenty of toys and bones. Nylabones and rubber Kong toys are highly recommended. Rawhides, soft rubber and stuffed toys are unsafe, for they are easily shredded or swallowed whole. Olde English Bulldogges are so eager to please that they may overexert themselves in an effort to do whatever is asked of them. An owner who displays a natural authority toward the dog, socialization and obedience training are important. It is best to channel high energy individuals to some type of work and exercise. The objective in training this dog is to achieve pack leader status. It is a natural instinct for a dog to have an order in its pack. When we humans live with dogs , we become their pack. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined and rules are set. Because a dog communicates his displeasure with growling and eventually biting, all other humans MUST be higher up in the order than the dog. The humans must be the ones making the decisions, not the dogs. That is the only way your relationship with your dog can be a complete success. This breed tends to drool and slobber. Height, Weight Height: Males 17 - 20 inches 43 - 51 cm Females 16 - 19 inches 40 - 48 kg Weight: Males 60 - 80 pounds 27 - 36 kg Females 50 - 70 pounds 22 - 31 kg Health Problems May be susceptible to bloat —a painful and often fatal condition that can be brought on by too large a quantity of food consumed at one time. As with all large breeds, hip dysplasia sometimes occurs. Breeders are working hard to keep it out of the Olde English Bulldogge; therefore, no dog with bad hips is bred. Living Conditions Olde English Bulldogges will adapt to almost any lifestyle. They should be protected from the extreme cold and heat, although they are not as susceptible as the AKC Bulldog. Exercise This breed needs to be taken on a daily pack walk to satisfy its migration instinct. When properly conditioned they can be active dogs, however, they are equally happy with moderate exercise. They can stay in relatively good shape with good muscle tone with only light exercise. These dogs are naturally slow, and because of their unique structure, they should not be encouraged to jump or engage in strenuous exercise as young pups. This breed is an average shedder. In he became disenchanted with English Bulldogs due to their breeding and breathing problems. David's goal was to produce a dog with the looks of the 18th century bulldog, with the temperament of today's English Bulldogs, yet healthy, without breathing problems, or all the other aliments today's English Bulldogs are prone to. This new breed can now breathe. Cesarean section births are not necessary. Artificial insemination, due to male ineptness and lack of drive, has been replaced by natural ties. Lifespan is over eleven years. All breeding stock has had hip x-rays. No dog with bad hips is bred. David says he is now achieving his goal of producing a Bulldog with the health and temperament to be able to serve people, instead of forcing people to serve him. David Leavitt is breeding them to more of a working lines type dog, while OEBKC is breeding the dogs as more of a family oriented dog. Less - The Olde English Bulldogge is a muscular, medium-sized dog of great strength, and possesser of fluid, agile movement. He is well balanced and proportioned, while appearing capable of performing without any breathing restrictions in either heat or in cold. Serious Faults: Excessive wrinkle, lack of pigment around eyes, nose or mouth. Olde English Bulldogges are docile, but capable and protective, fearless and athletic, fierce-looking, determined and courageous, bold and friendly around their family and friends, but fearless adversaries to anyone who threatens their masters or property. This breed likes to chew and should be supplied with plenty of toys and bones. This breed tends to drool and slobber. History In a breeding project began using a linebreeding scheme developed by Dr. Fechimer of Ohio State to rapidly achieve a purebred dog. They are, first and foremost, excellent companions, while also possessing the drive, temperament and agility to perform in numerous working venues as well as being service dogs. The revival of a healthy dog with the longevity to live well into its teens is a primary goal.

Some Final Words It is highly doubtful that there is a fast way to do this training. Every dog, no matter the method, takes its own time to learn. For Yorkies, some dogs get the idea in 2 months, while others of their breed take longer to learn. It is really up to the dog and how you treat them during this training. Positive reinforcement is always the fastest way to success. Negative reinforcement may set the training back while your dog adjusts to the treatment. Praising and rewarding your Yorkie will make them want to use the litter box over other options. The key to this process is to make sure you have the right size box for your Yorkie, use the right litter, and place the box in the best spot possible. You do not want it close to their food at any time. When you use consistency, patience, and persistence, your Yorkie should learn to go to the litter box on their own and without prompting from you. Click here to find out. Yes, it is possible to train any small dog to use a litter box. This is an advantageous method to use for your pet. It means that they do not have to wait till you get home or get up to go to the bathroom. They can just saunter on over to the litter box and do their duty without delay. That makes bathroom time more relaxing for your pet. Plus, it helps put your dog at ease as they know they will have no hassle when they go to the bathroom. The key to litter box training your small dog is to make sure the box is the right size. No dog will feel comfortable or will want to use the litter box if it is too small for them. Fortunately, litter boxes come in different sizes since cats come in different sizes. That means you can find a good-sized litter box for your Yorkie or other small dog breeds. Another key will be to let your dog become familiar with the box. Let them sniff and explore to make sure they know it is a safe place for them. Make sure the sides are not too high, or they may not be able to get in or out very easily. This will be up to you as there are several options. The content you use will depend on how much cleaning up you want to do. You can use newspapers if your dog is newspaper trained already. But that would be a short-term option once your dog gets the idea that the litter box is their bathroom. Another option would be pee pads. These are easy to clean up and can help keep the litter box clean and smelling fresh. If you can afford to buy these pee pads, then you can use them all the time. The best option would be actual kitty litter. But you do not want to buy low-quality litter as they do not absorb very well. These low-level options would be like using a newspaper. To make the time more enjoyable for your pet, make sure to get high-quality kitty litter. It should smell nice, absorb well, and make it easier to clean up when your dog is done. Some Final Words When you have a small dog and live in a small place, training your puppy to go in a litter box is a good idea. This allows your pet to go to the bathroom when you are at work or asleep, making it easier for your pet. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. House Training a Yorkie Overview This breed is actually more easy to house train than some other types of breeds. In general, the Yorkie aims to please. However, in order to have quick success, you'll need to be prepared. This involves having the right things in place in order for housebreaking to work. In addition, you'll want to have a clear understanding of all of the guidelines. If you are not following the rules, neither can your Yorkshire Terrier. This section will show you exactly how to house train a Yorkie with step-by-step tips and advice. Overview of What Will be Needed Before we dive into all of the details, it may help you to have a general understanding of what will need to be in place and be done for housebreaking to work. Then, we'll get into specifics. Realistic expectations. Yorkie puppies do not have full control over bladder and bowel muscles. These will develop as the pup grows. So, needs can only be held for so long. In general, a 2-month old can go about 2 hours, a 3-month old for 3 hours, and so on. This does not mean that your 3-month old puppy will pee and then not pee again for another 3 hours. It just means that this is the maximum time that should lapse between taking the pup out. A supervision method. If your Yorkie is let outside alone, there will be zero opportunities to learn. And if you are not keeping a very close eye on your Yorkie while inside, there will be pee and poo just about everywhere. Exact adherence to housebreaking rules. Every element that is listed is here for a reason. If you halfheartedly follow these, if just some of the household members do the steps, or if some steps are done but not others, success will be limited. Proper reaction to accidents. If you follow all of these steps to potty train your Yorkie, there will be very few accidents. However, some will occur, and it'll be important that you react the right way. Indoor Vs Outdoor House Training For the best and fastest results, we highly recommend housebreaking a Yorkie to eliminate outdoors. It is canine instinct to sniff around outside and choose 'just the right spot'. And, going to the bathroom outside is much easier for a dog than trying to hit the mark on pee pads set up indoors. This said, if you do choose the indoor method of setting up pee pads, do follow all of the same advice here. The main difference will be that the 'designated area' will be the pee pads instead of a bathroom area outside. Step 1 Choose the Bathroom Area One area should be chosen as the designated bathroom area. Here are some important elements about this: A huge part of housebreaking a Yorkie is that the pup will be brought to this area by you. This means that you will not just open the door and let your Yorkie outside. Not only is this very dangerous, but it brings the learning opportunities down to zero. The area should be easily accessible in all seasons and in all weather. What seems to work well in the summer may be hard to reach in the winter. We will also cover some things you can do to make heading outside more tolerable. This should be at least 10 feet away from any family areas, such as the barbecue, outdoor eating spot, etc. Not doing this is the downfall of many housebreaking attempts. An owner sees that their Yorkie is rather close by, they turn to tidy up the room.Or, the puppy is playing with his toys, so the owner looks through the mail and makes a call, and the puppy leaves a poo behind the sofa. So, unless you have your eyes directly on your Yorkie with no distractions, one of two things must be happening: 1 Tethered supervision. If you cannot give your Yorkie your undivided attention but can keep him by your side as you are doing other things, keep your Yorkie tethered to you via a harness and a short 6-foot leash. Note that the harness is vital; do not use a collar as this can cause neck injury. In addition, the leash should be short; 6 feet 9 at the most and lightweight those made of climbing rope are incredibly durable but light, and work well. Any time that your Yorkie makes a motion to pee or poo, you will immediately pick him up and bring him to the designated area. And you will carry him if you must a great benefit of having such a tiny toy breed. For any times that you cannot keep your Yorkie right by your side or for any times that you are not home, you'll need to keep your Yorkie in one specific spot. It is not recommended to use a crate. Crates are terribly confining, and can cause both physical and emotional stress. Since a dog will pee or poo regardless of the size of his area when he simply cannot hold his needs any longer, there is no benefit to keeping a dog in such a small cage. It is also not recommend to use a gate to give a Yorkie an entire room. This not only is potentially dangerous unless the room is fully puppy-proofed, but it also opens up a huge problem with destructive chewing many pups being housebroken are also in the teething phase. And, the pup will end up peeing and pooing all over the room. What is recommended is a properly sized indoor canine playpen also referred to as exercise pens. These offer just the right amount of space, and are often used to help cure separation anxiety it offers a secure feeling of a 'den', while ensuring that all of a Yorkie's necessities are right there with him. Let's take a pause to show our recommended supervision and containment items. Below you will see a harness that comes in extra-extra small, a 6-foot leash made of climbing rope which makes it very lightweight, and two great playpen options. If you do not see the images, try a refresh, and on mobile, you may need to turn the screen horizontal to see all 4. How to set up the playpen: Choose a spot in a room that is used by the family; dogs do not like to feel isolated. If you'll be putting this over carpeting, you may want to obtain a small piece of linoleum from your local home supply store to serve as the base. Within the pen will be a quality bed, a few helpful toys for teething or engagement, food if you'll be gone , water, and a spot for pee-pads. Dogs very rarely soil their own belongings, so any housebreaking accidents will most likely end up on the pads. Note, that if your Yorkie tends to move the pee pads or chews at them, using a canine litter box minus the sand, because that rarely works to hold the pads can work well to keep them in place. Below are some recommended items you may want to have inside the playpen. If you do not see the images, try a refresh, and on mobile, you may need to turn your screen horizontal to see all 4. This combination is how dogs learn best, and what will motivate them to keep working at something. Emmy, photo courtesy of Terry DeMeyer Once a dog carries out a particular action enough times, it becomes automatic; at that time, reward will not be a 'must'; however, it does help to reinforce good behavior. The praise. Choose a certain word or phrase that you will always use. This should be something that you do not mind calling out in public. Just saying 'bathroom' is perfectly fine; though, 'pitty-potty' or another like term will work as well. You will say this each time you bring your Yorkie to the designated bathroom area Let's go pitty-potty and immediately after your dog has done the deed Good pitty potty, good dog! The reward. Special treats should be at the ready, in a zipped sandwich bag, and placed near the exit door that leads to the bathroom area. You'll want to be able to grab and pocket these as you are taking your Yorkie out. As you offer praise, palm a treat and allow your Yorkie to mouth it. The type of treat that you choose as reward for housebreaking plays a big role. Here are 3 tips to keep in mind: This should not be a snack that would be given out regardless. It should be be highly tasty, giving a quick burst of flavor that offers immediate signal of a job well done. It should be small the idea is to offer instantaneous satisfaction and not something that a dog needs to sit down to chew on. Since you'll also want to take care that the treats are high-quality no chemical additives, no by-products, no artificial coloring, and made in the US , one great option is one of the flavors of Fruitables; these come in many flavors, so if your Yorkie is already being given these, try a new flavor like Crispy Bacon and Apple or Mango Blueberry. Below are our recommended treats to reward for housebreaking. If you do not see the images, try a refresh. And on mobile, you may need to turn your screen horizontal to see all 4. Step 4 The Actual House Training Rules Now that you have prepared and have things in place to allow your efforts to be successful, it is time to implement the training. Here are 8 rules to follow: 1. Take your Yorkie to the same designated area every single time. Stand in the center of that area, and allow your Yorkie to choose the exact spot within the diameter. Do not hesitate with praise and reward as soon as your Yorkie urinates or has a bowel movement. Say, 'Good, pee-poo! Bring your Yorkie there before each walk. Allowing a dog to pee or poo while out for his daily walks is a missed opportunity for teaching housebreaking. Be patient. Dogs can take anywhere from 1 to 15 minutes to relax bowel muscles. Bring a chair if you must, but do give your Yorkie enough time. Bring your Yorkie outside often enough. This should be: Right after your pup wakes up About 20 minutes after each meal Right after you arrive back home, if you've been out Every so-many hours depending on age 3 hours for a 3-month-old, 4 hours for a 4-month old, etc. Right before bed 6. Your Yorkie should right in your sights, be tethered to you, or in his playpen. As soon as you see a leg lift or a squat, give a loud hand clap to interrupt and bring your pup right out, even if you must carry him. Time meals. Most Yorkshire Terriers do well with 3 meals per day, 2 to 3 snacks, and with the last meal or snack about 2 hours before bedtime. But, if your Yorkie is waking up and having a bowel movement super early, you may want to try adjusting dinnertime. This may lead to a bowel movement later in the evening before bed, as opposed to 4 or 5 AM. React appropriately at night. Most young puppies will bark intermittently throughout the night and it will be important to try and ascertain if the barking at night is for attention or because there is a bathroom need. Most very young puppies do not yet know to alert you to needs, so the majority of vocalization will be to gain your attention. Since you do not want to your puppy to learn that he's allowed to wake you up times, unless you highly suspect that he needs to poo or pee, barking should be ignored and the pup will learn to self-sooth. If you do bring him out, you will want to strongly convey that this is a serious time and not one for play. Keep lights low and do not speak at all unless it is to offer praise for urinating or eliminating in the designated area. Step 5 Reacting to Accidents If you are home and always have your Yorkie directly within your line of sight, tethered to you, or in his playpen, there should be essentially no times of accidents. And, if when you are not home you have your Yorkie in a playpen, since this is a defined space, pee and poo will be kept to one small area, and hopefully on the pee pads. This said, if your Yorkie does pee and poo in the house, you'll want to react the right way and clean it in the right way. Reacting: If you see your Yorkie starting to pee or poo, interrupt him via a loud hand clap and a firm 'No. If you come across a puddle of pee or a little pile of poo but did not witness it happening, reassess what lead to this in the first place. Were you following the supervision and confinement methods? Also, do not bother reprimanding; it will do little good and being scolded or yelled at may only serve to make your Yorkie afraid of you. Cleaning: Both urine and feces leave strong, lingering scents. The enzymes in this waste matter are not washed away with soap and water. So, while you may not smell anything at all, and the spot may look clean once you've taken care of it, it may still be sending out an almost impossible-to-ignore message to your Yorkie that says 'This is the bathroom area'. For this reason, thoroughly clean any accidents with a quality enzyme cleanser. In most cases, this is a matter of the pup not being outside long enough. Unless a Yorkie urgently needs to go, it can take upward of 15 minutes for the pup to relax bladder and bowel muscles and focus on eliminating. It's a common occurrence for owners to rush back inside too early, particularly if the weather is unpleasant. So, if it is cold, be sure that you're dressed warm enough, and have a warm coat or vest for your Yorkie. If it is raining, why not try a pet umbrella? These work very well for tiny toy breeds like the Yorkshire Terrier not such a great idea for larger dogs. Another trick to try is to hold your Yorkie on your lap after coming back inside. Very few dogs will pee on their owner. Wait 10 minutes, and head out again. If your Yorkie eats grass, noses pebbles, chases butterflies, barks at the dog next door, lies down to take a nap, or otherwise does everything other than going to the bathroom, there are two things to take note of: 1 - Each time that you bring your Yorkie out, the goal is to offer the opportunity to pee or poo, not to insist that it happen. So, if a few of the trips are uneventful, that is fine. Remember, you are in charge. My Yorkie does everything outside other than pee. If your Yorkie eats grass , noses pebbles, chases butterflies, barks at the dog next door, lies down to take a nap, or otherwise does everything other than going to the bathroom, there are two things to take note of: 1 - Each time that you bring your Yorkie out, the goal is to offer the opportunity to pee or poo, not to insist that it happen. My Yorkie is out of control, and pees and poops everywhere in the house, even on my bed. And sleeping up on an owner's bed should not be allowed. See Step 2 in regard to setting things up for success by choosing supervision and confinement methods. A Word About Marking This is not actually a matter of house training; marking is a behavioral issue. Some tips to know if this is a marking issue include: The dog is not fixed. Marking is much more common with un-neutered males and un-spayed females. The dog only urinates inside; bowel movements are done outside. The dog does not release their full bladder; typically urine is sprayed. For this, you'll want to follow guidelines to help a Yorkie stop marking in the house. See Also: Spaying and Neutering a Yorkie - The age this is done, what is involved, expected recovery time, pro and cons. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Contact Us. Small dogs can be trained to use a litter box. My personal experience shows that small dogs, once trained, actually benefit from using a litter box. Small dogs have small bladders, and the opportunity to "go whenever" is a big plus! It's also possible to train a dog to use a litter box that previously used papers or went outside. Dogs can also travel using the litterbox in other locations, and are able to use the litterbox during the day, as well as "go outside" at other times. How Do I Start? What do I Need? You'll need several items to get started. Of course, a litter box is required. I suggest a Purina dog litter box -- or get the largest cat litter box available, and cut the top off the hood. Removing the top makes it much easier for the dog to use, and for you to clean. Use very rough sandpaper or a smoothing tool i. Dogs tend to "go" more frequently than cats, and they don't bury their waste in the same way cats do. People use a variety of "filler" for litter pans. Some folks like to use newspapers or absorbent "pee pads". Others prefer commercial dog litter or cat litter, so they can scoop out and dispose of the waste easily. A few folks have voiced concern over clumping litter in the event the dog ingests it. Personally, I've used all types of filler and haven't experienced a problem with any of it. If you use dog or cat litter, buy a large size litter scoop, it will work best! A 3 to 5 gallon size can works perfectly. I also use a standard diaper pail lined with a plastic bag in my dog room. Whenever the "step-on" pail is full, I empty the can into the diaper pail. This saves a lot of time, and my trips to empty waste are infrequent. Best of all, the diaper pail is designed to contain odors! Cleaning Supplies Are Essential! Most importantly, be sure to have plenty of cleaning supplies. Brooms and easy-to-use mops should be nearby. Lots of paper towels especially at the beginning should be kept on hand. I also find a Dust Buster hand vacuum makes it easy to clean up the sand and litter that inevitably gets kicked around. Bleach is a great odor mask, and putting some in a small container make sure it is completely out of the reach of the dogs goes a long way in odor control. Other odor controls such as candles, sprays and plug-ins can also work well. In general, if you just keep the area clean, odor won't be a big problem. Accidents Can and Do Happen.Be prepared for accidents when house and litterbox training. If you do not completely clean urine stains, they will become a reoccurring spot the dog will use. I've had great success with a product called Simple Solution. During the early stages, I purchased it by the gallon jug. I found no other product that worked as well -- even on my near-white carpet! I also purchased a small home carpet cleaning machine, but the "blot and dry" method described in the product directions will work as well it just takes longer. As with most tasks, there's more than one method to accomplish your goal. I have successfully trained dogs to use a litter box by using two methods: The first method is a gradual paper to litter box method. This method works well with dogs who are already solidly paper trained, and who tend to catch on quickly. The second method is a variation of the common "crate training" used to house train dogs. From experience, I think the latter crate style training is best. Some people find crate training to be drastic -- but it does work, and if done properly with lots of attention, care and praise for the dog -- it isn't harmful. If you're starting from scratch, you'll need to work with the dog very closely, and have your cleaning supplies even closer! The best method for housetraining is to design the environment so that it is difficult for the dog to fail. Your dog wants to please you, and you can help him or her succeed! Obviously, a tiled or easy to clean floor area is best. During the first few days, you will need to constantly monitor the dog when it is not in its bathroom area. In this initial period, the dog should have only two location options: either with you, or a direct path to his bathroom area. You can accomplish this by shutting doors, and using simple gating materials such as latex lattice, child gates, or even pieces of cardboard. In any event, make sure that the dog can ONLY go to his designated area when "caught in the act". Make sure there is a direct path between you and his bathroom only no open side rooms at all times. During the first few days the dog should either be with you, or in his area. If you are unable to watch the dog carefully, put the dog in his bathroom or crate area. If you notice actions such as circling or sniffing usually indicating the dog has "to go" , then encourage the dog to go to his area to do his business on papers. Develop a key word or key phrase for this action. It can be anything you want such as: "go pee", "get busy", "use the box", etc. Repeat the word or phrase often at the spot where the dog should do his business. All the World is a Stage.If you catch the dog in the act of going in wrong place, you need to "shock" the dog. A loud "NO! In any event, his direct path, his destination must be his bathroom area. Once there, start praising the dog and using the keyword. Soak a small bit of the dog's urine in a paper towel or newspaper and put in his bathroom area. If your dog smells his feces or urine in his bathroom area, he will be more likely to use that area. Clean any "accident" areas to an extreme degree. A dog's sense of smell is incredible. I "over-treat" using Simple Solution cleaner. After all the smells and stains are gone to my nose and eyes , I reapply the solution. It works! Of course my mother doesn't agree -- she swears by Woolite Carpet Cleaner apparently a special version for "pet accidents". In any case, get a product that works for you! When the dog goes to the right place to use the bathroom, you need to lavish praise and treats on him, all the time repeating the key word. Frankly, it works best if you overact when expressing your pleasure or displeasure. If by chance you see the dog in the act going on the papers or later in the litterbox , you simply have to be beside yourself with joy and happiness! Believe me, the dog will catch on when you are dancing, praising, and kissing his little head when he goes in the right place! Help the Dog Become Accustomed to the Litter box With either method "paper to litter box" or "crate style training" you'll need to get the dog accustomed to the litter box. It should be in his area from the beginning, with a tiny bit of litter in the bottom and some newspaper inside of it. Newspaper should also be put right next to the litter box if paper training. Some folks have reported better results by adding a one of the commercial "potty aid" liquids in the litter box during the early stages of training. At the outset, you'll need to get the dog used to simply getting in and out of the box. This can made into a fun experience for the dog. Simply lift and place the dog in the litter box and use the key phrase like "use the box". Praise him and be happy. He'll likely get out of the box. Repeat the "praise and happy" routine and even give a little treat. If the dog stresses or tires of the game, just stop. Repeat it another time or day. Soon, you'll be able to repeat the keyword, while gently guiding the dog in the box from outside the box. After a few sessions, you should be able to have dog go in the box on his own when the keyword is used. Placement of the box is also important. It must be next to the newspapers, and the open side should minimize "fallout". Dogs have a digging instinct. I haven't met a dog yet that won't try at least once to dig his way under the litter box! Notice the top picture on this page. See how the litter boxes face toward each other and a wall? This minimizes clean up in the event of digging episode! It looks like a tight spot, but honestly, the small dogs don't have any problem getting in and out. A well-arranged litter box will minimize the "fallout" from a digging episode or normal tracking. Progressing from Paper to Litter box If your dog is solidly paper-trained, you can make a gentle progression from paper to litter box. As I said before, the "crate style" training works best, but some people prefer a more gentle approach. I've used both of these methods successfully. The key for the "paper to litter box" method is to make it very gradual. You'll need a supply of cardboard boxes in various sizes. You can sometimes get these from grocery stores, a moving company or U-Haul store. Moving boxes work particularly well because they come in a variety of sizes. Some masking and duct tape is also useful as you change the sides and shapes. The first step is to make a flat "pan" area with the papers. You can cut out the bottom of a cardboard box and line it with papers, or get something like the washing machine pan pictured here and line it with papers. It should be a minimal "box" -- that is, simply enough side to it that it is not completely flat. This should be an easy transition for the dog. If not, start with the papers on a flat piece of cardboard, then move to a slight "pan shape" box. As time progresses, you need to change the cardboard "pan" to a "box" by gradually changing to boxes with higher sides. This needs to be done slowly, over a period of weeks. At some point, you should have a cardboard version of a VERY large cat litter box the "step up" or "step over" edge should never be higher than your real cat litter box. Next, slowly decrease the size of your "cardboard cat litter box" to be just slightly larger than your real cat litter box. At this point, put the cat litter bottom, or tray, into your cardboard box and line the bottom and sides with newspaper. Once the dog is comfortable with using that, you can clip on the plastic hood remember the top should be cut off. The key is for changes to be so gradual the dog doesn't notice. Next, slowly remove all the cardboard so the dog is using papers in the litter box. Finally, you'll need to slowly move from paper to litter. Start with a thin layer of litter in the front of the box, and paper covering almost all of the bottom of the box. Over a period of days, move to less paper and more litter covering more of the box, and slightly deeper with litter. At some point, you'll be putting a tiny piece of newspaper in the back of the box. It looks really weird, but it works! At some point, you'll be able to get rid of the paper altogether. Crate Style Training Crate style training is, in my opinion, the quickest and most effective means of litter box training. The concept is simple. Every creature has a natural aversion to soiling where it eats or sleeps. The crate style method for litter box training is similar, except than eventually, the dog will have greater freedom, even while you're away from the house. Prior to starting crate style training, you should already have the dog comfortable with the litter box, and able to hop in and out of it without fear see earlier section. The dog should also be accustomed to, or know that he is expected to use "his area" for the bathroom. Instead of just a travel kennel or cage, you make an area with a bed, food, water and the litter box. The area must be large enough for the dog to get up, turn around and lay down comfortably -- but there must be no open space for the dog to use the bathroom except the litter box. The cage material should be sturdy, and something the dog cannot jump over or hurt himself trying to escape from. Use bungee type strapping hooks to easily lash and hook your cage. It's also possible to use playpens or commercial cages. If using a pen or cage, be sure to fill any open space with plastic buckets or some other safe material that will prevent the dog from using open space in the pen or cage as a bathroom area. Once you have constructed your "crate area", place the dog in this "crate" at typical bathroom times after eating, after sleeping, etc. The dog should stay in this crate area until he uses the bathroom. Try to be nearby so you can catch the dog in the act and praise him right after he uses the box. Remember to use your key word or phrase! The crate area should also be the where the dog stays when you leave the house. When you are with the dog in the house, this crate area should be open, and part of his "direct path" to his bathroom area. If the dog uses the bedding material as his bathroom spot, change it immediately! Replace the bedding, and sprinkle bits of food on the new bedding. If there are treats frequently found on the bedding, the dog will not use it as a bathroom area! The crate training routine should continue until you see the dog use the litter box on his own. You should occasionally stay in the room with the dog at times you know he needs to go. With the crate area open, encourage him to use the litter box, repeating with the key word frequently, and praise him whenever he uses the box. Soon, you'll be walk with the dog into the room, use the keyword, and the dog will go in the litter box to do his business. Eventually, he will go there on his own. My dogs sleep in my bedroom. In the middle of the night, they will get up, go across the house to the litter box to use the bathroom -- and then come back to bed! When I leave the house, I can leave them in a small area of the house, and they use litter box! At home, they come and go as they please. Bad weather, cold weather -- it doesn't matter! Everyone is happier! What Can I Do? I've never seen the crate style method not work. Properly laid out, it simply doesn't give the dog any other choice. Check to make sure you have the area as small as possible, limiting his choices. If the dog won't go unless crated, then you'll need to spend more time teaching him to use the box -- simply reinforcing the command to get in the box, and staying with him in the room and gently guiding him in the box, repeating the keyword, and using lots of praise. Use treats as a reward for going in the box along with praise! You can eventually wean the dog away from treats and more towards praise. Remember, this process even crate training takes several weeks before the dog will reliably go in the box by itself, and several months of checking and monitoring before the dog will be fully "on his own". With every dog, there's frustration and you'll say "He just doesn't get it. He will never do this". Then, suddenly, he'll catch on! Another common problem is for some dogs to use the litter box to pee, but they'll poop outside this box or even worse, reversed. There are two factors here: First, dogs typically don't do all their business in one spot. Second, some dogs especially hound breeds sometimes need to "walk it out". That's impossible to do in a litter box. I have one dog who would happily do all his business in the box. My other dog finds it very difficult to poop in the box. Our compromise is that ALL peeing is done in the box. No exceptions. They are allowed to poop near the box, but always in "their room", on the tile, and preferably on the paper next to the box. This works well because I pick up and flush the waste with tissue, and dispose of the litter waste in pails and plastic trash bags. Also, I'll mention that I find that since converting to the Purina dog litter and box system, I've discovered not to use as much litter as the Purina folks would lead you to believe. It's actually easier and more effective to use a thin layer of pellets in the bottom of the litter box rather than the 1" to 3" deep they claim. Using that much wastes a lot of litter, plus it makes it more difficult to scoop out the "used" litter. The Big Mistakes From my own experience and in talking to others, there are some common mistakes to avoid: Be consistent. Pick the dog's area or spot and stick with it. Use the same keyword or phrase. Stay with one brand of litter. Keep a routine as much as possible. Any change must be very gradual. Watch the dog constantly during the first two weeks. If the dog is not beside you with you watching him, he should be in his crate area. There must be a direct path between you and the dog's bathroom area at all times. A single "uncaught" act of peeing or pooping in the wrong place will set you back nearly to the beginning. Never hit, beat or "grind" the dog's nose into the "accident". It will be a mistake your dog will never forget, and you will always regret. Keep the litter box clean. Regularly go into the litter box or boxes and dispose of all the waste. At least once a month, empty out the box and wash it out with soap and water. The dog won't want to use a nasty box. Always deal with relapses or accidents. Once the dog begins to use the litter box, you'll provide more freedom. Then, he or she will have an accident -- or simply decide to start using a different spot. NEVER let this go without dealing with situation. Immediately start the routine again, including crating, if necessary. If you don't deal with a relapse, the dog will revert to going anywhere and everywhere in the house. I disagree with the "experts" in one area: Every book and article I've read says that if the dog has an "accident", he can't make an association between the accident and a rebuke after the fact. In my experience, this isn't entirely true. If my dog has "an accident", I let him come to the spot and I quietly stand slightly away. When the dog inevitably starts to sniff the spot, I give him a sharp "NO! It makes a difference. They do make a connection. Understand, it's not a matter of yelling, screaming, or punishing the dog. Use common sense. If your dog acts confused and bewildered at this type of correction -- don't do it. Alternative Boxes There are also additional alternatives for litter boxes. You can use large plastic bins or the top of travel crates if you need a larger space. There are companies that build and sell self-contained litterboxes to which hoses can be hooked up to flush and exit waste water. You can also build your own custom Ultimate Litter Box! Click here to see one including photos, specifications, and parts required. The End Result What can you expect? After several weeks of work, and a month or two of monitoring and frequent checking, you'll be able to let the dogs roam freely and have confidence they will use the box. You'll be able to put them in their room and go work -- knowing they're not "holding it" or worse, walking in it. You'll be able to go dinner or a movie and not have to cut short just because you know he or she has to go. This isn't an excuse to abandon the dogs -- there are few places I'd rather be than with my little buddies! It gives me freedom, and it gives them freedom. Oh, and on those cold, wet days -- we just look out the window and smile